A new voyage to the Levant containing an account of the most remarkable curiosities in Germany, France, Italy, Malta, and Turkey : with historical observations relating to the present and ancient state of those countries / by the Sieur du Mont ; done into English, and adorn'd with figures.

LETTER XXVIII.

SIR,

I Remember I told you, that the Order of Mal∣ta might be divided into four Classes; and I shall begin this Letter with applying the same Ob∣servation to the Noblemen of Venice: for tho' all who bear that Name are united into one Body, their Families are not equally Illustrious. The first Classis or Rank, consists of those Families who foun∣ded the Republic, and were Noble before that time. The second comprehends those who were elected before the Shutting up of the Council, which was call'd, Il Serrar del Consiglio. The third contains those who obtain'd that Honour as a Re∣compence for some eminent Services done to the State; and are therefore call'd Gentlemen by Me∣rit. And the fourth is made up of Nobili per Soldi, or Gentlemen by Purchase, who bought the Title. But notwithstanding so considerable a Difference in their Pedigrees, they have all an equal Right to give their Voices, and enjoy the same Privileges: All, from the Highest to the Lowest, go to the Great Council, and are honour'd with the Title of Excel∣lency. And even it happens not unfrequently that the most Illustrious Members of that Body are not most respected: for oftentimes a Gentleman of three Days standing is advanc'd to the Dignity of a Procurator, while the Ancient Families, and those that gave a Being to the Republic, are in a mi∣serable Condition. Here, as well as every where else, 'tis the Custom to worship the Rising Sun, and to court those who seem to be the Darlings of For∣tune: The Richest are always esteem'd the Greatest

Lords, and stand fairest for Preferment. However since all Elections are decided by Plurality of Voi∣ces in the Grand Council, the poorer Sort of Gen∣tlemen are treated with more Complaisance than they cou'd expect, if they had not a Right to Vote on such Occasions; since it may sometimes be in their Power to dispose of the Procuratorship, and even of the Ducal Coronet. This puts me in mind of a Story, which perhaps will divert you; you must take it on the Credit of its Authors. There was, say the Venetians, a certain poor Gen∣tleman, who had Occasion to take a Journey into the Country: Before his Departure he went to a Great Lord, who was his Neighbour, and intreat∣ed him to lend him a Cloak; but had the Mor∣tification to receive a flat Denyal, and was forc'd to have Recourse to another. Not long after the Doge di'd, and the rich Nobleman had so great an Inte∣rest in the Council, that when they proceeded to Balloting, he wanted but one Voice to be chosen. In the mean time the poor Gentleman happen'd to come in, and was immediately accosted by his wealthy Neighbour, who, with all imaginable Submission and Respect, begg'd his Voice; and assur'd him, that he wou'd always look upon him as the Author of his Fortune. But the Gentleman remembring his late Incivility, reply'd in an angry and disdainful manner, No, my Lord, you must e'en resolve to go without a Coronet, as you made me go without a Cloak. The Consideration of the fre∣quent Occasions they have to make use of the Assi∣stance of the rest of their Body, makes 'em treat one another with a great deal of Civility, if I may be allow'd to use so weak an Expression to signifie the Compliments and Ceremonious Nice∣ties of their Salutations, which are so extravagant, that in any other Country they wou'd be esteem'd Ridiculous. 'Tis pleasant to observe how they

court one another when they meet on the Brog∣lio: I have often seen Noblemen who stood Can∣didates for the highest Preferments, prostrate them∣selves before a poor Gentleman whose Vest was not worth a Groat, as if he had been a King, or somewhat more than Humane. The Venetian Salutations are quite different from Ours; they perform 'em slowly, to express the Modesty and Humility of their Respect, and bowing their Heads to their very Knees, continue sometimes for the Space of a Minute in that Posture, offering their Service in the most submissive Expressions; after which they raise their Bodies, and immediately begin again, repeating the same Ceremony two or three times. And they are so nicely scrupu∣lous in such Cases, that if any Nobleman shou'd venture to shorten his Reverences, or to imitate the French Air in the least, he wou'd be rec∣kon'd a base Man, who had lost all Sense of Honour.

When a Stranger comes to serve in the Venetian Army, he must immediately learn their Fashions, as the only way to avoid their Hatred, and to raise his own Fortune; tho' it must be acknow∣ledg'd these fawning Ceremonies are extremely troublesome and uneasie. I had occasion t'other Day to see the Entry of a Procurator, and took notice of some Colonels and other Officers who march'd before the Senate to the Church, where they stopt within the Door, and saluted every Nobleman as he pass'd by, with a Reverence, such as I describ'd before; so that for a large Quarter of an Hour they were perpetually em∣ploy'd in that troublesome Task. But besides those profound Reverences, there are a Thousand other Niceties, and nauseous Flatteries, which are the necessary Consequences of their Excessive Civili∣ty. You must weigh every Expression you use

either in Letters or Discourse; for 'tis not enough to avoid the Word Voi or You, which wou'd be reckon'd a Downright Affront, and to use al∣ways the Third Person Lei, or Ella, but you must take care to repeat the most submissive Phrases, such as If it please my Patron, If my Patron vouchsafe to command me, &c. You must still say, My Patron said or did such a thing; and whatever Epithet you bestow upon him, you must never forget to add issimo to the End of it; for 'twou'd be rec∣kon'd a poor Compliment to call a Man Nobile, Docto, or Galanto, instead of which you must say he is Nobilissimo, Doctissimo, and Galantissimo. The same, or rather greater Ceremonies, are observ'd in Writing; I remember I have seen some Letters from the Captain Generals Cornaro and Mocenigo to a Greek Merchant, in which they gave him the Ti∣tle of Molto Illustre Signor. Four Fingers breadth lower the Letter began thus, Ho ricevuto de vostra Signoria molto Illustre, &c. and the rest was all of a Piece: At the End of the Letter were these Words, de vostra Signoria molto illustre, devotissimo Servitore; then a Space of Six Fingers breadth, and the Subscription at the Bottom. I was ex∣tremely surpriz'd at the Extravagancy of these Compliments, when I consider'd the Quality of the Writers, and of him to whom the Letters were directed; and I leave you to judge what Ceremonies must be observ'd between Equals. A Letter to a Nobleman must be directed thus, Al' Illustrissimo & Excellentissimo Signor, & mio Padrone Colendissimo, il Signor, &c. and the Body of the Let∣ter must be sutable to the flattering Superscripti∣on. You must take care to give every Man the Titles that are appropriated to Persons of his Rank and Quality: Thus when you speak to a Trades∣man, you must call him Signor Pietro, or Signor Paolo; to a Citizen or Merchant you must say Vostra

Signoria, and, in Letters, Vostra Signoria molto Illu∣stre. A Counsellor, Physician, Notary, or a Gentleman who is a Subject is styl'd la Signoria Illustrissima; The proper Title of the Nobles is l' Excellenza; and the Doge is usually call'd la Serenita, or il Serenissimo; for they rarely say il Dogio. But when they say il Principe, they always mean the Re∣public. Thus all Orders and Proclamations begin thus, Il Serenissimo Principe fa sapere; The most Serene Prince declares, or gives Notice: And tis usually said in familiar Discourse, Il Principe ha prohibito le Pom∣pe; The Prince has prohibited the wearing of Costly Appa∣rel, &c. Thus they speak when they do not so much as think of the Doge, who has no more Power to make such Regulations, than the mean∣est Officer that belongs to the Republic; and far from being a Soveraign, he is so much a Sub∣ject, that he dares hardly move one Inch with∣out Orders. Francis Morosini, the present Doge, was elected to that Dignity in April 1688, while he was obtaining Victories for the Republick abroad. And yet as told and infirmas he is, he was forc'd to continue in that fatiguing Employment, and at last, with much ado, and after a whole Year spent in humble and earnest Solicitations, he obtain'd leave to quit the Service, and return'd to Venice last Year. He is the first Doge that ever enter'd the City with the Ducal Coronet on his Head: Nor cou'd the Senate refuse to grant some unu∣sual Mark of Honour to the Conqueror of all Morea. However, I'm strongly inclin'd to suspect that the main Consideration which made him so uneasie till he had obtain'd a Permission to leave the Army, was his Fear of losing the Glory he had acquir'd. And you will be of the same O∣pinion if you consider the ill Success of his At∣tempt upon Negropont; and the slow Progress he made in the Siege of Napoli di Malvasia, which

held out two Years against him, and was still in so good a Condition at his Departure, that there was little or no hope of reducing it; tho' for want of Provisions the Garrison was oblig'd to surren∣der the Place to the General during the last Campaign.

The length of this Siege puts me in mind of Candy, which for so long a time was attack'd and defended with equal Obstinacy and Vigour. 'Twas the same Morosini who commanded in the Place, and the Senate being unwilling to waste so much Blood and Treasure in the Defence of a Place which, after all, they cou'd not hope to preserve, sent him positive Orders to Capitulate. But he was so desirous of Glory, and had so mean an Opinion of the Turkish Valour, that he assur'd the Senate, if they wou'd continue to supply him with necessary Provisions, he wou'd either save the Place, or bury himself under its Ruines. Yet, for all his bravery, he was forc'd to submit to the Chance of War, without performing ei∣ther part of his Promise: And at his return to Venice he had the mortification to meet with a ve∣ry bad Reception on the Broglio. Some of the No∣bles were so incens'd against him, that they dis∣cover'd their Spite by abusing him to his Face, asking by way of Derision, Ha! is not this Moro∣sini; while others reply'd with equal Bitterness and Contempt, No, no, that can't be the Man who promis'd to bury himself under the Ruines of Candy, if he shou'd find himself unable to preserve it. But the Ma∣lice of his Enemies did not evaporate in Jests, they were not satisfy'd with so poor a Revenge, but prosecuted him so warmly, that his Head was in a tottering Condition. One of 'em represent∣ed his Crime to the Council, and in a vehement and pathetic Discourse, accus'd him of abusing the Senate, by promising such things as he cou'd not

perform, and of engaging the Republick in a pro∣digious Charge, which might have been better employ'd another way. Nor was this the single Opinion of one Person, for several others voted him guilty: Yet his good Fortune deliver'd him from so great a Danger, and has now set the Co∣ronet on his Head; he is somewhat lean, and of a middle Stature; his Hair and Beard are white; he wears Whiskers, and a little Tuft of Hair up∣on his Chin. I saw him at the Entry of his Kinsman the Procurator Morosini; and since I have occasion again to speak of that Solemnity, which I only mention'd before, I shall now give you a particular Account of it: But before I describe the Order of the Cavalcade, it will not be im∣proper to acquaint you with the Preparations that were made in the Church of S. Mark.

From the Door of the Nave or Body of the Church to that of the Quire, there was a Lane border'd with Rows of Benches, thro' which the Doge and Procurators were to pass; and both the Floor and Benches were cover'd with Turkish Tapestry. The Quire was also full of Benches, without any Difference or Mark of Distinction; only the Doge's Place was cover'd with red Velvet; and besides, there was a Cushion of the same Velvet at his Feet, and another on the Place where he lean'd at Prayer. The Altar was embellish'd with the richest Jewels, Relicks, Candlesticks, and other Or∣naments; and the Patiarch's great Vicar waited in his Seat for the Doge's coming. He wore a Chasuble embroider'd with Pearls, worth above 6000 Ducats; and the Hangings of the Altar were no less rich.

The Church being thus prepar'd, the Signiory or Noblemen began their Cavalcade from the Hall of the Great Council in S. Mark's Palace, where they were assembl'd to assist at the Solemnity.

In the first place march'd the Doge's Servants, to the Number of Forty, in long Livery Cloaks. Then came the Societies of Tradesmen, or rather a confus'd Company of private Persons who came of their own accord to honour the new Procu∣rator; for their Presence was not requir'd by any positive Order. These were follow'd by a Hundred Sclavonian Soldiers, arm'd only with Sa∣bres, who had obtain'd leave to come from the Army, and appear'd on this Occasion at the desire of their Commanders. Twelve or Fifteen Offi∣cers march'd before 'em, among whom was a Ser∣geant Major; and there were some also in the Rear. These Officers were not arm'd, because they came voluntarily, not by command; for at Venice every Man is welcome on such Occasions, tho' he be not invited. Then came the Eight Standards of the Republick, Two Red, Two White, Two Blue, and Two of a Violet-colour; the Red being carry'd first, to signifie the present War. These were immediately follow'd by the Signiory, who march'd Two and Two, in open-sleev'd Gowns, or Robes of Red Cloth furr'd with Ermines. There were at least Three hundred Nobles, comprehen∣ding the Senators and the Procurators, who form'd the last Ranks, and consequently were next the Doge. He that made his Entry walk'd among the rest, without any Mark of Distincti∣on either in his Habit, or any other Respect; so that if some Persons had not shew'd him to to me, I cou'd not have distinguish'd him from the rest of the Procurators. The Robes or Gowns of all the Procurators are exactly alike; nor is there any difference among the Nobles in respect of their Habits; that so none may pretend to Su∣periority over another. After them came the Doge, who represents the Soveraign: He had a Vest of Red Brocado, with Gold Flowers, and

over that a Duc•••• Mantle, of a very rich Stuff of Gold. His Coronet is a Cap of Past∣board neatly cover'd with the same rich Stuff, and adorn'd with some Galoons, without either Pearls or Precious Stones. There is a sort of Point on the hinder part of the Cap, that bends a little forwards. The magnificent Coronet that is kept in the Treasury, is only us'd on the Day of the Doge's Coronation. He was accompany'd on the Right-hand by the Pope's Nuncio, and on the Left by the French Ambassador, Monsieur de la Haye. The first was in a Camail and Rochet, and the other in a black Cloak. Two Citizens bore the Doge's Train, which otherwise wou'd have trail'd above four Feet on the Ground. Last of all march'd Fifty or Sixty Nobles, in the same Or∣der as before. As the Noblemen pass'd by, there were certain old and young Women that strew'd the Way with Flowers and Green Leaves, espe∣cially before the Doge: In the mean time the Guns at the Arsenal were fir'd, and the Compa∣ny was entertain'd with the Noise of the Prince's Trumpets and Kettle-Drums, which were plac'd on the Top of the Portico of the Church, be∣tween the two Brazen Horses, from whence they might be easily heard, because 'tis not Three hun∣dred Paces from thence to the Hall of the Great Council. As soon as the Doge enter'd, he went immediately to perform his Devotions upon the Steps of the Altar, where he kneel'd without a Cushion. As he return'd to his Place, the Nun∣cio happen'd to be on his Left-hand, and the Ambassador on his Right, but they instantly chang'd Places, and proceeded as before to the Place where the Doge was to sit. After the Doge had seated himself, the Nuncio sate down on his Right-hand, and Monsieur de la Haye took his Place on the Right-hand of the Nuncio; so that

the Nuncio sate between the Doge and the Am∣bassador. This preposterous Order will perhaps surprize you; for according to the Ceremonies that are observ'd on such Occasions, the Doge ought to have sate in the Middle: But I had forgot to tell you, that there was no particular Place appointed for the Doge, neither a Tribune, Pew, nor so much as an arm'd Chair; so that he was forc'd to make use of the Seat that be∣longs to the Dean of the Canons, which is the first on the Right-hand next the Door of the Quire. The rest of the Seats in the same Row were fill'd by the Procurators and Senators; so that the Doge had only the first Place among the Senators, without any other Mark of Distinction than the red Velvet with which his Seat was cover'd.

The Doge's Behaviour during the Mass was not very edifying, for he spent the whole time in discoursing with the Nuncio and the French Am∣bassador, and express'd a great deal of Earnestness by his Actions. Tho' I cou'd not pretend to divine the Subject of his Discourse, I cou'd easily perceive that he talk'd of some important Affair; for Monsieur de la Haye rose from his Place, and talk'd with him above a quarter of an Hour, chusing rather to stand while the Nuncio sate, and to turn his Back to the Altar, than to lose the Opportunity of imparting something with which, in all probability, he long'd to entertain him. After the Mass was ended, the Doge and Nobles return'd in the same Order as before, to the Palace of S. Mark, where they were regal'd by the New Procurator with a splendid Collation of Wax, for so it might be properly call'd, since most of the Dishes contain'd nothing else. The whole Table was cover'd with Trophies, Confections, Turky-Cocks, Partridges, and Fruits represented in Wax,

excepting two or three Places where there were Dishes of good and delicious Victuals: For the Italian Cooks are at least as skilful as ours. I ne∣ver saw People eat more heartily than these Gen∣tlemen, and I'm apt to believe that their Cu∣stom of serving up the Dishes singly might sharpen their Appetite; for 'tis certain that the very sight of a full Table cloys the Stomach. Yet I cou'd not forbear telling one of the Company, that this manner of Entertainment, and especially the Feast of Trophies was very odd and ridiculous: But the Person to whom I addrest my self, made a shift to answer my Objection by pretending that they observ'd this Method to avoid the trouble of co∣vering so large a Table several times, which cou'd not be done without Confusion.

That and the two following Days were spent in rejoycing; The Streets were full of People in Masquerade, and the Merchants expos'd their rich∣est Commodities. There was nothing to be seen in the Shops but Brocado's of Gold and Silver, Galoons, Fringes, and Ribbons; Sonnets in Ho∣nour of the Procurator were scatter'd about by Thousands, and Prints of him every where hung out. At Night there were great Illuminations at his Palace, and at that of S. Mark; and the whole City in the general seem'd to be full of Joy; tho' 'tis certain the Pomp wou'd have been much greater if the Magistrates, to whom the Re∣gulation of such Ceremonies does properly be∣long, had not publish'd an Order three Days be∣fore, to moderate the Expence of the Solemnity: For otherwise the whole City wou'd have been illuminated, the Ladies wou'd have adorn'd them∣selves with Pearls and Jewels, all the Lacqueys wou'd have appear'd in Liveries, and the Canal wou'd have been cover'd with magnificent Gon∣dola's, embellish'd with Flaggs and Streamers, and

fill'd with Consorts of Musick. Besides the Pro∣curator's Friends wou'd have signaliz'd their Joy in a particular manner, by Feasts, Illuminations, and Fire-Works: But all this Pageantry was pre∣vented by a positive Order from the above-menti∣on'd Tribunal. At the same time, another Edict was publish'd, which concerns all Persons in gene∣ral, and is only a Repetition of those Regulations that were formerly made on such Occasions. By this last Order all Venetians, whether Nobles or Citizens, are prohibited to wear any sort of Stuff, embroider'd Fringe or Galoon, of Gold, Sil∣ver, Steel, or any thing that shines or casts a Lu∣stre. The same Edict forbids Lace, new Fashi∣ons of Cloaths, Liveries, and the Painting or Adorning of Gondola's; and restrains the Women from using Gold or Silver Ribbons, and from wear∣ing above three Rows of Fringes or Lace on their Pettycoats, and even those Ornaments must only be worn on the Fore-part of the Pettycoat. But those who are call'd Novices are allow'd, during the two first Years of their Noviciate, to wear a String of Pearls, and a Gold Fringe about their Pettycoats. The Novices are such as are newly married.

All Strangers are excus'd from complying with this Order for six Months after the Day of their Arrival; but assoon as that time is expir'd, they must submit to the Custom as well as the Natives, unless they belong to the Retinue of an Ambassa∣dour; tho' Offences of this Nature are rarely punish'd.

When I consider the extreme Eagerness with which the Noble Venetians contend for the Ducal Dignity, I cannot forbear reflecting on the Weak∣ness of Humane Nature, which exposes us to the most fatal Delusions, and prompts us to court the dazzling Appearances of Grandeur, tho' we are

convinc'd of the Vanity of that Enjoyment in which we seem to place our Happiness. For, in my Opinion, the Condition of a simple Senatour is infinitely more happy than that of the Doge. He is permitted to enjoy the Pleasure of Walk∣ing, to visit his Friends, and to go to the Opera and Ridotti. He is not perpetually watch'd, and haunted Night and Day by a Multitude of Spies, under the Name of Counsellours; nor is he ob∣lig'd to give an exact Account of his Actions. But the Doge is a gawdy Slave loaded with Fetters, which are not the less heavy because they are gilded: And his Authority extends no farther, than to no∣minate some Officers of the Palace, and to create some Knights of S. Mark.

This Order of Knighthood may be divided into three Classes or Ranks. The First comprehends the Knights of the Golden Star, who are all Noble Vene∣ians, that owe their Dignity to their Merit, and wear a Star border'd with a Gold Galoon. The Second Rank consists of the Knights of S. Mark, who are call'd Knights of the Senate: And this Ho∣nour is usually conferr'd as a Recompence, on Co∣lonels, and even sometimes on Captains, who have signaliz'd their Bravery in an extraordinary man∣ner, or render'd some important Services to the Republic. The Captain-General recommends the Person to the Senate, who, if the Bal∣loting run in his Favour, receives the Order, and with it a Pension of at least a Thousand Ducats a Year. These Knights wear a Medal at one of their Button-holes, with the Figure of S. Mark on one Side, and a Device on the Reverse, ac∣cording to the Pleasure of the Senate. They are honour'd with the Title of Illustrissimo, and are much respected: but the Dignity is indifferently bestow'd upon all, whether Noble or Ignoble, Venetians or Foreigners. The Third and last Rank is made up

of the Doge's Knights, who confers the Honour on whom he pleases, and oftentimes on those who never wore a Sword; for any Man may purchase the Title of Illustrissimo at the Rate of a Hundred Sequins, which, if I am not mistaken, is the usual Price of this Dignity. Yet notwith∣standing the Lowness of the Rate, the Doge finds but few Customers; for the Italians are not over∣fond of so unprofitable Honour. So that this Classis of Knights consists chiefly of Foreign Officers, who receive some Benefit by the Title; since it not only procures 'em a more than ordinary Respect, but confirms 'em in the Possession of their Em∣ployments.

Since the mentioning of these Officers puts me in mind of the Venetian Army, I shall take this Occa∣sion to give you some Account of the Forces that are maintain'd by the Republick. The total Number of the Soldiers both at Land and Sea, hardly amounts to Four and twenty thousand; and of these there are usually Twelve or Fifteen thou∣sand in the Field. The Captain-General, who com∣mands 'em, is always a Noble Venetian, and has under him a General of the Land-Forces, Lieutenant-Generals, and Sergeant-Majors, who are almost al∣always Foreigners; for the Noble Venetians are not very ambitious of Military Employments. 'Tis true, they cannot be accus'd of Want of Cou∣rage; but since a Soldier must serve his Appren∣ticeship with his Musquet on his Shoulder, be∣fore he can attain to any Perfection in his Art, they cannot endure to think of stooping so low: and even there is hardly one of 'em that wou'd not think it beneath him to accept a Captain's Com∣mission. The Soldiers are for the most part Fo∣reigners, as well as the Generals; for, except three or four small Italian Regiments, which are not much esteem'd, the rest of the Army consists ei∣ther

of Germans, or Frenchmen, whom they call Tra∣montani. The Pay of Foreigners is double to that which is allow'd to the Italians; and no Captain must receive a Soldier of another Nation into his Compa∣ny, under Pain of being cashier'd without Remission. But the same Order is not observ'd in the Italian Regiments, for any Man may be admitted to serve in 'em. And since the Foreign Captains wou'd be at a Loss for want of Men, the Re∣public takes care to supply 'em with Recruits: Only they must be very cautious in preventing the Desertion of their Men; for when a Compa∣ny is extremely diminish'd, the Captain is always reform'd, and the Soldiers serve to recruit the rest of the Regiment. I know several Officers, who lost their Places by Misfortunes of this Nature; which sometimes cannot be avoided, especially a∣mong the French, who desert by Hundreds at a time. If it were not for this only Inconvenien∣cy, I shou'd have a very good Opinion of the Venetian Service; for a Foreign Captain has no less than a Hundred Ducats a Month, which makes Two hundred and fifty French Livres; a Lieutenant has Thirty, and an Ensign Twenty five. Besides there is not a Place in the World where a Soldier has a nearer Prospect of Advancement; for since the Army is not very Numerous, and the Noble Ve∣netians never pretend to Military Preferments, a Stranger has a fair Opportunity of raising his For∣tune: So that a Captain must either be extreme∣ly unfortunate, or negligent in the Performance of his Duty, if his Service be not rewarded with a Colonel's Commission, or even with more con∣siderable Preferment. The Army is full of Sergeant-Majors, who owe their Fortune meerly to their Merit; and there is no Post so high which a brave Man may not in time hope to obtain. 'Tis a wonderful Encouragement to a Young Aspirer,

to see daily so many Examples that flatter and ex∣cite his Ambition. Besides their travelling by Sea frees 'em from the Charge of providing an Equipage; which is a great Advantage to those who are not over-stock'd with Money. Add to these Conveniencies the free and unconstrain'd Way of living a-la-mode de Venice; and it must be ac∣knowledg'd, that a Man may easily chuse a less com∣fortable Employment. I know the World has ge∣nerally so bad an Opinion of the Venetian Service, that 'tis usually the last Refuge of those who are reduc'd to Extremity: Nor am I ignorant that the Officers are not here on the same Foot as in France, and that the meanest Scoundrels find Admittance; but, after all, the Service is not really less advantageous for these Inconvenien∣cies.

But, as for the Common Soldiers, their Condi∣tion is so miserable, that I wou'd rather chuse to serve a Tinker, than to carry a Musquet at Ve∣nice. Their Pay amounts to no more than Three Pence a Day; and besides they must furnish their own Clothes. Judge then what Provision they can make for their Bellies, and whether their Desertion can be reckon'd a Fault. Those who serve at Sea have the same Pay, and Clothes in∣to the Bargain; but they must buy their Provisi∣ons, for they are allow'd only Bread and Water. There are Eleven Ships belonging to the Republic, commanded by the Captain-General; for there is no Admiral. But besides the little Care that is ta∣ken to keep 'em in Repair, they are so defective in all Respects, that they hardly deserve the Name of Ships, much less of Men of War. In every Ship there is a Noble Venetian, with the Title of Com∣mander, who pehaps never saw a Mast before his coming on Board: but he has under him a Cap∣tain, whom he consults, or rather suffers to com∣mand.

These Captains (who are usually old and expert Pilots) have Thirty Ducats a Month besides their Entertainment; and may in time be ad∣vanc'd to the Command of a Merchant-Ship, if the Owners think fit to trust 'em. The Ban∣ner of Venice is Red, with a Lyon in the Middle, holding an open Book in one of his Paws, with these Words, Pax tibi, Marce, Evangelista meus. Many take this Lyon for the Arms of Venice, but they are extremely mistaken; for the Republic has no Coat of Arms, and wou'd be loth to adorn a Scutcheon with that Sacred Beast, whom they honour as an Emblem of S. Mark, or rather that Evangelist himself represented under the Figure of a Lyon. I knew that Painters usually give that Saint a Lyon for his Companion; but I cou'd not believe that the Venetian Lyon was the Saint himself, till I was convinc'd by the repeated Af∣firmations of several credible Persons, and even of some Noblemen; who, to satisfie my Scruples, told me the following Story.

S. Mark was a Youth of such exquisite Beauty, that his only Sister fell so desperately in Love with him, that notwithstanding all his Holy Ad∣monitions, she haunted him Night and Day, fol∣low'd him whithersoever he went, and continu∣ally begg'd him to satisfie her Passion. At last the young Saint perceiving that all his Severity cou'd not extinguish her Criminal Flame, besought God to transform him into the most hideous Creature in the World. His Prayer was grant∣ed, and he was instantly turn'd to a Lyon, whose gaping Mouth, and horrid Roaring, so terrify'd his Sister, that immediately she fell upon her Knees, pray'd to God to forgive her, and was convert∣ed. The Open Book he holds in his Talons, re∣presents the Gospel, of which they pretend to have the Original in the Treasury; and the

Words that are written in it are the same with which Christ saluted him when he came to visit him in Prison.

Perhaps you'll think that this Story deserves a place in Ovid's Metamorphoses; but I can assure you the Venetians are oblig'd to believe it, under Pain of being accounted Hereticks. Sometimes they represent him with, and sometimes without Wings, but they seldom or never forget to draw Rays about his Head; and very often the Doge is painted kneeling before him. At least he is thus represented in all the most remarkable Pla∣ces, such as the Front of the Palace of S. Mark, &c.

I'm sensible I have already detain'd you too long, but I must not finish my Letter before I have finish'd the Account I promis'd to give you of the Venetian Nobles. I had form'd so strange an Idea from the Character I had receiv'd of 'em, that I look'd upon 'em as the most Haughty and Ill-natur'd Men in the World. And even a Fa∣mous Author has the Confidence to affirm that one of their usual Recreations is to affront Stran∣gers who seem to be Persons of Note; thrusting 'em into the Canal as they walk along the Streets, spitting upon 'em at the Opera, beating 'em with flaming Torches, and hiring Bravo's to murder 'em. Yet to do Justice to that Illustrious Body, I can assure you, that I never met with more civil and obliging Persons in the World. I have the Honour to know two or three of 'em, and perceive daily so many conspicuous Marks of good Nature in all their Actions, that I cannot, with∣out Indignation, reflect on the Impudence of those who have so unjustly blacken'd their Character. 'Tis true, they take Care to maintain the Ho∣nour of their Birth, and their Authority over the Citizens and the rest of their Subjects: but they

are so far from insulting or tyrannizing over 'em, that they are always ready to grant their Protection to honest Men; and as for Strangers, there is not a City in the World where they meet with a kinder and more civil Entertainment. They may do what they please, for no Man ei∣ther enquires into, or comments upon their Acti∣ons; and when they meet with a Nobleman, they are treated with all imaginable Marks of Honour and Civility. There are several Coffee-Houses under the Procuraties, some of which are set apart for the Nobility; and that Order is so strictly observ'd that a Citizen never enters into 'em. But if a Foreigner, who has the Appearance of a Gentle∣man, go in to one of these Places, all the No∣bles that are there begin immediately to caress him; and there is not one of 'em who wou'd not willingly embrace the Offer of his Acquaintance, provided he belongs not to the Retinue of an Ambassador: for they are severely prohibited by the Laws of the State to entertain any correspon∣dence with such Persons.

As for the Bravo's, I will not pretend to af∣firm that Venice was never plagu'd with those barbarous and inhuman Murderers. It must be acknowledg'd that the Senate tolerated these Abu∣ses too long: There was a time when some No∣bles kept Fifteen or Twenty o•• those Ruffians; and there were others who were still ready to serve any Man in their Way, that is, for so ma∣ny Sequins wou'd agree to kill a Man, or to break his Arms for such a Number of Ducats. But the Face of Affairs is wonderfully chang'd since that time, and so vast a Number of those Villains have ended their Lives either on a Gibbet, or in the Galleys, that the Race of 'em seems to be quite extinct. The Shirts of Mail that were sold in those Days for Fifty Pistoles a-piece, are now sold

for half a Crown to Fishermen, who use 'em for catching Oysters: For these Cautions, that were once thought so necessary for preventing secret As∣sassinations, are now become so useless, that one may walk as secure thro' the City by Night as by Day, and during the Carnaval as in Lent: At least I have not yet heard of any Disord••rs since my Arrival. On the contrary, I shou'd never de∣sire to converse with a more harmless and peace∣able People; and if there are any Insolencies com∣mitted, I shou'd rather accuse the French as the Authors of 'em, who in this, as well as in all other Places, assume those Liberties by which they affect to distinguish themselves from other Nations. On∣ly I wou'd not advise any Man to hunt too bold∣ly in a Nobleman's Inclosure; for 'tis certain that there is none of 'em so Complaisant as to see his Wife kiss'd, without resenting the Affront, and that notwithstanding the seeming Extirpation of the Bravo's, the injur'd Nobleman wou'd quickly find a sufficient Number of 'em to execute his Revenge. Their Jealousie is accompany'd with so implacable a Fury, that they wou'd rather ruine themselves and their whole Family, than suffer a bold Intruder into their secret Delights to escape unpunish'd; and after they had sacrific'd the Lo∣ver to their Rage, they wou'd infallibly compleat their Revenge by the Death of her who betray'd 'em. Such Accidents have sometimes happen'd, and 'tis to be observ'd, that in such Cases the Se∣nate never enquires into the Murder. For every Nobleman may poison his Wife for Adultery, and cause her Gallant to be poniarded, without fear∣ing to be call'd in question for so bloody a Re∣venge; since 'tis suppos'd that no Man wou'd have recourse to such violent Methods, if he were not fully convinc'd of his Wife's Infidelity. I confess this way of satisfying their Revenge seems at first

View to be extremely base and unworthy of a Man of Honour: But you will be the less surpriz'd at their manner of Proceeding in these Cases, if you con∣sider that, notwithstanding their Nobility, 'tis not their Profession to bear Arms. For they are as much Men of the Gown as the Presidents of the Par∣liament at Paris; and are therefore under a sort of Obligation to abstain from Duels. Neverthe∣less since 'tis not just that they shou'd tamely suf∣fer themselves to be Cuckolded, they must exe∣cute their Vengeance by Proxy, since their Pro∣fession restrains em from making their own Hands the Instruments of their Revenge.

I shall in the next place give you a short Ac∣count of their Habit: They wear a black Gown exactly like that of a Minime Friar; only 'tis longer, wider, and open before; the Sleeves are so big that they hang down almost to the Ground, and they have a little Collar or Neckband like that which is us'd by the Jesuites. In the Win∣ter their Gowns are lin'd with a greyish Fur, which reaches a hands-breadth beyond the Cloth, all along the Breast, and are ty'd about with a Leathern-Girdle, adorn'd with Silver Buckles and Bosses. In Summer they use neither Girdles nor Furrs; for they wear their Vests loose by reason of the Heat, and line 'em with very thin Taffata: But they still wear Cloth Gowns of the same big∣ness as in Winter. On their Shoulders they wear a sort of Bag or Hood of the same Cloth, call'd the Stole, 18 or 20 Inches broad, and twice as long, which is extremely troublesome. Under their Gowns they have only a little Doublet, almost quite cover'd with black Lace, and adorn'd with Ribbans at the turning up of the Sleeves. Their Shirts are always very white and fine. Their Breeches are open and very wide, like those that were us'd by Citizens in France Fifty Years ago;

and they are also full of Lace and Ribbans. This Garb is both stately and cheap; for a Gown lasts at least three or four Years. The only Fault I find in their Habit is that they use neither Bands nor Cravates. Formerly they were oblig'd to wear their own Hair, but now they use the finest and longest Periwigs, which is certainly one of the most necessary parts of their Dress: for their Caps are so ill-contriv'd, that there can be nothing more proper to disfigure a Man's Face, which perhaps is the reason why at present they only wear 'em in their Hands like a Fan.

These Nobles, notwithstanding the Dignity of their Character, scruple not to go to the Market, and buy all the little Provisions that are requir'd for the maintaining of a Family. But I believe they are injur'd by those who pretend that they carry home their Provisions in the Sleeves of their Gowns; for there are Porters or Cestarioli, who have no other Occupation, and whose Hire is so small, that even the meanest Tradesmen make use of 'em. Nor must you imagine that the Principal and Rich Nobles buy their own Provisions; for the Markets are only frequented by the poorer sort of Gentlemen, of whom there is a considerable Num∣ber, and whose Condition is the more deplorable, because they must not endeavour to improve it by Trading.

I know not what Apology to make for the ex∣cessive Length of my Letter, unless you will be satisfy'd with that common Excuse for all sorts of Faults, that I did not intend it. I confess that will not make amends for the trouble I have gi∣ven you, but I hope you'll for once admit a Plea that can never be more justly urg'd than in Ca∣ses of this Nature; for it oftentimes happens, that when a Man comes to the End of the Leaf where he design'd to have ended his Letter, he

finds himself oblig'd to begin another, and per∣haps two or three before he can finish his Mat∣ter.

I am,

SIR,

Your, &c.

Venice, 1692.