LETTER XXVI.

OUR present Confinement puts me in mind of the eager Impatience of a Lover who sees, but dares not approach his Mistress. For here we must lie in the Lazaretto, and content our selves with making Court to the Signora Venetia Bella, without the least hope of enjoying her Beauties, till we have purchas'd the Charming Delight at the rate of Forty Days sighing and whining. We are de∣tain'd here by an Order from the Tribunal of Health, least we shou'd spread some Infectious Distemper; and I among the rest am forc'd to bear this un∣easie Restraint, tho' I'm at present in as perfect Health as any of these Cautious Gentlemen. But perhaps you'll be more inquisitive to know how we came hither, than how we spend our Time here; and therefore I shall proceed to give you a short Account of our Voyage.

I left Smyrna some Days after the writing of my last Letter, not without a very sensible Affli∣ction at my taking leave of Monsieur and Madam Page  340 de Hochepied, from whom I had receiv'd so ma∣ny Favours and Civilities during my abode in their House.

Our Voyage was disturb'd by an almost perpetu∣al Storm, which redoubling its Fury from Day to Day, made us conclude more than once that we shou'd certainly be bury'd in the Waves. Poor Signior Stephano, whom I mention'd in my last, fell sick two Days after he embark'd, and being unable to bear the tempestuous Working of the Sea, dy'd Eight Days after. The Superstition of our Ship's Crew furnish'd us with a very plea∣sant Scene; for they unanimously concluded him to be a Sorcerer, because they had seen him draw some Mathematical Figures during the first two Days of our Voyage, and were absolutely confirm'd in that Opinion by a curious Mechanical Experi∣ment he happen'd to try in their presence, by lifting up a very considerable Weight with one Hand, which those thick-skull'd Animals thought impossible to be perform'd without the Assistance of Magic. This ridiculous Conceit made so strong an Impression upon upon 'em, that they slighted all the Arguments and Asseverations I cou'd use to undeceive 'em, and not only persist in their Belief of Signior Stephano's Skill in the Diabolioal Art, but impute all the bad Weather to his Conjurations▪ The Captain pretends to be of the same Opinion, tho' I know not how to reconcile his Complai∣sance to the young Widow to the Sentiments he seems to have of her Husband; For he obliges her to perform her Quarantain on Board his Ship, and resolves to make her his Wife.

The Storm forc'd us to stand in to a Canal between two little Islands, call'd Millo and Argen∣tiere. The first is Forty Miles in Compass, and the whole Country is Mountainous, except a plea∣sant and fertil Plain, six or seven Miles long, in Page  341 the midst of which stands the City of Millo, con∣taining about Twenty narrow Streets. The In∣habitants are generally Greeks; but there are also 3 or 400 Souls of the Latin Church, who have their Bishop and Cathedral. The Venetians main∣tain a Podestat in the Island to gather the Tribute; but there is no Garrison kept in it, tho' it receives frequent Visits from the Turks; so that the first Corsair who comes with a numerous Company, is King of the Island so long as he pleases to reside it it. Yet the Pyrates never commit any disor∣ders in this place, by reason of the Assistance they receive from the Merchants that live here, who furnish 'em with Commodities to be paid out of the next Prize that falls into their Hands. There is a French Ordinary in the Town, where one may find pretty good Entertainment: And I remember I saw a Man there of so free and open a Dispo∣sition, that I shou'd have thought him a Rarity in that Country, if I had not been told that all these Islanders are generally of that Humour. He took occasion to Discourse of a Maid who was his Wife's Daughter, and declar'd that he wou'd willingly dispose of her to a Husband. One who was present lik'd the Proposal, and told him that he wou'd ease him of the Burden if he pleas'd to bestow her upon him. With all my Heart, reply'd the Father: Then, said the other, I desire to know what you are willing to give with her. What d'ye •ean, reply'd the old Gentleman, Give with her, ••oth' a; Why, I wont give her self for nothing. You most take me for a silly Coxcomb indeed, if you think I'll give you a pretty lively Girl, and hire you to take her? No, I beg your pardon, 'tis you must give the Money: And if I can find none that will take my Daughter on these Terms, I'll e'en keep her, and make use of her my self.

Page  342 The Women are so accustom'd to the Converse of the Pyrates, that they are generally very liberal of their Favours, but not quite so frank as their Neighbours of Argentiere, which is another little Island, about Twenty Miles in Compass, contain∣ing only a little Town and a Village, both inha∣bited by about Five hundred Women; for there is not a Man in the Island, except Seven or Eight Papa's, who perform Divine Service. These Wo∣men have no Trade to maintain 'em, but live purely on the Work of Nature; so that all the Merchants and Corsairs, who come to the Island, chuse a Female-Companion, either fair or brown, according to every Man's particular Fancy. The Children are left to the Disposal of the Women; the Girls grow up and work to maintain their Mo∣thers; but assoon as the Boys are Twelve Years old, they are put on Board the first Vessel that touches at the Island.

From thence we continu'd our Voyage to Zant, a considerable Island belonging to the Venetians. It contains a hundred Miles in Compass, and produ∣ces great Store of delicious Wines, both Muscadin and other Sorts. But since Italy is sufficiently stock'd with these Commodities, the Inhabitants of this Island dry most of their Grapes, and send 'em to England and Holland. Both the City and Harbour are commanded by a very fine Ca∣stle, where the Proveditore, who is always cho∣sen out of the Principal Nobility, resides. The Inhabitants are Rich, and there are several Gen∣tlemen among 'em. This is the first place as you come from the Archipelago, where you meet with People cloath'd after the manner of the Franks; yet many of 'em wear a Turkish Vest above their other Cloaths. The Venetians have built several Churches for the Use of those who profess the Romish Faith; and do what they can to establish Page  343 that Religion, in Opposition to that of the Greeks, which is the Religion of the Natives. The City is long and narrow; which is all the Account I can give you of it, for those who come from the Levant are not suffer'd to go a-shore till they have perform'd their Quarantain. The Prince of Brunswick, who serves in the Army of the Re∣publick, pass'd the whole last Winter in this place; and gain'd the Love of the Inhabitants to such a Degree, that there is not a Man of 'em who wou'd not sacrifice himself for his Sake. I heard a Story of that Prince, which I'm confident will give you some Diversion. He fell in Love with a very Beautiful Courtezan, who treated him with an extraordinary Coyness; either because she had a particular Aversion to him, or (which is the more probable Reason of the two) because she thought he was very deeply engag'd, and inten∣ded to make him pay dear for a Favour which he desir'd with so much Ardour. But whatever was the true Cause of her Rigour, the Prince persisted in his unsuccessful Courtship; but his Pati∣ence being at last exhausted, he resolv'd upon a Stratagem to satisfie at once both his Love and Revenge: There are in Zant certain Porters call'd Cestariols, whose Business is to carry home the Provisions that are bought by the Citizens at the Market. The irritated Prince procur'd a Cesta∣riol's Habit, which disguis'd him so well that he had no Reason to fear a Discovery. In that Dress he went to the Courtezan's Waiting-Maid, and told her, that he was so passionately in Love with her Mistress, that he shou'd certainly lose his Rea∣son if she wou'd not suffer her self to be touch'd with a compassionate Sense of his Sufferings. And to engage the Maid to employ her Interest in his Favour, he presented her with Ten Sequins, which amount to about Five and twenty Crowns; and Page  344 assur'd her that if by her Assistance he cou'd pro∣cure one Night's Pleasure, he wou'd give her as many Sequins more, and wou'd besides reward the Signora so liberally, that she shou'd never have Reason to repent her Condescension to him. The Maid was extremely surpriz'd at the Cestariol's Boun∣ty: however she forgot not to deliver his Message to her Mistress, who seem'd to receive it very cold∣ly; for she thought such an Action wou'd make her be look'd upon as a common Prostitute. But the Maid, who perhaps was not so scrupulous, and had so considerable an Interest in the Suc∣cess of this Affair, us'd all the Arguments she cou'd invent, to perswade her Mistress to a Com∣pliance, and concluded her Exhortations with this wise and prevailing Remark, That a Cestariol with a full Purse wou'd prove a better Customer than a Proveditore with an empty one; adding, that the Mistress might expect a very Noble Acknowledg∣ment from one that had been so liberal to the Maid. These sage Remonstrances had so good an Effect, that the Cestariol was introduc'd in the E∣vening to the Signora's Chamber, where he quick∣ly storm'd the Place that had so long with∣stood his Attacks. 'Twou'd be as needless to give you a more particular Account of his Night's Work, as it wou'd be to represent the Confusion and Astonisment that seiz'd the Fair One in the Morning, when she saw her Chamber full of Ser∣vants that came to dress her Bed-fellow, and found that the pretended Cestariol was transform'd into the Prince of Brunswick. However she endeavour'd to set the best Face she cou'd on so cross an Adventure, and comforted her self with the Expectation of a magnificent Reward. But she cou'd no longer con∣ceal the Discomposure of her Mind, when instead of a Handful of Sequins the Prince presented her with Three-pence, adding, That if she had entertain'd Page  345 him as a Prince, he wou'd have paid her as a Prince; but since she had only treated him as a Porter, she must content her self with Porter's Wages.

Departing from Zant, we left Corfou on our Left-hand, and enter'd the Gulf, at the Mouth of which we lost our Long-Boat in a Storm. The Fury of the Tempest being somewhat abated, we conti∣nu'd our Course with a Side-Wind, and about Mid∣night perceiv'd, by the Light of the Moon, a Sail, which pass'd very near our Ship without haling us. But she had scarce left us half a Mile when she tack'd about, and bore down upon us with full Sails; and since she was lighter than our Vessel, she quickly came up with us. Our Captain concluding that she design'd to attack us, commanded every Man to his Post, and put all things in a Readiness for an Engagement, swearing that he wou'd fire at her, if she came nearer. Some of the Seamen endea∣vour'd to perswade him that a Corsair wou'd hard∣ly venture to cruize in the Gulf; and that if the Vessel we fear'd had had such a Design, she wou'd have either fir'd at us, or boarded us as she pass'd by. But he continu'd fix'd in his Resolution, tel∣ling 'em that he plac'd more Confidence in his Guns than in their Arguments; and that if the Captain did not know his own Business, he wou'd endeavour to instruct him. And indeed he kept his Word, for assoon as cou'd have a full Aim to point his Guns at her Side, he gave her a Broad-side, and tacking about, rak'd her fore and aft: but it seems she was better acquainted with the Rules of Good-breeding than we expected, for she quickly return'd our Compliment with the same Ceremonies, and then bore away. Our Cabbin was pierc'd with a Shot, which was all the Dam∣mage we receiv'd, except the breaking of a Bar∣rel of excellent Wine, which I had provided Page  346 at Zant for my own Use, during the Quaran∣tain.

Two Days after we made the Height of Ragu∣sa, which is a considerable City seated on the Sea-side; Toward the Sea 'tis defended by a strong Cittadel, and on the other Side by a high and in∣accessible Mountain. Its Figure is almost round, and its Circuit exceeds not two Miles. The Hou∣ses are generally pretty well built; but there are none that deserve a particular Observation. The Government is Aristocratical, not much different from that of Venice, only its Weakness makes it act more cautiously for the Preservation of its Li∣berty. The Senate is compos'd of Gentlemen and a Doge: but this Dignity instead of continuing for Life, as at Venice, lasts but a Month, after which a New Doge is Elected with so little Intriguing, that oftentimes a Gentleman walking in the Public Place, is surpriz'd with the News of his Electi∣on. During the time of his Government he is serv'd and entertain'd at the Public Charge, after which he returns home to dress his Garden. Since the Government of the Castle is a more impor∣tant Office, and the Ill-management of it might prove more fatal to the Republic, it lasts not so long as the former: for a New Governour is chosen every Night, and oblig'd to remain in the Castle till his Successour come to relieve him. So that the No∣bles reckon this Commission rather a Trouble than an Honour; and wou'd be as glad to be exempted from it, as a Captain wou'd be pleas'd to be excus'd from mounting the Guard. The Garrison consists of Two hundred Men, and besides the Burgers are oblig'd to keep Guard with 'em. The Gentle∣men are exempted from that Trouble, but they must not lie one Night out of the City without a special Permission. S. Blaise is the Patron of Ragusa, as S. Mark is of Venice: and is painted on Page  347 their Banners and Ensigns, and wherever 'tis the Custom to place the Arms of the Republic. A Mile from the Town towards the Mouth of the Gulf, stands the ancient City of Ragusa, which at present is call'd Ragusa Vecchio. 'Tis inhabited by some poor People, and seems rather to be a Village than a City. The whole Territory of Ragusa ex∣tends not Thirty Miles round the City, and at Sea they are only possess'd of the Island of Au∣gusta. This little Republic makes a great Noise with a certain imaginary Liberty, of which the Ragusans are extremely fond, tho' really they are not Masters of themselves; for they are absolute∣ly commanded by the Venetians, and must do what whatever they please. The Turk and Emperour content themselves with a moderate Tribute, with∣out medling with the Affairs of the Republic; but if the Payment be delay'd, the Ragusans run the the Hazard of paying dear for their Neglect. And besides they are on several Occasions insulted over by the French King, and other European Princes; and must tamely suffer the greatest Abuses, without daring to repine at the Hand which oppresses 'em. I have all along observ'd, during the whole Course of my Travels, that one may find every-where fresh Instances of the Folly and Weakness of human Nature: and the very Sight of this Place is sufficient to put a Man in mind of that Reflexi∣on. For 'tis certain that the Liberty or Inde∣pendency of the Ragusans, as well as of several other States, is their greatest Misfortune; and that they wou'd be infinitely more happy under the Dominion of some potent Master, that cou'd protect 'em from all the Injuries and Affronts which they are daily oblig'd to suffer without the least Hope of Redress. And I'm confident, if you consider, without Prejudice, the Advantages on both sides, you will conclude with me, That, not∣withstanding Page  348 their boasted Liberty, a Wise Man wou'd rather chuse to be a Subject of Venice, than to be a Free Citizen of Ragusa. But to return to my Voyage.

The Wind coming fair, we left Ragusa, and the next Morning we came to an Anchor in the Harbour of the little City Parenzo in Istria, where we took a Pilot. For the Republick keeps always a sufficient Number of Pilots in this place, for the Conveniency of Ships that are bound for Venice; which are oblig'd to have Recourse to their Assistance, because from thence to the La∣gunes the Passage is extremely hazardous, by rea∣son of the Banks of Sand that are form'd by the Rivers Po and Brent at their Falling into the Sea. These Banks are so dangerous, and subject to so frequent Alterations, that the most skilful Pilots, who are acquainted with every Rock and Shoal in the Passage, are forc'd to steer perpetually with a Line in their Hand, for fear of some fatal Blunder, which wou'd certainly be punish'd with Death. The Difficulty of the Passage is a very considerable Disadvantage and Obstruction to Trade; but it may be reckon'd the main Security of Ve∣nice, which cannot be attack'd on that Side. For tho' a Fleet of Ships shou'd be conducted to Mala∣moca by Venetian Pilots, 'twou'd be impossible for 'em to ride there, by reason of the stormy Gusts that happen so frequently in that place.

After the charming View of Constantinople from the Sea of Marmora, I never beheld a finer Pro∣spect than that of Venice. At the Distance of Thirty Miles you begin to perceive the Spires of the Churches, and the Prospect is still enlarg'd the nearer you approach; which gives the ravish'd Spectatour the Idea of a Great City springing out of the Water. Nor can you possibly free your self from this pleasant Delusion of the Fancy till Page  349 you have enter'd the Town; for all the outer Houses of the City are founded on Piles in the midst of the Water. The Port of Venice is a large Plain cover'd with Water, in which there are cer∣tain Islands or Rising-Grounds, level with the Water, on the biggest of which Venice is built. most of the other Islands are also cover'd with Buildings, and make particular Towns; the most considerable of which is call'd Judeca, or the Jews Quarter. 'Tis said to contain Forty thousand Souls; the Houses are fair, and there are large Gardens, whither the Inhabitants go to divert themselves during the Summer, and are accommo∣dated with all sorts of Provisions, cool Liquors, and oftentimes with very agreeable Company.

The curious Traveller ought also to take a View of the Island of Mouran, where the fine Looking-Glasses are made that are so famous over all Eu∣rope; besides several other Curious Works in Glass and Crystal.

These Islands are call'd Lacunes or Lagunes, both such as are, and such as are not, inhabited. Two of 'em are set apart for the use of those who come from the Levant, where they are oblig'd to perform their Quarantain in certain large Hospitals, call'd Lazaretti. The first, call'd Lazaretto Vecchio, is but a Mile distant from Venice; but the other, where we are confin'd, is five Miles from the City. 'Tis one continu'd Building, consisting of two Stories, 300 Paces long, and divided by High Walls into six Apartments, each of which has a particular Gate that leads into a Square Court, where there is a Well, but the Water is so bad, that we never use any but what is brought from Venice. Every Apartment contains Twenty Chambers, Ten above, and as many below, separated like Cells, with a Chimney in each. Those who perform their Qua∣rantain are constantly attended by a Guardian or Page  350 Keeper, sent for that purpose by the Tribunal of Health. And we have the Misfortune to be plagu'd with one who mortifies us extremely: For he not only denies us the Liberty of conversing familiar∣ly with those who come to see us, but will not suffer us to approach within Ten Paces of 'em; and besides, they are oblig'd to take the Wind of us. No Person whatsoever, nor even the Doge himself, is exempted from these troublesome Seve∣rities, which are appointed for the Publick Secu∣rity, and for the Preservation of the City from contagious Distempers. But tho' we are not per∣mitted to entertain those who are without the La∣zaretto, there are some things which they are al∣low'd to receive from us, such as Bread, Wine, Vessels, Tobacco, Money, Wood, and generally every thing that does not consist of Threads. And yet, which in my Opinion is the most intolerable piece of Nicety in the World, they will not suffer a Letter to come out of our Hands till it be open'd and smoak'd: And I was even forc'd to open Monsieur de Hochepied's Letters to his Friends in Hol∣land; so that I shall be oblig'd to deliver 'em un∣seal'd to the Persons to whom they are directed. When a Man comes to lodge in one of these Rooms, he finds nothing but Four bare Walls, and must therefore buy an entire Set of necessary Fur∣niture: But as for Provisions, there are Barcarioli, who bring whatever you call for, allowing 'em a third part of the Price for their Pains. Every Man must be his own Cook, a Disadvantage which is more easily supported here than any where else; for our Time is so great a Burthen to us, that we are glad of any Occupation; and that which in another Place would be reckon'd a Trou∣ble, is esteem'd a Recreation here. The Lazaretto is govern'd by a Prior, appointed by the Tribunal of Health. His Revenue amounts to a Thousand Du∣cats, Page  351 worth about 3 s. 9 d. a-piece. He is entrust∣ed with the Keys of the six Apartments, which are kept shut from Sun-setting till Eight a-Clock in the Morning. The Guardians are under his Command, and are oblig'd to give him an Ac∣count of every thing. There are 120 of 'em in Office, who are employ'd by Turns, according to the Number of Ships that arrive in the Port. Their Salary, which amounts to half a Ducat a-Day, besides their Entertainment, is not paid by the Republic, but by a Tax laid upon the Passen∣gers and Goods that are committed to their Care. In the same Lagune there is a large Enclosure where the Goods are laid in a sort of Stalls or Market-Houses, supported by Pillars without Walls, and o∣pen on all Sides. And there are Faquini or Por∣ters appointed to remove 'em from time to time, and to take care that nothing be lost or da∣mag'd.

You have doubtless heard of the great Number of Spies that are kept by the Senate to give notice of every thing that is said or done against the Go∣vernment. These Informers are a horrible Plague to those who are under the Dominion of this Re∣publick, as well natural Venetians as Greeks. For the least Offence exposes a Man to the Severity of the Inquisition of the State, which is at least as terrible a Tribunal as that of Rome. Nor is it possible for a Man to know when he shou'd be upon his Guard; for those who profess the great∣est Friendship and Fidelity, are oftentimes mere In∣formers. And besides, there are Spies of all Ranks and Orders; Servants, Merchants, Officers, Citi∣zens, and Nobles, who disguise themselves with so much Care and Dexterity, that 'tis impossible to penetrate into their hidden Designs. The Re∣public is so cautious in preventing Discoveries of this Nature, that those who undertake such a Com∣mission Page  352 are enjoyn'd to conceal it even from their Wives and Children, under pain of suffering the most rigorous Penalties. And the Scandal and Odium that attends their Profession is alone suf∣ficient to oblige 'em to Secresie, tho' they were not kept in awe by the Fear of Punishment. This breeds an universal Diffidence and Shieness among all sorts of People, and makes 'em extremely re∣serv'd in discovering their Sentiments to one ano∣ther, especially in the presence of certain Persons who are more particularly suspected, such as Monks, and the Guardians of Health in the Lazaretti, who are generally reckon'd to be the Inquisitor's Spies, and I believe not without reason, as you will per∣ceive by the Relation of an Accident that hap∣pen'd to my self.

As soon as a Vessel enters the Port, the Tribu∣nal of Health sends immediately a Guardian with a Phanti on board to conduct the Passengers to the Lazaretto, that no time may be lost; for the Qua∣rantain is not reputed to begin till the Day after they come a-shore. But tho' this Custom is ve∣ry exactly observ'd on all Occasions, there arose a Dispute in our Ship about some Matters relating to Trade, that retarded our Landing Four Days, which consequently were not reckon'd in the For∣ty Days of our Quarantain. This Delay occasion'd a general Discontent among us, and we were the more sensibly afflicted, because we neither foresaw nor knew how to remedy our Misfortunes. How∣ever, the Greeks and Venetians whom he had take on board at Zant, conceal'd their Resentments with all possible Care. But I who was not so well acquainted with the Customs of the Place, and perhaps am naturally of too free a Humour, cou'd not forbear complaining of this Injustice that was done us, and was even so far transported, that I express'd my Impatience and Indignation in very Page  353 bold and emphatic Terms. In the mean time I was extremely surpriz'd to perceive an universal Si∣lence among those who heard me, and was so vex'd to find that none of 'em wou'd join with me, that at last I held my Peace. An Hour after, the Cap∣tain took me aside, and told me that I was ruin'd: I entreated him to let me know the reason that made him give me so unwelcom an Admonition: Because, reply'd he, you have spoken disadvantageously of the Government before a Guardian, who is certainly an Informer; adding, that he wou'd not have spo∣ken so freely for a Hundred thousand Crowns. Then he related five or six Tragical Stories of Per∣sons that had lost their Lives for less provoking Crimes, and added so many Arguments to convince me of my Danger, that I began to be afraid in good earnest, and to complain of his Unkindness in not giving me more timely warning. He re∣ply'd, that he ne'er thought of it, and that he cou'd not imagine me to be ignorant of a thing that was so universally known. The only way I can suggest to you, added he, to prevent your Ruine, is to be silent for the future, and to bribe the Guardian with a Present, which perhaps will stop his Mouth. In pursuance of his Advice, I gave the Guardian two Sequins, and endeavour'd to oblige him by all the Marks of Friendship and Kindness during the two days we remain'd on Board after that Accident. Yet after all, he inform'd against me, at least I had reason to suspect him; for the Prior told me t'other Day, that the Inquisitor had spoken concerning me, and had signify'd to him, that there was a very turbulent and impatient Frenchman in his La∣zaretto. This Reprimand abated, instead of encrea∣sing, my Fears, for the Inquisitor wou•d not have spoken to the Prior, if he had intended to punish my Boldness. However, this Accident shall teach me Circumspection for the future; and may serve Page  354 for a Warning to such of your Friends whose Curiosity may incite 'em to visit this Place in their Travels: For Strangers are in a more parti∣cular manner expos'd to the Severities of that dread∣ful Tribunal; and I'm persuaded that such indi∣screet Expressions have oftentimes prov'd fatal to Travellers.