A new voyage to the Levant containing an account of the most remarkable curiosities in Germany, France, Italy, Malta, and Turkey : with historical observations relating to the present and ancient state of those countries / by the Sieur du Mont ; done into English, and adorn'd with figures.

LETTER XXVII.

SIR,

AT last I have obtain'd my Liberty, and have bidden a joyful Farewel to that nasty Laza∣retto, where I was forc'd to do so tedious a Pe∣nance for my Sins. And since I have reason to believe that all my Transgressions are blotted out by so severe a Mortification, I'm e'en resolv'd to venture upon a New Score: There is not a Town in the World so full of Invitations as this: I see every Day such charming and enflaming Objects at the Opera, Ridotti, and whither so ever I go, that a less sensible Heart than mine cou'd not long resist the powerful Temptation. There is a greater Number of lovely Women here than in any other Place of Europe, and their Charms are more allu∣ring. Three Divinities seem to contend which of 'em shou'd contribute most to the Embellishment of a City where they have fix'd the Seats of their several Empires. Venus makes it the Scene of all

the soft Delights of Beauty and Love; Apollo dis∣plays the ravishing Variety of his belov'd Harmo∣ny; and Momus charms both the Eye and Ear with splendid Masks and ingenious and witty Co∣medies. Venice is a Cluster of inchanted Islands, where Joy and Pleasure have establishd their peace∣ful Sway, without the least Disturbance from tu∣multuary or gloomy Passions. 'Tis all over charm∣ing; every Object inspires Love, and fills the Mind with a resistless and surprizing Delight. But I must not forget that I write to one who is too inquisi∣tive to be satisfy'd with general Hints; and there∣fore I shall proceed to give you a particular Account of this admirable City. I intended to have begun my Letter with the Story of a pleasant Accident that happen'd to one of my Friends at our coming out of the Lazaretto, where he perform'd his Qua∣rantain with me; but tho' I am not often guilty of a scrupulous Niceness in observing the Rules of an exact Method, I'm loath on this Occasion to invert the Order I intend to follow in the Descri∣ption of the City; and therefore I shall defer the Relation of my Friend's Adventure, till I come to speak of the Venetian Curtezans.

The Observation I made concerning Constantino∣ple and Cairo, may with equal Justice be apply'd to Venice, and in the general to all great and po∣pulous Cities; that there are very different Opini∣ons concerning their Extent, and the Number of their Inhabitants. Nor is this Controversie so ea∣sily decided as some Persons imagine: For when did ever a Traveller undertake to count the Streets of a great City? Or what more can the most in∣quisitive Stranger do than to measure the Dimen∣sions of a Publick Place, or of a Temple? Judge then whether any one can make a certain Computati∣on of the Number of the Houses, or of the Per∣sons that inhabit 'em. And I may venture to

add, that none but a Soveraign is able to manage such a Design; and that the exactest Calculations that can be made by Private Persons, are mere uncertain Conjectures, that can never be true but by a lucky Hit, on which there can be no depen∣dance. The same may be said of the Bigness of a City, which ought rather to be computed from the Figure, than from the Extent of its Circumfe∣rence: And 'tis so difficult a Task to find and de∣scribe the true Figure of a Town, that the Inha∣bitants themselves are ignorant of it. How many different Judgments are made of the comparative Bigness of London and Paris? Yet every Man thinks his own Opinion true; and the same Re∣mark may be apply'd to all other large Cities. I will not undertake then to determine so intricate a Controversie, but shall content my self with ac∣quainting you, that Venice, as to its Extent, may, in my Opinion, be compar'd to Rome, that the Streets are Narrow, the Ground extremely well Husbanded, and the Houses full of People to the very Top. It has neither Gates, Walls, nor Cit∣tadel, and yet cannot be justly said to be Weak. 'Tis esteem'd impregnable by many Authors, and that Opinion is so generally receiv'd, that you shall hardly hear any Man give an Account of Venice without that Encomium at the End of it. The Venetians themselves tell the Story so often, that at last they imagine it to be a certain Truth, and wou'd fain persuade others to be of the same Opinion. But tho' they alledge some Reasons in Confirmation of that Assertion, they must not expect to make us swallow 'em by an implicit Faith. At least I can assure you, their Arguments have made no great Impression upon me; for I cou'd never boast so strong a Faith as to give Credit to an obvious Absurdity. However, Ex∣perience has taught me so much Wisdom, that I

shall hardly venture to own my Opinion in this Case during my abode here. Let 'em magnifie their City beyond all the Forts in the World, and defie the Ambition of the most potent Sove∣reigns in Europe; their Arrogance shall never ex∣tort one indiscreet Word from me so long as I remain within the reach of the Inquisition: But as soon as I can set my Foot beyond the Limits of their Dominions, I shall e'en make bold to talk as freely to any Man of the boasted Strength of their City, as I now intend to write to you.

You may remember I acknowledg'd that Venice is impregnable on the Side next the Sea, and gave you an Account of the Reasons which inclin'd me to be of that Opinion. But I'm fully persuaded that 'tis not impossible to attack it with Suc∣cess on the other side, unless it be defended by an Army strong enough to baffle all the Attempts of the Besiegers, in which Case, I must confess, it may be said to be impregnable; but upon the same Supposition any Town in the World may plead a Right to that Title: Whereas a Place that may be properly call'd impregnable, must be strong e∣nough to endure a Siege two or three Years with∣out Relief; that is, it must be able to resist any Enemy but Famine, which is a necessary Conse∣quence of a long and close Siege. I confess there are very few such Places in the World; yet I have seen one, I mean Malta, and 'tis probable there are some other Forts which merit the same Character. As for those Places that may be subdu'd by Force, tho' not without extreme Difficulty, they may and ought to be call'd Strong, but cannot just∣ly be said to be Impregnable. Yet the last of these Epithets is very frequently abus'd and misapply'd; for 'tis as usual to honour a Place with that Title, as 'tis rare to find one that deserves it.

If this be the true meaning of the controvert∣ed Term, and if none but such Places as these can be properly said to be impregnable, as 'tis plain they cannot; I know no reason that shou'd hin∣der me from excluding Venice out of that Number. It seems to be no very difficult Undertaking to seize on the Lido and Malamoca, two inhabited Islands, and by securing those Posts, to intercept the Communication of the City with the Sea, and to cut off all Relief that might be expected that way. An Army might also soon take Pos∣session of several little uninhabited Lagunes about Venice, from whence the City might be easily bat∣ter'd and bombarded; and God knows what Ha∣vock the Bombs wou'd make in so compact a Ci∣ty as this. And besides, the Multitude of the In∣habitants wou'd quickly expose 'em to all the De∣solations that are usually caus'd by Famine. I confess the Arsenal is so well furnish'd that all the Burghers might be arm'd in Four and twenty Hours; but what use cou'd they make of their Arms in a Town which in case of a Siege wou'd instantly be turn'd to a Prison: For there is no cover'd Way thro' which they cou'd sally out upon their Enemies; and tho' they cou'd contrive one, the Citizens of Venice wou'd make but a very feeble resistance. I have so mean an Opinion of their Military accomplishments, that I dare boldly af∣firm that Ten thousand well-discipln'd Soldiers wou'd do more execution than a Hundred thou∣sand of 'em. Was not Paris starv'd by 30000 Men, tho' at the same time it was defended by 150000 Citizens, who might have sally'd out when they pleas'd? What then wou'd become of Venice in such a Case, where the besieg'd must be coop'd up in their Houses, and cou'd never make a Sally to di∣sturb or annoy their Enemies? Perhaps I shall be laugh'd at for maintaining that this wonderful

Place that dispises and defies the most potent and triumphant Enemies, might be enter'd and set on Fire by a sufficient Number of Men with Tor∣ches in their Hands, without the Trouble or Charge of Bombardment. But I wou'd willingly be inform'd what cou'd hinder 100000 Men from making and executing such an Attempt. There are no Walls to stop or retard their Progress; the City is open in Fourscore several Places, all the Houses that surround it are pierc'd with Doors and Shops, and many of 'em are built of Wood. I confess such an Expedition wou'd require a vast Number of Boats; but when I speak of 100000 Men, I do not mean that they shou'd all be em∣ploy'd in the Attempt: The Fifth part of 'em wou'd serve to carry on the Attack; and the Be∣siegers might find a sufficient Number of Boats in the adjacent Harbours, without giving themselves the trouble of making new ones.

My Opinion in this Case is so singular, and so directly opposite to the Notions that are enter∣tain'd by the generality of Mankind, that you will doubtless scruple to give Credit to my single Te∣stimony, especially since the Arguments I bring to confirm it depend on certain Circumstances with which you never had occasion to be acquainted. And you will be apt to tell me, that the Veneti∣ans wou'd certainly have taken care to fortifie their Capital City, if its Natural Strength were not incapable of any Artificial Improvements. In answer to the first part of this Difficulty, I shall only repeat what I have already told you, that 'twas never my Custom to make my Judgment a Slave to Authority, or to regulate my own, by the Opinions of others. I'm persuaded that a blind Submission to Vulgar Notions, is one of the most fertil Sources of Error, and that there is nothing

so variable and uncertain, as the Sentiments of Men in different Places and Ages.

I confess the other part of the Objection con∣tains a greater and more puzzling Difficulty. But tho' the Conduct of the Venetian Senate in this Case seems at first View to depend upon some secret Reasons of State, the Mystery lies not so deep but that it may be easily unriddl'd by a mo∣derate Degree of Application. You know that the Government of Venice is purely Aristocratical, and that the Revolutions which happen in such Con∣stitutions, are usually occasion'd by suffering one of the Members of the Body in which the Go∣vernment is lodg'd, to over-top the rest: For an Ambitious Person may be easily tempted by so inviting an Opportunity, to establish the Gran∣deur of his Family by oppressing his Fellow-Ci∣tizens, and to erect a Monarchy upon the Ruines of the Republick. History and Experience furnish us with so many Instances of such Revolutions, and these Examples are so universally known, that 'twou'd be needless either to cite 'em, or to alledge any other Arguments to prove so well-attested a Truth. Now the Senate of Venice, whose Maxims are, without Controversie, grounded on the most re∣fin'd Politicks, making a wise use of the Misfor∣tunes of other States, and being well acquainted with the weak part of their own, have endea∣vour'd to prevent the Inconveniences that might arise from that necessary Flaw in their Consti∣tution, by the most prudent Laws and Proviso's that ever were invented; and their Care for the Preservation of the State has been attended with such excellent Success, that the Republic conti∣nues still to subsist on the same Foundations on which 'twas first establish'd. To give you a Spe∣cimen of the admirable Politicks of that wise Bo∣dy, I shall briefly take notice of some of those

Laws and Customs that are interwoven with the Constitution of their Government. The Doge is entrusted with so small a Share in the Management of the State, that he may be justly call'd a meer Shadow of Grandeur. There are Inquisitors ap∣pointed to have an Eye upon his Actions, who may call him to an Account when they please. He is not allow'd the Liberty of public and familiar Con∣versation, nor suffer'd to appear in the City but on certain Days of Ceremony. The Nobles are forbidden to entertain any correspondence with Foreign Princes, or their Ministers. They are not permitted to wear Arms, to use any Ornaments of Gold or Silver, to keep a numerous Train of Ser∣vants, or to affect any Marks of Grandeur. The Custom of walking in the Broglio was introduc'd to prevent the dangerous Consequences of pri∣vate Cabals. The Inquisitors of State were esta∣blish'd for the Security of the Government; and 'tis the same Consideration that moves 'em to entertain above a Thousand Spies. And to con∣clude, that illustrious Body in which the Go∣vernment is lodg'd, the celebrated Senate of Venice, which knows so well how to maintain its Ho∣nour on other Occasions, keeps neither Guards a∣bout the Place of its meeting, nor a Garrison in the Town; wisely considering, that if ever an In∣surrection shou'd happen, those Mercenary Soldiers, however appointed for the Defence and Preser∣vation of the State, wou'd be made the Instru∣ments of its Ruine.

I will not trouble you with a particular Ac∣count of all the Laws and Regulations that were instituted for the same end, and are still observ'd in this place. But from what has been said on this Subject, you may easily perceive that those prudent Senatours make it their principal Care to prevent Intestine Disorders, and to render the

Nobles incapable of invading the Public Li∣berty.

Now if the Senate shou'd order a Citadel or Fort to be built at Venice, they might with Ju∣stice be accus'd of contriving the Instruments of their own Ruine, and of undermining that No∣ble Fabric, which they have taken so great Care to secure. But they are too wise to be guilty of so fatal a Blunder; and 'tis better to be in some measure expos'd to the Insults of Foreign Inva∣ders, than to lie at the Mercy of Domestic Ene∣mies. Besides they have no Reason to be afraid of their Neighbours; for 'tis the Interest of all the Princes and States of Italy, to preserve the Repub∣lic, that it may continue to be the Bulwark of Christendom on that side, and to counter-balance the Power of the House of Austria. And as for the Turks, they are at too great a Distance to un∣dertake an Expedition against the City.

Thus you see that there are several weighty Considerations that deter the Senate from forti∣fying their Capital City: and there are no less pressing Reasons that oblige 'em to encourage the Vulgar Opinion of its pretended Impregna∣bility.

If I shou'd send you a particular Description of this City, I cou'd only entertain you with a Repetition of what you have read perhaps in a hun∣dred Authors. And therefore I shall content my self with communicating some of my Remarks to you, in a loose and familiar manner.

Some pretend that Venice is built on seventy two Islands or Lagunes, which are separated by such narrow Chanels that they seem to form one little Continent: and there are others who re∣ject this Opinion. I will not undertake to de∣cide the Controversie, but only tell you what I have seen, and leave the whole Matter to your

Judgment. 'Tis certain that Venice is founded on a Spot of Ground that rises at least to the Surface of the Water; for the Earth appears in the Streets, Keys, public Places, and Houses. 'Tis true they are forc'd to make use of Piles, because the Ground is not firm enough to support the Weight of a large Palace without sinking: but that ought not to make us doubt the Truth of a thing that is con∣firm'd by the Testimony of our own Eyes; for the same way of Building is generally us'd in all Moorish or Fenny Places, and particularly in Hol∣land. 'Tis no less certain that this Spot of Ground is at present a Mass of Islands, so that it remains only to consider whether the Canals that sepa∣rate these little Islands be Natural or Artificial. This Question is not easily to be determin'd, for one may alledge very plausible Arguments either for the Affirmative or Negative part. 'Tis pro∣bable the Venetians might dig these Chanels, for the more convenient Carriage of Goods, which by this means are brought to their Doors, and for the Embellishment of the City, which is the on∣ly Town in the World that can boast of such a Situation. But there are so many, and so consi∣derable Reasons, which favour the contrary Opi∣nion, that I'm almost entirely convinc'd of the Truth of it. In the first place, 'Tis plain that the Venetians have taken all possible Care to husband the Ground on which the City is founded. The Streets are so narrow, that in most of 'em three Men cannot walk a-breast, and in some, one Man can hardly pass by another. And the Foundati∣ons of the Houses on one side are laid in the Water, without any Key or Passage betwixt 'em and the Canals. We cannot then suppose, with the least Shadow of Probability, that the Prospect of any Conveniency cou'd oblige 'em to waste so considerable a quantity of that Ground which

they manage so thriftily, that the City is every∣where full of Boundaries, to restrain the Proprietors of the Houses from breaking in upon the Streets. And besides, what Reason can there be alledg'd for their leaving so many large Spots of Ground entire; for tho' you are inform'd that a Man may go in a Boat to any House in the City, you must not take these Words in a strict and literal Sense, but only as a figurative Expres∣sion, to signifie that there are a great Number of such Houses in Venice. I can assure you that there is not a Canal within five hundred Paces round of the House where I lodge; and that there are twenty such Places in the City. I shall only add that the Canals are crooked, and ge∣nerally unequal both in Length and Breadth; which, in my Opinion, may serve to convince any considering Person, that they are not Arti∣ficial.

All the Streets in the City, without Exception, are narrow and crooked; but to make amends for these Disadvantages, they are so clean that one may walk a Year in 'em without meeting with any Dirt: and besides they are pav'd with large square Stones, which always after a Shower grow as white as Marble. In several parts of the City there are little empty places call'd Campi or Fields; which were probably left for the Conveniency of intrenching, if an Enemy shou'd enter the Town; for they are not at all Ornamental. The only considerable Place or Field in Venice, is that of S. Mark, which certainly claims all our Admirati∣on. 'Tis two hundred and fifty Paces long, and eighty broad. The Church of S. Mark faces one of the Ends of it, and that of S. Geminian the other. 'Tis border'd on each side with those state∣ly Piles of Building call'd the Old and New Pro∣••••••aties, which make it, without Controversie, the

most Magnificent Place in the World. The Front of each Procuraty is supported by a large Portico, ten Paces broad; and all along there are double Piazza's, one of which entering into the Building serves for Shops, which are lett by the Signiory to those who sell Perfumes, Li∣monade, and Coffee. The Procurators of S. Mark lodge in these Palaces, which for that Reason are call'd the Procuraties: but when any Foreign Prince comes to take a View of 'em, or on some other Occasions of Public Rejoicing, the Partitions are taken down, so that one may walk from one End to the other, and all the several Apartments are united into one spacious House. That on the Right-hand, as you go to S. Mark's Church, is call'd the New, and that on the Left the Old Procuraty. The first has two principal Fronts, one of which looks into the Place of S. Mark, and the other into the Broglio, over-against the Palace of St. Mark, which is an Ancient and Magnifi∣cent Structure, where all the Councils meet; such as the Grand Council, the Council of the Finances call'd the Ceca, the Marine Council, &c. The Ceca is a distinct Apartment in the Palace of S. Mark; and tho' 'tis built after the same Manner, and with the same Stones, the large Grates and dou∣ble Doors of Iron, with which 'tis inclos'd, make it resemble a Prison rather than a Palace: And besides the Smoak that arises from the Furna∣ces has so penetrated the Stone-Walls, that they are black even within the Chambers. Here the Mo∣ney is coin'd, and the Public Treasure kept in great Iron Chests, secur'd with three Locks, the Keys of which are committed to the Custody of three Procurators, who, under Pain of Death, dare not make the least Attempt to open 'em till they are all met together. The Council sits twice a Week,

which are the only Days for all sorts of Pay∣ments.

The little Arsenal of the Nobles, whose Arms are always kept ready charg'd, is in the same Palace of S. Mark; and the Doge's Apartment is in the Right-Wing, from whence there is a Pas∣sage to the Church, whither he goes sometimes incognito to hear Mass; but usually he per∣forms his Devotions at a private Chapel in his own Apartment.

S. Mark's Church is a large Structure, square on the Out-side, cover'd with four Leaden Domes, of which the largest is in the Middle, without any Spires or Steeples. The Top is surrounded with Stone Balisters for the Conveniency of walk∣ing. You enter the Church thro' a Portico com∣pos'd of five Arches, the highest of which is in the Middle. There you may take a View of those Large and Stately Gates of Brass, which the Venetians brought from Santa Sophia at Constantinople, when they robb'd that City of so many valuable Curiosities to enrich their own. Among the rest, I cannot forbear taking Notice of the four Brazen Horses that are plac'd upon the same Portico. 'Tis Pity they are not more carefully preserv'd; for they are so finely shap'd, that Nature her self cou'd not mend those Artificial Animals. 'Tis true, they have endeavour'd to piece 'em, but all their Care and Skill will never be able to restore 'em to their primitive Beauty.

The Figure of the Church within resembles a Cross, the Quire representing the upper part. 'Tis vaulted throughout, and enrich'd with very fine Mosaic-Work, like that of Santa Sophia, but not near so lasting: for it decays so fast, that they are forc'd to keep some Workmen on purpose to re∣pair it; whereas the other remains entire notwith∣standing its great Antiquity. And besides there is

another Difference betwixt the Mosaic-Work at Ve∣nice, and that at Santa Sophia; for the latter is smooth and plain, whereas the former is full of Fi∣gures. These are the only Pieces of this Nature I have had occasion to see in my Travels, ex∣cept one at Scio. The Floor of the Church is adorn'd with another sort of Mosaic no less preci∣ous than the former, consisting of several small Pieces of Porphyrie, Jasper, and Serpentine or speckl'd Marble, not unlike to the Tables and Ca∣binets of Ebony, that are inlaid with Shells and Naker.

The Arms of all the Doges that have hitherto govern'd the Republic are plac'd round the Walls. They are generally magnificent, and even some of 'em are of Silver curiously wrought. The only Fault I can find in this Church is its Obscurity, which hides the greatest part of its Beauties: For in all other respects 'tis enrich'd with the finest Orna∣ments, such as Altars, Pictures, and Vessels of Gold and Silver. 'Twou'd be needless to present you with a Catalogue of the rare Curiosities that are to be seen either in the Church or Treasury, since you will find 'em all particularly describ'd in a Treatise written by Monsieur de S. Didier.

'Tis Pity the Venetians shou'd have lost the Body of their good Patron, S. Mark, and that their Loss shou'd be attended with this mortifying Circum∣stance, that they know neither the Time nor Oc∣casion of it. 'Tis true the common People believe that he retir'd into a Pillar, which they shew'd me, and that he thrust his Hand out of that Co∣lumn when he gave the Ring to the Doge; but most of 'em scruple not to confess that they know not where he is, nor whither he went.

They made me also take Notice of a Stone, which they pretend is the same that yielded Water to the Israelites, when they were tormented with

Thirst in the Wilderness. If this be true, we must allow that Rock a Power to multiply its Kind; for 'tis still to be seen in the Desarts of Arabia, be∣tween Sues and Tor, as I have heard several credible Persons affirm, as well Christians, as Turks and Moors, who assure me that it stands by it self in the midst of a Sandy Desart; and that one may both easily perceive the Holes that gave a Passage to the Water, and discern the very Track or Print that was made by the Stream.

The next place in Venice that claims a particular Observation, is the Arsenal, which is certainly the best furnish'd Magazine in the World. For tho' it contains no less than two Miles in Compass, 'tis fill'd and even crowded with Cannons, Bombs, Granadoes, Muskets, Sabres, Gun-powder, Ropes, Sails, Anchors, &c. To give you an Estimate of the prodigious Quantity of Ammunition that is hoarded up in this Place, 'twill be sufficient to tell you, that in case of Necessity, 'tis sufficient to arm and equip fifteen Galleys, four Galeasses, as many Ships, and a hundred thousand Men. The Arsenal is govern'd by three Nobles, and under them by the Pilot of the Republic, whom they call the Admiral, who is entrusted with the Care and Inspection both of the Stores, and of two or three hundred Men, that are constantly kept at Work. He never goes to Sea but once a Year, to steer the Bucentaur on Ascension-Day, when the Duke accompany'd by all the Nobles, performs the Ceremony of Wedding the Sea. They set so high a Value upon this Vessel, that the Pilot is oblig'd under Pain of Death to bring it back in Safety; which makes him so cautious in observing the Weather, that when he perceives any Clouds, or the least Appearance of a Wind on the Day ap∣pointed for the Solemnity, he procures it to be de∣lay'd till the next Sunday.

'Tis the Opinion of one, That Venice contains Four hundred Palaces, fit to receive and entertain a King. This is certainly a very bold Assertion; and yet I dare not positively contradict it: for the Pa∣laces are so Numerous and Magnificent, that I may venture, without a Hyperbole, to affirm that they are sufficient to adorn Ten Cities. On the great Canal alone there are at least Two hundred, which seem to out-rival one another, whether you consider the Boldness of the Design, or the Fine∣ness of the Structure; and confound the amaz'd Spectatour with so vast a Medley of different Beau∣ties, that he knows not which to prefer, or where to point at the Principal Object of his Admiration. If your Curiosity shou'd lead you out of the City, to take a View of the neigh∣bouring Continent, especially towards Padua, you wou'd be tempted to fansie your self among the Habitations of the Gods; for every Palace resem∣bles a Magnificent Temple, adorn'd with all the most exquisite Beauties of Architecture. It must be ac∣knowledg'd that the Italians, and particularly the Venetians, are the best Architects in the World; and that the finest Houses in France are not comparable to these Palaces on the Outside.

I shall take this Occasion to give you a gene∣ral Idea of their Manner of Building. The Height of the Edifice is exactly proportion'd to its Big∣ness, according to the nicest Rules of Architecture. The Houses are cover'd with fine Platforms, where a Man may enjoy the Pleasure of walking with∣out going out of his own House; and when he grows weary may either sit down on the Benches, or rest on the Balisters that surround the Platform. The Fronts of the Houses are adorn'd with Portico's, Co∣lumns, Balconies at the Windows, Frizes, Festoons, Niches, and Statues. These Ornaments are accom∣pany'd with Courts, Anti-Courts, delicious Gardens,

Fountains, Grotto's, and all the other Embellish∣ments that a luxurious Fancy can contrive. I can assure you that this is a true and faithful Re∣presentation of these glorious Edifices; and I leave you to judge whether they may not justly be call'd Palaces, and whether any thing cou'd give a higher Idea of the Grandeur of the Venetian No∣bles. The main Reason, in my Opinion, that makes 'em employ so great a part of their Treasure in Building, is because they are not permitted to display their Magnificence any other way. For since they are not suffer'd to consume their Mo∣ney in splendid Equipages, and rich Habits, 'tis plain they must either build, or find some other way to bestow their superfluous Cash. And, 'tis probably the same Restraint that tempts 'em to throw away such vast quantities of Money on Courtezans and at Play. You wou'd hardly be∣lieve me, if I shou'd tell you what prodigious Summs are consum'd every Year at Bassette, especially du∣ring the Carnaval; when the Ridotti or Gaming-Houses are open. None are admitted into these Houses without Masks; that all sorts of People may enjoy an equal Liberty, and that there may be no Occasion for Disputes, nor any Marks of Distinction in a place where every one is welcome for his Money, and where there is always a con∣fus'd Medley of Noblemen, Citizens, Ladies, and Courtezans: Yet this Order is not observ'd with the utmost Rigour; for one that has a false Nose, or counterfeit Whiskers is held to be sufficiently Mask'd. The Nobles keep the Bank, and relieve one another by turns from Morning till Night. They bear good or bad Fortune without discover∣ing the least Alteration either in their Counte∣nance or Humour: and seem as little concern'd when they lose a Thousand Sequins by one Card, as when they gain One by another. I have

had Occasion two or three times to see the Bank broke, but cou'd never perceive the least Sign of Disturbance in the unfortunate Gamester. And which is no less surprizing, I have seen other No∣blemen continue to play with the Loser, upon his bare Word, to the Value of Ten thousand Ducats, which were always punctually paid next Morning. 'Tis true, the Loss does not fall wholly upon one Person, for there are sometimes a Hundred of 'em join'd together; and this is perhaps the main Rea∣son that makes 'em bear their Misfortunes so pa∣tiently. Besides the Bank is seldom a Loser at the last; and the Ridotti are sometimes so full of Money, that they know not where to keep it. All the Cash is entrusted to the Care of some Nobleman, who is usually one of the poorer Sort; and yet 'tis never observ'd that he retains so much as one Peny.

You may expect, in my next, an Answer to your Questions concerning the Nobility.

I am,

SIR,

Your &c

Venice, Jan. 1692.