Camden's Britannia newly translated into English, with large additions and improvements ; publish'd by Edmund Gibson ...

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Camden's Britannia newly translated into English, with large additions and improvements ; publish'd by Edmund Gibson ...
Author
Camden, William, 1551-1623.
Publication
London :: Printed by F. Collins, for A. Swalle ... and A. & J. Churchil ...,
1695.
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EAST-RIDING.

EAst-Riding,* 1.1 or the east part of York∣shire [a], where the Parisi* 1.2 are seated by Ptolemy, makes the second division of this County; lying east of York. The north and west sides of it are bounded by the winding course of the river Der∣went; the south by the aestuary of Humber; and the north by the German Ocean. That part of it towards the sea and the river Derwent is pretty fruitful; but the middle is nothing but a heap of mountains, call∣eda 1.3 Yorkeswold, which signifies Yorkshire hills. The ri∣ver Derventio, or as we call it Derwent, rises near the shore and runs towards the west, but then turns a∣gain towards the south, and passes by Aiton and Mal∣ton; which because they belong to the North-Riding of this County, I shall reserve for their proper pla∣ces. As soon as the river has enter'd this quarter, it runs near the remains of that old castle Montferrant,* 1.4 which belonged formerly to the Fossards, men of great honour and estates. But William Fossard of this family being in ward to the King, and committed to the guardianship of William le Grosse Earl of Albe∣marle, enraged the Earl so by debauching his sister (tho' he was then but very young) that in revenge he demolished this castle, and forced the noble young Gentleman to forsake his country. Yet after the death of the Earl he recovered his estate; and left an only daughter, who was married to R. de Tornham, by whom she had a daughter, afterwards married to Pe∣ter de Malo-lacu; whose posterity being enriched with this estate of the Fossards, became very famous Barons [b]. Not far from hence stands a place seat∣ed upon a bank of the river, called Kirkham, i.e. the place of the Church; for here stood a College of Ca∣nons, founded by Walter Espec, a very great man, whose daughter brought a vast estate by marriage to the family of the Rosses. Next, but somewhat lower upon the Derwent, there stood a city of the same name, which Antoninus calls Derventio,* 1.5 and tells us it was seven miles distant from York. The Notitia makes mention of a Captain over‖ 1.6 the Company, Derventienses, under the General of Britain, that lived here: and in the time of the Saxons it seems to have been the Royal Village, situated near the river Dore∣ventio (says Bede) where Eumer, that Assassin (as the same Author has it) pushed with his sword at Edwin King of Northumberland, and had run him through, if one of his retinue had not interpos'd, and sav'd his master's life with the loss of his own. Where this place is, I could never have discover'd, without the light I have received from that polite and accu∣rate scholar Robert Marshall. He shewed me, that at the distance from York I mention'd, there is a lit∣tle town seated upon the Derwent called Auldby, which signifies in Saxon, the old habitation; where some remains of antiquity are still extant: and upon the top of the hill towards the river, is to be seen the rubbish of an old castle: so that this cannot but be the Derventio. From hence the river flows through Stanford-bridge, which from a battel fought there is also called Battle-bridge* 1.7 [c]. For here Harald Haard∣read the Norwegian (who with a fleet of 200 sail had infested this Kingdom, and from his landing at Ri∣chal had marched thus far with great outrage and de∣vastation) was encountred by King Harold of Eng∣land: who in a fair battel here, slew him and a great part of his army, and took so much gold among the spoil, that twelve young men could hardly bear it up∣on their shoulders, as we are told by Adam Bremensis. This engagement was fought about nine days before the coming in of William the Conquerour; at which time the dissolute luxury of the English seems to have foretold the destruction of this Kingdom.b 1.8 But of this we have spoke already.

The Derwent (which as often as 'tis encreas'd with rains, is apt to overflow the banks, and lay all the neighbouring meadows a-float) passing from hence to Wreshil,* 1.9 a Castle neatly built and fortified by1 1.10 Thomas Percy Earl of Worcester; runs at last more swiftly under Babthorpe,* 1.11 which has given both a seat

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[illustration] map of East Riding, Yorkshire

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[illustration]

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[illustration]
THE EAST RIDING of YORKSHIRE by Robert Morden.

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and name to a famous family of Knights there; and from thence into the Ouse. A father and son, both of this family, (I must not forget to be serviceable to their memories, who have been serviceable to their King and Country) were slain in the battel of S. Albans, fighting for Henry 6. and lye buried there with this Epitaph.

Cum patre Radulpho Babthorpe jacet ecce Radulphus Filius, hoc duro marmore pressus humo: Henrici sexti dapifer, pater Armiger ejus, Mors satis id docuit, fidus uterque fuit. The two Ralph Babthorps, father and his son, Together lye interr'd beneath this stone. One Squire, one Sew'r to our sixth Henry was: Both dy'd i'th field, both in their master's cause.

Now the Derwent, with a larger stream, glides on near Howden,* 1.12 a market town, remarkable not for it's neatness or resort, but for giving name to the neigh∣bouring territory, which from it is called Howden∣shire; and not long since, for having a pretty Colle∣giate Church of five Prebendaries, to which a house of the Bishops of Durham is adjoyned, who have a vast estate hereabouts. Walter Skirlaw, one of them, who flourish'd about the year 1390. (as we find in the book of Durham) built a huge tall steeple to this Church, that in case of a sudden inundation, the inhabi∣tants might save themselves in it. Not far distant from hence is Metham,* 1.13 which gives a name and seat to the famous and ancient family of the Methams [d].

The Ouse grown more spacious, runs with a swift and violent stream into the Aestuary Abus,* 1.14 the name by which it is expressed in Ptolemy [e]; but the Saxons,* 1.15 and we at this day, call it Humber2 1.16, and from it all that part of the country on the other side was in general termed Nordan humbria. Both names seem to be derivatives from the British Aber, which signifies the mouth of a river, and was perhaps given to this by way of excellence, because the Urus or Ouse, with all those streams that fall into it, and ma∣ny other very considerable rivers, discharge them∣selves here. And it is, without question, the most spacious Aestuary, and the best stor'd with fish, of any in the Kingdom. At every tide, it flows as the sea does, and at ebb returns it's own waters with those borrowed from the Ocean, with a vast hurry and murmur, and not without great danger to those that then sail in it. Hence Necham:

Fluctibus aequoreis Naeutis suspectior Humber Dedignans urbes visere, rura colit. Humber, whom more than seas the Pilots fear, Scorning great towns, doth thro' the country steer.

The same Author, still following the British histo∣ry, as if the Humber deriv'd this name from a King of the Hunns, continues:

Hunnorum princeps ostendens terga Locrino, Submersus nomen contulit Humbris aquae. The Hunne's great Prince by Locrin's arms subdu'd, Here drown'd, gave name to Humber's mighty flood.
Another Poet says of the same river:
Dum fugit, obstat ei flumen, submergitur illic, Deque suo tribuit nomine nomen aquae. Here stopt in's flight by the prevailing stream, He fell, and to the waters left his name.

However, in Necham's time, there was no city seated upon this Aestuary; tho' before, and in after-ages, there flourished one or two in those places. In the Roman times, not far from its bank upon the lit∣tle river Foulnesse, where Wighton,* 1.17 a small town, well frequented with husbandmen, now stands; there seems to have stood Delgovitia;* 1.18 as is probable both from the likeness and the signification of the name, without drawing any other proofs from its distance from Derventio. For the word Delgwe in British, sig∣nifies the Statues or Images of the heathen Gods; and in a little village not far off, there stood an Idol-Temple,* 1.19 in very great glory even in the Saxon times, which from the heathen Gods in it was then called God-mundingham, and now in the same sense, Godmanham.* 1.20 Nor do I question, but here was some famous Oracle or other even in the British times; an age wherein weakness and ignorance expo∣sed the whole world to these superstitions.* 1.21 But after Paulinus had preach'd Christ to the Nor∣thumbrians, Coyfi, who had been a priest of these heathen Ceremonies, and was now converted to Christianity, first profaned this Temple, the house of im∣piety (as Bede tells us)* 1.22 by throwing a spear into it; nay destroyed and burnt it with all its† 1.23 hedges [f]. Somewhat more eastward, the river Hull runs into the Humber: the rise of it is near a village call'd Driffeild,* 1.24 remarkable for the monument of Alfred, the most learned King of the Northumbrians; and like∣wise for the many Barrows rais'd hereabouts. The same river posts on, running not far from Leckenfeld,* 1.25 a house of the Percies Earls of Northumberland; near which, at a place called Schorburg, is the habitation of a truly famous and ancient family, the Hothams; and at Garthum, not far from thence, the rubbish of an old castle, which belonged to P. de Malo-lacu or Mauley. The river-Hull begins now to approach near Beverley,* 1.26 in Saxon Beuer-lega, (which Bede seems to call Monasterium in Deirwaud, that is, the Monastery in the wood of the Deiri,) a town large and very populous. From it's name and situation, one would imagine it to be the Petuaria Parisiorum;* 1.27 tho' it pretends to nothing of greater antiquity, than that John sirnamed de Beverley, Archbishop of York, a man (as Bede represents him) that was both devout and learned, out of a pious aversion to this world, renounced his Bishoprick, and retired hither; where, about the year 721, he died.* 1.28 The memory of him has been so sacred among our Kings (particularly Athelstan, who honoured him as his Guardian-Saint after he had defeated the Danes,) that they have en∣dowed this place with many considerable immuni∣ties3 1.29. They granted it the privilege of a Sanctuary, that it should be an inviolable protection to all Bankrupts, and those suspected of Capital crimes.* 1.30 Within it stood a Chair made of stone, with this Inscription:

HAEC SEDES LAPIDEA Freedstooll
DICITVR, i. PACIS CATHEDRA, AD
QVAM REVS FVGIENDO PERVE∣NIENS
OMNIMODAM HABET
SECVRITATEM.

That is,

This Stone-seat is call'd Freedstooll, i.e. the Chair of Peace, to which what Criminal soever flies, shall have full protection.

By this means the Town grew up to a considera∣ble bulk; strangers throng'd thither daily, and the Towns-men drew a chanel from the river Hull* 1.31 for the conveyance of foreign commodities by boats and barges. The Magistrates of the Town were first, twelve Wardens, which were after that chang'd to Go∣vernours and Wardens. But at this day, by the favour of Queen Elizabeth, the Town has a Mayor and Go∣vernours [g]. More to the Eastward, flourish'd Meaux-Abbey,* 1.32 so denominated from one Gamell born at Meaux in France, who obtain'd it of William the Con∣querour to live in. Here William le Gross, Earl of Al∣bemarle, founded a Monastery for the Monks of the Cluniack Order, to atone for a vow he had made, whereby he was oblig'd to go to Jerusalem. Some∣what lower, stands Cottingham,* 1.33 a long Country-town, where are the ruins of an old Castle built (by King John's permission) by Robert Estotevill,* 1.34 descended from Robert Grundebeofe a Norman Baron, and a man

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of great note in those times; whose estate came by marriage to the Lords de Wake, and afterwards by a daughter of John de Wake to Edmund Earl of Kent, from whom descended Joan, wife to Edward that most warlike Prince of Wales, who defeated the French in so many Engagements. The river Hull about six miles from hence falls into the Humber. Just at its mouth, stands a Town call'd from it King∣ston upon Hull,* 1.35 but commonly Hull. The Town is of no great antiquity; for King Edward the first, whose royal virtues deservedly rank him among the greatest and best of Kings,* 1.36 having observ'd the advantagious situation of the place (which was first call'd Wik) had it in exchange from the Abbot de Meaux; and instead of the Vaccarii and Bercarii (that is, as I ap∣prehend it, Cribs for Cows and Sheep-folds) which he found there, he built the Town call'd Kingston, sig∣nifying the King's Town; and there (as the words of the Record are) he made a harbour and a free burgh, making the inhabitants of it free burgesses, and granting them many liberties. By degrees it has grown to that dignity, that for statley building, strong forts, rich fleets, resort of merchants, and plenty of all things, 'tis without dispute the most celebrated Town in these parts. All this increase is owing, partly to Michael de la Pole, who upon his advancement to the Earldom of Suffolk by King Richard the second, procur'd them their privileges, and partly to their trade of Iseland-fish dy'd and harden'd, term'd by them Stock-fish;* 1.37 which turns to great gain, and has strangely enrich'd the Town. Immediately upon this rise, they fortify'd the place with a brick wall and many towers, on that side where they are not defended by the river; and brought in such a quantity of stones for ballast,* 1.38 as was sufficient to pave all parts of the Town. As I have been inform'd by the Citizens, they were first govern'd by a Warden, then by Bailiffs, after that by a Mayor and Bailiffs; and at last they obtain'd from Hen¦ry the sixth, that they should be govern'd by a Mayor and Sheriff, and that the City should be a County incor∣porate of it self, as the Lawyers term it. Concerning the first Mayor of this City, it may not be tedious to relate this passage from the Register of the Abbey de Melsa or de Meaux, tho' the stile be barbarous. William de la Pole,* 1.39 Kt. was first a Merchant at Ravens-rod, skilful in the arts of trade, and inferiour to no English Merchant what∣soever. He afterwards living at Kingston upon Hull, was the first Mayor of that Town, and founded the Mona∣stery of St. Michael, which now belongs to the Carthusian Monks, near the said Kingston. His eldest son4 1.40 Michael de la Pole, Earl of Suffolk, caused the said Monastery to be inhabited by that Order. William de la Pole aforesaid lent King Edward many thousand pounds of gold, during his abode at Antwerp in Brabant. For this reason the King made him chief Baron of his Exchequer, gave him by Deed the Seigniory of Holderness, with many other Lands then belonging to the Crown, and made him a Baneret. If any one questions the truth of this,* 1.41 the Records of the Tower will, I hope, fully satisfie him; there it is ex∣presly, William de la Pole dilectus, valectus, & mercator noster. Now Valectus* 1.42 (that I may observe it once for all) was then an honourable title both in France and England; but afterwards coming to be meanly ap∣ply'd to servants, so that the Nobility disliked it, the title was changed, and he was call d Gentleman of the Bed chamber [h].

From Hull, a large promontory shoots out into the Sea, call'd by Ptolemy Ocellum,* 1.43 by us at this day Holderness.* 1.44 A certain Monk has call'd it Cava Deira, that is to say, the hollow Country of the Deiri, in the same sence that Coelosyria is so call'd, signifying hollow Sy∣ria [i]. The first place a man comes at on this wind∣ing shore is Headon,* 1.45 which formerly (if we'll be∣lieve Fame that always magnifies Truth) was a very considerable place by reason of merchants and ship∣ping [k] For my part I have faith enough to believe it, notwithstanding 'tis now so diminish'd, partly by reason of its being too near Hull, and partly because the Haven is block'd up and useless; that it has not the least shew of that grandeur it pretends to have had. Which may teach us, that the condition of Towns and Cities is every jot as unstable as the state and happiness of men. King John granted to Bald∣win Earl of Albemarle and Holderness, and to his wife Hawis, free Burgage here, so that the Burgesses might hold in free burgage by the same customs with York and* 1.46 Nichol. At present the Town begins to flourish again, and has some hopes of attaining to its former greatness. Some∣what farther in the same Promontory, there stands an ancient Town call'd Praetorium* 1.47 by Antoninus; but we now name it Patrington,* 1.48 as the Italians do Pe∣trovina from the Town Praetorium. That I am not mistaken here, the distance from Delgovitia, and the name still remaining, do both shew; which also does in some sort imply, that this is the Petuaria which goes corruptly in Copies of Ptolemy for Praetorium. But whether it took the name from the Praetorium, which was their Court of Justice, or from some large and stately edifice (for such also the Romans call'd Praetoria) does not appear [l]. The Inhabitants do still boast of their antiquity, and the former excel∣lence of their Haven; nor do they less glory in the pleasantness of the place, having a very fine prospect, on this side as it looks toward the Ocean, and on that, as it surveys the Humber and the shores about it, to∣gether with the green skirts of Lincolnshire. The Roman way from the Picts wall, which Antoninus the Emperour first trac'd out, ends here. So Ulpian tells us, that High-ways of that nature end at the Sea, at a River, or at a City. Somewhat lower stands Winsted,* 1.49 the Seat of the Hildeards, Knights: and a little higher Rosse is seated, which gives name, as it did heretofore a seat, to that famous race of Barons de Rosse:* 1.50 and upon the sea, Grimston-garth, where the Grimstons long flourish'd. From hence at no great distance stands Rise, formerly the House of those No∣blemen, call'd de Faulconberge. In the very tongue of this Promontory, where it draws most towards a point, and takes the name of Spurnhead,* 1.51 stands the little village Kellnsey, which shews plainly that this is the Ocellum in Ptolemy: for as Kellnsey* 1.52 comes from Ocellum, so without doubt this Ocellum is deriv'd from Y-kill, which signifies in British a Promontory, or a narrow slip of ground, as I have already said [m].

From Ocellum the shore gradually withdraws, and with a small bending runs northward by Overthorne and Witherensey, little Churches, call'd from the sisters that built them Sisters-kirks;* 1.53 and not much wide of Con∣stable-Burton,* 1.54 so nam'd from the Lords of it, who by marriages are ally'd to very honourable families, and flourish in great splendour at this day. Robert of this House (as we find it in Meaux-Abbey-book) was one of the Knights of the Earl of Albemarle, who being old and full of days, took upon him the Cross, and went with King Richard to the Holy Land. Then by Skipsey, which Drugo the first Lord of Holderness fortify'd with a Castle. Here the shore begins to shoot again into the Sea, and makes that Bay, call'd in Ptolemy 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉 Gabrantovicorum, which some Latin Transla∣tors render Portuosus sinus, others Salutaris.* 1.55 Neither of them express the sence of the Greek word better than that little town in the turn of it, call'd Suerby.* 1.56 For that which is safe and free from danger, is by the Britains and Gauls call'd Seur; as we also do in Eng∣lish, who probably derive it from the Britains. There's no reason therefore why we should question, but this was the veryc 1.57 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉 Gabrantovicorum,* 1.58 a people that liv'd in this neighbourhood [n] Near this is Brid∣lington, a town famous for John de Bridlington a Monkish Poet,d 1.59 whose rhyming prophecies, which are altogether ridiculous, I have seen [o]. Not far from hence, for a great way towards Drifield, there was a ditch (drawn by the Earls of Holderness to divide the Lands) which was call'd Earls-dike. But why this small People were call'd Gabrantovici, I dare not so much as guess, unless perhaps it was deriv'd from

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Goats which the Britains call'd Gaffran, whereof there are not greater numbers in any part of Britain than in this place. Nor is this derivation to be lookt up∣on as absurd, seeing the Aegira in Achaia has its name from Goats; Nebrodes in Sicily, from Deer; and Boeotia in Greece, from Oxen. The little Pro∣montory that by its bending makes this Bay, is com∣monly call'd Flamborough-head,* 1.60 but by Saxon Authors Fleam-burg, who write that Ida the Saxon (who first subdu'd these parts) arriv'd here. Some think it took its name from a Watch-tower to set out Lights, whereby Mariners might discern that Har∣bour. For the Britains still retain the provincial word Flam, and the Mariners paint this Creek with a flaming-head, in their Sea-Charts. Others are of opinion that this name came into England out of Angloen in Den∣mark, the ancient Seat of the Angli; for there is a town call'd Flemsburg, from which they think the English gave it that name; as the Gauls (according to Livy) nam'd Mediolanum in Italy from the town Mediolanum they had left in Gaul. For the little vil∣lage in this Promontory is call'd Flamborough,* 1.61 which gives original to another noble family of Constables, as they call them, which by some are deriv'd from the Lacies* 1.62 Constables of Chester [p]. Upon my en∣quiries in these parts, I heard nothing of those Ri∣vers (call'd Vipseis* 1.63) which Walter de Heminburgh tells us, flow every other year from unknown Springs, and with a great and rapid current run by this little Promontory to the Sea. However, take what William of Newborough (who was born there) has said of them: These famous waters commonly call'd Vipseis, spring from the earth at several sources, not incessantly, but every other year, and having made a pretty large current, through the lower grounds, run into the Sea; and when they are dry'd, 'tis a good sign. For the flowing of them, is truly said to forbode the misery of an approaching famine [q]. As the Sea winds it self back from hence, a thin slip of land (like a small tongue when 'tis thrust out) shoots into the Sea, such as the old English call'd File; from which the little village Filey takes its name. More inward stands Flixton, where a Hospital was built in the time of Athelstan for defending Travellers (as it is word for word in the* 1.64 Publick Records) from Wolves, that they should not be devoured by them. This shews us, that in those times Wolves* 1.65 infested this tract, which now are to be met with in no part of England, not so much as in the frontiers of Scotland; altho' they are very numerous in that Kingdom.

This small territory of Holderness was given by Wil∣liam the first to Drugo de Bruerer a Fleming,* 1.66 upon whom also he had bestow'd his niece in marriage; but she being poison'd by him, and he forc'd to fly for his life, was succeeded by Stephen the son of Odo, Lord of Albemarle in Normandy, descended from the family of the Earls of Champaigne, whom Willi∣am the first (who was his nephew by a half sister on the mother's side) is said to have made Earl of Albe∣marle; and his posterity retain'd that title in Eng∣land, notwithstanding Albemarle be a place in Nor∣mandy. He was succeeded by his son William, sir∣nam'd† 1.67 Crassus. His only daughter Avis was mar∣ried to three husbands successively; to William Mag∣navill Earl of Essex, to Baldwin de Beton, and to William Forts, or de Fortibus. By this last husband only she had issue, William, who left also a son Wil∣liam to succeed him. His only daughter Avelin, be∣ing married to Edmund‖ 1.68 Crouchback Earl of Lan∣caster, dy'd without children. And so (as it is said in Meaux-Abbey-book) for want of heirs, the Earldom of Albemarle and the Honour of Holderness were seized in∣to the King's hands. Yet in following ages, King Ri∣chard the second created Thomas de Woodstock his Uncle, and afterwards Edward Plantagenet, son to the Duke of York, Duke of Albemarle, in the life∣time of his father. Henry the fourth also made his son Thomas, Duke of Clarence and Earl of Albemarle; which title King Henry the sixth added afterwards as a farther honour to Richard Beauchamp Earl of War∣wick.

ADDITIONS to the East-riding of YORKSHIRE.

[a] NOW we come to the second Division, the East-Riding. Which Division by Ridings (to observe it by the way) is nothing but a corruption from the Saxon ÐriHing,* 1.69 which consisted of several Hundreds or Wapentakes. Nor was it peculiar to this County, but formerly common to most of the neighbouring ones; as appears by the* 1.70 Laws of Edward the Confes∣sor, and the* 1.71 Life of King Alfred.

[b] The first place we meet with is Mont-ferrant-Castle, which‖ 1.72 Leland tells us in his time was clearly defaced, so that bushes grew where it had formerly stood. Of the family de Malo Lacu (or as Leland calls them Mawley) there were eight successively en∣joy'd the estate, all Peters: but the last of these leaving only two daughters, the one was married to Bigot, and the other to Salwayne.

[c] However the name of Battle-bridge* 1.73 may be us'd for Stanford-bridge in Authors, a Traveller will hard∣ly meet with it among the Inhabitants of this Coun∣try. Our Author seems to have taken it from an In∣strument concerning the Translation of St. Oswin (since printed in the* 1.74 Monasticon Anglicanum) which speak∣ing of this place, adds, Nunc verò Pons belli dicitur, i.e. at present 'tis call'd Pons Belli, or Battle-bridge.

[d] Upon the Derwent lyes Howden* 1.75 (formerly Hovedene, as is plain from several Records in the time of Edward 2. and Edward 3. as also from† 1.76 Leland's calling the first Canon of the place John Hovedene) where the bowels of Walter Skirlaw Bishop of Dur∣ham were bury'd,‖ 1.77 as appear'd by the Inscription of a very fair stone varii marmoris, as my Author calls it. The same person had reason to build a high belfrey in order to secure them against inundations; for the several Commissions that have been issu'd out for repair of the banks thereabouts, argue the great danger they were in: and within these seven years, the Ebbe, by reason of great freshes coming down the Ouse, broke through the banks, and did considera∣ble damage both to Howden and the neighbouring parts. Here the Londoners keep a Mart every year, beginning about the fourteenth of September, and con∣tinue it about nine days; where they furnish by whole-sale the Country Trades-men with all sorts of Goods.

[e] Tho' the Abus* 1.78 and the Humber be generally lookt upon as one and the same, yet Ptolemy's 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉 seems to be the corrupt Greek reading of the old name Ouse, rather than sprung from the British Aber. 'Tis plain however by that expression, 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, i.e. the emptying of the river Abus, that he meant, the river had that name before ever it came to the Out-let.

[f] What our Author says of Coyfi throwing down the Fanum, Impietatis domicilium,* 1.79 does hardly seem to be cautiously or accurately enough exprest. For it does not appear that any cover'd Temples were ere∣cted for the service of those Pagan-Idols which the Saxons here worship'd. Polluit & destruxit eas, quas ip∣se sacraverat, aedes, says the Latin* 1.80 Bede, speaking of this Coyfi; and the Saxon-Paraphrase uses the word

Page 743-744

ƿigbed, or (as some Copies have it) ƿeopede ƿæs Hæ∣ƿenan gyldes, implying not a Temple, but an Altar, as is evident from Matth. v. 23. and xxiii. 18, 19, &c. No, they were only surrounded with a hedge to de∣fend their ditches from the annoyance of cattel; as is sufficiently intimated by another expression in the same Chapter, Mid Heora Hegum ƿe Hi ymbsette ƿæron, i.e. with the hedges wherewith they were sur∣rounded.

[g] But for Antiquities, Beverley* 1.81 is the most con∣siderable place hereabouts, call'd formerly Beverlac, quasi locus vel lacus Castrorum, à Castoribus quibus Hulla aqua vicina abundabat, says Leland* 1.82 from an old Anonymous Manuscript concerning the Anti∣quities of Beverolac or Beverley. Tho' our Author tells us it has nothing of greater Antiquity than John of Beverley, yet the same Manuscript informs us, it had a Church before that time, dedicated to S. John the Evangelist; which this Archbishop converted into a Chapel for his new-erected Monastery.

On the 13. of September, An. 1664. upon opening a grave they met with a vault of squar'd free-stone, 15 foot long, and 2 foot broad at the head, but at the feet a foot and a half broad. Within it, was a sheet of lead four foot long, and in that the ashes, six beads (whereof three crumbl'd to dust with a touch; of the three remaining, two were suppos'd to be Cor∣nelians,) with three great brass pins, and four large iron nails. Upon the sheet laid a leaden plate with this Inscription:

✚ ANNO AB INCARNATIONE DOMINI MCLXXXVIII. COMBVSTA FVIT HAEC EC∣CLESIA IN MENSE SEPTEMBRI, IN SE∣QVENTI NOCTE POST FESTVM SANCTI MATHAEI APOSTOLI: ET IN AN. MCXCVII. VI. IDVS MARTII FACTA FVIT INQVISITIO RELIQVIARVM BEATI JOHANNIS IN HOC LOCO, ET INVENTA SVNT HAEC OSSA IN ORIENTALI PARTE SEPVLCHRI ET HIC RECONDITA, ET PVLVIS CEMENTO MIX∣TVS IBIDEM INVENTUS EST ET RECON∣DITUS.

Cross over this, there lay a box of lead, about seven inhes long, six broad, and five high; wherein were several pieces of bones mix'd with a little dust, and yielding a sweet smell. All these things were care∣fully re-interr'd in the middle Alley of the body of the Minster, where they were taken up. Which circumstance does not by any means agree with what Bishop Godwin has left us about this Saint; namely, that he was bury'd in the Church porch. For tho' what is mention'd in the Inscription was only a Re-interrment upon the Inquisition made, yet it looks a little odd they should not lay the Reliques in the same place where they found them: unless one should solve it this way, that but part of the Church was then standing, and they might lay him there with a design to remove him when it should be re∣built, but afterwards either neglected or forgot it.

The Minster here is a very fair and neat structure; the roof is an arch of stone. In it there are several monuments of the Percies Earls of Northumberland, who have added a little Chapel to the Quire; in the window whereof are the pictures of several of that family drawn in the glass. At the upper-end of the Quire, on the right-side of the Altar-place, stands the Freed-stool (mention'd by our Author) made of one entire stone, and said to have been remov'd from Dunbar in Scotland; with a Well of water behind it. At the upper end of the body of the Church, next the Quire, hangs an ancient Table with the pictures of St. John (from whom the Church is nam'd) and of K. Athelstan the founder of it: and between them this Distich;

Als free make I thee, As heart can wish, or egh can see.

Hence the Inhabitants of Beverley pay no Toll or Custom in any port or town of England; to which immunity (I suppose) they owe in a great measure their riches and flourishing condition. For inded, one is surpris'd to find so large and handsome a town within six miles of Hull. In the body of the Church stands an ancient monument, which they call the Virgins tomb, because two Virgin-sisters lye buried there; who gave the town a piece of land into which any free-man may put three milch-kine from Lady-day to Michaelmas. At the lower end of the body of the Church stands a fair large Font of Agate-stone.

Near the Minster, on the south-side of it, is a place nam'd Hall-garth, wherein they keep a Court of Re∣cord call'd Provost's Court. In this, may be try'd Cau∣ses for any sum, arising within its Liberties which are very large (having about a hundred towns and parts of towns in Holderness and other places of the East-Riding belonging to it.) It is said to have also a pow∣er in Criminal matters; tho' at present that is not us'd.

But to come to the condition of the town. It is above a mile in length, being of late much improv'd in its buildings; and has pleasant springs running quite through it. It is more especially beautified with two stately Churches; and has a Free-school, that is improv'd by two Fellowships, six Scholarships, and three Exhibitions in S. John's College in Cam∣bridge, belonging to it; besides six Alms-houses, the largest whereof was built lately by the Executors of Michael Wharton Esquire; who by his last Will lft 1000 l. for that use. The Mayor and Aldermen (having sometimes been deceiv'd in their choice) admit none into their Alms-houses, but such as will give Bond to leave their effects to the poor when they dye: a good example to other places.

The principal trade of the town, is, making Malt, Oat-meal, and Tann'd-leather; but the poor people mostly support themselves by working of Bone-lace, which of late has met with particular encouragement, the children being maintain'd at school, to learn to read, and to work this sort of lace. The Cloath-trade was formerly follow'd in this town; but† 1.83 Le∣land tells us, that even in his time it was very much decay'd.

They have several Fairs; but one more especially remarkable, beginning about nine days before Ascen∣sion-day, and kept in a street leading to the Minster-garth call'd Londoner-street. For then the Londoners bring down their Wares, and furnish the Country-Tradesmen by whole-sale.

About a mile from Beverley to the east, in a pasture belonging to the town, is a kind of Spaw; tho' they say it cannot be judg'd by the taste whether or no it comes from any Mineral. Yet taken inwardly, it is a great dryer; and wash d in, dries scobutick scurf, and all sorts of scabs; and also, very much helps the King's Evil.

[h] At the mouth of the river Hull is Kingston,* 1.84 call'd in all writings of Concernment Kingston super Hull. The walls and town-ditch were made by leave from King Edward 2. but Richard 2. gave them the present haven, which now it's fear'd will shortly be warp'd up at the mouth, if speedy care be not taken about it. 'Tis a town very considerable for merchan∣dise (being the scale of trade to York, Leeds, Notting∣ham, Gainsborough, and several other places,) as also for importing goods from beyond sea. And for the better convenience of managing their trade, they have an Exchange for Merchants, built in 1621. and much beautify'd in 1673. Above that, is the Custom-house; and near these the Wool-house, made use of formerly, without all doubt, for the selling and weighing of wool, as well as lead; but now only for the latter, when 'tis to be sold or ship'd here. On the east-side of the river, is built a strong Citadel, begun in the year 1681. and including the Castle and south-blockhouse. It hath convenient apartments for lodging a good many souldiers, with distinct houses for the Officers; has also an engine for making salt-water fresh, and is well-furnish'd with Ordnance. But yet the strength of the town does not consist so much in it's walls or fortifications, as it's situation: for all the Country being a perfect level, by cutting the sea-banks they can let in the ••••ood, and lay it for five miles round under water. Which the Gover∣nour

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of the place, at the late Revolution, had de∣signed to do, if the then Prince of Orange had land∣ed there, as was once thought. For he had caus'd several Flood-gates to be made, and pitch'd upon certain places about the town and on the bank of Humber, for cutting.

The town hath two Churches, one call'd the High-Church, a very spacious and beautiful building; on the south-side of the Quire whereof is a place now al∣ter'd into a neat Library, consisting mostly of mo∣dern books. The other is the Low-Church, the stee∣ple whereof Henry 8. is said to have order'd to be pull'd down to the ground, because it spoil'd the pro∣spect of his house over against it, wherein he had his residence for some months, An. 1538. Near the High Church is the Free-school, first founded by John A••••••ck Bishop of Worcester, and then of Ely; and in the year 1583. built by Mr. William Gee; with the Merchants Hall over it. North-west of the said Church, is the Trinity-house, begun at first by a joint contribution of well-disposed persons, for the relief of distressed Sea-men and their wives. But afterward they got a Patent from the Crown with several pri∣vileges; by the advantage of which they maintain mny distressed Sea-men, with their widows, both a Hull, and other places members of the Port of Hull. The Government is by twelve elder brethren, with six Assistants: out of the twelve, by the major vote of them and of the 6 Assistants, and the younger brethren, are annually chose two Wardens; and two Stewards out of the younger brethren. These Go∣vernours have a power to determine matters in sea-affairs not contrary to Law, chiefly between Masters and Sea-men; and also in Tryals at law, in sea-affairs, their judgments are much regarded. But here take the accurate description of this place, as I had it from the curious and ingenious Mr. Ray, who actually view'd it.

The Trinity-house belongs to a Society of Merchants, and is endow'd with good revenues. There are maintained 30 poor Women called Sisters, each of whom hath a little chamber or cell to live in. The building consists of a chapel, two rows of chambers beneath stairs for the sisters, and two rooms above stairs; one, in which the brethren of the Society have their meetings; and another large one, wherein they make sails, with which the town drives a good trade. In the midst of this room hangs the effigies of a native of Groenland, with a loose skin-coat upon him, sitting in a small boat or Canoe cover'd with skins; and having his lower part under deck. For the boat is deck'd or cover'd above with the same whereof it is made, having only a round hole fitted to his body, through which he puts down his legs and lower parts into the boat. He had in his right-hand (as I then thought) a pair of wooden oars, whereby he rowed and mana∣ged his boat; and in his left, a dart, with which he strikes fishes. But it appearing by the Supplement to the North-East Voyages lately publish'd, that they have but one oar about six foot long, with a paddle six inches broad at either end, I am inclin'd to think, that the boat hanging so high, I might be mistaken. The same book has given us an account of their make; to which I refer you. This on his forehead had a bonnet like a trencher to fence his eyes from sun or water. Behind him lay a bladder or bag of skins, in which I supposed he bestowed the fish he caught. Some told us it was a bladder full of oyl, wherewith he allured the fish to him. This is the same individual Canoe that was taken in the year 1613. by Andrew Barkar, with all its fur∣niture and boat man. The Groenlander that was taken refused to eat, and died within three days af∣ter. I have since seen several of these boats in pub∣lick Town-houses and Cabinets of the Virtuosi. Here I cannot but reflect upon and admire the hardiness and audaciousness of these petty water-men, who dare venture out to sea single in such pitiful vessels as are not sufficient to support much more than the weight of one man in the water, and which if they happen to be over-turned, the rower must needs be lost. And a wonder it is to me, that they should keep themselves upright if the sea be never so little rough. 'Tis true, the dashing of the waves cannot do them much harm, because the Canoe is cover'd above, and the skin-coat they have upon them keeps off the water from getting in at the round hole, re∣ceiving and encompassing their body.

A little above the bridge (which consists of 14 arches, and goes over into Holderness) stands the Groenland-house, built in the year 1674. at the joint charge of several Merchants; but by reason of the bad success of that trade, 'tis now only employ'd for the laying up of corn and other merchandise. At a little distance from this, is Gods-house, which with the Chapel over against it to the north, in the late Civil wars was pull'd down, for preventing inconve∣niencies when the siege was against Hull. But now both of them are built again, and the house is en∣larg'd; and the Arms of the De la Poles, being found among the rubbish cut in stone, are now set over the door, with this Inscription: Deo & pauperibus posuit D. Michael de la Pole. A. D. 1384. The Chapel over against it is built on the old foundation, with this Inscription over the door; Hoc sacellum Deo. & paupe∣ribus posuit D. Mich. de la Pole An. Do. 1384. quod in∣gruente bello civili dirutum 1643. tandem auctius instaura∣tum fuit 1673. Ricardo Kitson S. T. B. Rectore domus Dei super Hull. Near this Chapel, to the east, is built a new Hospital for the better reception of the poor belonging to this house; the other being not large enough to contain all the poor, together with the Master and his family. This new one hath over the door; Deo & pauperibus posuit Michael de la Pole. Haec omnes reparata domus perduret in annos. W. Ainsworth, Rector, An. Dom. 1663.

Without the walls, westward of the town, stands the Water-house, which at first came from Julian-Well; it appearing by an Inquisition made in 3 Hen. 4. that drawing a new Sewer from thence to the town through the meadows and pastures of Anlabie, would be no damage to the King or any other person. But in the latter end of the said King's reign, upon a mo∣tion to supply the town from thence, it was consi∣der'd that part of the spring descending from the Priory of Haltemprise, it could not be done without licence from the Pope; and so the Grant thereof was seal'd to the town from Rome in the year 1412. un∣der the hands and seals of three Cardinals. After∣ward, the course of that spring altering, and running into the grounds of Sir John Barrington, the town was forc'd to compound with him.

The Mayor of this town hath two Maces; a large one for festival days, and for ordinary days a small one: besides, he hath two swords, the one given by King Richard 2. and the other, which is the larger, by King Henry 8. yet but one born before him at a time.

This town hath given the honourable title of Earl to Robert Pierpoint of Holme, Viscount Newark, crea∣ted July 25. 4 Car. 1. who was succeeded by Henry his son, created also Marquis of Dorchester, Mar. 25. 1645. during life only. The Earldom is at present enjoy'd by the same family, in the person of the right honourable Evelin Pierpoint.

[i] The neighbouring tract Holderness also, hath af∣forded the same title first to John Ramsey Viscount Hardington, created Dec. 30. 18 Jac. 1. who dying without issue, it was conferr'd Jan. 24. 1643. upon Pr. Rupert Count Palatine of the Rhine. At present the right honourable Coniers D'Anvers enjoys this title of E. of Holderness. The true ancient writing of the name is Hol-deir-nesse, as much as to say, the promontory of Hol-deire, so call'd to distinguish it from Deira-ƿald, now the Wolds. Tho' after all, the Country seems rather to have had this name of distinction given it from the river Hull which passes through it, than (as Holland both in Lincolnshire and beyond sea) from hol, cavus or hollow. The Seigniory of Hol∣derness belongs to the right honourable Robert Vis∣count Dunbar. The town of Hedon finds him a pri∣son for those taken in the Liberty of Holderness, till they can be sent to the Castle of York. The same town finds him a Hall, wherein he holds a Court call'd Wapentak-Court, for tryal of Actions under forty shillings.

Page 747-748

[k] What our Author has told us from common Fame concerning the flourishing condition of Headon,* 1.85 may be confirm'd from the remains and marks of two Churches (besides that one they have) which must argue its former populousness, and by conse∣quence a flourishing trade. In St. Austin's, the pre∣sent Church,* 1.86 are the pictures of a King and a Bi∣shop, with this Inscription,

Als free make I thee, As heart may think or eigh see.
The old Haven nigh the town being grown up, there is a new cut made on the South-east, which helps to scowre that part of the Haven now left; but with∣out any hopes of rendring it so useful as formerly it was. In the year 1656. a great part of the town was consum'd with fire; and about two years ago seve∣ral houses in the market-place suffer'd the same fate: but now the greatest part is rebuilt, and the town thereby render'd much more beautiful. Of late years they have grown in wealth more than formerly; which is suppos'd to be owing principally to the se∣veral Fairs procur'd for them. The Inhabitants have a tradition that the Danes destroy'd this town; and there is a Close belonging to it, call'd Danes-field to this day.

[l] To the two acceptations our Author has gi∣ven us of Praetorium,* 1.87 may be added a third; and that too the most probable reason why Antoninus should call our Patrington, Praetorium. I mean, the General's tent in their ordinary encampments, in which snse the most learned† 1.88 Lipsius has shown it to be us'd. And this seems much more agreeable to the Roman affairs in Britain, than either of the other two significa∣tions.

[m] Upon the Spurn-head* 1.89 (the utmost part of the Promontory) call'd by some Conny-hill, is a Light-house built in the year 1677. by one Mr. Justinian Angel of London, who had a Patent for it from Charles the second. But the Lord Dunbar claiming the ground, there arose a difference between them, which is not yet ended. The Lights however are kept up; and in the year 1684. a Day-mark was also erected, being a Beacon with a barrel on the top of it.

[n] In these parts of Holderness, there have been several towns swallow'd up by the Humber and the Sea. Frismerk* 1.90 particularly, which upon the grant of a tenth and fifteenth to the King about the 18th of Edw. 3. represented to the King and Parliament how much they had suffer'd by the Sea and River breaking in upon them, and petition'd to have a proportionable deduction made in the Rating. Whereupon, Com∣missioners were appointed to make enquiry concern∣ing it; who certify'd that a third part of their lands were totally destroy'd by the tides: so the King is∣sued out his Precept to the Assessors and Collectors to supersede, &c. and they were assess'd according to their moveables at 1 l. 6 s. 8 d. for each of the two years. He also sent his Mandate to the Barons of the Exchequer, commanding that neither then, nor on the like occasion for the future, they should be rated at any greater summ. The like Mandate was di∣rected to the Collectors of Wooll in the East riding, for a proportionable abatement to the Inhabitants of the town of Frismerk.

In the sixteenth of Edward the third, among other Towns in Holderness bordering on the Sea and Hum∣ber, mention is made of Tharlethorp, Redmayr, Penys∣thorp; but now not one of them is to be heard of. At what time precisely they were lost, does not appear; but about the 30th of Edw. 3. the tides in the rivers of Humber and Hull flow'd higher by four foot than usual; so tis likely they might then be overflow'd. Probably also about the same time, Ravensere (which seems to be the same with Mr. Camden's Ravenspur, and Ravensburg) was much damnify'd, and not long after totally lost. The Inhabitants hereabouts talk of two other towns, Upsall and Potterfleet, which are quite destroy'd. About 38 Edw. 3. the Lands and Meadows between Sudcote-steel and Hull were much overflow'd; when probably Ravensere was entirely lost, and the town of Dripool, with the adjoyning grounds, very much damnify'd: at which town 'tis said they of Ravensere design'd to settle, but were forc'd to go to Hull. Likewise before, about the 30th of Edw. 3. the High-way betwixt Anlaby and Hull, as also the Grounds and Pastures lying between both these pla∣ces and Hessel, were all drown'd; but the said King by his Letters Patents order'd several persons to see that an old ditch thereabouts should be dress'd, and a new one (24 foot broad) should be made, and the way rais'd higher; which was accordingly effect∣ed.

[o] As little as our Authour values John de Brid∣lington* 1.91 (who dyd A. D. 1379.) he has to this day, in all that neighbourhood, the repute of a Saint. And very justly too, if all the mighty things be true of him which Nicholas Harpsfield in his Ecclesiastical History has related with gravity and good assurance.* 1.92 In the 16th of Car. 2. Richard Boyl Baron Clifford, &c. was created Earl of Bridlington or Burlington.

A little overward from Hornsey is the Marr,* 1.93 a wa∣ter pretty deep and always fresh, about a mile and a half long, and half a mile broad, well-stor'd with the best Pikes, Perches, and Eels. Whether it has been caus'd at first by some Earth-quake with an over∣flow that might follow it, is hard to say; but they tell you that there have been old trees seen floating upon it, and decay'd nuts found on the shore. And 'tis certain, that in the Sea-cliffs against Hornsey both have been met with; at present also there is (or at least was very lately) a vein of wood that looks as black as if it had been burnt; which possibly is oc∣casion'd by the saltness of the Sea-water, both pre∣serving wood better than fresh-water, and also by its saltness (and consequently greater heat) helping to turn it black.

[p] Upon the Coast of the German Ocean is Hornsey,* 1.94 the Church-steeple whereof, being a high broach or spire, is a notable Sea-mark; tho' now it is much fal'n to ruin, and the Inhabitants are scarce able to repair it. Not many years ago, there was a small street adjoyning to the Sea, call'd Hornsey-beck, which is now washt away except one or two houses; and about Skipsie,* 1.95 a few miles north of Hornsey, they have a tradition of a town call'd Hide being devour'd by the Sea.

More inward into the Land is Rudston,* 1.96 where in the Church-yard is a kind of Pyramidal-stone of great height. Whether the name of the town may not have some relation to it, can be known only from the private History of the place; but if the stone bear any resemblance with a Cross, Rod in Saxon im∣plies so much.

[q] Concerning the Vipseys* 1.97 hereabouts, take what the ingenious Mr. Ray was pleas'd to commu∣nicate, among other things relating to these parts.

These Vipseys, or suddain eruptions of water, whe∣ther the word in Newbrigensis were by mistake of the Scribe, and change of a letter, put in stead of Gipseys; or whether Vipseys were the original name, and in process of time chang'd into Gipseys, I know not; certain it is they are at this day call'd Gipseys: of which Dr. Wittey in his Scarborough Spaw writes, that they break out in the wolds or downs of this Country, after great rains, and jet and spout up water to a grea height. Neither are these erupti∣ons of Springs proper and peculiar to the wolds of this Country, but common to others also, as Dr. Childrey in his Britannica Baconica witnesseth in these words. Sometimes there breaks out water in the manner of a suddain Land-flood out of certain stones that are like rocks standing aloft in open fields, near the rising of the river Kinet in Kent; which is reputed by the common people a fore-runner of dearth: and Newbrigensis saith the like of the Gipseys, that the flowing of them is said infallibly to por∣tend a future famine. So we see these Gipseys do not come at set times, every other year, as Newbrigensis would make us believe, but only after great gluts of rain, and lasting wet weather; and never happen but in wet years: and moreover that they always portend a dearth, not as a Divine in∣dication or forewarning, but by a natural signifi∣cancy:

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[illustration] map of North Riding, Yorkshire

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[illustration]

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[illustration]
THE NORTH RIDING OF YORKSHIRE by Robt Morden.

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Page 749-750

it being well known that cold and wet Springs and Summers mar the corn, and do al∣most constantly and infallibly induce a dearth thereof in England; which a drought, how lasting soever it be, hath never in my memory been ob∣served to do.

If any be so curious as to enquire how a glut of rain comes to cause such a springing up of waters? I answer, that there are hereabout in the wolds, and in like places where such jets happen, great subterraneous basins or receptacles of water, which have, issuing out from their bottoms, or near them, some narrow small veins or chanels reaching up to the surface of the earth. So the water in the ba∣sin lying much higher than the place of eruption by its weight forces that in the veins upward, and makes it spout up to a great height, as is evidently seen in the Lacus Lugeus, or Zirchnitzer-Sea: in which this spouting up of water happens every year after the rains are fall'n in the Autumn. These suddain and intermittent fountains or eruptions of water have a particular name in Kent as well as Yorkshire, being there call'd Nailbourns.

From Richard de Beauchamp (the last Earl of Al∣bemarle* 1.98 mention'd by our Authour) that title was va∣cant, till, upon the Restoration of King Charles the second, George Monk (who had been chiefly instru∣mental in it) was advanc'd to the Honours of Baron Monk of Potheridge, Beauchamp, and Tcyes; as also Earl of Torrington and Duke of Albemarle, July 7. 12 Car. 2. Who departing this Life in 1669. was suc∣ceeded in his Estate and Titles by Christopher his son and heir.

Notes

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