Travels through North & South Carolina, Georgia, East & West Florida, the Cherokee country, the extensive territories of the Muscogulges, or Creek Confederacy, and the country of the Chactaws; containing, an account of the soil and natural productions of those regions, together with observations on the manners of the Indians. : Embellished with copper-plates. / By William Bartram.

PART II.

CHAP. I.

WE are, all of us, subject to crosses and disap|pointments, but more especially the traveller; and when they surprise us, we frequently become rest|less and impatient under them: but let us rely on Providence, and by studying and contemplating on works and power of the Creator, learn wisdom and understanding in the economy of nature, and be seriously attentive to the divine monitor within. Let us be obedient to the ruling powers in such things as regard human affairs, our duties to each other, and all crea••ures and concerns that are sub|mitted to our care and controul.

IN the month of March, 1774, I sat off from Sa|vanna, for Florida, proceeding by land to the Ala|tamaha, where I diverted my time agreeably in short excursions, picking up curiosities, until the arrival of a small vessel at Frederica, from Savanna, which was destined to an Indian trading house high up St. John's in East Florida. Upon information of this vessel's arrival, I immediately took boat and descended the Alatamaha, calling by the way of Broughton Island, where I was kindly received by Mr. James Bailey, Mr. Laurens's agent. Leaving Broughton Island in the evening, I continued de|scending the south channel nine or ten miles, when, after crossing the sound, I arrived at Frederica, on the island of St. Simon, where I was well received and entertained by James Spalding, Esq This gen|tleman

carrying on a very considerable trade, and having extensive connections with the Indian tribes of East Florida, furnished me with letters to his agents residing at his trading house, ordering them to furnish me with horses, guides, and every other convenient assistance.

BEFORE the vessel was ready to sail again for St. John's, I had time to explore the island. In the cool of the morning early, I rode out of the town, directing my course to the south end of the island. After penetrating a thick grove of oaks, which al|most surrounded the town on the land side, sudden|ly a very extensive and beautiful green savanna opened to view, in length nearly two miles, and in breadth near a mile, well stocked with horned cat|tle, horses, sheep, and deer. Following an old highway, now out of repair, across the Savanna, I ascended the sloping green bank, and entered a noble forest of lofty pines, and them a venerable grove of Live Oaks, under whose shady spreading boughs opened a spacious avenue, leading to the former seat of General Oglethorp, but now the property of Capt. Raimond Demere. After leav|ing this town, I was led into a high pine forest; the trees were tall, and generally of the species called Broom-pine (P. palustris Linn.) the surface of the ground covered with grass, herbage, and some shrubbery: I continued through this forest nearly in a direct line towards the sea coast, five or six miles, when the land became uneven, with ridges of sand-hills, mixed with sea shells, and co|vered by almost impenetrable thickets, consisting of Live Oaks, Sweet-bay (L. Borbonia) Myrica, Ilex aquisolium, Rhamnus frangula, Cassine, Sideroxy|lon, Ptelea, Halesia, Callicarpa, Carpinus, en|tangled with Smilax, pseudo China, and other

species, Bignonia sempervirens, B. crucigera, Rham|nus volubllis,&c. This dark labyrinth is succeeded by a great extent of salt plains, beyond which the boundless ocean is seen. Betwixt 〈◊〉〈◊〉 dark forest and the salt plains, I crossed a rivulet of fresh wa|ter, where I sat down a while to rest myself, under the shadow of sweet Bays and Oaks; the lively breezes were perfumed by the fragrant breath of the superb Crinum, called, by the inhabitants, White Lilly. This admirable beauty of the sea-coast|islands dwells in the humid shady groves, where the soil is made fertile and mellow by the admixture of sea shells. The delicate structure of its spadix, its green broad leaves, and the texture and whiteness of its flowers, at once charmed me. The Euphor|bia picta, Salvia coccinea, and Ipomea erecta, were also seated in front of my resting peace, as well as the Lycium salsum (perhaps L. Afrum Linn.) a very beautiful ever green shrub, its cerulean flowers, and coral red berries, always on its branches, forming not the least of its beauties.

TIME now admonishing me to rise and be going, I, with reluctance, broke away from this assembly of maritime beauties.

CONTINUING on, southward, the salt plains on my left hand insensibly became narrower, and I at length reached the strand, which was level, firm and paved with shells, and afforded me a grand view of the boundless ocean.

O thou Creator supreme, almighty! how infi|nite and incomprehensible thy works! most perfect, and every way astonishing!

I CONTINUED nearly a mile along this firm sandy beach, the waves of the sea sometimes washing my

horse's feet. I observed a great variety of shell|fish, as Echinitis, Corallinus, Patella, Medusa, Buccina, Concha venerea, Auris ma••ina, Cancer, Squilla, &c. some alive, and others dead, having been cast upon the beach by the seas, in times of tempest, where they became a prey to sea fowl, and other maritime animals, or perished by the heat of the sun and burning sands. At length I doubled the utmost south point of St. Simon's, which forms the north cape of the south channel of the great river Alatamaha. The sound, just within this cape, forms an excellent bay, or cove, on the south end of the island, on the opposite side of which I be|held a house and farm, where I soon arrived. This delightful habitation was situated in the midst of a spacious grove of Live Oaks and Palms, near the strand of the bay, commanding a view of the inlet. A cool area surrounded the low but convenient buildings, from whence, through the groves, was a spacious avenue into the island, terminated by a large savanna; each side of the avenue was lined with bee-hives, to the number of fifty or sixty; they seemed to be well peopled, and exhibited a lively image of a colony that has attained to a state of power and affluence, by the practice of virtue and industry.

WHEN I approached the house, the good man, who was reclining on a bear-skin, spread under the shade of a Live Oak, smoking his pipe, rose and saluted me: "Welcome, stranger, I am indulg|ing the rational dictates of nature, taking a little rest, having just come in from the chace and fish|ing." After some conversation and rest, his ser|vant brought a bowl of honey and water, a very refreshing and agreeable liquor, of which I drank. On rising to take my departure, he objected, and

requested me to stay and dine with him; and on my pleading, for excuse, the necessity of my being at Frederica, "Yet, I pray you, stay a little, I will soon have some refreshment for you." Presently was laid before us a plentiful repast of venison, &c. our drink being honey and water, strengthened by the addition of brandy. Our rural table was spread under the shadow of Oaks, Palms, and Sweet Bays, fanned by the lively salubrious breezes wasted from the spicy groves. Our music was the responsive love-lays of the painted nonpareil, and the alert and gay mockbird; whilst the brilliant humming|bird darted through the flowery groves, suspended in air, and drank nectar from the flowers of the yellow Jasmine, Lonicera, Andromeda, and sweet Azalea.

BUT yet, how awfully great and sublime is the majestic scene east-ward! the solemn sound of the beating surf strikes our ears; the dashing of you liquid mountains, like mighty giants, in vain assail the skies; they are beaten back, and fall prostrate upon the shores of the trembling island.

TAKING leave of my sylvan friend, I sat off on my return to the town, where I arrived before night, having observed, on the way, many curious vegetable productions, particularly Corypha Palma (or great Cabbage Palm) Corypha pumila, Corypha repens, frondibus expansis, flabelliformibus, plica|tis, stipit. spinosis (Dwarf Saw Palmetto) Corypha) obliqua, caudex arboreus adscendens, frondibus expansis, flabelliformibus, plicatis, stipit. serrat••s, Cyrilla, Tillandsia monostachya, Till. lingulata, or Wild Pine; both these curious vegetables are pa|ra••ites, living on the substance of others, particu|larly on the limbs of the Live Oak; the latter spe|cies

is a very large flourishing plant, greatly re|sembling, at some distance, a well grown plant of the Bromelia Ananas: the large deep green leaves are placed in an imbricated order, and ascendant; but their extremities are reflex, their bases gibbous and hollowed, like a ladle, and capable of con|taining near a pint of water: heavy tempests of wind and rain tear these plants from the trees; yet they live and flourish on the earth, under the sha|dow of these great Live Oaks. A very large part of this island had formerly been cleared and planted by the English, as appeared evidently to me, by vestiges of plantations, ruins of costly buildings, highways, &c. but it is now overgrown with forests. Frederica was the first town built by the English in Georgia, and was founded by General Oglethorp, who began and established the colony. The fort|ress was regular and beautiful, constructed chiefly with brick, and was the largest, most regular, and perhaps most costly, of any in North America, of Birtish construction: it is now in ruins, yet occu|pied by a small garrison; the ruins also of the town only remain; peach trees, figs, pomegra|nates, and other shrubs, grow out of the ruinous walls of former spacious and expensive buildings, not only on the town, but at a distance in various parts of the island; yet there are a few neat hou|ses in good repair, and inhabited: it seems now re|covering again, owing to the public and liberal spi|rit and exertions of J. Spalding, Esq who is presi|dent of the island, and engaged in very extensive mercantile concerns.

CHAP. II.

THE vessel, in which I was to embark for East Florida, being now ready to pursue her voyage, we sat sail with a fair wind and tide. Our course was south, through the sound, betwixt a chain of sea|coast-islands, and the main. In the evening we came to, at the south end of St. Simons, having been hindred by the flood tide making against us. The Captain and myself, with one of our crew, went on shore, with a view of getting some venison and sea fowl. We had not the good fortune to see any deer, yet we were not altogether unsuccessful, ha|ving taken three young racoons (Ursus cauda elon|gata) which are excellent meat: we had them for supper, served up in a pillo. Next morning early, we again got under way, running by Jekyl and Cumberland Islands, large, beautiful and fertile, yet thinly inhabited, and consequently excellent haunts for deer, bears and other game.

As we ran by Cumberland Isle, keeping the chan|nel through the sound, we saw a sail a-head coming up towards us. Our Captain knew it to be the trading schooner from the stores on St. John's, and immediately predicted bad news, as she was not to sail, until our arrival there. As she approached us, his apprehensions were more and more confirmed, from the appearance of a number of passengers on deck. We laid to, until she came up, when we hailed her, "What news?" "Bad; the Indians have plundered the upper store, and the traders have escaped, only with their lives." Upon this both vessels came to anchor very near each other, when,

learning the particulars, it appeared, that a large party of Indians, had surprised and plundered two trading houses, in the istmus, beyond the river St. Johns, and a third being timely apprised of their hos|tile intentions, by a faithful runner, had time to carry off part of the effects, which they secreted in a swamp at some distance from it, covering them with skins. The upper store had saved their goods in like man|ner, and the lower store, to which we were bound, had removed the chief of theirs, and deposited them on a small island, in the river, about five miles be|low the store. With these effects was my chest, which I had forwarded in this vessel, from Savanna, not being at that time determined, whether to make this journey by land, or water. The Captain of our vessel, resolved to put about and return to Frederi|ca, for fresh instructions how to proceed; but for my part, I was determined to proceed for the island up St. John's, where my chest was lodged, there be|ing some valuable books and papers in it, which I could not do well without. I accordingly desired our Captain to put me on shore, on Little St. Si|mon's, which was not far distant, intending to walk a few miles to a fort, at the south end of that island, where some fishermen resided, who, as I expected, would set me over on Amelia Island, where was a large plantation, the property of Lord Egmont, a British nobleman, whose agent, while I was at Frederica, gave me an invitation to call on him, as I passed toward East Florida; and here I had expectations of getting a boat to carry me to St. John's. Agreeably to my desire, the Captain put me on shore, with a young man, a passenger, for East Florida, who promised to continue with me, and share my adventures. We landed safely, the Cap|tain wishing us a prosperous journey, returned on

board his vessel, and we proceeded for the fort, en|countering some harsh treatment from thorny thick|ets, and prickly vines. However we reached the fort in the evening. The commander was out in the forest, hunting. My companion being tired, or in|dolent, betook himself to rest, while I made a tour round the south point of the island, walking the shelly paved sea beach, and picking up novelties. I had not gone above a mile, before I came up to a roebuck, lying slain on the sands, and hearing the report of a gun, not far off, and supposing it to be from the Captain of the fort, whom I expected soon to return to take up his game, I retired to a little distance, mounted the sand hills, and sat down, en|joying a fine prospect of the rolling billows and foaming breakers, beating on the bar, and north promontory of Amelia Isle, opposite to me. The Captain of the fort soon came up, with a stain buck on his shoulders. We hailed each other, and re|turned together to the fort, where we were well treated, and next morning, at my request, the Captain obligingly sat us over, landing us safely on Amelia. After walking through a spacious forest of Live Oaks and Palms, and crossing a creek, that ran through a narrow salt marsh, I and my fellow traveller arrived safe at the plantation, where the agent, Mr. Egan, received us very politely and hos|pitably. This gentleman is a very intelligent and able planter, having already greatly improved the estate, particularly in the cultivation of indigo. Great part of this island consists of excellent hom|mocky land, which is the soil this plant delights in, as well as cotton, corn, batatas, and almost e|very other esculent vegetable. Mr. Egan polite|ly rode with me, over great part of the island. On

Egmont estate, are several very large Indian tu|muli, which are called Ogeeche mounts, so named from that nation of Indians, who took shelter here, after being driven from their native settlements on the main near Ogeeche river. Here they were con|stantly harrassed by the Carolinians and Creeks, and at length slain by their conquerors, and their bones intombed in these heaps of earth and shells. I ob|served here the ravages of the common grey catter|pillar, so destructive to forest and fruit trees, in Pennsylvania, and through the northern states, by stripping them of their leaves, in the spring, while young and tender (Phalena periodica.)

MR. Egan having business of importance to trans|act in St. Augustine, pressed me to continue with him, a few days, when he would accompany me to that place, and if I chose, I should have a passage, as far as the Cow-ford, on St. Johns, where he would procure me a boat to prosecute my voyage.

IT may be a subject worthy of some inquiry, why those fine islands, on the coast of Georgia, are so thinly inhabited; though perhaps Amelia may in some degree plead an exemption, as it is a very fer|tile island, on the north border of East Florida, and at the Capes of St. Mary, the finest harbour in this new colony. If I should give my opinion, the fol|lowing seem to be the most probable reasons: the greatest part of these are as yet the property of a few wealthy planters, who having their residence on the continent, where lands on the large rivers, as Savanna, Ogeeche, Altamaha, St. Ille and others, are of a nature and quality adapted to the growth of rice, which the planters chiefly rely upon, for obtaining ready cash, and purchasing family arti|cles; they settle a few poor families on their in|sular

estates, who rear stocks of horned cattle, hor|ses, swine and poultry, and protect the game for their proprietors. The inhabitants of these islands also lay open to the invasion and ravages of pirates, and in case of a war, to incursions from their ene|mies armed vessels, in which case they must either remove with their families and effects to the main, or be stripped of all their movables, and their hou|ses laid in ruins.

THE soil of these islands appears to be particu|larly favourable to the culture of indigo and cotton, and there are on them some few large plantations for the cultivation and manufacture of those valu|able articles. The cotton is planted only by the poorer class of people, just enough for their family consumption: they plant two species of it, the an|nual and West-Indian; the former is low, and planted every year; the balls of this are very large, and the phlox long, strong, and perfectly white; the West-Indian is a tall perennial plant, the stalk somewhat shrubby, several of which rise up from the root for several years successively, the stems of the former year being killed by the winter frosts. The balls of this latter species are not quite so large as those of the herbacious cotton; but the phlox, or wool, is long, extremely fine, silky, and white. A plantation of this kind will last several years, with moderate labour and care, whereas the annual sort is planted every year.

THE coasts, sounds, and inlets, environing these islands, abound with a variety of excellent fish, particularly Rock, Bass, Drum, Mullet, Sheeps|head, Whiting, Grooper, Flounder, Sea-Trout, [this last seems to be a species of Cod] Skate, Skip|jack, Stingray, the Shark, and great Black Sting|ray,

are insatiable cannibals, and very troublesome to the fishermen. The bays and lagoons are stored with oysters and varieties of other shell-fish, crabs, shrimp, &c. The clams, in particular, are large, their meat white, tender, and delicate.

THERE is a large space betwixt this chain of sea|coast-islands and the main land, perhaps generally near three leagues in breadth; but all this space is not covered with water: I estimate nearly two thirds of it to consist of low salt plains, which pro|duce Barilla, Sedge, Rushes, &c. and which border on the main land, and the western coasts of the islands. The east side of these islands are, for the most part, clean, hard, sandy beaches, exposed to the wash of the ocean. Between these islands are the mouths or entrances of some rivers, which run down from the continent, winding about through these low salt marshes, and delivering their waters into the sounds, which are very extensive capacious harbours, from three of five and six to eight miles over, and com|municate with each other by parallel salt rivers, or passes, that flow into the sound: they afford an ex|tensive and secure inland navigation for most craft, such as large schooners, sloops, pettiaugers, boats, and canoes; and this inland communication of wa|ters extend•• along the sea coast with but few and short interruptions, from the bay of Chesapeak, in Virginia, to the Miss••••ippi, and how much farther I know not, perhaps as far as Vera Cruz. Whether this chain of sea-coast-islands is a step, or advance which this part of our continent is now making on the Atlantic ocean, we must leave to future ages to determine. But it seems evident, even to demon|stration, that those sale marshes adjoining the coast of the main, and the reedy and grassy islands and marshes in the rivers, which are now overflowed at

every tide, were formerly high swamps of firm land, affording forests of Cypress, Tupilo, Magnolia gran|diflora, Oak, Ash, Sweet Bay, and other timber trees, the same as are now growing on the river swamps, whose surface is two feet or more above the spring tides that flow at this day; and it is plainly to be seen, by every planter along the coast of Carolina, Georgia, and Florida, to the Missisip|pi, when they bank in these grassy tide marshes for cultivation, that they cannot sink their drains above three or four feet below the surface, before they come to strata of Cypress stumps and other trees, as close together as they now grow in the swamps.

CHAP. III.

BEING now in readiness to prosecute our voyage to St. John's we sat sail in a handsome pleasure|boat, manned with four stout negro slaves, to row in case of necessity. After passing Amelia Nar|rows, we had a pleasant run, across Fort George's sound, where, observing the pelicans fishing, Mr. Egan shot one of them, which we took into the boat. I was greatly surprised on observing the pouch or sack, which hangs under the bill: it is capable of being expanded to a prodigious size. One of the people on board, said, that he had seen more than half a bushel of bran, crammed into one of their pouches. The body is larger than that of a tame goose, the legs extremely short, the feet webbed, the bill of a great length, bent inwards like a scythe, the wings extend near seven feet from tip to tip, the tail is very short, the head, neck and breast, nearly white, the body of a light bluish grey, except the quill feathers of the wings, which are black. They seem to be of the gull kind, both in form and structure, as well as manner of fishing. The evening following, we landed on the main. It was a promontory of high land, covered with o|range-trees, and projecting into the sound, forming a convenient port. We pitched our tent under the shelter of a forest of Live Oaks, Palms and Sweet Bays; and having in the course of the day, procu|red plenty of sea fowl, such as curlews, willets, snipes, sand birds and others; we had them dressed for supper, and seasoned with excellent oysters, which lay in heaps in the water, close to our landing place.

The shrub Capsicum growing here in abundance, af|forded us a very good pepper: we drank of a well of fresh water just at hand, amidst a grove of Myr|tles (Myrica carefera.) Our repose however was incompleat, from the stings of musquetoes, the roa|ring of crocadiles, and the continual noise and res|tlessness of the sea fowl, thousands of them having their roosting-places very near us, particularly loons of various species, herons, pelicans, Spanish curlews, &c. all promiscuously lodging together, and in such incredible numbers, that the trees were entirely co|vered. They roost in inaccessible islets in the salt marshes, surrounded by lagoons, and shallow water. Just without the trees, betwixt them, the water and marshes, is a barricade of Palmetto royal (Yucca gloriosa) or Adam's needle, which grows so thick together, that a rat, or bird, can scarcely pass thro' them; and the stiff leaves of this Sword plant, stand|ing nearly horizontally, are as impenetrable to man, or any other animal, as if they were a regiment of grenadiers with their bayonets pointed at you. The Palmetto royal is, however, a very singular and beau|tiful production. It may be termed a tree, from its durability and magnitude, as likewise from the ligneous quality of its stem, or trunk, when old; yet from its form and texture, I should be inclined to rank it amongst the herbaceous plants, for even the glorious Palm, although it rises to the altitude of a tree, and even transcends most of them, yet it bears the characters of the herbaceous ones: and this, like the Palm tree, rises with a strait, erect stem, about ten or twelve feet high, crowned with a beautiful chaplet of sword or dagger-like leaves, of a perfect green colour, each terminated with a stiff, sharp spur, and their edges finely crenated. This thorny crown is crested with a pyramid of sil|ver

white flowers, each resembling a tulip or lilly. These flowers are succeeded by a large fruit, near|ly of the form and size of a slender cucumber, and when ripe, is of a deep purple colour, the skin smooth and shining, its pulp soft, very juicy, and of an agreeable aromatic slavour but rather bitter to the taste; it is, however, frequently eaten, but if eaten to excess, proves violently purgative. The seeds are numerous, flat and lunated.

THE plant, or tree, when grown old, sometimes divides into two or three stems, which seem of e|qual height and thickness, and indeed nearly of the same thickness with the main stem; but generally, when they arrive to this age and magnitude, their own weight brings them to the ground, where they soon decay, the heart or pith first, leaving a hol|low fibrous reticulated trunk or sleeve, which like|wise soon after decays, and in fine, all is again re|duced to its original earth, and replaces the vege|tative mould. But the deceased are soon replaced by others, as there are younger ones of all ages and stature, ready to succeed their predecessors, and flourish for a time, with the same regal pomp and splendor. These plants are so multitudinous, where|ever they get a footing, that the earth is complete|ly occupied with them, and scarcely any other ve|getable is to be seen, where they are; yet they are sometimes scattered amongst other trees and vege|tables.

IN three days after leaving Amelia, we arrived at the Cow-ford, a public ferry, over St. Johns, a|bout thirty miles above the bar or capes, the river here being above a mile wide.

MR. Egan, after procuring a neat little sail-boat

for me, at a large Indigo plantation near the ferry, and for which I paid three guineas, departed for St. Augustine, which is on the sea-coast, about forty|five miles over land.

IT was now about the middle of April, vegetati|on appearing every where in high progress, I was anxious to be advancing southerly; and having at this plantation, stored myself with necessaries for my voyage, I sailed in the morning, with a fair wind. I was now again alone, for the young man my fellow traveller, though stouter and heartier than myself, having repented of his promise to ac|company me, to the Indian trading houses, I sup|pose not relishing the hardships and dangers, which might perhaps befall us, chose rather to stay behind, amongst the settlements. His leaving me, however, I did not greatly regret, as I could not consider it a disappointment much to my disadvantage at the moment. Our views were probably totally oppo|site; he, a young mechanic on his adventures, seemed to be actuated by no other motives, than either to establish himself, in some well inhabited part of the country, where, by following his occupations, he might be enabled to procure without much toil and danger, the necessaries and conveniencies of life; or by industry and frugality, perhaps establish his fortune. Whilst I, continually, impelled by a rest|less spirit of curiosity, in pursuit of new producti|ons of nature, my chief happiness consisted in tra|cing and admiring the infinite power, majesty and perfection of the great Almighty Creator, and in the contemplation, that through divine aid and per|mission, I might be instrumental in discovering, and introducing into my native country, some original

productions of nature, which might become useful to society. Each of our pursuits, were perhaps e|qually laudable; and upon this supposition, I was quite willing to part with him upon amicable terms.

MY little vessel being furnished with a good sail, and having fishing tackle, a neat light fusee, pow|der and ball, I found myself well equipped, for my voyage, about one hundred miles to the trading house.

I CROSSED the river to a high promontory of wood-land, on the west shore, and being struck with the magnificence of a venerable grove of Live Oak, Palms and Laurel (Magnolia grandiflora) I stepped on shore to take a view of the place. Orange trees were in full bloom, and filled the air with frag|rance.

It was now past noon, and this place being about eight miles above the Cow-ford, and the river near three miles in breadth, I wanted to reach a planta|tion in sight, on the opposite shore, in order to get some repairs, my vessel having sustained some da|mage from the violence of the wind, in crossing o|ver. I arrived late in the evening, and 〈◊〉〈◊〉 convenient landing place and harbour, I concluded to remain here till morning, and then coast it, close along shore to the plantation.

IT beginning to thunder, I was sufficiently war|ned to prepare against a wet night, and observing a very large Oak tree, which had been thrown down, by a hurricane and offered me a convenient shelter, as its enormous limbs bore up the trunk, a sufficient height from the earth, to admit me to sit or lie down under it, I spread my sail, slanting from the trunk of the tree, to the ground, on the

windward side; and having collected a quantity of wood, sufficient to keep up a fire, during the night, I struck one up in front, and spreading skins on the ground, and upon these placing a blanket, one half I laid down upon, turning the other over me for a covering.

THE storm came up, with a furious wind and tremendous thunder and lightning, from the oppo|site N. W. coast, but luckily for me, little rain fell, and I rested very well. But as the wind next morning blew very fresh, right in upon the shore, there was no possibility of moving, with safety, from my present situation. I however arose to reconnoitre the ground, round about my habitati|on, being roused by the report of a musquet not far off. I had not left sight of my encampment, following a winding path through a grove of Live Oak, Laurel (Magn. grandiflora) and Sapin|dus, before an Indian stepped out of a thicket and crossed the path just before me, having a large turkey cock, slung across his shoulders, he saw me and stepping up and smiling, spoke to me in English, bidding me good-morning. I saluted him with "Its well brother," led him to my ••amp, and treated him with a dram. This friendly Indian informed me that he lived at the next plantation, employed as a hunter, I asked him how far it was to the house; he answered about half a mile by land, and invited me to go there, tell|ing me that his master was a very good, kind man, and would be glad to see me. I replied, that I would, if my boat and effects in the mean time could be safe, he said that he would immediately return to the house, and acquaint his master of it, who would send trusty Negroes to bring my vessel

round the point, to the landing, I thanked him for his civility, and not willing to be troublesome, I told him I would leave my boat, and follow after him; so taking my fusee on my shoulder, and after dragging my bark as high up on shore as I could, I followed the Indian, and soon reached the house.

THE gentleman received me, in the most polite manner, and after hearing my situation, he re|quested me to make my abode with him, a few days, to rest and refresh myself. I thanked him and told him I would stay a day. He imme|diately sent slaves who brought my boat round, and having carpenters at work, on a new building, he sat them about repairing my vessel, which by night was completely refitted.

I SPENT the day in the most agreeable manner, in the society of this man of singular worth, he led me over his extensive improvements, and we returned in company with several of his neighbours. In the afternoon the most sultry time of the day, we retired to the fragrant shades of an Orange grove. The house was situated on an eminence, about one hundred and fifty yards, from the river. On the right hand was the Orangery, consisting of many hundred trees, natives of the place, and left standing, when the ground about it was cleared. These trees where large, flourishing and in perfect bloom▪ and loaded with their ripe ••olden fruit. On the other side was a spa••ious garden, occupy|ing a regular slope of ground, down to the water; and a pleasent lawn lay between. Here were large plantations of the Indigo plant, which ap|peared in a very thriving condition: it was then about five or six inches high, growing in streight parallel rows, about eighteen inches apart. The

Corn (Zea) and Potatoes (Convolv. Batata) were greatly advanced in growth, and promised a plen|tiful crop. The Indigo made in East Florida is esteemed almost equal to the best Spanish, especi|ally that sort, which they call Flora. Mr. Mar|shall presented me, with a specimen of his own manufacture, at this plantation: it was very little, if any inferior; to the best Prussian blue.

IN the morning following, intimating my inten|tions of proceeding on my voyage, Mr. Marshall, again importuned me to stay, but I obtained his consent to depart, on my promising to visit him, at my return to Georgia. After breakfast I there|fore took my leave, attended to the shore, by several slaves, loaded with ammunition and pro|visions, which my friend had provided for me. On my expressing some difficulty in receiving so large a share of his bounty, he civilly replied, that it was too little to mention, and that, if I had continued with him a day or two longer, he should have had time to have served me in a much better manner.

TAKING my leave of Mr. Marshall, I again embarked alone on board my little vessel, and blessed with a favourable steady gale, I set sail. The day was extremely pleasant, the late thunder storm had purified the air, by disuniting and dissi|pating the noxious vapours. The falling of heavy showers, with thunder and brisk winds, from the cool regions of the N. W. contributes greatly towards restoring the salubrity of the air, and purity of the waters, by precipitating the putres|cent scum, that rises from the bottom, and floats upon the surface, near the shores of the rivers, in these southern climates, during the hot seasons. The

shores of this great river St. Juan, are very leve•• and shoal, extending in some places, a mile or two, into the river, betwixt the high land, and the clear waters of the river, which is so level, as to be covered not above a foot or two deep, with water, and at a little distance appears as a green meadow having water-grass and other amphibious vegetables, growing in the oozy bottom, and floating upon the water.

HAVING a lively leading breeze, I kept as near the East shore, as possible, often surprised by the plunging of alligators, and greatly delighted with the pleasing prospect of cultivation, and the encrease of human industry, which frequently struck my view from the elevated, distant shores.

AT night I ran in shore, at a convenient harbour, where I was received and welcomed by the gen|tleman, who was agent for the plantation, and at whose pleasant habitation, near the harbour, I took up my quarters for the night.

THIS very civil man, happened to be a person with whom I had formerly been acquainted in St. Augustine; and as he lived about twenty miles dis|tant from it, I had good reason to expect that he would be a proper person, to obtain intelligence from, concerning the disturbances, which were thought still to subsist, between the Lower Creeks and the white inhabitants of East Florida. Upon enquiry, and conversation with him, I found my conjectures on that head, to have been well founded. My friend informed me, that there had, but a few days since, been a counsel held at St. Augustine, between the governor of East Florida, and the chiefs of the Lower Creeks. They had been delegated by their

towns, to make enquiry, concerning the late alarm and depredations, committed by the Indians upon the traders, which the nation being apprised of, re|commended these deputies to be chosen and sent, as soon as possible, in order to make reasonable con|cessions, before the flame, already kindled, should spread into a general war. The parties according|ly met in St. Augustine, and the affair was amica|cably adjusted, to the satisfaction of both parties. The chiefs of the delinquent bands, whose young warriors had commited the mischief, promissed to indemnify the traders for the loss of their goods, and requested that they might return to their store|houses, with goods as usual, and that they should be safe in their persons and property, The traders at this time, were actually preparing to return. It ap|peared upon a strict investigation of facts, that the affair had taken its rise from the licentious conduct of a few vagrant young hunters of the Siminole na|tion, who, imagining themselves to have been ill treated, in their dealings, with the traders (which by the bye was likely enough to be true) took this violent method of doing themselves justice. The culprits however endeavoured to exculpate them|selves, by asserting, that they had no design or in|tention of robbing the traders of their effects, but meant it only as a threat, and that the traders, from conciousness of their dishonesty, had been terrifi|ed and fled, leaving their stores, which they took ••••ssession of, to prevent their being totally lost. ••is troublesome affair being adjusted, was very agreeable news to me, as I could now, without ap|prehensions, ascend this grand river, and visit its delightful shores, where, and when I pleased.

BIDDING adieu to my obliging friend, I spread my sail to the favourable breeze, and by noon, came to

a-breast of fort Picolata, where, being desirous of gaining yet farther intelligence, I landed, but to my disappointment, found the fort dismantled and deserted. This fortress is very ancient, and was built by the Spaniards. It is a square tower, thirty feet high, invested with a high wall, without bastions, about breast high, pierced with loop holes and sur|rounded with a deep ditch. The upper story is o|pen on each side, with battlements, supporting a cupola or roof: these battlements were formerly mounted with eight four pounders, two on each side.

THE works are constructed with hewn stone, ce|mented with lime. The stone was cut out of quar|ries, on St. Anastatius Island, opposite St. Augustine: it is of a pale redish brick colour, and a testacious composition, consisting of small fragments of sea|shells and fine sand. It is well adapted to the con|structing of fortifications. It lies in horizontal mas|ses in the quarry, and constitutes the foundation of that island. The castle at St. Augustine, and most of the buildings of the town, are this stone.

LEAVING Picolata, I continued to ascend the ri|ver. I observed this day, during my progress up the river, incredible numbers of small flying insects, of the genus, termed by naturalists, Ephemera, con|tinually emerging from the shallow water, near shore, some of them immediately taking their flight to the land, whilst myriads, crept up the grass and herbage, where remaining, for a short time, as they acquired sufficient strength, they took their flight also, following their kindred, to the main land. This resurrection from the deep, if I may so ex|press it, commences early in the morning, and ceases after the sun is up. At evening they are seen in

clouds of innumerable millions, swarming and wan|toning in the still air, gradually drawing near the river, descend upon its surface, and there quickly end their day, after committing their eggs to the deep; which being for a little while tossed about, enveloped in a viscid scum, are hatched, and the little Larva descend into their secure and dark habitation, in the oozy bed beneath, where they remain, gradually increasing in size, until the re|turning spring; they then change to a Nymph, when the genial heat brings them, as it were, into exist|ence, and they again arise into the world. This fly seems to be delicious food for birds, frogs and fish. In the morning, when they arise, and in the evening, when they return, the tumult is great in|deed, and the surface of the water along shore bro|ken into bubbles, or spirted into the air, by the contending aquatic tribes, and such is the avidity of the fish and frogs, that they spring into the air, after this delicious prey.

EARLY in the evening, after a pleasant days voyage, I made a convenient and safe harbour, in a little lagoon, under an elevated bank, on the West shore of the river, where I shall intreat the reader's patience, whilst we behold the closing scene of the short-lived Ephemera, and communicate to each other the reflections which so singular an ex|hibition might rationally suggest to an inquisitive mind. Our place of observation is happily situa|ted, under the protecting shade of majestic Live Oaks, glorious Magnolias and the fragrant Orange, open to the view of the great river, and still waters of the lagoon just before us.

AT the cool eves approach, the sweet enchanting

melody of the feathered songsters gradually ceases, and they betake themselves to their leafy coverts for security and repose.

SOLEMNLY and slowly move onward, to the ri|ver's ••hore, the rustling clouds of the Ephemera. How awful the procession! innumerable millions of winged beings, voluntarily verging on to destructi|on, to the brink of the grave, where they behold bands of their enemies with wide open jaws, ready to receive them. But as if insensible of their dan|ger, gay and tranquil each meets his beloved mate, in the still air, inimitably bedecked in their new nuptial robes. What eye can trace them, in their varied wanton amorous chaces, bounding and flut|tering on the odoriferous air? with what peace, love and joy, do they end the last moments of their existence?

I THINK we may assert, without any fear of ex|aggeration, that there are annually of these beau|tiful winged beings, which rise into existence, and for a few moments take a transient view of the glo|ry of the Creator's works, a number greater than the whole race of mankind that have ever existed since the creation; and that only, from the shores of this river. How many then must have been pro|duced since the creation, when we consider the number of large rivers in America, in comparison with which, this river is but a brook or rivulet.

THE importance of the existence of these beauti|ful and delicately formed little creatures, in the cre|ation, whose frame and organization is equally won|derful, more delicate, and perhaps as complicated as that of the most perfect human being, is well worth a few moments contemplation; I mean par|ticularly

when they appear in the fly state. And it we consider the very short period, of that stage of existence, which we may reasonably suppose, to be the only space of their life that ad••its of pleasure and enjoyment, what a lesson doth it not afford us of the vanity of our own pursuits.

THEIR whole existence in this world, is but one compleat year, and at least three hundred and six|ty days of that time, they are in the form of an ug|ly grub, buried in mud, eighteen inches under wa|ter, and in this condition scarcely locomotive, as each Larva or grub, has but its own narrow solita|ry cell, from which it never travels, or moves, but in a perpendicular progression, of a few inches, up and down, from the bottom to the surface of the mud, in order to intercept the passing atoms for its food, and get a momentary respiration of fresh air; and even here it must be perpetually on its guard, in order to escape the troops of fish and shrimps, watching to catch it, and from whom it has no e|scape, but by instantly retreating back into its cell. One would be apt almost to imagine them created merely for the food of fish and other animals.

HAVING rested very well during the night, I was awakened in the morning early, by the cheering converse of the wild turkey-cook (Meleagris occi|dentalis) saluting each other, from the sun-bright|ened tops of the lofty Cupressus disticha and Mag|nolia grandiflora. They begin at early dawn, and continue till sun rise, from March to the last of April. The high forests ring with the noise, like the crowing of the domestic cock, of these social centinels, the watch-word being caught and re|peated, from one to another, for hundreds of miles

around; insomuch that the whole country, is for an hour or more, in an universal shout. A little after sun-rise, their crowing gradually ceases, they quit their high lodging places, and alight on the earth, where, expanding their silver bordered train, they strut and dance round about the coy female, while the deep forests seem to tremble with their shrill noise.

THIS morning the winds on the great river, were high and against me, I was therefore obliged to keep in port, a great part of the day, which I em|ployed in little excursions round about my encamp|ment. The Live Oaks are of an astonishing mag|nitude, and one tree contains a prodigious quantity of timber, yet comparatively, they are not tall, e|ven in these forests, where growing on strong land, in company with others of great altitude (such as Fagus sylvatica, Liquid-amber, Magnolia grandi|flora, and the high Palm tree) they strive while young to be upon an equality with their neighbours, and to enjoy the influence of the sun-beams, and of the pure animating air; but the others at last prevail, and their proud heads are seen at a great distance, towering far above the rest of the forest, which con|sists chiefly of this species of oak, Fraxinus, Ulmus, Acer rubrum, Laurus Borbonia, Quercus dentata, I|lex aquifolium, Olea Americana, Morus, Gleditsia triacanthus, and I believe a species of Sapindus. But the latter spreads abroad his brawny arms, to a great distance. The trunk of the Live Oak is generally from twelve to eighteen feet in girt, and rises ten or twelve feet erect from theearth; some I have seen eighteen or twenty; then di|vides itself into three, four, or five great limbs,

which continue to grow in nearly an horizontal di|rection, each limb forming a gentle curve, or arch, from its base to its extremity. I have stepped a|bove fifty paces, on a strait line, from the trunk of one of these trees, to the extremity of the limbs. They are ever green, and the wood almost incor|ruptible, even in the open air. It bears a prodi|gious quantity of fruit; the acorn is small, but sweet and agreeable to the taste when roasted, and is food for almost all animals. The Indians obtain from it a sweet oil, which they use in the cooking of hommony, rice, &c. and they also roast them in hot embers, eating them as we do chesnuts.

THE wind being fair in the evening, I sat sail again, and crossing the river, made a good harbour on the East shore, where I pitched my tent for the night. The bank of the river was about twelve or fifteen feet perpendicular, from its surface, but the ascent gentle. Although I arrived here early in the even|ing, I found sufficient attractions to choose it for my lodging-place, and an ample field for botanical em|ployment. It was a high, airy situation, and com|manded an extensive and varied prospect of the ri|ver and its shores, up and down.

BEHOLD yon promontory, projecting far into the great river, beyond the still lagoon, half a mile distance from me, what a magnificent grove arises on its banks! how glorious the Palm! how ma|jestically stands the Laurel, its head forming a per|fect cone! its dark green foliage, seems silvered over with milk-white flowers. They are so large, as to be distinctly visible at the distance of a mile or more. The Laurel Magnolia, which grows on this river are the most beautiful and tall, that I have any where seen, unless we except those, which stand

on the banks of the Mississippi; yet even these must yield, to those of St. Juan, in neatness of form, beauty of foliage, and I think, largeness and fragrance of flower. Their usual height is about one hundred feet, and some greatly exceed that. The trunk is perfectly erect, rising in the form of a beautiful column, and supporting a head like a an obtuse cone. The flowers are on the extremi|ties of the subdivisions of the branches, in the cen|ter of a coronet of dark green, shining, ovate pointed entire leaves: they are large, perfectly white, and expanded like a full blown Rose. They are polypetalous, consisting of fifteen, twenty, or twenty-five petals: these are of a thick coriaceous texture, and deeply concave, their edges being somewhat reflex, when mature. In the center stands the young cone, which is large, of a flesh colour, and elegantly studded with a gold colour|ed stigma; that by the end of summer, is greatly enlarged, and in the autumn ripens to a large crimson cone of strobile, disclosing multitudes of large coral red berries, which for a time hang down from them, suspended by a fine, white silky thread, four, six, to nine inches in length. The flowers of this tree are the largest, and most com|pleat of any 〈◊〉〈◊〉 known: when fully expanded, they are of six, eight and nine inches diameter. The pericarpium and berries, possess an agreeable spicy scent, and an aromatic bitter taste. The wood when seasoned is of a straw colour, compact, and harder and firmer than that of the Poplar.

IT is really astonishing to behold the Grape-Vine; in this place. From their bulk and strength, one would imagine, they were combined to pull down these mighty trees, to the earth, when in fact, a|mongst

other good purposes, they serve to uphold them: they are frequently nine, ten, and twelve inches in diameter, and twine round the trunks of the trees, climb to their very tops, and then spread along their limbs, from tree to tree, through-out the forest; the fruit is but small and ill tasted. The Grape vines with the Rhamnus volubilis, Big|nonia radicans, Bignonia crucirgera, and another rambling shrubby vine, which seems allied to the Rhamnus, perhaps Zizyphus Scandens, seem to tie the trees together, with garlands and festoons, and form enchanting shades. The long moss, so called, (Tillandsea usneascites) is a singular and surprising vegetable production: it grows from the limbs and twigs of all trees in these southern regions, from N. lat. 35 down as far as 28, and I believe every where within the tropics. Wherever it fixes itself, on a limb, or branch, it spreads into short and in|tricate divarications; these in time collect dust, wafted by the wind, and which, probably by the moisture it absorbs, softens the bark and sappy part of the tree, about the roots of the plant, and ren|ders it more fit for it to establish itself; and from this small beginning, it encreases, by sending down|wards and obliquely, on all sides, long pendant branches, which divide and subdivide themselves ad infinitum. It is common to find the spaces, be|twixt the limbs of large trees, almost occupied by this plant; it also hangs waving in the ••ind, like streamers, from the lower limbs, to the length of fifteen or twenty feet, and of bulk and weight, more than several men together could carry; and in some places, cart loads of it are lying on the ground, torn off, by the violence of the wind. Any part of the living plant, torn off and caught, in the limbs of a tree, will presently take root,

grow and encrease, in the same degree of perfec|tion, as if it had sprung up from the seed. When fresh, cattle and deer will eat it in the winter sea|son. It seems particularly adapted to the purpose of stuffing mattrasses, chairs, saddles, collars, &c. and for these purposes, nothing yet known equals it. The Spaniards in South America, and the West-Indies, work it into cables that are said to be very strong and durable; but, in order to render it use|ful, it ought to be thrown into shallow ponds of water, and exposed to the sun, where it soon rots, and the outside furry substance is dissolved. It is then taken out of the water, and spread to dry; when, after a little beating and shaking, it is suffi|ciently clean, nothing remaining but the interior, hard, black, elastic filament, entangled together, and greatly resembling horse-hair.

THE Zanthoxilum clava Herculis also grows here. It is a beautiful spreading tree, and much like a well grown apple tree. Its aromatic berry is delicious food for the little turtle dove; and epi|cures say that it gives their flesh a fine flavor.

HAVING finished my observations, I betook my|self to rest; and when the plunging and roaring of the crocodiles, and the croaking of the frogs, had ceased, I slept very well during the remainder of the night, as a breeze from the river had scattered the clouds of musquitoes that at first infested me.

IT being a fine cool morning, and fair wind, I sat sail early, and saw, this day, vast quantities of the Pistia stratiotes, a very singular aquatic plant. It associates in large communities, or sloating islands, some of them a quarter of a mile in ex|tent, and are impelled to and fro, as the wind and

current may direct. They are first produced on, or close to the shore, in eddy water, where they gra|dually spread themselves into the river, forming most delightful green plains, several miles in length, and in some places a quarter of a mile in breadth. These plants are nourished and kept in their proper horizontal situation, by means of long fibrous roots, which descend from the nether center, downwards, towards the muddy bottom. Each plant, when full grown, bears a general resemblance to a well grown plant of garden lettice, though the leaves are more nervous, of a firmer contexture, and of a full green colour, inclining to yellow. It vegetates on the surface of the still stagnant water, and in its natural situation, is propagated from seed only. In great storms of wind and rain, when the river is suddenly raised, large masses of these floating plains are broken loose, and driven from the shores, into the wide water, where they have the appearance of islets, and float about, until bro|ken to pieces by the winds and waves; or driven again to shore, on some distant coast of the ri|ver, where they again find footing, and there, form|ing new colonies, spread and extend themselves a|gain, until again broken up and dispersed as before. These floating islands present a very entertaining prospect; for although we behold an assemblage of the primary productions of nature only, yet the ima|gination seems to remain in suspence and doubt; as in order to enliven the delusion and form a most picturesque appearance, we see not only flowery plants, clumps of shrubs, old weather-beaten trees, hoary and barbed, with the long mess waving from their snags, but we also see them compleatly inha|bited, and alive with crocodiles, 〈◊〉〈◊〉, frogs, ot|ters

crows, herons, curlews, jackdaws, &c. there seems, in short, nothing wanted but the appearance of a wigwam and a canoe to complete the scene.

KEEPING along the West or Indian shore, I saw basking, on the sedgy banks, numbers of alligators * 1.1 some of them of an enormous size.

THE high forests on this coast, now wore a grand and sublime appearance, the earth rising gradually, from the river Westward, by easy swelling ridges, behind one another, and lifted the distant groves up into the skies. The trees are of the lofty kind, as the grand Laurel Magnolia, Palm elata, Liquid-am|ber styraciflua, Fagus sylvatica, Querci, Juglans hiccory, Fraxinus, and others.

ON my doubling a long point of land, the river appeared surprisingly widened, forming a large bay, of an oval form, and several miles in extent. On the west side it was bordered round with low marsh|es, and invested with a swamp of Cypress, the trees so lofty, as to preclude the sight of the high-land forests, beyond them; and these trees, having flat tops, and all of equal height, seemed to be a green plain, lifted up and supported upon columns in the air, round the West side of the bay.

THE Cupressus disticha stands in the first order of North American trees. Its majestic stature is surprising, and on approaching them, we are struck with a kind of awe, at beholding the stateliness of the trunk, lifting its cumbrous top towards the skies, and casting a wide shade upon the ground, as a dark intervening cloud, which, for a time, precludes

the rays of the sun. The delicacy of its colour, and texture of its leaves, exceed every thing in vege|tation. It generally grows in the water, or in low flat lands, near the banks of great rivers and lakes, that are covered, great part of the year, with two or three feet depth of water, and that part of the trunk, which is subject to be under water, and four or five feet higher up, is greatly enlarged, by pro|digious buttresses, or pilasters, which, in full grown trees, project out on every side, to such a distance, that several men might easily hide themselves in the hollows between. Each pilaster terminates un|der ground, in a very large, strong, serpentine root, which strikes off, and branches every way, just under the surface of the earth; and from these roots grow woody cones, called cypress knees, four, five, and six, feet high, and form six to eighteen inches and two feet in diameter at their bases. The large ones are hollow, and serve very well for bee|hives; a small space of the tree itself is hollow, nearly as high as the buttresses already mentioned. From this place the tree, as it were, takes another beginning, forming a grand strait column eighty or ninety feet high, when it divides every way a|round into an extensive flat horizontal top, like an umbrella, where eagles have their secure nests, and cranes and storks their temporary resting places; and what adds to the magnificence of their appear|ance, is the streamers of long moss that hang from the lofty limbs and float in the winds. This is their majestic appearance, when standing alone, in large rice plantations, or thinly planted on the banks of great rivers.

PAROQUETS are commonly seen hovering and slut|tering on their tops: they delight to shell the

balls, its seed being their favourite food. The trunks of these trees when hollowed out, make large and durable pettiaugers and canoes, and af|ford excellent shingles, boards, and other timber, adapted to every purpose in frame buildings. When the planters fell these mighty trees, they raise a stage round them, as high as to reach above the buttresses; on this stage, eight or ten negroes ascend with their axes, and fall to work round its trunk. I have seen trunks of these trees that would measure eight, ten, and twelve feet in diameter, for forty and fifty feet strait shaft.

As I continued coasting the Indian shore of this bay, on doubling a promontory, I suddenly saw be|fore me an Indian settlement, or village. It was a fine situation, the bank rising gradually from the water. There were eight or ten habitations, in a row, or street, fronting the water, and about fifty yards distance from it. Some of the youth were naked, up to their hips in the water, fishing with rods and lines, whilst others, younger, were divert|ing themselves in shooting frogs with bows and ar|rows. On my near approach, the little children took to their heels, and ran to some women, who were hoeing corn; but the stouter youth stood their ground, and smiling, called to me. As I passed along, I observed some elderly people re|clined on skins spread on the ground, under the cool shade of spreading Oaks and Palms, that were ranged in front of their houses; they arose, and eyed me as I passed, but perceiving that I kept on, without stopping, they resumed their former po|sition. They were civil, and appeared happy in their situation.

THERE was a large Orange grove at the upper

end of their village; the to trees were large, care|fully pruned, and the ground under them clean, open, and airy. There seemed to be several hun|dred acres of cleared land, about the village; a considerable portion of which was planted, chiefly with corn (Zea) Batatas, Beans, Pompions, Squash|es, (Cucurbita verrucosa) Melons (Cucurbita ci|trullus) Tobacco (Nicc••nana) &c. abundantly suf|ficient for the inhabitants of the village.

AFTER leaving this village, and coasting a con|siderable cove of the lake, I percieved the river be|fore me much contracted within is late bounds, but still retaining the appearance of a wide and deep river, both coasts bordered, for several miles, with rich deep swamps, well timbered with Cypress, Ash, Elm, Oak, Hiccory, Scarlet Maple, Nyssa aquatica, Nyssa tupilo, Gordonia lasianthus, Cory|pha palma, Corypha pumila, Laurus Borbonia, &c. The river gradually narrowing, I came in sight of Charlotia, where it is not above half a mile wide, but deep; and as there was a considerable current against me, I came here to an anchor. This town was founded by Den. Rolle, Esq and is situated on a high bluff, on the east coast, fifteen or twenty feet perpendicular from the river, and is in length half a mile, or more, upon its banks. The upper stratum of the earth consists entirely of several spe|cies of fresh water Cochlae, as Cochelix, Coch. labyrinthus, and Coch. voluta; the second, of ma|rine shells, as Concha mytulus, Concostrea, Conc. peeton, Haliotis auris marina, Hal. patella, &c. mixed with sea sand; and the third, or lower stra|tum, which was a little above the comman level of the river, was horizontal masses of a pretty hard rock, composed almost entirely of the above shell, generally whole, and lying in every direction, pe|trefied

or cemented together, with fine white sand; and these rocks were bedded in a stratum of clay. I saw many fragments of the earthen ware of the ancient inhabitants, and bones of animals, amongst the shells, and mixed with the earth, to a great depth. This high shelly bank continues, by gentle parallel ridges, near a quarter of a mile back from the river, gradually diminishing to the level of the sandy plains, which widen before and on each side eastward, to a seemingly unlimited distance, and appear green and delightful, being covered with grass and the Corypha repens, and thinly planted with trees of the long leaved, or Broom Pine, and decorated with clumps, or coppices of floriferous, evergreen, and aromatic shrubs, and enamelled with patches of the beautiful little Kalmea ciliata. These shelly ridges have a vegetable surface of loose black mould, very fertile, and naturally produces Orange groves, Live Oak, Laurus Borbonia, Palma elata, Carica papaya, Sapindus, Liquid-amber, Fraxinus exelfior, Morus rubra, Ulmns, Tilia, Sambucus, Ptelea, Tallow-nut, or Wild Lime, and many others.

Mr. Rolle obtained from the crown, a grant of forty thousand acres of land, in any part of East Florida, where the land was unlocated. It seems his views were to take up his grant near St. Marks, in the bay of Aplatchi; and sat sail from England, with about one hundred families, for that place; but by contrary winds and stress of weather, he missed his aim, and being obliged to put into St. Juan's, he, with some of the principal of his ad|herents, ascended the river in a boat, and being struck with its majesty, the grand situations of its banks, and fertility of its lands, and at the same time, considering the extensive navigation of the

river, and its near vicinity to St. Augustine, the capital and seat of government, he altered his views on St. Marks, and suddenly determined on this place, where he landed his first little colony. But it seems from an ill concerted plan, in its infant establishment, negligence, or extreme parsimomy, in sending proper recruits, and other necessaries, together with a bad choice of citizens, the settle|ment by degrees grew weeker, and at length to|tally fell to the ground. Those of them who escaped the constant contagious fevers, fled the dreaded place, betaking themselves for subsistence, to the more fruitful and populous regions of Geor|gia and Carolina.

THE remaining old habitations, are mouldering to earth, except the mansion house, which is a large frame building, of Cypress wood, yet in tolerable repair, and inhabited by an overseer and his family. There is also a black-smith with his shop and family, at a small distance from it. The most valuable district belonging to Mr. Rolle's grant, lies on Dunn's lake, and on a little river, which runs from it into St. Juan. This district consists of a vast body of rich swamp land, fit for the growth of Rice, and some very excellent high land surrounding it. Large swamps of excellent rice land are also situated on the West shore of the river, opposite to Charlotia.

THE aborigines of America, had a very great town in this place, as appears from the great tu|muli, and conical mounts of earth and shells, and other traces of a settlement which yet remain. There grew in the old fields on these heights great quantities of Callicarpa and of the beautiful shrub Annona: the flowers of the latter are large, white and sweet scented.

HAVING obtained from the people here, directions for discovering the little remote island, where the traders and their goods were secreted, which was about seven miles higher up, I sat sail again, with a fair wind, and in about one hour and an half, arrived at the desired place, having fortunately taken the right channel of the river, amongst a multitude of others, occasioned by a number of low swampy islands. But I should have ran by the landing, if the centinels had not, by chance seen me drawing near them; and who perceiving that I was a whiteman, ventured to hail me; upon which I immediately struck sail, and came too. Upon my landing they conducted me to their encampment, forty or fifty yards from the river, in an almost impenetrable thicket. Upon my inquiry, they con|••••ed the accounts of the amicable treaty at St. 〈◊〉〈◊〉, and in consequence thereof, they had already removed great part of the goods, to the trading-house, which was a few miles higher up, on the Indian shore. They shewed me my chest, which had been carefully preserved, and upon in|spection I found every thing in good order. Having learned from them, that all the effects would, in a few days time, be removed to the store-house, I bid adieu to them, and in a little time, arrived at the trading-house, where I was received with great politeness, and treated during a residence of seve|ral months, with the utmost civility and friendship, by Mr. C. M'Latche, Messrs. Spalding and Kelsall's agent.

THE river almost form Charlotia, and for near twelve mile higher up is divided into many channels by a great number of islands.

CHAP. IV.

HAVING rested myself a few days, and by ranging about the neighbouring plains and groves, surround|ing this pleasant place, pretty well recovered my strength and spirits, I began to think of planning my future excursions, at a distance round about this center. I found from frequent conferrences with Mr. M'Latche. that I might with safety, extend my journeys every way, and with prudence, even into the towns and settlements of the Indians, as they were perfectly reconciled to us, and sincerely wish|ed for the renewal of our trade.

THERE were three trading-houses to be establish|ed this summer, each of which had its supplies from the store on St. Juan, where I now had my resi|dence, and in which the produce or returns were to center annually, in order to be shipped for Sa|vanna on Sunbury, and from thence to Europe.

ONE of these trading-houses was to be fixed a|bout sixty miles higher up the river, from this place, by the name 〈◊〉〈◊〉 Spalding's upper store; a second at Alachua, about fifty miles West from the river St. Juan; and a third at Talahasochte, a considerable town of the Siminoles, on the river Little St. Juan, near the bay of Apalachi, about one hundred and twenty miles distance. Each of these places I de|signed to visit, before the return of the vessel to Frederica, in the autumn, that I might avail my|self of an opportunity so favourable, for transporting my collections so far on their way towards Charles|ton.

THE company for Alachua, were to set off in a|bout a month. That to Little St. Juan, in July, which suited me exceedingly well, as I might make my tour to the upper store directly, that part of the country being at this season, enrobed in her richest and gayest apparel.

ABOUT the middle of May, every thing being in readiness, to proceed up the river, we sat sail. The traders with their goods in a large boat, went a|head, and myself in my little vessel followed them; and as their boat was large, and deeply laden, I found that I could easily keep up with them, and if I chose, out-sail them; but I preferred keeping them company, as well for the sake of collecting what I could from conversation, as on account of my safe|ty in crossing the great lake, expecting to re|turn alone, and descend the river at my own leisure.

WE had a pleasant day, the wind fair and mode|rate, and ran by Mount Hope, so named by my fa|ther John Bartram, when he ascended this river, a|bout fifteen years ago. It is a very high shelly bluff, upon the little lake. It was at that time a fine O|range grove, but now cleared and converted into a large Indigo plantation, the property of an English gentleman, under the care of an agent. In the e|vening we arrived at Mount Royal, where we came to, and stayed all night: we were treated with great civility, by a gentleman whose name was Kean, and had been an Indian trader.

FROM this place we enjoyed a most enchanting prospect of the great Lake George, through a grand avenue, if I may so term this narrow reach of the river, which widens gradually for about two miles,

towards its entrance into the lake, so as to elude the exact rules of perspective and appears of an e|qual width.

AT about fifty yards distance from the landing place, stands a magnificent Indian mount. About fifteen years ago. I visited this place, at which time there were no settlements of white people, but all appeared wild and savage; yet in that uncultivated state is possessed an almost inexpressible air of gran|deur, which was now entirely changed. At that time there was a very considerable extent of old fields round about the mount; there was also a large Orange grove, together with Palms and Live Oaks, extending from near the mount, along the banks, downwards, all of which has since been cleared away to make room for planting ground. But what greatly contributed towards compleating the magnificence of the scene, was a noble Indian highway, which led from the great mount, on a strait line, three quarter of a mile, first through a point or wing of the Orange grove, and continuing thence through an awful forest, of Live Oaks, it was terminated by Palms and Laurel Magnolias, on the verge of an oblong artificial lake, which was on the edge of an extensive green level savanna. This grand highway was about fifty yards wide, sunk a little below the common level, and the earth thrown up on each side, making a bank of about two feet high, Neither nature nor art, could any where present a more striking contrast, as you ap|proach this savanna. The glittering water pond, plays on the sight, through the dark grove, like a brilliant diamond, on the bosom of the illumined savanna, bordered with various flowery shrubs and plants; and as we advance into the plain, the

sight is agreeably relieved by a distant view of the forests, which partly environ the green expanse, on the left hand, whilst the imagination is still flatter|ed and entertained by the far distant misty points of the surrounding forests, which project into the plain, alternately appearing and disappearing, mak|ing a grand sweep round on the right, to the distant banks of the great lake. But that venerable grove is now no more. All has been cleared away and planted with Indigo, Corn and Cotton, but since de|serted: there was now scarcely five acres of ground under fence. It appeared like a desart, to a great extent, and terminated, on the land side, by frigh|ful thickets, and open Pine forests.

IT appears however, that the late proprietor had some taste, as he has preserved the mount, and this little adjoining grove inviolate. The prospect from this station is so happily situated by nature, as to comprise at one view, the whole of the sublime and pleasing.

AT the reanimating appearance of the rising sun, nature again revives; and I obey the chearful sum|mons of the gentle monitors of the meads and groves.

YE vigilant and faithful servants of the Most High! ye who worship the Creator, morning, noon and eve, in simplicity of heart; I haste to join the uni|versal anthem. My heart and voice unite with yours, in sincere homage to the great Creator, the universal sovereign.

O MAY I be permitted to approach the throne of mercy! may these my humble and penitent suppli|cations, amidst the universal shouts of homage, from thy creatures, meet with thy acceptance.

AND although, I am sensible, that my service, cannot encrease, or diminish thy glory, yet it is pleasing to thy servant, to be permitted to sound thy praise; for O sovereign Lord! we know that thou alone art perfect, and worthy to be worship|ed. O universal Father! look down upon us we beseech thee, with an eye of pity and compassion, and grant that universal peace and love, may pre|vail in the earth, even that divine harmony, which fills the heavens, thy glorious habitation.

AND O sovereign Lord! since it has pleased thee to endue man with power, and pre-eminence, here on earth, and establish his dominion over all crea|tures, may we look up to thee, that our under|standing may be so illuminated with wisdom and our hearts warmed and animated, with a due sense of charity, that we may be enabled to do thy will, and perform our duty towards those submitted to our service, and protection, and be merciful to them even as we hope for mercy.

THUS may we be worthy of the dignity, and su|periority of the high, and distinguished station, in which thou hast placed us here on earth.

THE morning being fair, and having a gentle favourable gale, we left our pleasant harbour, in pursuit of our desired port.

NOW as we approach the capes, behold the little ocean of Lake George, the distant circular coast gradually rising to view, from his misty fringed horizon. I cannot entirely suppress my apprehen|sions of danger. My vessel seas, and at the dis|tance of a few miles, must appear to the surprised

observer, as some aquatic animal, at intervals e|merging from its surface. This lake is a large and beautiful piece of water; it is a dilatation of the river St. Juan, and is about fifteen miles wide, and generally about fifteen or twenty feet deep, except|ing at the entrance of the river, where lies a bar, which carries eight or nine feet water. The lake is beautified with two or three fertile islands. The first lies in the bay, as we ascend into the lake, near the West coast, about S. W. from Mount Royal, from whence it appears to form part of the West shore of the bay. The second island seems to ride on the lake before us as we enter, about a mile with|in it. This island is about two miles in breadth, and three quarters of a mile where broadest, mostly high land, well timbered, and fertile. The third and last, lies at the South end of the lake, and near the entrance of the river; it is nearly circular, and contains but a few acres of land, the earth high and fertile, and almost an entire Orange grove, with grand Magnolias and Palms.

SOON after entering the lake, the wind blew so briskly from the West, and thunder-clouds gathe|ring upon the horizon, we were obliged to seek a shelter, from the approaching tempest, on the large beautiful island, before mentioned. Where, having gained the South promontory, we met with an ex|cellent harbour, in which we continued the remain|ing part of the day and the night. This circum|stance gave me an opportunity to explore the great|est part of it.

THIS island appears, from obvious vestiges, to have been once the chosen residence of an Indian prince, there being to this day, evident remains of

a large town of the Aborigines. It was situated on an eminence, near the banks of the lake, and com|manded a comprehensive and charming prospect of the waters, islands, East and West shores of the lake, the capes, the bay and Mount Royal, and to the South the view is in a manner infinite where the skies and waters seem to unite. On the site of this ancient town, stands a very pompous Indian mount, or conical pyramid of earth, from which runs in a strait line, a grand avenue or Indian high-way, through a magnificent grove of Magnolias, Live Oaks, Palms and Orange trees, terminating at the verge of a large green level savanna. This island appears to have been well inhabited, as is very evident, from the quantities of fragments of Indian earthen-ware, bones of animals and other remains, particularly in the shelly heights and ridg|es, all over the island. There are no habitations at present on the island, but a great number of deer, turkeys, bears, wolves, wild cats, squirrels, racoons, and opossoms. The bears are invited here to par|take of the fruit of the Orange tree, which they are immoderately fond of, and both they and turkeys are made extremely fat and delicious, from their feeding on the sweet acorns of the Live Oak.

THERE grows on this island, many curious shrubs, particularly a beautiful species of Lantana (perhaps Lant. camerara. Lin. Syst. Veget. p. 473.) It grows in coppices in old fields, about five or six feet high, the branches adorned with rough ser|rated leaves, which sit opposite, and the twigs er|minate with umbeliferous tufts of orange coloured blossoms, which are succeeded by a cluster of small blue 〈◊〉〈◊〉: the flowers are of various colours on the same plant, and even in the same cluster. As

crimson, scarlet, orange and golden yellow: the whole plant is of a most agreeable scent. The o|range flowered shrub Hibiscus is also conspicuously beautiful (perhaps Hibisc. spinifex of Linn.) it grows five or six feet high, and subramous, The branches are divergent, and subramous. The branches are divergent, and furnished with cordated leaves, which are crenated. The flowers are of a mode|rate size, and of a deep splendid yellow. The pe|ricarpii are spiny. I also saw a new and beautiful palmated leaved convolvulus * 1.2 This Vine rambles over the shrubs, and strolls about on the ground, its leaves are elegantly sinuated, of a deep grass green, and sit on long petioles. The flowers are very large, infundibuliform, of a pale incarnate colour, having a deep crimson eye.

THERE are some rich swamps on the shores of the island, and these are verged on the outside with large marshes, covered entirely with tall grass, rushes, and herbacious plants: amongst these are several species of Hibiscus, particularly the Hi|biscus coccineus. This most stately of all herbaci|ous plants, grows ten or twelve feet high, branch|ing regularly, so as to form a sharp cone. These branches also divide again, and are embellished with large expanded crimson flowers: I have seen this plant of the size and figure of a beautiful little tree, having at once several hundred of these splen|did flowers, and which may be then seen at a great distance. They continue to flower in succession all summer and autumn, when the stems wither and decay; but the perennial root sends forth new stems the next spring, and so on for many years. Its leaves are large, deeply and elegantly sinuated, having six or seven very narrow dentated seg|ments;

the surface of the leaves, and of the whole plant, are smooth and polished. Another species of Hibiscus, worthy of particular notice, is like|wise a tall flourishing plant; several strong stems arise from a root, five, six, and seven feet high, embellished with ovate lanciolate leaves, covered with a fine down on their nether surfaces: the flowers are very large, and of a deep incarnate colour.

THE last we shall now mention seems nearly al|lied to the Alcea; the flowers are a size less than the Hibiscus, and of a fine damask rose colour, and are produced in great profusion on the tall pyra|midal stems.

THE Lobelia cardinalis grows in great plenty here, and has a most splendid appearance amidst extensive meadows of the golden Corymbous Jaco|bea (Senecio Jacobea) and odorous Pancratium.

HAVING finished my tour, on this princely island, I prepared for repose. A calm evening had suc|ceeded the stormy day. The late tumultuous winds had ceased, the face of the lake had become placid, and the skies serene; the balmy winds breathed the animating odours of the groves around me; and as I r••••lined on the elevated banks of the lake, at the foot of a Live Oak, I enjoyed the prospect of its wide waters, its fringed coasts, and of the distant horizon.

THE squadrons of aquatic fowl••, emerging out of the water, and hastening to their leafy coverts on shore, closed the varied scenes of the past day. I was lulled asleep by the mixed sound of the wearied

surf, lapsing on the hard beaten shore, and the ten|der warblings of the painted nonpareil and other winged inhabitants of the groves.

AT the approach of day, the dreaded voice of the alligators shook the isle, and resounded along the neighbouring coasts, proclaiming the appearance of the glorious sun. I arose, and prepared to accom|plish my daily task. A gentle favourable gale led us out of the harbour: we sailed across the lake, and towards evening, entered the river, on the op|posite South coast, where we made a pleasant and safe harbour, at a shelly promontory, the East cape of the river on that side of the lake. It is a most desirable situation, commanding a full view of the lake. The cape opposite to us was a vast cypress swamp, environed by a border of grassy marshes, which were projected farther into the lake, by float|ing fields of the bright green Pistia stratoites, which rose and fell alternately with the waters. Just to leeward of this point, and about half a mile in the lake, is the little round island already mentioned. But let us take notice of our harbour and its envi|rons: it is a beautiful little cove, just within the sandy point, which defends it from the beating surf of the lake. From a shelly bank, ten or twelve feet perpendicular from the water, we en|tered a grove of Live Oaks, Palm, Magnolia, and Orange trees, which grow amongst shelly hills, and low ridges, occupying about three acres of ground, comprehending the istl mus, and a part of the pen|insula, which joins it to the grassy plains. This en|chanting little forest is partly encircles by a deep creek, a branch of the river, that has its source in the high forests of the main, South East from us, and winds through the extensive grassy plains which

surround this peninsula, to an almost infinite dis|tance, and then unites its waters with those of the river, in this little bay which formed our harbour. This bay, about the mouth of the creek, is almost covered with the leaves of the Nymphaea nilumbo: its large sweet-scented yellow flowers are lifted up two or three feet above the surface of the water, each upon a green starol, representing the cap of Liberty.

THE evening drawing on, and there being no convenient landing place, for several miles higher up the river, we concluded to remain here all night. Whilst my fellow travellers were employ|ing themselves in collecting fire-wood, and fixing our camp. I improved the opportunity, in recon|noitering our ground; and taking my fusee with me, I penetrated the grove, and afterwards entered some almost unlimited savannas and plains, which were absolutely enchanting; they had been lately burnt by the Indian hunters, and had just now re|covered their vernal verdure and gaiety.

How happily situated is this retired spot of earth! What an elisium it is! where the wandering Simi|nole, the naked red warrior, roams at large, and after the vigorous chase retires from the scorching heat of meridian sun. Here he reclines, and reposes under the odoriferous shades of Zanthoxi|lon, his verdant couch guarded by the Deity; Li|berty, and the Muses, inspiring him with wisdom and valour, whilst the balmy zephyrs fan him to sleep.

SEDUCED by these sublime enchanting scenes of primitive, nature, and these visions of terrestrial happiness, I had roved far away from Cendar Point,

but awakening to my cares, I turned about, and in the evening regained our camp.

ON my return, I found some of my companions fishing for trout, round about the edges of the floating nymphaea, and not unsuccessfully, having then caught more than sufficient for us all. As the method of taking these fish is curious singular, I shall just mention it.

THEY are taken with a hook and line, but with|out any bait. Two people are in a little canoe, one sitting in the stern to steer, and the other near the bow, having a rod ten or twelve feet in length, to one end of which is tied a strong line, about twenty inches in length, to which is fastened three large hooks, back to back. These are fixed very securely, and covered with the white hair of a deer's tail, shreds of a red garter, and some particoloured fea|thers, all which form a tuft, or tassel, nearly as large as one's fist, and entirely cover and conceal the hooks: this is called a bob. The steersman paddles softly, and proceeds slowly along shore, keeping the boat parallel to it, at a distance just sufficient to admit the fisherman to reach the edge of the floating weeds along shore: he now ingeni|ously swings the bob backwards and forwards, just above the surface, and sometimes tips the water with it; when the unfortunate cheated trout in|stantly springs from under the weeds, and seizes the supposed prey. Thus he is caught without a possi|bility of escape, unless he break the hooks, line, or rod, which he, however, sometimes does by dint of strength; but, to prevent this, the fisherman used to the sport is careful not to raise the reed sudden|ly up, but jerks it instantly backwards, then steadi|ly drags the sturdy reluctant fish to the side of the

canoe, and with a sudden upright jerk brings him into it.

THE head of this fish makes about one third of his length, and consequently the month is very large: birds, fish, frogs, and even serpents, are frequently found in its stomach.

THE trout is of lead colour, inclining to a deep blue, and marked with transverse waved lists, of a deep slate colour, and when fully grown, has a cast of red, or brick colour. The sins, with the tail, which is large, and beautifully formed, are of a light reddish purple, or flesh colour, the whole bo|dy is covered with large scales. But what is most singular, this fish is remarkably ravenous; nothing living, that he can seize upon, escapes his jaws, and the opening and extending of the branchiostega, at the moment he rises to the surface to seize his prey, discovering his bright red gills, through the trans|parent waters, give him a very terible appearance. Indeed it may be observed, that all fish of prey have this opening and covering of the gills very large, in order to discharge the great quantity of water, which they take in at their mouth, when they strike at their prey. This fish is nearly cuniform, the body tapering gradually from the breast to the tail, and lightly compressed on each side. They fre|quently weigh fifteen, twenty and thirty pounds, and are delicious food.

MY companion, the trader, being desirous of crossing the river to the opposite shore, in hopes of getting a turkey, I chose to accompany him, as it ••••••••red a good opportunity to observe the natu|ral productions of those rich swamps and islands of the river. Having crossed the river, which is here

five or six hundred yards wide, we entered a narrow channel, which after a serpentine course, for some miles, rejoins the main river again, above; form|ing a large fertile island, of rich low land. We landed on this island, and soon saw a fine roebuck * 1.3, a some distance from us, who appeared leader of a company of deer, that were feeding near him, on the verge of a green meadow. My companion parting from me, in pursuit of the deer, one way, and I, observing a flock of turkeys at some distance, on the other, directed my steps towards them, and with great caution, got near them; when singling out a large cock, and being just on the point of fi|ring, I observed that several young cocks were af|frighted, and in their language, warned the rest to be on their guard, against an enemy, whom I plainly perceived was industriously making his sub|tile approaches towards them, behind the fallen trunk of a tree, about twenty yards from me. This cunning fellow hunter, was a large fat wild cat (lynx) he saw me, and at times seemed to watch my motions, as if determined to seize the delicious prey before me. Upon which I changed my object, and levelled my piece at him. At that instant, my com|panion, at a distance, also discharged his piece at the deer, the report of which alarmed the flock of turkeys, and my fellow hunter, the cat, sprang o|ver the log and trotted off. The trader also mis|sed his deer: thus we foiled each other. By this time it being near night, we returned to camp, where having a delicious meal, ready prepared for out hungry stomachs, we sat down in a circle round our wholesome repast.

How supremely blessed were our hours at this

time! plenty of delicious and healthful food, our stomachs keen, with contented minds; under no controul, but what reason and ordinate passions dictated, far removed from the seats of strife.

OUR situation was like that of the primitive state of man, peaceable, contented, and sociable. The simple and necessary calls of nature, being satisfied. We were altogether as brethren of one family, stran|gers to envy, malice and rapine.

THE night being over we arose, and pursued our course up the river, and in the evening reached the trading-house, Spalding's upper store, where I took up my quarters for several weeks.

ON our arrival at the upper store, we found it oc|cupied by a white trader, who had for a compani|on, a very handsome Siminole young woman. Her father, who was a prince, by the name of the White Captain, was an old chief of the Siminoles, and with part of his family, to the number of ten or twelve, were encamped in an Orange grove near the stores, having lately come in from a hunt.

THIS white trader, soon after our arrival, deli|vered up the goods and store-houses to my compa|nion, and joined his father-in-law's camp, and soon after went away into the forests on hunting and tra|ding amongst the flying camps of Siminoles.

HE is at this time, unhappy in his connections with his beautiful savage. It is but a few years since he came here, I think from North Carolina, a stout genteel well-bred man, active, and of a hero|ic and amiable disposition, and by his industry, ho|nesty, and engaging manners, had gained the af|fections of the Indians, and soon made a little for|tune

by traffic with the Siminoles: when, unfortu|nately, meeting with this little charmer, they were married in the Indian manner. He loves her sin|cerely, as she possesses every perfection in her person to render a man happy. Her features are beauti|ful, and manners engaging. Innocence, modesty, and love, appear to a stranger in every action and movement; and these powerful graces she has so artfully played upon her beguiled and vanquished lover, and unhappy slave, as to have already drain|ed him of all his possession, which she dishonestly distributes amongst her savage relations. He is now poor, emaciated, and half distracted, often threatening to shoot her, and afterwards put an end to his own life; yet he has not resolution even to leave her; but now endeavours to drown and forget his sorrows, in deep draughts of brandy. Her father condemns her dishonest and cruel con|duct.

THESE particulars were related to me by my old friend the trader, directly after a ••ong conference which he had with the White Captain on the sub|ject, his son in law being present. The scene was affecting; they both shed tears plentifully. My reasons for mentioning this affair, so foreign to my business, was to exhibit an instance of the power of beauty in a savage, and their art and finesse in im|proving it to their private ends. It is, however, but doing justice to the virtue and moral conduct of the Siminoles, and American Aborigines in general, to observe, that he character of this woman is condemned and detested by her own people, of both sexes; and if her husband should turn her away, according to the customs and usages of these peo|ple, she would not get a husband again, as a di|vorce seldom takes place but in consequence of a

deliberate impartial trial, and public condemna|tion, and then she would be looked upon as a har|lot.

SUCH is the virtue of these ututored savages: but I am afraid this is a common phrase epithet, having no meaning, or at least improperly applied; for these people are both well tutored and civil; and it is apparent to an impartial observer, who resides but a little time amongst them, that it is from the most delicate sense of the honour and re|putation of their tribes and families, that their laws and customs receive their force and energy. This is the divine principle which influences their moral conduct, and solely preserves their constitu|tion and civil government in that purity in which they are found to prevail amongst them.

CHAP. V.

BEING desirous of continuing my travels and ••••servation, higher up the river, and having an in|vitation from a gentleman who was agent for, and resident at a large plantation, the property of an English gentleman, about sixty miles higher up, I resolved to pursue my researches to that place; and having engaged in my service a young Indian, nephew to the White Captain, he agreed to assist me in working my vessel up as high as a certain bluff, where I was, by agreement, to land him, on the West or Indian shore, whence he designed to go in quest of the camp of the White Trader, his relation.

PROVISIONS and all necessaries being procured, and the morning pleasant, we went on board and stood up the river. We passed for several miles on the left, by islands of high swamp land, exceedingly fertile, their banks for a good distance from the wa|ter, much higher than the interior part, and suffi|ciently so to build upon, and be out of the reach of inundations. They consist of a loose black mould, with a mixture of sand, shells and dissolved vege|tables. The opposite Indian coast is a perpendi|cular bluff, ten or twelve feet high, consisting of a black sandy earth, mixed with a large proportion of shells, chiefly various species of fresh water Cochlea and Mytuli. Near the river, on this high shore, grew Corypha palma, Magnolia grandiflora, Live Oak, Callicarpa, Myrica cerifera, Hybiscus spini|fex, and the beautiful evergreen shrub called Wild lime or Tallow nut. This last shrub grows six or eight feet high, many erect stems rising from a root;

the leaves are lanciolate and intire, two or three inches in length and one in brea••th, of a deep green colour, and polished; at the foot of each leaf grows a stiff, sharp thorn; the flowers are small and in clusters, of a greenish yellow colour, and sweet scented; they are succeeded by a large oval fruit, of the shape and size of an ordinary plumb, of a fine yellow colour when ripe, a soft sweet pulp co|vers a nut which has a thin shell, enclosing a white kernel somewhat of the consistence and taste of the sweet Almond, but more oily and very much like hard tallow, which induced my father when he first observed it, to call it the Tallow nut.

AT the upper end of this bluff is a ••••ne Orange grove. Here my Indian companion requested me to set him on shore, being already tired of rowing under a fervid sun, and having for some time inti|mated a dislike to his situation, I readily complied with his desire, knowing the impossibility of com|pelling an Indian against his own inclinations, or even prevailing upon him by reasonable arguments, when labour is in the question; before my vessel reached the shore, he sprang out of her and landed, when uttering a shrill and terrible whoop, he bound|ed off like a roebuck, and I lost sight of him. I at first apprehended that as he took his gun with him, he intended to hunt for some game and return to me in the evening. The day being excessively hot and sultry, I concluded to take up my quarters here until next morning.

THE Indian not returning this morning, I sat sail alone. The coasts on each side had much the same appearance as already described. The Palm trees here seem to be of a different species from the Cab|bage tree; their strait trunks are sixty, eighty or nine|ty

feet high, with a beautiful taper of a bright ash colour, until within six or seven feet of the top, where it is a fine green colour, crowned with an orb of rich green plumed leaves; I have measured the stem of these plumes fifteen feet in length, besides the plume, which is nearly of the same length.

THE little lake, which is an expansion of the ri|ver, now appeared in view; on the East side are ex|tensive marshes, and on the other high forests and Orange groves, and then a bay, lined with vast Cy|press swamps, both coasts gradually approaching each other, to the opening of the river again, which is in this place about three hundred yards wide; even|ing now drawing on, I was anxious to reach some high bank of the river, where I intended to lodge, and agreeably to my wishes, I soon after discovered on the West shore, a little promontory, at the turning of the river, contracting it there to about one hun|dred and fifty yards in width. This promontory is a peninsula, containing about three acres of high ground, and is one entire Orange grove, with a few Live Oaks, Magnolias and Palms. Upon doubling the point, I arrived at the landing, which is a cir|cular harbour, at the foot of the bluff, the top of which is about twelve feet high; and back of it is a large Cypress swamp, that spreads each way, the right wing forming the West coast of the little lake, and the left stretching up the river many miles, and en|compassing a vast space of low grassy marshes. From this promontory, looking Eastward across the river, we behold a landscape of low country, uparalleled as I think; on the left is the East coast of the little like, which I had just passed, and from the Orange bluff at the lower end, the high forests begin, and increase in breadth from the shore of the lake, mak|ing

a circular sweep to the right, and contain ma|ny hundred thousand acres of meadow, and this grand sweep of high forests encircles, as I appre|hend, at least twenty miles of these green fields, interspersed with hommocks or islets of evergreen trees, where the sovereign Magnolia and lordly Palm stand conspicuous. The islets are high shelly knolls, on the sides of creeks or branches of the river, which wind about and drain off the super-a|bundant waters that cover these meadows, during the winter season.

THE evening was temperately cool and calm. The crocodiles began to roar and appear in uncom|mon numbers along the shores and in the river. I fixed my camp in an open plain, near the utmost projection of the promontory, under the shelter of a large Live Oak, which stood on the highest part of the ground and but a few yards from my boat. From this open, high situation, I had a free pros|pect of the river, which was a matter of no trivial consideration to me, having good reason to dread the subtle attacks of the allegators, who were crou|ding about my harbour. Having collected a good quantity of wood for the purpose of keeping up a light and smoke during the night, I began to think of preparing my supper, when, upon examining my stores, I found but a scanty provision, I thereupon determined, as the most expeditious way of supply|ing my necessities, to take my bob and try for some trout. About one hundred yards above my har|bour, began a cove or bay of the river, out of which opened a large lagoon. The mouth or entrance from the river to it was narrow, but the waters soon after spread and formed a little lake, extend|ing into the marshes, its entrance and shores with|in

〈…〉〈…〉 to be verged with floating lawns of the Pistia and Nymphea and other aquatic plants; these I knew were excellent haunts for trout.

THE verges and islets of the lagoon were elegant|ly embellished with flowering plants and shrubs; the laughing coots with wings half spread were trip|ping over the little coves and hiding themsel••••s in the tufts of grass; young broods of the painted summer teal, skimming the still surface of the waters, and following the watchful parent unconscious of danger, were frequently surprised by the voracious trout, and he in turn, as often by the subtle, greedy alligator. Behold him rushing forth from the flags and reeds. His enormous body swells. His plaited tail brandished high, floats upon the lake. The waters like a cataract descend from his opening jaws. Clouds of smoke issue from his di|lated nostrils. The earth trembles with his thunder. When immediately from the opposite coast of the lagoon, emerges from the deep his rival champion. They suddenly dart upon each other. The boiling surface of the lake marks their rapid course, and a terrific conflict commences. They now sink to the bottom folded together in horrid wreaths. The water becomes thick and discoloured. Again they rise, their jaws clap together, re-echoing through the deep surrounding forests. Again they sink, when the contest ends at the muddy bottom of the lake, and the vanquished makes a hazardous escape, hid|ing himself in the muddy turbulent waters and sedge on a distant shore. The proud victor exulting re|turns to the place of action. The shores and forests resound his dreadful roar, together with the triumph|ing shouts of the plaited tribes around, witnesses of the horrid combat.

MY apprehensions were highly alarmed after be|ing a spectator of so dreadful a battle; it was ob|vious that every delay would but tend to encrease my dangers and difficulties, as the sun was near setting, and the alligators gathered around my har|bour from all quarters; from these considerations I concluded to be expeditious in my trip to the la|goon, in order to take some fish. Not thinking it prudent to take my fusee with me, lest I might lose it overboard in case of a battle, which I had every reason to dread before my return, I therefore furnished myself with a club for my defence, went on board, and penetrating the first line of those which surrounded my harbour, they gave way; but being pursued by several very large ones, I kept strictly on the watch, and paddled with all my might towards the entrance of the lagoon, hoping to be sheltered there from the multitude of my assailants; but ere I had half-way reached the place, I was attack|ed on all sides, several endeavouring to overset the canoe. My situation now became precarious to the last degree: two very large ones attacked me close|ly, at the same instant, rushing up with their heads and part of their bodies above the water, roaring terribly and belching floods of water over me. They struck their jaws together so close to my ears, as almost to stun me, and I expected every moment to be dragged out of the boat and instantly devoured, but I applied my weapons so effectually about me, though at random, that I was so successful as to beat them off a little; when, finding that they de|signed to renew the battle, I made for the shore, as the only means left me for my preservation, for, by keeping close to it, I should have my enemies on one side of me only, whereas I was before surround|ed by them, and there was a probability, if pushed

to the last extremity, of saving myself, by jumping out of the canoe on shore, as it is easy to outwalk them on land, although comparatively as swift as lightning in the water. I found this last expedient alone could fully answer my expectations, for as soon as I gained the shore they drew off and kept aloof. This was a happy relief, as my confidence was, in some degree, recovered by it. On recol|lecting myself, I discovered that I had almost reach|ed the entrance of the lagoon, and determined to venture in, if possible to take a few fish and then return to my harbour, while day-light continued; for I could now, with caution and resolution, make my way with safety along shore, and indeed there was no other way to regain my camp, without leav|ing my boat and making my retreat through the marshes and reeds, which, if I could even effect, would have been in a manner throwing myself a|way, for then there would have been no hopes of ever recovering my bark, and returning in safety to any settlements of men. I accordingly proceed|ed and made good my entrance into the lagoon, though not without opposition from the alligators, who formed a line across the entrance, but did not pursue me into it, nor was I molested by any there, though there were some very large one in a cove at the upper end. I soon caught more trout than I had present occasion for, and the air was too hot and sultry to admit of their being kept for many hours, even though salted or barbecued. I now prepared for my return to camp, which I succeed|ed in with but little trouble, by keeping close to the shore, yet I was opposed upon re-entering the river out of the lagoon, and pursued near to my landing (though not closely attacked) particularly by an old daring one, about twelve feet in length,

who kept close after me, and when I stepped on shore and turned about, in order to draw up my canoe, he rushed up near my feet and lay there for some time, looking me in the face, his head and shoulders out of water; I resolved he should pay for his temerity, and having a heavy load in my fu|see, I ran to my camp, and returning with my piece, found him with his foot on the gunwale of the boat, in search of fish, on my coming up he withdrew sullenly and slowly into the water, but soon return|ed and placed himself in his former position, look|ing at me and seeming neither fearful or any way disturbed. I soon dispatched him by lodging the contents of my gun in his head, and then proceed|ed to cleanse and prepare my fish for supper, and accordingly took them out of the boat, laid them down on the sand close to the water, and began to scale them, when, raising my head, I saw before me, through the clear water, the head and should|ers of very large alligator, moving slowly towards me; I instantly stepped back, when, with a sweep of his tail, he brushed off several of my fish. It was certainly most providential that I looked up at that instant, as the monster would probably, in less than a minute, have seized and dragged me into the river. This incredible boldness of the animal dis|turbed me greatly, supposing there could now be no reasonable safety for me during the night, but by keeping continually on the watch; I therefore, as soon as I had prepared the fish, proceeded to se|cure myself and effects in the best manner I could: in the first place, I hauled my bark upon the shore, almost clear out of the water, to prevent their oversetting or sinking her, after this every moveable was taken out and carried to my camp,

which was but a few yards off; then ranging some dry wood in such order as was the most convenient, cleared the ground round about it, that there might be no impediment in my way, in case of an attack in the night, either from the water of the land; for I discovered by this time, that this small isthmus, from its remote situation and fruitfulness, was re|sorted to by bears and wolves. Having prepared myself in the best manner I could, I charged my gun and proceeded to reconnoitre my camp and the adjacent grounds; when I discovered that the pe|ninsula and grove, at the distance of about two hun|dred yards from my encampment, on the land side, were invested by a Cypress swamp, covered with wa|ter, which below was joined to the shore of the lit|tle lake, and above to the marshes surrounding the lagoon, so that I was confined to an islet exceed|ingly circumscribed, and I found there was no other retreat for me, in case of an attack, but by either ascending one of the large Oaks, or pushing off with my boat.

IT was by this time dusk, and the alligators had nearly ceased their roar, when I was again alarm|ed by a tumultuous noise that seemed to be in my harbour, and therefore engaged my immediate at|tention. Returning to my camp I found it undis|turbed, and then continued on to the extreme point of the promontory, where I saw a scene, new and surprising, which at first threw my senses into such a tumult, that it was some time before I could com|prehend what was the matter; however, I soon accounted for the prodigious assemblage of croco|diles at this place, which exceeded every thing of the kind I had ever heard of.

How shall I express myself so as to convey an

adequate idea of it to the reader, and at the same time avoid raising suspicions of my want of veraci|ty. Should I say, that the river (in this place) from shore to shore, and perhaps near half a mile above and below me, appeared to be one solid bank of fish, of various kinds, pushing through this narrow pass of St. Juans into the little lake, on their re|turn down the river, and that the alligators were in such incredible numbers, and so close together from shore to shore, that it would have been easy to have walked across on their heads, had the ani|mals been harmless. What expressions can sufficient|ly declare the shocking scene that for some minutes continued, whilst this mighty army of fish were for|cing the pass? During this attempt, thousands, I may say hundreds of thousands of them were caught and swallowed by the devouring alligators. I have seen an alligator take up out of the water several great fish at a time; and just squeeze them betwixt his jaws, while the tails of the great trout flapped about his eyes and lips, ere he had swallowed them. The horrid noise of their closing jaws, their plun|ging amidst the broken banks of fish, and rising with their prey some feet upright above the water, the floods of water and blood rushing out of their mouths, and the clouds of vapour issuing from their wide nostrils, were truly frightful. This scene con|tinued at intervals during the night, as the fish came to the pass. After this sight, shocking and tremendous as it was, I found myself somewhat ea|sier and more reconciled to my situation, being con|vinced that their extraordinary assemblage here, was owing to this annual feast of fish, and that they were so well employed in their own element, that I had little occasion to fear their paying me a visit.

IT being now almost night, I returned to my camp, where I had left my fish broiling, and my kettle of rice stewing, and having with me, oil, pepper and salt, and excellent oranges hanging in abundance over my head (a valuable substitute for vinegar) I sat down and regaled myself chearfully; having finished my repast, I re-kindled my fire for light, and whilst I was revising the notes of my past day's journey, I was suddenly roused with a noise behind me toward the main land; I sprang up on my feet, and listning, I distinctly heard some crea|ture wading in the water of the isthmus; I seized my gun and went cautiously from my camp, directing my steps towards the noise; when I had advanced about thirty yards, I halted behind a coppice of O|range trees, and soon perceived two very large bears, which had made their way through the water, and had landed in the grove, about one hundred yards distance from me, and were advancing to|wards me. I waited until they were within thirty yards of me, they there began to snuff and look to|wards my camp, I snapped my piece, but it flashed, on which they both turned about and galloped off, plunging through the water and swamp, never halt|ing as I suppose, until they reached fast land, as I could hear them leaping and plunging a long time; they did not presume to return again, nor was I molested by any other creature, except being oc|casionally awakened by the whooping of owls, screaming of bitterns, or the wood-rats running a|mongst the leaves.

THE wood-rat is a very curious animal, they are not half the size of the domestic rat; of a dark brown or black colour; their tail slender and shorter in pro|portion, and covered thinly with short hair; they are

singular with respect to their ingenuity and great la|bour in the construction of their habitations, which are conical pyramids about three or four feet high, constructed with dry branches, which they collect with great labour and perseverance, and pile up without any apparent order, yet they are so inter|woven with one another, that it it would take a bear or wild-cat some time to pull one of these cas|tles to pieces, and allow the animals sufficient time to secure a retreat with their young.

THE noise of the crocodiles kept me awake the greater part of the night, but when I arose in the morning, contrary to my expectation, there was perfect peace; very few of them to be seen, and those were asleep on the shore, yet I was not able to suppress my fears and apprehensions of being attack|ed by them in future; and indeed yesterday's com|bat with them, notwithstanding I came off in a manner victorious, or at least made a safe re|treat, had left sufficient impression on my mind to damp my courage, and it seemed too much for one of my strength, being alone in a very small boat to encounter such collected danger. To pur|sue my voyage up the river, and be obliged every evening to pass such dangerous defiles, appeared to me as perilous as running the gauntlet betwixt two rows of Indians armed with knives and fire brands; I however resolved to continue my voyage one day longer, if I possibly could with safety, and then re|turn down the river, should I find the like difficul|ties to oppose. Accordingly I got every thing on board, charged my gun, and set sail cautiously along shore; as I passed by Battle lagoon, I began to tremble and keep a good look out, when sud|denly a huge alligator rushed out of the reeds, and

with a tremendous roar, came up, and darted as swift as an arrow under my boat, emerging upright on my lea quarter, with open jaws, and belching water and smoke that fell upon me like rain in a hurricane; I laid soundly about his head with my club and beat him off, and after plunging and dart|ing about my boat, he went off on a strait line through the water, seemingly with the rapidity of lightning, and entered the cape of the lagoon; I now employed my time to the very best advantage in padling close along shore, but could not forbear looking now and then behind me, and presently perceived one of them coming up again; the water of the river hereabouts, was shoal and very clear, the monster came up with the usual roar and me|naces, and passed close by the side of my boat, when I could distinctly see a young brood of alliga|tors to the number of one hundred or more, fol|lowing after her in a long train, they kep•• close together in a column without straggling off to the one side or the other, the young appeared to be of an equal size, about fifteen inches in length, almost black, with pale yellow transverse waved clouds or b••otches, much like rattle snakes in colour. I now lost sight of my enemy again.

〈◊〉〈◊〉 keeping close along shore; on turning a 〈◊〉〈◊〉 or projection of the river bank, at once I be|held a great number of hillocks or small pyramids, resembling hay cocks, ranged like an encampment along the banks, they stood fifteen or twenty yards distant from the water, on a high marsh, about four feet perpendicular above the water; I knew them to be the nests of the crocodile, having had a de|s••ription of them before, and now expected a furi|ous and general attack, as I saw several large cro|codiles

swimming abreast of these buildings. These nests being so great a curiosity to me, I was deter|mined at all events immediately to land and exa|mine them. Accordingly I ran my bark on 〈◊〉〈◊〉 at one of their landing places, which was a sort nick or little dock, from which ascended a sloping path or road up to the edge of the meadow, where their nests where, most of them were deserted, and the great thick whitish egg-shells lay broken and scattered upon the ground round about them.

THE nests or hillocks are of the form of an obtuse cone, four feet high and four or five feet in diame|ter at their bases; they are constructed with mud, grass and herbage: at first they lay a floor of this kind of tempered mortar on the ground, upon which they deposit a layer of eggs, and upon this a stra|tum of mortar seven or eight inches in thickness, and then another layer of eggs, and in this manner one stratum upon another, nearly to the top: I be|lieve they commonly lay from one to two hundred eggs in a nest: these are hatched I suppose by the heat of the sun, and perhaps the vegetable substan|ces mixed with the earth, being acted upon by the sun, may cause a small degree of fermentation, and so increase the heat in those hillocks. The ground for several acres about these nests shewed evident marks of a continual resort of alligators; the grass was every where beaten down, hardly a blade or straw was left standing; whereas, all about, at a distance, it was five or six feet high, and as thick as it could grow together. The female, as I ima|gine, carefully watches her own nest of eggs until they are all hatched, or perhaps while she is attend|ing her own brood, she takes under her care and protection, as many as she can get at one time, ei|ther

from her own particular nest or others: but certain it is, that the young are not left to shift for themselves, having had frequent opportunities of seeing the female alligator, leading about the shores her train of young ones, just like a hen does her brood of chickens, and she is equally assiduous and courageous in defending the young, which are un|der their care, and providing for their subsistence; and when she is basking upon the warm banks, with her brood around her, you may hear the young ones continually whining and barking, like young pup|pies. I believe but few of a brood live to 〈◊〉〈◊〉 years of full growth and magnitude, as the old feed on the young as long as they can make prey of them.

THE alligator when full grown is a very large and terrible creature, and of prodigous strength, activity and swiftness in the water. I have seen them twenty feet in length, and some are supposed to be twenty-two or twenty-three feet; their body is as large as that of a horse; their shape ex|actly resembles that of a lizard, except their tail, which is flat or cuniform, being compressed on each side, and gradually diminishing from the abdomen to the extremity, which, with the whole body is covered with horny plates or squammae, impene|trable when on the body of the live animal, even to a rifle ball, except about their head and just be|hind their fore-legs or arms, where it is said they are only vulnerable. The head of a full grown one is about three feet, and the mouth opens nearly the same length, the eyes are small in proportion and seem sunk deep in the head, by means of the pro|minency of the brows; the nostrils are large, in|flated and prominent on the top, so that the head in the water, resembles, at a distance, a great

chunk of wood floating about. Only the upper jaw moves, which they raise almost perpendicular, so as to form a right angle with the lower one. In the fore part of the upper jaw, on each side, just under the nostrils, are two very large, thick, strong teeth or tusks, not very sharp, but rather the shape of a cone, these are as white as the finest polished ivory, and are not covered by any skin or lips, and always in sight, which gives the creature a fright|ful appearance; in the lower jaw are holes oppo|site to these teeth, to receive them; when they clap their jaws together it causes a surprising noise, like that which is made by forcing a heavy plank with violence upon the ground, and may be heard at a great distance.

BUT what is yet more surprising to a stranger, is the incredible loud and terrifying roar, which they are capable of making, especially in the spring sea|son, their breeding time; it most resembles very heavy distant thunder, not only shaking the air and waters, but causing the earth to tremble; and when hundreds and thousands are roaring at the same time, you can scarcely b•• ••persuaded, but that the whole globe is violently and dangerously agitated.

AN old champion, who is perhaps absolute sove|reign of a little lake or lagoon (when fifty less than himself are obliged to content themselves with swell|ing and roaring in little coves round about) darts forth from the reedy coverts all at once, on the surface of the waters, in a right line; at first seem|ingly as rapid as lightning, but gradually more slow|ly until he arrives at the center of the lake, when he stops; he now swells himself by drawing in wind and water through his mouth, which causes a loud

sonorous rattling in t••e throat for near a minute, but it is immediately forced out again through his mouth and nostrils, with a loud noise, brandishing his tail in the air, and the vapour ascending from his nostrils like smoke. At other times, when swolen to an extent ready to burst, his head and tail lifted up, he spins or twirls round on the surface of the water. He acts his part like an Indian chief when rehearsing his feats of war, and then retiring, the exhibition is continued by others who dare to step forth, and strive to excel each other, to gain the attention of the favourite female.

HAVING gratified my curiosity at this general breed|ing place and nursery of crocodiles, I continued my voyage up the river without being greatly dis|turbed by them: in my way I observed islets or float|ing fields of the bright green Pistia, decorated with other amphibious plants, as Senecio Jacobea, Per|sicaria amphibia, Coreopsis bidens, Hydrocotile fluit|ans, and many others of less note.

THE swamps on the banks and islands of the river, are generally three or four feet above the surfacze of the water, and very level; the timber large and growing thinly, more so than what is observed to be in the swamps below Lake George; the black, rich earth is covered with moderately tall, and very suc|culent tender grass, which when chewed is sweet and agreeable to the taste, somewhat like young sugar|cane: it is a jointed decumbent grass, sending out radiculae at the joints into the earth, and so spreads itself, by creeping over its surface.

THE large timber trees, which possess the low lands, are Acer rubrum, Ac. nigundo, Ac. glaucum, Ulmus sylvatica, Fraxinus excelsior, Frax. aquatica, Ulmus

suberifer, Gleditsia monosperma, Gledit. triacan|thus, Diospyros Virginica, Nyssa aquatica, Nyssa sylvatica, Juglans cinerea, Quercus dentata, Quer|cus phillos, Hopea tinctoria, Corypha palma, Morus 〈◊〉〈◊〉, and many more. The Palm grows on the edges of the banks, where they are raised higher than the adjacent level ground, by the accumulation of sand, river-shells, &c. I passed along several miles by those rich swamps, the channels of the river which encircle the several fertile islands, I had passed, now uniting, formed one deep channel near three hundred yards over. The banks of the river on each side, began to rise and present shelly bluffs, adorned by beautiful Orange groves, Lau|rels and Live Oaks. And now appeared in sight, a tree that claimed my whole attention: it was the Carica papaya, both male and female, which were in flower; and the latter both in flower and fruit, some of which were ripe, as large, and of the form of a pear, and of a most charming appearance.

THIS admirable tree, is ••••••tainly the most beau|tiful of any vegetable production I know of; the towering Laurel Magnolia, and exalted Palm, in|deed exceed it in grandeur and magnificence, but not in elegance, delicacy and gracefulness; it ri|ses erect, with a perfectly strait tapering stem, to the height of fifteen or twenty feet, which is smooth and polished, of abright ash colour, resembling leaf silver, curiously inscribed with the footsteps of the fallen leaves, and these vestiges, are placed in a very re|gular uniform imbricated order, which has a fine effect, as if the little column were elegantly carved all over. Its perfectly spherical top, is formed of very large lobe-sinuate leaves, supported on very long footstalks; the lower leaves are the largest as well as their petioles the longest, and make

a graceful sweep or flourish, like the long S or the branches of a sconce candlestick. The ripe and green fruit are placed round about the stem or trunk, from the lowermost leaves, where the ripe fruit are, and upwards almost to the top; the heart or inmost pithy part of the trunk is in a manner hol|low, or at best consists of very thin porous medullae or membranes; the tree very seldom branches or divides into limbs, I believe never unless the top is by accident broken off when very young; I saw one which had two tops or heads, the stem of which di|vided near the earth. It is always green, orna|mented at the same time with flowers and fruit, which like figs come out singly from the trunk or stem.

AFTER resting and refreshing myself in these de|lightful shades, I left them with reluctance, embark|ing again after the fervid heats of the meridian sun were abated, for some time I passed by bro|ken ridges of shelly high land, covered with groves of Live Oak, Palm, Olea Americana, and Orange ••••ees; frequently observing floating islets and green fields of the Pistia near the shores of the river and lagoons.

HERE is in this river and in the waters all over Florida, a very curious and handsome bird, the people call them Snake Birds, I think I have seen paintings of them on the Chinese screens and other India pictures: they seeem to be a species of cormorant or loon (Colymbus cauda elongata) but far more beautiful and delicately formed than any other species that I have ever seen. The head and neck of this bird are extremely small and slender, the latter very long indeed, almost out of all proportion, the bill long, strait and slender, ta|pering

from its ball to a sharp point, all the upper side, the abdomen and thighs, are as black and glossy as a raven's, covered with feathers so firm and elastic, that they in some degree resemble fish-scales, the breast and upper part of the belly are covered with feathers of a cream colour, the tail is very long, of a deep black, and tipped with a silvery white, and when spread, represent an unfurled fan. They delight to sit in little peaceable communities, on the dry limbs of trees, hanging over the still waters, with their wings and tails expanded, I suppose to cool and air themselves, when at the same time they behold their images in the watery mirror: at such times, when we approach them, they drop off the limbs into the water as if dead, and for a minute or two are not to be seen; when on a sudden at a vast distance, their long slender head and neck only appear, and have very much the appearance of a snake, and no other part of them are to be seen when swimming in the water, except some|times the tip end of their tail. In the heat of the day they are seen in great numbers, sailing very high in the air, over lakes and rivers.

I DOUBT not but if this bird had been an inhabi|tant of the Tiber in Ovid's days, it would have furnished him with a subject, for some beautiful and entertaining metamorphoses. I believe they feed intirely on fish, for their flesh smells and tastes intolerably strong of it, it is scarcely to be eaten unless constrained by insufferable hunger.

I HAD now swamps and marshes on both sides of me, and evening coming on apace, I began to look out for high land to encamp on, but the extensive marshes seemed to have no bounds; and it was al|most dark when I found a tolerable suitable place,

and at last was constrained to take up on a narrow strip of high shelly bank, on the West side. Great numbers of crocodiles were in sight on both shores; I ran my bark on shore at a perpendicular bank four or five feet above the water, just by the roots and under the spreading limbs of a great Live Oak: this appeared to have been an ancient camping place by Indians and strolling adventures, from ash heaps and old rotten fire brands, and chunks, scattered about on the surface of the ground; but was now evidently the harbour and landing place of some sovereign alligator: there led up from it a deep beaten path or road, and was a convenient ascent.

I DID not approve of my intended habitation from these circumstances; and no sooner had I landed and moored my canoe to the roots of the tree, than I saw a huge crocodile rising up from the bottom close by me, who, when he perceived that I saw him, plunged down again under my vessel; this de|termined me to be on my guard, and in time to provide against a troublesome night: I took out of my boat every moveable, which I carried upon the bank, then chose my loading close to my canoe, under the spreading Oak; as hereabouts only, the ground was open and clear of high grass and bushes, and consequently I had some room to stir and look round about. I then proceeded to collect firewood which I found difficult to procure. Here were stand|ing a few Orange trees. As for provisions, I had saved one or two barbecued trout; the remains of my last evenings collection in tolerable good order, though the sultry heats of the day had injured them; yet by stewing them up afresh with the lively juice of Oranges, they served well enough for my sup|per: having by this time but little relish or appe|tite

for my victuals; for constant watching at night against the attacks of alligators, stinging of mus|quitoes and sultry heats of the day; together, with the fatigues of working my bark, had almost de|prived me of every desire but that of ending my troubles as speedy as possible. I had the good for|tune to collect together a sufficiency of dry sticks, to keep up a light and smoke, which I laid by me, and then spread my skins and blankets upon the ground, kindled up a little fire and supped before it was quite dark. The evening was however, ex|tremely pleasant, a brisk cool breeze sprang up, and the skies were perfectly serene, the stars twinkling with uncommon briliancy. I stretched myself a|long before my fire; having the river, my little harbour ••••d the stern of my vessel in view, and now through fatigue and weariness I fell asleep, but this happy temporary release from cares and trou|bles I enjoyed but a few moments, when I was a|wakened and greatly surprised, by the terrifying screams of Owls in the deep swamps around me, and what encreased my extreme misery was the dif|ficulty of geting quite awake, and yet hearing at the same time such screaming and shouting, which increased and spread every way for miles around, in dreadful peals vibrating through the dark extensive forests, meadows and lakes, I could not after this sur|prisere cover the former peaceable state and tranquil|ity of mind and repose, during the long night, and I believe it was happy for me that I was awakened, for at that moment the crocodile was dashing my canoe against the roots of the tree, endeavouring to get into her for the fish, which I however pre|vented. Another time in the night I believe I nar|rowly escaped being dragged into the river by him, for when again through excessive fatigue I had fal|len

asleep, but was again awakened by the scream|ing owl, I found the monster on the top of the bank, his head towards me not above two yards distant, when starting up and seizing my fuzee well loaded, which I always kept under my head in the night time, he drew back and plunged into the water. After this I roused up my fire, and kept a light du|ring the remaining part of the night, being deter|mined not to be caught napping so again, indeed the musquitoes alone would have been abundantly suffi|cient to keep any creature awake that possessed their perfect senses, but I was overcome, and stu|pified with incessant watching and labour: as soon as I discovered the first signs of day-light, I arose, got all my effects and implements on board and set sail, proceeding upwards, hoping to give the mus|quitoes the slip, who were now, by the cool morning dews and breezes, driven to their shelter and hiding places; I was mistaken however in these conjec|tures, for great numbers of them, which had con|cealed themselves in my boat, as soon as the sun arose, began to revive, and sting me on my legs, which obliged me to land in order to get bushes to beat them out of their quarters.

IT is very pleasing to observe the banks of the river ornamented with hanging garlands, com|posed of varieties of climbing vegetables, both shrubs and plants, forming perpendicular green walls, with projecting jambs, pilasters and deep apartments, twenty or thirty feet high and com|pleatly covered, with Glycine frutescens, Glyc. apios, Vitis labrusca, Vitis vulpina, Rajana, Hedera quin|quifolia, Hedera arborea, Eupatorium scandens, Bignonia crucigera, and various species of Convol|vulus, particularly an amazing tall climber of this

genus, or perhaps an Ipomea. This has a very large white flower, as big as a small funnel, its tube is five or six inches in length and not thicker than a pipe stem; the leaves are also very large, oblong and cordated, sometimes dentated or angled, near the insertion of the foot-stalk; they are of a thin texture, and of a deep green colour: it is exceed|ingly curious to behold the Wild Squash * 1.4 climbing over the lofty limbs of the trees; their yellow fruit somewhat of the size and figure of a large orange, pendant from the extremities of the limbs over the water.

TOWARDS noon, the sultry heats being intolera|ble, I put into shore, at a midling high bank, five or six feet above the surface of the river; this low sandy testaceous ridge along the river side was but narrow, the surface is light, black and exceedingly fertile, pro|ducing very large venerable Live Oaks, Palms and grand Magnolias, scatteringly planted by nature: there being no underwood to prevent the play of the breezes from the river, afforded a desirable re|treat from the sun's heat: immediately back of this narrow ridge, was deep wet swamps, where stood some astonishingly tall and spreading Cypress trees; and now being weary and drowsy, I was induced to indulge and listen to the dictates of reason and invitations to repose, which consenting to, after securing my boat and reconnoitring the ground, I spread my blanket under the Oaks near my boat, on which I extended myself, where, falling to sleep, I instantaneously passed away the sultry hours of noon, what a blissful tranquil repose! undisturbed I awoke, refreshed and strengthened; I chearfully stepped on board again and continued to ascend the river. The

afternoon being cool and pleasant, and the trees very lofty on the higher Western banks of the river, by keeping near that shore I passed under agreea|ble shades the remaining part of the day. During almost all this day's voyage, the banks of the river on both 〈◊〉〈◊〉 were midling high, perpendicular, and washed by the brisk current; th•• shores were not lined with the green lawns of floating aquatics, and consequently not very commodious resorts or harbours for crocodiles, I therefore was not dis|turbed by them, and saw but few, but those were very large. I however did not like to lodge on those narrow ridges, invested by such dreary swamps, and evening approaching, I began to be anxious for high land for a camping place; it was quite dark before I came up to bluff, which I had in view a long time, over a very extensive point of meadows, I landed however at last, in the best man|ner I could, at a magnificent forest of Orange groves, Oaks and Palms. I here, with little labour or difficulty, soon collected a sufficient quantity of dry wood: there was a pleasant vista of grass be|twixt the grove and the edge of the river bank, which afforded a very convenient, open, airy camp|ing place, under the protection of some spreading Oaks.

THIS was a high perpendicular bluff, fronting more than one hundred yards on the river, the earth black, loose and fertile, it is a composition of ri|ver-shells, sand, &c. back of it from the river, were open Pine forests and savannas. I met with a cir|cumstance here, that, with some, may be reckoned worthy of mentioning, since it regards the monu|ments of the ancients; as I have already observed, when I landed it was quite dark, and in collecting

wood for my fire, stroling in the dark about the groves, I found the surface of the ground very uneven, by means of little mounts and ridges; in the morning I found I had taken up my lodging on the border of an ancient burying ground; ••sepulchres or tumuli of the Yamasees, who were here slain by the Creeks in the last decisive battle, the Creeks having driven them into this point, between the doubling of the river, where few of them escaped the fury of the conquerors. These graves occupied the whole grove, consisting of two of three acres of ground; there were near thirty of these cemeteries of the dead, nearly of an equal size and form, they were oblong, twenty feet in length, ten or twelve feet in width and three or four feet high, now over|grown with Orange trees, Live Oaks, Laurel Mag|nolias, Red bays and other trees and shrubs, compo|sing dark and solemn shades.

I HERE, for the first time since I left the trading house, enjoyed a night of peaceful repose; I arose, greatly refreshed and in good spirits, stepped on board my bark and continued my voyage. After doubling the point I passed by swamps and meadows on each side of me, The river here is something more contracted within perpendicular banks, the land of an excellent quality, fertile, and producing prodigiously large timber and luxuriant herbage.

THE air continued sultry and scarcely enough wind to flutter the leaves on the trees. The Eastern coast of the river now opens, and presents to view ample plains, consisting of grassy marshes and green meadows, and affords a prospect almost unlimited and extremely pleasing. The opposite shore pre|sents to view a sublime contrast; a high bluff bear|ing magnificent forests of grand Magnolia, glori|ous

Palms, fruitful Orange groves, Live Oaks, Bays and others. This grand elevation continues four or five hundred yards, describing a gentle curve on the river, ornamented by a sublime grove of Palms, consisting of many hundreds of trees together; they intirely shade the ground under them. Above and below the bluff the grounds gradually descend to the common level swamps on the river: back of this eminence opens to view, expansive green meadows or savannas, in which are to be seen glittering ponds of water, surrounded at a great distance, by high open Pine forests and hommocks, and islets of Oaks and Bays projecting into the savannas. After ranging about these solitary groves and peaceful shades, I re-embarked and conti|nued some miles up the river, between elevated banks of the swamps or low lands, when on the East shore in a capacious cove or winding of the river, were pleasing floating fields of Pistia, and in the bottom of this cove opened to view a large creek or branch of the river, which I knew to be the en|trance to a beautiful lake, on the banks of which was the farm I was going to visit, and which I designed should be the last extent of my voyage up the river.

ABOUT noon the weather became extremely sul|try, not a breath of wind stirring, hazy or cloudy, and very heavy distant thunder, which is answered by the crocodiles, sure presage of a storm!

SOON after ascending this branch of the river, on the right hand presents to view, a delightful little bluff, consisting chiefly of shells, and covered with a dark grove of Red Cedar, Zanthoxilon and Myr|tle, I could not resist the temptation to stop here, although the tremendous thunder all around the

hemisphere alarmed me greatly, having a large lake to cross. From this grove presents to view, an expansive and pleasing prospect. The beauteous long lake in front, about North East from me, its most distant East shores adorned with dark, high forests of stately trees; North and South almost endless green plains and meadows, embellished with islets and projecting promontories of high, dark forests, where the pyramidal Magnolia grandiflora, Palma elata and shady Oak conspicuously tower.

BEING heretofore so closely invested, by high fo|rests and deep swamps of the great river, I was prevented from seeing the progress and increase of the approaching tempest, the terrific appearance of which now at once confounded me; how purple and fiery appeared the tumultious clouds! swiftly ascending or darting from the horizon upwards; they seemed to oppose and dash against each other, the skies appeared streaked with blood or pur|ple flame overhead, the flaming lightning streaming and darting about in every direction around, seems to fill the world with fire; whilst the heavy thunder keeps the earth in a constant tremor. I had yet some hopes of crossing the lake to the plantation in sight. On the opposite shore of the creek be|fore me, and on the caps as we enter the lake, stood a large islet or grove of Oaks and Palms, here I intended to seek shelter and abide till the fury of the hurricane was overpast, if I found it too violent to permit me to cross the lake; in consequence of this precipitate determination I stepped into my boat and pushed off, what a dreadful rushing and roar|ing there is every where around me; and to my utter confusion and astonishment I could not find from what particular quarter its strongest current

or direction came, whereby I might have a proper chance of taking measures of securing a harbour or running from it. The high forests behind me bend to the blast, and the sturdy limbs of the trees crack; I had by this time got up a-breast of the grove or hommock, the hurricane close by, pursuing me, I found it dangerous and imprudent in the highest degree to put in here, as the groves were already torn up, and the spreading limbs of the ancient Live Oaks were flying over my head, and carried about in the air as leaves and stubble; I ran by and boldly entered the lake, (being hurried in by a strong current, which seemed a prodigy, the vio|lent wind driving the stream of the creek back a|gain into the lake) and as soon as possible took shelter under the high reedy bank of the lake, made fast my bark to the boughs of a low shrubby Hickory, that leaned over the water: such was the violence of the wind, that it raised the waters on the oppo|site shores of the lake several feet perpendicular, and there was a rapid slow of water from the creek into it, which was contrary to its natural course; such floods of rain fell during the space of half or three quarters of an hour that my boat was filled, and I expected every moment, when I should see her sink to the bottom of the lake; and the violence of the wind kept the cable so constantly extended, that it was beyond my ability to get to her; my box which contained my books of specimens and other collections, was floating about in her; and for a great part of the time the rain came down with such rapidity and fell in such quantities, that every object was totally obscured, excepting the continu|al streams or rivers of lightning, pouring from the clouds; all seemed a frightful chaos. When the wind and rain abated, I was overjoyed to see the face of nature again appear.

IT took me an hour or more to clear the water out of my bark. I then crossed the lake before a brisk and favourable breeze (it was about a mile o|ver) and landed safely at the plantation.

WHEN I arrived my friend was affrighted to see me, and immediately enquired of me in what manner I came there, supposing it impossible (until I had shewed him my boat) that I could have arrived by water, through so tremendous a hurricane.

INDEED I saw plainly that they were greatly ter|rified, having suffered almost Irreparable damages from the violence of the storm; all the buildings on the plantation except his own dwelling-house, were laid almost flat to the ground, or the logs and roof rent asunder and twisted about; the mansion|house shook and reeled over their heads. He had nearly one hundred acres of the Indigo plant almost ripe for the first cutting, which was nearly ruined, and several acres of very promising Sugar-cane, totally spoile•• for the season. The great Live Oaks which had been left standing about the fields, were torn to pieces, their limbs lying scattered over the ground: and one very large one which stood near his house torn down, which could not have been done by the united strength of a thousand men. But what is incredible in the midst of this devast|ation and ruin, providentially no lives were los•• although there were about sixty Negro slaves on the plantation, and most of them in their huts when the storm came on, yet they escaped with their lives, though several were badly wounded.

I CONTINUED here three days, indeed it took most of the time of my abode with him, to dry my books and specimens of plants. But with attention and

care I saved the greatest number of them; though some were naturally so delicate and fragile, that it was impossible to recover them. Here is a vast bo|dy of land belonging to this estate; of high ridg|es fit for the culture of Corn, Indigo, Cotton, Ba|tatas, &c. and of low swamps and marshes, which when properly drained and tilled, would be suitable for Rice, these rich low grounds when drained and ridged, are as productive as the natural high land, and vastly more durable, especially for Sugar-cane, Corn and even Indigo; but this branch of agricul|ture being more expensive, these rich lands are ne|glected, and the upland only is under culture. The farm is situated on the East shore of the beautiful Long Lake, which is above two miles long, and near a mile broad, which communicates with the St. Juan, by the little river which I ascended; it is about one and an half mile in length, and thirty or forty yards wide; this river, as well as the lake, a|bounds with fish, and wild fowl of various kinds, and incredible numbers especially during the winter sea son, when the geese and ducks arrive here from the North.

* 1.5 NEW-SMYRNA, a pretty thriving town, is a co|lony of Greeks and Minorquies, established by Mr. Turnbull, on the Musquito river and very near its

mouth, is about thirty miles over land from this farm.

MY friend rode with me, about four miles distance from the house, to shew me a vast fountain of warm or rather hot mineral water, which issued from a high ridge or bank on the river in a great cove or bay, a few miles above the mouth of the creek which I ascended to the lake; it boils up with great force, forming immediately a vast circular bason, capacious enough for several shallops to ride in, and runs with rapidity into the river three or four hun|dred yards distance. This creek, which is formed instantly by this admirable fountain, is wide and deep enough for a sloop to sail up into the bason. The water is perfectly diaphanous, and here are continually prodigious number and variety of fish; they appear as plain as though lying on a table be|fore your eyes, although many feet deep in the wa|ter. This tepid water has a most disagreeable taste, brassy and vitriolic, and very offensive to the smell, much like bilge water or the washings of a gun-bar|rel, and is smelt at a great distance. A pale bluish or pearl coloured coagulum covers every inanimate sub|stance that lies in the water, as logs, limbs of trees, &c. Alligators and gar were numerous in the ba|son, even at the apertures where the ebulition e|merges through the rocks, as also many other tribes of fish. In the winter season several kinds of fish and aquatic animals migrate to these warm foun|tains. The forbiding taste and smell of these wa|ters seem to be owing to vitriolic and sulphurious fumes or vapours, and these being condensed, form this coagulum, which represents flakes of pearly clouds in the clear cerulean waters in the bason. A charm|ing

Orange grove, with Magnolias, Oaks and Palms, half surrounded this vast fountain. A delightful stream of cool salubrious water issues from the ridge, meandering along and enters the creek just below the bason. I returned in the evening, and next day sat off again down the river.

MY hospitable friend, after supplying me with necessaries, prevailed on me to accept of the com|pany and assistance of this purveyor, one day's voyage down the river, whom I was to set on shore at a certain bluff, upwards of twenty miles below, but not above one third that distance by land; he was to be out in the forests one day, on a hunt for tur|keys.

THE current of the river being here confined with|in its perpendicular banks, ran briskly down; we chearfully descended the grand river St. Juan, en|joying enchanting prospects.

BEFORE night we reached the destined port, at a spacious Orange grove. Next morning we separa|ted, and I proceeded down the river. The pros|pects on either hand are now pleasing and I view them at leisure, and without toil or dread.

INDUCED by the beautiful appearance of the green meadows, which open to the Eastward, I determi|ned not to pass this Elisium without a visit. Behold the loud, sonorous, watchful savanna crane (grus pra|tensis) with musical clangor, in detached squadrons. ••hey spread their light elastic sail; at first they ••ove from the earth heavy and slow, they labour and beat the dense air; they form the line with wide ex|tended wings, tip to tip, they all rise an•• 〈◊〉〈◊〉 toge|ther as one bird; now they mount aloft, 〈◊〉〈◊〉 wheeling about, each squadron performs its eyo••••|tion

incircling the expansive plains, observing each one their own orbit; then lowering sail, descend on the verge of some glittering lake; whilst other squadrons, ascending aloft in spiral circles, bound on interesting discoveries, wheel round and double the promontory, in the silvery regions of the cloud|ed skies, where, far from the scope of eye, they carefully observe the verdant meadows on the bor|ders of the East Lake; then contract their plumes and descend to the earth, where, resting a while on some verdant eminence, near the flowery border of the lake, with dignified, yet slow, respectful steps, approach the kindred band; they confer and treat for habitation; the bounds and precincts being set|tled, they confederate and take possession.

THERE is inhabiting the low shores and swamps of this river and the lakes of Florida, as well as Georgia, a very curious bird, called by an Indian name (Ephouskyca * 1.6) which signifies in our language the crying bird. I cannot determine what genus of European birds to join it with. It is about the size of a large domestic hen; all the body, above and beneath, is of a dark lead colour, every feather edged or tipped with white, which makes the bird appear speckled on a near view; the eye is large and placed high on the head, which is very promi|nent; the bill or beak is five or six inches in length, arched or bent gradually downwards, in that respect to be compared to one half of a bent bow, it is large or thick near the base, compressed on each side, and flatted at top and beneath, which makes it appear four square for more than inch, where the nostrils are placed, from whence to their tips, both mandi|bles are round, gradually lessening or tapering to

their extremities, which are thicker for about half an inch than immediately above, by which the man|dib••••s never fit quite close their whole length; the upper mandible is a small matter longer than the under; the bill is of a dusky green colour, more bright and yellowish about the base and angles of the mouth; the tail is very short and the middle feather the longest, the others on each side shorten gradually, and are of the colour of the rest of the bird, only somewhat darker; the two shortest or outermost feathers are perfectly white, which the bird has a faculty of flirting out on either side, as quick as a flash of lightning, especially when he hears or sees any thing that disturbs him, uttering at the same instant an extreme harsh and loud shriek; his neck is long and slender, and his legs are also long and bare of feathers above the knee, like those of the bittern, and are black or of a dark lead colour.

THERE are two other species of this genus, which agree in almost every particular, with the above description, except in size and colour: the first * 1.7 of these I shall mention is a perfect white, except the prime quill ••eathers, which are as black as those of a crow; the bill and legs of a beautiful clear red, as also a space clear of feathers about the eyes. The other species * 1.8 is black on the upper side, the breast and belly white, and the legs and beak as white as snow; both these species are about half the size of the crying bird. They fly in large flocks or squadrons, even|ing and morning to and from their feeding places or roosts; both species are called Spanish curlews: these and the crying bird feed chiefly on cray fish,

whose cells they probe, and with their strong pinch|ing bills drag them out: all the three species are esteemed excellent food.

IT is a pleasing sight at times of high winds and heavy thunder storms, to observe the numerous squa|drons of these Spanish curlews driving to and fro, turning and tacking about, high up in the air, when by their various evolutions in the different and op|posite currents of the wind high in the clouds, their silvery white plumage gleams and sparkles like the brightest chrystal, reflecting the sun-beams that dart upon them between the dark clouds.

SINCE I have turned my observation upon the birds of this country, I shall notice another very singular one, which though already most curiously and exactly figured by Catesby, yet it seems to be nearly allied to those before mentioned, I mean the bird which he calls the wood pelican. * 1.9 This is a large bird, perhaps near three feet high when standing erect. The bill is very long and strong, bending with a moderate curve, from the base to the tip, the upper mandible is the largest, and re|ceives the edges of the nether one into it its whole length; the edges are very sharp and firm, the whole of a dark ash or horn colour; the forehead round the base of the beak, and sides of the head is bare of feathers, and of a dark greenish colour, in which space is placed the eyes, which are very large; the remainder of the head and neck is of a nut brown colour; the back of light bluish grey; upper part of the wings, breast and belly almost white, with some slight dashes of grey; the quill|feathers and tail, which are very short, are of a dark slate colour, almost black; the legs whi••h are ve|ry

long, and bare of feathers a great length above the knees, are of a dark dull greenish colour: they have a small bag or pouch under their throat: they feed on serpents, young alligators, frogs and other reptiles.

THIS solitary bird does not associate in flocks, but is generally seen alone; commonly near the banks of great rivers, in vast marshes or meadows; espe|cially such as are caused by inundations, and also in the vast deserted Rice plantations; he stands a|lone on the topmost limb of tall dead Cypress trees, his neck contracted or drawn in upon his shoulders, and beak resting like a long scythe upon his breast: in this pensive posture and solitary situation, they look extremely grave, sorrowful and melancholy, as if in the deepest thought. They are never seen on the salt sea coast, and yet are never found at a great distance from it. I take this bird to be of a different genus from the tantalus, and perhaps ap|proaches the nearest to the Egyptian ibis of any other bird yet known.

THERE are two species of vultures * 1.10 in these re|gions I think not mentioned in history: the first we shall describe is a beautiful bird, near the size of a turkey buzzard * 1.11 but his wings are much shorter, and consequently he falls greatly below that ad|mirable bird in sail. I shall call this bird the paint|ed vulture. The bill is long and strait almost to the point, when it is hooked or bent suddenly down and sharp; the head and neck bare of feathers nearly down to the stomach, when the feathers be|gin to cover the skin, and soon become long and of a soft texture, forming a ruff or tippet, in which the bird by contracting his neck can hide that as

well as his head; the bare skin on the neck appears loose and wrinkled, which is of a deep bright yel|low colour, intermixed with coral red; the hinder part of the neck is nearly covered with short, stiff hair; and the skin of this part of the neck is of a dun-purple colour, gradually becoming red as it approaches the yellow of the sides and forepart. The crown of the head is red; there are lobed lap|pets of a redish orange colour, which lay on the base of the upper mandible. But what is singular, a large portion of the stomach hangs down on the breast of the bird, in the likeness of a sack or half wallet, and seems to be a duplicature of the craw, which is naked and of a redish flesh colour, this is part|ly concealed by the feathers of the breast, unless when it is loaded with food, (which is commonly, I believe, roasted reptiles) and then it appears prominent. The plumage of the bird is generally white or cream co|lour, except the quill-feathers of the wings and two or three rows of the coverts, which are of a beau|tiful dark brown; the tail which is large and white is tipped with this dark brown or black; the legs and feet of a clear white; the eye is encircled with a gold coloured iris; the pupil black.

THE Creeks or Muscogulges construct their roy|al standard of the tail feather of this bird, which is called by a name signifying the eagle's tail; this they carry with them when they go to battle, but then it is painted with a zone of red within the brown tips; and in peaceable negociations it is displayed new, clean and white, this standard is held most sacred by them on all occasions; and is constructed and orna|mented with great ingenuity. These birds seldom appear but when the deserts are set on fire (which happens almost every day throughout the year, in

some part or other, by the Indians, for the purpose of rousing the game, as also by the lightning:) when they are seen at a distance soaring on the wing, gathering from every quarter, and gradually approaching the burnt plains, where they alight upon the ground yet smoking with hot embers; they gather up the roasted serpents, frogs and lizards; filling their sacks with them; at this time a person may shoot them at pleasure, they not being willing to quit the feast, and indeed seem to brave all danger.

THE other species may very properly be called the coped vulture, and is by the inhabitants called the carrion crow; as to bulk or weight, he is nearly equal to either of the others before mentioned. His wings are not long and sharp pointed, but broad and round at their extremities, having a clumsy appearance; the tail is remarkably short, which he spreads like a little fan, when on the wing; they have a heavy laborious flight, flapping their wings, then sail a little and then flap their wings a|gain, and so on as if recovering themselves when falling; the beak is very long and strait, until it makes a sudden hook at the point, in the man|ner of the other vultures; the whole bird is of a fable or mourning colour; the head and neck down to the breast a bare of feathers, and the skin wrink|led, this unfeathered skin is of a deep livid purple, appearing black and thinly set with short black hair; he has a ruff or tippet of long soft feathers, like a collar hearing on his breast, in which he can con|ceal his neck and head at pleasure.

HAVING agreeably diverted away the intol|erable heats of sultry noon in fruitful fragrant groves, with renewed vigour I again resume my

sylvan pilgrimage. The afternoon and evening mo|derately warm, and exceeding pleasant views from the river and its varied shores. I passed by Battle lagoon and the bluff, without much opposition; but the crocodiles were already assembling in the pass. Before night I came to, at a charming Orange grove bluff, on the East side of the little lake, and after fixing my camp on a high open situation, and col|lecting a plenty of dry wood for fuel, I had time to get some fine trout for supper and joyfully re|turn to my camp.

WHAT a most beautiful creature is this fish before me! gliding to and fro, and figuring in the still clear waters, with his orient attendants and asso|ciates: the yellow bream * 1.12 or sun fish. It is a|bout eight inches in length, nearly of the shape of the trout, but rather larger in proportion over the shoulders and breast; the mouth large, and the branchiostega opens wide; the whole fish is of a pale gold (or burnished brass) colour, darker on the back and upper sides; the scales are of a proporti|onable size, regularly placed, and every where va|riably powdered with red, russet, silver, blue and green speaks, so laid on the scales as to appear like real dust or opaque bodies, each apparent particle being so projected by light and shade, and the va|rious attitudes of the fish, as to deceive the sight; for in reality nothing can be of a more plain and polished surface than the scales and whole body of the fish; the fins are of an Orange colour; and like all the species of the bream, the ultimate an|gle of the branchiostega terminate by a little spa|tula, the extreme end of which represents a crescent of the finest ultramarine blue, encircled with silver,

and velvet black, like the eye in the feathers of a peacock's train; he is a fish of prodigious strength and activity in the water; a warrior in a gilded coat of mail, and gives no rest or quarters to small fish, which he preys upon; they are delicious food and in great abundance.

THE Orange grove, is but narrow, betwixt the the river banks and ancient Indian fields, where there are evident traces of the habitations of the an|cients, surrounded whith groves of Live Oak, Laurel Magnolia, Zanthoxilon, Liquid-amber, and others.

HOW harmonious and soothing is this native syl|van music now at still evening! inexpressibly tender ate the responsive cooings of the innocent dove, in the fragrant Zanthoxilon groves, and the variable and tuneful warblings of the nonparel; with the more sprightly and elevated strains of the blue linnet and golden icterus; this is indeed harmony even amidst the incessant croaking of the frogs; the shades of silent night are made more chearful, with the shrill voice of the whip-poor-will * 1.13 and active mock-bird.

MY situation high and airy, a brisk and cool breeze steadily and incessantly passing over the clear waters of the lake, and fluttering over me through the surrounding groves, wings its way to the moon-light savannas, while I repose on my sweet and healthy couch of the soft Tillandsi ulnea-ads••ites, and the lat|ter gloomy and still hours of night passed rapidly away as it were in a moment; I arose, strengthen|ed

and chearful, in the morning. Having some repairs to make in the tackle of my vessel, I paid my first attention to them; which being accom|plished, my curiosity prompted me to penetrate the grove and view the illumined plains.

WHAT a beautiful display of vegetation is here before me! seemingly unlimited in extent and va|riety; how the dew-drops twinkle and play upon the sight, trembling on the tips of the lucid, green savanna, sparkling as the gem that flames on the turban of the Eastern prince; see the pearly tears rolling off the buds of the expanding Granadilla * 1.14; behold the azure fields of cerulean Ixea! what can equal the rich golden flowers of the Cana lutea, which ornament the banks of you serpentine rivulet, me|andering over the meadows; the almost endless varieties of the gay Phlox, that enamel the swelling green banks, associated with the purple Verbena co|rymbosa, Viola, pearly Gnaphalium, and silvery Per|dicium; how fantastical looks the libertine Clito|ria, mantling the shrubs, on the ••istas skirting the groves. My morning excursion finished, I return|ed to the camp, breakfasted, then went on board my boat, and gently descended the noble river and pas|sed by several openings of extensive plains and meadows, environing the East Lake, charming be|yond compare; at evening I came to at a good harbour, under the high banks of the river, and rested during the night, amidst the fragrant groves, exposed to the constant breezes from the river: here I made ample collections of specimens and grow|ing roots of curious vegetables, which kept me ful|ly employed the greatest part of the day, and in the evening arrived at a charming spot on the East

bank, which I had marked on my ascent up the ri|ver, where I made some addition to my collecti|ons, and the next day I employed myself in the same manner, putting into shore frequently, at con|venient places, which I had noticed; and in the evening arrived again at the upper store, where I had the pleasure of finding my old friend, the tra|der, in good health and chearful, and his affairs in a prosperous way. There were also a small party of Indians here, who had lately arrived with their hunts to purchase goods. I continued a few days at this post, searching its environs for curious ve|getable productions, collecting seeds and planting growing roots in boxes, to be transported to the lower trading house.

NOW, having procured necessaries to accommo|date me on my voyage down to the lower store, I bid adieu to my old friend and benefactor, Mr. Job Wiggens, embarked alone on board my little for|tunate vessel, and sa•••• sail; I chose to follow the Eastermost channel of the river to the Great Lake, because it ran by high banks and bluffs of the East|ern main the greatest part of the distance, which afforded me an opportunity of observing a far great|er variety of natural subjects, than if I had taken the Western or middle channel, which slowed thro' s••••••mps and marshes.

AT evening I arrived at Cedar Point, my former safe and pleasant harbour, at the East cape of the Great Lake, where I had noticed some curious shrubs and plants; here I rested, and on the smooth and gentle current launch again into the little oce|an of Lake George, meaning now, on my return, to coast his Western shores in search of new beau|ties in the bounteous kingdom of Flora.

[figure]

IXEA CAELESTINA. Rad. bulb•••••• sulrotunda. Caulis ••res, ••aginatus Foliis lineari|enciolatis, cuspidat•••••• Floribus expansis magnis ca••••uleis. vid. Tourn

I WAS however induced to deviate a little from my intended course, and touch at the inchanting little isle of Palms. This delightful spot, planted by nature, is almost an entire grove of Palms, with a few pyramidal Magnolias, Live Oaks, golden O|range, and the animating Zanthoxilon; what a beau|tiful retreat is here! blessed unviolated spot of earth! rising from the limpid waters of the lake; its fra|grant groves and blooming lawns invested and pro|tected by encircling ranks of the Yucca gloriosa; a fascinating atmosphere surrounds this blissful gar|den; the balmy Lantana, ambrosial Citra, perfu|med Crinum, perspiring their mingled odours, wast|ed through Zanthoxilon groves. I at last broke away from the enchanting spot, and stepped on board my boat, hoisted sail and soon approached the coast of the main, at the cool ev•• of ••ay; then travers|ing a capacious semicircular cove of the lake, verg|ed by low, extensive grassy meadows, I at length by dusk made a safe harbour, in a little lagoon, on the sea shore or strand of a bold sandy point, which descended from the surf of the lake; this was a clean sandy beach, hard and firm by the beating surf, when the wind sets from the East coast; I drew up my light vessel on the sloping shore, that she might be safe from the beating waves in case of a sudden storm of wind in the night. A few yards back the land was a little elevated, and over|grown with thickets of shrubs and low trees, con|sisting chiefly of Zanthoxilon, Olea Americana, Rhamus frangula, Sideroxilon, Morus, Ptelea, Ha|lesia, Querci, Myrica cerifera and others; these groves were but low, yet sufficiently high to shel|ter me from the chilling dews; and being but a few yards distance from my vessel, here I fixed my encampment. A brisk wind arising from the lake,

drove away the clouds of musquitoes into the thick|ets. I now, with difficulty and industry, collected a sufficiency of dry wood to keep up a light during the right, and to roast some trout which I had caught when descending the river, their heads I stewed in the juice of Oranges, which, with boiled rice, af|forded me a wholsome and delicious supper: I hung the remainder of my broiled fish on the snags of some shrubs over my head. I at last, after recon|noitring my habitation, returned, spread abroad my skins and blanket upon the clean sands by my fire side, and betook myself to repose.

HOW glorious the powerful sun, minister of the Most High, in the rule and government of this earth, leaves our hemisphere, retiring from our sight beyond the western forests! I behold with gra|titude his departing smiles, tinging the fleecy rose|ate clouds, now riding far away on the Eastern ho|rizon; behold they vanish from sight in the azure skies!

ALL now silent and peaceable, I suddenly fell a|sleep. At midnight I awake; when raising my head erect, I find myself alone in the wilderness of Flo••••da, on the shores of Lake George. Alone in|deed, but under the care of the Almighty, and pro|tected by the invisible hand of my guardian angel.

WHEN quite awake, I started at the heavy tread of some animal, the dry limbs of trees upon the ground crack under his feet, the close shrubby thick|ets part and bend under him as he rushes off.

I REKINDLED up my sleepy fire, lay in contact the exfoliated smoking brands damp with the dew of heaven.

THE bright flame ascends and illuminates the ground and groves around me.

WHEN looking up, I found my fish carried off, though I had thought them safe on the shrubs, just over my head, but their scent, carried to a great distance by the damp nocturnal breezes, I suppose were too powerful attractions to resist.

PERHAPS it may not be time lost, to rest a|while here, and reflect on the unexpected and un|accountable incident, which however pointed out to me an extraordinary deliverance, or protection of my life, from the rapacious wolf that stole my fish from over my head.

HOW much easier and more eligible might it have been for him to have leaped upon my breast in the dead of sleep, and torn my throat, which would have instantly deprived me of life, and then glut|ted his stomach for the present with my warm blood, and dragged off my body, which would have made a feast afterwards for him and his howling associ|ates; I say would not this have been a wiser step, than to have made protracted and circular approach|es, and then after, by chance, espying the fish o|ver my head, with the greatest caution and silence rear up, and take them off the snags one by one, then make off with them, and that so cunningly a•• not to awaken me until he had fairly accomplished his purpose.

THE morning being clear, I sat sail with a fa|vourable breeze, coasting along the shores; when on a sudden the waters became transparent, and discovered the sandy bottom, and the several nati|ons of fish, passing and repassing each other. Fol|lowing

this course I was led to the cape of the lit|tle river, descending from Six mile Springs, and me|anders six miles from its source, through green mea|dows. I entered this pellucid stream, sailing over the heads of innumerable squadrons of fish, which, al|though many feet deep in the water, were distinct|ly to be seen; I passed by charming islets of flourish|ing trees, as Palm, Red Bay, Ash, Maple, Nussa and others. As I approached the distant high forest on the main, the river widens, floating fields of the green Pistia surrounded me, the rap••d stream wind|ing through them. What an alluring scene was now before me! A vast bason or little lake of chrystal waters, half encircled by swelling hills, clad with Orange and odoriferous Illisium groves. The tow|ring Magnolia itself a grove, and the exalted Palm, as if conscious of their transcendent glories, tossed about their lofty heads, painting, with mutable shades, the green floating fields beneath. The so|cial pratling coot enrobed in blue, and the squeel|ing water-hen, with wings half expanded, tripped after each other, over the watery mirror.

I PUT in at an ancient landing place, which is a sloping ascent to a level grassy plain, an old In|dian field. As I intended to make my most consi|derable collections at this place, I proceeded im|mediately to fix my encampment but a few yards from my safe harbour, where I securely fastened my boat to a Live Oak which overshadowed my port.

AFTER collecting a good quantity of fire-wood, as it was about the middle of the afternoon, I re|solved to reconoiter the ground about my encamp|ment: having penetrated the groves next to me, I came to the open forests, consisting of exceed|ingly

tall strait Pines (Pinus Palustris) that stood at a considerable distance from each other, through which appeared at N W. an almost unlimited plain of grassy savannas, embellished with a chain of shal|low ponds, as far as the sight could reach. Here is a species of Magnolia that associates with the Gordonia lasianthus; it is a tall tree; sixty or eighty feet in heighth; the trunk strait; its head termi|nating in the form of a sharp cone; the leaves are oblong, lanciolate, of a fine deep green, and glau|cous beneath; the flowers are large, perfectly white and extremely fragrant; with respect to its flowers and leaves it differs very little from the Magnolia glauca. The silvery whiteness of the leaves of this tree, had a striking and pleasing effect on the sight, as it stood amidst the dark green of the Quercus dentata, Nyssa sylvati••a. Nys. aquatica, Gordonia lasianthus and many others of the same hue. The tall aspiring Gordonia lasianthus, which now stood in my view in all its splendour, is every way deserving of our admiration. Its thick foliage, of a dark green colour, is flowered over with large milk-white fragrant blossoms, on long slender elas|tic peduncles, at the extremities of its numerous branches, from the bosom of the leaves, and renew|ed every morning; and that in such incredible pro|fusion, that the tree appears silvered over with them, and the ground beneath covered with the fallen flowers. It at the same time continually pushes forth new twigs, with young buds on them; and in the winter and spring the third year's leaves, now partly concealed by the new and perfect ones, are gradually changing colour, from green to golden yellow, from that to a scarlet, from scarlet to crim|son; and lastly to a brownish purple, and then fall

to the ground. So that the Gordonia lasianthus may be said to change and renew its garments eve|ry morning throughout the year; and every day appears with unfading lustre. And moreover, af|ter the general flowering is past, there is a thin suc|cession of scattering blossoms to be seen, on some parts of the tree, almost every day throughout the remaining months, until the floral season returns a|gain. Its natural situation, when growing, is on the edges of shallow ponds, or low wet grounds on rivers, in a sandy soil, the nearest to the water of any other tree, so that in drouthy seasons its long serpentine roots which run near or upon the surface of the earth, may reach into the water. When the tree has arrived to the period of perfect mag|nitude, it is sixty, eighty or an hundred feet high, forming a pyramidal head. The wood of old trees when sawn into plank, is deservedly admired in ca|binet-work or furniture; it has a cinnamon colour|ed ground, marbled and veined with many colours; the inner bark is used for dying a redish or sorrel colour; it imparts this colour to wool, cotton, linnen and dressed deer skins, and is highly esteem|ed by tanners.

THE Zamia pumila, the Erythryna coralloden|drum and the Cactus opuntia grow here in great abundance and perfection. The first grows in the open pine forests, in tufts or clumps, a large co|nical strobile disclosing its large coral red fruit, which apears singularly beautiful amidst the deep green fern-like pinnated leaves.

THE Erythryna corallodendrum is six or eight feet high; its prickly limbs stride and wreathe a|bout with singular freedom, and its spikes of crim|son flowers have a fine effect amidst the delicate foliage.

THE Cactus opuntia is very tall, erect and large, and strong enough to bear the weight of a man: some are seven or eight feet high: the whole plant or tree seems to be formed of great oval compress|ed leaves or articulations; those near the earth continually encrease, magnify and indurate as the tree advances in years, and at length lose the bright green colour and glossy surface of their youth, ac|quiring a ligenous quality, with a whitish scabrous cortex: every part of the plant is nearly destitute of aculea, or those fascicles of barbed bristles which are in such plenty on the common dwarf Indian Fig. The cochineal insect were feeding on the leaves: the female of this insect is very large and fleshy, co|vered with a fine white silk or cottony web, which feels always moist or dewy, and seems designed by nature to protect them from the violent heat of the sun. The male is very small in comparison to the female, and but very few in number, they each have two oblong pelucid wings. The large poly|petalus flowers are produced on the edges of the last years leaves, are of a fine splendid yellow, and are succeeded by very large pear shaped fruit, of a dark livid purple when ripe: its pulp is charg|ed with a juice of a fine transparent crimson colour, and has a cool pleasant taste, somewhat like that of a pomegranate; soon after eating this fruit the urine becomes of the same crimson colour, which very much surprises and affrights a stranger, but is attend|ed with no other ill consequence, on the contrary, it is esteemed wholesome, though powerfully diuretic.

ON the left hand of those open forests and savan|nas, as we turn our eyes Southward, South-west and West, we behold an endless wild desert, the upper stratum of the earth of which is a fine white sand, with small pebbles, and at some distance ap|pears entirely covered with low trees and shrubs of

various kinds, and of equal heighth, as dwarf Sweet Bay (Laurus Borbonia) Olea Americana, Mo|rus rubra, Myrica cerifera, Ptelea, AEsculus pavia, Quercus Ilex, Q. glandifer, Q. maritima, foliis ob|cunciformibus obsolete tribobis minoribus, Q. pu|mila, Rhamnus frangula, Halesia diptera, & Te|traptera, Cassine, Ilex ••quifolium, Callicarpa John|sonia, Erythryna corallodendrum, Hibiscus spinifex, Zanthoxilon, Hopea tinctoria, Sideroxilum, with a multitude of other shrubs, many of which are new to me, and some of them admirably beautiful and singular. One of them particularly engaged my notice, which, from its fructification I take to be a species of Cacalia. It is an evergreen shrub, a|bout six or eight feet high, the leaves are general|ly somewhat cuniform, fleshy and of a pale whitish green, both surfaces being covered with a hoary pubescence and vesiculae, that when pressed feels clammy, and emits an agreeable scent; the ascend|ent branches terminate with large tufts or corym|bes of rose coloured flowers, of the same agreea|ble scent; these clusters of flowers, at a distance, look like a large Carnation or fringed Poppy flow|er (Syngenesia Polyg. Oqul. Linn.) Cacalia hete|rophylla, foliis cuniformibus, carnosis, papil. Vi|scidis.

HERE is also another species of the same genus, but it does not grow quite so large; the leaves are smaller, of a yet duller green colour, and the flow|ers are of a pale rose; they are both valuable ever|greens.

THE trees and shrubs which cover these extensive wilds, are about five or six feet high, and seem to be kept down by the annual firing of the desarts, rather than the barrenness of the soil, as I saw a few large Live Oaks, M••••••erry trees and Hicko|ries,

which evidently have withstood the devouring flames. These adjoining wild plains, forests and savannas, are situated lower than the hilly groves on the banks of the lake and river, but what should be the natural cause of it I cannot even pretend to conjecture, unless one may suppose that those high hills, which we call bluffs, on the banks of this great river and its lakes, and which support those magnificent groves and high forests, and are gene|rally composed of shells and sand, were thrown up to their present heig•••••• by the winds and waves, when the bed of the river was nearer the level of the present surface of the earth; but then, to rest upon such a supposition, would be admitting that the waters were heretofore in greater quantities than at this time, or that their present channels and receptacles are worn deeper into the earth.

I NOW directed my steps towards my encamp|ment, in a different direction. I seated myself up|on a swelling green knoll, at the head of the chry|stal bason. Near me, on the left, was a point or projection of an entire grove of the aromatic Illi|sium Floridanum; on my right and all around be|hind me, was a fruitful Orange grove, with Palms and Magnolias interspersed; in front, just under my feet was the inchanting and ••mazing chrystal fountain, which incessantly threw up, from dark, rocky ca|verns below, tons of water every minute, form|ing a bason, capacious enough for large shal|lops to ride in, and a creek of four or five feet depth of water, and near twenty yards over, which meanders six miles through green meadows, pour|ing its limpid waters into the great Lake George, where they seem to remain pure and unmixed. A|bout twenty yards from the upper edge of the bason,

and directly opposite to the mouth or outlet to the creek, is a continual and amazing ebullition, where the waters are thrown up in such abundance and amazing force, as to jet and swell up two or three feet above the common surface: white sand and small particles of shells are thrown up with the waters, near to the top, when they diverge from the cen|ter, subside with the expanding flood, and gently sink again, forming a large rim or funnel round about the aperture or mouth of the fountain, which is a vast perforation through a bed of rocks, the ragged points of which are projected out on every side. Thus far I know to be matter of real fact, and I have related it as near as I could conceive or express myself. But there are yet remaining scenes inexpressibly admirable and pleasing.

BEHOLD, for instance, a vast circular expanse be|fore you, the waters of which are so extremely clear as to be absolutely diaphanous or transparent as the ether; the margin of the bason ornamented with a great variety of fruitful and floriferous trees, shrubs and plants, the pendant golden Orange dan|cing on the surface of the pellucid waters, the balmy air vibrates the melody of the merry birds, tenants of the encircling aromatic grove.

AT the same instant innumerable bands of fish are seen, some cloathed in the most brilliant colours; the voracious crocodile stretched along at full length, as the great trunk of a tree in size, the devouring garfish, inimical trout, and all the varieties of gilded painted bream, the barbed catfish, dread|ed sting-ray, skate and flounder, spotted bass, sheeps head and ••••••inous drum; all in their sepe|rate bands and communities, with free and unsus|picious

intercourse performing their evolutions: there are no signs of enmity, no attempt to devour each other; the different bands seem peaceably and complaisantly to move a little aside, as it were to make room for others to pass by.

BUT behold yet something far more admirable, see whole armies descending into an abyss, into the mouth of the bubbling fountain, they disappear! are they gone forever? is it real? I raise my eyes with terror and astonishment, I look down again to the fountain with anxiety, when behold them as it were emerging from the blue ether of another world, apparently at a vast distance, at their first appearance, no bigger than flies or minnows, now gradually enlarging, their brilliant colours begin to paint the fluid.

NOW they come forward rapidly, and instantly emerge, with the elastic expanding column of chry|staline waters, into the circular bason or funnel, see now how gently they rise, some upright, others obliquely, or seem to lay as it were on their sides, suffering themselves to be gently lifted or born up, by the expanding fluid towards the surface, sail|ing or floating like butterflies in the cerulean ether: then again they as gently descend, diverge and move off; when they rally, form again and rejoin their kindred tribes.

THIS amazing and delightful scene, though real, appears at first but as a piece of excellent paint|ing; there seems no medium, you imagine the picture to be within a few inches of your eyes, and that you may without the least difficulty touch any one of the fish, or put your finger upon the croco|dile's eye, when it really is twenty or thirty feet under water.

AND although this paradise of fish, may seem to exhibit a just representation of the peaceable and happy state of nature which existed before the fall, yet in reality it is a mere representation; for the nature of the fish is the same as if they were in lake George or the river; but here the water or element in which they live and move, is so perfectly clear and transparent, it places them all on an equality with regard to their ability to injure or escape from one another; (as all river fish of prey, or such as feed upon each other, as well as the unwieldy crocodile, take their prey by surprise; secreting themselves under covert or in ambush, until an opportunity offers, when they rush suddenly upon them:) but here is no covert, no ambush, here the trout freely passes by the very nose of the alligator and laughs in his face, and the bream by the trout.

BUT what is really surprising, that the conscious|ness of each others safety or some other latent cause, should so absolutely alter their conduct, for here is not the least attempt made to injure or disturb one another.

THE sun passing below the horizon, and night ap|proaching, I arose from my seat, and proceeding on arrived at my camp, kindled my fire, supped and reposed peaceably. And rising early, employed the fore part of the day in collecting specimens of grow|ing roots and seeds. In the afternoon, left these Elisian springs and the aromatic graves, and briskly descend the pellucid little river, re-entering the great lake; the wind being gentle and fair for Mount Royal, I hoisted sail and successfully crossing the N. West bay, about nine miles, came to at Rocky Point, the West cape or promontory, as we enter the river descending towards Mount Royal:

these are horizontal slabs or flat masses of rocks, rising out of the lake two or three feet above its surface, and seem an aggregate composition or concrete of sand, shells and calcarious cement; of a dark grey or dusky colour; this stone is hard and firm enough for buildings, and serve very well for light hand mill-stones; and when calcined affords a coarse lime; they lay in vast horizontal masses up|on one another, from one to two or three feet in thickness, and are easily seperated and broke to any size or form, for the purpose of building. Rocky Point is an airy cool and delightful situation, com|manding a most ample and pleasing prospect of the lake and its environs; but here being no wood, I re-embarked and sailed down a little farther to the island in the bay, where I went on shore at a mag|nificent grove of Magnolias and Oranges, desi|rous of augmenting my collections. Arose early next morning, and after ranging the groves and savannas, returned, embarked again, and descend|ing, called at Mount Royal, where I enlarged my collections; and bidding adieu to the gentleman and lady, who resided here, and who treated me with great hospitality on my ascent up the river; arrived in the evening at the lower trading house.

CHAP. VI

ON my returns from my voyage to the upper store, I understood the trading company designed for Cuf|cowilla, that they had been very active in their pre|parations, and would be ready to set off in a few days; I therefore availed myself of the little time allowed me to secure and preserve my collections, against the arrival of the trading schooner, which was hourly expected, that every thing might be in readiness to be shipped on board her, in case she should load again and return for Savanna during my absence.

EVERY necessary being now in readiness, early on a fine morning we proceeded, attended by four men under the conduct of an old trader, whom Mr. M'Latche had delegated to treat with the Cowkeep|er and other chiefs of Cuscowilla, on the subject of re-establishing the trade, &c. agreeable to the late treaty of St. Augustine.

FOR the first four or five miles we travelled West|ward, over a perfectly level plain, which appeared before and on each side of us, as a charming green meadow, thinly planted with low spreading Pine trees (P. palustri.) The upper stratum of the earth is a fine white chrystaline sand, the very upper sur|face of which being mixed or incorporated with the ashes of burnt vegetables, renders it of suffici|ent strength or fertility to clothe itself perfectly, with a very great variety of grasses, herbage and remarkably low shrubs, together with a very dwarf species of Palmetto (Corypha pumila stipit. serratis.)

Of the low shrubs many were new to me and of a very pleasing appearance, particularly a species of Annona (Annona incarna, floribus grandioribus pa|niculatis;) this grows three, four or five feet high, the leaves somewhat cuniform or broad lanciolate, attenuating down to the petiole, of a pale or light green colour, covered with a pubescence or short fine down; the flowers very large, perfectly white and sweet scented, many connected together on large loose panicles or spikes; the fruit of the size and form of a small cucumber, the skin or exterior surface somewhat rimose or scabrous, containing a yellow pulp of the consistence of a hard custard, and very delicious, wholsome food. This seems a variety, if not the same that I first remarked, grow|ing on the Alatamaha near Fort Barrington, Char|lotia and many other places in Georgia and East Florida; and I observed here in plenty the very dwarf decumbent Annona, with narrow leaves, and vari|ous flowers already noticed at Alatamaha (Annona pigmea.) Here is also abundance of the beautiful little dwarf Kalmea ciliata, already described. The white berried Empetrum, a very pretty evergreen, grows here on somewhat higher and drier knolls, in large patches or clumps, associated with Olea A|mericana, several species of dwarf Querci (Oaks) Vaccinium, Gordonia lasianthus, Andromeda fer|ruginia and a very curious and beautiful shrub which seems allied to the Rhododendron, Cassine, Rham|nus frangula, Andromeda nitida, ••amp;c. which being of dark green foliage, diversifies and enlivens the landscape; but what appears very extraordinary, is to behold here, depressed and degraded, the glo|rious pyramidal Magnolia grandiflora, associated amongst these vile dwarfs, and even some of them rising above it though not five feet high; yet stil,

shewing large, beautiful and expansive white fra|grant blossoms, and great heavy cones on slender procumbent branches, some even lying on the earth; the ravages of fire keep them down, as is evident from the vast excrescent tuberous roots, covering several feet of ground, from which these slender shoots spring.

IN such clumps and coverts are to be seen several kinds of birds, particularly a species of jay; they are generally of an azure blue colour, have no crest or tuft of feathers on the head, nor are they so large as the great crested blue jay of Virginia, but are equally clamorous (pica glandaria cerulea non crestata.) The towee bird (fringilla ••rythrophthal|ma.) are very numerous, as are a species of bluish grey butcher bird (lanius.) Here were also lizards and snakes. The lizards were of that species called in Carolina, scorpions: they are from five to six inches in length, of a slender form; the tail in par|ticular is very long and small; they are of a yellow|ish clay colour, varied with longitudinal lines or stripes of a dusky brown colour, from head to tail; they are wholly covered with very small squamae, vibrate their tail, and dart forth and brandish their forked tongue after the manner of serpents, when they are surprised or in pursuit of their prey, which are scarabel, locustae, musci, and other insects, but I 〈◊〉〈◊〉 not learn that their bite is poisonous, yet I have observed cats to be sick soon after eating them. After passing over this extensive, level, hard, wet savanna, we crossed a fine brook or rivulet; the water cool and pleasant; its banks adorned with varieties of trees and shrubs, particularly the deli|cate Cyrilla racemiflora, Chionanthus, Clethra, Nys|sa syivatica, Andromeda nitida, Andromeda formo|sissima: and here were great quantities of a very

large and beautiful Filex osmunda, growing in great tufts or clumps. After leaving the rivulet we pass|ed over a wet, hard, level glade or down, covered with a fine short grass, with abundance of low saw Palmetto, and a few shrubby Pine trees, Quercus ni|gra, Quercus sinuata or scarlet Oak: then the path descends to a wet bay-gale; the ground a hard, fine white sand, covered with black slush, which conti|nued above two miles, when it gently rises the high|er sand hills, and directly after passes through a fine grove of young long leaved Pines. The soil seem|ed here, loose, brown, coarse, sandy loam, though fertile. The ascent of the hill, ornamented with a variety and profusion of herbacious plants and grass|es, particularly Amaryllis atamasco, Clitoria, Phlox, Ipomea, Convolvulus, Verbena corymbosa, Ruollia, Viola, &c. A magnificent grove of stately Pines, succeeding to the expansive wild plains we had a long time traversed, had a pleasing effect, rousing the faculties of the mind, awakening the imaginati|on by its sublimity, and arresting every active, in|quisitive idea, by the variety of the scenery, and the solemn symphony of the steady Western breezes, playing incessantly, rising and falling through the thick and wavy foliage.

THE Pine groves passed, we immediately find our|selves on the entrance of the expansive airy Pine fo|rests, on parallel chains of low swelling mounds, called the Sand Hills, their ascent so easy, as to be almost imperceptible to the progressive traveller, yet at a distant view, before us in some degree ex|hibit the appearance of the mountainous swell of the ocean immediately after a tempest; but yet, as we approach them, they insensibly disappear, and seem to be lost, and we should be ready to conclude

all to be a visionary scene, were it not for the spark|ling ponds and lakes, which at the same time gleam through the open forests, before us and on every side, retaining them on the eye, until we come up with them; and at last the imagination re|mains flattered and dubious, by their uniformity, being mostly circular or eliptical, and almost sur|rounded with expansive green meadows; and al|ways a picturesque dark grove of Live Oak, Mag|nolia, Gordonia and the fragrant Orange, encir|cling a rocky shaded grotto, of transparent water, on some border of the pond or lake; which, with|out the aid of any poetic fable, one might natural|ly suppose to be the sacred abode or temporary re|sidence of the guardian spirit, but is actually the possession and retreat of a thundering absolute cro|codile.

ARRIVED early in the evening at the Halfway pond, where we encamped and stayed all night. This lake spreads itself in a spacious meadow, be|neath a chain of elevated sand hills, the sheet of water at this time was about three miles in circum|ference; the upper end, and just under the hills, are surrounded by a crescent of dark groves, which shaded a rocky grotto. Near this place, was a slo|ping green bank, terminating by a point of flat|rocks, which projected into the lake, and formed one point of the crescent that partly surrounded the vast grotto or bason of transparent waters, which is called by the traders a ••••nk-hole, a singular kind of vortex or conduit, to the subteranean recepta|cles of the waters; but though the waters of these ponds in the summer and dry seasons, evidently tend towards these sinks, yet it is so flow and gradual, as to be almost imperceptible. There is always a

meandering channel winding through the savannas or meadows, which received the waters spread over them, by several lateral smaller branche•• slowly conveying them along into the lake, and finally in|to the bason, and with them nations of the finny tribes.

JUST by the little cape of flat rocks, we fixed our encampment, where I enjoyed a comprehensive and varied scene, the verdant meadows spread a|broad, charmingly decorated by green points of grassy lawns and dark promontories of wood-land, projecting into the green plains.

BEHOLD now at still evening, the sun yet streak|ing the embroidered savannas, armies of fish pur|suing their pilgrimage to the grand pellucid foun|tain, and when here arrived, all quiet and peacea|ble, encircle the little cerulean hemisphere, descend into the dark caverns of the earth; where proba|bly they are separated from each other, by innume|rable paths, or secret rocky avenues; and after en|countering various obstacles, and beholding new and unthought of scenes of pleasure and disgust, af|ter many days absence from the surface of the world, emerge again from the dreary vaults, and appear exulting in gladness, and sporting in the transpa|rent waters of some far distant lake.

THE various kinds of fish and amphibious ani|mals, that inhabit these inlands lakes and waters, may be mentioned here, as many of them here assembled, pass and repass in the lucid grotto: first the crocodile alligator; great brown spotted garr, accoutred, in an impenetrable coat of mail; this admirable animal may be termed a cannibal a|mongst fish, as fish are his prey; when fully grown

he is from five to six feet in length, and o•• propor|tionable thickness, of a dusky brown colour, spotted with black. The Indians make use of their sharp teeth to scratch or bleed themselves with, and their pointed scales to arm their arrows. This fish is sometimes eaten, and to prepare them for food, they cover them whole in hot embers, where they bake them, the skin with the scales easily peel off, leaving the mean white and tender.

THE mud fish is large, think or round, and two feet in length; his meat white and tender, but soft and tastes of the mud, and is not much esteemed. The great devouring trout and catfish are in abun|dance; the golden bream or sunfish, the red belli|ed bream, the silver or white bream, the great yel|low and great black or blue bream, also abound here. The last of these mentioned, is a large, beau|tiful and delicious fish; when full grown they are nine inches in length, and five to six inches in breadth; the whole body is of a dull blue or Indigo colour, marked with transverse lists or zones of a darker colour, scatteringly powdered with sky blue, gold and red specks; fins and tail of a dark purple or livid flesh colour; the ultimate angle of the bran|chiostega forming a spatula, the extreme end of which is broad and circular, terminating like the feather of the peacocks train, and having a brilliant spot or eye like it, being delicately painted with a fringed border of a fire colour.

THE great yellow or particoloured bream is in form and proportion much like the foremention|ed, but larger, from a foot to fifteen inches in length; the upper part of his body (i. e.) his back from head to tail, is of a dark clay and dusky co|lour, with transverse dashes or blotches, of redish

[figure]

Plate IV

[figure]

dull purple, or bluish, according to different expo|sures to light; the sides and belly of a bright pale yellow, the belly faintly stained with vermillion red, insensibly blended with the yellow on the sides, and all garnished with fiery, blue, green, gold and sil|ver specks on the scales; the branchiostega is of a yellowish clay or straw colour, the lower edge or border next the opening of the gills, is near a quar|ter of an inch in breadth, of a sea green or ma|rine blue, the ulterior angle protends backwards to a considerable length, in the form of a spatula or feather, the extreme end dilated and circular, of a deep black or crow colour, reflecting green and blue, and bordered round with fiery red, somewhat like red sealing wax, representing a brilliant ruby on the side of the fish; the fins redish, edged with a dove colour: they are deservedly esteemed a most excellent fish.

HERE are, as well as in all the rivers, lakes and ponds, of East Florida, the great soft shelled tor|toise * 1.15: they are very large when full grown, from twenty to thirty and forty pounds weight, extreme|ly fat and delicious, but if eaten to excess, are apt to purge people not accustomed to eat their meat.

THEY are flat and very thin; two feet and a half in length, and eighteen inches in breadth across the back; in form, appearance and texture, very much resembling the sea turtle: the whole back shell, except the vertebrae or ridge, which is not at all prominent, and ribs on each side, is soft or carti|laginous, and easily reduced to a jelly when boil|ed; the anterior and posterior extremities of the back shell, appear to be embossed with round,

horny warts or tubercles, the belly or nether shell is but small and semicartilagenous, except a nar|row cross bar connecting it at each end with the back shell, which is hard and osseous; the head is large and clubbed, of nearly an oval form, the up|per mandible, however, is protended forward, and truncated, somewhat resembling a swine's snout, at the extreme end of which the nostrils are placed; on each side of the root or base of this proboscis are the eyes, which are large; the upper beak is hook|ed and sharp, like a hawk's bill; the lips and cor|ners of the mouth large, tumid, wrinkled and bar|bed with long, pointed warts, which he can project and contract at pleasure, which gives the creature a frightful and disagreeable countenance. They bury themselves in the slushy bottoms of rivers and ponds, under the roots of flags and other aquatic herbage, leaving a hole or aperture just sufficient for their head to play through; in such places they withdraw themselves when hungry, and there seize their prey by surprise, darting out their heads as quick as lightning, upon the unwary ani|mal that unfortunately strolls within their reach: they can extend their neck to a surprising length, which enables them to seize young fowl swimming on the surface of the water above them, which they instantly drag down, They are seen to raise their heads above the surface of the water, in the depths of the lakes and rivers, and blow, causing a faint puffing noise, somewhat like a porpoise; probably this is for pastime, or to charge themselves with a proper supply of fresh air. They are carnivorous, feeding on any animal they can seize, particularly young ducks, frogs and fish.

WE had a large and fat one served up for our

supper, which I at first apprehended we had made a very extravagant waste of, not being able to con|sume one half of its flesh, though excellently well cooked; my companions however seemed regard|less, being in the midst of plenty and variety, at a|ny time within our reach, and to be obtained with little or no trouble or fatigue on our part; when herds of deer were feeding in the green meadows before us; flocks of turkeys, walking in the groves around us, and myriads of fish, of the greatest va|riety and delicacy, sporting in the chrystaline floods before our eyes.

The vultures and ravens, crouched on the crook|ed limbs of the lofty Pines, at a little distance from us, sharpening their beaks, in low debate, waiting to regale themselves on the offals, after our depar|ture from camp.

AT the return of the morning, by the powerful influence of light; the pulse of nature becomes more active, and the universal vibration of life in|sensible and irresistibly moves the wondrous ma|chine: how chearful and gay all nature appears. Hark! the musical savanna cranes, ere the chirping sparrow flirts from his grassy couch, or the glorious sun gilds the ••ops of the Fines, spread their expan|sive wings, leave their lofty roosts, and repair to the ample plains.

FROM Half-way pond, 〈◊〉〈◊〉 proceed Westward, through the high forests of Cuscowilla.

THE appearance of the earth for five or six miles, presented nearly the same scenes as heretofore.

NOW the sand ridges become higher, and their bases proportionably more extensive; the savanna;

and ponds more expansive; the summit of the ridges more gravelly; here and there, heaps or piles of rocks, emerging out of the sand and gra|vel: these rocks are the same sort of concrete of sand and shells as noticed on St. Juans and the great lake. The vegetable productions nearly the same as already mentioned.

WE gently descend again over sand ridges, cross a rapid brook, ripling over the gravelly bed, hur|rying the transparent waters into a vast and beau|tiful lake, through a fine fruitful Orange grove; which magnificently adorns the banks of the lake to a great distance on each side of the capes of the creek. This is a fine situation for a capital town. These waters are tributary to St. Juan's.

WE alighted to refresh ourselves, and adjust our packs. Here are evident signs and traces of a pow|erful settlement of the ancients.

Sat off again, and continued travelling over a magnificent Pine forest, the ridges low, but their bases extensive, with proportionable plains. The steady breezes gently and continually rising and fall|ing, fill the high lonesome forests with an awful re|verential harmony, inexpressibly sublime, and not to be enjoyed any where, but in these native wild Indian regions.

CROSSING another large deep creek of St. Ju|an's the country is a vast level plain, and the soil good for the distance of four or five miles, though light and sandy, producing a forest of stately Pines and laurels, with some others; and a vast profusion of herbage, such as Rudbeckia, Ilelianthus, Silphi|um, Polymnia, Ruellia, Verbena, Rhexea, Convol|vulus

Sophora, Glycine, Vitia, Clitorea, Ipomea, Urtica, Salvia graviolens, Viola and many more. How chearful and social is the rural converse of the various tribes of tree frogs, whilst they look to heaven for prolific showers!

HOW harmonious the shrill tuneful songs of the wood thrush, and the soothing love lays of the amo|rous cuckoo * 1.16! seated in the cool leafy branches of the stately Magnolias and shadowy Elms, Maples and Liquid-amber, together with gigantic Fagus sylvatica, which shade and perfume these sequester|ed groves. How unexpected and enchanting the enjoyment, after traversing a burning sandy desert!

NOW again we behold the open Pine forests, and rise the sandy hills, which continue for some miles, then gently descend again, when a level expansive savanna plain presents to view, which, after enter|ing, and proceeding on, became wet, and covered by a fine short grass, with extensive parterres of the dwarf creeping Palmetto, their stipes sharply tooth|ed or serrated together with clumps of low shrubs, as Kalmia, Andromeda, Annona pygmea, Myrica cerifera, Empetrum, Vaccinium and others.

WE now rise a little again, and pass through a narrow Pine forest, when suddenly opens to view, a vastly extensive and sedgy marsh, expanding South|erly like an open fan, seemingly as boundless as the great ocean: our road crossed the head of it, a|bout three hundred yards over; the bottom here, was hard sand, a foot or more under a soft muddy surface: the traders informed me that these vast marshes lay on the borders of a great lake, many

miles in length, in magnitude exceeding Lake George, and communicates with St. Juan's by a ri|ver * 1.17, its confluence above the lower store at the Little Lake.

OBSERVED as we passed over the sand hills, the dens of the great land tortoise, called gopher: this strange creature remains yet undescribed by histo|rians and travellers. The first signs of this animal's existence, as we travel Southerly, are immediately after we cross the Savanna River. They are to be seen only on the high dry sand hills. When arrived to their greatest magnitude, the upper shell is near eighteen inches in length, and ten or twelve in|ches in breadth; the back is very high, and the shell of a very hard bony substance, consisting of ma|ny regular compartments, united by futures, in the manner of the other species of tortoise, and cover|ed with thin horny plates. The nether or belly shell is large, and regularly divided transversely, 〈◊〉〈◊〉 five parts: these compartments are not knit to|gether like the futures of the skull, or the back shell of the tortoise, but adhere, or are connected to|gether by a very ridgy horny cartilage, which serves as hinges for him to shut up his body within his shell at pleasure. The fore part of the belly shell towards its extremity, is formed somewhat like a spade, ex|tends forward near three inches, and is about an inch and an half in breadth; its extremity is a little bifid, the posteri••r division of the belly shell, is likewise protended backwards considerably, and is deeply bifurcated.

THE legs and feet are covered with flat horny squamea; he 〈◊〉〈◊〉 to have no clefts in them or toes, but long flattish nails or talons, somewhat in

resemblance to the nails of the human fingers, five on the fore feet; the hind legs or feet appear as if truncated, or as stumps of feet, armed all round with sharp, flattish strong nails, the number unde|termined or irregular; the head is of a moderate size, the upper mandible a little hooked, the edges hard and sharp; the eyes are large; the nose pick|ed; the nostrils near together and very minute; the general colour of the animal is a light ash or clay, and at a distance, unless he is in motion, a|ny one would disregard or overlook it as a stone or an old stump. It is astonishing what a weight one of these creatures will bear; it will easily carry any man standing on its back, on level ground. They form great and deep dens in the sand hills, casting out incredible quantities of earth. They are esteemed excellent food; the eggs are larger than a musket ball, perfectly round and the shell hard.

AFTER crossing over this point or branch of the marshes, we entered a noble forest, the land level, and the soil fertile, being a loose, dark brown, coarse sandy loam, on a clay or marley foundation; the forests were Orange groves, overtoped by grand Magnolias, Palms, Live Oaks, Juglans cinerea, Mo|rus rubra, Fagus sylvatica, Telia and Liquid-amber, with various kinds of shrubs and herbacious plants, particularly Callicarpa, Halesia, Sambucus, Zan|thoxilon, Ptelea, Rhamnus frangula, Rudbeckia, Silphium, Polymnia, Indigo fera, Sophora, Salvia gra|violens, &c. We were chearfully received in this hos|pitable shade, by various tribes of ••••rds, their spright|ly songs seemed a prelude to the vicinity of human habitations. This magnificent grove was a wing of the vast forests lying upon the coast of the great and beautiful lake of Cuscowilla, at no great distance

from us. Continuing eight or nine miles through this sublime forest, we entered on an open forest of lofty Pines and Oaks, on gently swelling sand hills, and presently saw the lake, its waters sparkling through the open groves. Near the path was a large artificial mound of earth, on a most charming, high situation, supposed to be the work of the ancient Floridans or Yamasees, with other traces of an In|dian town; here were three or four Indian habi|tations, the women and children saluted us with chearfulness and complaisance. After riding near a mile farther we arrived at Cuscowilla, near the banks: a pretty brook of water ran through the town, and entered the lake just by.

WE were welcomed to the town, and conducted by the young men and maidens to the chief's house, which stood on an eminence, and was distinguished from the rest by its superior magnitude, a large flag being hoisted on a high staff at one corner. We immediately alighted; the chief, who is called the Cowkeeper, attended by several ancient men, came to us, and in a very free and sociable manner, shook our hands (or rather arms) a form of salu|tation peculiar to the American Indians, saying at the same time, "You are come." We followed him to an apartment prepared for the reception of their guests.

THE pipe being filled, it is handed around, after which a large bowl, with what they call "Thin drink," is brought in and set down on a small low table; in this bowl is a great wooden ladle; each person takes up in it as much as he pleases, and af|ter drinking until satisfied, returns it again into the bowl, pushing the handle towards the person in the circle, and so it goes round.

AFTER the usual compliments and enquiries rela|tive to our adventures, &c. the chief trader inform|ed the Cowkeeper, in the presence of his council or attendants, the purport of our business, with which he expressed his satisfaction. He was then informed what the nature of my errand was, and he received me with complaisance, giving me unli|mited permission to travel over the country for the purpose of collecting flowers, medicinal plants, &c. saluting me by the name of PUC PUGGY or the Flow|er hunter, recommending me to the friendship and protection of his people.

THE next day being agreed on to hold a council and transact the business of our embassy, we ac|quainted the chief with our intention of making our encampment on the borders of the great ALA|CHUA SAVANNA, and to return at the time appointed to town, to attend the council according to agree|ment.

SOON after we had fixed on the time and man|ner of proceeding on the further settlement of the treaty, a considerable number of Indians assembled around their chief, when the conversation turned to common and familiar topics.

THE chief is a tall well made man, very affab•••• and cheerful, about sixty years of age, his eyes live|ly and full of fire, his countenance manly and pla|cid, yet ferocious, or what we call savage; his nose aquiline, his dress extremely simple, but his head trimmed and ornamented in the true Creek mode. He has been a great warrior, having then attend|ing him as slaves, many Yamasee captives, taken by himself when young. They were dressed better

than he, served and waited upon him with signs of the most abject fear. The manners and customs of the Alachuas, and most of the lower Creeks or Siminoles, appear evidently tinctured with Spanish civilization. Their religious and civil usages mani|fest a predilection for the Spanish customs. There are several Christians among them, many of whom wear little silver crucifixes, affixed to a wampum collar round their necks, or suspended by a small chain upon their breast. These are said to be bap|tized, and notwithstanding most of them speak and understand Spanish, yet they have been the most bitter and formidable Indian enemies the Spaniards ever had. The slaves, both male and female, are permitted to marry amongst them: their children are free, and considered in every respect equal to themselves, but the parents continue in a state of slavery as long as they live.

IN observing these slaves, we behold at once, in their countenance and manners, the striking con|trast betwixt a state of freedom and slavery. They are the tamest, the most abject creatures that we can possibly imagine: mild, peaceable and tracta|ble, they seem to have no will or power to act but as directed by their masters: whilst the free Indi|ans, on the contrary, are bold, active and clamo|rous. They differ as widely from each other as the bu•••• from the ox.

THE repast is now brought in, consisting of veni|son, stewed with bear's oil, fresh corn cakes, milk and homony, and our drink honey and water, very cool and agreeable. After partaking of this ban|quet, we took leave an departed for the great savanna.

WE soon entered a level, grassy plain, interspers|ed with low, spreading, three leaved Pine trees, large patches of low shrubs, consisting of Prinos glaber, low Myrica, Kalmia glauca, Andromedas of several species, and many other shrubs, with patch|es of Palmetto. We continued travelling through this savanna or bay-gale, near two miles, when the land ascends a little; we then entered a hommock or dark grove, consisting of various kinds of trees, as the Magnolia grandiflora, Corypha palma, Citrus Aurantium, Quercus sempervirens, Mo••us rubra, Ulmus sylvatica, Tilia, Juglans cinerea, AEsculus pa|via, Liquid-amber, Laurus Borbonia, Hopea tincto|ria, Cercis, Cornus Florida, Halesia diptera, Ha|lesia tetraptera, Olea Americana, Callicarpa, An|dromeda arborea, Sideroxilon sericium, Sid. tenax, Vitis labrusca, Hedera arborea, Hedera quinquifo|lia, Rhamnus volubilis, Prunus Caroliniana (pr. flor. racemosis, foliis sempervirentibus, lato-lanceolatis, accumunatis, serratis) Fagus sylvatica, Zanthoxilon clava Herculis, Acer rubrum, Acer negundo, Frax|inus excelsior, with many others already mention|ed. The land still gently rising, the soil fertile, loose, loamy and of a dark brown colour. This continues near a mile, when at once opens to view, the most sudden transition from darkness to light, that can possibly be exhibited in a natural land|scape.

THE extensive Alachua savanna is a level, green plain, above fifteen miles over, fifty miles in cir|cumference, and scarcely a tree or bush of any kind to be seen on it. It is encircled with high, sloping hills, covered with waving forests and fragrant O|range groves, rising from an exuberantly fertile soil. The towering Magnolia grandiflora and transcen|dent

Palm, stand conspicuous amongst them. At the same time are seen innumerable droves of cat|tle; the lordly bull, lowing cow and sleek Capri|cious heifer. The hills and groves re-echo their cheerful, social voices. Herds of sprightly deer, squadrons of the beautiful, fleet Siminole horse, flocks of turkeys, civilized communities of the so|norous, watchful crane, mix together, appearing happy and contented in the enjoyment of peace, 'till disturbed and affrighted by the warrior man. Behold yonder, coming upon them through the darkened groves, sneakingly and unawares, the na|ked red warrior, invading the Elysian fields and green plains of Alachua. At the terrible appear|ance of the painted, fearless, uncontrouled and free Siminole, the peaceful, innocent nations are at once thrown into disorder and dismay. See the different tribes and bands, how they draw towards each o|ther! as it were deliberating upon the general good. Suddenly they speed off with their young in the centre; but the roebuck fears him not: here he lays himself down, bathes and flounces in the cool flood. The red warrior, whose plumed head flashes lightning, whoops in vain; his proud, am|bitious horse strains and pants; the earth glides from under his feet, his flowing main whistles in the wind, as he comes up full of vain 〈◊〉〈◊〉. The bounding roe views his rapid approaches, rises up, lifts aloft his antled head, erects the white flag * 1.18, and fetching a shrill whistle, says to his fleet and free associates, "follow;" he bounds off, and in a few minutes distances his foe a mile; suddenly he stops, turns about, and laughing says, "how vain, go chase meteors in the azure plains above, or hunt butterflies in the fields about your towns."

WE approached the savanna at the South end, by a narrow isthmus of level ground, open to the light of day, and clear of trees or bushes, and not great|ly elevated above the common level, having on our right a spacious meadow, embellished with a little lake, one verge of which was not very distant from us; its shore is a moderately high, circular bank, partly encircling a cove of the pond, in the form of a half mo••••••; the water is clear and deep, and at the distance of some hundred yards, was a large floating field (if I may so express myself) of the Nymphea nilumbo, with their golden blossoms wa|ving to and fro on their lofty stems. Beyond these fields of Nymphea were spacious plains, encompas|sed by dark groves, opening to extensive Pine fo|rests, other plains still appearing beyond them.

THIS little lake and surrounding meadows, would have been alone sufficient to surprise and delight the traveller, but being placed so near the great sa|vanna, the attention is quickly drawn off, and whol|ly engaged in the contemplation of the unlimited, varied, and truly astonishing native wild scenes of landscape and perspective, there exhibited: how is the mind agitated and bewildered, at being thus, as it were, placed on the borders of a new world! On the first view of such an amazing display of the wisdom and power of the supreme author of nature, the mind for a moment seems suspended, and im|pressed with awe.

THIS isthmus being the common avenue or road of Indian travellers, we pitched our camp at a small distance from it, on a rising knoll near the verge of the savanna, under some spreading Live Oaks: this situation was open and airy, and gave us an un|bounded prospect over the adjacent plains. Dewy

evening now comes on, the animating breezes, which cooled and tempered the meridian hours of this sultry season, now gently cease; the glori|ous sovereign of day, calling in his bright beaming emanations, leaves us in his absence to the milder government and protection of the silver queen of night, attended by millions of brilliant luminaries. The thundering alligator has ended his horrifying roar; the silver plumed ganet and stork, the sage and solitary pelican of the wilderness, have already retired to their silent nocturnal habitations, in the neighbouring forests; the sonorous savanna crane, in well disciplined squadrons, now rising from the earth, mount aloft in spiral circles, far above the dense atmosphere of the humid plain; they again view the glorious sun, and the light of day still gleaming on their polished feathers, they sing their evening hymn, then in a strait line majestically de|scend, and alight on the towering Palms or lofty Pines, their secure and peaceful lodging places. All around being still and silent, we repair to rest.

SOON after sun-rise, a party of Indians on horse|back, appeared upon the savanna, to collect toge|ther several herds of cattle which they drove along near our camp, towards the town. One of the party came up and informed us the cattle belong|ed to the chief of Cuscowilla, that he had ordered some of the best steers of his droves to be slaughter|ed for a general feast for the whole town, in com|pliment of our arrival, and pacific negotiations.

THE cattle were as large and fat as those of the rich grazing pastures of Moyomensing in Pennsylva|nia. The Indians drove off the lowing herds, and we soon followed them to town, in order to be at council at the appointed hours, leaving two young men of our party to protect our camp.

UPON our arrival we repaired to the public square or council-house, where the chiefs and senators were already convened, the warriors and young men as|sembled soon after, the business being transacted in public. As it was no more than a ratification of the late treaty of St. Augustine, with some par|ticular commercial stipulations, with respect to the citizens of Alachua, the negociations soon termina|ted to the satisfaction of both parties.

THE banquet succeeds; the ribs and choisest fat pieces of the bullocks, excellently well barbecued, are brought into the apartment of the public square, constructed and appointed for feasting; bowls and kettles of stewed flesh and broth are brought in for the next course, and with it a very singular dish, the traders call it tripe soup; it is made of the bel|ly or paunch of the beef, not overcleansed of its contents, cut and minced pretty fine, and then made into a thin soup, seasoned well with salt and aromatic herbs; but the seasoning not quite strong e|nough to extinguish its original favour and scent. This dish is greatly esteemed by the Indians, but is, in my judgment, the least agreeable they have amongst them.

THE town of Cuscowilla, which is the capital of the Alachua tribe, contains about thirty habitations, each of which consists of two houses nearly the same size, about thirty feet in length, twelve feet wide, and about the same in height; the door is placed midway on one side or in the front; this house is divided equally, across, into two apartments, one of which is the cook room and common hall, and the other their lodging room. The other house is nearly of the same dimensions, standing about twen|ty yards from the dwelling house, its end fronting

the door; this building is two stories high, and con|structed in a different manner, it is divided trans|versly, as the other, but the end next the dwelling house is open on three sides, supported by posts or pillars, it has an open loft or platform, the ascent to which, is by a portable stairs or ladder; this is a pleasant, cool, airy situation, and here the master or chief of the family, retires to repose in the hot seasons, and receives his guests or visitors: the o|ther half of this building is closed on all sides by notched logs; the lowest or ground part is a pota|toe house, and the upper story over it a granary for corn and other provisions. Their houses are con|structed of a kind of frame; in the first place, strong corner pillars are fixed in the ground, with others somewhat less, ranging on a line between; these are strengthened by cross pieces of timber, and the whole with the roof is covered close with the bark of the Cypress tree. This dwelling stands near the 〈◊〉〈◊〉 of a square yard, encompassed by a low 〈◊〉〈◊〉 formed with the earth taken out of the yard, 〈…〉〈…〉 always, carefully swept. Their towns are clean, the inhabitants being particular in laying their filth at a proper distance from their dwellings, which undoubtedly contributes to the healthiness of their habitations.

THE town stands on the most pleasant situation, that could be well imagined or desired, in an inland country; upon a high swelling ridge of sand hills, within three or four hundred yards of a large and beautiful lake, the circular shore of which conti|nually washe•• a sandy beach, under a moderately high sloping bank, terminated on one side by ex|tensive forests, consisting of Orange groves, over|topped with grand Magnolias, Palms, Poplar, Ti|lia,

Live Oaks and others already noticed; and the opposite point of the crescent, gradually retires with hommocky projecting points, indenting the grassy marshes, and lastly terminates in infinite green plains and meadows, united with the skies and wa|ters of the lake; such a natural landscape, such a rural scene, is not to be imitated by the united in|genuity and labour of man. At present the ground betwixt the town and the lake is adorned by an o|pen grove of very tall Pine trees, which standing at a considerable distance from each other, admit a delightful prospect of the sparkling waters. The lake abounds with various excellent fish and wild fowl; there are incredible numbers of the latter, especially in the winter season, when they arrive here from the North to winter.

THE Indians abdicated the ancient Alachua town on the borders of the savanna, and built here, call|ing the new town Cuscowilla; their reasons for re|moving their habitation were on account of its un|healthiness, occasioned, as they say, by the stench of the putrid fish and reptiles in the summer and au|tumn, driven on shore by the alligators, and the exhalations from marshes of the savanna, together with the persecution of the musquitoes.

THEY plant but little here about the town, only a small garden spot at each habitation, consisting of a little 〈◊〉〈◊〉, Beans, Tobacco Citruls, &c. then plantations which supply them with the chief of their vegetable provision, such as Zea, Convol|vulus batata. Cucurbita citrulus, Cuc. laginaria, Cuc. pepo, Cuc. melopepo, Cuc. verrucosa, Do|lichos varieties, &c. lies on the rich prolific lands bor••••ring on the great Alachua savanna, about two miles distance, which plantation is one common in|closure,

and is worked and tended by the whole community; yet every family has its particular part, according to its own appointment, marked off when planted, and this portion receives the com|mon labour and assistance until ripe, when each fa|mily gathers and deposits in its granary its own pro|per share, setting apart a small gift or contribution for the public granary, which stands in the centre of the plantation.

THE youth, under supervisal of some of their ancient people, are daily stationed in their fields, who are continually whooping and hallooing, to chase away crows, jackdaws, black-birds and such predatory animals, and the lads are armed with bows and arrows, who, being trained up to it from their early youth, are sure at a mark, and in the course of the day load themselves with squirrels, birds, &c. The men in turn patrole the Corn fields at night, to protect their provisions from the depredations of night rovers, as bears, raccoons and deer; the two former being immoderately fond of young Corn, when the grain is filled with a rich milk, as sweet and nourishing as cream, and the deer are as fond of the Potatoe vines.

AFTER the feast was over, we returned to our en|campment on the great savanna, towards the even|ing. Our companions, whom we left at the camp, were impatient for our return, having been out horse hunting in the plains and groves during our absence. They soon left us, on a visit to the town, having there some female friends, with whom they were anxious to renew their acquaintance. The Siminole girls are by no means destitute of charms to please the rougher sex: the white traders, 〈◊〉〈◊〉 fully sensible how greatly it is for their advantage

to gain their affections and friendship in matters of trade and commerce; and if their love and esteem for each other is sincere, and upon principles of re|ciprocity, there are but few instance of their ne|glecting or betraying the interests and views of their temporary husbands; they labour and watch con|stantly to promote their private interests, and de|tect and prevent any plots or evil designs which may threaten their persons, or operate against their trade or business.

IN the cool of the evening I embraced the oppor|tunity of making a solitary excursion round the ad|jacent lawns: taking my fuzee with me, I soon came up to a little clump of shrubs, upon a swell|ing green knoll, where I observed several large snakes entwined together; I stepped up near them, they appeared to be innocent and peaceable, having no inclination to strike at any thing, though I en|deavoured to irritate them, in order to discover their disposition, nor were they anxious to escape from me. This snake is about four feet in length and as thick as a man's wrist; the upper side of a dirty, ash colour; the squamae large, ridged and pointed; the belly or under side of a reddish, dull flesh colour; the tail part not long but slender like most other innocent snakes. They prey on rats, land frogs, young rabbits, birds, &c. I left them, continuing my progress and researches, delighted with the ample prospects around and over the sa|vanna.

STOPPING again at a natural shrubbery, when turning my eyes to some flowering shrubs, I obser|ved near my feet, the surprising glass snake (anguis fragilis;) they seem as innocent and harmless as worms. They are, when full grown, two feet and

an half in length, and three fourths of an inch in thickness; the abdomen or body part is remarka|bly short, and they seem to be all tail, which, though long, gradually attenuates to its extremity, yet not small and slender as in switch snakes; the colour and texture of the whole animal is so exactly like bluish green glass, which, together with its fragi|lity, almost persuades a stranger that they are in reality of that brittle substance: but it is only the tail part that breaks off, which it does like glass, by a very gentle stroke from a slender switch. Tho' they are quick and nimble in twisting about, yet they cannot run fast from one, but quickly secrete them|selves at the bottom of the grass or under leaves. It is a vulgar fable, that they are able to repair themselves after being broke into several pieces; which pieces, common report says, by a power or faculty in the animal, voluntarily approach each other, join and heal again. The sun now low, shoots the pointed shadows of the projecting pro|montories far on the skirts of the lucid green plain, flocks of turkeys calling upon their strolling associ|ates, circumspectly march onward to the groves and high forests, their nocturnal retreats. Dewy eve now arrived; I turned about and regained our en|campment in good time.

THE morning cool and pleasant, and the skies screne, we decamped, pursuing our progress round the Alachua savanna. Three of our companions separating from us, went a-head and we soon lost sight of them: they again parting on different ex|cursions, in quest of game and in search of their hor|ses; some enter the surrounding groves and forests, others strike off into the green plains. My compa|nion, the old trader and myself kept together, he

being the most intelligent and willing to oblige me; we coasted the green verge of the plain, under the surrounding hills, occasionally penetrating and cros|sing the projecting promontories, as the pathway or conveniency dictated, to avoid the waters and mud which still continued deep and boggy near the steep hills, in springy places; so that when we came to such places, we found it convenient to ascend and coast round the sides of the hills, or strike out a little into the savanna, to a moderately swelling ridge, where the ground being dry, and a delight|ful green turf, was pleasant travelling; but then we were under the necessity to ford creeks or rivu|lets, which are the conduits or drains of the shal|low, boggy ponds or morasses just under the hills; this range or chain of morasses continues round the South and South-West border of the savanna, and appeared to me to be fed or occasioned by the great w••t bay-gale or savanna Pine lands, which lay immediately back of the high, hilly forests on the great savanna, part of which we crossed in coming from Cuscowilla, which bottom is a flat, level, hard sand, lying between the sand ridge of Cuscowilla and these eminences of the great savanna, and is a vast receptacle or reservoir of the rain waters, which being defended from the active and powerful exha|lations of the meridian sun, by the shadow of the Pine trees, low shrubs and grass, gradually filter|ing through the sand, drain through these hills and present themselves in innumerable little meander|ing rills, at the bases of the shady heights fronting the savanna.

OUR progress this day was extremely pleasant, over the green turf, having in view numerous herbs of cattle and deer, and squadrons of h••••se, peaceably browzing on the tender, sweet grass, or strolling

through the cool fragrant groves on the surrounding heights.

BESIDES the continued Orange groves, these heights abound with Palms, Magnolias, Red Bays, Liquid|amber, and Fagus sylvatica of incredible magni|tude, their trunks imitating the shafts of vast co|lumns: we observed Cassine, Prunus, Vitis labrus|ca, Rhamnus volubilis, and delightful groves of AEsculus pavia, Prunus Caroliniana, a most beauti|ful evergreen, decorated with its racemes of sweet, white blossoms.

PASSING through a great extent of ancient Indian fields, now grown over with forests of stately trees, Orange groves and luxuriant herbage. The old trader, my associate, informed me it was the anci|ent Alachua, the capital of that famous and power|ful tribe, who peopled the hills surrounding the savanna, when, in days of old, they could assemble by thousands at ball play and other juvenile diversions and athletic exercises, over those, then, happy fields and green plains; and there is no reason to doubt of his account being true, as almost every step we take over those fertile heights, discovers remains and traces of ancient human habitations and cultivati|on. It is the most elevated eminence upon the sa|vanna, and here the hills descend gradually to the savanna, by a range of gentle, grassy banks. Ar|riving at a swelling green knoll, at some distance in the plains, near the banks of a pond, opposite the old Alachua town, the place appointed for our meeting again together; it being near night our associates soon after joined us, where we lodged. Early next morning we continued our tour; one di|vision of our company directing their course across the plains to the North coast: my old companion,

with myself in company, continued our former rout, coasting the savanna W. and N. W. and by agree|ment we were all to meet again at night, at the E. end of the savanna.

WE continued some miles crossing over, from pro|montory to promontory, the most enchanting green coves and vistas, scolloping and indenting the high coasts of the vast plain. Observing a company of wolves (lupus niger) under a few trees, about a quarter of a mile from shore, we rode up towards them, they observing our approach, sitting on their hinder parts until we came nearly within shot of them, when they trotted off towards the forests, but stopped again and looked at us, at about two hundred yards distance; we then whooped, and made a feint to pursue them, when they seperated from each other, some stretching off into the plains and others seeking covert in the groves on shore; when we got to the trees we observed they had been feeding on the carcase of a horse. The wolves of Florida are larger than a dog, and are perfectly black, except the females, which have a white spot on the breast, but they are not so large as the wolves of Canada and Pennsylvania, which are of a yellowish brown colour. There were a number of vultures on the trees over the carcase, who, as soon as the wolves ran off, immediately settled down upon it; they were however held in restraint and subordination by the bald eagle (falco leucocepha|lus.)

ON our rout near a long projected point of ••••e coast, we observed a large flock of turkeys; at our approach they hastened to the groves; we soon gained the promontory; on the ascending hills were vestiges of 〈◊〉〈◊〉 ancient Indian town, now over sha|dowed

with groves of the Orange, loaded with both green and ripe fruit, and embellished with their fragrant bloom, gratifying the taste, the sight and the smell at the same instant. Leaving this delight|ful retreat, we soon came to the verge of the groves, when presented to view, a vast verdant bay of the savanna; we discovered a herd of deer feeding at a small distance, upon the sight of us they ran off, taking shelter in the groves on the opposite point or cape of this spacious meadow. My companions being old expert hunters, quickly concerted a plan for their destruction; one of our company immedi|ately struck off, obliquely crossing the meadow for the opposite groves, in order to intercept them, if they should continue their course up the forest, to the main; and we crossed strait over to the point, if possible to keep them in sight, and watch their motions, knowing that they would make a stand thereabouts, before they would attempt their last escape: 〈…〉〈…〉 near the point, we slackened our gate, and cautiously entered the groves, when we beheld them thoughtless and secure, flouncing in a sparkling pond, in a green meadow or cove beyond the point; some were lying down on their sides in the cool waters, whilst others were pranc|ing like young kids; the young bucks in playsome sport, with their sharp horns hooking and spurring the others, urging them to splash the water.

I ENDEAVOURED to plead for their lives, but my old friend though he was a sensible, rational and good sort of man, would not yield to my philoso|phy; he requested me to mind our horses, while he made his approaches, cautiously gaining ground on them, from tree to tree, when they all suddenly sprang up and herded together; a princely buck who headed the party, whistled and bounded off,

his retinue followed, but unfortunately for their chief, he led them with prodigious speed out to|wards the savanna very near us, and when passing by, the lucky old hunter fired and laid him pros|trate upon the green turf, but a few yards from us; his affrighted followers at the instant, sprang off in every direction, streaming away like meteors o•• phantoms, and we quickly lost sight of them: he opened his body, took out the entrails and placed the carcase in the fork of a tree, casting his frock or hunting shirt over to protect it from the vultures and crows, who follow the hunter as regularly as his own shade.

OUR companions soon arrived, we set forward again, enjoying the like scenes we had already past; observed parties of Siminole horses coursing over the plains, and frequently saw deer, turkeys and wolves, but they knew their safety here, keeping far enough out of our reach. The wary, sharp sighted crane, circumspectly observing our progress. We saw a female of them sitting on her nest, and the male, her mate, watchfully traversing back|wards and forwards, at a small distance; they suf|fered us to approach near them before they arose, when they spread their wings, running and tipping the ground with their feet some time, and then mounted aloft, soaring round and round over the nest; they set upon only two eggs at a time, which are very large, long and pointed at one end, of a pale ash colour, powdered or speckled with brown. The manner of forming their nests and setting is very singular; choosing a tussock and there forming a rude heap of dry grass, or such like materials, near as high as their body is from the ground, when standing upon their feet; on the summit of this

they form the nest of fine soft dry grass, when she covers her eggs to hatch them, she stands over them, bearing her body and wings over the eggs.

WE again came up to a long projecting point of the high forests, beyond which opened to view an extensive grassy cove of the savanna, several miles in circuit; we crossed strait over from this promonto|ry to the opposite coast, and on the way were con|strained to wade a mile or more through the water, though at a little distance from us it appeared as a delightful meadow, the grass growing through the water, the middle of which, however, when we came up, proved to be a large space of clear water almost deep enough to swim our horses; it being a large branch of the main creek which drains the sa|vanna; after getting through this morass, we arri|ved on a delightful, level, green meadow as usual, which continued about a mile, when we reached the firm land; and then gradually ascending, we a|lighted on a hard sandy beach, which exhibited evi|dent signs of being washed by the waves of the savan|na, when in the winter season it is all under water, and then presents the appearance of a large lake. The coast here is much lower than the opposite side, which we had left behind us, and rises from the meadows with a gradual sloping ascent, covered scatteringly with low spreading Live Oaks, short Palms, Zanthoxilon, Laurus Borbonia, Cassine, Si|deroxilon, Quercus nigra, Q. sinuata and others; all leaning from the bleak winds that oppress them. About one hundred yards back of this beach, the sand hills gradually rise, and the open Pine for|ests appear; we coasted a mile or two along the beach, then doubled a promontory of high forests, and soon after came to a swift running brook of

clear water, rolling over gravel and white sand, which being brought along 〈◊〉〈◊〉 it, in its descent down the steeper sandy beach, formed and easy swell|ing bank or bar; the waters spread greatly at this place, exhibiting a shallow glittering sheet of clear water, but just sufficient continually to cover the clear gravelly bed, and seemed to be sunk a little below the common surface of the beach; this stream however is soon separated into a number of rivulets, by small sandy and gravelly ridges, and the waters are finally stole away from the sight, by a charming green meadow, which, again secretly uniting under the tall grass, forms a little creek, meandering through the turfy plain, marking its course by reeds and rushes, which spring up from its banks, joining the main creek that runs through the savanna, and at length delivers the water into the ••••eat Sink. Proceeding about a mile farther we came up to, and crossed another brook larger than the former, which exhibited the like delightful appearance. We next passed over a level green lawn, a cove of the savanna, and arrived at a hilly grove. We alighted in a pleasant vista, turning our horses to graze while we amused ourselves with exploring the borders of the Great Sink. In this place a group of rocky hills almost surround a large bason, which is the general receptacle of the water, draining from every part of the vast savanna, by lateral conduits, winding about, and one after another joining the main creek or general conductor, which at length delivers them into this sink; where they descend by slow degrees, through rocky caverns, into the bow|els of the earth, whence they are carried by secret subterraneous channels into other receptacles and basons.

WE ascended a collection of eminences, cover••|with dark groves, which is one point of the crescent that partly encircles the sink or bason, open only on the side next the savanna, where it is joined to the great channel or general conductor of the wa|ters; from this point over to the opposite point of the crescent (which is a similar high rocky pro|montory) is about one hundred yards, forming a vast semicircular cove or bason, the hills encircling it rising very steep fifty or sixty feet, high, rocky, perpendicular and bare of earth next the waters of the bason. These hills, from the top of the per|pendicular, fluted, excavated, walls of rocks, slant off moderately up to their summits, and are cover|ed with a very fertile, loose, black earth, which nourishes and supports a dark grove of very large trees, varieties of shrubs and herbacious plants. These high forest trees surrounding the bason, by their great height and spread, so effectually shade the waters, that coming suddenly from the open plains, we seem at once shut up in darkness, and the waters appear black, yet are clear; when we ascend the top of the hills, we perceive the ground to be uneven, by round swelling points and corresponding hollows, overspread with gloomy shade, occasioned by the tall and spreading trees, such as Live Oak, Morus rubra, Zanthoxilon, Sapindus, Liquid-amber, Tilia, Laurus Borbonia, Quercus dentata, Juglans cinerea, and others, together with Orange trees of remarkable magnitude and very fruitful. But that which is most singular and to me unaccountable, is the infundibuliform cavities, even on the top of these high hills, some twenty, thirty and forty yards across, at their superficial rims ex|actly circular, as if struck with a compass, sloping gradually inwards to a point at bottom, forming an

inverted cone, or like the upper wide part of a funnel; the perpendicular depth of them from the common surface is various, some descending twen|ty feet deep, others almost to the bed of rocks, which forms the foundation or nucleus of the hills, and indeed of the whole country of East Florida; some of them seem to be nearly filled up with earth, swept in from the common surface, but retain the same uniformity; though sometimes so close toge|ther as to be broken one into another. But as I shall have occasion to speak further of these sinks in the earth hereafter, I turn my observation to other objects in view round about me. In and a|bout the Great Sink, are to be seen incredible num|bers of crocodiles, some of which are of an enor|mous size, and view the passenger with incredible impudence and avidity; and at this time they are so abundant, that, if permitted by them, I could walk over any part of the bason and the river upon their heads, which slowly float and turn about like knotty chuncks or logs of wood, except when they plunge or shoot forward to beat off their associates, pressing too close to each other, or taking up fish, which continually croud in upon them from the ri|ver and creeks, draining from the savanna, espe|cially the 〈…〉〈…〉, mudfish, catfish and the vari|ous species of bream; the gar are rather too hard for their jaws and rough for their throats, especial|ly here where they have a superfluous plenty and variety of those that are every way preferable; be|sides the gar being like themselves, a warlike vora|cious creature, they seem to be in league or con|federacy together, to enslave and devour the nu|merous defenceless tribes.

IT is astonishing and incredible, perhaps, I may say, to relate what unspeakable numbers of fish repair to

this fatal fountain or receptacle, during the latter summer season and autumn, when the powerful sun|beams have evaporated the waters off the savanna, where those who are so fortunate as to effect a retreat into the conductor, and escape the devouring jaws of the fearful alligator and armed gar, descend into the earth, through the wells and cavities or vast per|forations of the rocks, and from thence are con|ducted and carried away, by secret subterranean con|duits and gloomy vaults, to other distant lakes and rivers; and it does not appear improbable, but that in some future day this vast savanna or lake of wa|ters, in the winter season will be discovered to be in a great measure filled with its finny inhabitants, who are strangers or adventurers, from other lakes, ponds and rivers, by subterraneous rivulets and communications to this rocky, dark door or outlet, whence they ascend to its surface, spread over and people the winter lake, where they breed, increase and continue as long as it is under water, or du|ring pleasure, for they are at all seasons to be seen ascending and descending through the rocks; but towards the autumn, when the waters have almost left the plains, they then croud to the sink in such multitudes, as at times to be seen pressing on in great banks into the bason, being urged by pur|suing bands of alligators and gar, and when enter|ing the great bason or sink, are suddenly fallen up|on by another army of the same devouring enemy, lying in wait for them; thousands are driven on shore, where they perish and rot in banks, which was evident at the time I was there, the stench be|ing intollerable, although then early in the summer. There are three great doors or vent holes through the rocks in the sink, two near the centre and the other one near the rim, much higher up than the

other two, which was conspicuous through the clear water. The beds of rocks lay in horizontal thick strata or laminae, one over the other, where the sink-holes or outlets are. These rocks are perfo|rated by perpendicular wells or tubes, four, five and six feet in diameter, exactly circular as the tube of a cannon or walled well; many of these are bro|ken into one another, forming a great ragged ori|fice, appearing flutes, by alternate jambs and semi|circular perpendicular niches or excavations.

HAVING satisfied my curiosity in viewing this ex|traordinary place and very wonderful work of na|ture, we repaired to our resting place, where we found our horses and mounted again. One of the company parting from us for the buck that we had shot and left in the fork of the tree. My friend, the old trader, led the shortest way across the plain, after repassing the wet morass which had almost swam our horses in the morning. At evening we arrived at the place of our destination, where our associates soon after rejoined us with some Indians, who were merry, agreeable guests as long as they staid; they were in full dress and painted, but be|fore dark they mounted their horses, which were of the true Siminole breed, set spurs to them, ut|tering all at once a shrill whoop, and went off for Cuscowilla.

THOUGH the horned cattle and horses bred in these meadows are large, sleek, sprightly and as fat as can be in general, yet they are subject to mor|tal diseases. I observed several of them dreadfully mortified, their thighs and haunches ulcerated, raw and bleeding, which, like a mortification or slow cancer, at length puts an end to their miserable existence. The traders and Indians call this dis|ease

the water-rot or scald, and say it is occasioned by the warm water of the savanna, during the heats of summer and autumn, when these creatures wade deep to feed on the water-grass, which they are immoderately fond of; whereas the cattle which only feed and range in the high forests and Pine sa|vannas are clear of this disorder. A sacrifice to intemperance and luxury.

WE had heavy rains during the night, and though very warm yet no thunder and very little wind. It cleared away in the morning and the day very plea|sant. Sat off for the East end of the savanna, col|lecting by the way and driving before us, parties of horse, the property of the traders; and next morn|ing sat off on our return to the lower store on St. John's coasting the savanna yet a few miles, in expectation of finding the remainder of their hor|ses, though disappointed.

WE at last bid adieu 〈◊〉〈◊〉 the magnificent plains of Alachua, entered the Pine forests, and soon fell in|to the old Spanish highway, from St. Augustine a|cross the isthmus of Florida, to St. Mark's in the bay of Apalache. Its course and distance from E. to W. is, from St. Augustine to Fort Picolata on the river St. Juan, twenty-seven miles; thence a|cross the river to the Poopoa Fort, three miles; thence to the Alachua Savanna, forty-five miles; thence to Talahasochte on the river Little St. Juan, seventy-five miles; thence down this river to St. Mark's, thirty miles; the whole distance from St. Augustine to St. Mark's, one hundred and eighty miles. But that road having been unfrequent|ed for many years past, since the Creeks subdued the remnant tribes of the ancient Floridans, and drove the Spaniards from their settlements in East

Florida into St. Augustine, which effectually cut off their communication between that garrison and St. Mark's; this ancient highway is grown up in many place with trees and shrubs, but yet has left so deep a track on the surface of the earth, that it may be traced for ages yet to come.

LEAVING the highway on our left hand, we ascend a sandy ridge, thinly planted by nature with stately Pines and Oaks, of the latter genera, particularly Q. sinuata, S. flamule, Q. nigra, Q. rubra. Passed by an Indian village situated on this high, airy sand ridge, consisting of four or five habitations; none of the people were at home, they were out at their hunding camps; we observed plenty of cern in their cribs. Following a hunting path eight or nine miles, through a vast Pine forest and grassy savanna, well timbered, the ground covered with a charming car|pet of various flowering plants, came to a large creek of excellent water, and here we found the encampment of the Indians, the inhabitants of the little town we had passed; we saw their women and children, the men being out hunting. The women presented themselves to our view as we came up, at the door of their tents, veiled in their mantle, mo|destly shewing their faces when we saluted them. Towards the evening we fell into the old trading path, and before night came to camp at the Half|way Pond. Next morning, after collecting toge|ther the horses, some of which had strolled away at a great distance, we pursued our journey and in the evening arrived at the trading house on St. Ju|an's, from a successful and pleasant tour.

ON my return to the store on St. Juan's the tra|ding schooner was there, but as she was not to re|turn

turn to Georgia until the autumn, I found I had time to pursue my travels in Florida, and might at leisure plan my excursions to collect seeds and roots in boxes, &c.

AT this time the talks (or messages between the Indians and white people) were perfectly peaceable and friendly, both with the Lower Creeks and the Nation or Upper Creeks; parties of Indians were coming in every day with their hunts: indeed the Muscogulges or Upper Creeks very seldom disturb us. Bad talks from the Nation is always a very se|rious affair, and to the utmost degree alarming to the white inhabitants.

THE Muscogulges are under a more strict govern|ment or regular civilization than the Indians in ge|neral. They lie near their potent and declared e|nemy, the Chactaws; their country having a vast frontier, naturally accessable and open to the incursi|ons of their enemies on all sides, they find themselves under the necessity of associating in large, populous towns, and these towns as near together as convenient that they may be enabled to succour and defend one another in case of sudden invasion; this consequent|ly occasions dear and bear to be scarce and difficult to procure, which obliges them to be vigilent and industrious; this naturally begets care and serious attention, which we may suppose in some degree forms their natural disposition and manners, and gives them that air of dignified gravity, so striking|ly characteristic in their aged people, and that stea|diness, just and chearful reverence in the middle aged and youth, which sits so easy upon them, and appears so natural: for however strange it may ap|pear to us, the same moral duties which with us form the amiable, virtuous character, and is so diffi|cult

to maintain, there, without compulsion or visi|ble restraint, operates like instinct, with a surprising harmony and natural ease, insomuch that it seems impossible for them to act out of the common high|road to virtue.

WE will now take a view of the Lower Creeks or Siminoles, and the natural disposition which charac|terises this people, when, from the striking contrast, the philosopher may approve or disapprove, as he may think proper, from the judgment and opinion given by different men.

THE Siminoles, but a weak people, with respect to numbers, all of them I suppose would not be suf|ficient to people one of the towns in the Muscogulge (for instance, the Uches on the main branch of the Apalachucla river, which alone contains near two thousand inhabitants.) Yet this handful of people possesses a vast territory, all East Florida and the greastest part of West Florida, which being natu|rally cut and divided into thousands of islets, knolls and eminences, by the innumerable rivers, lakes, swamps, vast savannas and ponds, form so many se|cure retreats and temporary dwelling places, that effectually guard them from any sudden invasions or attacks from their enemies; and being such a swampy, hommocky country, furnishes such a plen|ty and variety of supplies for the nourishment of varieties of animals, that I can venture to assert, that no part of the globe so abounds with wild game or creatures fit for the food of man.

THUS they enjoy a superabundance of the neces|saries and conveniencies of life, with the security of person and property, the two great concerns of mankind. The hides of deer, bears, tigers and

wolves, together with honey, wax and other pro|ductions on the country, purchase their cloathing, equipage and domestic utensils from the whites. They seem to be free from want or desires. No cruel enemy to dread; nothing to give them dis|quietude, but the gradual encroachments of the white people. Thus contented and undisturbed, they appear as blithe and free as the birds of the air, and like them as volatile and active, tuneful and vociferous. The visage, action and deport|ment of a Siminole, being the most striking picture of happiness in this life; joy, contentment, love and friendship, without guile or affectation, seem inherent in them, or predominant in their vital prin|ciple, for it leaves them but with the last breath of life. It even seems imposing a constraint upon their ancient chiefs and senators, to maintain a necessa|ry decorum and solemnity, in their public councils; not even the debility and decrepitude of extreme old age, is sufficient to erase from their visages, this youthful, joyous simplicity; but like the grey eye of a serene and calm day, a gladdening, cheer|ing blush remains on the Western horizon after the sun is set.

I DOUBT not but some of my countrymen who may read these accounts of the Indians, which I have endeavoured to relate according to truth, at least as they appeared to me, will charge me with par|tiality or prejudice in their favour.

I WILL, however, now endeavour to exhibit their vices, immoralities and imperfections, from my own observations and knowledge, as well as ac|counts from the white traders, who reside amongst them.

THE Indians make war against, kill and 〈◊〉〈◊〉 their own species, and their motives spring from the same erroneous source as it does in all other nations of mankind; that is, the ambition of ex|hibiting to their fellows, a superior character of personal and national valour, and thereby immor|talize themselves, by transmitting their names with honour and lustre to posterity; or in revenge of their enemy, for public or personal insults; or last|ly, to extend the borders and boundaries of their territories: but I cannot find upon the strictest en|quiry, that their bloody contests, at this day are marked with deeper stains of inhumanity or savage cruelty, than what may be observed amongst the most civilized nations: they do indeed scalp their slain enemy, but they do not kill the females or children of either sex: the most ancient traders, both in the Lower and Upper Creeks, assured me they never saw an instance of either burning or tormenting their male captives; though it is said they used to do it formerly. I saw in every town in the Nation and Siminoles that I visited, more or less male cap|tives, some extremely aged, who were free and in as good circumstances as their masters; and all slaves have their freedom when they may, which is per|mitted and encouraged; when they and their off|spring, are every way upon an equality with their conquerors; they are given to adultery and forni|cation, but I suppose in no greater excess than o|ther nations of men. They punish the delinquents, male and female, equally alike, by taking off their ears. This is the punishment for adultery. Infa|my and disgrace is supposed to be a sufficient pu|nishment for fornication, in either sex.

THEY are fond of games and gambling, and a|muse

themselves like children, in relating extrava|gant stories, to cause surprise and mirth.

THEY wage eternal war against deer and bear, to procure food and clothing, and other necessaries and conveniences; which is indeed carried to an unreasonable and perhaps criminal excess, since the white people have dazzled their senses with foreign superfluities.

CHAP. VII.

A JOURNEY FROM SPALDING'S LOWER TRADING HOUSE TO TALAHASOCHTE OR WHITE KING'S TOWN, ON THE RIVER LITTLE ST. JUAN, THIRTY MILES A|BOVE FORT ST. MARKS IN THE BAY OF APALATCHE.

ON my return to the trading house, from my journey to the great savanna, I found the trading company for Little St. Juan's, were preparing for that post.

MY mind yet elate with the various scenes of rural nature, which as a lively animated picture, had been presented to my view; the deeply engra|ven impression, a pleasing flattering contemplation, gave strength and agility to my steps, anxiously to press forward to the delightful fields and groves of Apalatche.

THE trading company for Talahasochte being now in readiness to proceed for that quarter, under the direction of our chief trader, in the cool of the morning we sat off, each of us having a good horse to ride, besides having in our caravan several pack horses laden with provisions, camp equipage and other necessaries; a young man from St. Augustine, in the service of the governor of East Florida ac|companied us, commissioned to purchase of the In|dians and traders, some Siminole horses. They are the most beautiful and sprightly species of that noble creature, perhaps any where to be seen; but are of a small breed, and as delicately formed as the American roe buck. A horse in the Creek or Mus|cogulge

tongue is echoclucco, that is the great deer, (echo is a deer and clucco is big:) the Simi|nole horses are said to descend originally from the Andalusian breed, brought here by the Spaniards when they first established the colony of East Flori|da. From the forehead to their nose is a little arched or aquiline, and so are the fine Chactaw horses among the Upper Creeks, which are said to have been brought thither from New-Mexico a|cross Mississippi, by those nations of Indians who emigrated from the West, beyond the river. These horses are every way like the Siminole breed, only being larger, and perhaps not so lively and Capri|cious. It is a matter of conjecture and enquiry, whether or not the different soil and situation of the country, may have contributed in some measure, in forming and establishing the difference in size and other qualities betwixt them. I have observed the horses and other animals in the high hilly coun|try of Carolina, Georgia, Virginia and all along our shores, are of a much larger and stronger make, than those which are bred in the flat country next the sea coast; a buck-skin of the Upper Creeks and Cherokees will weigh twice as heavy as those of the Siminoles or Lower Creeks, and those bred in the low flat country of Carolina.

OUR first days journey was along the Alachua roads, twenty-five miles to the Half-way Pond, where we encamped, the musquitoes were excessively trou|blesome the whole night.

DECAMPED early next morning, still pursuing the road to Alachua, until within a few miles of Cus|cowilla, when the road dividing, one for the town and the other for the great savanna; here our com|pany seperated, one party chose to pass through the

town, having some concerns there; I kept with the party that went through the savanna, it being the best road, leading over a part of the savanna, when entering the groves on its borders, we travelled several miles over these fertile eminences and de|lightful, shady, fragrant forests, then again enter|ed upon the savanna, and crossed a charming exten|sive green cove or bay of it, covered with a vivid green grassy turf, when we again ascended the wood|land hills, through fruitful Orange groves and un|der shadowy Palms and Magnolias. Now the Pine forests opened to view, we left the magnificent savanna and its delightful groves, passing through a level, open, airy Pine forest, the stately trees scatteringly planted by nature, arising strait and erect from the green carpet, embellished with va|rious grasses and flowering plants, and gradually ascending the sand hills soon came into the trading path to Talahasochte; which is generally, except|ing a few deviations, the old Spanish highway to St. Mark's. At about five miles distance beyond the great savanna, we came to camp late in the evening, under a little grove of Live Oaks just by a group of shelly rocks, on the banks of a beautiful little lake, partly environed by meadows. The rocks as usual in these regions partly encircled a spa|cious sink or grotto, which communicates with the waters of the lake; the waters of the grotto are perfectly transparent, cool and pleasant, and well replenished with fish. Soon after our arrival here, our companions who passed through Cuscowilla join|ed us. A brisk cool wind during the night kept the persecuting musquitoes at a distance.

THE morning pleasant, we decamped early, pro|ceeding on, rising gently for several miles, over

sandy, gravelly ridges, we find ourselves in an ele|vated, high, open, airy region, somewhat rocky, on the backs of the ridges, and presents to view on every side, the most dreary, solitary, desart waste I had ever beheld; groups of bare rocks emerging out of the naked gravel and drifts of white sand; the grass thinly scattered and but few trees; the Pines, Oaks, Olives and Sideroxilons, poor, misha|pen and tattered; scarce an animal to be seen or noise heard, save the symphony of the Western breeze, through the bristly Pine leaves, or solitary sand crickets schreech, or at best the more social converse of the frogs, in solemn chorus with the swift breezes, brought from distant fenns and fo|rests. Next we joyfully enter the borders of the level Pine forest and savannas, which continued for many miles, never out of sight of little lakes or ponds, environed with illumined meadows, the clear wa|ters sparkling through the tall Pines.

HAVING a good spirited horse under me, I gene|rally kept a-head of my companions, which I often chose to do, as circumstances offered or invited, for the sake of retirement and observation.

THE high road being here open and spacious, at a good distance before me, I observed a large hawk on the ground, in the middle of the road; he seem|ed to be in distress, endeavouring to rise; when, coming up near him, I found him closely bound up by a very long coach-whip snake, that had wreath|ed himself several times round the hawk's body, who had but one of his wings at liberty; behold|ing their struggles a while, I alighted off my horse with an intention of parting them; when, on com|ing up, they mutually agreed to seperate them|selves, each one seaking his own safety, probably

considering me as their common enemy. The bird rose aloft and fled away as soon as he recovered his liberty, and the snake as eagerly made off, I soon overtook him but could not perceive that he was wounded.

I SUPPOSE the hawk had been the aggressor, and fell upon the snake with an intention of making a prey of him, and that the snake dexterously and luckily threw himself in coils round his body, and gir••ed him so close as to save himself from destruc|tion.

THE coach-whip snake is a beautiful creature; when full grown they are six and seven feet in length, and the largest part of their body not so thick as a cane or common walking stick; their head not larger than the end of a man's finger; their neck is very slender, and from the abdomen tapers away in the manner of a small switch or coach-whip; the top of the head and neck, for three or four inches, is as black and shining as a raven; the throat and belly as white as snow; and the up|per side of their body of a chocolate colour, ex|cepting the tail part, almost from the abdomen to the extremity, which is black: it may be proper to observe, however, that they vary in respect to the colour of the body; some I have seen almost white or cream colour, others of a pale chocolate or clay colour, but in all the head and neck is black, and the tail dark brown or black. They are extreme|ly swift, seeming almost to fly over the surface of the ground, and that which is very singular, they can run swiftly on only their tail part, carrying their head and body upright: one very fine one ac|companied me along the road side, at a little dis|tance, raising himself erect, now and then looking

me in the face, although I proceeded on a good round trot on purpose to observe how fast they could proceed in that position. His object seemed mere curiosity or observation; with respect to venom they are as innocent as a worm, and seem to be fa|miliar with man. They seem a particular inhabi|tant of East Florida, though I have seen some of them in the maritime parts of Carolina and Georgia, but in these regions they are neither so large or beau|tiful.

WE rise again, passing over sand ridges of gentle elevation, savannas and open Pine forests. Masses or groups of rocks present to view on every side, as before mentioned, and with difficulty we escaped the circular infundibuliform cavities or sinks in the surface of the earth; generally a group of rocks, shaded by Palms, Live Oaks and Magnolias, is situated on their limb: some are partly filled up with earth, whilst others and the greater number of them are partly filled with transparent cool water, which discover the well or perforation through the rocks in the cen|ter. This day being remarkably sultry, we came to camp early, having chosen our situation under some stately Pines, near the verge of a spacious sa|vanna.

AFTER some refeshment, our hunters went out into the forest, and returned towards evening; a|mongst other game, they brought with them a sa|vanna crane * 1.19 which they shot in the adjoining mea|dows. This stately bird is above six feet in length from the toes to the extremity of the beak when extended, and the wings expand eight or nine feet; they are above five feet high when standing erect; the tail is remarkably short, but the flag or pendant

feathers which fall down off the rump on each side, are very long and sharp pointed, of a delicate tex|ture, and silky softness; the beak is very long, strait and sharp pointed; the crown of the head bare of feathers, of a reddish rose colour, thinly barbed with short, stiff, black hair; the legs and thighs are very long, and bare of feathers a great space above the knees; the plumage of this bird is generally of a pale ash colour, with shades or clouds of pale brown and sky blue, the brown prevails on the shoulders and back; the barrels of the prime quill|feathers are long and of a large diameter, leaving a large cavity when extracted from the wing: all the bones of this bird have a thin shell, and conse|quently a large cavity or medullary receptacle. When these birds move their wings in flight, their strokes are slow, moderate and regular, and even when at a considerable distance or high above us, we plainly hear the quill-feathers, their shafts and webbs upon one another, creek as the joints or working of a vessel in a tempestuous sea.

WE had this fowl dressed for supper and it made excellent sorp; nevertheless as long as I can get any other necessary food I shall prefer his seraphic music in the etherial skies, and my eyes and under|standing gratified in observing their economy and social communities, in the expansive green savan|nas of Florida.

NEXT morning we arose early, and proceeding, gradually descended again, and continued many miles along a flat, level country, over delightful green savannas, decorated with hommocks or islets of dark groves, consisting of Magnolia grandiflora, Morus tilia, Zanthoxilon, Laurus Borbonia, Side|roxilon, Quercus sempervirens, Halesia diptera, Cal|licarpa,

Corypha palma, &c. there are always groups of whitish testaceous rocks and sinks where these hommocks are. We next crossed a wet savanna, which is the beginning of a region still lower than we had traversed; here we crossed a rapid rivulet of exceeding cool, pleasant water, where we halt|ed to refresh ourselves. But it must be remarked here, that this rivulet, though lively and rapid at this time, is not a permanent stream, but was formed by a heavy rain that fell the day before, as was appa|rent from its bed, besides it is at best but a jet or mere phantom of a brook, as the land around is rocky and hollow, abounding with wells and cavities. Soon after leaving the brook we passed off to the left hand, along the verge of an extensive savanna, and meadows many miles in circumference, edged on one border with detached groves and pompous Palms, and embellished with a beautiful sparkling lake; its verges decorated with tall, waving grass and floriferous plants; the pellucid waters gently roll|ing on to a dark shaded grotto, just under a semi|circular, swelling, turfy ascent or bank, skirted by groves of Magnolias, Oaks, Laurels and Palms. In these expansive and delightful meadows, were feed|ing and roving troops of the fleet Siminole horse. We halted a while at this grotto, and after refresh|ing ourselves we mounted horse and proceeded a|cross a charming lawn, part of the savanna, enter|ing on it through a dark grove. In this extensive lawn were several troops of horse, and our compa|ny had the satisfaction of observing several belong|ing to themselves. One occurrance, remarkable here, was a troop of horse under the controul and care of a single black dog, which seemed to differ in no respect from the wolf of Florida, except his being able to bark as the common dog. He was very careful and industrious in keeping them toge|ther,

and if any one strolled from the rest at too great a distance, the dog would spring up, head the horse and bring him back to the company. The proprietor of these horses is an Indian in Talaha|sochte, about ten miles distance from this place, who, out of humour and experiment, trained his dog up from a puppy to this business; he follows his master's horses only, keeping them in a separate company where they range, and when he is hungry or wants to see his master, in the evening he re|turns to town, but never stays at home a night.

THE region we had journied through, since we decamped this morning, is of a far better soil and quality than we had yet seen since ••e left Alachua; generally a dark greyish, and sometimes brown and black loam, on a foundation of whitish marl, chalk and testaceous limestone rocks, and ridges of a loose, coarse, reddish sand, producing stately Pines in the plains, and Live Oak, Mulberry, Magnolia, Palm, Zanthoxilon, &c. in the hommocks, and also in great plenty the pirennial Indigo; it grows here five, six and seven feet high, and as thick together as if it had been planted and cultivated. The higher ridg|es of hills afford great quantities of a species of iron ore, of that kind found in New-Jersey and Pennsylvania, and there called bog ore; it ap|pears on the surface of the ground in large detach|ed masses and smaller fragments; it is ponderous and seemed rich of that most useful metal; but one property remarkable in these terrigenous stones is, they appeared to be blistered, somewhat resembling cinders, or as if they had suffered a violent action of fire.

LEAVING the charming savanna and fields of Capo|la, we passed several miles through delightful plains

and meadows, little differing from the environs of Capola, diversified with rocky islets or hommocks of dark woodland.

WE next entered a vast forest of the most state|ly Pine trees that can be imagined, planted by na|ture at a moderate distance, on a level, grassy plain, enamelled with a variety of flowering shrubs, viz. Viola, Ruellia infundibuliformea, Amaryllis atama|sco, Mimosa sensitiva, Mimosa intsia and many o|thers new to me. This sublime forest continued five or six miles, when we came to ••ark groves of Oaks, Magnolias, Red bays, Mulberrys, &c. through which proceeding near a mile, we entered open fields and arrived at the town of Talahasochte, on the banks of Little St. Juan.

THE river Little St. Juan may, with singular propriety, be termed the pellucid river. The wa|ters are the clearest and purest of any river I ever saw, transmitting distinctly the natural form and appearance of the objects moving in the transpa|rent floods, or reposing on the silvery bed, with the finny inhabitants sporting in its gently flowing stream.

THE river at the town is about two hundred yards over, and fifteen or twenty feet in depth. The great swamp and lake Oaquaphenogaw is said to be its source, which is about one hundred miles by land North of this place, which would give the river a course of near two hundred miles from its source to the sea, to follow its meanders; as in general our rivers, that run any considerable distance through the country to the sea, by their windings and roav|ing about to find a passage through the ridges and heights, at least double their distance.

THE Indians and traders say that this river has no

branches or collateral brooks or rivers tributary to it, but that it is fed or augmented by great springs which break out through the banks. From the ac|counts given by them, and my own observations on the country round about, it seems a probable as|sertion, for there was not a creek or rivulet, to be seen, running on the surface of the ground, from the great Alachua Savanna to this river, a distance of above seventy miles; yet, perhaps, no part of the earth affords a greater plenty of pure, salubrious waters. The uparalleled transparency of these wa|ters furnishes an argument for such a conjecture, that amounts at least to a probability, were it not confirmed by occular demonstration; for in all the flat countries of Carolina and Florida, except this isthmus, the waters of the river are, in some degree, turgid, and have a dark hue, owing to the annual firing of the forests and plains, and afterwards the heavy rains washing the light surface of the burnt earth into rivulets, and these rivulets running ra|pidly over the surface of the earth, flow into the rivers, and tinge the waters the colour of lye or beer, almost down to the tide near the sea coast. But here behold how different the appear|ance, and how manifest the cause; for although the surface of the ground produces the same vegetable substances, the soil the same, and suffers in like manner a general conflagration, and the rains, in impetuous showers, as liberally descend upon the parched surface of the ground; but the earth be|ing so hollow and porous, these superabundant wa|ters cannot constitute a rivulet or brook, to conti|nue any distance on its surface, before they are arrested in their course and swallowed up, thence descending, are filtered through the sands and o|ther

strata of earth, to the horizontal beds of po|rous rocks, which being composed of thin seperable laminae, lying generally in obliquely horizontal directions over each other, admit these waters to pass on by gradual but constant percolation; which collecting and associating, augment and form lit|tle rills, brooks and even subterraneous rivers, which wander in darkness beneath the surface of the earth, by innumerable doublings, windings and secret labyrinths; no doubt in some places forming vast reservoirs and subterranean lakes, inhabited by multitudes of fish and aquatic animals: and pos|sibly, when collected into large rapid brooks, meet|ing irresistible obstructions in their course, they sud|denly break through these perforated fluted rocks, in high, perpendicular jets, nearly to their former level, flooding large districts of land: thus by means of those subterranean courses, the waters are puri|fied and finally carried to the banks of great rivers, where they emerge and present themselves to open day-light, with their troops of finny inhabitants, in those surprising vast fountains near the banks of this river; and likewise on and near the shores of Great St. Juan, on the East coast of the isthmus, some of which I have already given an account of.

ON our arrival at Talahasochte, in the evening we repaired to the trading house formerly belong|ing to our chief, where were a family of Indians, who immediately and complaisantly moved out to accommodate us. The White King with most of the male inhabitants were out hunting or tending their Corn plantations.

THE town is delightfully situated on the elevated East banks of the river, the ground level to near the river, when it descends suddenly to the water;

I suppose the perpendicular elevation of the ground may be twenty or thirty seet. There are near thir|ty habitations constructed after the mode of Cusco|willa; but here is a more spacious and neat council|house.

THESE Indians have large handsome canoes, which they form out of the trunks of Cypress trees (Cu|pressus disticha) some or them commodious enough to accomodate twenty or thirty warriors. In these large canoes they descend the river on trading and hunting expeditions on the sea coast, neighbouring islands and keys, quite to the point of Florida, and sometimes cross the gulph, extending their naviga|tions to the Bahama islands and even to Cuba: a crew of these adventurers had just arrived, having returned from Cuba but a few days before our ar|rival, with a cargo of spirituous liquors, Coffee, Sugar and Tobacco. One of them politely present|ed me with a choice piece of Tobacco, which he told me he had received from the governor of Cuba.

THEY deal in the way of barter, carrying with them deer skins, furs, dry fish, bees-wax, honey, bear's oil and some other articles. They say the Spaniards receive them very friendly, and treat them with the best spirituous liquors.

THE Spaniards of Cuba likewise trade here or at St. Marks, and other sea ports on the West coast of the isthmus in small sloops; particularly at the bay of Calos, where are excellent fishing banks and grounds; not far from which is a considerable town of the Siminoles, where they take great quantities of fish, which they 〈◊〉〈◊〉 and cure on shore, and barter with the Indians and traders for skins, furs, &c. and return with their cargoes to Cuba.

THE trader of the town of Talahasochte inform|ed me, that he had, when trading in that town, large supplies of goods, from these Spanish trading vessels, suitable for that trade; and some very essential articles, on more advantageous terms than he could purchase at Indian stores either in Georgia or St. Augustine.

TOWARDS the evening after the sultry heats were past, a young man of our company, having previ|ously procured the loan of a canoe from an Indian, proposed to me a fishing excursion for trout with the bob. We sat off down the river, and before we had passed two miles caught enough for our houshold: he was an excellent hand at this kind of diversion; some of the fish were so large and strong in their element, as to shake his arms stoutly and dragged us with the canoe over the floods before we got them in. It is in the eddy coves, under the points and turnings of the river, where the sur|face of the waters for some acres is covered with the leaves of the Nymphea, Pistia and other am|phibious herbs and grass, where the haunts and re|treats of this famous fish are, as well as others of various tribes.

OBSERVING a fishing canoe of Indians turning a point below and coming towards us, who hailing us, we waited their coming up; they were cheer|ful merry fellows, and insisted on our accepting of part of their fish, they having a greater quanti|ty and variety, especially of the bream my favour|ite fish; we exchanged some of our trout with them.

OUR chief being engaged with the chiefs of the town in commercial concerns, and others of our company, out in the forests with the Indians, hunt|ing

up horses belonging to the trading company; the young interpreter, my companion, who was o|bliging to me and whom our chief previously re|commended to me as an associate; proposed to me another little voyage down the river; this was a|greeable to me, being desirous of increasing my observations during our continuance at Talahas|ochte; as when the White King should return to town (which was expected every hour) we in|tended after audience and treaty to leave them and encamp in the forests, about fifteen miles distance and nearer the range of their horses.

HAVING supplied ourselves with amunition and provision, we set off in the cool of the morning, and descended pleasantly, riding on the chrystal flood, which flows down with an easy, gentle, yet active current, rolling over its silvery bed; how abundantly are the waters replenished with inhabi|tants! the stream almost as transparent as the air we breathe; there is nothing done in secret except on its green flowery verges, where nature at the command of the Supreme Creator, hath spread a mantle, as a covering and retreat at suitable and convenient times, but by no means a secure refuge from the voracious enemy and pursuer.

BEHOLD the watery nations, in numerous bands ro|ving to fro, amidst each other, here they seem all at peace; through incredible to relate, but a few yards off, near the verge of the green mantled shore there is eternal war, or rather slaughter! Near the banks the waters become turgid, from substances gradual|ly diverging from each side of the swift channel, and collections of opaque particles whirled to shore by the eddies, which afford a kind of nursery for

young fry, and its slimy bed a prolific nidus for generating and rearing of infinite tribes and swarms of amphibious insects, which are the food of young fish, who in their turn become a prey to the older. Yet when those different tribes of fish are in the transparent channel, the•••• very nature seems abso|lutely changed, for here is neither desire to destroy or persecute, but all seems peace and friendship; do they agree on a truce, a suspension of hostilities? or by some secret divine influence, is desire taken away? or they are otherwise rendered incapable of pursuing each other to destruction?

ABOUT noon we approached the admirable Manate Spring, three or four miles down the river. This charming nympheum is the product of primitive nature, not to be imitated much less equalled by the united effort of human power and ingenuity! as we approach it by water, the mind of the enquiring traveller is previously entertained and gradually led on to greater discovery; first by a view of the sublime dark grove, lifted up on shore, by a range or curved chain of hills, at a small distance from the lively green verge of the river, on the East banks; as we gently descend floating fields of the Nymphea nilumbo, intersected with vistas of the yellow green Pistia stratiotes, which cover a bay or cove of the river opposite the circular woodland hills.

IT is amazing and almost incredible, what troops and bands of fish, and other watery inhabitants are now in sight, all peaceable, and in what variety of gay colours and forms, continually ascending and descending, roving and figuring amongst one ano|ther, yet every tribe associating seperately; we now ascended the chrystal stream, the current swist,

we entered the grand fountain, the expansive cir|cular bason, the source of which arises from under the bases of the high woodland hills, near half en|circling it; the ebullition is astonishing, and conti|nual, though its greatest force or fury intermits, re|gularly, for the space of thirty seconds of time; the waters appear of a lucid sea green colour, in some measure owing to the reflection of the leaves above; the ebullition is perpendicular upwards, from a vast ragged orifice through a bed of rocks, a great depth below the common surface of the bason, throw|ing up small particles or pieces of white shells, which subside with the waters, at the moment of intermission, gently settling down round about the orifice, form a vast ••unnel; at those moments, when the waters rush upwards, the surface of the bason immediately over the orifice is greatly swo|len or raised a considerable height; and then it is impossible to keep the boat or any other floating vessel over the fountain; but the ebullition quickly subsides, yet, before the surface becomes quite even, the fountain vomits up the waters again, and so on perpetually; the bason is generally circular, about fifty yards over, and the perpetual stream from it into the river is twelve or fifteen yards wide, and ten or twelve feet in depth; the bason and stream continually peopled with prodigious numbers and variety of fish and other animals; as the alligator and the manate * 1.20 or sea cow, in the winter season; part of a skeleton of one, which the Indians had kill|ed last winter, lay upon the banks of the spring; the grinding teeth were about an inch in diameter; the ribs eighteen inches in length, and two inches and an half in thickness, bending with a gentle curve, this bone is esteemed equal to ivory; the flesh of this crea|ture

is counted wholesome and pleasant food▪ the Indians call them by a name which signifies the big beaver. My companion, who was a trader in Ta|lahasochte last winter, saw three of them at one time in this spring: they feed chiefly on aquatic grass and weeds. The ground round about the head of the bason is generally level, for the distance of a few yards, then gradually ascends, forming mo|derately high hills; the soil at top is a light, grey|ish, sandy mould, which continues some feet in depth, lying on a stratum of yellowish clay, then clay and gravel, then sand, and so on, stratum upon stratum, down to the general foundation of testaceous rocks. In other places a deep stratum of whitish, chalky limestone. The vegetable productions which cover and ornament those emminences, are generally Live Oaks, Magnolia grandiflora, in the Creek tongue, Tolo-chlucco, which signifies the Big Bay, Laurus Borbonia or Red Bay, in the Creek tongue, Eto|mico, that is King's tree, Olea Americana and Li|quid▪amber, with other trees, shrubs and herbaci|ous plants common in East Florida.

THE hills and groves environing this admirable fountain, affording amusing subjects of enquiry, oc|casioned my stay here a great part of the day, and towards evening we returned to the town.

NEXT day, early in the morning, we crossed the river, landing on the other shore opposite the town, swimming our horses by the side of the canoe, each of us holding his horse by the bridle whilst an Indian paddled us over. After crossing, we struck off from the river into the forests, sometimes falling into, and keeping for a time, the ancient Spanish high road to Pensacola, now almost obliterated▪ passed four or five miles through old Spanish fields.

THERE are to be seen plain marks or vestiges of the old Spanish plantations and dwellings; as fence posts and wooden pillars of their houses, ditches and even Corn ridges and Batata hills. From the Indi|an accounts, the Spaniards had here a rich, well cultivated and populous settlement, and a strong fortified post, as they likewise had at the savanna and fields of Capola; but either of them far infe|rior to one they had some miles farther South-West towards the Apalachuchla River, now called the A|palachean Old Fields, where yet remain vast works and buildings, as fortifications, temples, some brass cannon, mortars, heavy church bells, &c.

THE same groups of whitish, testaceous rocks and circular sinks, with natural wells, make their ap|pearance in these groves and fields, as observed on the side of the river opposite to Capola, and the same trees, shrubs and herbage without variation. Having passed five or six miles through these ancient fields and groves, the scene suddenly changes, after riding through a high forest of Oak, Magnolia, Frax|inus, Liquid-amber, Fagus sylvatica, &c,

NOW at once opens to view, perhaps, the most extensive Cane-break * 1.21 that is to be seen on the face of the whole earth; right forward, about South|West, there appears no bound but the skies, the level plain, like the ocean, uniting with the sirma|ment; and on the right and left hand, dark shad|ed groves, old fields and high forests, such as we had lately passed through.

THE alternate, bold promontories and misty points advancing and retiring, at length, as it were, insensi|bly

vanishing from sight, like the two points of a cre|scent, softly touching the horizon, represent the most magnificent amphitheatre or circus perhaps in the whole world. The ground descends gently from the groves to the edge of the Cane-break, forming a delightful, green, grassy lawn. The Canes are ten or twelve feet in height, and as thick as an or|dinary walking staff; they grow so close together, there is no penetrating them without previously cut|••••••g a road. We came up to this vast plain where 〈◊〉〈◊〉 ancient Spanish high way crosses it to Pensacola; ••here yet remain plain vestiges of the grand cause|way, which is open like a magnificent avenue, and the Indians have a bad road or pathway on it. The ground or soil of the plain is a perfectly black, rich, soapy earth, like a stiff clay or marle, wet and bog|gy near shore, but, further in, firm and hard enough in the summer season, but wet and in some places under water during the winter.

THIS vast plain together with the forests conti|guous to it, if permitted (by the Siminoles who are sovereigns of these realms) to be in possession and under the culture of industrious planters and me|chanicks, would in a little time exhibit other scenes than it does at present, delightful as it is; for by the arts of agriculture and commerce, almost every desirable thing in life might be produced and made plentiful here, and thereby establish a rich, popu|lous and delightful region; as this soil and climate appears to be of a nature favourable for the pro|duction of almost all the fruits of the earth, as Corn * 1.22, Rice, Indigo, Sugar-cane, Flax, Cotton, Silk, Coch|ineal and all the varieties of esculent vegetables; and I suppose no part of the earth affords such end|less

range and exuberant pasture for cattle, deer, sheep, &c. the waters every where, even in the holes in the earth abound with varieties of excellent fish; and the forests and native meadows with wild game, as bear, deer, turkeys, quail, and in the win|ter season geese, ducks and other fowl; and lying contiguous to one of the most beautiful navigable rivers in the world; and not more than thirty miles from St. Marks on the great bay of Mexico; is most conveniently situated for the West-India trade and the commerce of all the world.

AFTER indulging my imagination in the contem|plation of these grand diversified scenes, we turned to the right hand, riding over the charming green terrace dividing the forests from the plains, and then entering the groves again, continued eight or nine miles up the river, four or five miles distance from its banks; having continually in view on one side or other, expansive green fields, groves and high forests; the meadows glittering with distant lakes and ponds, alive with cattle, deer and turkies, and frequently present to view remains of ancient Spanish plantations. At length, towards evening, we turned about and came within sight of the river, where falling on the Indian trading path, we con|tinued along it to the landing-place opposite the town, when hallooing and discharging our pieces, an Indian with a canoe came presently o••er and conducted us to the town before dark.

ON our arrival at the trading house, our chief was visited by the head men of the town, when instantly the White King's arrival in town was anounced; a messenger had before been sent in to prepare a feast, the king and his retinue having killed several bears. A fire is now kindled in the

area of the public square; the royal standard is dis|played, and the drum beats to give notice to the town of the royal feast.

THE ribs and the choice pieces of the three great fat bears already well barbecued or broiled, are brought to the banqueting house in the square, with hot bread; and honeyed water for drink.

WHEN the feast was over in the square, (where only the chiefs and warriors were admitted, with the white people) the chief priest, attended by slaves, came with baskets and carried off the remain|der of the victuals &c. which was distributed a|mongst the families of the town; the king then withdrew, repairing to the council house in the square, wither the chiefs and warriors, old and young, and such of the whites as chose, repaired also; the king, war-chief and several ancient chiefs and warriors were seated on the royal cabins, the rest of the head men and warriors, old and young, sat on the cabins on the right hand of the king's, and the cabins or seats on the left, and on the same elevation are always assigned for the white people, Indians of other towns, and such of their own people as chose.

OUR chief, with the rest of the white people in town, took their seats according to order; Tobacco and pipes are brought, the calamut is lighted and smoaked, circulating according to the usual forms and ceremony, and afterwards black drink conclud|ed the feast. The king conversed, drank Cassine and associated familiarly with his people and with us.

AFTER the public entertainment was over, the young people began their music and dancing in the

square, whither the young of both sexes repaired, as well as the old and middle aged: this frolick continued all night

THE White King of Talahasochte is a middle aged man, of moderate stature, and though of a lofty and majestic countenance and deportment, yet I am convinced this dignity which really seems grace|ful, is not the effect of vain supercilious pride, for his smiling countenance and his cheerful familarity bespeak magnanimity and benignity.

NEXT a council and treaty was held, they re|quested to have a trading house again established in the town, assuring us that every possible means should constantly be pursued to prevent any distur|bance in future on their part; they informed us that the murderers of M'Gee * 1.23 and his associates, were to be put to death, that two of them were already shot, and they were in pursuit of the other.

OUR chief trader in answer, informed them that the re-establishment of friendship and trade was the chief object of his visit, and that he was happy to find his old friends of Talahasochte in the same good disposition, as they ever were towards him and the white people, that it was his wish to trade with them, and that he was now come to collect his pack|horses to bring them goods. The king and the chiefs having been already acquainted with my bu|siness and pursuits amongst them, received me very kindly; the king in particular complimented me,

saying that I was as one of his own children or peo|ple, and should be protected accordingly, while I re|mained with them, adding, "Our whole country is before you, where you may range about at plea|sure, gather physic plants and flowers, and every o|ther production;" thus the treaty terminated friend|ly and peaceably.

NEXT day early in the morning we left the town and the river, in order to fix our encampment in the forests about twelve miles from the river, our companions with the pack-horses went a head to the place of rendezvous, and our chief conducted me another way to shew me a very curious place, call|ed the Alligator-Hole, which was lately formed by an extraordinary eruption or jet of water; it is one of those vast circular sinks, which we be|hold almost every where about us as we travers|ed these forests, after we left the Alachua savanna: this remarkable one is on the verge of a spacious meadow, the surface of the ground round about uneven by means of gentle rising knolls; some de|tatched groups of rocks and large spreading Live|Oaks shade it on every side; it is about sixty yards over, and the surface of the water six or seven feet below the rim of the funnel or bason; the water is transparent, cool and pleasant to drink, and well stored with fish; a very large alligator at present is lord or chief; many have been killed here, but the throne is never long vacant, the vast neigh|bouring ponds so abound with them.

THE account that this gentleman, who was an eye-witness of the last eruption, gave me of its first appearance; being very wonderful, I proceed to relate what he told me whilst we were in town, which was confirmed by the Indians, and one or more of

our companions, who also saw its progress, as well as my own observations after I came to the ground

THIS trader being near the place (before it had any visible existence in its present appearance) a|bout three years ago (as he was looking for some hor|ses which he expected to find in these parts) when, on a sudden, he was astonished by an inexpressible rushing noise, like a mighty hurricane or thunder storm, and looking around, he saw the earth o|verflowed by torrents of water, which came, wave after wave, rushing down a vale or plain very near him, which it filled with water, and soon began to overwhelm the higher grounds, attended with a terrific noise and tremor of the earth; recovering from his first surprise, he immediately resolved to proceed for 〈◊〉〈◊〉 place from whence the noise seem|ed to come, and soon came in sight of the incom|parable fountain, and saw, with amazement, the floods rushing upwards many feet high, and the ex|panding waters, which prevailed every way, spread|ing themselves far and near: he at length conclud|ed (he said) that the fountains of the deep were a|gain broken up, and that an universal deluge had commenced, and instantly turned about and fled to alarm the town, about nine miles distance, but before he could reach it he met several of the inhabitants, who, already alarmed by the unusual noise, were hurrying on towards the place, upon which he returned with the Indians, taking their stand on an eminence to watch its progress and the event: it continued to jet and flow in this manner for several days, forming a large, rapid creek or river, descending and following the various courses and windings of the valley, for the distance of se|ven or eight miles, emptying itself into a vast savan|na,

where was a lake and sink which received and gave vent to its waters.

THE fountain, however, gradually ceased to o|verflow, and finally withdrew itself beneath the com|mon surface of the earth, leaving this capacious ba|son of waters, which, though continually near full, hath never since overflowed. There yet remains, and will, I suppose, remain for ages, the dry bed o•• the river or canal, generally four, five and six feet be|low the natural surface of the land; the perpendi|cular, ragged banks of which, on each side, shew the different stratas of the earth, and at places, where ridges or a swelling bank crossed and opposed its course and fury, are vast heaps of fragments of rocks, white chalk, stones and pebbles, which were collected and thrown into the lateral vallies, until the main stream prevailed over and forced them aside, overflowing the levels and meadows, for some miles distance from the principal stream, on either side. We continued down the great vale, along its banks, quite to the savanna and lake where it vented itself, while its ancient subterranean channel was gradually opening, which, I imagine, from some hidden event or cause had been choaked up, and which, we may suppose, was the immediate cause of the eruption.

IN the evening having gained our encampment, on a grassy knoll or eminence, under the cover of spreading Oaks, just by the grotto or sink of the lake, which lay as a sparkling gem on the flowery bosom of the ample savanna; our roving associ|ates soon came in from ranging the forests; we con|tinued our encampment at this place for several days, ranging around the delightful country to a great

distance, every days excursion presenting new scenes of wonder and delight.

EARLY in the morning our chief invited me with him on a visit to the town, to take a final leave of the White King. We were graciously received, and treated with the utmost civility and hospitali|ty; there was a noble entertainment and repast provided against our arrival, consisting of bears ribs, venison, varieties of fish, roasted turkies (which they call the white man's dish) hot corn cakes, and a very agreeable, cooling sort of jelly, which they call conte; this is prepared from the root of the China brier (Smilax pseudo China; Smilax aspera, fructu nigro, radice nodosa, magna, laevi, farinacea. Sloan, tom 1. p. 31. t. 143. f. 1. habit. Jamaica, Virginia, Carolina and Florida;) they chop the roots in pieces, which are afterwards well pound|ed in a wooden mortar, then being mixed with clean water, in a tray or trough, they strain it through baskets, the sediment, which settles to the bottom of the second vessel, is afterwards dried in the o|pen air, and is then a very fine, reddish flour or meal; a small quantity of this mixed with warm water and sweetened with honey, when cool, be|comes a beautiful, delicious jelly, very nourishing and wholesome; they also mix it with fine Corn flour, which being fried in fresh bear's oil makes very good hot cakes or fritters.

ON our taking leave of the king and head men, they intreated our chief to represent to the white people, their unfeigned desire to bury in oblivion the late breach of amity and intermission of com|merce, which they trusted would never be reflect|ed on the people of Talahasochte; and lastly,

that we would speedily return with merchandize as heretofore; all which was cheerfully consented to, assuring them their wishes and sentiments fully co|incided with ours.

THE chief trader, intending to shew me some re|markable barren plains, on our return to our en|campment; about noon we sat ••ff; when we came within sight of them, I was struck with astonish|ment at their dreary appearance; the view Souther|ly seemed endless wastes, presenting rocky, gra|velly and sandy barren plains, producing scarcely any vegetable substances, except a few shrubby, crooked Pine trees, growing out of heaps of white rocks, which represented ruins of villages, planted over the plains; with clumps of mean shrubs, which served only to perpetuate the persecuting power and rage of fire, and to testify the aridity of the soil; the shrubs I observed were chiefly the follow|ing, Myrica cerifera, two or three varieties, one of which is very dwarfish; the leaves small, yet toothed or sinuated, of a yellowish green colour, owing to a farinaceous pubesence or vesicula which covers their surfaces; Prinos, varieties, Andromeda ferruginae, Andr. nitida, varieties, Rhamnus fran|gula, Sideroxilon sericium, Ilex aquifolium, Ilex myrtifolium, Empetrum, Kalmia ciliata, Cassine, and a great variety of shrub Oaks, evergreen and deci|duous, some of them singularly beautiful; Cory|ph••••repens, with a great variety of herbage, par|••••••••••••rly Cacalia, Prenanthus, Chrysocoma, Heli|a••••nus, Silphium, Lobelia, Globularia, Helenium, Polygala, varieties, Olinopodium, Cactus, various species, Euphorbia, various species, Asclepias car|nosa, very beautiful and singular, Sophora, Dian|thus, Cistus, Sisymbrium, Pedicularis, Gerardia,

Lechea, Gnaphalium, Smilax sarsaparilla, Smilax pumila, Solidago, Aster, Lupinus filifolius, Galega, Hedysarum, &c. with various species of grasses; but there appeared vast spaces of gravel and plains of flat rocks, just even with the surface of the earth, which seemed entirely destitute of any vegetation, unless we may except some different kinds of mos|ses of the crustaceous sorts, as lichen, alga, &c. and coralloides. After passing several miles on the borders of these deserts, frequently alighting on them for observation and making collections; they at length gradually united or joined with infinite savannas and ponds, stretching beyond the sight Southerly, parallel with the rocky barrens, being seperated only by a narrow, low, rocky ridge of open groves, consisting of low, spreading Live Oaks, Zanthoxilon, Ilex, Sideroxilon, &c. and here and there, standing either in groups or alone, the pompous Palm tree, gloriously erect or gracefully bowing towards the earth; exhibiting a most plea|sing contrast and wild Indian scene of primitive un|modified nature, ample and magnificent. We at length came a-breast of the expansive, glittering lake, which divided the ample meadows, one end of which stretching towards a verdant eminence, form|ed a little bay, which was partly encircled by groups of white, chalky rocks, shaded with Live Oaks, Bays, Zanthoxilon and Palm trees. We turned our hors|es to graze in the green lawns, whilst we traversed the groves and meadows. Here the palmated Con|volvulus trailed over the rocks, with the 〈◊〉〈◊〉 carnosa (Fol. quinatis inciso-serratis, 〈◊〉〈◊〉) and the fantastic Clitoria, decorating 〈…〉〈…〉 with garlands (Clit. caule volubili fol. 〈…〉〈…〉 netisque, flor. majore caeruleo, vexilio 〈…〉〈…〉 siliquis longissimis compressis.)

SOON after entering the forests, we were met in the path by a small company of Indians, smiling and beckoning to us long before we joined them; this was a family of Talahasochte who had been out on a hunt, and were returning home loaded with barbecued meat, hides and honey; their com|pany consisted of the man, his wife and children, well mounted on fine horses, with a number of pack-horses; the man presently offered us a fawn|skin of honey, which we gladly accepted, and at parting I presented him with some fish hooks, sew|ing needles, &c. For in my travels amongst the Indians, I always furnished myself with such use|ful and acceptable little articles of light carriage, for presents; we parted and before night rejoined our companions at the Long Pond.

ON our return to camp in the evening, we were saluted by a party of young Indian warriors, who had pitched their camp on a green eminence near the lake, and at a small distance from our camp, under a little grove of Oaks and Palms. This company consisted of seven young Siminoles, under the conduct of a young prince or chief of Talaha|sochte, a town Southward in the isthmus, they were all dressed and painted with singular elegance, and richly o••namented with silver plates, chains, &c. after the Siminole mode, with waving plumes of feathers on their crests. On our coming up to them they arose and shook hands; we alighted and sat awhile with them by their cheerful fire.

THE young prince informed our chief, that he was in pursuit of a young fellow, who had fled from the town, carrying off with him one of his fa|vourite young wives or concubines; he said merri|ly he would have the ears of both of them before

he returned; he was rather above the middle sta|ture, and the most perfect human figure I ever saw; of an amiable engaging countenance, air and deportment; free and familiar in conversation, yet retaining a becoming gracefulness and dignity. We arose, took leave of them, and crossed a little vale covered with a charming green turf, already illumined by the soft light of the full moon.

SOON after joining our companions at camp, our neighbours the prince and his associates paid us a visit; we treated them with the best fare we had, having till this time preserved some of our spiritu|ous liquors; they left us with perfect cordiality and cheerfulness, wishing us a good repose, and retired to their own camp, having a band of music with them, consisting of a drum, flutes and rattle gourd, they entertained us during the night with their music, vocal and instrumental.

THERE is a languishing softness and melancholy a•••• in the Indian convivial songs, especially of the amorous class, irresistibly moving, attractive, and exquisitely pleasing, especially in these solitary re|cesses when all nature is silent.

BEHOLD how gracious and beneficent smiles the roseate morn! now the sun arises and fills the plains with light, his glories appear on the forests, encom|passing the meadows, and gild the top of the tere|binthine Pine and exalted Palms, now gently rust|ling by the pressure of the waking breezes: the music of the seraphic crane resounds in the skies, in seperate squadrons they sail, encircling their pre|cincts, slowly descend beating the dense air, and 〈◊〉〈◊〉 on the green dewy verge of the expansive lake; its surface yet smoaking with the grey as|cending

mists, which, condensed aloft in clouds of vapour, are born away by the morning breezes and at last gradually vanish on the distant horizon. All nature awakes to life and activity.

THE ground during our progress this morning, every where about us presenting to view, those funnels, sinks and wells in groups of rocks, amidst the groves, as already recited.

NEAR our next encampment one more conspicuous than I had elsewhere observed presented, I took occasion from this favourable circumstance of ob|serving them in all their variety of appearances: its outer superficial margin being fifty or sixty yards over, which equally and uniformly on every side sloped downwards towards the center; on one side of it was a considerable path-way or road leading down to the water, worn by the frequent resort of wild creatures for drink, when the waters were ri|sen even or above the rocky bed, but at this time they were sunk many yards below the surface of the earth, we descended first to the bed of rocks, which was perforated with perpendicular tubes, ex|actly like a walled well, four, five or six feet in di|ameter, and may be compared to cells in an honey|comb, through which appeared the water at bot|tom, many of these were broken or worn one into another, forming one vast well with uneven walls, consisting of projecting jambs, pilasters or buttress|es, and excavated semicircular niches, as if a piece were taken out of an honey-comb; the bed or rocks is from fifteen to twenty feet deep or in thick|ness, though not of one solid mass, but of many generally horizontal laminae, or strata of various thickness, from eighteen inches to two or three feet, and admit water to weep through, trickling

down, drop after drop, or chasing each other in winding little rills down to the bottom; one side of the vast cool grotto was so shattered and broken in, I thought it possible to descend down to the water at bottom, and my companion assuring me that the Indians and traders frequently go down for drink, encouraged me to make the attempt as he agreed to accompany me.

HAVING provided ourselves with a long snagged sapling, called an Indian ladder, and each of us a pole, by the assistance of these we both descended safely to the bottom, which we found nearly level and not quite covered over with water; on one side was a bed of gravel and fragments of rocks or stones, and on the other a pool of water near two feet deep, which moved with a slow current under the walls on a bed of clay and gravel.

AFTER our return to the surface of the earth, I again ranged about the groves and grottos, examin|ing a multitude of them; being on the margin of one in the open forest, and observing some curious vegetable productions growing on the side of the sloping funnel toward its center, the surface of the ground covered with grass and herbage; unapprehensive of danger, I descended precipitately towards the group of shrubs, when I was surprised and providentially stopped in my career, at the ground sounding hollow under my feet, and observing chasms through the ground, I quickly drew back, and returning again with a pole with which I beat in the earth, when to my astonishment and dread appeared the mouth of a well through the rocks, and observed the water glimmering at the bottom. Being wearied with excursions, we returned to our pleasant situation on the verge of the lawn.

NEXT day we sat off on our return to the lower trading-house, proposing to encamp at a savanna, about twelve miles distance from this, where we were to halt again and stay a day or two, in order to collect together another party of horses, which had been stationed about that range; the young wild horses often breaking from the company, render|ed our progress slow and troublesome; we how|ever arrived at the appointed place long before night.

I HAD an opportunity this day of collecting a va|riety of specimens and seeds of vegetables, some of which appeared new to me, particularly Sopho|ra, Cistus, Tradescantia, Hypoxis, Tatropa, Ge|rardia, Pedicularis, Mimosa sensitiva, Helonias, Melanthium, Lillium, Aletris, Agave, Cactus, Za|mia, Empetrum, Erythryna, Echium, &c.

NEXT day, the people being again engaged in their business of ranging the forests and plains, in search of their horses, I accompanied them, and in our rambles we again visited the great savanna and lake, called the Long Pond: the lake is nearly in the middle of the spacious lawn, of an oblong form; above two miles wide and seven in length; one end approaching the high, green banks adjoining the forests, where there is an enchanting grove and grotto of pellucid waters, inhabited with multitudes of fish, continually ascending and descending through the clean, white rocks, gradually sloping from the green verged shore, by gradual steps, from smooth, flat pavements washed by the swelling undulations of the waters.

ARRIVED in the evening at camp, where we found the rest of our companions busily employed in se|curing

the young freakish horses. The next day was employed in like manner, breaking and tutor|ing the young steeds to their duty. The day fol|lowing we took a final leave of this land of mea|dows, lakes, groves and grottos, directing our course for the trading path, having traversed a country, in appearance, little differing from the region ly|ing upon Little St. Juan; we gained about twelve miles on our way, and in the evening encamped on a narrow ridge, dividing two savannas from each o|ther, near the edge of a deep pond; here our peo|ple made a large pen or pound to secure their wild horses during the night. There was a little hom|mock or islet containing a few acres of high ground, at some distance from the shore, in the drowned savanna, almost every tree of which was loaded with nests of various tribes of water fowl, as ardea alba, ar. violacea, ar. cerulea, ar. stellaris crestata, ar. stellaris maxima, ar. virescens, colymbus, tantalus, mergus and others; these nests were all alive with young, generally almost full grown, not yet fledg|ed, but covered with whitish or cream coloured soft down. We visited this bird isle, and some of our people taking sticks or poles with them, soon beat down, loaded themselves with these squabs and returned to camp; they were almost a lump of fat, and made us a rich supper; some we roasted and made others into a pilloe with rice: most of them, except the bitterns and tantali, were so ex|cessively fishy in taste and smell, I could not relish them. It is incredible what prodigious numbers there were, old and young, on this little islet, and the confused noise which they kept up continually, the young crying for food incessantly, even whilst in their throats, and the old alarmed and displeas|ed at our near residence, and the depredations we

had made upon them; their various languages, cries and fluttering caused an inexpressible uproar, like a public fair or market in a populous trading city, when suddenly surprised by some unexpected, ca|lamitous event.

ABOUT midnight, having fallen asleep, I was a|wakened and greatly surprised at finding most of my companions up in arms, and furiously enga|ged with a large alligator but a few yards from me. One of our company, it seems, awoke in the night, and perceived the monster within a few paces of the camp, who giving the alarm to the rest, they readily came to his assistance, for it was a rare piece of sport; some took fire-brands and cast them at his head, whilst others formed javelins of sap|lins, pointed and hardened with fire; these they thrust down his throat into his bowels, which caus|ed the monster to roar and bellow hideously, but his strength and fury was so great that he easily wrenched or twisted them out of their hands, which he wielded and brandished about and kept his ene|mies at distance for a time; some were for put|ting an end to his life and sufferings with a rifle ball, but the majority thought this would too soon deprive them of the diversion and pleasure of ex|ercising their various inventions of torture; they at length however grew tired, and agreed in one opinion, that he had suffered sufficiently, and put an end to his existence. This crocodile was about twelve feet in length: we supposed that he had been allured by the fishy scent of our birds, and encouraged to undertake and pursue this hazard|ous adventure which cost him his life: this, with other instances already recited, may be sufficient to prove the intrepidity and subtilty of those vo|racious, formidable animals.

WE sat off early next morning, and soon after falling into the trading path, accomplished about twenty miles of our journey, and in the evening encamped as usual, near the banks of savannas and ponds, for the benefit of water and accommodati|ons of pasture for our creatures. Next day we passed over part of the great and beautiful Alachua Savanna, whose exuberant green meadows, with the fertile hills which immediately encircle it, would if peopled and cultivated after the manner of the civilized countries of Europe, without crouding or incommoding families, at a moderate estimation, accommodate in the happiest manner, above one hundred thousand human inhabitants, besides milli|ons of domestic animals; and I make no doubt this place will at some future day be one of the most po|pulous and delightful seats on earth.

WE came to camp in the evening, on the banks of a creek but a few miles distance from Cuscowil|la, and two days more moderate travelling brought us safe back again to the lower trading-house, on St. Juan, having been blessed with health and a prosperous journey.

ON my arrival at the stores, I was happy to find all well as we had left them, and our bringing with us friendly talks from the Siminole towns, and the Nation likewise, compleated the hopes and wishes of the trading company, with respect to their com|mercial concerns with the Indians, which, as the chearing light of the sun-beams after a dark, tem|pestuous night, diffused joy and conviviality through|out the little community, where were a number of men with their families, who had been put out of employment and subsistence, anxiously waiting the happy event.

CHAP. VIII.

AS a loading could not be procured until late in the autumn, for the schooner that was to return to Georgia, this circumstance allowed me time and opportunity to continue my excursions in this land of flowers, as well as at the same time to augment my collections of seeds, growing roots, &c.

I RESOLVED upon another little voyage up the river; and after resting a few days and refitting my bark, I got on board the necessary stores, and fur|nishing myself with boxes to plant roots in, with my fuzee, amunition and fishing tackle, I sat sail, and in the evening arrived at Mount Royal. Next morning ••••ing moderately calm and serene, I sat sail with a gentle leading breeze, which delight|fully wafted me across the lake to the West coast, landing on an airy, sandy beach, a pleasant, cool si|tuation, where I passed the night, but not without frequent attacks from the musquitoes, and next day visited the Great Springs, where I remained until the succeeding day, encreasing my collections of spe|cimens, seeds and roots, and then recrossed the lake to the Eastern coast. This shore is generally bold|er and more rocky than the Western, it being ex|posed to the lash of the surf, occasioned by the W. and N. W. winds, which are brisk and constant from nine or ten o' clock in the morning till towards midnight, almost the year round; though the S. winds are considerable in the spring, and by short intervals during the summer and winter; and the N. E. though sometimes very violent in the spring

and ••utumn, does not continue long. The day was employed in coasting slowly, and making col|lections. In the evening I made a harbour under cover of a long point of flat rocks, which defended the mole from the surf; having safely moored my bark, and chosen my camping ground just by, du|ring the fine evening I reconnoitred the adjacent groves and lawns; ••••ere is a deserted plantation, the property of Dr. Stork, where he once resided. I observed many lovely shrubs and plants in the old fields and Orange groves, particularly several spe|cies of Convolvulus and Ipomea, the former having very large, white, sweet scented flowers; they are great ramblers, climbing and strolling on the shrubs and hedges. Next morning I re-embarked and continued traversing the bold coast North-Eastward, and searching the shores at all convenient landings, where I was amply rewarded for my assiduity in the society of beauties in the blooming realms of Flo|rida. Came to again, at an old deserted plantation, the property of a British gentleman, but some years since vacated. A very spacious frame building was settling to the ground and mouldering to earth; here are very extensive old fields, where were grow|ing the West-Indian or perennial Cotton and Indi|go, which had been cultivated here, and some scat|tered remains of the ancient Orange groves, which had been left standing at the clearing of the plan|tation.

I HAVE often been affected with extreme regret, at beholding the destruction and devastation which has been committed, or indiscreetly exercised on those extensive, fruitful Orange groves, on the banks of St. Juan, by the new planters under the British government, some hundred acres of which, at a

single plantation, has been entirely destroyed to make room for the Indigo, Cotton, Corn, Batatas, &c. or as they say, to extirpate the musquitoes, alledging that groves near their dwellings are haunts and shelters for those persecuting insects; some plan|tations have not a single tree standing, and where any have been left, it is only a small coppice or clump, nakedly exposed and destitute; perhaps fifty or an hundred trees standing near the dwelling-house, ha|ving no lofty cool grove of expansive Live Oaks, Lau|rel Magnolias and Palms to shade and protect them, exhibiting a mournful, sallow countenance; their native perfectly formed and glossy green foliage as if violated, defaced and torn to pieces by the bleak winds, scorched by the burning sun-beams in sum|mer, and chilled by the winter frosts.

IN the evening I took up my quarters in the beau|tiful isle in sight of Mount Royal. Next day, af|ter collecting what was new and worthy of particu|lar notice, I sat sail again and called by the way at Mount Royal, in the evening arrived safe at the stores, bringing along with me valuable collections.

CHAP. IX.

AT the trading house I found a very large party of the Lower Creeks encamped in a grove, just without the pallisadoes; this was a predatory band of the Siminoles, consisting of about forty warriors destined against the Chactaws of West Florida. They had just arrived here from St. Augustine, where they had been with a large troop of horses for sale, and furnished themselves with a very liberal sup|ply of spirituous liquors, about twenty kegs, each containing five gallons.

THESE sons of Mars had the continence and for|titude to withstand the temptation of even tasting a drop of it until their arrival here, where they purposed to supply themselves with necessary arti|cles to equip them for the expedition, and pro|ceed on directly; but here meeting with our young traders and pack-horse men, they were soon pre|vailed on to broach their beloved nectar; which in the end caused some disturbance, and the consump|tion of most of their liquor, for after they had once got a smack of it, they never were sober for ten days, and by that time there was but little left.

IN a few days this festival exhibited one of the most ludicrous bachanalian scenes that is possible to be conceived, white and red men and wo|men without distinction, passed the day merrily with these jovial, amorous topers, and the nights in con|vivial songs, dances and sacrifices to Venus, as long as they could stand or move; for in these frolicks both sexes take those liberties with each other, and

act, without constraint or shame, such scenes as they would abhor when sober or in their senses; and would endanger their ears and even their lives; but at last their liquor running low, and being most of them sick through intoxication, they be|came more sober, and now the dejected lifeless sots would pawn every thing they were in pos|session of, for a mouthful of spirits to settle their stomachs, as they termed it. This was the time for the wenches to make their market, as they had the fortitude and subtilty by dissimulation and arti|fice to save their share of the liquor during the frolick, and that by a very singular stratagem, for, at these riots, every fellow who joins in the club, has his own quart bottle of rum in his hand, hold|ing it by the neck so sure that he never looses hold of it day or night, drunk or sober, as long as the frolick continues, and with this, his beloved friend, he roves about continually, singing, roaring and reel|ing to and fro, either alone or arm in arm with a brother toper, presenting his bottle to every one, offering a drink, and is sure to meet his beloved female if he can, whom he complaisantly begs to drink with him, but the modest fair, veiling her face in a mantle, refuses (at the beginning of the frolick) but he presses and at last insists; she being furnished with an empty bottle, concealed in her mantle, at last consents, and taking a good long draught, blushes, drops her pretty face on her bo|som and artfully discharges the rum into her bot|tle, and by repeating this artifice soon fills it; this she privately conveys to her secret store, and then returns to the jovial game, and so on during the festival; and when the comic farce is over, the wench retails this precious cordial to them at her own price.

THERE were a few of the chiefs, particularly the Long Warrior their leader, who had the prudence and fortitude to resist the alluring temptation during the whole farce; but though he was a powerful chief, a king and a very cunning man, he was not able to controul these madmen, although he was ac|knowledged by the Indians to have communion with powerful invisible beings or spirits, and on that account esteemed worthy of homage and great respect.

AFTER the Indians became sober they began to prepare for their departure; in the morning early the Long Warrior and chiefs sent a messenger to Mr. M'Latche, desiring to have a talk with him upon matters of moment; accordingly about noon they arrived; the conference was held in the piazza of the council house; the Long Warrior and chiefs who attended him, took their seats upon a long bench adjoining the side or front of the house, reach|ing the whole length of it, on one hand; and the principal white traders on the other, all on the same seat; I was admitted at this conference, Mr. M'Latche and the Long Warrior sat next to each other, my late companion, the old trader and my|self sat next to him.

THE Long Warrior spake, saying, that he and his companions were going to fight their ene|mies the Chactaws, and that some of his associates being in want of blankets, shirts and some other articles, which they declined supplying themselves with at St. Augustine, because they had rather stick close to their old friend Mr. Spalding, and bring their buckskins, surs and other produce of their country to his trading house, (which they knew

were acceptable) to purchase what they wanted; But not having the skins, &c. with them to pay for such things as they had occasion for, yet doubt|ed not, but that on their return, they should bring with them sufficient not only to pay their debts, a|bout to be contracted, but be able to make other considerable purchases, as the principal object of this expedition was hunting on the plentiful borders of the Chactaws. Mr. M'Latch hesitating, and expressing some dissatisfaction at his request; par|ticularly at the length of time and great uncertain|ty of obtaining pay for the goods, and moreover his being only an agent for Messrs. Spalding & Co. and the magnitude and unprecedented terms of the Long Warrior's demands, required the company's assent and directions before he could comply with their request.

THIS answer displeased the Indian chief, and I observed great agitation and tumult in his passions, from his actions, hurry and rapidity of speech and expression; the old interpreter who sat by asked me if I fully understood the debate, I answered that I apprehended the Long Warrior was displeased, he told me he was so, and then recapitulated what has been said respecting his questions and Mr. M'Latche's answer; adding that upon his hesitation he immediately replied, in seeming disgust and great expressions of anger, "Do you presume to refuse me credit; certainly you know who I am and what power I have; but perhaps you do not know that if the matter required it, and I pleased, that I could command and cause the terrible thun|der * 1.24 now rolling in the skies above, to descend

upon your head, in rapid fiery shafts, and lay you prostrate at my feet, and consume your stores, turning them instantly into dust and ashes." Mr. M'Latche calmly replied, that he was fully sensi|ble that the Long Warrior was a great man, a powerful chief of the bands of the respectable Si|minoles, that his name was terrible to his ene|mies, but still he doubted if any man upon earth had such power, but rather believed that thunder and lightning was under the direction of the Great Spirit, but however, since we are not disposed to deny your power, supernatural influence and inter|course with the elements and spiritual agents, or withhold the respect and homage due to so great a prince of the Siminoles, friends and allies to the white people; if you think fit now in the presence of us all here, command and cause yon terrible thunder with its rapid fiery shafts, to descend upon the top of that Live Oak * 1.25 in front of us, rend it in pieces, scatter his brawny limbs on the earth and consume them to ashes before our eyes, we will then own your supernatural power and dread your displeasure.

AFTER some silence the prince became more calm and easy, and returned for answer, that recollecting the former friendship and good understanding, which had ever subsisted betwixt the white people and red people of the Siminole bands, and in particular, the many acts of friendship and kindness received from Mr. M'Latche, he would look over this affront; he acknowledged his reasoning and expostulations to be just and manly, that he should suppress his resentment, and withhold his power and vengeance at present. Mr. M'Latche concluded, by saying that he was not

in the least intimidated by his threats of destroying him with thunder and lightning, neither was he disposed in any manner to displease the Siminoles, and should certainly comply with his requisitions, as far as he could proceed without the advice and directions of the company, and finally agreed to supply him and his followers with such things as they stood most in need of, such as shirts, blankets and some paints, one half to be paid for directly, and the remainder to stand on credit until their return from the expedition. This determination entire|ly satisfied the Indians. We broke up the confer|ence in perfect amity and good humour, and they returned to their camp and in the evening, ratified it with feasting and dancing, which continued all next day with tolerable decorum. An occurrence happened this day, by which I had an opportunity of observing their extraordinary veneration or dread of the rattle snake; I was in the forenoon busy in my apartment in the council-house, drawing some curious flowers; when, on a sudden, my attention was taken off by a tumult without, at the Indian camp; I stepped to the door opening to the piazza, where I met my friend the old interpreter, who informed me that there was a very large rattle snake in the Indian camp, which had taken possession of it, having driven the men, women and children out, and he heard them saying that they would send for Puc-Puggy (for that was the name which they had given me, signifying the Flower Hunter) to kill him or take him out of their camp; I answer|ed that I desired to have nothing to do with him, apprehending some disagreeable consequences, and desired that the Indians might be acquainted that I was engaged in business that required applicati|on and quiet, and was determined to avoid it if

possible; my old friend turned about to carry my answer to the Indians, I presently heard them ap|proaching and calling for Puc-Puggy; starting up to escape from their sight by a back door, a par|ty consisting of three young fellows, richly dressed and ornamented, stepped in, and with a countenance and action of noble simplicity, amity and complai|sance, requested me to accompany them to their encampment; I desired them to excuse me at this time; they plead and entreated me to go with them, in order to free them from a great rattle snake which had entered their camp, that none of them had freedom or courage to expel him, and understanding that it was my pleasure to collect all their animals and other natural productions of their land, desired that I would come with them and take him away, that I was welcome to him. I at length consented and attended on them to their encamp|ment, where I beheld the Indians greatly disturbed indeed. The men with sticks and tomahawks, and the women and children collected together at a distance in affright and trepidation, whilst the dread|ed and revered serpent leisurely traversed their camp, visiting the fire places from one to another, picking up fragments of their provisions and licking their platters. The men gathered around me, ex|citing me to remove him: being armed with a lightwood knot, I approached the reptile, who in|stantly collected himself in a vast coil (their attitude of defence) I cast my missile weapon at him, which luckily taking his head, dispatched him instant|ly, and laid him trembling at my feet; I took out my knife, severed his head from his body, then turn|ing about, the Indians complimented me with eve|ry demonstration of satisfaction and approbation for my heroism, and friendship for them. I carried off

the head of the serpent bleeding in my hand as a trophy of victory, and taking out the mortal fangs, deposited them carefully amongst my collections. I had not been long retired to my apartment before I was again roused from it by a tumult in the yard, and hearing Puc-Puggy called on, I started up, when instantly the old interpreter met me again, and told me the Indians were approaching in order to scratch me; I asked him for what; he answer|er for killing the rattle snake within their camp. Before I could make any reply or effect my escape, three young fellows singing, arm in arm, came up to me; I observed one of the three was a young prince who had, on my first interview with him, de|clared himself my friend and protector, when he told me that if ever occasion should offer in his pre|sence, he would risk his life to defend mine or my property. This young champion stood by his two associates, one on each side of him, the two affect|ing a countenance and air of displeasure and impor|tance, instantly presenting their scratching instru|ments, and flourishing them, spoke boldly, and said that I was too heroic and violent, that it would be good for me to loose some of my blood to make me more mild and tame, and for that purpose they were come to scratch me; they gave me no time to ex|postulate or reply, but attempted to lay hold on me, which I resisted, and my friend, the young prince, interposed and pushed them off, saying that I was a brave warrior and his friend, that they should not insult me, when instantly they altered their countenance and behaviour; they all whoop|ed in chorus, took me friendly by the hand, clapped me on the shoulder and laid their hands on their breasts in token of sincere friendship, and laughing aloud, said I was a sincere friend to the Siminoles,

a worthy and brave warrior, and that no one should hereafter attempt to injure me: they then all three joined arm in arm again and went off, shouting and proclaiming Puc-Puggy was their friend, &c. Thus it seemed that the whole was a ludicrous farce to satisfy their people 〈◊〉〈◊〉 appease the manes * 1.26 of the slain rattle snake.

THE next day was employed by the Indians in pre|parations for their departure, such as taking up their goods from the trading house, collecting to|gether their horses, making up their packs, &c. and the evening joyfully spent in songs and dances. The succeeding morning after exhibiting the war|farce they decamped, proceeding on their expedi|tion against their enemy.

CHAP. X.

BUT let us again resume the subject of the rat|tle snake; a wonderful creature, when we consider his form, nature and disposition, it is certain that he is capable by a puncture or scratch of one of his fangs, not only to kill the largest animal in America, and that in a few minutes time, but to turn the whole body into corruption; but such is the nature of this dreaded reptile, that he cannot run or creep faster than a man or child can walk, and he is never known to strike until he is first assaulted or fears himself in danger, and even then always gives the earliest warning by the rattles at the extremity of his tail. I have in the course of my travels in the Southern states (where they are the largest, most numerous and supposed to be the most venemous and vindictive) stept unknowingly so close as almost to touch one of them with my feet, and when I perceived him he was already drawn up in circular coils ready for a blow. But however incredible it may appear, the generous, I may say magnani|mous creature lay as still and motionless as if inan|imate, his head crouched in, his eyes almost shut, I precipitately withdrew, unless when I have been so shocked with surprise and horror as to be in a manner rivetted to the spot, for a short time not having strength to go away, when he often slowly extends himself and quietly moves off in a direct line, unless pursued when he erects his tail as far as the rattles extend, and gives the warning alarm by intervals, but if you pursue and overtake him with a shew of enmity, he instantly throws himself into

the spiral coil, his tail by the rapidity of its mo|tion appears like a vapour, making a quick tremu|lous sound, his whole body swells through rage, continually rising and falling as a bellows; his beau|tiful particoloured skin becomes speckled and rough by dilatation, his head and neck are flattened, his cheeks swollen and his lips constricted, discover|ing his mortal fangs; his eyes red as burning coals, and his brandishing forked tongue of the colour of the hottest flame, continually menaces death and destruction, yet never strikes unless sure of his mark.

THE rattle snake is the largest serpent yet known to exist in North America, I have heard of their having been seen formerly, at the first settling of of Georgia, seven, eight and even ten feet in length, and six or eight inches diameter, but there are none of that size now to be seen, yet I have seen them a|bove six feet in length, and about six inches in thick|ness, or as large as a man's leg, but their general size is four, five and six feet in length. They are supposed to have the power of fascination in an e|minent degree, so as to inthral their prey. It is generally believed that they charm birds, rabbits, squirrels and other animals, and by stedfastly look|ing at them possess them with infatuation; be the cause what it may, the miserable creatures undoubt|edly strive by every possible means to escape, but alas! their endeavours are in vain, they at last loose the power of resistance, and slutter or move slowly, but reluctantly towards the yawning jaws of their devourers, and creep into their mouths or lay down and suffer themselves to be taken and swal|lowed.

SINCE, within the circle of my acquaintance, I am known to be an advocate or vindicator of the be|nevolent and peaceable disposition of animal crea|tion in general, not only towards mankind, whom they seem to venerate, but also towards one ano|ther, except where hunger or the rational and ne|cessary provocations of the sensual appetites inter|fere. I shall mention a few instances, amongst many, which I have had an opportunity of remark|ing during my travels, particularly with regard to the animal I have been treating of, I shall strictly confine myself to facts.

WHEN on the sea coast of Georgia, I consented, with a few friends, to make a party of amusement at fishing and fowling on Sapello, one of the sea coast islands; we accordingly descended the Alata|maha, crossed the sound and landed on the North end of the island, near the inlet, fixing our encamp|ment at a pleasant situation, under the shade of a grove of Live Oaks and Laurels * 1.27, on the high banks of a creek which we ascended, winding through a salt marsh, which had its source from a swamp and savanna in the island: our situation elevated and open, commanded a comprehensive landscape; the great ocean, the foaming surf breaking on the sandy beach, the snowy breakers on the bar, the endless chain of islands, checkered sound and high continent all appearing before us. The diverting toils of the day were not fruitless, affording us op|portunities of furnishing ourselves plentifully with a variety of game, fish and oysters for our supper.

ABOUT two hundred yards from our camp was a cool spring, amidst a grove of the odoriferous My|rica;

the winding path to this salubrious fountain led through a grassy savanna; I visited the spring seve|ral times in the night, but little did I know, or a|ny of my careless drowsy companions, that every time we visited the fountain we were in imminent danger, as I am going to relate; early in the morning, excited by unconquerable thirst, I a|rose and went to the spring, and having, thought|less of harm or danger, nearly half past the dewy vale, along the serpentine foot path, my hasty steps were suddenly stopped by the sight of a hideous ser|pent, the formidable rattle snake, in a high spiral coil, forming a circular mound half the height of my knees, within six inches of the narrow path; as soon as I recovered my senses and strength from so sudden a surprise, I started back out of his reach, where I stood to view him: he lay quiet whilst I surveyed him, appearing no way surprised or dis|turbed, but kept his half-shut eyes fixed on me; my imagination and spirits were in a tumult, almost equally divided betwixt thanksgiving to the Supreme Creator and preserver, and the dignified nature of the generous though terrible creature, who had suf|fered us all to pass many times by him during the night, without injuring us in the least, although we must have touched him, or our steps guided there|from by a supreme guardian spirit: I hastened back to acquaint my associates, but with a determinati|on to protect the life of the generous serpent; I presently brought my companions to the place, who were, beyond expression, surprised and terrified at the sight of the animal, and in a moment acknow|ledged their escape from destruction to be miracu|lous; and I am proud to assert, that all of us, except one person, agreed to let him lay undisturbed, and

that person at length was prevailed upon to suffer him to escape.

AGAIN, when in my youth, attending my father on a journey to the Catskill Mountains, in the go|vernment of New-York; having nearly ascended the peak of Giliad, being youthful and vigorous in the pursuit of botanical and novel objects, I had gained the summit of a steep rocky precipice, a-head of our guide, when, just entering a shady vale, I saw at the root of a small shrub, a singular and beautiful appearance, which I remember to have instantly apprehended to be a large kind of Fungus which we call Jews ears, and was just drawing back my foot to kick it over, when at the instant, my father being near, cried out, a rattle snake my son, and jerked me back, which probably saved my life; I had never before seen one, this was of the kind which our guide called a yellow one, it was very beautiful, speckled and clouded. My father plead for his life, but our guide was inexorable, saying he never spared the life of a rattle snake, and killed him; my father took his skin and fangs.

SOME years after this, when again in company with my father on a journey into East Florida, on the banks of St. Juan, at Fort Picolata, attending the congress at a treaty between that government and the Creek Nation, for obtaining a territory from that people to annex to the new government. After the Indians and a detachment from the gar|rison of St. Augustine had arrived and encamped seperately, near the fort, some days elapsed before the business of the treaty came on, waiting the ar|rival of a vessel from St. Augustine, on board of which were the presents for the Indians. My fa|ther employed this time of leisure in little excur|sions

round about the fort; and one morning, being the day the treaty commenced, I attended him on a botanical excursion, some time after we had been rambling in a swamp about a quarter of a mile from the camp, I being a-head a few paces my father bid me observe the rattle snake before and just at my feet, I stopped and saw the monster formed in a high spiral coil, not half his length from my feet, another stop forward would have put my life in his power, as I must have touched if not stumbled over him; the fright and perturbation of my spirits at once excited resentment, at that time I was entirely insensible to gratitude or mercy; I instantly cut off a little sapling and soon dispatched him: this serpent was about six feet in length, and as thick as an ordinary mans leg. The rencounter deterred us from proceeding on our researches for that day. So I cut off a long tough withe or vine, which fastening round the neck of the slain serpent I dragged him after me, his scaly body sounding over the ground, and entering the camp with him in triumph, was soon surrounded by the amazed multitude, both Indians and my country|men. The adventure soon reached the ears of the commander who sent an officer to request that, if the snake had not bit himself, he might have him served up for his dinner; I readily delivered up the body of the snake to the cooks, and being that day invited to dine at the governor's table, saw the snake served up in several dishes: governor Grant being fond of the flesh of the rattle snake; I tasted of it but could not swallow it. I however, was sorry after killing the serpent when cooly re|collecting every circumstance, he certainly had it in his power to kill me almost instantly, and I make no doubt but that he was conscious of it. I promis|ed

myself that I would never again be accessary to the death of a rattle snake, which promise I have invaribly kept to. This dreaded animal is easily killed, a stick no thicker than a man's thumb is suf|ficient to kill the largest at one stroke, if well di|rected either on the head or across the back, nor can they make their escape by running off, nor in|deed do they attempt it when attacked.

THE moccasin snake is a large and horrid serpent to all appearance, and there are very terrifying stories related of him by the inhabitants of the Southern states, where they greatly abound, par|ticularly in East Florida: that their bite is always incurable, the flesh for a considerable space about the wound rotting to the bone, which then becomes caros, and a general mortification ensues, which in|fallibly destroys the patient; the members of the body rotting and dying by piecemeal, and that there is no remedy to prevent a lingering miserable death but by immediately cutting away the flesh to the bone, for some distance round about the wound. In shape and proportion of parts they much resem|ble the rattle snake, and are marked or clouded much after the same manner, but their colours more dull and obscure; and in their disposition seem to agree with that dreaded reptile, being slow of pro|gression, and throw themselves in a spiral coil ready for a blow when attacked. They have one pecu|liar quality, which is this, when discovered, and observing their enemy to take notice of them, after throwing themselves in a coil, they gradually raise their upper mandible or jaw until it falls back near|ly touching their neck, at the same time slowly vi|brating their long purple forked tongue, their crook|ed poisonous fangs directed right at you, gives the

creature a most terrifying appearance. They are from three to four and even five feet in length, and as thick as a man's leg; they are not numerous, yet too common, and a sufficient terror to the mi|serable naked slaves, who are compelled to labour in the swamps and low lands where they only abound.

I NEVER could find any that knew an instance of any person's loosing their life from the bite of them, only by hearsay. Yet I am convinced it is highly prudent for every person to be on their guard a|gainst them. They appear to be of the viper tribe, from their swelling of their body and flattening their neck when provoked, and from their large poison|ous fangs; their head, mouth and eyes are remark|bly large.

THERE is another snake in Carolina and Florida called the moccasin, very different from this, which is a very beautiful creature, and I believe not of a distructive or vindictive nature; these when grown to their greatest size are about five feet in length, and near as thick as a man's arm; their skin scaly but smooth and shining, of a pale grey and sky co|lour ground, uniformly marked with transverse un|dulatory ringlets or blotches of a deep nut brown, edged with red or bright Spanish I own; they ap|pear innocent, very active and swift, endeavouring to escape from one; they have no poisonous fangs. These are seen in high forest lands, about rotten logs decayed fallen limbs of trees, and they har|bour about old log buildings. They seem to be a species, if not the very same snake which in Pennsyl|vania and Virginia, are called the wampom snake, but here in warmer Southern climes they grow to a much larger size, and from the same accident their colour may be more variable and deeper. They are by

the inhabitants asserted to be dangerously venemous, their bite incurable, &c. But as I could never learn an instance of their bite being mortal o•• attended with any dangerous consequence, and having had frequent opportunities of observing their nature and disposition, I am inclined to pronounce them an innocent creature, with respect to mankind.

THE bastard rattle snake, by some called ground rattle snake, is a dangerous little creature, their bite is certainly mortal if present medical relief is not administred: they seem to be much of the na|ture of the asp or adder of the old world.

THIS little viper is in form and colour much like the rattle snake, but not so bright and uniformly marked; their head is broader and shorter in pro|portion with the other parts of their body; their nose prominent and turned upwards; their tail be|comes suddenly small from the vent to the extremi|ty, which terminates with three minute articulati|ons, resembling rattles; when irritated they turn up their tail which vibrates so quick as to appear like a mis•• or vapour, ••at causes little or no sound or noise, yet 〈◊〉〈◊〉 the common report of the inha|bitants, that they cause that remarkable vehem|ent noise, so frequently observed in forests in the heat of summer and autumn, very terrifying to strangers, which is, probably, caused by a very sa|ble, small insect of the genus cicadae, or which are called locusts in America, yet it is possible I may be mistaken in this conjecture. This dangerous vi|per is from eight to ten inches in length, and of proportionable thickness; they are a spiteful, snap|pish creature, throwing themselves into a little coil, swell and flatten themselves, continually darting out their head, and they seem capable of springing

beyond their length. They seem destitute of the pacific disposition and magnanimity of the rattle snake, and are unworthy of an alliance with him; no man ever saves their lives, yet they remain too numerous, even in the oldest settled parts of the country.

THE green snake is a beautiful innocent creature; they are from two to three feet in length, but not so thick as a persons little finger, of the finest green colour. They are very abundant, commonly seen on the limbs of trees and shrubs: they prey upon insects and reptiles, particularly the little green cha|meleon; and the forked tailed hawk or kite feeds on both of them, snatching them off the boughs of the trees.

THE ribband snake is another very beautiful in|nocent serpent; they are eighteen inches in length, and about the thickness of a man's little finger; the head is very small; the ground colour of a full, clear vermilion, variegated with transverse bars or zones of a dark brown, which people fancy repre|sents a ribband wound round the creature's body: they are altogether inoffensive to man, and are in a manner domestic, frequenting old wooden build|ings, open grounds and plantations.

THE chicken snake is a large, strong and swift serpent, six or seven feet in length, but scarcely so thick as a man's wrist; they are of a cinerious, earthy colour, and striped longitudinally with broad lines or lists, of a dusky or blackish colour. They are a domestic snake, haunting about houses and plantations, and would be useful to man if tamed and properly tutored, being great devourers of rats,

but they are apt to disturb hen roosts and prey upon chickens. They are as innocent as a worm with respect to venom are easily tamed and soon become very familiar.

THE pine or bull snake is very large and inoffen|sive with respect to mankind, but devour squirrels, birds, rabbits and every other creature they can take as food. They are the largest snake yet known in North America, except the rattle snake, and per|haps exceed him in length; they are pied black and white; they utter a terrible loud hissing noise, sounding very hollow and like distant thunder, when irritated, or at the time of incubation, when the males contend with each other for the desired fe|male. These serpents are also called horn snakes, from their tail terminating with a hard, horny spur, which they vibrate very quick when disturbed, but they never attempt to strike with it; they have dens in the earth, whither they retreat precipitate|ly when apprehensive of danger.

THERE are many other species of snakes in the re|gions of Florida and Carolina, as the water snake, black snake, garter snake, copper belly, ring neck and two or three varieties of vipers besides those alrea|dy noticed in my journal. Since I have begun to mention the animals of these regions, this may be a proper place to enumerate the other tribes which I observed during my perigrinations. I shall be|gin with the frogs (RANAE.)

(1) THE largest frog known in Florida and on the sea coast of Carolina, is about eight or nine inches in length from the nose to the extremity of the toes; they are of a dusky brown or black co|lour on the upper side, and their belly or under side

white, spotted and clouded with dusky spots of va|rious size and figure; their legs and thighs also are variegated with transverse ringlets, of dark brown or black, and are yellow and green about their mouth and lips: they live in wet swamps and marsh|es, on the shores of large rivers and lakes; their voice is loud and hideous, greatly resembling the grunting of a swine, but not near as loud as the voice of the bull frog of Virginia and Pennsylvania, neither do they arrive to half their size, the bull frog being frequently eighteen inches in length, and their roaring as loud as that of a bull.

(2) THE bell frog, so called because their voice is fancied to be exactly like the sound of a loud cow bell. This tribe being very numerous, and uttering their voices in companies or by large dis|tricts, when one begins another answers, thus the sound is caught and repeated from one to another, to a great distance round about, causing a surpri|sing noise for a few minutes, rising and sinking ac|cording as the wind sets, when it nearly dies away, or is softly kept up by distant districts or communi|ties, thus the noise is repeated continually, and as one becomes familiarised to it is not unmusical, though at first, to strangers, it seems, clamorous and disgusting.

(3) A BEAUTIFUL green frog inhabits the grassy, marshy shores of these large rivers. They are ve|ry numerous, and their noise exactly resembles the barking of little dogs, or the yelping of puppies; these likewise make a great clamour, but as their notes are fine, and uttered in chorus, by separate bands or communities, far and near, rising and falling with the gentle breezes, affords a pleasing kind of music.

(4) THERE is besides this a less green frog, which are very common about houses: their notes are remarkably like that of young chickens; these raise their chorus immediately preceeding a shower of rain, with which they seem delighted.

(5) A LITTLE grey speckled frog are in prodigi|ous numbers in and about the ponds and savannas on high land, particularly in Pine forests; their lan|guage or noise is also uttered in chorus, by large com|munities or separate bands; each particular note re|sembles the noise made by striking two pebbles to|gether under the surface of the water, which when thousands near you utter their notes at the same time, and being wafted to your ears by a sudden flow of wind, is very surprising, and does not ill resemble the rushing noise made by a vast quantity of gravel and pebbles together, at once precipitat|ed from a great height.

(6) THERE is yet an extreme diminutive species of frogs, which inhabits the grassy verges of ponds in savannas: these are called savanna crickets, are of a dark ash or dusky colour, and have a very picked nose. At the times of very great rains in the au|tumn, when the savannas are in a manner inunda|ted, they are to be seen in incredible multitudes clambering up the tall grass, weeds, &c. round the verges of the savannas, bordering on the higher ground, and by an inattentive person might be ta|ken for spiders or other insects. Their note is very feeble, not unlike the chattering of young birds or crickets.

(7) THE shad frog, so called in Pennsylvania from their appearing and croaking in the spring season, at the time the people fish for shad: these are a

beautiful spotted frog, of a slender form, five or six inches in length from the nose to the extremities; of a dark olive green, blotched with clouds and ringlets of a dusky colour: these are remarkable jumpers, and enterprising hunters, leaving their ponds to a great distance in search of prey. They abound in rivers, swamps and marshes, in the Sou|thern regions; in the evening and sultry summer days, particularly in times of drought, are very noi|sy, and at some distance one would be almost persuaded that there were assemblies of men in se|rious debate. These have also a sucking or cluck|ing noise, like that which is made by sucking in the tongue under the roof of the mouth. These are the kinds of water frogs that have come under my observation, yet I am persuaded that there are yet remaining several other species.

(8) THE high land frogs, commonly called toads, are of two species, the red and black. The for|mer, which is of a reddish brown or brick colour, is the largest, and may weigh upwards of one pound when full grown; they have a disagreeable look, and when irritated, they swell and raise themselves up on their four legs and croak, but are no ways venomous or hurtful to man. The other species are one third less, and of a black or dark dusky co|lour; the legs and thighs of both are marked with blotches and ringlets of a darker colour, which ap|pear more conspicuous when provoked: the smaller black species are the most numerous. Early in the spring season, they assemble by numberless multi|tudes in the drains and ponds, when their universal croaking and shouts are great indeed, yet in some degree not unharmonious: after this breeding time they crawl out of the waters and spread themselves

all over the country. Their spawn being hatched in the warm water, the larva is there nourished, passing through the like metamorphoses as the wa|ter frogs, and as soon as they obtain four feet whilst yet no larger than crickets, they leave the fluid nursery-bed and hop over the dry land after their parents.

THE food of these amphibious creatures, when out of the water, is every kind of insect, reptile, &c. they can take, even ants and spiders, nature having furnished them with an extreme long tongue, which exudes a viscid or glutinous liquid, they be|ing secreted under covert, spring suddenly upon their prey, or dart forth their tongues as quick as lightning, and instrantly drag into their devouring jaws the unwary insect. But whether they prey up|on one another as the water frogs do, I know not.

THERE are several species of the lizard kind be|sides the alligator, which is by naturalist allowed to be a species of that genus.

THE green lizard or little green chameleon is a pretty innocent creature: the largest I have seen were not more than seven inches in length; they appear commonly of a fine green colour, having a large red gill under their throat; they have the fa|culty of changing colour, which, notwithstanding the specious reasoning of physiologists, is a very surprising phenomenon. The striped lizard, called scorpion, and the blue bellied squamous lizards I have already mentioned. There is a large copper coloured lizard, and a very slender one of a fine blue colour, and very swift; the tail of this last, which is very long and slender, is as subject to be broken off as that of the glass snake. These two

last are become very scarce, and when seen are dis|covered about old log buildings.

HERE are several species of the tortoise, besides those already mentioned; as the small land tortoise, already described by every traveller. There is a good figure and description of him in G. Edwards's Gl. Nat Hist. vol. II. p. 205. There are two spe|cies of fresh-water tortoises inhabiting the tide wa|ter rivers, one of which is large, weighing ten or twelve pounds, the back shell of nearly an oval form, and raised very high, the belly shell flat and entire, but deeply scolloped opposite their legs. The other species are small comparatively, and the back shell lightly raised; both species are food for mankind and esteemed delicious.

OF beasts the otter (lutra) is common, but more so in West-Florida, towards the mountains. The several species of mustela are common, as the mink, weasel and polecat; (putorius) racoons and opos|sums, are in great abundance, these animals are es|teemed delicious and healthy food. There are two species of wild-rats, but neither of them near as large as the European house-rat, which are com|mon enough in the settlements of the white peo|ple: here are very few mice, yet I have seen some, particularly in Charleston; I saw two in a little wire cage, at a gentleman's house, which were as white as snow, and their eyes red. There are yet a few beavers in East-Florida and Georgia, but they a|bound most in the north of Georgia, and in West|Florida, near the mountains. But the muskrat (cas|tor cauda lanciolata) are never seen in Carolina, Georgia or Florida, within one hundred miles of the sea coast and very few in the most northern parts of these regions which must be considered

as a most favourable circumstance, by the people in countries where there is so much banking and drain|ing of the land, they being the most destructive creatures to dykes.

THE roe-buck I have already mentioned. The bears are yet too numerous: they are a strong crea|ture, and prey on the fruits of the country, and will likewise devour young calves, swine and sheep, but I never could learn a well attested instance of their attacking mankind; they weigh from five hundred to six hundred weight when full grown and fat, their flesh is greatly esteemed as food by the natives.

THE wild-cat, felis cauda truncata, (lynx) are common enough; they are fierce and bold little a|nimal, preying on young pigs, fawns, turkies, &c. they are not half the size of a common cur dog, are generally of a greyish colour, and somewhat tab|bied; their sides bordering on the belly is varied with yellowish brown spots, and almost black wav|ed streaks, and brindled. I have been credibly in|formed that the wolves here are frequently seen pied, black and white, and of other mixed colours. They assemble in companies in the night time, howl and bark altogether, especially in cold winter nights, which is terrifying to the wandering bewildered traveller.

THE foxes of Carolina and Florida are of the smaller red species; they bark in the night round about plantations, but do not bark twice in the same place; they move precipitately and in a few minutes are heard on the opposite side of the plan|tation, or at a great distance: it is said that dogs are terrified at the noise, and cannot be persuaded

or compelled to pursue them, they commit depre|dations on young pigs, lambs, poultry, &c.

THE mole is not so common here as in the north|ern states.

THE bats of Florida seem to be the same species of those in Pennsylvania and Virginia, and very lit|tle different from the European.

HERE are several species of squirrels, (sciurus) peculiar to the lower countries, or maritime parts of Carolina and the Floridas, and some of them are very beautiful creatures.

THE great black fox squirrel is above two feet in length from the nose to the end of the tail, which for about two inches is milk white, as are the ears and nose. The red fox squirrel is of the same size and form, of a light reddish brown upper side, and white under side, the ears and tip end of the tail white.

The grey fox squirrel is rather larger than either of the foregoing, their belly white, as are the ears, nose, and tip of the tail: these three seem to be varieties of the same species.

THE common grey squirrel is about half the size of the preceding.

THE black squirrel is about the same size, and all over of a shining jet black.

THE little grey squirrel is much less than either of the preceding species, they are of a brownish grey upper side, and white belly.

THE ground squirrel, or little striped squirrel of Pennsylvania and the northern regions, are never seen here, and very rarely in he mountains north|west of these territories; but the flying squirrel, (sciurus volans) are very common.

THE rabbit (lepus minor, cauda abrupta, pupillis atris) are pretty common, and no ways differing from those of Pennsylvania and the northern states.

HAVING mentioned most of the animals in these parts America, which are most remarkable or useful, there remains however yet some observati|ons on birds, which by some may be thought not impertinent.

THERE are but few that have fallen under my ob|servation but have been mentioned by the zoologists, and most of them very well figured in Catesby's, or Edwards's works.

BUT these authors have done very little toward^s illucidating the subject on the migration of birds, or accounting for the annual appearance and dis|appearance, and vanishing of these beautiful and entertaining beings, who visit us at certain stated seasons; Catesby has said very little on this curious subject, but Edwards more, and perhaps all, or as much as could be said in truth, by the most able and ingenious, who had not the advantage and oppor|tunity of occular observation, which can only be ac|quired by travelling, and residing a whole year at least in the various climates from north to south to the full extent of their peregrinations, or minutely examining the tracts and observations of curious and industrious travellers who have published their memoirs on this subject. There may perhaps be some persons who consider this enquiry not to be

productive of any real benefit to mankind, and pro|nounce such attention to natural history merely spe|culative, and only fit to amuse and entertain the idle virtuoso; however, the ancients thought otherwise, for with them, the knowledge of the passage of birds was the study of their priests and philosophers, and was considered a matter of real and indispen|sable use to the state, next to astronomy, as we find their system and practice of agriculture was in a great degree regulated by the arrival and disap|pearance of birds of passage, and perhaps a calen|der under such a regulation at this time, might be useful to the husbandman and gardener.

BUT however attentive and observant the anci|ents were on this branch of science, they seem to have been very ignorant, or erroneous in their con|jectures concerning what became of birds, after their disappearance, until their return again. In the southern and temperate climates some imagin|ed they went to the moon: in the northern regions they supposed that they retired to caves and hollow trees, for shelter and security, where they remain|ed in a dormant state during the cold seasons; and even at this day, very celebrated men leave asserted that swallows (hirundo) at the approach of winter, voluntarily plunge into lakes and rivers, descend to the bottom, and there creep into the mud and slime, whe•••• they continue overwhelmed by ice in a torpid state, until the returning summer warms them again into life, when they rise, return to the surface of the water, immediately take wing, and again people the air. This notion, though the lat|est, seems the most difficult to reconcile to reason or common sense; that a bird so swift of flight that can with ease and pleasure move through the air

even swifter than the winds, and in a few hours time shift themselves twenty degrees from north to south, even from frozen regions to climes where frost is never seen, and where the air and plains are replenished with flying insects of infinite varie|ty, their favourite and only food.

PENNSYLVANIA and Virginia appear to me to be the climates in North America, where the greatest variety and abundance of these winged emigrants choose to celebrate their nuptials, and rear their off|spring, which they annually return with, to their winter habitations in the southern regions of N. America; and most of these beautiful creatures who annually people and harmonize our forests and groves in the spring and summer seasons, are birds of passage from the southward. The eagle, i. e. falco leucocephalus, or bald eagle, falco maximus, or great grey eagle, falco major cauda ferruginio, falco pullarius, falco columbarius, strix pythaulis, strix acclamatus, strix assio, tetrao tympanus, or pheasant of Pennsylvania, tetrao urogallus, or mountain cock or grous of Pennsylvania, tetrao minor five coturnix, or partridge of Pennsylvania, picus, or woodpeckers of several species, corvus car|nivorus, or raven corvus frugivora, or crow, cor|vus glandarius s. corvus cristatus, or blue jay, alu|da maxima, regulus atrofuscus minor, or marsh wren, sitta, or nuthatch, meleagris, are perhaps nearly all the land birds which continue the year round in Pennsylvania. I might add to these the blue bird, motacilla sialis, mo••k bird, turdus poly|glottos, and sometimes the robin redbreast, turdus migratorius, in extraordinary warm winters, and although I do not pretend to assert as a known truth, yet it may be found on future observation

that most of these above mentioned are strangers, or not really bred where they wintered, but are more northern families, or sojourners, bound sou|therly to more temperate habitations; thus pushing each other southerly, and possessing their vacated places, and then back again at the return of spring.

VERY few tribes of birds build, or rear their young, in the south or maritime parts of Virginia and Carolina, Georgia and Florida; yet all these numerous tribes, particularly of the soft billed kinds, which breed in Pennsylvania, pass in the spring season through these regions in a few weeks time, making but very short stages by the way; and again, but few of them winter there, on their return southerly; and as I have never travelled the continent south of New Orleans, or the point of Florida, where few or none of them are to be seen in the winter, I am entirely ignorant how far south|ward they continue their route during their absence from Pennsylvania, but perhaps none of them pass the tropic.

WHEN in my residence in Carolina and Florida, I have seen vast flights of the house swallow (hirur|do pelasgia) and bank martin (hirundo riparia) pas|sing onward north toward Pennsylvania, where they breed in the spring, about the middle of March, and likewise in the autumn in September or Octo|ber, and large flights on their return southward; and it is observable that they always avail them|selves of the advantages of high and favourable winds, which likewise do all birds of passage. The pewit, or black cap slycatcher, of Catesby, is the first bird of passage which appears in the spring in Pennsylvania, which is generally about the first, on

middle of March, and then wherever they appear, we may plant peas and beans in the open grounds, (vitia sativa) French beans (phaccolus) sow raddish|es, (raphanus) lettuce, (lactuca) onions, (cepa) pas|tinaca, daucus, and almost every kind of exculent garden seeds, without fear or danger from frosts; for although we have sometimes frosts after their first appearance for a night or two yet not so severe as to injure the young plants.

IN the spring of the year the small birds of pas|sage appear very suddenly in Pennsylvania, which is not a little surprising, and no less pleasing: at once the woods, the groves, and meads, are filled with their melody, as if they dropped down from the skies. The reason or probable cause is their setting off with high and fair winds from the southward; for a strong south and south-west wind about the beginning of April never fails bringing millions of these welcome visitors.

BEING willing to contribute my mite towards il|lustrating the subject of the peregrination of the tribes of birds of N. America, I shall subjoin a no|menclature of the birds of passage, agreeable to my observation, when on my travels from New-Eng|land to New-Orleans, on the Missiippi, and point of Florida.

LAND birds which are seen in Pennsylvania, Ma|ryland, Virginia, N. and S. Carolina, Georgia and Florida, from the sea coast Westward, to the Apa|lachian mountains, viz.

* THESE arrive in Pennsylvania in the spring sea|son from the South, which after building nests, and rearing their young, return again Southerly in the autumn.

†THESE arrive in Pennsylvania in the autumn, from the North, where they continue during the winter, and return again the spring following, I suppose to breed and rear their young; and these kinds continue their journies as far South as Caroli|lina and Florida.

‡THESE arrive in the spring in Carolina and Flo|rida from the South, breed and rear their young, and return South again at the approach of winter, but never reach Pennsylvania, or the Northern States.

||THESE are natives of Carolina and Florida, where they breed and continue the year round.

¶THESE breed and continue the year round in Pennsylvania.

STRIX. The OWL.

• †Strix arcticus, capite levi corpore toto niveo, the great white owl.
• ¶Strix pythaules, capite aurito, corpore rufo, the great horned owl.
• †Strix maximus, capite aurito, corpore niveo, the great horned white owl.
• ¶Strix acclamator, capite levi, corpore grisco, the whooting owl.
• †Strix peregrinator, capite aurito, corpore ver|sicolore, the sharp winged owl.
• ¶Strix assio, capite aurito, corpore ferruginio, the little screech owl.

VULTUR. The VULTURE.

• ||Vultur aura, the turkey buzzard.
• ||Vultur sacra, the white tailed vulture.
• ||Vultur atratus, black vulture, or carrion crow.

FALCO. Eagle and Hawk.

• ¶Falco regalis, the great grey eagle.
• ¶F. leucocephalus, the bald eagle.
• *F. piscatorius, the fishing eagle.
• ¶F. Aquilinus, cauda ferrug. great eagle hawk.
• ¶F. gallinarius, the hen hawk.
• ¶F. Pullarius, the chicken hawk.
• *F. columbarius, the pidgeon hawk.
• ¶F. niger, the black hawk.
• *F. ranivorus, the marsh hawk.
• *F. sparverius, the least hawk or sparrow hawk.

* 1.28 MILVUS. Kite Hawk.

• ||Falco furcatus, the forked tail hawk, or kite.
• ||F. glauous, the sharp winged hawk, of a pale sky-blue colour, the tip of the wings black.
• ||F. subcerulius, the sharp winged hawk, of a dark of dusky blue colour.
• ||Psitticus Carolmiensis, the parrot of Carolina, or parrakeet.

CORVUS. The Crow kind.

• *Corvus carniv••r••s, the raven.
• ||C. maritimus, the great sea-side crow, or rook.
• ¶C. frugivorus, the common crow.
• ¶C. cristatus, s. pica glandaria, the blue jay.
• ¶C. Floridanus, pica glandaria minor, the little jay of Florida.
• ¶Gracula quiscula, the purple jackdaw of the sea coast.
• Pica glandaria cerulea non cristata, the little jay of East Florida.
• ...

• ...

• *Gracula purpurea, the lesser purple jackdaw, or crow blackbird.
• *Cuculus Caroliniensis, the cuckoo of Carolina.

PICUS. Woodpeckers.

• ||Picus principalis, the greatest crested wood|pecker, having a white back.
• *P. pileatus, the great red crested black wood|pecker.
• *P. erythrocephalus, red headed woodpecker.
• *P. auratus, the gold winged woodpecker.
• ¶P. Carolinus, the red bellied woodpecker.
• ¶P. pubescens, the least spotted woodpecker.
• ¶P. villosus, the hairy, speckled and crested woodpecker.
• ¶P. varius, yellow bellied woodpecker.
• ¶Sitta Europea, grey black capped nuthatch.
• †S. varia, ventre rubro, the black capped, red bellied nuthatch.
• †Certhia rufa, little brown variegated creeper.
• *C. pinus, the pine creeper.
• *C. picta, blue and white striped or pied creeper.
• *Alcedo alcyon, the great crested king-fisher.
• *Trochilus colubris, the humming bird.
• *Lanius griscus, the little grey butcher-bird of Pennsylvania.
• *L. garrulus, the little black capped butcher|bird of Florida.
• *L. tyrannus, the king bird.
• *Muscitapa nunciola, the pewit, or black cap flycatcher.
• *M. cristata, the great crested yellow bellied flycatcher.
• *M. rapax, the lesser pewit, or brown and greenish flycatcher.
• *M. subviridis, the little olive cold. flycatcher.
• ...

• *Muscicapa cantatrix, the little domestic fly|catcher or green wren.
• *M. sylvicola, the little red eye'd flycatcher.
• *Columba Caroliniensis, the turtle dove.
• ||C. passerina, the ground dove.
• †C. migratoria, the pigeon of passage or wild pigeon.
• *Alauda magna, the great meadow lark.
• †A. campestris, gutture flavo, the sky lark.
• †A migratoria, corpore toto ferrugineo, the little brown lark.
• ¶Turdus migratorius, the fieldfare, or robin redbreast.
• *T. rufus, the great, or fox coloured thrush.
• *T. polyglottos, the mocking bird.
• *T. melodes, the wood thrush.
• *T. minimus, vertice aurio, the least golden crown thrush.
• *Oriolus Baltimore, Baltimore bird or hang nest.
• *O. spurius, the goldfinch or icterus minor.
• *Merula flammula, sand-hill redbird of Carolina.
• *M. Marilandica, the summer red bird.
• *Garrulus australis, the yellow breasted chat.
• *Lucar lividus, apice nigra, the cat bird, or chicken bird.
• ¶Ampelis garrulus, crown bird, or cedar bird.

GRANIVOROUS TRIBES.

• ¶Meleagris Americanus, the wild turkey.
• ¶Tetrao lagopus, the mountain cock, or grous.
• ¶T. tympanus, the pheasant of Pennsylvania.
• ¶T. minor, s. coturnix, the quail or partridge.
• ¶Loxia cardinalis, the red bird, or Virginia nightingale.
• †L. rostro forficato, the cross beak.
• *L. cerulea, the blue cross beak.
• ...

• *Emberiza oryzivora, (1) the rice bird. * 1.29
• ‡E. livida, the blue or slate coloured rice bird.
• *E. varia, (2) the pied rice bird.
• ‡Linaria ciris, the painted finch, or nonpareil.
• *L. cyanea, the blue linnet.
• ¶Carduelus Americanus, the goldfinch.
• †C. pinus, the lesser goldfinch.
• †C. pusilus, the least finch.
• *Fringilla erythrophthalma, the towhe bird.
• †F. purpurea, the purple finch.
• †F. canabina, the hemp bird.
• †F. rufa, the red, or fox-coloured ground or hedge sparrow.
• †F. fusca, the large brown white throat sparrow
• *Passer domesticus, the little house sparrow or chipping bird.
• *P. palustris, the reed sparrow.
• *P. agrestis, the little field sparrow.
• †P. nivalis, the snow bird.
• *Calandra pratensis, the May bird.
• *Sturuns predatorius, the red winged sterling, or corn thief.
• *S. stercorarius, the cowpen bird.
• *Motacilla sialis, the blue bird. (Rebicula A|mericana, Cat.)
• *M. fluviatilis, the water wagtail.
• *M. domestica (regulus rufus) the house wren.
• ¶*M. palustris, (reg. minor) the marsh wren.
• *M. Caroliniana, (reg. magnus) the great wren of Carolina, the body of a dark brown, the throat and breast of a pale clay colour.
• *Regulus griceus, the little bluish grey wren.
• †R. cristatus, the golden crown wren.
• ...

• †R. cristatus alter vertice rubini coloris, the ru|by crown wren. (G. Edwards)
• *R. peregrinus, gutture flavo, the olive colour|ed yellow throated wren.
• *Ruticilla Americana, the redstart.
• *Luscinia, s. philomela Americana, the yellow hooded titmouse.
• *Parus cristatus, bluish grey crested titmouse.
• ¶P. Europeus, the black cap titmouse.
• *P. luteus, the summer yellow bird.
• *P. cedrus, uropygio slavo, the yellow rump.
• *P. varius, various coloured little finch creeper.
• *P. peregrinus, little chocolate breast titmouse.
• *P. aureus vertice rubro, the yellow red pole.
• *P. aurio vertice, the golden crown flycatcher.
• *P. viridis gutture nigro, the green black throat|ed flycatcher.
• *P. alis aureis, the golden winged flycatcher.
• *P. aureus alis ceruleis. the blue winged yel|low bird.
• *P. griccus gutture luteo, the yellow throated creeper.
• *Hirundo pelasgia, cauda aculeata, the house swallow.
• *H. purpurea, the great purple martin.
• *H. riparia vertice purpurea, the bank martin.
• *H. cerdo, the chimney swallow.
• ‡Caprimulgus lucifugus, the great bat, or chuck wills widow.
• *C. Americanus, night hawk, or whip poor will.

AMPHIBIOUS, or AQUATIC BIRDS, Or such as obtain their food, and and reside in, and near the water.

• ...
  GRUS. The Crane.
  • ||Grus clamator, vertice papilloso, corpore niveo

• ...
  • remigibus nigris, the great whooping crane.
  • ‡G. pratensis, corpore cinereo, vertice papilloso, the great savanna crane.
  ARDEA. The Heron.
  • ¶Ardea Herodias, the great bluish grey crested heron.
  • *A. immaculata, the great white river heron.
  • *A. alba minor, the little white heron.
  • ‡A. purpurea cristata, the little crested purple or blue heron.
  • *A. varra cristata, the grey white crested heron.
  • ‡A. maculata cristata, the speckled crested he|ron, or crabcatcher.
  • *A. mugitans, the marsh bitern, or Indian hen.
  • *A. clamator, corpore subcer••leo, the quaw bird, or frogcatcher.
  • ‡A. subfusca stillata, the little brownish spotted bitern.
  • ‡A. violacca, the crested blue bitern, (called poor Jobe.)
  • *A. viriscens, the green bitern or poke.
  • *A. viriscens minor, the lesser green bitern.
  • *A. parva, the least brown and striped bitern.
  • *Platalea ajaja, the spoonbill, seen as far North as Alatamaha river in Georgia.
  TANTALUS. The Wood Pelicane.
  • ‡Tantalus loculator, the wood pelicane.
  • ‡T. alber, the white Spanish curlew.
  • ‡T. fuscus, the dusky and white Spanish curlew.
  • ||T. pictus, (Ephouskyka Indian) the crying bird, beautifully speckled.
  • ||T. Ichthyophagus, the gannet, perhaps little different from the Ibis.
  • ||Numenius, alba varia, the white godwit.
  • ¶N. pectore ruso, the great red breasted godwit.
  • ...

• ...
  • ¶N. Americana, the greater godwit.
  • ¶N. fluvialis, the red shank or pool snipe.
  • ¶N. magnus rufus, the great sea coast curlew.
  • *N. minor campestris, the lesser field curlew.
  • ¶N. cinereus, the sea side lesser curlew.
  • *Scolopax Americana rufa, great red woodcock.
  • *S. minor arvensis, the meadow snipe.
  • *Tringa rufa, the red cootfooted tring.
  • T. cinerea, gutture albo, the white throated cootfooted tringa.
  • *T. vertice nigro, black cap cootfooted tringa.
  • ¶T. maculata, the spotted tringa.
  • ¶T. griceus, the little pond snipe.
  • ¶T. fusca, the little brown or ash coloured pool snipe.
  • ¶T. parva, the little trings of the sea shore, called sand birds.
  • *Morinella Americana, the turnstone or dotrill.
  • †Cygnus ferus, the wild swan.
  • †Anser Canadensis, the Canadian goose.
  • †A. aliis ceruliis, the blue winged goose.
  • †A. suscus maculatus, the laughing goose.
  • †A. branta, corpore albo, remigibus nigris, the white brant goose.
  • †A. branta grisca maculata, the great partico|loured brant, or grey goose.
  • †Anas fera torquata major, caput et collum vi|ridi splendentis, dorsum grisco fuscum, pec|tore rufescente speculum violacrum, the great wild duck, called duck and mallard.
  • †A. nigra maxima, the great black duck.
  • †A. bucephala, the bull-neck and buffaloe head.
  • †A. subcerulea, the blue bill.
  • †A. leucocephala, the black white faced duck.
  • †A. caudacuta, the sprig tail duck.
  • †A. rustica, the little brown and white duck.
  • ...

• ...
  • †A. principalis, maculata, the various coloured duck, his neck and breast as tho' ornament|ed with chains or beads.
  • †A. minor picta, the little black and white duck called butterback.
  QUERQUIDULAE. Teal.
  • *Anas sponsa, the summer duck.
  • †A. discors, the blue winged teal.
  • †A. migratoria, the least green winged teal.
  • *A. fistulosa, whistling duck.
  • †Mergus major pectore rufo, great fishing duck.
  • †M. cucullatus, the round crested duck.
  • *Colymbus migratorius, the eel crow.
  • ||C. Floridanus, the great black cormorant of Florida, having a red beak.
  • ||C. colubrinus, cauda elongata, the snake bird of Florida.
  • ¶C. musicus, the great black and white pied diver or loon.
  • †Colymbus arcticus, the great speckled diver.
  • ¶C. auritus et cornutus, the little eared brown dobekick.
  • ¶C. minor fuscus, little crested brown dobedick.
  • ‡Phaeaton aethereus, the tropic bird.
  • ¶Larus alber, the great white gull.
  • ¶L. griceus, the great grey gull.
  • ¶L. alba minor, the little white river gull.
  • ||Onocrataius Americanus, the American sea pe|licane.
  • ||Petrella pintada, the pintado bird.
  • ¶Rynchops niger, the shearwater or razor bill.
  • ‡Pelicanus aquilus, the frigat or man of war bird.
  • ‡P. sula, the booby.
  • ‡Sterna stolida, the sea swallow, or noddy.

• ...
  CHARADRUS. The Plover Kind.
  • *Charadrus vociferus, the kildea or chattering plover.
  • *C. maculatus, the great field spotted plover.
  • *C. minor, the little sea side ring necked plover.
  • *Hematopus ostrealegus, the will willet or oist|er catcher.
  • ||Fulica Floridana, the great blue or state co|loured coot of Florida.
  • *Rallus Virginianus, the sorce bird or little brown rail, also called widgeon in Pennsyl.
  • ‡R. aquaticus minor, the little dark blue water rail.
  • *R. rufus Americanus, the greater brown rail.
  • ||R. major subceruleus, the blue or state colour|ed water rail of Florida.
  • *Phoenicopterus ruber, the flamingo, seen about the point of Florida, rarely as far N. as St. Augustine.

I AM convinced there are yet several kinds of land birds, and a great number of aquatic fowl that have not come under my particular notice, there|fore shall leave them to the investigations of future travelling naturalists of greater ability and in|dustry.

THERE yet remain some observations on the pas|sage, and breeding of birds, &c. which may be pro|per to notice in this place.

I SHALL first mention the rice bird, (emberiza oryza vora.) It is the common received opinion that they are male and female of the same species, i. e. the black pied rice bird the male, and a yel|lowish clay coloured one the female: the last men|tioned appearing only in the autumn, when the o|••yz-zizania

are about ripening, yet in my opinion there are some strong circumstances which seem to operate against such a conjecture, though general|ly believed.

IN the spring about the middle of May, the black pied rice bird (which is called the male) appear in Pennsylvania; at that time the great yellow ephe|mera, called May fly, and a species of locusta ap|pear in incredible multitudes, the favourite delici|ous food of these birds, when they are sprightly, vociferous, and pleasingly tuneful.

WHEN I was at St. Augustine, in E. Florida, in the beginning of April, the same species of grass|hoppers were in multitudes on the fields and com|mons about the town, when great flights of these male rice birds suddenly arrived from the South, who by feeding on these insects became extremely fat and delicious, they continued here two or three weeks, until their food became scarce, when they disappeared, I suppose pursuing their journey North after the locusta and ephemera; there were a few of the yellow kind, or true rice bird, to be seen a|mongst the 〈◊〉〈◊〉 Now these pied rice birds seem to observe the same order and time in their migrations Northerly, with the other spring birds of passage, and are undoubtedly on their way to their breeding place; but then there are no females with them, at least not one to ten thousand of the male colour, which cannot be supposed are a sufficient number to pair and breed by. Being in Charleston in the month of June, I observed at a gentleman's door, a cage full of rice birds, that is of the yellow or fe|male colour, who were very merry and vociferous, having the same variable music with the pied or male

kind, which I thought extraordinary, and observing it to the gentleman, he assured me that they were all of the male kind, taken the preceding spring, but had changed their colour, and would be next spring of the colour of the pied, thus changing colour with the seasons of the year. If this is really the case, it appears they are both of the same species inter|mixt, spring and fall. In the spring they are gay, vociferous and tuneful birds.

AMPELIS garrulus, crown bird or cedar bird. These birds feed on various sorts of succulent fruit and berries, associating in little flocks or flights, and are to be seen in all the regions from Canada to New Orleans on the Mississippi, and how much farther South and South-West I know not. They observe no fixed time of appearance in Pennsylvani|a, but are to be seen a few days every month of the year, so that it is difficult to determine at what sea|son they breed, or where. The longest period of their appearance in Pennsylvania is in the spring and first of June, at the time the early cherries are ripe, when they are numerous; and in the autumn when the Cedar berries are ripe (Juniperus Americana;) they arrive in large flights, who, with the robins (turdus migratorius) and yellow rump (parus cedrus) soon strip those trees of their berries, after which they disappear again; but in November and De|cember they appear in smaller flights, feeding on the fruit of the Pesimmon (Dyospyros Virginiana;) and some are seen till March, subsisting upon Smi|lax berries, Privet (Ligustrum ruelgare) and other permanent fruits; after which they disappear until May and June. I have been informed by some people in Pennsylvania, that they have found their nests at these seasons in Pennsylvania.

LINARIA ciris (emberiza ciris Linn.) or painted finch, or nonpareil of Catesby are not seen North of Cape Fear in North Carolina, and seldom ten miles from the sea coast, or perhaps twenty or thir|ty miles, near the banks of great rivers, in fragrant groves of the Orange (Citrus aurantium) Zanthox|ilon, Laurus Borbonia, Cassine, Sideroxilon, &c.

LINARIA cianea (tanagra Linn.) the blue linet, is supposed by some to be the nonpareil, in an early stage of life, not being yet arrived to his brillian|cy and variety of colours; but this is certainly a mistake, for the blue linet is longer and of a slen|derer configuration, and their notes more variable, vehement and sonorous; and the inhabit the con|tinent and sea coast islands from Mexico to Nova-Scotia, from the sea coast West beyond the Apala|chean and Cherokee mountains. The songs of the nonpareil are remarkably low, soft and warbling, exceedingly tender and soothing.

CATESBY in his history of Carolina, speaking of the cat-bird (muscicapa vertice nigro) says, "They have but one note, which resembles the mew|ing of a cat;" a mistake very injurious to the fame of that bird. He, in reality, being one of our most eminent songsters, little inferior to the philomela or mock-bird; and in some remarkable instances, perhaps, exceeds them both, in particular as a buf|foon or mimick; he endeavours to imitate every bird and animal, and in many attempts does not ill succeed, even in rehearsing the songs, which he at|tentively listens to, from the shepherdess and rural swain, and will endeavour and succeed to admira|tion, in repeating the melodious and variable airs from instrumental music, and this in his wild state of nature. They being a kind of domestic bird du|ring

their spring and summer residence in Pennsyl|vania, building their nests in gardens and sheltering themselves in groves near the houses; they cause great trouble and vexation to hens that have broods of chickens, by imitating their distressing cries, in which they seem to enjoy much delight, and cause some amusement to persons who are diverted at such incidents. They are the first bird heard singing in the morning, even before break of day.

THEY seem to be a tribe of birds seperated by na|ture from the motacilla, with which the zoologists have classed them, and appear allied to a tribe pe|culiar to America, to which Edwards has given the name of manakin: in their nature they seem to take place between the thrush (turdus) and motacil|la, their beak being longer, stronger and straiter than the motacilla, and formed for eating fruit, which is their chief food, yet they will feed on rep|tile insects, but never attempt to take their prey on the wing.

CATESBY is chargeable with the like mistake with respect to the little thrush (t. minor) and the fox co|loured thrush (t. rufes) both eminent singers, and the latter little inferior to the mock-bird. The for|mer for his shrill, sonorous and elevated strains in the high, shady forests; and the latter for variety, softness and constant responses in the hegdes and groves near houses.

BUT yet Catesby has some right of claim to our excuse and justification, for his detraction of the same due to these eminent musicians of the groves and forests, when we consider that he resided and made his collections and observations, in the regi|ons which are the winter retreats and residence of

these birds, where they rarely sing, as it is obser|vable and most true, that it is only at the time of incubation, that birds sing in their wild state of na|ture. The cat-bird, great and less thrush and field fare seldom or never build in Carolina beneath the mountains, except the great or fox coloured thrush in a few instances, but all these breed in Pennsyl|vania.

THE parakeet (psitlicus Carolinienses) never reach so far North as Pennsylvania, which to me is un|accountable, considering they are a bird of such sin|gular rapid flight, they could easily perform the journey in ten or twelve hours from North Caroli|na, where they are very numerous, and we abound with all the fruits which they delight in.

I WAS assured in Carolina, that these birds, for a month or two in the coldest winter weather, house themselves in hollow Cypress trees, clinging fast to each other like bees in a hive, where they continue in a torpid state until the warmth of the returning spring reanimates them, when they issue forth from their late dark, cold winter cloisters. But I lived several years in North Carolina and never was wit|ness to an instance of it, yet I do not at all doubt but there have been instances of belated flocks thus surprised by sudden severe cold, and forced into such shelter, and the extraordinary severity and perse|verance of the season might have benumbed them into a torpid, sleepy state; but that they all wil|lingly should yield to so disagreeable and hazard|ous a situation, does not seem reasonable or natural, when we consider that they are a bird of the swiftest flight and impatient of severe cold. They are ea|sily tamed, when they become docile and familiar, but never learn to imitate the human language.

BOTH species of the Baltimore bird (oriolus, Linn. icterus, Cat.) are spring birds of passage, and breed in Pennsylvania; they have loud and musical notes.

THE yellow breasted chat (oenanthe, Cat. mota|cilla trochilus, Linn.) is in many instances a very singular bird; the variableness and mimickry of his notes of speech, imitating various creatures; and a surprising faculty of uttering a coarse, hollow sounding noise in their throats or crops, which at times seems to be at a great distance, though ut|tered by a bird very near, and vice versa. They arrive in Pennsylvania from the South late in the month of May, breed and return again early in au|tumn.

IT is a matter of enquiry, who should have indu|ced the zoologists to class this bird with the motacil|la, when they discover no one characteristic to in|duce such an alliance. This bird having a remark|able thick, strong bill, more like the frugivorous tribes; and in my opinion they are guilty of the like oversight in classing the summer red-bird with the muscicapa, this bird having a thick, strong bill, approaching nearer the sterling (sturnus.)

THESE historical observations being noted, we will will again resume the subject of our journal.

CHAP. XI.

AFTER the predatory band of Siminoles, un|der the conduct of the Long Warrior, had decamp|ed, Mr. M 'Latche invited me with him on a visit to an Indian town, about twelve miles distance from the trading-house, to regale ourselves at a feast of Water mellons and Oranges, the Indians having brought a canoe load of them to the trading-house the day preceding, which they disposed of to the traders. This was a circumstance pretty extraor|dinary to me, it being late in September, a season of the year when the Citruel a••e ripe and gone in Georgia and Carolina, but here the weather yet continued hot and sultry, and consequently this cool, exhilerating fruit was still in high relish and estimation.

AFTER breakfasting, having each of us a Simi|nole horse completely equipped, we sat off: the ride was agreeable and variously entertaining; we kept no road or pathway constantly, but as Indian hunt|ing tracks, by chance suited our course, riding through high, open Pine forests, green lawns and flowery savannas in youthful verdure and gaity, having been lately burnt, but now overrun with a green enamelled carpet, checquered with hommocks of trees of dark green foliage, intersected with ser|pentine rivulets, their banks adorned with shrub|beries of various tribes, as Andromeda formosissima, And. nitida, And. virides, And. calyculata, And. axilaris, Halmea spuria, Annona alba, &c. About noon we arrived at the town, the same little village

I passed by on my ascent of the river, on the banks of the little lake below Charlotia.

WE were received and entertained friendly by the Indians, the chief of the village conducting us to a grand, airy pavilion in the center of the village. It was four square; a range of pillars or posts on each side supporting a canopy composed of Palmet|to leaves, woven or thatched together, which shad|ed a level platform in the center that was ascended to from each side, by two steps or flights, each a|bout twelve inches high, and seven or eight feet in breadth, all covered with carpets or matts, curi|ously woven of split canes dyed of various colours; here being seated o•• reclining ourselves, after smoak|ing tobacco, baskets of choicest fruits were brought and set before us.

THE fields surrounding the town and groves were plentifully stored with Corn, Citruels, Pumpkins, Squashes, Beans, Peas, Potatoes, Peaches, Figs, Oranges, &c.

TOWARDS evening we took our leave, and arrived at the stores before night, having in the course of the day collected a variety of curious specimens of vegetables, seeds and roots.

THE company being busily employed in forming their packs of leather and loading the vessel, and I being eager to augment my collections during my stay here, I crossed the river with a party of our people, who were transporting a gang of horses to range in the meadows and plains on the side oppo|site to the trading-house; we carried them over in a large flat or scow. The river was here above a mile wide, but divided into a number of streams by

numerous islands, which occasioned the voyage to be very troublesome, as most of the horses were lately taken wild out of their ranges, and many of them young and untutored; being under the neces|sity of passing near the points of the islands, they grew restless and impatient to land, and it was with great difficulty we kept them on board, and at last when within a quarter of a mile of the opposite shore, passing between two islands, the horses became ungovernable, and most of them plunged into the river and forced over board one of our people; I being a pretty good swimmer, in the midst of the bustle, and to avoid being beat over and perhaps wounded, I leapt out and caught hold of the dock of one of the horses; we all landed safe on one of the islands, about one hundred and fifty yards dist|ance, and the flat followed us: after a deal of trou|ble and loss of time we got the horses again into the scow, where securing them by withs and vines, we again sat off, and soon landed safe on the main, at a high bluff or bank of the river, where, after turn|ing the horses to pasture and resting ourselves, we sat off on a visit to a plantation on the river, six or eight miles distance: on the way thither we disco|vered a bee tree, which we cut down and regaled ourselves on the delicious honey; leaving one of our companions to protect the remainder until our return with a tub, to collect it and carry it with us, and in the evening we all returned safe with our sweet booty to the trading-house.

THE vessel being loaded and ready to depart, I got all my collections on board. My trusty and fortunate bark I presented to the old interpreter, Job Wiggens, often my travelling companion, friend and

benefactor, and taking an affectionate and final leave of the worthy C. M'Latche and the whole tra|ding company, we sat sail in a neat little schooner for Frederica in Georgia, about the last of Septem|ber. We had a pleasant and prosperous voyage down the grand river St. Juans, frequently visiting the plantations on the banks of the river, especial|ly at such times as opposed by contrary winds, and according to promise did not neglect calling on the generous and friendly Mr. Marshall, who received me so politely, and treated me with such unparal|leled friendship and hospitality, when ascending the river alone, last spring.

WE never once went out to sea during the voyage, for when we had descended the river below the Cow-Ford, we entered the sound by a channel be|tween Fort George Island and the main, through which we passed, and continued sailing between the sea coast islands and the main to Frederica on St. Simons.

ON my arrival at Frederica, I was again, as usual, friendly received and accommodated by the excel|lent J. Spalding, Esq. and here learning that the honourable Henry Lawrens, Esq. had a large ship loading at Sunbury for Liverpool, I determined to embrace so favourable an offer for conveying my collections to Europe, and hearing at the same time that Mr. Lawrens was daily expected in a vessel of his own, at his plantations on Broton Island and New Hope, in order to take a loading of rice for the car|go of the ship at Sunbury; I transported my collecti|ons to Broton, where meeting with Mr. Lawrens he generously permitted me to put my things on board his vessel, and gave me room with himself in the cabin, and the merchant in Liverpool, to whom

the ship was consigned, being his friend and corre|spondent, and a friend of Dr. Fothergill's, Mr. Lawrens proposed to recommend my collections and letters to his care.

THESE favourable circumstances thus co-opera|ting, after bidding adieu to my friends and liberal patrons in these parts, I embarked on board this vessel, and after a short and pleasant passage through the sound, arrived at Sunbury, from whence, after shipping my collections, I sat sail again for Charles|ton, South Carolina; where being arrived I spent the season in short excursions until next spring, and during this time of my recess I had liesure to plan my future travels, agreeable to Dr. Fothergill's instructions and the council and advice of Dr. Chal|mers of Charleston, with other gentlemen of that city, eminent for the promotion of science and en|couraging merit and industry.

IT was agreed that my future rout should be di|rected West and South-West, into the Cherokee country and the regions of the Muscogulges or Creeks.

Notes

• * 1.1

  I have made use of the terms alligator and crocodile indiscriminately for this 〈◊〉〈◊〉, alligator being the country name.
• * 1.2

  Convol. dissectus.
• * 1.3

  Cervus sylvaticus. The American deer.
• * 1.4

  Cuc••••bita peregrin••••
• * 1.5

  New-Smyrna is built on a high shelly bluff, on the West bank of the South branch of Musquito river, about ten miles above the capes of that ri|ver, which is about thirty miles North of Cape Canaveral, Lat. 28. I was there about ten years ago, when the surveyor run the lines or precincts of the colony, where there was neither habitation nor cleared field. It was then a famous Orange grove, the upper or South promontory of a ridge, nearly half a mile wide and stretching North about forty miles, to the head of the North branch of the Musquito, to where the Tomoko ri••••r unites with it, nearly parallel to the sea coast, and not above two miles across to the sea beach. All this ridge was then one entire Orange grove, with Live Oaks, Magnolias, Palms, Red Bays and others: I observed then, near where New-Smyrna now stands, a spacious Indian mount and avenue, which stood near the banks of the river; the avenue ran on a strait line back, through the groves, across the ridge, and terminated at tho verge of natural savannas and ponds.
• * 1.6

  Tantalus pictus.
• * 1.7

  Tantalus albus. Numinus albus. Cat.
• * 1.8

  Tantalus vers••color. Numinus ••uscus. Cat.
• * 1.9

  Tantalus loculator. 〈◊〉〈◊〉.
• * 1.10

  Vultur sacra.
• * 1.11

  Vultu aura.
• * 1.12

  Cyprinus coronarius.
• * 1.13

  Caprimulgus rusus called chuck-wills'-widow, from a fancied resem|blance of his note to these words: they inhabit the maritime parts of Carolina and Florida, and are more than twice the size of the night hawk or whip-poor-will.
• * 1.14

  Passiflora incarnata, called May-Apple.
• * 1.15

  Testudo naso cylindracea elongato, truncato.
• * 1.16

  Cueulus Caroliniensis.
• * 1.17

  Ockli-Waha 〈◊〉〈◊〉.
• * 1.18

  Alluding to his tail.
• * 1.19

  Grus p.
• * 1.20

  Trichechus manatus. Sea cow.
• * 1.21

  Cane meadows, so called by the inhabitants of Carolina, &c.
• * 1.22

  Zea.
• * 1.23

  M'Gee was the leader of a family of white people from Georgia, de|stined across the isthmus, to the Mobile river; they travelled on horse-back as far as this town, where they procured canoes of the Indians, continuing their travels, descending the river and coasting the main S W. but at night▪ when on shore hunting provisions, their camp was surprised and at|tacked by a predatory band of Indians, who slew M'Gee and the rest of the men and carried off the plunder and a woman to their towns.
• * 1.24

  It thundered, lightened and rained in a violent manner during these debates.
• * 1.25

  A large ancient Live Oak stood in the yard about fifty yards distance.
• * 1.26

  These people never kill the rattle snake or any other serpent, saying if they do so, the spirit of the killed snake will excite or influence his living kindred or relatives to revenge the injury or violence done to him when alive.
• * 1.27

  Magnolia grandislora, called by the inhabitants the Laurel.
• * 1.28

  Kite hawks These are characterised by having long sharp pointed wings, being of swift slight, sailing without flapping their wings, lean light bodies, and feeding out of their claws on the wing, as they gently sail round and round.
• * 1.29

  (1 2) Are generally supposed to be male and female of the same species (2) or the pied ricebird the male, and (1) or the yellow, the female.