Terms used by Taylors.
In a Womens Gown there are these several parts, as
- The Stayes, which is the body of the Gown before the Sleeves are put too, or covered with the outward stuff: which have these peeces in it, and terms used about it
- The fore Part, or fore Body: which is the Breast part, which hath two peeces in it; as,
- The Right side of the Fore-body.
- The Left side of the Fore-body.
- The two side parts, which are peeces under both Arms on the sides.
- The Back.
- The Shoulder heads, or Shoulder straps; are two peeces that come over the Sholders and are fastned to the Forebody: through which the Arms are put.
- Scoreing, or Strick iines on the Canvice to sow straight.
- Stitching, is sowing all along the lines with close stitches to keep the Whale-Bone each peece from other.
- — is the cleaving of the Whale-Bone to what substance or thickness the workman pleaseth.
- Boning the Stays, is to put the slit Bone into eve∣ry one of the places made for it between each stitched line which makes Stayes or Bodies stiff and strong.
- Cordy Robe skirts to the Staies, are such Stayes as are cut into Labells at the bottom, like long slender skirts.
- Lining the Bodies, or Stayes; is covering the inside of the Stayes with Fustian, Linnen, and such like.
- Binding the Neck, is sowing Galloon, at the edge of the Neck.
- Eylet holes, or Eiglet holes, little round holes whipt-stitched about, through which laces are drawn to hold one side close to the other.
- The Waist, is the depth of the Stayes from the Shoul∣ders to the setting on of the skirts: now it is distinguished by the Back Waist, and the fore-body Waist, which is each side of the Stomacher.
- Side Waisted, is long or deep in the Body.
- Short Waisted, is short in the Body.
- The Stomacher, is that peece as lieth under the lacing or binding on of the Body of the Gown, which said body is somtimes in fashion to be.
- Open before, that is to be laced on the Breast.
- Open behind, laced on the Back, which fashion hath always a Maid or Woman to dress the wearer.
- The Peake, is the bottom or point of the Stomacher, whether before or behind.
- A Busk, it is a strong peece of Wood, or Whale-bone thrust down the middle of the Stomacher, to keep it streight and in compass, that the Breast nor Belly shall not swell too much out. These Buskes are usually made in length according to the necessity of the persons wearing it: if to keep in the fullness of the Breasts, then it extends to the Navel: if to keep the Belly down, then it reacheth to the Honor.
- A Point.
- Covering the Bodies or Stayes, is the laying the out∣side stuff upon it, which is sowed on the same after diverse fashious: as,
- ...Smooth Covered.
- Pleated or Wrinkled in the covering.
- The Wings, are Welts or peeces set over the place on the top of the Shoulders, where the Body and Sleeves are set together: now Wings are of diverse fashi∣ons, some narrow, others broad; some cut in slits, cordy Robe like, others Scalloped.
- The Sleeves, are those parts of the Gown, as covers the Arms: and in these there is as much variety of fashi∣on, as days in the Year: I shall only give the terms of the most remarkable.
- The close, or narrow Sleeve; which reacheth from the Shoulder to the Wrist of the Arm, and is not much wider then for the Arm: which were of old turn∣ed up at the Hand, and faced or lined with some other sort of stuff.
- The Wide, or full Sleeve; is such as are full and long, and stand swelling out: such are tied about the El∣bow close to the Arm with a Ribbon.
- The open Sleeve, such are open the fore part of the Arm, that their bravery under may be seen whether it be a mock or cheat Waist-coat with Imbrauthery or the like; else their fine L••••nens and Laces.
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