A voyage to the Pacific Ocean; for making discoveries in the northern hemisphere: performed under the direction of Captains Cook, Clerke, and Gore, in the years 1776, 1777, 1778, 1779, 1780. / By Captain James Cook, F.R.S. and Captain James King, LL.D. and F.R.S. ; Illustrated with elegant plates, and a large chart. In four volumes. Vol. I[-IV].

A VOYAGE TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN. BOOK. V. JOURNAL OF THE TRANSACTIONS ON RETURN|ING TO THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.

CHAP. I

Karakakooa Bay described—Multitudes of the Na|tives surround the Ships—Despotic Authority of the Chiefs over the inferior People—A Visit re|ceived from Koah—Description of the Moral at Kakoa—Offering made to Captain Cook at the Morai—Mr. King erects Observatories—The Spot on which they are situated, tabooed—Method of curing Meat in Tropical Climates—Society of Priests accidentally discovered—Their Munifi|cence—Ceremony at the Reception of Captain Cook—Mean Artifice of Koah—Arrival of Ter|reeoboo—The Bay tabooed upon that Occasion—Bring the Inhabitants to Obedience, by firing a Musquet—Remarkable Ceremony—Visit from Ter|reeoboo—Captain Cook returns it.

THE Bay of Karakakooa is situated in the district of Acona, on the west side of the island of Owhyhee. It extends about a mile in

depth, and is bounded by two points of land, bearing south-east and north-west from each other, at the distance of half a league. The north point is flat and barren, on which is situated the village of Kowrowa. A more considerable village, called Kakooa, stands in the bottom of the bay, near a grove of stately cocoa-trees. A high rocky cliff, inaccessible from the sea-shore, runs be|tween them. Near the coast, on the south side, the land has a rugged appearance; beyond which the country gradually rises, and abounds with cultivated inclosures, and groves of cocoa-trees. The habitations of the people are scattered about in great plenty. Round the bay the shore is co|vered with a black coral rock, except at Kakooa, where there is an excellent sandy beach, with a Morai at one extremity, and a spring of fresh water at the other. We moored at the north side of this bay, and within a quarter of a mile from the shore.

The inhabitants, perceiving our intention to anchor in the bay, came off in a stonishing num|bers, expressing their joy by singing, shouting, and the most extravagant gestures. The decks, fides, and riggings of our ships were covered with them. Women and boys, who were unable to procure canoes, came swimming round us in great multitudes; some of whom, not finding room to get on board, amused themselves the whole day by playing in the water.

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One of the chiefs, who visited the Resolution, was named Pareea. Though a young man, we soon discovered him to be a person of great au|thority. He told Captain Cook that he was Jackane* 1.1 to the sovereign of the island, who was then on a military expedition at Mowee; whence he was expected to return in a few days. Some presents from the Commodore attached him to our interests, and we found him exceedingly use|ful to us. Before we had been long at anchor, the Discovery had so many people hanging on one side, that she was observed to heel consider|ably; and our people found it impossible to pre|vent the crowds from pressing into her. Captain Cook, apprehensive that she might receive some injury, communicated his fears to Pareea, who instantly cleared the ship of its incumberances, and dispersed the canoes that surrounded her.

From this circumstance, it appears that the chiefs have a most despotic authority over the in|ferior people. An instance, similar to this, hap|pened on board the Resolution; where the crowd so far impeded the ordinary business of the ship, that we found it necessary to apply to Kaneena, another chief, who had also attached himself par|ticularly to Captain Cook. The inconvenience we suffered was no sooner mentioned, than he ordered the natives immediately to quit the ves|sel;

when, without a moment's hesitation▪ we saw them all jump over-board; except one person, who loitered behind, and, by his manner, ex|pressed some degree of unwillingness to obey. Kaneena observing this contempt of his autho|rity, took hold of him immediately, and threw him into the sea.

These two chiefs were exceedingly well propor|tioned, and had countenances remarkable pleas|ing. Kaneena, whose portrait was drawn by Mr. Webber, was as fine a figure as can be seen. His height was about six feet, his features were regu|lar and expressive, his deportment was easy, firm, and graceful, and he had dark lively eyes.

Mention has already been made, that while we were cruizing off this island, the inhabitants had acted fairly and honestly, without manifesting the least propensity to theft; which was the more remarkable, because those with whom we had hitherto any dealings, were people of the lowest rank, such as fishermen or servants. The case was now exceedingly altered. The multitude of islanders, who blocked up every part of the ships, afforded opportunity of pilfering without danger of discovery, and even if detected, must have escaped with impunity from our inferiority in number. To the encouragement of their chiefs this alteration might also be attributed; for, as we frequently traced the booty into the possession

of some great men, there is little doubt but these depredations were made at their instigation.

The Resolution having got into her station, the two chiefs, Pareea and Kaneena, brought a third on board, whose name was Koah. He was re|presented to us as a priest, and one who, in his early days, had distinguished himself as a warrior. He was a little old emaciated figure, having sore red eyes, and his body covered with a leprous scurf, occasioned by the immoderate use of the ava. Being conducted to the cabin, he ap|proached the Commodore with the greatest de|ference, threw a piece of red cloth over his shoulders, and retreated a few paces, made an offering of a small pig, at the same time pro|nouncing a discourse of a considerable length.

During our coutinuance at Owhyhee, this ceremony was repeated often, and from a variety of circumstances, appeared to us to be a kind of religious adoration. Red cloth is an article with which their idols are arrayed, and a pig is their common offering to the Eatooas. Their speeches were delivered with a volubility that indicated them to be conformable to some ritual.

At the conclusion of this ceremony, Koah dined with the Commodore, and eat plentifully of the viands before him; but, like most of the islanders in these seas, he could hardly be induced to taste our wine or spirits a second time. In the even|ing, the Commodore, Mr. King, and Mr. Baily,

accompanied him on shore. As soon as we land|ed on the beach, we were preceded by four men, bearing each a wand tipt with dog's hair, and pronouncing, with a loud voice, a short sen|tence, in which the word Orono* 1.2 was very dis|tinguishable. The crowd which had assembled on the shore, retired at our approac••; and not an individual was to be seen, except a few who had prostrated themselves on the ground, near the habitations of the adjacent village.

Before we relate an account of the peculiar ceremonies respecting the adoration paid to Cap|tain Cook, it may not be unnecessary to describe the Morai, already mentioned, situated on the beach at Kakooa. It consisted of a square solid pile of stones, of the length of forty yards, the breadth of twenty, and the height of fourteen. The top of it was flat, and a wooden rail sur|rounded it, on which were displayed the skulls of those natives, who had been sacrificed on the death of their chiefs. A ruinous wooden build|ing was situated in the centre of the area, con|nected with the rail by a stone wall, dividing the whole space into two parts. Five poles of about twenty feet in height, supported an irregular kind of scaffold, on the side next the country; and,

on the side towards the sea, were too small houses, with a covered communication.

Koah conducted us to the top of this pile. At our entrance we beheld two large wooden images, with most distorted features, having a long piece of wood, proceeding from the top of their heads, of a conical form inverted; the other parts were covered with red cloth. Here Captain Cook was received by a tall young man, having a long beard, who presented him to the images, and chanted a kind of hymn, in which he was assisted by Koah. We were then led to the side of the Morai where the poles were erected; at the foot of which twelve images were ranged in the form of a semicircle; the middle figure having a high table before it like the Whatta of Otaheite, on which we saw a putrid hog, and under it some cocoa-nuts, plantains, potatoes, bread-fruit, and pieces of sugar-cane. The Commodore was con|ducted under this stand by Koah; who, taking down the hog, held it towards him: when, hav|ing again addressed him in a long and vehement speech, he suffered it to fall upon the ground, and ascended the scaffolding with him, though at the peril of their falling.

We now beheld, advancing in solemn proces|sion, and entering the top of the Morai, ten men bearing a live hog, and a piece of large red cloth of considerable dimensions. Advancing a few pa|ces, they stopped, and prostrated themselves; and

Kaireekeea, the tall young man already mention|ed approaching them, received the cloth, and carried it to Koah, who wrapped it round the Commodore, and made him an offering of the hog.

Captain Cook was now aloft, in a situation truly whimsical, swathed in red cloth, and hard|ly able to keep his hold in the rotten scaffolding. In this situation he was entertained with the chanting of Koah and Kaireekeea, sometimes in concert, and sometimes alternately. After this office was performed, which was of considerable duration, Koah let the hog drop, and he and the Commodore immediately descended. He then conducted him to the images just mentioned, to each of which he expressed himself in a sneering tone, snapping his fingers at them as he passed. He then presented him to that in the centre; which, from its being habited in red cloth ap|peared to be in the highest estimation. He fell prostrate before this figure, and kissed it, request|ing Captain Cook would do the same; which he readily submitted to, being determined to follow Koah's directions throughout the whole of this ceremony.

We were now conveyed into the other division of the Morai, where a space, of about twelve feet square, was sunk three feet below the level of the area. We descended into this, and the Commo|dore was immediately seated between two idols;

one of his arms being supported by Koah, and Mr. King was requested to support the other. A second procession of natives, at this time, arrived with a baked hog, a pudding, some cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, and other vegetables. As they drew near, Kaireekeea placed himself before them, and presented the hog to the Commodore, in the usual manner; chanting as before, and his companions making regular responses. Their speeches and responses, we observed, grew gradually shorter and shorter and, towards the conclusion, Kairee|keea's did not exceed three or four words, which was answered by the word orono.

At the conclusion of this offering, the natives seated themselves fronting us, and began to cut up the baked hog, to break the cocoa-nuts, and to peel the vegetables. Others were employed in brewing the ava, by chewing it in the same manner as at the Friendly Islands. Kaireekeea then chewed part of the kernel of a cocoa-nut, and wrapped it in a piece of cloth, with which he rubbed the Captain's head, face, hands, arms, and shoulders. The ava was afterwards handed round, and when we had all tasted it, Koah and Pareea pulled the flesh of the hog in pieces, and proceeded to put some of it into our mouths. Mr. King had no particular objection to being fed by Pareea, who was remarkably cleanly in his person; but Captain Cook, to whom a piece was presented by Koah, could not swallow a morsel,

the putrid hog being strong in his recollection; and as the old man, from motives of civility, had chewed it for him, his reluctance was much in|creased.

This ceremony being concluded, we quitted the Morai, after distributing among the populace some pieces of iron, and other articles, with which they were much delighted. We were then conducted in procession to the boats; the men, with wands, attending, and pronouncing senten|ces as before. Most of the natives again retired, and the remaining few prostrated themselves as we passed along the shore.

We went immediately on board, full of the idea of what we had seen, and perfectly satisfied with the honest dispositions of our new friends. Of the singularity and novelty of the various ceremonies performed upon this occasion, we can only form conjectures; but they were certainly, highly expressive of respect on the part of the inhabitants; and, as far as related to the Com|modore, they approached to adoration.

Mr. King went on shore, the next morning, with a guard of eight marines; having received orders to erect the observatory in a proper situa|tion; by which means the waterers, and other working parties, on shore, might be superintend|ed and protected. Observing a convenient spot for this purpose, almost in the centre of the vil|lage, Pareea immediately offered to exercise his

power in our behalf, and proposed that some houses should be taken down, that our observa|tions might not be obstructed. This generous offer, however, we declined, and we made choice of a potatoe field, adjoining to the Morai, which was granted us most readily; and to prevent the intrusion of the natives, the place was consecrated by the priests, by placing their wands round the walls which inclosed it.

This interdiction the natives call taboo, a term frequently repeated by these islanders, and seemed to be a word of extensive operation. In this in|stance, it procured us more privacy than we could have wished. No canoes attempted to land near us; the natives only sat on the wall, not daring to come within the tabooed space without obtain|ing our permission. The men, indeed, at our re|quest, would bring provisions into the field; but our utmost endeavours were ineffectual to induce the women to approach us. Presents were tried, but without success. Attempts were made to prevail on Pereea and Koah to bring them, but to no purpose; the Eatooa and Terreeoboo, they said, would kill them if they did.

This circumstance afforded great amusement to our friends on board, whither multitudes of people (particularly women) continually flocked; insomuch that they were frequently obliged to clear the vessel, in order to have room to per|form their necessary duties. Two or three hun|dred

women were sometimes obliged to jump, at once, into the water; where they continued to swim and play till they could be re-admitted.

Pareea and Koah left us on the 19th of Janua|ry, in order to attend Terreeoboo, who had landed on a distant part of the island; and no|thing material happened on board till the 24th. The caulkers were employed on the sides of the ships, and the rigging was repaired. The salting of hogs was also a principal object of the Com|modore's attention; and as we had improved in this operation since the former voyages, a detail of the process of it may not be thought improper.

To cure the flesh of animals, in tropical cli|mates, by salting, has long been thought imprac|ticable; putrefaction making so rapid a progress as not to allow the salt to take effect before the meat gets tainted. Captain Cook appears to be the first navigator who has attempted to make experiments relative to this business. His first attempts in 1774, in his second voyage to the Pacific Ocean, so far succeeded, as to convince him of the error of the general opinion. As his present voyage was likely to be protracted a year beyond the time that provisions had been sup|plied for the ships, he was obliged to contrive some method of procuring subsistence for the crews, or relinquish the prosecution of his dis|coveries. He, therefore, renewed his attempts,

and his most sanguine expectations were com|pletely answered.

The hogs we cured were of various sizes from four to ten or twelve stone, fourteen pound to the stone. They were always slaughtered in the after|noon; and, after scalding off the hair, and re|moving the entrails, the hog was cut into pieces, from four to eight pounds each, and the bones taken out of the legs and chine: in the larger sort, the ribs were also taken out. The pieces were then carefully examined and wiped, and the coagulated blood taken from the veins. After this they were given to the salters whilst they con|tinued warm, and, when they were well rubbed with salt, placed in a heap on a stage in the open air, covered with planks, and pressed with very heavy weights. The next evening they were again well wiped and examined, when the suspicious parts were taken away. This done, they were put into a tub of strong pickle, after which they were examined once or twice a day; and, if it happened that any piece had not taken the salt, which might be discovered by the smell of the pickle, they were instantly taken out and exa|mined again, the sound pieces being put into fresh pickle. This however, did not often hap|pen. At the end of six days they were examined for the last time; and, after being slightly pres|sed, they were put into barrels, having a thin layer of salt between them. Mr. King brought

home some barrels of this pork, that had been pickled at Owhyhee, in January 1779, which was tasted here, by several persons, about Christmas, 1780, who declared it to be perfectly sound and wholesome.

But to return from this digression. We had not been long settled at the observatory, before we discovered the habitation of a society of priests, who had excited our curiosity by their re|gular attendance on the morai. Their huts were erected round a pond, enclosed within a grove of cocoa-trees, by which they were seperated from the beach and the village, and gave the situation an air of religious retirement. Captain Cook being made acquainted with these circumstances, he was determined to visit them; and expecting the manner of his reception would be singular, he took Mr. Webber with him, to enable him to represent the ceremony in a drawing.

When he arrived at the beach, he was con|ducted to Harre-no-Orono, or the house of Orono. On his approaching this sacred place, he was seated at the foot of a wooden idol, resembling those which he had seen at the morai. Here Mr. King again supported one of his arms. He was then arrayed in red cloth, and Kaireekeea, assis••|ed by twelve priests, presented a pig with the usual solemnities. After this ceremony, the pig was strangled, and thrown into the embers of a fire, prepared for that purpose. When the hair

was signed off, a second offering was made, and the chanting repeated as before; after which, the dead pig was held, for some time, under Cap|tain Cook's nose; and then laid, with a cocoa-nut at his feet. This part of the ceremony be|ing concluded, the performers sat down; and the ava was brewed and handed about; a baked hog was brought in, and we were fed, as in the former ceremony.

While we continued on the bay, whenever the Commodore came on shore, he was preceded by one of these priests, who proclaimed the landing of the Orono, and ordered the inhabitants to pros|trate themselves. He was constantly attended by the same person, on the water, where he was sta|tioned in the bow of the boat, having a wand in his hand, to give notice of his approach to the natives, who where in canoes; on which they in|stantly ceased paddling, and fell on their faces till he had passed. Whenever he visited the ob|servatory. Kairkeereea and his assistants presented themselves before him, making an offering of hogs, bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, &c. with the ac|customed solemnities. Upon these occasions, some of the inferior chiefs entreated permission to make an offering to the Orono. If their re|quest was complied with, they presented the hog themselves; in the performance of which, their countenances displayed that they were greatly impressed with awe and terror. Kaireekeea, and

the priests assisted, and accompanied the ceremony with their accustomed hymns.

But their civilities extended beyond parade and ceremony; our party, on shore, were daily sup|plied by them with hogs and vegetables, sufficient for our subsistance, and to spare; and canoes, laden with provisions, were as regularly sent off to the ships. Nothing was demanded in return, nor was the most distant hint ever given that any com|pensation was expected. Their manner of con|ferring favours, appeared more like the discharge of a religious duty, than to result from mere libe|rality. On asking to whom we were indebted for all this munificence, we were informed, that it was at the expence of Kaoo, the chief priest, and grandfather to Kaireekeea, who was then in the suit of the sovereign of the island.

We had, indeed, less reason to be satisfied with the behaviour of the warrior chiefs, than with that of the priests. In our intercourse with the former, they were always sufficiently attentive to their own interests; and, besides their propensity to stealing, which may admit of palliation from its universality in these seas, they had other ar|tifices equally dishonourable. The following is one instance, in which we discovered, with re|gret, that our good friend Koah was a party prin|cipally concerned.

The chiefs, who made us presents of hogs, were always generously rewarded; in consequence

of which, we were supplied with more than we could consume. On these occasions Koah, who constantly attended us, usually petitioned for those that we did not absolutely want, and they were given to him of course. A pig was, one day, presented to us by a man whom Koah intro|duced as a chief; which we knew to be the pig that had, a short time before been given to Koah. Suspecting we had been imposed upon, we found, on further enquiry, that the pretended chief was one of the common people; and from other con|current circumstances, we were perfectly con|vinced that, in many instances, we had been the dupes of similar imposition.

On Sunday the 24th, we were now a little sur|prized to find, that no canoes were permitted to put off, and that the natives confined themselves to their houses. At length, however, we were in|formed, that the bay was tabooed, and that all in|tercourse with us was interdicted, oh account of the arrival of Terreeoboo their king. Not appre|hending an accident of this kind, the ships were deprived of their usual supply of vegetables.

On Monday the 25th, in the morning, we en|deavoured, by threats and promises, to induce the inhabitants to approach us. At length, some of them were venturing to put off, and a chief was observed to be very active in driving them away. In order to make him desist, a musquet was instantly fired over his head, which operated

as it was intended, and refreshments were soon after to be had as usual. In the afternoon, the ships were privately visited by Terreeoboo, at|tended only by one canoe, which had his wife and family on board. After staying till almost ten o'clock, he returned to the village of Kow|rowa.

About noon the next day, the king, in a large canoe, with some attendants in two others, pad|dled from the village, in great state, towards the ships. Their appearance was noble and mag|nificent. Terreeoboo, and his chiefs, were in the first canoe, arrayed in feathered cloaks and helmets, and armed with spears and daggers. In the second, came Kaoo, the chief priest, together with h••s brethern, having their idols displayed on red cloth. These idols were figures of an enormous size, made of wicker-work, and curi|ously ornamented with small feathers of a variety of colours. Their eyes were large pearl oysters, with a black nut placed in the centre; a double row of the fangs of dogs was fixed in each of their mouths, which, as well as the rest of their features appeared strangely distorted. The third canoe was laden with hogs and vegetables. As they advanced, the priests, in the secon canoe, chanted their hymns with great solemnity. Af|ter paddling round the vessels, they did not come on board, as we expected, but made immedi|ately

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TERREEOBOO. KING of OWHYHEE, bringing PRESENTS to CAPT. COOK.

towards the shore, at the beach where we were stationed.

When Mr. King beheld them approaching, he ordered our little guard to receive the king; and Captain Cook, seeing that he intended to go on shore, went thither also, and landed almost at the same instant. We ushered them into the tent, and the king had hardly been seated, when he rose up, and gracefully threw over the Cap|tain's shoulders, the rich feathered cloak that he himself wore, placed a helmet on his head, and presented him with a curious fan. Five or six other cloaks, of great beauty and value, were spread at the Commodore's feet.

Four hogs were then brought forward, by the king's attendants, together with bread-fruit, co|coa-nuts, and sugar-canes. Then followed the ceremony of Terreeoboo's changing names with Captain Cook; the strongest pledge of friend|ship among all the islanders of the Pacific Ocean. A solemn procession now advanced, consisting of priests, preceded by a venerable old personage, followed by a train of people leading large hogs; others being laden with potatoes, plantains, &c. We could instantly perceive, by the countenance and gestures of Kaireekeea, that the old man who headed the procession, was the chief priest, on whose bounty we were told we had so long sub|sisted. He wrapped a piece of red cloth round the shoulders of Captain Cook, and, in the usual

form presented him with a pig. He was then seated next the king, and Kaireekeea, and his at|tendants began their vocal ceremonies, Kaoo and the chiefs assisting in the responses.

In the person of this king, we were surprized to recognize the same emaciated old man, who came on board the Resolution, from the north-east side of the island of Mowee; and we per|ceived, that several of his attendants were the same persons, who, at that time, continued with us the whole night. Among these were the king's two youngest sons, the eldest about the age of sixteen; and Maiha-Maiha, his nephew, whom we could not immediately recollect, having had his hair plastered over with a dirty paste and pow|der, which was no bad improvement to the most savage countenance we had ever seen.

The formalities of the meeting being ended, Captain Cook conducted Terreeoboo, and seve|ral of his chiefs, on board the Resolution. They were received with every possible attention and respect; and the Commodore as a compensation for the feathered cloak, put a linen shirt upon the sovereign, and girt his own hanger round him. Kaoo, and about half a dozen other ancient chiefs, remained on shore.

All this time, not a canoe was permitted to appear in the bay, and those natives who did not confine themselves to their huts, lay prostrate on the ground. Before the king quitted the Reso|lution,

he granted leave for the natives to trade with the ships, as usual; but the women (we know not upon what account) were still interdict|ed by the taboo; that is, to remain at home, and not have any kind of intercourse with us.

CHAP. II.

The Civility and Hospitality of the Natives—Much addicted to thieving—Their Alacrity in conduct|ing a Party of us up the Country—A Boxing-Match described—Death of William Watman, a Seaman—Attention of the Priests at his Funeral—Ceremony of the Natives at his Funeral—A Grave-stone erected—The Rail and Images on the Morai purchased—The Natives very inquisitive about our Departure—What they supposed to be the Object of our Voyage—Entertained by the Buffoonery of one of the Natives—Magnificent Presents from Terreeoboo—The Natives regret our Departure—Wish to prevail on Mr. King to remain amongst them—The vessels quit the Island—The Resolution damaged in a Gale of Wind, and obliged to return.

THE behaviour of the inhabitants was so civil and inoffensive, that all apprehensions of danger were totally vanished. We trusted our|selves

amongst them at all times, and upon all occasions, without the least hesitation. The of|ficers ventured frequently up the country, either singly, or in small parties, and sometimes con|tinued out the whole night. To relate all the instances of generosity and civility, which we ex|perienced upon these occasions, would require volumes. In all places the people flocked about us, anxious to afford every assistance in their power, and appeared highly gratified if we con|descended to accept of their services. Variety of innocent arts were practised to attract our notice, or to delay our departure. The boys and girls ran through their villages before us, stopping us at every opening, where there was a commodious place to form a group for dancing. We were, at one time, solicited to take a draught of the milk of cocoa-nuts, or accept of such other refreshment as their huts afforded; at another we were en|circled by a company of young women, who ex|erted their skill and agility in amusing us with songs and dances.

But though their gentleness and hospitality were pleasing to us, they were addicted to steal|ing, like all the other islanders of these seas. This was a distressing circumstance, and sometimes obliged us to exercise severity, which we should have been happy to have avoided, if it had not been essentially necessary. Some expert swim|mers were one day detected under the ships, draw|ing

out the filling nails from the sheathing, which they ingeniously performed with a flint stone, fastened to the end of a short stick. This practice was so injurious to our vessels, that we fired small shot at the offenders; but that they easily evad|ed, by diving under the ships bottom, It there|fore became highly necessary to make an example of one of them, by flogging him on board the Discovery.

A large party of gentlemen, from both ships, set out, about this time, on an excursion into the country, in order to examine its natural pro|ductions; an account of which will be hereafter given. At present, however, we shall observe, that it afforded Kaoo a fresh opportunity of ex|ercising his civility and generosity. No sooner was he informed of their departure, than he sent after them a large quantity of provisions, with or|ders, that every attention and assistance should be granted them by the inhabitants of those districts through which they were to pass. His conduct, on this occasion, was so delicate and disinterested, that even the people he employed were not per|mitted to accept of the smallest present. At the end of six days, the gentlemen returned, without having penetrated more than twenty miles into the island; owing partly to improper guides, and partly to the impracticability of the country.

On the 27th, the Resolution's rudder was un|hung, and sent on shore, in order to undergo a

thorough repair. The carpenters at the same time, where sent into the country, under the guidance of some of Kaoo's people, to get planks for the head rail work, which was become rotten and decayed.

Captain Clerke, who was generally confined on board by ill health, paid Terreeoboo his first visit on the 28th, at his habitation on shore. The ceremonies observed with Captain Cook, were performed in honour of Captain Clerke; and, on his return, he received a present of thirty large hogs, and such a quantity of vegetables as could not be consumed, by his crew, in less than a week. This was the more extraordinary, as it was quite an unexpected visit.

Not having seen any of their sports or exercises, the natives, at our particular request, entertained us in the evening with a boxing match. Though these games were inferior, in every respect, to those we had seen exhibited at the Friendly Islands; yet, as they were somewhat different, a short account of them may not be thought impro|per.

A vast concourse of people assembled on an even spot of ground, not far distant from our tents. A long vacant space was left in the centre of them, at the upper end of which the judges pre|sided, under three standards. Slips of cloth, of various colours, were pendent from these stand|ards; as were the skins of two wild geese, some small birds, and a few bunches of feathers.

The sports being ready to begin, the judges gave the signal, and two combatants appeared in view. They advanced slowly, drawing up their feet very high behind and rubbing their hands upon the soles. As they came forward, they frequently surveyed each other from head to foot, with an air of contempt, looking archly at the spectators distorting their features, and practising a variety of unnatural gestures. When they were advanced within the reach of each other, they held both arms straight out before their faces, at which part they always aimed their blows. They struck with a full swing of the arm, which to us had a very awkward appearance. They did not attempt to parry; but endeavoured to elude their adversary's attack, by stopping, or retreating. The battle was expeditiously decided; for if either of them fell, whether by accident, or from a blow he was deemed vanquished; and the victor expressed his triumph by a variety of strange gestures, which usually excited a loud laugh a|mong the spectators, for which purpose it seemed to be calculated. The successful combatant waited for a second antagonist; and, if again victorious, for a third; and so on, till he was at last defeated.

It was very singular, in these combats, that when any two were preparing to attack each other, a third may advance, and make choice of either of them for his antagonist, when the other is un|der

the necessity of withdrawing. If the comba•• proved long and tedious, or appeared unequal, a chief generally interfered, and concluded it by putting a stick between the combatants. As this exhibition was at our desire, it was universally expected that some of us would have engaged with the natives; but, though our people re|ceived pressing invitations to bear a part, they did not hearken to the challenges, not having forgot the blows they received at the Friendly Islands.

William Whatman, a seaman of the gunner's crew, died this day; this event is more par|ticularly mentioned, as death had hitherto been uncommon amongst us. He was a man in years, and much respected for his attachment to Cap|tain Cook. He had served twenty-one years as a marine, and then entered as a seaman in 1772, on board the Resolution, and served with the Commodore in his voyage towards the south pole. On their return, he got admittance into Green|wich Hospital, through the interest of Captain Cook, at the same time with himself; and, anxi|ous to follow the fortunes of his benefactor, he also quitted it with him, on his appointment to the command of the present expedition. He had been often subject to slight fevers, in the course of the voyage, and was infirm when we arrived in the bay; where, having been sent for a few days on shore, he thought himself perfectly re|stored,

and requested to return on board. Hi•• request was complied with; but the day follow|ing he had a stroke of the palsy, which, in two days afterwards, put a period to his life.

At the request of Terreeoboo, the remains of this honest seaman were buried on the morai; the ceremony being performed with great solemnity. Kaoo and his brethren were present at the fune|ral, who behaved with great decorum, and paid due attention while the service was performing. On our beginning to fill up the grave, they ap|proached it with great awe, and threw in a dead pig, together with some cocoa-nuts and plan|tains. For three successive nights they surround|ed it, sacrificing hogs, and reciting hymns and prayers till morning.

We erected a post at the head of the grave, and nailed thereon a piece of board; on which was inscribed the name and age of the deceased, and the day of his departure from this life. These they assured us they would not remove, and they will probably be permitted to remain, so long as such frail materials can endure.

Our ships were much in want of fuel, there|fore Captain Cook desired Mr. King to treat with the priests for the purchase of the rail on the morai. Mr. King had his doubts about the de|cency of this overture, and apprehended that the bare mention of it might be deemed impious; but in this he was exceedingly mistaken. They

expressed no kind of surprize at the application, and the wood was delivered without the least sti|pulation. Whilst our people were taking it away, he saw one of them with a carved image; and, upon inquiry, was informed that the whole semi|circle (as mentioned in the description of the morai) had been carried to the boats.

Though the natives were spectators of this bu|siness, they did not seem to resent it; but, on the contrary, had even assisted in the removal. Mr. King thought proper to mention the parti|culars to Kaoo: who seemed exceedingly indif|ferent about the matter, begging him only to re|store the center image; which was immediately done, and it was conveyed to one of the priest's houses.

The king, and his chiefs, had, for some time, been very importunate to know the time of our departure. Mr. King's curiosity was excited, from this circumstance, to know the opinion these people had entertained of us, and what they sup|posed to be the objects of our voyage. He took considerable pains to satisfy himself on these points: but the only information he could get was, that they supposed we had left our native country on account of the scantiness of provisi|ons, and that we had visited them for the sole purpose of filling our bellies. This conclusion was natural enough, considering the meagre ap|pearance of some of our crew, the voracity with

which we devoured their fresh provisions, and our anxiety to purchase as much of it as we were able. One circumstance may be added to these, which puzzled them exceedingly; that of our having no women with us.

It was matter of entertainment to see the na|tives patting the bellies of the sailors (who were much improved in sleekness since their arrival at the bay) and telling them, in the best manner they could, that it was time for them to depart; but, if they would return the next bread-fruit season, they should be better able to supply them. We had now continued sixteen days in the bay, during which time our consumption of hogs and vegetables had been so enormous, that we need not be surprized at their wishing to see us take our leave. But Terreeoboo had, perhaps, no other view, in his enquiries, than a desire of hav|ing sufficient notice, to prepare suitable presents for us at our departure; for when we informed him of our intention to quit the island in two days, a kind of proclamation was immediately made, requiring the natives to bring in their hogs and vegetables, for Terreeoboo to present to the Orono.

At the beach, we were this day much enter|tained, with the buffooneries of one of the natives. In his hand he held an instrument of music, such as we have already described; bits of sea-weed were fastened round his neck; and, round each

leg, some strong netting; on which were fixed some rows of dogs teeth, hanging loose. His dancing was accompanied with strange grimaces, and unnatural distortions of the features: which, though sometimes highly ridiculous, was, upon the whole, without meaning or expression. Mr. Webber made a drawing of this person; the man|ner in which the maro is tied; the figure of the in|strument, and of the ornaments round the legs.

Wrestling and boxing matches afforded us di|version for the evening; and we, in return, exhi|bited the few fire-works we had remaining. No|thing could more effectually excite the admira|tion of these islanders, or strike them with more exalted ideas of our superioity, than such a re|presentation. Though this was, in every respect, much inferior to that at Hapaee, yet the astonish|ment of the people was equally great.

The carpenters which had been sent up the country, to cut planks for the head rail-work of the Resolution, had now been gone three days; and, not having heard from them, we began to be alarmed for their safety. We expressed our apprehensions to old Kaoo, who appeared equally concerned with ourselves; but while we were planning measures with him, for sending proper persons after them, they all safely arrived. They went farther into the country than they expected, before they found any trees suitable for their pur|pose. This circumstance, together with the bad|ness

of the roads, and the difficulty of conveying the timber to the ships, had so long detained them. They bestowed high commendations on their guides, who not only supplied them with provisions, but faithfully protected their tools.

The 4th of February being fixed for our de|parture, Terreeoboo invited Captain Cook and Mr. King, to attend him on the 3d, to Kaoo's residence. On our arrival there we saw large quantities of cloth lie scattered on the ground; abundance of red and yellow feathers, fastened to the fibres of cocoa-nut husks; and plenty of hatchets and iron ware, which had been received from us in barter. Not far from these was de|posited an immense quantity of various kinds of vegetables; and, at a little distance, a large herd of hogs. We supposed, at the first, that the whole was intended as a present for us; but we were informed by Kaireekeea, that it was a tribute to the king, from the inhabitants of that district. And, we were no sooner seated, than the bundles were brought, and laid severally at Terreeoboo's feet, and the cloth, feathers, and iron, were displayed before him.

The king was perfectly satisfied with this mark of duty from his people; and selected about a third of the iron utensils, a third of the feathers, and some pieces of cloth; he ordered these to be set aside by themselves; and the remainder of the cloth, hogs, vegetables, &c. were afterwards pre|sented

to Captain Cook and Mr. King. The value and magnitude of this present, far exceed|ed any thing that we had met with. The whole was immediately conveyed on board. The large hogs were selected, in order to be salted for sea store; but the smaller pigs, and the vegetables, were divided between the crews.

We left the morai, and got our observatories on board. The taboo was removed, and, with it, its magical effects. As soon as we had quit|ted the place, the people rushed in, and vigilantly searched; hoping to find some valuable articles left behind. Mr. King being the last on shore, and waiting for the return of the boat, the inha|bitants crowded about him, and having prevailed on him to sit down among them, expressed their regret at our seperation. It was even with dif|ficulty that they would suffer him to depart. He was, indeed, highly esteemed among them, as will appear from the following relation.

Having had, while we were in the bay, the command of the party on shore, he became more acquainted with the natives, and they with him, than those who were required to be on board. He experienced great kindness and civility from the inhabitants in general, but the friendship shewn by the priests was constant and unbounded.

He was anxious to conciliate their esteem: in which he so happily succeeded, that, when they were acquainted with the time of our departure,

he was urged to remain behind, and received overtures of the most flattering kind. When he endeavoured to excuse himself, by alledging, that Captain Cook would not permit it, they proposed to conduct him to the mountains, and there con|ceal him till the departure of the ships. On Mr. King's assuring them, that the Captain would not sail without him, the king and Kaoo repair|ed to Captain Cook, (whom they supposed to be his father) formally requesting that he might be suffered to remain behind. The Commodore, unwilling to give a positive refusal, to a proposal so generously intended, assured them, that he could not then part with him; but he should re|turn thither the next year, when he would in|deavour to oblige them.

On Thursday the 4th of February, early in the morning, we unmoored, and the Resolution and Discovery sailed out of the bay; attended by a vast number of canoes. It was Captain Cook's intention to finish the survey of Owhyhee, before he went to the other islands, hoping to meet with a road more sheltered than Karakakooa Bay; and, if he should not succeed here, he meant to examine the south-east part of Mowee, where he had been informed, there was a most excellent harbour.

On the 5th, and the following, day, we had calm weather, and consequently our progress was but slow. A great number of the natives fol|lowed

us in their canoes; and Terreeoboo gave an additional proof of his esteem for the Commo|dore, by sending after him a large present of hogs and vegetables.

Having a little breeze, in the night of the 5th of February, we made some progress to the north|ward; and on the 6th, in the morning, we were abreast of a deep bay, which the natives call Toe-yah-yah. We flattered ourselves with hopes of finding a commodious harbour in this bay, as we saw some fine streams of water to the north-east; and the whole appeared to be well shelter|ed. These observations seeming to tally with the accounts given us by Koah, who now accompa|nied Captain Cook, the Master was sent in the pinnace, with Koah as his guide, to observe and examine the bay; Koah having first altered his name, out of compliment to us, to that of Bri|tannee.

The weather became gloomy in the afternoon, and such violent gusts of wind blew off the land, that we were obliged to take in all the sails, and bring too, under the mizen-stay-sail. The canoes all left us as soon as the gale began; and Mr. Bligh, on his return, preserved an old woman and two men from drowning, whose canoes had been overset in the storm. We had several wo|men remaining on board, whom the natives, in their hurry to depart, had left to shift for them|selves.

Mr. Bligh reported, that he had landed at a village on the north side of the bay, where he was shewn some wells of water, that would not, by any means, answer our purpose; that he pro|ceeded further into the bay; where, instead of meeting with good anchorage, he found the shores were low, and a flat bed of coral rocks extended a long the coast▪ and upwards of a mile from the land; the depth of water, on the outside, being twenty fathoms. During this survey, Britannee had contrived to slip away, being, perhaps, afraid of returning, as his information had proved erroneous.

The weather became more moderate in the evening, and we again made sail; but it blew so violently about midnight, as to split the fore and main-top-sails. We bent fresh sails in the morn|ing of the 7th, and had a light breeze, and fair weather. Being now about four or five leagues from the shore, and the weather very unsettled, the canoes would not venture off, so that our guests were under the necessity of remaining with us, though much against their inclination; for they were all exceedingly sea-sick, and many of them had left their infants on shore.

Though the weather continued squally, we stood in for the land in the afternoon; and, being within three leagues of it, we saw two men in a canoe, paddling towards us. We naturally con|jectured that they had been driven off the shore,

by the late violent gale; and stopped the ship's way, in order to take them in. They were so ex|hausted with fatigue, that had not one of the na|tives on board jumped into the canoe to their assistance, they would hardly have been able to fix it to the rope thrown out for that purpose. With difficulty, however, we got them up the ship's side, together with a child about four years of age, which had been lashed under the thwarts of the canoe with only its head above the water. They informed us, that they had quitted the land the morning before, since which time they had not had food or water. Provision was given them with the usual precautions, and the child entrusted to the care of one of the women; and, the next morning, they were all perfectly reco|vered.

A gale of wind coming on at midnight, we were obliged to double reef the top-sails. At day-break, on the 8th, we found that the fore|mast had again given way; the fishes being sprung and the parts so very defective, as to make it abso|lutely necessary to unstep the mast. Captain Cook, for some time, hesitated, whether he should return to Karakakooa, or take the chance of finding a harbour in the islands to leeward. The bay was not so commodious, but that a bet|ter might probably be met with, either for re|pairing the masts, or procuring refreshment, the latter of which, it was imagined, the neigh|bourhood

of Karakakooa had lately been pretty well drained of. It was, on the other hand, considered as an unprudent step, to leave a to|lerable good harbour, which once lost, could not be regained, for the mere possibility of meet|ing with a better, especially as the failure of such a contingency might have deprived us of any resource.

We stood on towards the land, to give the natives on shore an opportunity of releasing their friends on board; and about noon, when we were within a mile of the shore, several canoes came off to us, but so loaded with people, that no room could be found for any of our guests; the pinnace was therefore hoisted out to land them; and the master who commanded it, was instructed to examine the south coasts of the bay for water, but returned without success.

Variable winds, and a strong current to the northward, retarded our progress in our return; and, in the evening of the 9th, about eight o'clock, it blew very hard from the south-east, which occasioned us to close reef the top-sails. Early in the morning of the 10th, in a heavy squall, we found ourselves close in with the breakers, to the northward of the west point of Owhyhee. We had just room to avoid them, and fired several guns to alarm the Discovery, and apprize her of the danger.

The weather, in the forenoon, was more mo|derate, and a few canoes ventured to come off to us, when those on board them informed us, that much mischief had been occasioned by the late storms, and that a great many canoes had been lost. We kept beating to windward the remainder of the day; and, in the evening, were within a mile of the bay; but we stood off and on till day-light the next morning, when we anchored in our old station.

CHAP. III.

The Behaviour of the Islanders, on our Return to Karakakooa Bay, somewhat mysterious—A Theft committed on board the Discovery—The Thieves pursued up the Country by Captain Cook and Mr. King—Scuffle between the Natives and our Peo|ple, in which Pareea receives a severe Blow— The Pinnace attacked and plundered—Crew obliged to quit her—Captain Cook's Reflections on the Occasion—Attempt at the Observatory—The Discovery's Cutter stolen from the Buoy—Steps tak••n for its Recovery—Captain Cook goes on Shore to invite the King and his two Sons on board—His Wife and the Chiefs oppose his going—A Contest arises on the occasion—Intelligence arrives of one of the Chiefs being killed by one of our People—The Consequences—A Chief threat|ens Captain Cook and is shot by him—A general Attack ensues—Death of Captain Cook—Account of his Services, and a Sketch of his Character.

THE whole of the 11th, and part of the 12th of February, we were engaged in getting out the foremast, and conveying it on shore. Not only the head of the mast had sustain|ed damage, but the heel was become exceedingly rotten, having a very large hole in the middle of it. Several days being probably required to make

the necessary repairs, Messieurs King and Baily got the observatory on shore, and pitched their tents on the morai, guarded by a corporal, and six marines. A friendly intercourse was renewed with the priests, who, for our greater security, tabooed the place with their wands as before. The sail-makers also repaired to the shore to re|pair the damages, in their department, sustained by the late heavy gales. They occupied an habi|tation, lent us by the priests, adjoining to the morai.

Our reception, on coming to anchor, was so different from what it had been upon our first arrival, that we were all astonished: no shouts, bustle, or confusion, but a solitary deserted bay, with hardly a canoe stiring. Their curiosity, indeed, might be supposed to be diminished by this time; but the hospitable treatment we had continually been favoured with, and the friendly footing on which we parted, induced us to expect that, on our return, they would have received us with the greatest demonstrations of joy.

Various were our conjectures on the cause of this extraordinary appearance, when the whole mys|tery was unravelled by the return of a boat, which we had sent on shore, bringing intelligence that Terreeoboo was absent, and that the bay was taboo|ed. This account appeared very satisfactory to ma|ny of us; but others were of opinion, that there was at this time, something very suspicious in the

behaviour of the natives; and that the taboo, or interdiction, on pretence of Terreeoboo's ab|sence, was artfully contrived, to give him time to consult his chiefs in what manner we should be treated. We never could ascertain whether these suspicions were well founded, or whether the natives had given a true account. It is probable, indeed, that our sudden return, for which they could assign no apparent cause, might create a|larms in them; yet the conduct of Terreeoboo, who, on his supposed arrival the next morning, immediately waited on Captain Cook; and the natives, from that moment, renewing their friendly intercourse with us, seem to evince that they neither meant, nor apprehended, a different kind of conduct.

An account of another accident, similar to this, may be mentioned in support of this opinion, which happened to us on our first visit, the day before the king's arrival. A native having sold a hog on board the Resolution, and received the price agreed on, Pareea, who saw the transaction, advised the seller not to part with his hog, without an advanced price. For his interference in this business, he was harshly spoken to, and pushed away; and as the taboo was soon laid on the bay, we, at first, supposed it to be in consequence of the affront offered to the chief.

These two circumstances considered, it is ex|tremely difficult to draw any certain conclusion

from the action of a people, with whose language and customs we are so imperfectly acquainted. Some idea, however, may be formed of the diffi|culties those have to encounter, who in their intercourse with these strangers, are obliged to steer their course in the midst of uncertainty, where the most serious consequences may be oc|casioned by only imaginary offences. Whether these conjectures are erroneous or true, it is cer|tain that things were conducted in their usual quiet course, till the 13th of February, in the afternoon.

At the approach of evening on that day, the commander of the Discovery's watering party, came to inform Mr. King, that several chiefs were assembled near the b••ach, and were driving away the natives, who assisted the sailors in rolling the casks to the shore: at the same time declaring, that their behaviour seemed exceedingly suspici|ous, and that he imagined they would give him some farther disturbance. He sent a marine with him, agreeably to his request, but permitted him to take only his side-arms. The officer, in a short time, returned, and informed Mr. King that the inhabitants had armed themselves with stones, and were become tumultuous. He there|fore went himself to the spot, attended by a ma|rine, with his musket. At their approach the islanders threw away their stones, and, on Mr. King's application to some of the chiefs, the

mob was dispersed. Every thing being now quiet, Mr. King went to meet Captain Cook, who was then coming on shore in the pinnace. He related to him what had recently happened, and received orders to fire a ball at the offenders, if they again behaved insolently, and began to throw stones. In consequence of these directions, Mr. King gave orders to the corporal, that the sentinels pieces should be loaded with ball, in|stead of shot.

On our return to the tents, we heard a con|tinued fire of musquets from the Discovery; which we perceived to be directed at a canoe, which was hastening towards the shore, with one of our small boats in pursuit of it. This firing, we concluded, was the consequence of some theft, and Captain Cook ordered Mr. King to follow him with a marine armed, and to endea|vour to seize the people as they landed. They accordingly ran to the place, where the canoe was expected to come ashore, but did not arrive in time; the people having quitted it, and fled into the country before their arrival.

At this time they did not know that the goods had been already restored; and thinking it pro|bable, from what they had observed, that they might be of importance, they did not choose to relinquish their endeavours to recover them; and having inquired of the natives what course the people had taken, they pursued them till it was

almost dark, when they supposed themselves to be about three miles from the tents; and, think|ing the islanders amused them with false informa|tion in their pursuit, they gave up the search and returned.

A difference of a more serious nature had hap|pened during their absence. The officer, who had been dispatched in the small boat after the thieves, and who was returning on board, with the booty that had been restored, seeing Captain Cook and Mr. King engaged in the pursuit of the offenders, seized a canoe, which was drawn upon the shore. This canoe unfortunately be|longed to Pareea, who, at that instant arriving from on board of the Discovery, claimed his pro|perty and protested his innocence. The officer persisted in detaining it, in which he was en|couraged by the crew of the pinnace, then wait|ing for Captain Cook; in consequence of which a scuffle ensued, and Pareea was knocked down by a violent blow on the head, with an oar. Several of the natives, who had hitherto been peaceable spectators, began now to attack our people with such a shower of stones, that they were forced to a precipitate retreat, and swam off to a rock, at a considerable distance from the shore. The pinnace was plundered immediately by the natives, and would have been entirely demolished, if Pareea had not interposed; who had not only recovered from his blow, but had

also forgot it at the same instant. He ordered the crowd to disperse, and beckoned to our peo|ple to come and take possession of the pinnace; and afterwards assured them that he would use his influence to get the things restored ••••••ch had been taken out of it. After their ••••parture, he followed them in his canoe, carrying them a mid|shipman's cap, and some other articles of the plunder; and, expressing much conce•••• at what had happened, begged to know if the 〈◊〉〈◊〉 would kill him, and whether he might be permitted to come on board the next day? He was assured that he would be well received, and therefore joined noses with the officers (their usual token of friendship) and paddled over to Kowrowa.

Captain Cook, when these particulars were re|presented to him, was exceedingly concerned; and, when he and Mr. King were returning on board, he expressed his fears that these islanders would oblige him to pursue violent measures; adding they must not be permitted to suppose, that they have gained any advantage over us. It was then, however, too late to take any steps that evening; he therefore only gave orders that every islander should be immediately turned out of the ship. This order being executed, Mr. King returned on shore; and the events of the day having much abated our former confidence in the natives, a double guard was posted on the morai, with orders to let Mr. King know, if any

men were seen lurking about the beach. At eleven o'clock, five of the natives were seen creep|ing round the bottom of the morai; they ap|proached with great caution, and, at last, per|ceiving they were discovered, immediately re|tired out of sight. About midnight one of them ventured himself near the observatory, when a sentinel fired over him; on which they all fled, and we had no farther disturbance during the re|mainder of the night.

At day-light the next morning Mr. King went on board the Resolution, in order to get the time|keeper; and in his way thither was hailed by the Discovery, and received information that their cutter, had some time in the night been stolen, from the buoy, where it had been moored.

On Mr. King's arrival on board, he found the marines were arming themselves, and Captain Cook busied in loading his double-barrelled gun. Whilst he was acquaintng him with what had happened in the night at the morai, he eagerly interrupted him, and informed him of the loss of the Discovery's cutter, and the preparations he was making to recover it. It was his usual prac|tice in all the islands of this ocean, when any thing of consequence had been stolen from him, by some stratagem, to get the king, or some of the prin|cipal Erees, on board; where he detained them as hostages, till the property was restored. This method having hitherto proved successful, he

meant to adopt on the present occasion; and gave orders to stop every canoe that should attempt to leave the bay; resolving to seize and destroy them if the ••utter could not be recovered by peaceable means. In pursuance of which, the boats of both ships, properly manned and armed, were station|ed across the bay; and before Mr. King quitted the ship, some great guns were fired at two canoes, that were attempting to escape.

Between seven and eight o'clock Captain Cook and Mr. King quitted the ship together; the former in the pinnace, with Mr. Phillips, and nine marines; and the latter in the small boat. The last orders Mr. King received from Captain Cook were to quiet the minds of the people, on our side of the bay, by the strongest assurances that they should not be injured; to keep his people together, and to be continually on his guard. Captain Cook and Mr. King then sepa|rated; the Captain going towards Kowrowa, where Terreeoboo resided, and Mr. King proceed|ed to the beach: his first business, when he arrived on shore, was to issue strict orders to the marines to continue within the tent, to charge their mus|quets with ball, and not on any consideration, to quit their arms. He then attended old Kaoo and the priests at their respective huts, and explained to them, as well as he was able, the reason of the hostile preparations, which had so exceedingly alarmed them. He found they were no strangers

to the circumstance of the cutter's being stolen, and assured them, that though the Commodore was not only resolved to recover it, but also to punish, in the most exemplary manner, the au|thors of the theft; yet that they, and all the in|habitants of the village, on our side, had not the least occasion to be alarmed, or to apprehend the least danger from us. He importuned the priests to communicate this to the people, and intreat them not to entertain an idea of fear, but to con|tinue peaceable and quiet. Kaoo interrogated Mr. King, with great emotion, if any harm was to happen to Terreeoboo? He assured him there was not; and both he and his brethren appeared much satisfied with this assurance.

Captain Cook having, in the mean time, called off the launch, from the north point of the bay, and taken it with him, landed at Kowrowa, with tile lieutenant and nine marines. He proceeded immediately into the village, where he was re|spectfully received; the people, as usual, pro|strating themselves before him, and making their accustomed offerings of small hogs. Perceiving that his design was not suspected, his next step was, to inquire for the king, and the two boys, his sons, who had been almost continually his guests on board the Resolution. The boys pre|sently returned with the natives, who had been searching for them, and immediately conducted Captain Cook to the habitation where Terreeoboo

had slept. The old man had just awoke; and after some conversation respecting the loss of the cutter, from which the Commodore was con|vinced that he was not in any wise privy to it, he invited him to accompany him, and spend the day on board the Resolution. The king accept|ed the invitation, and rose immediately to ac|company him.

Every thing had now a prosperous appearance; the two boys were already in the pinnace, and the rest of the party approaching the water side, when a woman, named Kanee-kabareea the mother of the boys, and one of Terreeoboo's favourite wives, followed him, beseeching him, with tears and entreaties, not to venture to go on board. Two chiefs, who came with her, took hold of him, and insisted he should proceed no farther, obliged him to sit down. The islanders, now collecting in vast numbers along the shore, who had probably been alarmed by the discharging of the great guns, and the hostile appearances in the bay, gathered together round Captain Cook and Ter|reeoboo. Thus situated, the lieutenant of ma|rine, perceiving that his men were huddled to|gether in the croud, and consequently unable to use their arms, if there should appear to be a necessity for it▪ proposed to Captain Cook, to draw them up along the rocks, close to the edge of the water. The populace making way for them to pass, the lieutenant drew them up in a

line; within about thirty yards of the place where Terreeoboo was sitting,

The old king continued, all this time, on the ground, bearing the most visible marks of terror and dejection in his countenance. Captain Cook, unwilling to abandon the object which occasioned him to come on shore, urged him most earnestly to proceed: whilst, on the other hand, if the king expressed any inclination to follow him, the chiefs who surrounded him, interposed; at first they had recourse to prayers and entreaties, but after|wards to force and violence, and even insisted on his remaining on shore. Captain Cook, at length, perceiving that the alarm had spread too gene|rally, and that there was not a probability of getting him off without much bloodshed, gave up the point; at the same time observing, to Mr. Phillips, that to compel him to go on board, would probably occasion the loss of many of the lives of the inhabitants.

Notwithstanding this enterprize had now fail|ed, and was abandoned by Captain Cook, yet it did not appear that his person was in the least degree of danger, till an accident happened, which occasioned a fatal turn to the affair. The boats, stationed across the bay, having fired at some canoes, for attempting to get out, unfor|tunately had killed one of their principal chiefs. Intelligence of his death arrived at the village where Captain Cook then was, just as he had

parted from the king, and was proceeding with great deliberation towards the shore. The fer|ment it immediately occasioned, was but too con|spicuous; the women and children were instantly sent away, and the men were soon clad in their war-mats, and armed with spears and stones. One of the natives having provided himself with a stone, and a long iron spike (called by the na|tives a pahooa) advanced towards the Captain, flourishing his weapon in defiance, and threaten|ing to throw the stone. The Captain requested him to desist; the islander repeated his me|nace, he was highly provoked, and fired a load of small shot at him. The man was shielded in his war-mat, which the shot could not penetrate; his firing therefore, served only to irritate and encourage them. Vollies of stones were thrown at the marines; and one of the erees attempted the life of Mr. Phillips with his pahooa; but, not succeeding in the attempt, he received from him a blow with the butt end of his piece. Cap|tain Cook immediately discharged his second bar|rel, loaded with ball, and killed one of the most violent of the assailants. A general attack with stones succeeded, which was followed on our part, by a discharge of musquetry, not only from the marines, but also from the people in the boats. The natives, to our great astonishment, received our fire with great firmness; and with|out giving time for the marines to charge again,

they rushed in upon them with dreadful shouts and yells. What followed was a scene of horror and confusion, which can more easily be conceived than properly related.* 1.3

Four of the marines retreated among the rocks, and fell a sacrifice to the fury of the ene|my; three others were dangerously wounded; and the lieutenant stabbed between the shoulders with a pahooa; but having fortunately reserved his fire, shot the man from whom he had received the wound, at the instant he was preparing to repeat his blow. The last time our unfortunate Commodore was distinctly seen, he was standing at the water's edge, and ordering the boats to cease firing and pull in.

It was imagined by some of those who were present, that the marines, and those who were in the boats, fired without Captain Cook's orders, and that he was anxious to prevent the farther effusion of blood; it is therefore probable, that, on this occasion, his humanity proved fatal to him: for it was observed, that while he faced the natives, no violence had been offered him, but, when he turned about, to give directions to

[figure]

THE DEATH of CAPTAIN JAMES COOK, F.R.S. at OWHYHEE in MDCCLXXIX.

the boats, he was stabbed in the back, and fell with his face into the water. A general shout was set up by the islanders on seeing him fall, and his body was dragged inhumanly on shore, where he was surrounded by the enemy, who snatching the dagger from each other's hands, displayed a sa|vage eagerness to join in his destruction.

Such was the fa••e of our most excellent Com|mander! After a life, distinguished by such suc|cessful enterprize, his death can hardly be reck|oned premature; since he lived to accomplish the great work for which he seemed particularly designed; being rather removed from the enjoy|ment, than the acquisition of glory. How sin|cerely his loss was lamented, by those who owed their security to his skill and conduct, and every consolation, to his tenderness and humanity, it is impossible to describe; and the task would be equally difficult to represent the horror, dejection, and dismay, which followed so dreadful and un|expected a catastrophe. Let us, therefore, turn from so calamitous a scene, to the pleasing con|templation of his character and virtues, and pay our last just tribute to the memory of this wor|thy man, in a short history of his life, and public services.

Captain James Cook was born in the year 1727, near Whitby, in Yorkshire; and at an early age, commenced an apprenticeship to a shop|keeper in a neighbouring village. This not be|ing

suitable to his natural propensity, he soon quitted the counter, and contracted for nine years, with the master of a vessel in the coal trade. In 1755, at the commencement of the war, he entered into the king's service on board the Eagle, then Commanded by Captain Hamer, and afterwards by Sir Hugh Palliser, who per|ceiving his merit, advanced him to the quarter deck.

In 1758, we find him master of the Northum|berland, Lord Colville's flag ship, who then commanded the squadron, stationed on the coast of America. Here, as he has frequently declar|ed, he first read Euclid, and closely applied him|self to the study of the mathematics, with the assistance of only a few books, and his own indus|try. While he thus found means to cultivate his understanding, and supply, in some degree, the deficiencies of an early education, he was engaged in most of the active scenes of war in America. At the siege of Quebec, he was intrusted by Sir Charles Saunders with the execution of important services, in the naval department. He was the pilot who conducted the boats to the attack of Montmorency; managed the embarkation to the heights of Abraham; and pointed out, by buoys, how the large ships might proceed with security up the river. The manner in which he acquitted himself in these important services, procured him the esteem and friendship of Sir Charles Saunders

and Lord Colville, who continued his zealous patrons during the remainder of their lives. At the conclusion of the war, he was appointed, through the interest of Lord Colville and Sir Hugh Palliser, to make a survey of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and the coasts of Newfoundland. He was thus employed till the year 1767, when Sir Edward Hawke appointed him to the com|mand of an expedition to the South Seas; in or|der to make an observation of the transit of Venus, and to prosecute discoveries in that part of the globe.

His services, since this period, are too gene|rally known to require enumeration. His repu|tation has proportionably advanced beyond the effect of panegyric. He seems, indeed, to have been peculiarly qualified for this species of enter|prize. His natural inclination, the nature of his services, and indefatigable application, all con|spired to compleat him for it: so that he acquir|ed such a degree of professional knowledge, as can fall to the lot of very few.

His frame and constitution were robust, and such as enabled him to undergo the severest hardships. When necessity required it, he could feed, with satisfaction, upon the coarsest and most ungrate|ful food; and he submitted to every kind of self-denial with the greatest composure and indiffe|rence. Nor were the qualities of his mind less vi|gorous than those of his body. His understand|ing

was strong and perspicuous: his judgment, especially in those matters in which he was more particularly engaged, quick and sure. His de|signs and operations, were the natural result of a great original genius. His valour was cool, deliberate, and determined; accompanied with a most astonishing presence of mind on the ap|proach of danger. His manners were plain, easy, and unaffected. His temper, it must be admitted, was too much subject to hastiness and passion; but this should be forgotten, when it is consider|ed, that this disposition was the most benevolent and humane.

These are a few traits or outlines of the charac|ter of Captain Cook; but its distinguishing fea|ture was, the most unremitting perseverance to accomplish his design, in opposition to dangers, difficulties and hardships. During all his long and tedious voyages, his eagerness and activity were never in the least abated. No alluring in|citement could detain him for a moment; even those intervals of recreation, which unavoidably occured in the course of our services, and were joyfully embraced by many of his officers, were submitted to, by him with impatience, if they could not be made subservient to the more effec|tual prosecution of his designs.

It would be unnecessary to recapitulate the in|stances in which these qualities were displayed. The result of his services, however, we shall just

touch upon, under two principal heads, viz. geo|graphy and navigation, placing each in a separate and distinct point of view.

No science, it is presumed, has ever received greater additions from the labours of one man, than geography has done from those of Captain Cook. In his first voyage, he discovered the Society Islands; ascertained the insularity of New Zealand; and discovered the straits which separate the two islands, and are called after his name. He explored the eastern coast of New Holland, till then unknown; an extent of twenty-seven degrees of latitude, and upwards of two thousand miles.

He gave, in his second expedition, a resolu|tion to the great problem of a southern conti|nent; having so completely traversed that hemi|sphere, as not to leave a possibility of its exist|ence, unless it is so near the pole, as to be be|yond the reach of navigation. New Caledonia, the largest island in the Southern Pacific, except New Zealand, was discovered in this voyage. Also the island of Georgia; and an unknown coast, which the Captain named Sandwich land; and having twice visited the tropical seas, he set|tled the situations of the old, and made several new discoveries.

His third and last voyage, however, is distin|guished above the rest, by the extent and im|portance of its discoveries. Not to mention the

several smaller islands in the Southern Pacific, he discovered the group, called the Sandwich islands; which, on account of their situation and produc|tions, may perhaps become an object of more co••••equence than any other discovery in the South Sea. He explored what had before re|mained unknown of the western coast of Ame|rica, an extent of three thousand seven, hundred miles; ascertained the proximity of the two con|tinents of Asia and America; sailed through the straits between them, and surveyed the coasts on each side, so far as to be satisfied of the imprac|ticability of a passage in that hemisphere, from the Atlantic into the Pacific Ocean, by an east|ern or western course. He has, in short, com|pleated the hydrography of the habitable globe, if we except the Japanese Archipelago, and the sea of Amur, which are still imperfectly known by Europeans.

His services, as a navigator, are not less im|portant and meritorious. The method which he invented, and so successfully put in practice, of preserving the health (and consequently the lives) of seamen, will transmit his name to future ages, as a friend and benefactor to mankind.

It is well known among those who are con|versant in naval history, that the advantages which have been sought, through the medium of long sea-voyages, have always been purchased at a dear rate. That dreadful disorder which is

pecullar to this servire, must, without exercising an unwarrantable degree of tyranny over our seamen, have been an insuperable obstacle to our enterprizes. It was reserved for Captain Cook to convince the world, that voyages might be pro|tracted to three or even four years, in unknown regions, and under every change of climate, without affecting the health in the smallest de|gree, and even without diminishing the probabi|lity of life. His method has been fully explain|ed, in a paper which was read before the Royal Society, in 1776 * 1.4.

Respecting his professional abilities, they must be submitted to the judgment of those who are acquainted with the services in which he was en|gaged. They cannot but acknowledge, that to have conducted three such dangerous and diffi|cult expeditions, of so unusual a length, with invariable success, must not only have required an accurate knowledge of his business, but also a most powerful and comprehensive genius.

Having thus given a faithful, though a con|cise account of the death of our much lamented Commander, and also of his character and ser|vices, his memory must now be lest to the gra|titude and the admiration of posterity.

CHAP. IV.

Transactions at Owhyhee, subsequent to the death of Captain Cook—Bravery of Mr. Phillips—The Islanders forced to retire—Situation of our Par|ty at the Morai—The natives annoy them with stones—Attempts to storm the Morai—A short Truce—Our People quit the Morai—Pacific Measures determined on—Mr. King sent to obtain a Conference with some of the Chiefs—His Inter|view with Koah—Contemptuous Behaviour of the Natives—Precaution taken by us—Two of the Islanders, in a Canoe, fired at, but not hurt—A Piece of Captain Cook's Flesh brought us by one of them—Further Provocations from the Natives—Some great Guns fired at them—Our Watering Party harrassed with stones—The Village of Ka|koa burned by our People—••ravery of one of the Natives—A Procession, headed by Kaireekeea, who comes on board the Resolution—The Bones of Captain Cook brought to us—They are committed to the Deep—The Ships leave Karakakooa Bay.

WE have before observed that four of the marines, who accompanied Captain Cook, were killed by the natives on the spot. The others, with their lieutenant, Mr. Phillips, threw themselves into the sea, and made their escape, being protected by a smart fire from the boats.

On this occasion, a striking instance of gallant behaviour, and of affection for his men, was dis|played by Mr. Phillips; for he had scarcely got into the boat, when seeing one of the marines, who was not a very expert swimmer, struggling in the water, and in danger of being taken by the islanders, he instantly leaped into the sea to his assistance, though considerably wounded himself; and after receiving a blow on his head from a stone, which had almost sent him to the bottom, he caught the marine by the hair, and brought him off in safety. Our people for some time kept up a constant fire from the boats (which during the whole transaction, were at no greater distance from the land than twenty yards), in order to af|ford their unfortunate companions, if any of them should still remain alive, an opportunity of ef|fecting their escape. These continued efforts, seconded by a few guns, that were at the same time fired from the Resolution, having at length compelled the enemy to retire, a small boat, manned by five midshipmen, pulled towards the shore where they perceived the bodies lying on the ground, without any signs of life. However, they judged it dangerous to attempt to bring them off with so inconsiderable a force; and their ammunition being nearly consumed, they re|turned to the ships, leaving the bodies in pos|session of the natives, together with ten stand of arms.

When the general consternation, which the news of this misfortune had diffused throughout the whole company of both ships, had in some degree subsided, their attention was called to the party of the morai, where the mast and sails were on shore, guarded by only six marines. It is dif|ficult to describe the emotions that agitated the minds of Mr. King and his attendants, at this station, during the time in which these occur|rences had happened, at the other side of the bay. Being at the distance only of a mile from the vil|lage of Kowrowa, they could distinctly perceive a vast multitude of people collected on the spot where Captain Cook had just before landed. They heard the firing of the musquets, and observed an uncommon bustle and agitation among the crowd. They afterwards saw the islanders re|treating, the boats retiring from the shore, and passing and repassing, with great stillness be|tween the ships. Mr. King's heart soon misgave him on this occasion. Where so valuable a life was concerned, he could not avoid being alarm|ed by such new and threatening appearances. Besides this, he knew that Captain Cook, from a long series of success, in his transactions with the natives of this ocean, had acquired a degree of confidence, which might, in some ill-fated mo|ment, put him too much off his guard; and Mr. King now saw all the dangers to which that confi|dence might lead, without deriving much con|solation

from the consideration of the experience which had given rise to it. His first care, on hearing the report of the musquets, was to assure the islanders, considerable numbers of whom were assembled round the wall of our consecrated field, and seemed at a loss how to account for what they had heard and seen, that they should meet with no molestation; and that, at all events, he was in|clined to continue on peaceable terms with them.

Mr. King and his attendants remained in this situation, till the boats had returned on board, when Captain Clerke perceiving, by means of his telescope, that our party was surrounded by the natives, who, he thought, designed to attack them, ordered two four-pounders to be fired at the islanders. These guns, though well aimed, did no mischief; but they gave the natives a con|vincing proof of their powerful effects. A cocoa-nut-tree, under which some of them were sitting, was broken in the middle by one of the balls; and the other shivered a rock, which stood in an exact line with them. As Mr. King had, just before, given them the strongest assurances of their safety, he was extremely mortified at this act of hostility, and, to prevent its being repeat|ed, instantly dispatched a boat to inform Captain Clerke, that he was, at present, on the most amicable terms with the islanders, and that, if any future occasion should arise for changing his conduct towards them, he would hoist a jack, as

a signal for Captain Clerke to afford him his as|sistance.

Mr King waited the return of the boat with the greatest impatience; and after remaining for the space of a quarter of an hour, under the ut|most anxiety and suspence, his fears were at length confirmed, by the arrivel of Mr. Bligh, with or|ders to strike the tents immediately, and to send on board the sails, that were repairing. At the same instant, Kaireekeea having also received in|formation of the death of Captain Cook, from a native who had arrived from the other side of the bay, approached Mr. King, with great dejection and sorrow in his countenance, inquiring whether it was true.

The situation of the party, at this time, was highly critical and important. Not only their own lives, but the issue of the expedition, and the return of at least one of the ships, were in|volved in the same common danger. They had the mast of the Resolution, and the greater part of the sails, on shore, protected by only half a dozen marines. The loss of these would have been irreparable; and though the islanders had not as yet testified the smallest disposition to molest the party, it was difficult to answer for the alteration, which the intelligence of the trans|action at Kowrowa might produce. Mr. King therefore thought proper to dissemble his belief of the death of Captain Cook, and to desire

Kaireekeea to discourage the report; apprehend|ing that either the fear of our resentment, or the successful example of their countrymen, might perhaps lead them to seize the favourable oppor|tunity, which at this time presented itself, of giv|ing us a second blow. He, at the same time, ad|vised him to bring old Kaoo, and the other priests, into a large house adjoining to the morai, partly from a regard to their safety, in case it should have been found necessary to have recourse to violent measures; and partly from a desire of having him near our people, in order to make use of his authority with the natives, if it could be instrumental in maintaining peace.

Mr. King having stationed the marines on the top of the morai, which formed a strong and advantageous post, intrusted the command to Mr. Bligh, who received the most positive directions to act solely on the defensive, went on board the Discovery, in order to confer with Captain Clerke on the dangerous situation of our affairs. He had no sooner left the spot, than the islanders began to annoy our people with stones; and just after he had reached the ship, he heard the firing of the marines. He therefore hastily returned on shore, where he found affairs growing every mo|ment more alarming. The natives were provid|ing arms, and putting on their mats; and their numbers augmented very fast. He also observed several large bodies advancing towards our party

along the cliff, by which the village of Kakooa is separated from the north side of the bay, where Kowrowa is situate.

They at first attacked our people with stones from behind the walls of their inclosures, and meeting with no resistance, they soon became more daring. A few courageous fellows, having crept along the beach, under cover of the rocks, suddenly presented themselves at the foot of the morai, with an intention of storming it on the side next the sea, which was its only accessible part; and they were not dislodged before they had stood a considerable quantity of shot, and had seen one of their number fall.

The courage of one of these assailants deserves to be recorded. Having returned with a view of carrying off his companion, amidst the fire of our whole party, he received a wound, which obliged him to quit the body, and retire; but, a few minutes afterwards, he again made his ap|pearance, and receiving another wound, was un|der the necessity of retreating a second time. At that moment Mr. King arrived at the morai, and saw this man return a third time, faint from the loss of blood and fatigue. Being informed of what had happened, he forbad the soldiers to fire; and the islander was suffered to carry off his friend, which he was just able to accomplish; and then fell down himself, and breathed 〈…〉〈…〉.

A strong reinforcement from both ships having landed about this time, the natives retreated be|hind their walls; which affording Mr. King ac|cess to the priests, he sent one of them to exert his endeavours to bring his countrymen to some terms, and to propose to them, that if they would desist from throwing stones, he would not allow our men to fire. This truce was agreed to, and our people were suffered to launch the mast, and carry off the sails, astronomical instruments, &c. without molestation. As soon as our party had quitted the morai, the islanders took possession of it, and some of them threw a few stones, which, however did no mischief.

Between eleven and twelve o'clock, Mr. King arrived on board the Discovery, where he found that no decisive plan had been adopted for the regulation of our future proceedings. The re|covery of Captain Cook's body, and the restitu|tion of the boat, were the objects, which, on all hands, we agreed to insist on; and Mr. King de|clared it as his opinion, that some vigorous me|thods should be put in execution, if the demand of them should not be instantly complied with.

Though it may justly be supposed that Mr. King's feelings, on the death of a beloved and respected friend, had some share in this opinion, yet there were doubtless other reasons, and those, of the most serious nature that had some weight with him. The confidence which the success or

the natives in killing our Commander, and oblig|ing us to leave the shore, must naturally have in|spired; and the advantage, however inconsider|able, which they had gained over us the preced|ing day, would, he had on doubt, excite them to make farther dangerous attempts; and the more particularly, as they had no great reason, from what they had hitherto observed, to dread the effects of our fire-arms. This kind of weapon, indeed, contrary to the expectation of us all, had produced in them no signs of terror. On our side, such was the condition of our vessels, and the state of discipline among us, that, had a vigorous attack been made on us, during the night, the consequences might perhaps have been highly disagreeable. Mr. King was supported, in these apprehensions, by the opinon of the greater part of the officers on board; and no|thing seemed to him more likely to encourage the islanders to make the attempt, than the ap|pearance of our being inclined to an accommoda|tion, which they could only impute to weakness, or fear.

On the other hand it was urged, in favour of more conciliatory measures, that the mischief was already done, and was irreparable! that the na|tives, by reason of their former friendship and kindness, had a strong claim to our regard; and the more particularly, as the late calamitous ac|cident did not appear to have taken its rise from

any premeditated design; that, on the part of Terreeoboo, his ignorance of the theft, his wil|lingness to accompany Captain Cook on board the Resolution, and his having actually sent his two sons into the pinnace, must rescue his character, in this respect, from the smallest degree of sus|picion; that the behaviour of his woman, and the chiefs, might easily be accounted for, from the apprehensions occasioned in their minds by the armed force, with which Captain Cook landed, and the hostile preparations in the bay; appear|ances so unsuitable to the confidence and friend|ship, in which both parties had hitherto lived, that the arming of the islanders was manifestly with a design to resist the attempt, which they had some reason to expect would be made, to carry off their sovereign by force, and was natural|ly to be expected from a people who had a re|markable affection for their chiefs.

To these dictates of humanity, other motives of a prudential kind were added; that we were in want of a supply of water, and other refresh|ments; that the Resolution's foremast would re|quire seven or eight days work, before it could be stepped; that the spring was advancing very fast; and that the speedy prosecution of our next ex|pedition to the northward, ought now to be our sole object; and that, therefore, to engage in a vindictive contest with the natives, might not only subject us to the imputation of needless

cruelty, but would require great delay in the equipment of our ships.

Captain Clerke concurred in this latter opinion; and though Mr. King was convinced, that an early and vigorous display of our resentment would have more effectually answered every object both of prudence and humanity, he was, upon the whole, not sorry, that the measures he had re|commended were rejected. For though the con|temptuous behaviour of the islanders, and their subsequent opposition to our necessary occupations on shore, arising, most probably, from a mis|construction of our lenity, obliged us at last to have recourse to violence in our own defence; yet he was not certain, that the circumstances of the case would, in the opinion of the generality of people, have justified the use of force, on our part, in the first instance. Cautionary severity is ever invidious, and the rigour of a preventive measure, when it is the most successful, leaves its expediency the least apparent.

While we were thus engaged, in concerting some plan for our future operations, a very nume|rous concourse of the natives still kept possession of the shore; and some of them, coining off in canoes, approached within pistol-shot of the ships, and insulted us by various marks of defiance and contempt. It was extremely difficult to restrain the seamen from the use of their arms on these occasions; but, as pacific measures had been re|solved

on, the canoes were allowed to return unmolested.

Mr. King was now ordered to proceed towards the shore, with the boats of both ships, well manned and armed, with a view of bringing the islanders to a parley, and of obtaining, if possible, a conferrence with some of the Erees. If he should succeed in this attempt, he was to demand the dead bodies, and particularly that of Captain Cook; to threaten them, in case of a refusal, with our resentment; but by no means to fire, unless attacked, and not to go ashore on any account whatever. These instructions were delivered to Mr. King before the whole party, in the most positive manner.

Mr. King and his detatchment left the ships about four o'clock in the afternoon; and, as they approached the shore, they perceived every in|dication of a hostile reception. The natives were all in motion; the women and children retiring; the men arming themselves with long spears and daggers, and putting on their war-mats. It also appeared, that, since the morning, they had thrown up breast-works of stone along the beach, where Captain Cook had landed; in expectation, perhaps, of an attack at that place.

As soon as our party were within reach, the islanders began to throw stones at them with slings, but without doing any mischief. Mr. King concluded, from these appearances, that all

attempts to bring them to a parley would be in effectual, unless he gave them some ground for mutual confidence: he therefore ordered the armed boats to stop, and advanced alone, in the small boat, holding in his hand a white flag; the meaning of which, from an uni••ersal shout of joy from the natives, he had the satisfaction to find was immediately understood. The women in|stantly returned from the side of the hill, whither they had retired; the men threw of their mats and all seated themselves together by the sea-side, extending their arms, and inviting Mr. King to land.

Though such behaviour seemed expressive of a friendly disposition, he could not avoid entertain|ing suspicions of its sincerity. But when he saw Koah, with extraordinary boldness and assurance swimming off towards the boat, with a white flag in his hand, he thought proper to return this mark of confidence, and accordingly received him into the boat, though he was armed; a circum|stance which did not contribute to lessen Mr. King's suspicions. He had, indeed, long har|boured an unfavourable opinion of Koah. The priests had always represented him as a person of a malicious temper, and no friend to us; and the repeated detections of his fraud and treachery, had convinced us of the truth of their assertions. Besides, the melancholy transactions of the morn-part,

inspired Mr. King with the utmost horror at finding himself so near him; and as he ap|proached him, with seigned tears, and embraced him, Mr. King was so distrustful of his intentions that he took hold of the point of the phaooa, which the chief held in his hand and turned it from him. He informed the islander, that he had come to demand the body of Captain Cook and to declare war against the natives, unless it was restored without delay. Koah assured him that this should be done as soon as possible, and that he would go himself for that purpose; and after requesting a piece of iron of Mr. King, with marks of great assurance, he leaped into the water, and swam ashore, calling out to his countrymen, that we were all friends again.

Our people waited with great anxiety, near an hour, for his return. During this interval, the other boats had approached so near the shore, that the men who were in them entered into conversa|tion with a party of the islanders, at a little dis|tance; by whom they were informed, that the Captains body had been cut to pieces, and car|ried up the country; but of this circumstance, Mr. King was not apprized till his return to the ships.

Mr. King now began to express some degree of impatience at Koah's delay; upon which the chiefs pressed him exceedingly to land; assuring him, that, if he would go in person to Terreeo|him.

When they found they could not prevail on Mr. King to go ashore, they endeavoured, on pretence of conversing with him with greater case, to decoy his boat among some rocks, where they might have had it in their power to separate him from the other boats. It was easy to see through these artifices, and he was, therefore, very desirous of breaking off all communication with them, when a chief approached, who had particulary attached himself to Captain Clerke, and the officers of the Discovery, on board which ship he had sailed, when we last quitted the bay, intending to take his passage to the island of Mowee. He said 〈◊〉〈◊〉 came from Terreeoboo, to acquaint our people that the body was carried up the country, but that it should be brought back the following morning. There appeared much sincerity in his manner; and being asked, if he uttered a falsehood, he hooked together his two fore fingers, which is here understood as the sign of veracity, in the use of which these islanders are very scrupulous.

Mr. King being now at a loss how to proceed, sent Mr. Vancouver to inform Captain Clerke of all that had passed; that it was his opinion, the natives did not intend to keep their word with us; and, far from being grieved at what had hap|pened, were, on the contrary, inspired with great confidence on account of their late success, and sought only to gain time, till they could plan some

scheme for getting our people into their power. Mr. Vancouver came back with orders for Mr. King to return on board, after giving the islanders to understand, that if the body was not restored the next morning, the town should be destroyed.

When they perceived our party retiring, they endeavoured to provoke them by the most con|temptuous and insulting gestures. Several of our people said, they could distinguish some of the natives parading about in the cloaths which had belonged to our unhappy countrymen, and among them, an Eree brandishing Captain Cook's hanger and a woman holding the scabbard.

In consequence of Mr. King's report to Cap|tain Clerke, of what he supposed to be the pre|sent temper and disposition of the inhabitants, the most effectual methods were taken to guard against any attack they might make during the night. The boats were moored with top-chains; additional sentinels were stationed in each of our ships; and guard-boats were directed to row round them, in order to prevent the islanders from cut|ting the cables.

In the night, we saw a vast number of lights on the hills, which induced some of us to ima|gine, that they were removing their effects far|ther up into the country, in consequence of our menaces. But it seems more probable, that they were kindled at the sacrifices that were perform|ing on account of the war, in which they supposed

themselves likely to be engaged▪ and, perhaps, the bodies of our slain countrymen were, at that time, burning. We afterwards observed fires of the same kind, as we passed the island of Mo|rotoi; and which, according to the information we received from some of the natives then on board, were made on account of a war they had declared against a neighbouring island. This agrees with what we learned among the Friendly and Society Isles, that, previous to any hostile ex|pedition, the chiefs always endeavoured to animate the courage of the people, by feasts and rejoicings in the night.

We passed the night without any disturbance, except from the howlings and lamentations which were heard on shore. Early the next morning, (Monday the 15th) Koah came along-side the Resolution, with a small pig, and some cloth, which he desired permission to present to Mr. King. We have already mentioned, that this officer was supposed, by the islanders, to be the son of Captain Cook; and as the latter had al|ways suffered them to believe it, Mr. King was probably considered as the chief after his death. As soon as he came on deck, he interrogated Koah with regard to the body; and, on his re|turning evasive answers, refused to accept his pre|sents; and was on the point of dismissing him with expressions of anger and resentment, had not Captain Clerke, with a view of keeping up

the appearance of friendship, judged it more pro|per, that he should be treated with the customary respect.

This chief came frequently to us in the course of the morning, with some trifling present or other; and as we always observed him eyeing every part of the ship with a great degree of at|tention, we took care he should see we were well prepared for our defence.

He was extremely urgent both with Captain Clerke and Mr. King to go on shore, imputing the detention of the bodies to the other chiefs; and assuring those gentlemen, that every thing might be adjusted to their satisfaction, by a per|sonal interview with the king. However, they did not think it prudent to comply with Koah's request; and, indeed, a fact came afterwards to their knowledge, which proved his want of vera|city. For, they were informed, that, immedi|ately after the action in which Captain Cook had lost his life, Terreeoboo had retired to a cave in the steep part of a mountain, that hangs over the bay, which was accessible only by means of ropes, and where he continued for several days, having his provisions let down to him by cords

After the departure of Koah from the ships, we observed that his countrymen, who had as|sembled by day-break, in vast crowds on the shore, flocked around him with great eagerness on his landing, as if they wished to learn the in|telligence

he had gained, and what steps were to be taken in consequence of it. It is highly pro|bable, that they expected we should attempt to put our threats in execution; and they appeared fully determined to stand their ground. During the whole morning, we heard conchs blowing in various parts of the coast; large parties were per|ceived marching over the hills; and, upon the whole, appearances were so alarming, that we carried out a stream anchor, for the purpose of hauling the ship abreast of the town, in case of an attack; and boats were stationed off the north|ern point of the bay, in order to prevent a sur|prize from the natives in that quarter.

The warlike posture in which they appeared at present, and the breach of their engagement to restore the bodies of the slain, occasioned fresh debates among us, concerning the measures which should now be pursued. It was at length deter|mined, that nothing should be permitted to in|terfere with the repair of the Resolution's mast, and the preparations for our departure; but that we should, nevertheless, continue our negocia|tions for the restoration of the bodies of our coun|trymen.

The greater part of the day was employed in getting the fore-mast in a proper situation on deck, that the carpenters might work upon it and also in making the requisite alteration in the commissions of the officers. The chief command

of the expedition having devolved on Captain Clerke, he removed on board the Resolution, promoted Lieutenant Gore to the rank of Captain of the Discovery, appointed Messrs King and Williamson first and second Lieutenants of the Resolution, and nominated Mr. Harvey, a Mid|shipman, who had accompanied Captain Cook during his two last voyages, to fill the vacant lieutenancy. During the whole day, we sustained no interruption from the islanders; and, in the evening, the launch was moored with a top-chain, and guard-boats stationed round each of the ships as before.

About eight o'clock, it being exceedingly dark, we heard a canoe paddling towards the ship; and it was no sooner perceived, than both the sentinels on deck fired into it. There were two of the natives in this canoe, who immediately roared out "Tinnee," (which was their method of pronouncing Mr. King's name), and said they were friends, and had something with them which belonged to Captain Cook. When they came on board, they threw themselves at the feet of our officers, and seemed to be extremely terrified. It fortunately happened, that neither of them was hurt, notwithstanding the ball of both pieces had gone through the canoe.

One of them was the person, who has been al|ready mentioned, under the appellation of the taboo man, who constantly attended Captain Cook

with the particular ceremonies we have before de|scribed; and who, though a man of distinction in the island, could scarcely be prevented from performing for him the most humiliating offices of a menial servant. After bewailing, with many tears, the loss of the Orono, he informed us, that he had brought a part of his body. He then gave us a small bundle which he brought under his arm; and it is impossible to describe the hor|ror with which we were seized, upon finding in it, a piece of human flesh, of the weight of about nine or ten pounds. This, he said, was all that now remained of the body; that the rest had been cut in pieces, and burnt; but that the head, and all the bones, except those which belonged to the trunk, were in the possession of Terreeoboo and the other chiefs; that what we saw had been allotted to Kaoo, the chief of the priests, for the purpose of being used in some religious ceremo|ny; and that he had sent it as a testimony of his innocence, and of his attachment to us.

We had now an opportunity of learning whe|ther they were cannibals; and we did not neglect to avail ourselves of it. We first endeavoured, by several indirect questions, but to each of them apart, to gain information respecting the man|ner in which the other bodies had been treated and disposed of; and, finding them very constant in one account, that, after the flesh had been cut off, the whole of it was burnt; we at last put the

direct question, whether they had not fed on some of it? they immediately testified as much horror at such an idea, as any European would have done; and asked, whether that was the prac|tice among us. They afterwards asked us, with great earnestness, and with an appearance of ap|prehension, when the Orono would come again? and how he would treat them on his return; the same inquiry was often made in the sequel by others; and this idea is consistent with the gene|ral tenour of their conduct towards him, which indicated, that they considered him as a being of a superior species.

Though we pressed our two friendly visitants to continue on board till the next morning, we could not prevail upon them. They informed us, that, if this transaction should come to the knowledge of the king, or any of the other Erees, it might be attended with the most fatal conse|quences to their whole society; to prevent which, they had been▪ under the necessity of coming to us in the dark; and the same precaution, they said, would be requisite in returning on shore. They further told us, that the chiefs were eager to take revenge on us for the death of their coun|trymen; and particularly cautioned us against trusting Koah, who, they assured us, was our implacable enemy; and ardently longed for an opportunity of fighting us, to which the blowing

of the conchs, that we had heard in the morning was intended as a challenge.

It also appeared from the information of these men, that seventeen of their countrymen were slain, in the first action, at the village of Kowro|wa, five of whom were chiefs; and that Kaneena and his brother, our particular friends, were of that number. Eight, they said, had lost their lives at the observatory; three of whom likewise were persons of the first distinction.

The two natives left us about eleven o'clock, and took the precaution to desire, that one of or guard-boats might attend them, till they had passed the Discovery, lest they should again be fired upon, which by alarming their countrymen on shore, might expose them to the danger of detection. This request was readily complied with, and we had the satisfaction to find, that they reached the land safe and undiscovered.

We heard, during the remainder of this night, the same loud lamentations, as in the preceding one. Early the following morning, we received a visit from Koah. Mr. King was piqued at find|ing, that notwithstanding the most glaring marks of treachery in his conduct, and the positive de|claration of our friends the priests, he should still be suffered to carry on the same farce, and to make us at least appear the dupes of his hypo|crisy. Our situation was, indeed; become ex|tremely aukward and unpromising; none of the

purposes for which this pacific plan of proceed|ings had been adopted, having hitherto been, in any respect, promoted by it. No satisfactory an|swer had been given to our demands; we did not seem to have made any progress towards a recon|ciliation with the natives; they still remained on the shore in hostile postures, as if determined to oppose any endeavours we might make to go ashore; and yet it was become absolutely neces|sary to attempt landing, as the completing our stock of water would not admit of any longer delay.

We must remark, however, in justice to the conduct of Captain Clerke, that it was highly probable, from the great numbers of the islanders, and from the resolution with which they seemed to expect our approach, that an attack could not have been made without danger; and that the loss of even a very few men, might have been severely felt by us, during the remainder of our voyage; whereas the delaying to put our menaces into execution, though, on the one hand, it di|minished their opinion of our valour, had the ef|fect of occasioning them to disperse on the other. For this day, about twelve o'clock, upon finding that we persisted, in our inactivity, great bodies of them, after blowing their conchs, and using every method of defiance, marched off, over the hills, and never made their appearance afterwards. Those, however, who remained, were not the

less daring and presumptuous. One of them had the insolence to come within musquet-shot, a|head of the Resolution, and, after throwing seve|ral stones at us, waved over his head the hat which had belonged to Captain Cook, while his countrymen a-shore were exulting and encourag|ing his audacity.

Our people were highly enraged at this insult, and coming in a body on the quarter deck, begged they might no longer be obliged to put up with such reiterated provocations, and requested Mr. King to endeavour to obtain permission for them, from Captain Clerke, to take advantage of the first fair occasion of avenging the death of their much-lamented Commander. On Mr. King's acquainting the Captain with what was passing, he ordered some great guns to be fired at the islanders on shore; and promised the crew, that, if they should be molested at the watering-place, the next day, they should then be permitted to chastise them.

Before we could bring our guns to bear, the natives had suspected our intentions, from the bustle and agitation they observed in the ship; and had retired behind their houses and walls. We were consequently obliged to fire, in some degree at random; notwithstanding which, our shot produced all the effects we could desire. For, in a short time afterwards, we perceived Koah paddling towards us, with the greatest haste;

and when he arrived, we learned, that some peo|ple had lost their lives, and among the rest Maiha|maiha, a principal Eree* 1.5, nearly related to Ter|reeoboo.

Not long after Koah's arrival, two boys swam off from the morai towards our vessels, each armed with a long spear; and after, they had approach|ed pretty near, they began, in a very solemn manner, to chant a song; the subject of which, from their frequently mentioning the word Orono, and pointing to the village where Captain Cook had been slain, we concluded to be the late ca|lamitous occurrence. Having sung for near a quarter of an hour in a plaintive strain, during all which time they continued in the water, they repaired on board the Discovery, and delivered up their spears; and, after remaining there a short time, returned on shore. We could never learn who sent them, or what was the object of this ceremony.

During the night we took the usual precautions for the security of the ships; and, as soon as it was dark, the two natives, who had visited us the preceeding evening, came off to us again. They assured us, that though the effects of our

great guns, this afternoon, had greatly alarmed the chiefs, they had by no means relinquished their hostile intentions, and they advised us to be on our guard.

The following morning, which was the 17th, the boats of both ships were dispatched ashore to procure water; and the Discovery was warped close to the beach, in order to protect the persons employed in that service. We soon found that the intelligence which had been sent us by the priests, was not destitute of foundation, and that the islanders were determined to neglect no op|portunity of annoying us, when it could be done without much hazard.

The villages, throughout this whole cluster of islands, are, for the most part, situated near the sea; and the adjacent ground is enclosed with stone walls, of the height of about three feet. These, we at first supposed, were designed for the division of property; but we now discovered that they served for a defence against invasion, for which purpose they were, perhaps, chiefly in|tended. They consist of loose stones, and the natives are very dexterous in shifting them, with great quickness, to such particular situations, as the direction of the attack may occasionally re|quire. In the sides of the mountain, that stands near the bay, they have likewise holes, or caves, of considerable depth; whose entrance is secured by a fence of a similar kind. From behind both

these stations, the islanders perpetually harrassed our watering party with stones; nor could the in|considerable force we had on shore, with the ad|vantage of musquets, compel them to retreat.

Thus opposed, our people were so occupied in attending to their own safety, that, during the whole forenoon, they filled only one ton of wa|ter. It being therefore impossible for them to perform this service, till their assailants were driven to a greater distance, the Discovery was or|dered to dislodge the enemy with her great guns; which being accomplished by means of a few dis|charges, the men landed without molestation.

The natives, however, made their appearance again, soon afterwards, in their usual method of attack; and it was now deemed absolutely neces|sary to burn down some straggling huts, near the wall behind which they had sheltered themselves. In executing the orders that were given for that purpose, our people were hurried into acts of un|necessary devastation and cruelty. Some allow|ance ought certainly to be made for their resent|ment of the repeated insults, and contemptuous behaviour of the islanders, and for their natural desire of revenging the death of their beloved and respected Commander. But, at the same time, their conduct strongly evinced, that the greatest precaution is requisite in trusting, even for a mo|ment, the discretionary use of arms, in the hands of private soldiers, or seamen, on such occasions.

The strictness of discipline, and the habits of obedience, by which their force is kept directed to suitable objects, lead them to conceive, that whenever they have the power, they have like|wise a right to perform. Actual disobedience be|ing almost the only crime for which they expect to receive punishment, they are apt to consider it as the sole measure of right and wrong; and hence they are too ready to conclude, that what they can do with impunity, they may also do con|sistently with honour and justice; so that the feelings of humanity, and that generosity towards an unresisting enemy, which, at other times, is a striking distinction of brave men, become but feeble restraints to the exercise of violence, when set in opposition to the desire they naturally have of shewing their own power and independence.

It has been before observed, that directions had been given to burn only a few straggling houses, which afforded shelter to the islanders. We were therefore greatly surprised on perceiving the whole village in flames; and before a boat, that was sent to stop the progress of the mischief, could reach the land, the habitations of our old and constant friends, the priests, were all on fire. Mr. King had, therefore, great reason to lament the illness that confined him on board this day. The priests had always been under his protection; and, unfortunately, the officers then on duty having seldom been on shore at the morai, were but lit|tle

acquainted with the circumstances of the place. Had he been present himself, he might in all probability, have been the means of preserving their little society from destruction.

In escaping from the flames, several of the inhabitants were shot; and our people cut off the heads of two of them, and brought them on board. The fate of one unhappy native was much la|mented by all of us. As he was repairing to the well for water, he was shot at by one of the marines. The ball happened to strike his cali|bash, which he instantly threw from him, and ran off. He was pursued into one of the caves above-mentioned, and no lion could have defend|ed his den with greater bravery and fierceness; till at length, after he had found means to keep two of our people at bay for a considerable time, he expired, covered with wounds. This accident first brought us acquainted with the use to which these caverns are applied.

About this time a man, advanced in years, was taken prisoner, bound, and conveyed on board the Resolution, in the same boat, with the heads of his two countrymen. We never observed horror so strongly portrayed, as in the face of this person, nor so violent a transition to immo|derate joy, as when he was untied, and given to understand, that he might depart in safety. He shewed us that he was not deficient in gratitude,

as he not only often returned afterwards with pre|sents of provisions, but, also did us other services.

In a short time after the destruction of the vil|lage, we saw coming down the hill, a man, ac|companied by fifteen or twenty boys, who held in their hands pieces of white cloth, plantains, green boughs, &c. It happened that this pacific embassy, as soon as they were within reach, re|ceived the fire of a party of our men. This, however, did not deter them from continuing their procession, and the officer on duty came up in time, to prevent a second discharge. As they made a nearer approach, the principal person proved to be our friend Kaireckeea, who had fled when our people first set fire to the village, and had now returned, and expressed his desire of be|ing sent on board the Resolution.

On his arrival we found him extremely thought|ful and grave. We endeavoured to convince him of the necessity there was of setting fire to the village, by which his house, and those of his brethren were unintentionally destroyed. He ex|postulated with us on our ingratitude and want of friendship; and indeed, it was not till the pre|sent moment, that we knew the whole extent of the injury that had been done them. He in|formed us, that, confiding in the promises Mr. King had made them, and as well as in the as|surances they had received from the men, who had brought us some of Captain Cook's remains,

they had not removed their effects back into the country, as the other inhabitants had done, but had put every valuable article of their own, as well as what they had collected from us, into a house adjoining the morai, where they had the mortification to see it all set on fire by our people. He had, on coming on board, perceived the heads of his two countrymen lying on deck, at which he was greatly shocked, and earnestly desired that they might be thrown over-board. This request, by the directions of Captain Clerke, was immediately complied with.

Our watering party returned on board in the evening, having sustained no farther interruption. We passed a disagreeable night; the cries and lamentations we heard from the shore being far more dreadful than ever. Our only consolation, on this occasion, arose from the hopes that a re|petition of such severities might not be requisite in future.

It is remarkable, that amidst all these disturb|ances, the female natives who were on board, did not offer to leave us, or discover any apprehen|sions either for themselves or their friends on shore. They appeared, indeed, so perfectly un|concerned, that some of them, who were on deck when the village was in flames, seemed to admire the spectacle, and frequently exclaimed, that it was maitai, or very fine.

The next morning the treacherous Koah came off to the ships, as usual. There being no longer any necessity for keeping terms with him, Mr. King was allowed to treat him as he thought pro|per. When he approached the side of the Re|solution, singing a song, and offering a hog, and some plantains, to Mr. King, the latter ordered him to keep off, and cautioned him never to make his appearance again without the bones of Captain Cook, lest his life should pay the forfeit of his repeated breach of faith. He did not appear much mortified with this unwelcome reception, but immediately returned on shore, and joined a party of his countrymen, who were throwing stones at our waterers. The body of the young man, who had been killed the preceding day, was found this morning lying at the entrance of the cave; and a mat was thrown over him by some of our people; soon after which they saw several of the natives carrying him off on their shoulders, and could hear them chanting, as they marched, a mournful song.

The islanders being at length convinced that it was not the want of ability to chastize them which had induced us at first to tolerate their provocations, desisted from molesting our people; and, towards the evening, a chief, named Eap|po, who had seldom visited us, but whom we knew to be a man of the first distinction, came with presence from Terreeoboo to sue for peace.

These presents were accepted, and the chief was dismissed with the following answer: That no peace would be granted, till the remains of Captain Cook should be restored.

We were informed by Eappo, that the flesh of all the bones of our people who had been slain, as well as the bones of the trunks, had been burnt; that the limb-bones of the marines had been dis|tributed among the inferior chiefs; and that the remains of Captain Cook had been disposed of as follows: the head to a great Erce called Kahoo|opeou; the hair to Maiha-maiha; and the arms, legs, and thighs, to Terreeoboo. After it was dark, many of the natives came off with various sorts of vegetables; and we also received from Kaireekeea two large presents of the same articles.

The next day was principally employed in sending and receiving the messages that passed between Captain Clerke and the old king. Eappo was very urgent, that one of our officers should go on shore; and offered to remain on board, in the mean time, as an hostage. This request, however, was not complied with; and he left us with a promise of bringing the bones the follow|ing day. Our watering party, at the beach, did not meet with the least opposition from the islanders; who, notwithstanding our cautious be|haviour, again ventured themselves amongst us without any marks of diffidence or apprehension.

On Saturday the 20th, early in the morning we had the satisfaction of getting the fore-mast stepped. This operation was attended with con|siderable difficulty, and some danger, our ropes being so extremely rotten, that the purchase se|veral times gave way.

This morning, between the hours of ten and eleven, we saw a numerous body of the natives descending the hill, which is over the beach, in a sort of procession, each man carrying on his shoulders two or three sugar-canes, and some bread-fruit, plantains, and taro, in his hand. They were preceeded by two drummers, who, when they reached the water-side, seated them|selves by a white flag, and began beating their drums, while those who had followed them, ad|vanced, one by one, and deposited the presents they had brought with them; after which they retired in the same order. Soon afterwards Eappo appeared in his long feathered cloak, bearing something with great solemnity in his hands; and having stationed himself on a rock, he made signs that a boat should be sent him.

Captain Clerke, supposing that the chief had brought the bones of Captain Cook (which, in|deed, proved to be the case), went himself in the pinnace to receive them, and ordered Mr. King to attend him in the cutter. When they arrived at the beach, Eappo, entering the pinnace, de|livered the bones to Captain Clerke, wrapped up

in a great quantity of fine new cloth, and covered with a spotted cloak of black and white feathers. He afterwards attended our gentlemen to the Resolution, but could not be prevailed on to ac|company them on board; being, perhaps, from a sense of decency, unwilling to be present at the opening of the parcel.

We found, in this bundle, both the hands of Captain Cook entire, which were well known to us from a scar on one of them, that divided the fore finger from the thumb, the whole length of the metacarpal bone; the skull, but with the scalp separated from it, and the bones of the face wanting; the scalp, with the ears adhering to it, and the hair upon it cut short; the bones of both the arms, with the skin of the fore-arms hanging to them; the bones of the thighs and legs joined together, but without the feet. The ligaments of the joints were observed to be entire; and the whole shewed sufficient marks of having been in the fire, except the hands, which had the flesh remaining upon them, and were cut in several places, and crammed with salt, most probably with a view of preserving them. The skull was free from any fracture, but the scalp had a cut in the back part of it. The lower jaw and feet, which were wanting, had been seized, as Eappo in|formed us, by different Erees; and he also told us, that Terreeoboo was using every means to recover them.

Eappo, and the king's son, came on board the next morning, and brought with them not only the remaining bones of Captain Cook, but like|wise the barrels of his gun, his shoes, and some other trifles which had belonged to him. Eappo assured us, that Terreeoboo, Maiha-maiha, and himself were extremely desirous of peace; that they had given us the most convincing proofs of it; and that they had been prevented from giving it sooner by the other chiefs, many of whom were still disaffected to us. He lamented, with the most lively sorrow, the death of six chiefs, who had been killed by our people; some of whom, he said, were among our best friends. He in|formed us, that the cutter had been taken away by Pareea's people, probably in revenge for the blow that he had received; and that it had been broken up the following day. The arms of the marines, which we had also demanded, had been carried off, he said, by the populace, and were irrecoverable.

Nothing now remained, but to perform the last solemn offices to our excellent Commander. Eappo was dismissed with orders to taboo all the bay; and, in the afternoon, the bones having been deposited in a coffin, the funeral service was read over them, and they were committed to the deep with the usual military honours. Our feel|ings, on this mournful occasion, are more easy to be conceived than expressed.

During the morning of the 22d, not a canoe was seen in the bay. The taboo, which Eappo, at our desire, had laid on it the preceding day, not being yet taken off. At length that chief came off to us. We assured him, that we were now perfectly satisfied; and that, as the Orono was buried, all remembrance of the late unhappy transactions was buried with him. We after|wards requested him to take off the taboo, and to make it known, that the islanders might bring provisions to us as usual. The ships were soon surrounded with canoes, and many of the Erees came on board, expressing their grief at what had happened, and their satisfaction at our reconci|liation. Several of our friends, who did not fa|vour us with a visit, sent presents of large hogs, and other provisions. Among the rest, the old treacherous Koah came off to us, but we refused him admittance.

As we were now prepared for putting to sea, Captain Clerke imagining, that, if the intelligence of our proceedings should reach the islands to leeward before us, it might have a bad effect, gave orders, that the ships should be unmoored. About eight in the evening, we dismissed all the natives; and Eappo, and the friendly Kaireekeea, took their leave of us in a very affectionate man|ner. We immediately weighed anchor, and stood out of Karakakooa bay. The islanders were as|sembled in great numbers on the shore; and, as

we passed along, received our last farewels, with every mark of good-will and affection.

CHAP. V.

Leave Karakakooa Bay—In quest of an Harbour on the South-East Side of Mowee—Driven to Leeward by the Current, and strong easterly Winds—Pass Tohoorowa—South-west Side of Mo|wee described—Proceed to Woahoo—The north-east coast of Woahoo described—Disappointed in attempting to water—Proceed to Atooi—Anchor in Wymoa Bay—The Natives not so friendly as before—The watering Party guarded by Marines—Insolence of the Natives, who demanded a Hatchet for every Cask of Water—The islanders treat our People with Contempt—They steal Mr. King's Hanger out of his Hand—Their Insolence at the Water-side—Are fired at by two Marines—One of them wounded—Visit from the contend|ing Chiefs—Anchor off Oneeheow—Departure.

HAVING cleared the land about ten, we stood to the northward, with a view of searching for an harbour, which the natives had often mentioned, on the south-east side of Mo|wee.

We found ourselves, the next morning, driven to leeward, by a swell from the north-east; and a fresh gale, from the same quarter, drove us still farther to the westward. At mid|night we tacked, and stood four hours to the south, to keep clear of the land; and, at day-break, on the 24th, we were standing towards a small barren island, named Tahoorow, about seven miles south-west of Mowee.

Giving up all prospect of making a closer ex|amination of the south-east parts of Mowee, we bore away, and kept along the south-east side of Tahoorowa. Steering close round its western extremity, in order to fetch the west side of Mo|wee, we suddenly shoaled our water, and saw the sea breaking on some rocks, almost right a-head. We then kept away about a league and a half, and again steered to the northward; when we stood for a passage between Mowee, and an island named Ranai. In the afternoon, the weather was calm, with light airs from the west. We stood to the north-north-west; but, observing a shoal about sunset, and the weather being unset|tled, we stood towards the south.

We had now passed the south-west side of this island, without being able to approach the shore. This side of the island forms the same distant view as the north-east, as seen when we returned from the north, in November, 1778; the hilly parts, connected by low flat isthmus, having,

at the first view, the appearance of two separate islands. This deceptive appearance continued till we were within about ten leagues of the coast, which, bending a great way inward, formed a capacious bay. The westernmost point off which the shoal runs that we have just now mentioned, is rendered remarkable by a small hillock; south of which is a fine sandy bay; and on the shore, are several huts, with plenty of cocoa-trees about them.

In the course of the day, several of the na|tives visited us, and brought provisions with them. We presently discovered, that they had heard of our unfortunate disaster at Owhyhee. They were extremely anxious to be informed of the particulars, from a woman who had hid herself in the Resolution, in order to obtain a passage to Atooi; making particular enquiries about Pa|reea, and some other chiefs; and seeming much agitated at the death of Kaneena, and his bro|ther. But, in whatever light this business might have been represented by the woman, it pro|duced no bad effect in their behaviour, which was civil and obliging to an extreme.

During the night, the weather varied continu|ally, but on the 25th, in the morning, the wind being at east, we steered along the south side of Ranai, till almost noon, when we had baffling winds and calms till the evening; after which, we had a light easterly breeze, and steered for the

west of Morotoi. The current, which had set from the north-east, ever since we left Karaka|kooa bay, changed its direction, in the course of this day, to the south-east.

The wind was again variable during the night; but, early in the morning of the 26th, it settled at east; blowing so fresh, as to oblige us to dou|ble-reef the top-sails. At seven, we opened a small bay, distant about two leagues, having a fine sandy beach; but not perceiving any appear|ance of fresh water, we endeavoured to get to the windward of Woahoo, an island which we had seen in January, 1778. We saw the land about two in the afternoon, bearing west by north at the distance of about eight leagues. We tack|ed, as soon as it was dark, and again bore away at day-light on the 27th. Between ten and ele|ven, we were about a league of the shore, and near the middle of the north-east side of the island.

To the northward, the coast consists of detach|ed hills, ascending perpendicular from the sea; the sides being covered with wood, and the val|lies between them appearing to be fertile, and well cultivated. An extensive bay was observ|able to the southward, bounded, to the south-east, by a low point of land, covered with cocoa-nut trees; off which, an insulated rock appeared, at the distance of a mile from the shore.

The wind continuing to blow fresh, we were unwilling to entangle ourselves with a lee-shore. Instead of attempting, therefore, to examine the bay, we hauled up and steered in the direction of the coast. At noon, we were about two leagues from the island, and a-breast of the north point of it. It is low and flat, having a reef stretch|ing off almost a mile and an half. Between the north point, and a head-land to the south-west, the land bends inward, and seemed to promise a good road. We therefore steered along the shore, at about a mile distance. At two, we were in|duced, by the sight of a fine river, to anchor in thirteen fathoms water. In the afternoon, Mr. King attended the two Captains on shore, where few of the natives were to be seen, and those principally women. The men, we were inform|ed, were gone to Morotoi, to fight Tahyterree; but their chief, Perreeorance, remained behind, and would certainly attend us, as soon as he was informed of our arrival.

The water, to our great disappointment, had a brackish taste, for about two hundred yards up the river; beyond which, however, it was per|fectly fresh, and was a delightful stream. Far|ther up, we came to the conflux of two small ri|vulets, branching off to the right and left of a steep romantic mountain. The banks of the river, and all that we saw of Woahoo, are in fine cultivation, and full of villages; the face of the

country being also remarkably beautiful and pic|turesque.

As it would have been a laborious business to have watered at this place, Mr. King was dis|patched to search about the coast to leeward; but, being unable to land, on account of a reef of coral, which extended along the shore, Captain Clerke resolved to proceed immediately to Atooi. In the morning, about eight, we weighed, and stood to the northward; and, on the 28th, at day-light, we bore away for that island, and were in sight of it by noon. We were off its eastern extremity, which is a green flat point, about sun-set.

It being dark, we did not venture to run for the road on the south-west side, but spent the night in plying on and off, and anchored, at nine the next morning, in twenty-five fathoms water. In running down, from the south-east point of the island, we saw, in many places, the appearance of shoal water, at some distance from the land.

Being anchored in our old station, several ca|noes came to visit us; but it was very observable, that there was not that appearance of cordiality in their manner, and complacency in their coun|tenances, as when we saw them before. They had no sooner got on board, but one of them in|formed us, that we had communicated a disorder to the women, which had ••••lled many persons of

both sexes. He, at that time, was afflicted with the venereal disease, and minutely described the various symptoms which had attended it. As no appearance of that disorder had been observed amongst them, on our first arrival, we were, it is to be feared, the authors of this irreparable mischief.

The principal object in view, at this place, was to water the ships with as much expedition as possible; and Mr. King was sent on shore in the afternoon, with the launch and pinnace, laden with casks. He was accompanied by the gun|ner of the Resolution, who was instructed to trade for some provisions; and they were attend|ed by a guard of five marines. Multitudes of people were collected upon the beach, by whom, at first, we were kindly received; but, after we had landed the casks, they began to be exceed|ingly troublesome.

Knowing, from experience, how difficult a task it was to repress this disposition, without the interposition of their chiefs, we were sorry to be informed, that they were all at a distant part of the island. Indeed we both felt and lamented the want of their assistance; for we could hardly form a circle, as our practice usually was, for the safety and convenience of the trading party. No sooner had we taken this step, and posted marines to keep off the populace, than a man took hold of the bayonet belonging to one of the

soldier's musquets, and endeavoured to wrench it forcibly from his hand. Mr. King immedi|ately advanced towards them, when the native quitted his hold, and retired; but immediately returned, having a spear in one hand, and a dag|ger in the other; and it was with difficulty that his countrymen could restrain him from engaging with the soldier. This affray was occasioned by the native's having received, from the soldier, a slight prick with his bayonet, to induce him to keep without the line.

Our situation, at this time, required great management and circumspection; Mr. King ac|cordingly enjoined, that no one should presume to fire, or proceed to any other act of violence, without positive commands. Having given these instructions, he was summoned to the assistance of the watering party, where he found the natives in the same mischievous disposition. They had peremptorily demanded, for every cask of water, a large hatchet; which not being complied with, they would not permit the sailors to roll them to the boats.

As soon as Mr. King had joined them, one of the natives approached him, with great inso|lence, and made the same demand. Mr. King told him, that, as a friend, he was welcome to a hatchet, but he certainly would carry off the wa|ter, without paying for it; and instantly order|ed the pinnace men to proceed; at the same

time calling for three marines, from the trading party, to protect them.

This becoming spirit so far succeeded, as to prevent any daring attempt to interrupt us, but they still persevered in the most teasing and in|sulting behaviour. Some of them, under pre|tence of assisting the sailors in rolling the casks towards the shore, gave them a different direc|tion; others stole the hats from off our people's heads, pulled them backward by the skirts of their clothes, and tripped up their heels; the popu|lace, during all this time, shouting and laugh|ing, with a mixture of mockery and malice. They afterwards took an opportunity of stealing the cooper's bucket, and forcibly took away his bag. Their principal aim, however, was to pos|sess themselves of the musquets of the marines, who were continually complaining of their at|tempts to force them from their hands. Though they, in general, preserved a kind of deference and respect for Mr. King, yet they obliged him to contribute his share towards their stock of plunder. One of them approached him, in a familiar manner, and diverted his attention, whilst another seized his hanger, which he held carelessly in his hand, and ran away with it.

Such insolence was not to be repelled by force. Prudence dictated that we must patiently submit to it; at the same time, guarding against its ef|fects as well as we were able. Mr. King was,

however, somewhat alarmed, on being soon after informed by the serjeant of marines, that, turn|ing suddenly round, he saw a man behind him, armed with a dagger, in the position of striking. Though he might, perhaps, be mistaken, in this particular, our situation was truly critical and alarming; and the smallest error, or mistake, on our part, might have been of fatal consequences.

Our people being separated into three small parties; one filling casks at the lake; another rolling them to the shore; and a third purchasing provisions; Mr. King had some intentions of collecting them together, in order to protect the performance of one duty at a time. But, on due reflection, he thought it more adviseable to let them proceed as they had begun. If a real at|tack had been made, even our whole force could have made but a poor resistance. He thought, on the other hand, that such a step might operate to our disadvantage, as being an evident token of our fears. Besides, in the present case the crowd was kept divided, and many of them wholly occupied in bartering.

The principal cause of their not attacking us was, perhaps, their dread of the effects of our arms; and, as we appeared to place so much confidence in this advantage, as to oppose only five marines to such a multitude of people, their ideas of our superiority must have been greatly exalted. It was our business to cherish this opi|nion;

and, it must ever be acknowledged, to the honour of the whole party, that it was impos|sible for any men to behave better, in order to strengthen these impressions. Whatever could be considered as a jest, they received with pa|tience and good-nature; but, if they were inter|rupted by any serious attempt, they opposed it with resolute looks and menaces. At length, we so far succeeded, as to get all our casks to the sea-side, without any accident of consequence.

While our people were getting the casks into the launch, the inhabitants thinking they should have no farther opportunity of plundering, grew more daring and insolent. The serjeant of ma|rines luckily suggested to Mr. King, the advan|tage of sending off his party first into the boats, by which means the musquets would be taken out of their reach; which, as above related, were the grand objects the islanders had in view: and, if they should happen to attack us, the marines could more effectually defend us, than if they were on shore.

Every thing was now in the boats, and only Mr. King, Mr. Anderson, the gunner, and a seaman of the boat's crew, remained on shore. The pinnace laying beyond the surf, which we were under a necessity of swimming through, Mr. King ordered the other two to make the best of their way to it, and told them he would follow them.

They both refused to comply with this order, and it became a matter of contest, who should be the last on shore. Some hasty expression, it seems Mr. King had just before made use of to the sailor, which he considered as a reflection on his courage, and excited his resentment; and the old gunner, as a point of honour was now start|ed, conceived it to be his duty to take a part in it. In this whimsical situation, they, perhaps, might have long remained, had not the dispute been settled by the stones, which began to fly plentifully about us, and by the exclamations of the people from the boats, begging us to be expe|ditious, as the natives were armed with clubs and spears, and pursuing us into the water. Mr. King arrived first at the pinnace, and, perceiv|ing Mr. Anderson was so far behind, as not to be entirely out of danger, he ordered one musquet to be fired; but in the hurry of executing his orders, the marines fired two. The natives im|mediately ran away, leaving only one man and woman on the beach. The man attempted to rise several times, but was not able, having been wounded in the groin. The islanders, in a short time, returned; and, surrounding the wounded man, brandished their spears at us, with an air of defiance; but, by the time we reached the ships, some persons arrived which we supposed to be the chiefs, by whom they were all driven from the shore.

Captain Clerke, during our absence, had been under terrible apprehensions for our safety; which had been considerably increased by his misunder|standing some of the natives, with whom he had had some conversation on board. The name of Captain Cook being frequently mentioned, ac|companied with circumstantial descriptions of death and destruction, he concluded that they had received intelligence of the unfortunate events at Owhyhee, to which they alluded. But they were only endeavouring to make him understand, that wars had arisen on account of the goats, which Captain Cook had left at Oneeheow, and that the poor goats had been slaughtered, during the contest for the property of them. Captain Clerke, applying these shocking representations to our misfortunes at Owhyhee, and to an indi|cation of revenge, fixed his telescope upon us the whole time: and, as soon as he saw the smoke of the musquets, ordered the boats to be put off to our assistance.

On the 2d of March, being the next day, Mr. King was again ordered on shore, with the wa|tering party. Ae we had so narrowly escaped the preceding day, Captain Clerke augmented our force from both ships, and we had a guard of forty men under arms. This precaution, how|ver, was found to be unnecessary; for the beach was left entirely to ourselves, and the ground, extending from the landing-place to the lake, ta|booed.

Hence we concluded, that some of the chiefs had visited this quarter; who, being un|able to stay, had considerately taken this step, that we might be accommodated with safety. Se|veral men appeared with spears and daggers, on the other side of the river, but never attempted to molest us. Their women came over, and seat|ed themselves close by us, on the banks; and about the middle of the day, some of the men were prevailed on to bring us hogs and roots, and also to dress them for us. When we had left the beach, they came down to the sea-side, and one of them had the audacity to throw a stone at us; but, as his conduct was highly censured by the rest, we did not express any kind of resent|ment.

On the 3d, we completed our watering, with|out much difficulty; and, on returning to the ships, we were informed, that several chiefs had been on board, and had apologized for the con|duct of their countrymen, attributing their riot|ous behaviour to the quarrels then subsisting among the principal people of the island, and which had destroyed all order and subordination.

The government of Atooi was disputed be|tween Toneoneo, who had the supreme power when we were there the preceding year, and a youth named Teavee. By different fathers, they are both the grandsons of Perreeorannee, king of Woahoo; who gave Atooi to the former, and

Oneeheow to the latter. The quarrel originated about the goats which we had left at Oneeheow the year before; they being claimed by Toneo|neo, as that island was a dependency of his. The adherents of Teavee insisting on the right of possession, both parties prepared to support their pretensions, and a battle ensued just before our arrival, wherein Toneoneo had been defeated. ••••neoneo was likely to become more affected by 〈◊〉〈◊〉 consequence of this victory, than by the loss of the objects in dispute; for the mother of Tea|vee having married a second husband, who was not only a chief at Atooi, but also at the head of a powerful faction there, he thought of embracing the present opportunity of driving Toneoneo out of the island, that his son-in-law might succeed to the government. The goats, which had in|creased to six, and would probably have stocked these islands in a few years, were destroyed in this contest.

On the 4th we were visited, on board the Re|solution, by the father-in-law, the mother, and the sister of the young prince, who made several curious presents to Captain Clerke. Among the rest, were some fish-hooks, which were made from the bones of Terreeoboo's father, who had been killed in an unsuccessful descent upon Woa|hoo. Also a fly-flap, from the hands of the prince's sister, which had a human bone for its handle, and had been given to her by her father-in-law,

as a trophy. They were not accompa|nied by young Teavee, he being then engaged in the performance of some religious rites, on ac|count of the victory he had obtained.

This day, and the 5th and 6th, were employed in completing the Discovery's water. The car|penters were engaged in caulking the ships, and preparing for our next cruise. We no longer re|ceived any molestation from the natives, who supplied us plentifully with pork and vegetables.

We were now visited by an Indian, who brought a piece of iron on board, to be formed into the shape of a pahooa. It was the bolt of some large ship timbers, but neither the officers nor men could discover to what nation it belonged; though, from the shape of the bolt, and the paleness of the iron, they were convinced it was not Eng|lish. They enquired strictly of the native how he came possessed of it, when he informed them, that it was taken out of a large piece of timber, which had been driven upon their island, since we were there in January, 1778.

We received a visit, on the 7th, from Tone|oneo, at which we were surprized. Hearing the dowager princess was on board, he could hardly be prevailed on to enter the ship. When they met, they cast an angry lowering look at each other. He did not stay long, and appeared much dejected. We remarked, however, with some degree of surprize, that the women prostrated

themselves before him, both at his coming and going away; and all the natives on board, treat|ed him with that respect which is usually paid to persons of his rank. It was somewhat remark|able, that a man, who was then in a state of ac|tual hostility with Teavee's party, should venture alone within the power of his enemies. Indeed the civil dissensions, which are frequent in all the south sea islands, seem to be conducted with|out much acrimony; the deposed Governor still enjoying the rank of an Eree, and may put in practice such means as may arise; to regain the consequence which he has lost.

At nine, in the morning of the 8th, we weigh|ed, and proceeded towards Oneeheow, and came to anchor in twenty fathoms water, at about three in the afternoon, nearly on the spot where we an|chored in 1778. With the other anchor, we moored in twenty-six fathoms water. We had a strong gale from the eastward in the night, and, the next morning, the ship had driven a whole cable's length, both anchors being almost brought a-head; in which situation we were obliged to continue, this and the two following days.

The weather being more moderate on the 12th, the Master was dispatched to the north-west side of the island, in search of a more commodious place for anchoring. In the evening, he return|ed, having found a fine bay, with good anchor|age, in eighteen fathoms water. The points of

the bay were in the direction of north by east, and south by west. A small village was situated on the north side of the bay, to the eastward of which were four wells of good water. Mr. Bligh went far enough to the north to convince him|self that Oreehoua, and Oneeheow, were too se|parate islands.

CHAP. VI.

The Number, Names, and Situation, of the Sand|wich Islands—Extent of Owhyhee, which is the largest of the whole Group—Account of its Dis|tricts—Its Coasts and the adjacent Country, de|scribed—Snowy Mountains—Volcanic Appearan|ces—Account of a Journey into the interior Parts of Owhyhee Plantations—Account of a Hermit—The Country cultivated to the greatest Ad|vantage—A remarkable Cave—Description of Mowee—Ranai—Morotoi—Tahoorowa—Woa|hoo—Atooi—Oneeheow—Ore••houa—Tahoora—Climate of the Sandwich Isles—Winds—Currents—Tides—Quadrupeds—Amazing Supply of Pork procured by us—Birds—Vegetables.

BEING now on the point of taking our final leave of the Sandwich Islands, we shall here give a general account of their situation and

natural history, as well as of the customs and manners of the natives. This will serve as a kind of supplement to the former description, which was the result of our first visit to these islands.

This group is composed of eleven Islands, ex|tending in longitude from 190° 36′ to 205° 6′, east, and in latitude from 18° 54′, to 22° 15′ north. Their names, according to the natives, are, 1. Owhyhee. 2. Atooi, Atowi, or Towi; which is also some times called Kowi. 3. Woa|hoo, or Oahoo. 4. Mowee. 5. Morotoi, or Morokoi. 6. Oreehoua, or Reehoua. 7. Mo|rotinnee, or Morokinnee. 8. Tahoora. 9. Ra|nai, or Oranai. 10. Oneeheow, or Neeheehow. 11. Kahowrowee, or Tahoorowa. These are all inhabited except Tahoora and Morotinnee. Be|sides those we have enumerated, we heard of another island named Modoo-papapa, or Komo|doo-papapa, situated to the west-south-west of Tahoora: it is low and sandy, and is visited solely for the purpose of catching turtle and wa|ter-fowl. As we could never learn that the na|tives had knowledge of any other islands, it is most probable that no others exist in their neigh|bourhood.

Captain Cook had distinguished this cluster of islands by the name of the Sandwich Islands, in honour of the Earl of Sandwich, then first Lord of the Admiralty, under whose administration he

had enriched Geography with so many valuable discoveries; a tribute justly due to that noble|man, for the encouragement and support which these voyages derive from his power, and for the zealous eagerness with which he seconded the views of our illustrious navigator.

Owhyhee, the most easterly of these islands, and by far the largest of them all, is of a trian|gular figure, and nearly equilaterial. The an|gular points constitute the northern, southern, and eastern extremities. The latitude of the northern extreme is 20° 17′ north, and its longi|tude 204° 2′ east: the southern end stands in the longitude of 204° 15′ east, and in the latitude of 18° 54′ north; and the eastern extremity is in the latitude of 19° 34′ north, and in the lon|gitude of 205° 6′ east. The circumference of the whole island is about 255 geographical miles, or 293 English ones. Its breadth is twenty-four leagues; and its greatest length, which lies near|ly in a north and south direction, is twenty-eight leagues and a half. It is divided into six ex|tensive districts, namely, Akona and Koaara, which are on the west side; Kaoo and Opoona, on the south-east; and Aheedoo and Amakooa, on the north-east.

A mountain named Mouna Kaah, (or the moun|tain Kaah) which rises in three peaks, continu|ally covered with snow, and may be discerned at the distance of forty leagues, separates the dis|trict

of Amakooa from that of Aheedoo. The coast, to the northward of this mountain, is composed of high and abrupt cliffs, down which fall many beautiful cascades of water. We once flattered ourselves with the hopes of finding a harbour round a bluff head, on a part of this coast, in the latitude of 20° 10′ north, and the longitude of 204° 26′ east; but after we had doubled the point, and were standing close in, we found that it was connected, by a low valley, with another elevated head to the north-westward. The country rises inland with a gradual ascent, and is intersected by narrow deep glens, or rather chasms; it seemed to be well cultivated, and to have many villages scattered about it. The snowy mountain above-mentioned is very steep, and its lowest part abounds with wood.

The coast of Aoeedoo is of a moderate eleva|tion; and the interior parts have the appearance of being more even than the country towards the north-west. We cruised off these two districts for near a month; and, whenever our distance from the shore would permit, were surrounded by canoes laden with refreshments of every kind. On this side of the island we often met with a very heavy sea, and a great swell; and, as there was much foul ground off the shore, we seldom made a nearer approach to the land than two or three leagues.

The coast towards the north-east of Apoona, which constitutes the eastern extreme of the island, is rather low and flat. In the inland parts the acclivity is very gradual; and the country abounds with bread-fruit and cocoa-nut trees. This ap|peared to us to be the finest part of the whole island; and we were afterwards informed, that the king occasionally resided here. The hills, at the south-western extremity, rise with some abrupt|ness from the sea-side, leaving only a narrow border of low land towards the beach. The sides of these hills were covered with verdure; but the adjacent country seemed thinly inhabited.

When our ships doubled the east point of the island, we had sight of another snowy mountain, called by the natives Mouna Roa (or the extensive mountain) which, during the whole time we were sailing along the south-eastern side, conti|nued to be a very conspicuous object. It was flat at the summit, which was perpetually involved in snow; and we once observed its sides also slightly covered with it for a considerable way down. According to the tropical line of snow, as determined by Monsieur Condamine, from ob|servations made on the Cordilleras in America, the height of this mountain must be, at least, 16,020 feet. It therefore exceeds the height of the Pico de Teyde, or Peak of Teneriffe, by 3680 feet, according to the computation of the Che|valier de Borda, or 724, according to that of

Dr. Heberden. The peaks of Mouna Kaah seemed to be of the heigh•• of about half a mile; and, as they are wholly covered with snow, the altitude of their summits must at least be 18,400 feet.

The coast of Kaoo exhibits a most horrid and dismal prospect; the whole country having, to appearance, undergone an entire change from the consequences of some dreadful convulsion. The ground is, in all parts, covered with cinders; and, in many places, intersected with blackish streaks, which seem to mark the progress of a lava that has flowed, not many centuries ago, from Mouna Roa to the shore. The south pro|montory appears like the mere dregs of a volcano. The head-land consists of broken and craggy rocks, terminating in acute points, and irregu|larly piled on each other. Notwithstanding the dreary aspect of this part of the island, it con|tains many villages, and is far more populous than the verdant mountains of Apoona. Nor is it difficult to account for this circumstance. These islanders not being possessed of any cattle, have no occasion for pasturage; and are therefore in|clined to prefer such ground, as is either more conveniently situated for fishing, or best adapted to the cultivation of plantains and yams. Now amidst these ruins, there are many spots of rich soil, which are, with great care, laid out in plan|tations;

and the neighbouring sea abounds with excellent fish of various kinds.

Off this part of the coast, at less than a cable's length from the shore, we did not strike ground with one hundred and sixty fathoms of line, ex|cept in a small bight to the east of the southern point, where we found from fifty to fifty-eight fathoms of water, over a sandy bottom. It may be proper to observe, before we proceed to give an account of the western districts, that the whole coast we have described from the northern to the southern extreme, affords not a single harbour, nor the least shelter for shipping.

The south-western parts of Akona are in a condition similar to that of the adjoining district of Kaoo; but the country, further towards the north, has been carefully cultivated, and is ex|ceedingly populous. In this division of the island, lies Karakakooa Bay, of which we have already given a description. Scarce any thing is seen along the coast, but the fragments of black scorch|ed rocks; behind which, the ground, for the space of about two miles and a half, rises gra|dually, and seems to have been once covered with loose burnt stones. These have been cleared away by the inhabitants, frequently to the depth of three feet and upwards; and the fertility of the soil has amply repaired their labour. Here they cultivate in a rich ashy mould, the cloth-plant and sweet potatoes. Groves of cocoa-nut-trees

are scattered among the fields, which are inclosed with stone fences. On the rising ground beyond these, they plant bread-fruit trees, which flourish with surprising luxuriance.

The district of Koaarra extends from the most westerly point to the northern extreme of the island. The whole coast between them forms a spacious bay, which is called by the natives Toe-yah-yah, and is bounded to the northward by two conspicuous hills. Towards the bottom of this bay there is foul corally ground, that extends to the distance of upwards of a mile fron the shore, without which there is good anchorage. The country, as far as the eye could discern, appeared to be fruitful and populous; but no fresh water was to be found. The soil seemed to be of the same kind with that of the district of Kaoo.

Having thus given an account of the coasts of the Island of Owhyhee, and the adjacent country, we shall now relate some particulars respecting the interior parts, from the information we ob|tained from a party, who set out on the 26th of January, on an expedition up the country, prin|cipally with an intention of reaching the snowy mountains. Having previously procured two of the islanders to serve them as guides, they quit|ted the village about four o'clock in the after|noon. Their course was easterly, inclining a lit|tle to the south. Within three or four miles from the bay, they found the country as already de|scribed;

but the hills afterwards rose with a less gradual ascent, which brought them to some ex|tensive plantations, consisting of the taro or eddy root, and sweet potatoes, with plants of the cloth-tree. Both the taro and the sweet potatoes are here planted at the distance of four feet from each other. The potatoes are earthed up almost to the top of the stalk, with a proper quantity of light mould. The taro is left bare to the root, and the mould round it is put in the form of a bason, for the purpose of holding the rain-water; this root requiring a certain degree of moisture. At the Friendly and Society Isles, the taro was con|stantly planted in low and moist situations, and generally in those places where there was the con|veniency of a rivulet to flood it. This mode of culture was considered as absolutely necessary; but we now found that this root, with the pre|caution before-mentioned, succeeds equally well in a more dry situation. It was indeed, remarked by all of us, that the taro of the Sandwich Islands was the best we had ever tasted.

The walls, by which these plantations are separated from each other, are composed of the loose burnt stones, which are met with in clear|ing the ground; and, being totally concealed by sugar-canes, that are planted close on each side, form the most beautiful fences that can be imagined.

Our party stopped for the night at the second hut they observed among the plantations, where they supposed themselves to be six or seven miles distant from our ships. The prospect from this spot was described by th••m as very delightful: they had a view of our vessels in the bay before them; to the left they saw a continued range of villages, interspersed with groves of cocoa-nut-trees, spreading along the shore; a thick wood extending itself behind them; and, to the right, a very considerable extent of ground, laid out with great regularity in well-cultivated planta|tions, displayed itself to their view. Near this spot the natives pointed out to them, at a distance from every other dwelling, the residence of a hermit, who, they said, had, in the former part of his life, been a great chief and warrior, but had long ago retired from the sea-coast of the island, and now never quitted the environs of his cottage. As they approached him, they prostrat|ed themselves, and afterwards presented him with some provisions. His behaviour was easy, frank and cheerful. He testified little astonish|ment at the sight of our people, and though pressed to accept of some European curiosities, he thought proper to decline the offer, and soon withdrew to his cottage. Our party represented him as the most aged person they had ever seen, judging him to be, at a moderate computation, upwards of a hundred years of age.

As our people had supposed that the mountain was not more than ten or a dozen miles distant from the bay, and consequently expected to reach it with ease early the following morning, they were now greatly surprised to find the distance scarce perceivably diminished. This circum|stance, with the uninhabited state of the country, which they were on the point of entering, render|ing it necessary to provide a supply of provisions, they dispatched one of their conductors back to the village for that purpose. Whilst they waited his return, they were joined by several of Kaoo's servants, whom that generous old man had sent after them, loaded with refreshments, and fully authorized, as their route lay through his grounds, to demand, and take away with them whatever they might want.

Great was the surprise of our travellers, on finding the cold here so intense. But, as they had no thermometer with them, they could only form their judgment of it from their feelings; which, from the warm atmosphere they had quit|ted must have been a very fallacious method of judging. They found it, however, so cold, that they could scarce get any sleep, and the islanders could not sleep at all; both parties being dis|turbed during the whole night, by continual coughing, As they, at this time, could not be at any very great height, their distance from the sea being no more than six or seven miles, and

part of the road on a very moderate ascent, this uncommon degree of cold must be attributed to the easterly wind blowing fresh over the snowy mountains.

They proceeded on their journey early the next morning, and filled their calibashes at a well of excellent water, situate about half a mile from their hut. After they had passed the plantations, they arrived at a thick wood which they entered by a path that had been made for the convenience of the islanders, who frequently repair thither for the purpose of catching birds, as well as procur|ing the wild or horse-plantain. Their progress now became extremely slow, and was attended with great labour; for the ground was either swampy, or covered with large stones; the path narrow, and often interrupted by trees lying a|cross it, which they were obliged to climb over as the thickness of the underwood, on each side, rendered it impracticable to pass round them. They saw, in these woods, pieces of white cloth fixed on poles, at small distances, which they imagined were land-marks for the division of pro|perty, as they only observed them where the wild plantains grew. The trees were of the same kind with the spice-tree of New Holland; they were straight and lofty, and their circumference was from two to four feet.

Our party having advanced nine or ten miles in the wood, had the mortification of finding

themselves, suddenly, within sight of the sea, and not very far from it; the path having turned off imperceptibly to the south, and carried them to the right of the mountain, which it was their intention to reach. Their disappointment was considerably heightened by the uncertainty under which they now were with respect to its true bear|ings, as they could not, at present, gain a view of it from the top of the highest trees. They, therefore, thought proper to walk back six or seven miles to an unoccupied hut, where they had left two of their own people, and three of the natives, with the small remnant of their provi|sions. Here they passed the second night, during which the air was so extremely sharp, that, by the morning, their guides were all gone off except one.

Being now in want of provisions, which laid them under the necessity of returning to some of the cultivated parts of the island, they left the wood by the same path by which they had enter|ed it. When they arrived at the plantations, they were surrounded by the islanders, from whom they purchased a fresh supply of necessaries; and prevailed upon two of them to accompany them as guides, in the room of those who had gone away. Having procured the best information they could possibly obtain, with regard to the direction of their road, the party, who were now nine in number, marched for about half a dozen miles

along the skirts of the wood, and then entered it again by a path leading towards the east. They passed, for the first three miles, through a forest of lofty spice-trees, which grew on a rich loam. At the back of these trees they met with an equal extent of low shrubby trees, together with a con|siderable quantity of thick under-wood, upon a bottom of loose burnt stones. This led them to another forest of spice-trees, and the same rich brownish soil, which was again succeeded by a barren ridge of a similar kind with the former. These ridges, as far as they could be seen, ap|peared to run parallel with the sea-shore, and to have Mouna Roa for their centre.

As they passed through the woods they found many unfinished canoes, and huts in several places; but they saw none of the inhabitants. After they had penetrated almost three miles into the second wood, they arrived at two, huts, where they stopped, being greatly fatigued with the days journey, in the course of which they had walked, according to their own computation, at least twenty miles. Having found no springs from the time they quitted the plantations, they had greatly suffered from the violence of their thirst; in consequence of which they were obliged, before the evening came on, to separate into small parties, and go in quest of water. They, at last, met with some that had been left by rain in the bottom of a half-finished canoe; which,

though of a reddish colour, was by no means un|welcome to them.

During the night, the cold was more intense than before; and though they had taken care to wrap themselves up in mats and cloths of the country, and to keep a large fire between the two huts, they could get but very little sleep, and were under the necessity of walking about for the greatest part of the night. Their elevation was now, in all probability, pretty considerable, as the ground, over which their journey lay, had been generally on the ascent.

The next morning, which was the 29th, they set out early, with an intention of making their last and greatest effort to reach the snowy moun|tain; but their spirits were considerably depres|sed, on finding that the miserable pittance of wa|ter, which they had discovered the preceding night, was expended. The path, which reached no farther than where canoes had been built, be|ing now terminated, they were obliged to make their way as well as they could; frequently climb|ing up the most lofty trees, to explore the surrounding country. They arrived, about ele|ven o'clock, at a ridge of burnt stones, from the top of which they had a prospect of the Mouna Roa, which then appeared to be at a distance of between twelve and fourteen miles from them.

They now entered into a consultation, whe|ther they should proceed any further, or rest

contented with the view they now had of the snowy mountain. Since the path had ceased, their road had become highly fatiguing, and was growing still more so, every step they advanced. The ground was almost every where broken into deep fissures, which, being slightly covered with moss, made them stumble almost continually; and the intervening space consisted of a surface of loose burnt stones, which broke under their feet. Into some of these fissures they threw stones, which seemed from the noise they made, to fall to a considerable depth; and the ground sounded hollow as they walked upon it. Besides these cir|cumstances, which discouraged them from pro|ceeding, they found their conductors so averse to going on, that they had reason to think they would not be prevailed on to remain out another night. They, therefore, at length came to a de|termination of returning to the ships, after tak|ing a survey of the country from the highest trees they could find. From this elevation, they per|ceived themselves surrounded with wood towards the sea; they were unable to distinguish, in the horizon, the sky from the water; and betwixt them and the snowy mountain, was a valley of about eight miles in breadth.

The travellers passed this night at a hut in the second forest; and the following day before noon, they had passed the first wood, and found them|selves nine or ten miles to the north-east of the

ships, towards which they marched through the plantations. As they walked along, they did not observe a spot of ground, that was suscep|tible of improvement, left unplanted; and, in|deed, the country, from their account, could scarcely be cultivated to greater advantage for the purposes of the natives.

They were surprised at seeing several fields of hay; and upon their enquiry, to what particu|lar use it was applied, they were informed, that it was intended to cover the ground where the young taro grew, in order to preserve them from being scorched by the rays of the sun. They ob|served among the plantations, a few huts scat|tered about, which afforded occasional shelter to the labourers: but they did not see any villages at a greater distance from the sea than four or five miles. Near one of them, which was situ|ated about four miles from the bay, they disco|vered a cave, forty fathoms in length, three in breadth, and of the same height. It was open at each end; its sides were fluted, as if wrought with a chissel; and the surface was glazed over, perhaps by the action of fire.

Having thus related the principal circumstances that occurred in the expedition to the snowy mountain at Owhyhee, we shall now proceed to describe the other islands of this groupe.

That which is next in size, and nearest in situ|ation to Owhyhee, is Mowee. It stands at the

distance of eight leagues north-north-west from Owhyhee, and is one hundred and forty geogra|phical miles in circuit. It is divided by a low isthmus into two circular peninsulas, of which that to the eastward is named Whamadooa, and is twice as large as that to the west, called O|whyrookoo. The mountains in both rise to a very great height, as we were able to see them at the distance of above thirty leagues. The northern shores, like those of the isle of Owhy|hee, afford no soundings; and the country bears the same aspect of fertility and verdure. The east point of Mowee is in the latitude of 20° 50′ north, and in the longitude of 204° 4′ east.

To the southward, between Mowee and the adjacent islands, we found regular depths with one hundred and fifty fathoms over a bottom of sand. From the western point, which is rather low, runs a shoal, extending towards the island of Ranai, to a considerable distance; and to the south of this, is an extensive bay, with a sandy beach, shaded with cocoa-trees. It is not impro|bable, that good anchorage might be met with here, with shelter from the prevailing winds; and that the beach affords a commodious land|ing-place. The country further back is very ro|mantic in its appearance. The hills rise almost perpendicularly, exhibiting a variety of peaked forms; and their steep sides, as well as the deep chasms between them, are covered with trees,

among which those of the bread-fruit principally abound. The summits of these hills are perfectly bare, and of a reddish brown hue. The natives informed us, that there was a harbour to the south of the eastern point, which they asserted was su|perior to that of Karakakooa; and we also heard that there was another harbour, named Keepoo-keepoo, on the north-western side.

Ranai is about nine miles distant from Mowee and Morotoi, and is situate to the south-west of the passage between those two isles. The coun|try, towards the south, is elevated and craggy; but the other parts of the island had a better ap|pearance, and seemed to be well inhabited. It abounds in roots, such as sweet potatoes, taro, and yams; but produces very few plantains and bread fruit-trees. The south point of Ranai is in the latitude of 20° 46′ north, and in the longi|tude of 203° 8′ east.

Morotoi lies at the distance of two leagues and a half to the west-north-west of Mowee. Its south-western coast, which was the only part of it we approached, is very low; but the land be|hind rises to a considerable elevation; and, at the distance from which we had a view of it, ap|peared to be destitute of wood. Yams are its principal produce; and it may probably contain fresh water. The coast, on the southern and western sides of the island, forms several bays that promise a tolerable shelter from the trade

winds. The west point of Morotoi is in the lon|gitude of 202° 46′ east, and in the latitude of 21° 10′ north.

Tahoorowa is a small island situated off the south-western part of Mowee, from which it is nine miles distant. It is destitute of wood, and its soil seems to be sandy and unfertile. Its lati|tude is 20° 38′ north, and its longitude 203° 27′ east. Between it and Mowee stands the little island of Morrotinnee, which has no inhabitants.

Woahoo lies about seven leagues to the north-west of Morotoi. As far as we were enabled to judge, from the appearance of the north-western and north-eastern parts (for we had not an oppor|tunity of seeing the southern side) it is by far the finest of all the Sandwich Islands. The verdure of the hills, the variety of wood and lawn, and fertile well-cultivated vallies, which the whole face of the country presented to view, could not be exceeded. Having already described the bay in which we anchored, formed by the northern and western extremes, it remains for us to observe, that, in the bight of the bay, to the southward of our anchoring-place, we met with foul rocky ground, about two miles from the shore. If the ground ••ackling of a ship should happen to be weak, and the wind blow with violence from the north, to which quarter the road is entirely open, this circumstance might be attended with some degree of danger: but, provided the cables were

good, there would be no great hazard, as the ground from the anchoring-place, which is op|posite the valley through which the river runs, to the northern point, consists of a fine sand. The latitude of our anchoring-place is 21° 43′ north, and the longitude 202° 9′ east.

Atooi is about twenty-five leagues to the north-west of Woahoo. Towards the north-east and north-west, the face of the country is ragged and broken; but, to the southward, it is more even; the hills rise from the sea-side with a gentle ac|clivity, and, at a little distance back, are cover|ed with wood. Its produce is the same with that of the other islands of this cluster; but its inha|bitants greatly excell the people of all the neigh|bouring islands in the management of their plan|tations. In the low grounds, contiguous to the bay wherein we anchored, these plantations were regularly divided by deep ditches; the fences were formed with a neatness approaching to ele|gance, and the roads through them were finished in such a manner, as would have reflected credit even on an European engineer. The longitude of Wymoa Bay, in this island, is 200° 20′ east, and its latitude 21° 57′ north.

Oneeheow is five or six leagues to the westward of Atooi. Its eastern coast is high, and rises with abruptness from the sea; but the other parts of the island consist of low ground, except a round bluff head on the south-eastern point. It pro|duces

plenty of yams, and of the sweet root calle•• ••ee. The anchoring-place at this island lies in the latitude of 21° 50′ north, and in the longitu•••• of 129° 45′ east.

Oreehoua and Tahoora are two little islands, situate in the neighbourhood of Oneeheow. The former an elevated hummock, connected with the northern extreme of Oneeheow, by a reef of coral rocks. Its latitude is 22° 2′ north, and its longitude 199° 52′ east. The latter stands to the south-east, and is uninhabited: its longitude is 199° 36′ east, and its latitude 21° 43′ north.

The climate of the Sandwich Isles is, perhaps, rather more temperate than that of the West India islands, which are in the same latitude; but the difference is very inconsiderable. The thermo|meter, on shore near Karakakooa Bay, never rose to a greater height than 88°, and that but one day: its mean height, at twelve o'clock, was 83°. Its mean height at noon, in Wymoa Bay, was 76°, and, when out at sea, 75°. In the island of Jamaica, the mean height of the thermometer, at twelve o'clock, is about 86°; at sea 80°.

Whether these islands are subject to the same violent winds and hurricanes with the West Indies, we could not ascertain, as we were not here during any of the tempestuous months. However, as no vestiges of their effects were any where to be seen, and as the islanders gave us no positive testimony of the fact, it is probable, that in this particu|lar,

they resemble the Friendly and Society Isles, which are, in a great degree, free from such tre|mendous visitations.

There was a greater quantity of rain, particu|larly in the interior parts, during the four winter months that we continued among the islanders, than commonly falls in the West-Indies in the dry season. We generally observed clouds col|lecting round the summits of the hills, and pro|ducing rain to leeward; but, after the wind has separated them from the land, they disperse, and are lost, and others supply their place. This oc|curred daily at Owhyhee; the mountainous parts being usually enveloped in a cloud; showers suc|cessively falling in the inland country; with a clear sky, and fine weather, in the neighbour|hood of the shore.

The winds were, for the most part, from east-south-east to north-east. In the harbour of Kara|kakooa we had every day and night a sea and land breeze. The currents sometimes set to windward, and at other times to leeward, without the least regularity. They did not seem to be directed by the winds, nor by any other cause that we can as|sign: they often set to windward against a fresh breeze.

The tides are exceedingly regular, ebbing and flowing six hours each. The flood-tide comes from the east, and, at the full and change of the moon, it is high-water at three quarters of an

hour after three o'clock. Their greatest rise is two feet seven inches.

With respect to the quadrupeds of these islands they are confined to three sorts, namely, hogs, dogs, and rats. The dogs are of the same species with those we saw at Otaheite, having pricked ears, long backs, and short crooked legs. We did not observe any variety in them, except in their skins; some being perfectly smooth, and others having long rough hair. They are about as large as a common turnspit, and seem to be extremely sluggish in their nature; though this may, probably, be more owing to the manner in which they are treated, than to their natural dis|position. They are generally fed with the hogs, and left to herd with those animals; and we do not recollect a single instance of a dog being made a companion here, as is the custom in Europe. Indeed, the practice of eating them seems to be an insuperable bar to their being admitted into society; and as there are no beasts of prey, nor objects of chace, in these islands, the social quali|ties of the dog, its attachment, fidelity, and saga|city, will, in all probability, remain unknown to the natives.

It did not appear that the dogs in the Sand|wich islands were near so numerous, in propor|tion as at Otaheite. But, on the other hand, they have a much greater plenty of hogs, and the breed is of a larger kind. We procured from

them an amazing supply of provisions of this sort. We were upwards of three months, either cruis|ing off the coast, or in harbour at Owhyhee; during all which time the crews of both ships had constantly a large allowance of fresh pork, inso|much that our consumption of that article was computed at about sixty puncheons of five hun|dred weight each. Besides this quantity, and the extraordinary waste, which, amidst such abun|dance, could not be entirely prevented, sixty more puncheons were salted for sea store. The greater part of this supply was drawn from the isle of Owhyhee alone; and yet we did not per|ceive that it was at all exhausted, or even that the plenty had decreased.

The birds of these islands are numerous, though the variety is not great. Some of them may vie with those of any country in point of beauty. There are four species that seem to belong to the trochili, or honey-suckers of Linnaeus. One of them is somewhat larger than a bullfinch; its colour is a glossy black, and the thighs and rump|vent are of a deep yellow. The natives call it hoohoo. Another is of a very bright scarlet; its wings are black, with a white edge, and its tail is black. It is named eeeeve by the inhabitants. The third is variegated with brown, yellow, and red, and seems to be either a young bird, or a variety of the preceding. The fourth is entirely green, with yellow tinge, and is called akaiearooa.

There is also a small bird of the fly-catcher kind; a species of thrush, with a greyish breast; and a rail, with very short wings, and no tail. Ravens are met with here, but they are extremely scarce; they are of a dark brown colour, inclining to black, and their note is different from that of the European raven.

We found here two small birds, that were very common, and both of which were of one genus. One of these was red, and was usually observed about the cocoa-trees, from whence it seemed to derive a considerable part of its subsistance. The other was of a green colour. Both had long tongues, which were ciliated, or fringed at the tip. A bird with a yellow head was likewise very commom here: from the structure of its beak, our people called it a prrroquet: it, how|ever, does not belong to that tribe, but bears a great resemblance to the lexia flavicans, or yellow|ish cross bill of Linnaeus. Here are also owls, curlews, petrels, and gannets; plovers of two species, one nearly the same as our whistling plover; a large white pigeon; the common water-hen; and a long tailed bird, which is of a black colour, and the vent and feathers under the wings yellow.

The vegetable produce of the Sandwich Isles is not very different from that of the other islands of the Pacific Ocean. We have already observed that the taro root, as here cultivated, was superior

to any we had before tasted. The bread-fruit-trees thrive here, not indeed in such abundance as at Otaheite, but they produce twice as much fruit as they do on the rich plains of that island. The trees are nearly of the same height; but the branches shoot out from the trunk considerably lower, and with greater luxuriance of vegetation. The sugar-canes of these islands grow to an ex|traordinary size. One of them was brought to us at Atooi, whose circumference was eleven inches and a quarter; and it had fourteen feet eatable. At Oneeheow we saw some large brown roots, from six to ten pounds in weight, re|sembling a yam in shape. The juice, of which they yield a great quantity, is very sweet, and is an excellent succedaneum for sugar. The natives are exceedingly fond of it, and make use of it as an article of their common diet; and our people likewise found it very palatable and wholesome. Not being able to procure the leaves of this vegetable, we could not ascertain to what species of plant it belonged; but we supposed it to be the root of some kind of fern.

CHAP. VII.

General Account of the Sandwich Isles continued—Origin of the Natives—Their Persons described—Instances of Deformity—Pernicious Consequences arising from the immoderate Use of the Ava—Po|pulation of these Islands—Disposition and Manners of the Inhabitants—Restraints imposed on their Women—Their Ingenuity and Docility—Mr. King's Reasons for supposing that they are not Cannibals at present—Methods of wearing their Hair—Various Ornaments—Dress of the Men—Feathered Cloaks and Helmets—Dress of the Wo|men—A beautiful Kind of Ruff described—Other Ornaments—Villages—Houses—Food—Occupations—Diversions—Their Fondness for Gaming—Asto|nishing Dexterity in Swimming—Canoes—Arts and Manufactures—Mode of painting Cloth—Beauty of their Mats—Their Fishing-Hooks—Cordage—Vari|ous Uses of Gourd-Shells—Salt-Pans—Weapons.

THE natives of the Sandwich Isles are doubt|less of the same extraction with the inhabi|tants of the Friendly and Society Islands, of New-Zealand, the Marquesas, and Easter Island; a race which possesses all the known lands between the longitudes of 157° and 260′ east, and between the latitudes of 47° south, and 22° north. This

fact, extraordinary as it is, is not only evinced by the general resemblance of their persons, and the great similarity of their manners and customs, but seems to be established, beyond all controversy, by the identity of their language. It may not, perhaps, be very difficult to conjecture, from what continent they originally emigrated, and by what steps they have diffused themselves over so immense a space. They bear strong marks of affinity to some of the Indian tribes, which inha|bit the Landrones and Caroline Isles; and the same affinity and resemblance, may also be traced among the Malays and the Battas. At what parti|cular time these migrations happened is less easy to ascertain; the period, in all probability, was not very late, as they are very populous, and have no tradition respecting their own origin, but what is wholly fabulous; though, on the other hand, the simplicity which is still prevalent in their manners and habits of life, and the unadul|terated state of their general language, seem to demonstrate, that it could not have been at any very remote period.

The Sandwich Islanders, in general, exceed the middle size, and are well made. They walk in a very graceful manner, run with considerable agility, and are capable of enduring a great de|gree of fatigue▪ but, upon the whole, the men are inferior, with respect to activity and strength, to the inhabitants of the Friendly Islands, and

the women are less delicate in the formation of their limbs than the Otaheitean females. Their complexion is somewhat darker than that of the Otaheiteans; and they are not altogether so hand|some in their persons as the natives of the Society Isles. Many of both sexes, however, had fine open countenances* 1.6; and the women, in parti|cular, had white well set teeth, good eyes, and an engaging sweetness and sensibility of look.

The hair of these people is of a brownish black, neither uniformly curling like that of the Afri|can negroes, nor uniformly straight, as among the Indians of America; but varying, in this re|spect, like the hair of Europeans. There is one striking peculiarity in the features of every part of this great nation; which is, that, even in the most handsome faces, there is always observable, a fullness of the nostril, without any flatness or spreading of the nose, that distinguishes them from the inhabitants of Europe. It is not wholly improbable, that this may be the effect of their customary method of salutation, which is per|formed by pressing together the extremities of their noses.

The same superiority that we generally ob|served at other islands in the persons of the Erees, is likewise found here. Those that were seen by us were perfectly well formed; whereas the lower

class of people, besides their general inferiority, are subject to all the variety of figure and make, that is met with in the populace of other parts of the world.

There are more frequent instances of defor|mity here, than in any of the other islands we visited. While we were cruising off Owhyhee, two dwarfs came on board; one of whom was an old man, of the height of four feet two inches, but very well proportioned; and the other was a woman, nearly of the same stature. We after|wards saw, among the natives, three who were humpbacked, and a young man who had been destitute of hands and feet, from the very mo|ment of his birth. Squinting is also common among them; and a man, who, they told us, had been born blind, was brought to us for the pur|pose of being cured. Besides these particular defects, they are, in general, extremely subject to boils and ulcers, which some of us ascribed to the great quantity of salt they usually eat with their fish and flesh. Though the Erees are free from these complaints, many of them experience still more dreadful effects from the too frequent use of the ava. Those who were the most affected by it, had their eyes red and iflamed, their limbs emaciated, their bodies covered with a whitish scurf, and their whole frame trembling and paralytic, attended with a disability of raising their heads.

Though it does not appear that this drug uni|versally shortens life, (for Terreeoboo, Kaoo, and several other chiefs, were far advanced in years) yet it invariably brings on a premature and decrepid old age. It is a fortunate circumstance for the people, that the use of it is made a pecu|liar privilege of the chiefs. The young son of Terreeoboo, who did not exceed twelve or thir|teen years of age, frequently boasted of his being admitted to drink ava; and shewed us, with marks of exultation, a small spot in his side that was beginning to grow scaly.

When Captain Cook first visited the Society Isles, this pernicious drug was very little known among them. In his second voyage, he found it greatly in vogue at Ulietea; but it had still gained little ground at Otaheite. During the last time we were there, the havock it had made was almost incredible, insomuch that Captain Cook scarce recognized many of his former acquaint|ances. It is also constantly drank by the chiefs of the Friendly Isles, but so much diluted with water, that it scarcely produces any bad conse|quences. At Atooi, likewise, it is used with great moderation; and the chiefs of that island are, on this account, a much finer set of men than those of the neighbouring islands. It was remarked by us, that, upon discontinuing the use of this root, its noxious effects quickly wore off. We prevailed upon our friends Kaoo and

Kaireekeea, to abstain from it; and they reco|vered surprisingly during the short time we after|wards remained among them.

To form any probable conjectures with regard to the population of islands, with many parts of which we have but an imperfect acquaintance, may be thought highly difficult. There are two circumstances, however, which remove much of this objection. One is, that the interior parts of the country are almost entirely uninhabited: if, therefore, the number of those who inhabit the parts adjoining to the coast, be ascertained, the whole will be determined with some degree of accuracy. The other circumstance is, that there are no towns of any considerable extent, the houses of the islanders being pretty equally scat|tered in small villages round all their coasts. On these grounds we shall venture at a rough calcu|lation of the number of persons in this cluster of islands.

Karakakooa bay, in Owhyhee, is about three miles in extent, and comprehends four villages of about eighty houses each, upon an average, in all three hundred and twenty; besides many straggling habitations, which may make the whole amount to three hundred and fifty. If we allow six people to each house, the country about the bay will then contain two thousand one hun|dred persons. To these we may add fifty fami|lies, or three hundred souls, which we imagine

to be nearly the number employed among the plantations in the interior parts of the island; making, in all, two thousand four hundred. If this number be applied to the whole coast round the island, a quarter being deducted for the un|inhabited parts, it will be found to contain a hun|dred and fifty thousand persons. The other Sand|wich Islands, by the same method of calculation, will appear to contain the following number of inhabitants: Mowee, sixty-five thousand four hundred; Atooi, fifty-four thousand; Morotoi, thirty-six thousand; Woahoo, sixty thousand two hundred; Ranai, twenty thousand four hundred; Oneeheow, ten thousand; and Oreehoua, four thousand. These numbers, including the hun|dred and fifty thousand in Owhyhee, will amount to four hundred thousand: In this computation we have by no means exceeded the truth in the total amount.

It must be acknowledged, notwithstanding the great loss we sustained from the sudden resent|ment and violence of these islanders, that they are of a very mild and affectionate disposition, equally remote from the distant gravity and re|serve of the natives of the Friendly Isles, and the extreme volatility of the Otaheiteans. They seem to live in the greatest friendship and harmony with each other. Those women who had chil|dren, shewed a remarkable affection for them, and paid them a particular and constant attention;

and the men, with a willingness that did honour to their feelings, frequently afforded their assist|ance in those domestic employments. We must, however, remark, that they are greatly inferior to the inhabitants of the other islands, in that best criterion of civilized manners, the respect paid to the female sex. Here the women are not only deprived of the privilege of eating with the men, but are forbidden to feed on the best sorts of provisions. Turtle, pork, several kinds of fish, and some species of plantains, are denied them; and we were informed, that a girl received a vio|lent beating, for having eaten, while she was on board one of our ships, a prohibited article of food. With regard to their domestic life, they seem to live almost wholly by themselves, and meet with little attention from the men, though no instances of personal ill-treatment were ob|served by us.

We have already had occasion to mention the great kindness and hospitality, with which they treated us. Whenever we went ashore, there was a continual struggle who should be most forward in offering little presents for our acceptance, bringing provisions and refreshments, or testify|ing some other mark of respect. The aged per|sons constantly received us with tears of joy, ap|peared to be highly gratified with being permit|ted to touch us, and were frequently drawing comparisons between us and themselves, with

marks of extreme humility. The young women, likewise, were exceedingly kind and engaging, and attached themselves to us, without reserve, till they perceived, notwithstanding all our en|deavours to prevent it, that they had cause to re|pent of our acquaintance. It must, however, be observed, that these females were, in all proba|bility of the inferior class; for we saw very few women of rank during our continuance here.

These people, in point of natural capacity, are, by no means below the common standard of the human race. The excellence of their manufac|tures, and their improvements in agriculture, are doubtless adequate to their situation and natural advantages. The eagerness of curiosity, with which they used to attend the armourer's forge, and the various expedients which they had in|vented, even before our departure from these islands, for working the iron obtained from us, into such forms as were best calculated for their purposes, were strong indications of docility and ingenuity. Our unhappy friend, Kaneena, was endowed with a remarkable quickness of concep|tion, and a great degree of judicious curiosity. He was extremely inquisitive with respect to our manners and customs. He enquired after our sovereign; the form of our government; the mode of constructing our ships; the productions of our country; our numbers; our method of building houses; whether we waged any wars;

with whom, on what occasion, and in what parti|cular manner they were carried on; who was our Deity; besides many other questions of a similar import, which seemed to indicate a com|prehensive understanding. We observed two in|stances of persons disordered in their senses; the one a woman at Oneeheow, the other a man at Owhyhee. From the extraordinary respect and attention paid to them, it appeared, that the opinion of their being divinely inspired, which prevails among most of the oriental nations, is also countenanced here.

It is highly probable, that the practice of feed|ing on the bodies of enemies was originally pre|valent in all the islands of the Pacific Ocean, though it is not known by positive and decisive evidence, to exist in any of them, except New-Zealand. The offering up human victims, which is manifestly a relique of this barbarous custom, still universally prevails among these islanders; and it is not difficult to conceive why the inha|bitants of New-Zealand should retain the repast, which was, perhaps, the concluding part of these horrid rites, for a longer period than the rest of their tribe who were situated in more fertile re|gions. As the Sandwich islanders, both in their persons and disposition, bear a nearer resemblance to the New-Zealanders, than to any other people of this very extensive race, Mr. Anderson was strongly inclined to suspect, that, like them, they

are still cannibals. The evidence, which induced him to entertain this opinion, has been already laid down in the tenth chapter of the third book; but, as Mr. King had great doubts of the just|ness of his conclusions, we shall mention the grounds on which he ventured to differ from him. With regard to the intelligence received on this head from the natives themselves, it may not be improper to observe, that most of the officers on board took great pains to inquire into so curious a circumstance; and that, except in the instances above referred to, the islanders invariably denied that any such practice existed among them.

Though Mr. Anderson's superior knowledge of the language of those people ought certainly to give considerable weight to his judgment, yet when he examined the man who had the little parcel containing a piece of salted flesh, Mr. King, who was present on that occasion, was strongly of opinion, that the signs made use of by the islander intimated nothing more, than that it was designed to be eaten, and that it was very agreeable or wholesome to the stomach. In this sentiment Mr. King was confirmed, by a circum|stance of which he was informed, after the de|cease of his ingenious friend Mr Anderson, namely, that most of the inhabitants of these islands carried about with them a small piece of raw pork, well salted, either put into a callibash, or wrapped up in some cloth, and fastened round

the waist: this they esteemed a great delicacy, and would frequently taste it. With regard to the confusion the lad was in, (for his age did not exceed sixte••n or eighteen years) no person could have been surprised at it, who had been witness of the earnest and eager manner in which Mr. Anderson interrogated him.

Mr. King found it less easy to controvert the argument deduced from the use of the instrument made with sharks teeth, which is of a similar form with that used by the New-Zealanders for cutting up the bodies of their enemies. Though he believed it to be an undoubted fact, that they never make use of this instrument in cutting the flesh of other animals, yet, as the practice of sa|crificing human victims, and of burning the bo|dies of the slain, still prevails here, he considered it as not altogether improbable, that the use of this knife (if it may be so denomin••••ed) is retain|ed in those ceremonies. He was, upon the whole, inclined to imagine, and particularly from the last-mentioned circumstance, that the horrible custom of devouring human flesh has but lately ceased in these and other islands of the Pacific Ocean. Omai acknowledged, that his country|men, instigated by the fury of revenge, would sometimes tear with their teeth the flesh of their slain enemies; but he peremptorily denied that they ever eat it. The denial is a strong indica|tion that the practice has ceased; for in New-Zealand,

where it is still prevalent, the natives never scrupled to confess it.

The Sandwich Islanders, almost universally, permit their beards to grow. There were, how|ever, a few who cut off their beards entirely, among whom was the aged king; and others wore it only on their upper lip. The same variety that is found among the other islanders of this ocean, with respect to the mode of wearing the hair, is likewise observable here. They have be|sides a fashion which seems to be peculiar to them|selves: they cut it close on each side of their heads, down to their ears and leave a ridge, of the breadth of a small hand, extending from the forehead to the neck; which, when the hair is pretty thick and curling, resembles, in point of form, the crest of the helmet of an ancient war|rior. Some of them wear great quantities of false hair, flowing in long ringlets down their backs; while others tie it into one round bunch on the upper part of their heads, nearly as large as the head itself; and some into six or seven se|parate bunches. They use, for the purpose of daubing or smearing their hair, a greyish clay, mixed with shells reduced to powder, which they keep in balls, and chew into a sort of paste, whenever they intend to make use of it. This composition preserves the smoothness of the hair, and changes it, in process of time, to a palo yellow.

Necklaces, consisting of strings of small varie|gated shells, are worn by both men and women. They also wear an ornament, about two inches in length, and half an inch in breadth, shaped like the handle of a cup, and made of stone, wood, or ivory, extremely well polished; this is hung round the neck by fine threads of twisted hair, which are sometimes doubled an hundred fold. Some of them, instead of this ornament, wear a small human figure on their breast, formed of bone, and suspended in a similar manner.

Both sexes make use of the fan, or fly-flap, by way of use and ornament. The most common sort is composed of cocoa-nut fibres, tied loosely in bunches, to the top of a polished handle. The tail-feathers of the cock, and those of the tropic-bird, are used for the same purpose. Those that are most in esteem, are such as have the handle formed of the leg or arm bones of an enemy killed in battle; these are preserved with extraordinary care, and are handed down, from father to son, as trophies of the highest value.

The practice of tatooing, or puncturing the body, prevails among these people; and of all the islands in this ocean, it is only at New-Zea|land, and the Sandwich Isles, that the face is tatooed. There is this difference between these two nations, that the New-Zealanders perform this operation in elegant spiral volutes, and the

Sandwich Islanders in straight lines, that intersect each other at right angles.

Some of the natives had half their body, from head to foot tatooed, which gave them a most strik|ing appearance. It is generally done with great neatness and regularity. Several of them have only an arm thus marked; others, a leg; some, again, tatoo both an arm and a leg; and others only the hand. The hands and arms of the women are punctured in a very neat manner; and they have a remarkable custom of tatooing the tip of the tongues of some of the females. We had some reason to imagine, that the practice of puncturing is often intended as a sign of mourning, on the decease of a chief, or any other calamitous occurrence: for we were frequently informed that such a mark was in memory of such a chief; and so of the others. The people of the lowest order are tatooed with a particular mark, which distinguishes them as the property of the chiefs to whom they are respective|ly subject.

The common dress of the men of all ranks consists, in general, of a piece of thick cloth called the maro, about a foot in breadth, which passes between the legs, and is fastened round the waist. Their mats, which are of various sizes, but, for the most part, about five feet in length, and four in breadth, are thrown over their shoulders, and brought forward before. These, however, are rarely made use of, except in time

of war, for which purpose they appear to be better calculated than for common use, since they are of a thick heavy texture, and capable of break|ing the blow of a stone or of any blunt weapon. They generally go bare-footed, except when they travel over burnt stones, on which occasion they secure their feet with a kind of sandal, which is made of cords, twisted from cocoa-nut fibres.

Besides their ordinary dress, there is another, which is appropriated to their chiefs, and worn only on extraordinary occasions. It consists of a feathered cloak and cap, or helmet, of uncom|mon beauty and magnificence. This dress having been minutely described, in a former part of our work, we have only to add, that these cloaks are of different lengths, in proportion to the rank of the person who wears them; some trailing on the ground, and others no lower than the middle. The chiefs of inferior rank have likewise a short cloak, which resembles the former, and is made of the long tail-feathers of the cock, the man-of-war bird, and the tropic-bird, having a broad border of small yellow and red feathers, and also a collar of the same. Others are composed of white feathers with variegated borders. The cap or helmet, has a strong lining of wicker-work, sufficient to break the blow of any warlike weapon; for which purpose it appears to be intended. These feathered dresses seemed to be very scarce, and to be worn only by the male sex. During

our whole continuance in Karakakooa Bay, we never observed them used, except on three occa|sions; first in the remarkable ceremony of Ter|reeoboo's first visit to our ships; secondly, by some chiefs, who appeared among the crowd on shore, when our unfortunate commander was killed; and thirdly, when his bones were brought to us by Eappo.

The striking resemblance of this habit to the cloak and helmet which the Spaniards formerly wore, excited our curiosity to enquire, whether there might not be some reasonable grounds for imagining that it had been borrowed from them. After all our endeavours to gain information on this head, we found, that the natives had no immediate acquaintance with any other people whatever; and that no tradition existed among them of these islands having ever before received a visit from such vessels as our's. However, not|withstanding the result of our enquiries on this subject, the form of this habit seems to be a suf|ficient indication of its European origin; parti|cularly when we reflect on another circumstance, viz. that it is a remarkable deviation from the general agreement of dress, which is prevalent among the several branches of this great tribe, dispersed over the Pacific Ocean. From this conclusion, we were induced to suppose, that some Buccaneer, or Spanish ship, might have been wrecked in the neighbourhood of these

islands. When it is considered, that the course of the Spanish trading vessels from Acapulco to Manilla, is not many degrees to the south of the Sandwich Isles, in their passage out, and to the north, on their return, this supposition will not, we think, be deemed improbable.

There is very little difference between the com|mon dress of the men and that of the women. The latter wear a piece of cloth wrapped round the waist, which descends half way down their thighs; and sometimes, during the cool of the evening, they throw loose pieces of fine cloth over their shoulders, like the Otaheitean females. The pan is another dress, which the younger part of the sex often wear; it consists of the thinnest and finest cloth, wrapped several times about the middle, and reaching down to the leg; so that it has the appearance of a full short petticoat. They cut their hair short behind, and turn it up be|fore, as is the custom among the New-Zealanders and Otaheiteans. One woman, indeed, whom we saw in Karakakooa Bay, had her hair arranged in a very singular mode; she had turned it up behind, and having brought it over her forehead, and doubled it back, so that it formed a sort of shade to her face, and somewhat resembled a small bonnet.

Besides their necklaces, which are composed of shells, or of a shining, hard, red berry, they wear dried flowers of the Indian mallow, formed

into wreaths; and likewise another elegant orna|ment, termed craie, which is sometimes fastened round the hair, in the manner of a garland, but is usually put round the neck; though it is occa|sionally worn in both these ways at once, as may be seen in the annexed representation of the wo|man of the Sandwich Islands. It is a kind of ruff, about as thick as a finger, formed with great ingenuity, of very small feathers, woven together so closely, that the surface may be said to equal the richest velvet in smoothness. The ground is, in general, red, with alternate circles of black, yellow, and green.

We have already described their bracelets, of which they have a great variety. Some of the women of Atooi wear small figures of the turtle, made very neatly of ivory or wood, fastened on their fingers in the same manner that rings are worn by us. There is likewise an ornament con|sisting of shells, tied in rows on a ground of strong net-work, so as to strike against each other, while in motion; which both sexes, when they dance, fasten either round the ankles, or just below the knee, or round the arm. They sometimes, in|stead of shells, use for this purpose, the teeth of dogs, and a hard red berry.

Another ornament, if indeed it deserves that appellation, remains to be described. It is a sort of mask, composed of a large gourd, having holes cut in it for the nose and eyes. The top of it is

stuck full of little green twigs, which appear, at some distance, like a waving plume; and the lower part has narrow stripes of cloth hanging from it, somewhat resembling a beard, These masks we never saw worn but on two occasions, and both times by a number of persons assembled in a canoe, who approached the side of the ship, laughing and making droll gesticulations. We could never learn whether they were not also made use of as a defence for the head against stones, or in some of their public sports and games, or were disguised merely for the purposes of mummery.

They dwell together in small towns or villages, which contain from about one hundred to two hundred houses, built pretty close to each other without order or regularity, and have a winding path that leads through them. They are fre|quently flanked towards the sea-side, with loose detached walls, which are, in all probability, in|tended for shelter, and defence. The form of their habitations, we have before described. They are of various dimensions, from forty-five feet by twenty-four, to eighteen by twelve. Some are of a larger size, being fifty feet in length, and thirty in breadth, and entirely open at one end. These, we were informed, were designed for the accommodation of strangers or travellers, whose stay was likely to be short.

Their furniture having been already mention|ed, we have only to add, that, at one end of their houses, are mats, on which they repose, with wooden pillows, or sleeping-stools, perfectly re|sembling those of the Chinese. Some of the best houses have a court-yard before them, railed in very neatly, with smaller habitations for servants erected round it: in this area the family usually eat and sit in the day-time. In the sides of the hills and amongst the steep rocks, we saw several holes or caves, which seemed to be inhabited; but, the entrance being defended by wicker-work, and, in the only one that we visited, a stone fence being observed running across it within, we sup|posed that they were chiefly intended as places of retreat, in case of an attack from enemies.

The people of an inferior class feed principally on fish, and vegetables, such as plantains, bread-fruit, sweet-potatoes, sugar-canes, yams, and taro. To these, persons of superior rank add the flesh of dogs and hogs, dressed after the same method that is practised in the Society's Isles. They like|wise eat fowls of a domestic kind, which, how|ever, are neither plentiful, nor in any great degree of estimation.

Though, on our first arrival at these islands, yams and bread-fruit seemed scarce, we did not find this to be the case on our second visit: it is therefore probable, that, as these vegetable articles were commonly planted in the interior parts of

the country, the islanders had not had sufficient time for bringing them down to us, during our short continuance in Wymoa bay, on our first visit.

They salt their fish, and preserve them in gourd-shells; not, indeed, with a view of providing against an occasional scarcity, but from the incli|nation they have for salted provisions; for we also found, that the chiefs frequently had pieces of pork pickled in the same manner, which they con|sidered as a great delicacy. Their cookery is much the same as at the Friendly and Society Islands; and though some of our people disliked their taro puddings, on account of their sourness, others were of a different opinion. It is remark|able, that they had not acquired the art of pre|serving the bread-fruit, and making of it the sour paste named maihee, as is the practice at the So|ciety Isles; and it afforded us great satisfaction, that we had it in our power to communicate to them this useful secret, in return for the generous and hospitable treatment we received from them.

They are very cleanly at their meals; and their method of dressing both their vegetable and animal food, was universally acknowledged to be superior to ours. The Erees constantly begin their meals with a dose of the extract of pepper-root, or ava, prepared in the usual mode. The women eat apart from the other sex, and are pro|hibited, as before observed, from feeding on pork,

turtle, and some particular species of plantains. Notwithstanding this interdiction, they would privately eat pork with us; but we could never prevail on them to taste the two latter articles of food.

They generally rise with the sun; and, after having enjoyed the cool of the evening, retire to their repose a few hours after sun-set. The Erees are occupied in making canoes and mats; the Towtows are chiefly employed in the planta|tions, and also in fishing; and the women are en|gaged in the manufactory of cloth. They amuse themselves in their leisure hours, with various diversions. Their young persons, of both sexes, are fond of dancing; and, on more solemn oc|casions, they entertain themselves with wrestling and boxing matches, performed after the man|ner of the natives of the Friendly Islands; to whom, however, they are greatly inferior in all these respects.

Their dances, which bear a greater resemblance to those of the New-Zealanders, than of the Friendly or Society Islanders, are introduced with a solemn kind of song, in which the whole number join, the same time slowly moving their legs, and gently striking their breasts; their attitudes and manner being very easy and graceful. So far they resemble the dances of the Society Isles. After this has continued for the space of about ten minutes, they gradually quicken both the

tune and the motions, and do not desist till they are oppressed with fatigue. This part of the per|formance is the counterpart of that of the inha|bitants of New-Zealand; and, as among those people, the person whose action is the most vio|lent, and who continues this exercise the longest, is applauded by the spectators as the best dancer. It must be remarked, that, in this dance, the females only engage; and that the dances of the men resemble what we saw of the small parties at the Friendly Isles; and which may, perhaps, more properly be termed the accompaniment of songs, with correspondent motions of the whole body. But as we saw some boxing exhibitions, of the same kind with those we had seen at the Friendly Isles, it is not improbable that they had likewise here their grand ceremonious dances, wherein numbers both of men and women were performers.

The music of these people is of a rude kind; for the only musical instruments that we observed among them, were drums of various sizes. Their songs, however, which they are said to sing in parts,* 1.7 and which they accompany with a gentle

motion of their arms, like the inhabitants of the Friendly Islands, have a very pleasing effect.

They are greatly addicted to gambling. One of their games resembles our game of draughts; but, from the number of squares, it seems to be much more intricate. The board is of the length of about two feet, and is divided into two hun|dred and thirty-eight squares, fourteen in a row. In this game they use black and white pebbles, which they move from one square to another. Another of their games consists in concealing a stone under some cloth, which is spread out by one of the parties, and rumpled in such a man|ner, that it is difficult to distinguish where the stone lies. The antagonist then strikes, with a stick, that part of the cloth where he supposes the stone to be: and the chances being, upon the whole, against his hitting it, odds of all degrees, varying with the opinion of the dexterity of the parties, are laid on the occasion. Their manner of playing at bowls nearly resembles ours: the bowls have been before described.

They often entertain themselves with races be|tween boys and girls, on which occasions they lay wagers with great spirit. We saw a man beating his breast, and tearing his hair, in the violence of rage, for having lost three hatchets at one of these races, which he had purchased from us with near half his property a very little time before.

Both sexes are surprisingly expert in swimming, which, among these people, is not only deemed a necessary art, but is also a favourite diversion. One particular method, in which we sometimes saw them amuse themselves with this exercise, in Karakakooa Bay, deserves to be related. The surf, that breaks on the coast around this bay, ex|tends about one hundred and fifty yards from the shore; and, within that space, the surges of the sea are dashed against the beach with extreme vio|lence. Whenever the impetuosity of the surf is augmented to its greatest height, they make choice of that time for this amusement, which they perform in the following manner. About twenty or thirty of the islanders take each a long narrow board, rounded at both ends, and set out from the shore in company with each other. They plunge under the first wave they meet, and, after they have suffered it to roll over them, rise again beyond it, and swim further out into the sea. They encounter the second wave in the same manner with the first. The principal difficulty consists in seizing a favourable opportunity of diving under it; for if a person misses the pro|per moment, he is caught by the surf, and forced back with great violence; and his utmost dex|terity is then required, to prevent his being dashed against the rocks. When, in consequence of these repeated efforts, they have gained the smooth water beyond the su•••• ••hey recline themselves at

length upon their board, and prepare for their return to shore. As the surf is composed of a number of waves, of which every third is ob|served to be considerable larger than the rest, and to flow higher upon the shore, while the others break in the intermediate space; their first object is to place themselves on the top of the largest surge, which drives them along with astonishing rapidity towards the land. If they should place themselves, by mistake, on one of the smaller waves, which breaks before they gain the shore, or should find themselves unable to keep their board in a proper direction on the upper part of the swell, they remain exposed to the fury of the next; to avoid which, they are under the neces|sity of diving again, and regaining the place whence they set out. Those persons who suc|ceed in their object of reaching the shore, are still in a very hazardous situation. As the coast is defended by a chain of rocks, with a small opening between them in several places, they are obliged to steer their planks through one of these openings; or, in case of ill success in that re|spect, to quit it before they reach the rocks, and, diving under the wave, make their way back again as well as they are able. This is consi|dered as highly disgraceful, and is attended with the loss of the plank, which we have seen dashed to pieces, at the very instant the native quitted it. The amazing courage and address, with

which they perform these dangerous manoeuvres, are almost incredible.

The following accident shews at how early a period they are so far accustomed to the water, as to lose all apprehensions of it, and set its perils at defiance. A canoe, in which was a woman with her children, happening to be overset, one of the children, an infant about four years of age, appeared to be greatly delighted with what had happened, swimming about at its ease, and playing a number of tricks, till the canoe was brought to its former position.

Among the amusements of the children, we observed one that was frequently played at, and which shewed a considerable share of dexterity. They take a short stick, through one extremity of which runs a peg sharpened at both ends, ex|tending about an inch on each side; then throw|ing up a ball formed of green leaves moulded to|gether, and fastened with twine, they catch it on one of the points of the peg; immediately after which, they throw it up again from the peg, then turn the stick round, and catch the ball on the other point of the peg. Thus, for some time, they continue catching it on each point of the peg alternately, without missing it. They are equally expert at another diversion of a similar nature, throwing up in the air, and catching, in their turns, many of these balls; and we have often seen little children thus keep five balls in

motion at once. This latter game is also prac|tised by the young people at the Friendly Isles.

The figure and dimensions of the canoes seen by us at Atooi, have been already described. Those of the other Sandwich Islands were made exactly in the same manner; and the largest we saw was a double canoe that belonged to Terreeo|boo, measuring seventy feet in length, twelve in breadth, and between three and four in depth; and each was hollowed out of one tree.

Their method of agriculture, as well as naviga|tion, resembles that of the other islands of the Pacific. They have made considerable proficiency in sculpture, and their skill in painting or staining cloth, and in the manufacture of mats, is very great. The most curious specimens of their sculp|ture, that we had an opportunity of observing, were the wooden bowls, in which the Erees drink ava. These are, in general, eight or ten inches in diameter, perfectly round, and extremely well polished. They are supported by three or four small human figures, represented in different attitudes. Some of them rest on the shoul|ders of their supporters, others on the hands ex|tended over the head; and some on the head and hands. The figures are very neatly finished, and accurately proportioned; and even the anatomy of the muscles is well expressed.

They manufacture their cloth in the same man|ner, and of the same materials, as at the Society

and Friendly Isles. That which they intend to paint, is of a strong and thick texture, several folds being beaten and incorporated together; after which they cut it in breadths, two or three feet wide, and then paint it in a great variety of patterns, with such regularity and comprehensive|ness of design, as shew an extraordinary portion of taste and fancy. The exactness with which even the most intricate patterns are continued, is really astonishing, as they have no stamps, and as the whole is performed by the eye, with a piece of bamboo cane dipped in paint; the hand being supported by another piece of the same sort of cane. They extract their colours from the same berries, and other vegetable articles, which are made use of at Otaheite for this pur|pose.

The operation of staining or painting their cloth, is confined to the females, and is deno|minated kipparee. It is remarkable, that they always called our writing by this name. The young women would frequently take the pen from our hands, and shew us, that they were as well acquainted with the use of it as we ourselves were; telling us, at the same time, that our pens were inferior to theirs. They considered a ma|nuscript sheet of paper, as a piece of cloth stri|ped after the mode of our country; and it was with the greatest difficulty that we could make

them understand, that our figures contained a meaning in them which theirs were destitute of.

They make their mats of the leaves of the pan|danus; and these, as well as their cloths, are beautifully worked in various patterns, and stain|ed with various colours. Some of them have a ground of a straw colour, embellished with green spots; others are of a pale green, spotted with squares, or rhomboids, of red; and some are ornamented with elegant stripes, either in straight or waving lines of brown and red. In this branch of manufacture, whether we regard the fineness, beauty, or strength, these islanders may be said to excel the whole world.

Their fishing-hooks are of various sizes and figures; but those which are principally made use of, are about two or three inches in length, and are formed in the shape of a small fish, serving as a bait, with a bunch of feathers fastened to the head or tail. They make their hooks of bone, mother-of-pearl, or wood, pointed and barbed with little bones or tortoise-shells. Those with which they fish for sharks, are very large, being, in general, of the length of six or eight inches. Considering the materials of which these hooks are composed, their neatness and strength are amazing; and, indeed, upon trial, we found them superior to our own.

Of the bark of the touta, or cloth-tree, neatly twisted, they form the line which they use for

fishing, for making nets, and for some other pur|poses. It is of different degrees of fineness, and may be continued to any length. They have also a finer sort, which they make of the bark of a shrub, named areemah; and the finest is com|posed of human hair: this last, however, is chiefly made use of for matters of ornament.

They likewise make cordage of a stronger kind, from cocoa-nut fibres for the rigging of their ca|noes. Some of this, which was purchased by us for our own use, was found to be well calculated for the smaller kinds of running rigging. They also manufacture another sort of cordage, which is flat, and extremely strong, and is principally used for the purpose of lashing the roofs of their houses. This last is not twisted after the manner of the former sorts, but is formed of the fibrous strings of the coat of the cocoa-nut, plaited with the fingers, in the same mode which is practised by our seamen in making their points for the reefing of sails.

They apply their gourds to various domestic purposes. These grow to such an enormous mag|nitude, that some of them will contain from ten to a dozen gallons. In order to adapt them the better to their respective uses, they take care to give them different shapes, by fastening ban|dages round them during their growth. Thus, some of them are in the form of a dish, serving to hold their puddings, vegetables, salted pro|visions,

salt, &c. Others are of a long cylin|drical form, and serve to contain their fishing-tackle, which two sorts are furnished with neat close covers, made also of the gourd. Others are in the shape of a long-necked bottle; and, in these, water is kept. They frequently score them with a heated instrument, so as to commu|nicate to them the appearance of being painted, in a great variety of elegant designs.

Their pans, in which they make salt, are made of earth, lined with clay; and are in general, six or eight feet square, and about two-thirds of a foot in depth. They are elevated on a bank of stones near the high-water mark, whence the salt water is conducted to the bottom of them, in trenches out of which they are all filled; and, in a short time, the sun performs the process of evaporation. The salt we met with at Oneeheow and Atooi, during our first visit, was brownish and rather dirty; but that which we afterwards procured at Karakakooa Bay, was white, and of an excellent quality; and we obtained an ample supply of it, insomuch that, besides the quantity used by us in salting pork, we filled all our empty casks with it.

The warlike weapons of these people are dag|gers, which they call by the name pahooa; spears, slings, and clubs. The pahooa is made of a black heavy wood, that resembles ebony. It is com|monly from one to two feet in length; and has

a string passing through the handle, by which it is suspended to the arm. The blade is somewhat rounded in the middle; the sides are sharp, and terminate in a point. This instrument is intended for close engagements; and, in the hands of the natives, is a very destructive one.

Their spears are of two kinds, and are formed of a hard wood, which, in its appearace, is not un|like mahogany. One sort is from six to eight feet in length, well polished, and increasing gradually in thickness from the extremity till within the distance of six or seven inches from the point, which tapers suddenly, and has five or six rows of barbs. It is probable, that these are used in the way of javelins. The other sort, with which the warriors we saw at Atooi and Owhyhee were chiefly armed, are from twelve to fifteen feet in length; and, instead of being barbed, terminate towards the point in the manner of their daggers.

Their slings are the same with our common slings, except in this respect, that the stone is lodging on matting instead of leather. Their clubs are formed indifferently of several kinds of wood: they are of various sizes and shapes, and of rude workmanship.

CHAP. VIII.

Continuation of the Account of the Sandwich Islands—Division of the People into three classes—Su|perior Power of the Eree-taboo—Genealogical Account of the Kings of Owhyhee and Mowee—Authority of the Erees—Tyranny of Pareea, exer|cised on an inferior Chief—Punishment of Of|fences — Account of their Religion — Society of Priests—The Orono—Idols—Eatooas of deceased Chiefs—Religious Ceremonies, Chantings, &c. previous to the drinking of Ava—Human Sacrifi|ces very frequent among them—Religious Custom of knocking out the Fore-Teeth—Their ideas of a future State—Particular Explanation of the Word Taboo—Marriages—Remarkable Instance of Jea|lousy—Funeral Ceremonies at the Death of an old Chief, &c.

IN the Sandwich Islands, the inhabitants are di|vided into three classes. The Erees, or chiefs of each district, are the first; and one of these is superior to the rest, who is called, at Owhyhee, Eree-taboo, and Eree Moee; the first name ex|pressing his authority, and the latter signifying that, in his presence, all must prostrate them|selves. Those of the second class appear to enjoy a right of property, but have no authority. Those who compose the third class, are called

towtows, or servants, and have not either rank or property.

The superior power and distinction of Ter|reeoboo, the Eree-taboo of Owhyhee, was suffi|ciently evident from his reception at Karakakooa, on his first arrival. The inhabitants all pros|trated themselves at the entrance of their houses; and the canoes were tabooed, till he discharged the interdict. He was then just returned from Mowee, an island he was contending for, in be|half of his son Tewarro, whose wife was the only child of the king of that place, against Tahee|terree, his surviving brother. In this expedi|tion, he was attended by many of his warriors; but we could never learn whether they served him as volunteers, or whether they held their rank and property by that tenure.

That the subordinate chiefs are tributary to him, is evidently proved in the instance of Kaoo, which has been already related. It has also been observed, that the two most powerful chiefs of the Sandwich Islands, are Terreeoboo, and Per|reeoranne; the former being chief of Owhyhee, and the latter of Woahoo; all the smaller isles being governed by one of these sovereigns; Mowee was at this time, claimed by Terreeoboo, for his son and intended successor; Atooi and Oneehow being in the possession of the grandsons of Perreeorannee.

Without entering into the genealogy of the kings of Owhyhee and Mowee, it may be necessary to mention, that when we were first off Mowee, Terreeoboo and his warriors were there to support the claims made by his wife, his son, and his daughter-in-law; and a battle had then been fought with the opposite party, in which Terreeoboo had been victorious. Matters, however, were after|wards compromised; Taheeterree was to have pos|session of the three neighbouring islands, during his life; Teewarro to be acknowledged the Chief of Mowee, and to succeed to Owhyhee, on the death of Terreeoboo; together with the three islands con|tiguous to Mowee, after the decease of Taheeterre. If Teewarro, who has lately married his half sister, should die, and leave no issue behind him, those islands descend to Maiha-maiha, whom we have frequently mentioned, he being the son of Terreeoboo's deceased brother: and should he die without issue it is doubtful who would be the successor, for Terreeoboo's two youngest sons, being born of a mother who had no rank, would be debarred all right of succession. We did not see Queen Rora-rora, whom Terreeoboo had left at Mowee; but we had an opportunity of seeing Kanee Kaberaia, the mother of the two youths of whom he was so extremely fond.

From what has been already mentioned, it appears pretty clearly that their government is

hereditary; whence it appears probable, that the inferior titles as well as property, descend in the same course. Respecting Perreorannee, we only discovered that he is an Eree-taboo; that he was, on some pretence, invading the possession of Ta|heeterree, and that the islands to leeward were go|verned by his grandsons.

The Erees appear to have unlimited power over the inferior classes of people; many instances of which occurred daily whilst we continued among them. On the other hand, the people are implicit|ly obedient. It is remarkable, however, that we never saw the chiefs exercise any acts of cruelty, injustice, or insolence towards them; though they put in practice their power over each other, in a most tyrannical degree: which is fully proved by the two following instances.

One of the lower order of chiefs, having shewn great civility to the master of the ship, on his examination of Karakakooa Bay; Mr. King, some time afterwards, took him on board the Resolu|tion, and introduced him to Captain Cook, who engaged him to dine with us. While we remain|ed at table, Pareea entered, whose countenance manifested the highest indignation at seeing our guest so honourably entertained. He seized him by the hair of the head, and would have dragged him out of the cabin, if the Captain had not interfered. After much altercation, we could obtain no other indulgence (without quarrelling

with Pareea) than that our guest should be per|mitted to remain in the cabin, on condition that he seated himself on the floor, while Pareea occu|pied his place at the table. An instance some|what similar, happened when Terreeoboo came first on board the Resolution; when Maiha-maiha, who attended him, seeing Pareea upon deck, turn|ed him most ignominiously out of the ship; even though we knew Pareea to be a man of the first consequence.

Whether the lower class have their property se|cured, from the rapacity of the great chiefs, we cannot certainly say, but it appears to be well pro|tected against theft and depredation. All their plantations, their houses, their hogs, and their cloth, are left unguarded, without fear or appre|hension. In the plain country, they separate their possessions by walls; and, in the woods where horse plantains grow, they use white flags to dis|criminate property, in the same manner as they do bunches of leaves at Otaheite. These circum|stances strongly indicate, that, where property is concerned, the power of the chiefs is not arbitra|ry; but so far limited, as to afford encouragement to the inferior orders to cultivate the soil, which they occupy distinct from each other.

The information we could obtain, respecting their administration of justice, is exceedingly im|perfect. If a quarrel arose among the lower class of people, the matter was referred to the

decision of some chief. If an inferior chief had offended one of superior rank, his punishment was dictated by the feelings of the superior at that moment. If he should fortunately escape the first transports of his rage, he, perhaps, found means, through the mediation of others, to com|pound for his offence, by all, or a part of his effects.

Their religion resembles that of the Society and Friendly Islands. In common with each other, they have all their Morais, their Whattas their sacred songs, and their sacrifices. These are convincing proofs that their religious opinions are derived from the same source. The ceremo|nies here are, indeed, longer and more numerous than in the islands above-mentioned. And though in all these places, the care and performance of their religious rights, is committed to a particular class of people; yet we have never found a regular society of priests, till we arrived at Kakooa, in Karakakooa Bay. Orono was the title given to the principal of this order; a title which seemed to imply something highly sacred, and which almost received adoration in the person of Omeeah. The privilege of holding the principal offices in this order, is doubtless limited to certain families. Omeeah, the Orono, was Kaoo's son, and Kairee|keea's nephew. Kaireekeea presided in all reli|gious ceremonies at the morai, in the absence of his grandfather. It was observed, likewise, that

the son of Omeeah, an infant of about the age of five years, had always a number of attendants, and such other marks of attention and esteem were shewn him, as we never observed in any similar instance. Hence we concluded, that his life was an object of much consequence, and that he would eventually succeed to the high dignity of his father.

The title of Orono, we have already observed, was bestowed upon Captain Cook; and it is very certain that they considered us as a race of be|ings superior to themselves; frequently repeating, that great Eatooa lived in our country. The fa|vourite little idol (which has been already de|scribed) on the morai, in Karakakooa Bay, is called Koonoorackaiee, and is said to be Terreoboo's god, who also resided amongst us.

Infinite variety of these images were to be seen, both on the morai, and about their houses, on which they bestow different names; but they cer|tainly were held in very little estimation, from their contemptuous expressions of them, and from their exposing them to sale for trifles; though they generally had one particular figure in high favour, to which, whilst it continued a favourite, all their adoration was addressed. They arrayed it in red cloth, beat their drums, and sang hymns before it; placed bunches of red feathers, and different vegetables at its feet; and frequently

exposed a pig, or a dog, to rot on the Whatta, near which it was placed.

A party of us were conducted to a large house, in a bay to the southward of Karakakooa, in which we beheld the black figure of a man, rest|ing on his toes and fingers, and his head was inclined backwards; the limbs were well pro|portioned, and the whole was beautifully polished. This figure was called Maee; round which thir|teen others were placed, with shapes rude and distorted. These, we were told, were the Eatooas of deceased chiefs, whose names they repeated. Plenty of Whattas were seen within the place, with the remains of offerings on many of them. They also admit into their houses, many ludicrous and obscene idols, not unlike the Priapus of the ancients.

Former voyagers have remarked, that the So|ciety and Friendly Islanders, pay adoration to particular birds; and it seems to be a custom that is prevalent in these islands. Ravens are perhaps the object of it here; for Mr. King saw two of these birds perfectly tame, at the village of Kakooa, and was told they were Eatooas; he offered several articles for them, which were all refused; and he was particularly cautioned not to hurt or offend them.

The prayers and offerings, made by the priests before their meals, may be classed among their religious ceremonies. As they always drink ava

before they begin their repast, whilst that is chewing, the superior in rank begins a sort of hymn, in which he is soon after joined by one or more of the company; the bodies of the others are put in motion, and their hands are gently clapped together in concert with the singers. The ava being ready, cups of it are presented to those who do not join in the hymn, which are held in their hands till it is concluded; when, with united voice, they make a loud response, and drink their ava. The performers are then served with some of it which they drink, after the same ceremony has been repeated. And, if any person of a very superior rank should be pre|sent, a cup is presented to him last of all. After chanting for a short time, and hearing a responsive chant from the others, he pours a small quantity on the ground, and drinks the rest. A piece of the flesh, which has been dressed, is then cut off, and, together with some of the vegetables, is placed at the foot of the figure of the Eatooa; and after another hymn has been chanted, they begin their meal. A ceremony, in many re|spects resembling this, is also performed by the chiefs, when they drink ava between their regu|lar meals.

According to the accounts given by the na|tives, human sacrifices are more common here, than in any of the islands we have visited. They have recourse to these horrid rites on the com|mencement

of a war and previous to every great battle, or other signal enterprize. The death of a chief demands a sacrifice of one or more tow|tows, according to the rank he bears; and we were informed that no less than ten were doomed to suffer, on the death of Terreeoboo. This practice, however, is the less horrible, as the un|happy victims are totally unacquainted with their fate. Those who are destined to fall, are attack|ed with large clubs, wherever they may happen to be; and after they are dead, are conveyed to the place where the subsequent rites are to be per|formed. This brings to our remembrance the skulls of those who had been sacrificed on the decease of some principal chief, and were fixed to the morai at Kakooa. At the village of Kow|rowa, we received further information upon this subject; where we were shewn a small piece of ground, within a stone fence, which we were told was an Heree-eere, or burying place of a chief. The person who gave us this information, point|ing to one of the corners added,—and there lie the tangata and waheene-taboo, or the man and woman who became sacrifices at his funeral.

The knocking out their fore-teeth may be, with propriety, classed among their religious customs. Most of the common people, and many of the chiefs, had lost one or more of them; and this we understood was considered as a pro|pitiatory sacrifice to the Eatooa, to avert his

anger; and not like the cutting off a part of the finger at the Friendly Islands, to express the vio|lence of their grief at the decease of a friend.

Of their opinions, with respect to a future state, we had very defective information. On enquiring of them, whither the dead were gone? We were told that the breath, which they seemed to consider as the immortal part, was fled to the Eatooa. They seemed also to give a description of some place, which they suppose to be the abode of the dead; but we could not learn that they had any idea of rewards or punishments.

An explanation of the word taboo, may not, in this place, be improperly introduced. On ask|ing the reason of the intercourse being in••erdicted, between us and the Islanders, the day preceding Terreeoboo's arrival, we were informed, that the bay was tabooed. The same interdiction took place, by our desire, when we interred the remains of Captain Cook. The most implicit obedience, in these two instances, was rendered by the natives; but whether on religious principles, or in deference to civil authority, we cannot pretend to determine.

The ground on which our observatories were fixed, and the place where our masts were depo|sited, were tabooed, and the operation was equally efficacious. This consecration was performed only by the priests; and yet, at our request, the men ventured on the spot which was tabooed;

whence it should seem they entertained no reli|gious apprehensions, their obedience being limit|ed merely to our refusal. No inducements could bring the women near us; on account, it is pre|sumed, of the morai adjoining; which they are, at all times, prohibited from approaching; not only here, but in all the islands of these seas.

Women, it has been observed, are always ta|booed, or forbidden to eat certain articles of food. We have seen many of them, at their meals, have their meat put into their mouths by others; and, on our requesting to know the reason of it, we were informed, that they were tabooed, and not permitted to feed themselves. This prohi|bition was always the consequence of assisting at any funeral, touching a dead body, and many other occasions. The word taboo is indifferently applied, either to persons or things; as, the na|tives are tabooed, the bay is tabooed, &c. This word is also expressive of any thing sacred, de|voted or eminent. The king of Owhyhee was called Eree-taboo, and a human victim, tangata taboo: and, among the Friendly Islanders, Tonga, where the king resides, is called Tongataboo.

Very little can be said respecting their mar|riages, except that such a compact seems to exist among them. It has already been mentioned, that, when Terreeoboo had left his queen Rora-rora at Mowee, another woman cohabited with him, by whom he had children, and seemed par|ticularly

attached to her; but, whether poly|gamy is allowed, or whether it is mixed with concubinage, either among the principal or in|ferior orders, we saw too little of, to warrant any conclusions. From what we saw of the domestic concerns of the lower class of people, one man and one woman seemed to have the direction of the house, and the children were subordinate to them, as in civilized countries.

The following is the only instance of any thing like jealousy, which we have seen among them; and which shews, that among married women of rand not only fidelity, but even a degree of reserve is required.

At one of their boxing matches, Omeah rose two or three times from his place, and approach|ed his wife with strong marks of displeasure, commanding her, as we supposed, to withdraw. Whether he thought her beauty engaged too much of our attention, or whatever might be his motives, there certainly existed no real cause of jealousy. She, however, continued in her place, and, at the conclusion of the entertainment, join|ed our party; and even solicited some trifling presents. She was informed that we had not any about us; but that, if she would accompany us to the tent, she should be welcome to make a choice of what she liked. She was accordingly, proceeding with us; which being observed by Omeah, he followed in great rage, seized her

by the hair, and, with his fists, began to inflict severe corporal punishment. Having been the innocent cause of this extraordinary treatment, we were exceedingly concerned at it; though we understood it would be highly improper for us to interfere, between husband and wife of such su|perior rank. The natives, however, at length, interposed; and the next day, we had the satis|faction of meeting them together, perfectly sa|tisfied with each other; and, what was extremely singular, the lady would not permit us to rally the husband on his behaviour; which we had an in|clination to do; plainly telling us, that he had acted very properly.

At Karakakooa Bay, we had twice an oppor|tunity of seeing a part of their funeral rites. Hearing of the death of an old chief, not far from our observatories, some of us repaired to the place, where we beheld a number of people assembled. They were seated round an area, fronting the house where the deceased lay; and a man, having on a red feathered cap, came to the door, constantly putting out his head, and making a most lamentable howl, accompanied with horrid grimaces, and violent distortions of the face. A large mat was afterwards spread upon the area, and thirteen women and two men, who came out of the house, sat down upon it in three equal rows; three of the women, and the two men, being in front. The women had feathered

ruffs on their necks and hands; and their should|ers were decorated with broad green leaves, cu|riously scolloped. Near a small hut, at one cor|ner of this area, half a dozen boys were placed, waving small white banners, and taboo sticks, who would not suffer us to approach them. Hence we imagined, that the dead body was deposited in the ••ut, but we were afterwards informed that it remained in the house, where the tricks were playing at the door, by the manin the red cap. The company, seated on the mat, sung a melan|choly tune, accompanied with a gentle motion of the arms and body. This having continued some time, they put themselves in a posture between kneeling and sitting, and their arms and bodies into a most rapid motion, keeping pace at the same time with the music. These last exertions being too violent to continue, at intervals they had slower motions. An hour having passed in these ceremonies, more mats were spread upon the area, when the dead chief's widow, and three or four other elderly women, came out of the house with slow and solemn pace; and seated themselves before the compa|ny, began to wail most bitterly, in which they were joined by the three rows of women behind them; the two men appearing melancholy and pensive. They continued thus, with little varia|tion, till late in the evening, when we left them; and, at day-light in the morning, the people

were dispersed, and every thing appeared per|fectly quiet. We were then given to understand, that the body was removed; but we could not learn how it was disposed of. While we were directing our enquiries to this object, we were approached by three women of rank, who signi|fied to us, that our presence interrupted the per|formance of some necessary rites. Soon after we had left them, we heard their cries and lamenta|tions; and when we met them a few hours after|wards, the lower part of their faces were painted perfectly black.

We had also an opportunity of observing the ceremonies on the funeral of one of the ordinary class. Hearing some mournful cries, issuing from a miserable hut, we entered it, and disco|vered two women, which we supposed to be mo|ther and daughter, weeping over the body of a man who had that moment expired. They first covered the body with a cloth; then, lying down by it, they spread the cloth over themselves, be|ginning a melancholy kind of song, often repeat|ing, Aweb medoaah! Aweb tanee! O my father! Oh my husband! In one corner of the house, a young daughter lay prostrate on the ground, having some black cloth spread over her, and re|peating the same expressions. On our quitting this melancholy scene, we found many of their neighbours, collected together at the door, who were all perfectly silent, and attentive to their

lamentations. Mr. King was willing to have em|braced this opportunity of knowing in what man|ner the body would be disposed of; and there|fore, after being convinced that it was not re|moved when he went to bed, he ordered the sentries to walk before the house, and if there were any appearances of removing the body, to acquaint him with it. The sentries, however, were remiss in the performance of their duty, for, before the morning, the body was taken away. On asking how it had been disposed of, they pointed towards the sea, perhaps thereby indicating, that it had been deposited in the deep, or that it had been conveyed to some burying-ground beyond the bay. The place of inter|ment for the chiefs, is the morai, or heree erees, and those who are sacrificed on the occasion, are buried by the side of them. The morai in which the chief was interred, who, after making a spi|rited resistance, was killed in the cave, has a hanging of red cloth round it.

Notes

• * 1.1

  We could not learn with certainty whether this was a name of offi••••▪ or expressive of some degree of affinity.
• * 1.2

  This was Captain Cook's general appellation among the natives of Owhyhee. Sometimes it was applied by them to an invisible being inhabiting heaven. It was also a title of great rank in the Island.
• * 1.3

  Though a view of Karakakoo•• ••ay, by Mr. Webber, has appeared in Captain Cook's Voyage in Quarto, no engraving has there been given of the death of the much-lamented Commander. As so interest|ing a subject will tend to gratify the curiosity of the reader, uncom|mon diligence has been exerted to procure a masterly representation of so affecting a catastrophe.
• * 1.4

  S••r Godsr•••• Copl••y's gold medal was awarded him, on that 〈…〉〈…〉
• * 1.5

  In the language of these islands, the word matee is generally used either to express killing or wounding; and we were afterwards inform|ed, that this chief had only received a trifling blow on the face, from a stone which had been struck by one of our balls.
• * 1.6

  The annexed representation of a man of the Sandwich Isles, was taken from a portrait of our friend Kaneena.
• * 1.7

  The circumstance of their singing in parts, has been doubted by several persons of great skill in music. Captain Burney, however, and Captain Phillips of the marines, both of whom have some knowledge of music, are strongly of opinion, that they did sing, in parts; that is, they sung together in different notes.