The French cook.: Prescribing the way of making ready of all sorts of meats, fish and flesh, with the proper sauces, either to procure appetite, or to advance the power of digestion. Also the preparation of all herbs and fruits, so as their naturall crudities are by art opposed; with the whole skil of pastry-work. Together with a treatise of conserves, both dry and liquid, a la mode de France. With an alphabeticall table explaining the hard words, and other usefull tables. / Written in French by Monsieur De La Varenne, clerk of the kitchin to the Lord Marquesse of Uxelles, and now Englished by I.D.G.

About this Item

Title
The French cook.: Prescribing the way of making ready of all sorts of meats, fish and flesh, with the proper sauces, either to procure appetite, or to advance the power of digestion. Also the preparation of all herbs and fruits, so as their naturall crudities are by art opposed; with the whole skil of pastry-work. Together with a treatise of conserves, both dry and liquid, a la mode de France. With an alphabeticall table explaining the hard words, and other usefull tables. / Written in French by Monsieur De La Varenne, clerk of the kitchin to the Lord Marquesse of Uxelles, and now Englished by I.D.G.
Author
La Varenne, François Pierre de, 1618-1678.
Publication
London :: Printed for Charls Adams, and are to be sold at his shop, at the sign of the Talbot neere St. Dunstans Church in Fleetstreet,
1653.
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Subject terms
Cookery
Cookery, French
Cite this Item
"The French cook.: Prescribing the way of making ready of all sorts of meats, fish and flesh, with the proper sauces, either to procure appetite, or to advance the power of digestion. Also the preparation of all herbs and fruits, so as their naturall crudities are by art opposed; with the whole skil of pastry-work. Together with a treatise of conserves, both dry and liquid, a la mode de France. With an alphabeticall table explaining the hard words, and other usefull tables. / Written in French by Monsieur De La Varenne, clerk of the kitchin to the Lord Marquesse of Uxelles, and now Englished by I.D.G." In the digital collection Early English Books Online 2. https://name.umdl.umich.edu/A88798.0001.001. University of Michigan Library Digital Collections. Accessed May 4, 2024.

Pages

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A Table of the Intercourses (or Middle-courses) for the Flesh daies.
  • FEet and ears of Pork 1
  • Small vails of stag 2
  • Venison pasty 3
  • Slice of pasty 4
  • Pasty of Gammon of bacon 5
  • Trouffles with ragoust 6
  • Dry trouffles 7
  • Trouffles after the naturall 8
  • Omelets of Purtenances, beatilles. 9
  • Sweet breads of Veale fryed. 10
  • Sweetbreads sticked 11
  • Sweetbreads with ragoust 12
  • Liver of Roebuck 13
  • Liver of Roebuck in omelet. 14
  • Ʋdder of Roebuck 15
  • Cows udder 16
  • Colliflowers 17
  • Cream of Pistaches 18
  • Gammon with ragoust 19
  • Gammon rosted 20
  • Gammon in slices 21
  • Thrush 22
  • Pickled Pullets 23
  • Purtnances, Abatis of Lamb 24
  • Larks with ragoust 25
  • Gelee 26
  • Gelee of Harts horn 27
  • Green gelee 28
  • Red gelee 29

Page [unnumbered]

  • Yellow gelee 30
  • Gelee of colour of Violets 31
  • Blew gelee 32
  • White meat 33
  • Salát of Lemon 34
  • Hash of Partridges 35
  • Rissoles fried 36
  • Rissoles puft 37
  • Fritters of Marrow 38
  • Fritters of Apples 39
  • Fritters of Artichoaks 40
  • Pets de putain (the farts of a Whore 41
  • Paste spunne 42
  • Lemon paste 43
  • Almond paste 44
  • Paste of Pistaches 45
  • Ramequin of Kidneys 46
  • Ramequin of flesh 47
  • Ramequin of cheese 48
  • Ramequin of soot 49
  • Ramequin of onion 50
  • Ramequin of garlick 51
  • Ortrlans 52
  • Neats tongue with ragoust 53
  • Tongue of pork with ragoust 54
  • Tongue of pork perfumed 55
  • Tongue of pork boyled with ragoust 56
  • Neats tongue 57
  • Young Pidgeons 58
  • Fat liver 59
  • Fat liver on the gridiron 60
  • Fat liver baked in the ashes 61

Page [unnumbered]

  • Fat liver fried into fritters 62
  • Purtenances 63
  • Tourte of Franchipanne 64
  • Nulle 65
  • Nulle with Amber 66
  • Green Nulle 67
  • Fricasles fried Artichocks 68
  • Fryed Artichocks 69
  • Artichocks with Poivrades 70
  • Artichocks bottoms 71
  • Mushrums 72
  • Mushrums farced 73
  • Mushrums fried 74
  • Mushrums after the Olivier 75
  • Omelet of gammon 76
  • Tortoise 77
  • Tourte of Pistaches 78
  • Eggs after the Portingals way 79
  • Eggs minions (or delicate) 80
  • Eggs spun 81
  • Eggs after la Varennes way 82
  • Eggs of snow 83
  • Eggs after the Huguenots way 84
  • Cardons of Spain 85
  • Sparagus with white sauce 86
  • Sparagus with ragoust 87
  • Sparagus with cream 88
  • Tongue of mutton with ragoust 89
  • Tongue of mutton sticked 90
  • Tongue of mutton on the gridiron 91
  • Salat of Pomgranate 92
  • Head of Wildboare 93

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  • Slice of head of wildboare 94
  • Slice of head with ragoust 95
  • Green pease 96
  • Rams-stones 97
  • Falats of beef 98
  • Arbolade (tensie) 99
  • Young Pidgeons 100
  • Fieldfares 101
  • Young Patridges 102
5. Discourse of the Entre-mets or Intercourse.
1. Ears, and feet of pork.

AFter they are well sod, passe them in the panne with butter or melted lard, and little onion, and season them well. Stove them in a little pot with a little broth, and when the sauce is well thickned, put to it a drop of vinegar with some mustard, if the season be of it, and serve.

2. Small purtenances of Stag.

After they are well dressed, seeth them in a pot, and when they are well sod, stove them with wine, next passe them in the panne with some lard, all being well seasoned; then stove them again between two dishes with a little

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onion, and good broth, and when the sauce is very short, serve.

3. Venison pasty.

If the flesh is hard, beat it, take off the skinnes of the top, and lard it with great lard, seasoned with salt, peper, vinegar, and beaten cloves. If it is for to keep, make your paste with Rye-meal, without butter, salt, and pe∣per; bake your pye for the space of three houres and an half, after it is baked, stop with paste the hole which you have left for to give it vent, and serve into slices.

The manner is to seek out the side, where the lard is most seen, and being cut very thin to serve it.

4. Pasty of gammon.

Unsalt it well, and when it is unsalted e∣nough, boyl it a little, and take off the skin round about, then put it in brown paste as Venison, and season it with peper, clove, and parsley; you may also lard it as venison; bake it proportionably to its bigness; if it is thick, five houtes; if it is lesse, lesse time will serve. After it is cold, serve it in slices.

5. Trouffles with ragoust.

Peele them very neatly, so that no earth may remain on them, cut them very thinne, and fry them with a little lard, or with but∣ter, and a little parsley minced, and a little broth; after they are well seasoned, stove them, so that the sauce bee little thick∣ned, and serve them on a plate garnished

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with pomegranat and lemon, if you have any, with flowres and leaves.

6. Dry trouffles.

Wash them well in Wine, seeth them with thick or gross wine, a little vinegar, salt, and peper in abundance; after they are well sod, let them rest in their broth, that they may take salt, then serve them in a napkin foulded or no.

7. Trouffles after the natural.

After they are well washed with wine, seeth them with salt and peper, and when they are well sod, serve them in a folded napkin, or on a plate garnished with flowers.

8. Omelets of beatilles.

Take your beatilles, which are, combes, stones, and the wings of young pidgeons, seeth them well, and after they are sod, and seasoned, drain them; take some eggs, where∣of you shall take out more than half of the whites, beat them, and when they are well beaten, put into them your beatils very clean; then take some lard, and cut it into peeces, passe it in the panne, and with your melted lard, or even with the peeces if you will, make your Omelet very thick, and not too much fryed, and serve.

9. Sweetbreads.

Let them not be too old, steep them in wa∣ter, and whiten them well, and dry them; cut them into slices, and season them with salt, flowre them, and fry them with fresh seam, or

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melted lard, so that they be very yellow and dry, put to it the juice of an orange or lemon, and serve them readily.

10. Sweetbreads stuck.

Take the fairest you can get, and best sha∣ped, whiten them in cold water, stick them, and put them on a prick, rost them very neat∣ly, and after they are rosted, serve them with the juice of a lemon upon them.

11. Sweetbreads with ragoust.

After they are whitened, cut them into sli∣ces, and passe them in the panne, or whole, if you will, with lard, and well seasoned with parsley, chibol whole, mushrums, and trouf∣fles, and after they are well stoved with good broth, and the sauce being short and well thickned, serve.

12. Liver of Roebuck.

As it comes warm out of the body of the Roebuck, cut it into small slices, passe it in the panne with lard, take out the mammocks, fry it well, and season it with a little parsley, and a whole chibol; stove it with little broth, then serve with the sauce well thick∣ned.

13. Liver of Roebuck in Omelet.

After it is taken out of the body of the beast, mince it very small, and make your Omelet of it with lard, and let it not be too much fryed, but let it also be enough, and serve.

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14. Ʋadder of Roebuck.

After you have whitened it well in water, cut it into round slices, and fry it with juice of lemon, or seeth it with some ragoust. After it is fryed, or sod, mince it very small, and make an Omelet of it with lard, as that of the beatils above written, then serve with the juice of lemon.

15. Cows Ʋdder.

Seeth it well, and when it is well sodden, cut it into slices, and garnish your entrees with it, or passe it in the panne with fine herbs, and chiboll whole; season all well, and stove it with the best of your broths; so that it be of a high taste, and the sauce well thick∣ned, then serve.

16. Coliflowers.

After they are well clensed, seeth them with salt, and a peece of fat or of butter; af∣ter they are sod, peal them, and put them with very fresh butter, one drop of vinegar, and a little nutmegge, for garnish about the dish. If you will, serve them alone, doe them alike, and when you are ready to serve, make a sauce with good fresh butter, one chibol, salt, vinegar, nutmegge, and let the sauce be well thickned: You may put in it some yolkes of egges; then garnish your plate warme, and put your sauce over it, and serve.

17. Creame of Pistaches.

Take one handfull of Pistaches stamped,

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and a quart of milk, boyl it with an imple∣ment of meal, which you shall mixe with it; when it is almost sod, allay six yolkes of egs with your Pistaches, and a little butter very new, put all in a panne with store of sugar, and a little salt. If you will, you may put in it Musk or Amber also, with much sugar, but very little Musk; beat all well together, and serve garnished with flowres.

18. Gammon with ragoust.

Sod or not, cut it into very thinne slices, then put them in the panne with very little wine, then stove them with a little peper, few chippings of bread, and very small, and juice of lemon, then serve.

19. Gammon rosted.

Cut it into slices, and steep it into a little broth, and a drop of vinegar; make it luke∣warm, then take it out, and put crummes of bread upon and under it; rost it well, and after the sauce hath boyled a very little, put it under it; then serve well garnisht with flowers or leaves.

20. Gammon in slices.

After it is well sod, cut it fittingly, and very thinne, then serve.

21. Thrushes.

Dresse them neatly, cut off the wings, the legs and the neck, and draw them, flat them a little, then flowre them, and fry them with lard, then stove them with broth well season∣ed, and a small bundle of herbs; when they

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are enough, and the sauce well thickned, serve them with the juice of lemon on them, and garnish about with a whole lemon sli∣ced.

22. Pickled pullets.

After they are well dressed, cleave them in two, if they are small, break their bones, and set them a pickling with vinegar, salt, peper, chibol, and lemon peele; let them steep therein, till you have occasion to use them, and then set them a draining, flowre them, and frie them in fresh seame or lard; after they are fryed, stove them a very little with their pickle, then serve with a short sauce.

23. Abbatis of Lamb with ragoust.

Take the feet, the ears and the tongue, passe them in the panne with butter or lard, a chibol, and some parsley, then stove them with good broth, when they are almost e∣nough, put in it some minced capers, broken sparagus, the juice of mushrums or trouffles, and season all well; serve neatly with a sauce well thickned with what thickning you will, and a garnishing of leaves and flowers, and above all, let your Abbatis be very white.

24. Larks with ragoust.

After they are well pulled, draw them, flat them, flowre and passe them in the pan with butter or lard, then stove them with good broth, a bundle of herbs, and a few minced ca∣pers, all well seasoned; after they are enough, and the sauce well thickned with what thick∣ning

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you will, serve with pistaches, or pom∣granate, and slices of lemon.

25. Gelee.

For to make Gelee, take a Cock, take off the skinne; take also a legge or knuckle of Veale, and the four feet, break and whiten them, then put them into a new earthen pan and seeth them for the space of three houres and a half; and when all is almost sod, put in it some white wine very clear; when you have put it in, strain your meat through a napkin; take your broth, and put it in a pan or pipkin on the fire; when it is ready to boyl, put in it five quarterns of sugar, and when it boyles, powre into it the juice of six lemons, and the whites of a douzen of very new layd eggs; after all hath boyled, put it into a very clear strainer, and mixe in it what colour you will, musk it, and serve.

26. Gelee of Harts horn.

Take Harts horn rasped; for to make three dishes of Gelee, you must take two pounds of Harts horn, seeth it with white wine two houres, so that after it is boyled, there may remain to make up your three dishes with; strain it well through a napkin, and then put it in a panne with one pound of sugar, and the juice of six lemons; when it is ready to boyle, put in it the whites of a douzen of new layd eggs, and as soon as you have put them in, powre all into the strainer, and set it up in a coole place; serve it natural, and gar∣nish

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it with pomegranates and lemon slices.

27. Green Gelee.

Take your ordinary Gelee, as it is above described, and take some green colour, which you shall mixe with your Gelee, then serve.

28. Red Gelee.

As your Gelee comes out of the strainer, steep it with very red Beets, well sod, and ras∣ped, strain all together through a linnen cloth, and set it a cooling, then serve, and garnish with other colour.

In the like manner you may make Gelee yellow, violet, and blew.

29. White meat.

Take the thickest of your Gelee, make it lukewarm with Almonds well stamped; strain them together through a napkin, and mixe a drop of milk with it, if it is not white e∣nough; after it is cold, serve, and garnish with other colour.

30. Sallat of Lemon.

Take Lemons, what quantity you will, peele them, and cut them into very thinne slices, put them with sugar, orange, and pomegranat flowers, then serve neatly.

31. Achis of Partridges.

After your Partridges are rosted, take up the brawn, mince it very small, allay it with good broth, and season it; then stove it with a chibol, and when you will serve, adde to it the yolk of an egge, and the juice of a le∣mon, and garnish it with what you will, as

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Pistaches, Pomegranate, and Lemon sliced, then serve.

32. Rissoles fryed.

Take the brawn of Partridges, or of other meat, mince it very small, and season it well; then make your sheet of paste very thinne, and dresse up your Rissoles with it, which you shall fry with fresh seam or melted lard.

33. Rissoles puffed.

They are made the same way, but that the meat of them must be a little fatter; after they are well seasoned, fry them neatly, and serve.

You may also make Rissoles in the same manner with any other kind of meat; serve them with sugar, and sweet waters on them.

34. Fritters of Marrow.

Before the specifying the severall kinds of Fritters, it is fitting first to give here a gene∣rall modell of them.

Take some Cheese, stamp it well in a mor∣tar, or in a dish, and if it is very hard, put a little milk with it, then some flowre and egs proportionably; season all with salt, and pass it with fresh seame, or refined butter for the lean dayes; serve with abundance of sugar, and a little orange, flower water, or rosewa∣ter on it.

If you will make Fritters of Marrow of Beef, take the biggest peeces of Marrow you have; after they are steeped, cut them into slices, fit them in your paste, fry them, and

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serve in the like manner.

Apple Fritters are done the same way.

35. Fritters of Artichocks.

Take the bottoms of Artichocks, and seeth them half, and after you have taken out the choke, cut them into slices, make a prepa∣ration with flowre and eggs, some salt, and a little milk, then put your Artichocks in it, and when your fresh seame is hot, put them into it, one slice after another; fry them wel, and serve.

36. Pets de putain.

Make your Fritters paste stronger than or∣dinary, by the augmentation of flowre and egs, then draw them very small or slender, and when they are fryed, serve them warm with sugar and sweet water.

37. Paste spunne.

Take Cheese, and bray it well; take also as much flowre, and a few eggs, all seasoned, seeth it in a Pipkin, as pappe well sod, that is to say, something firm, and pass or strain it through a passing or straining pan, upon some fat paper; after it is sod, spinne or draw the paste in what sort you will, then fry it, and serve it pyramid-wise with sugar and sweet waters.

38. Lemon paste.

It is made the same way, but that you mix Lemon with it, you must serve it as abovesaid, well garnisht with flowers.

The Almond paste, and the paste of Pi∣staches

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are made the same way.

39. Ramequin of kidney.

Take out the Kidney of a Loyn of Veale rosted, mince it with parsley or garlick, and the yolk of an egge, then spread your imple∣ments well seasoned upon bread; which you shall tost in the pan, or on the gridiron, and shall serve all dry; you may put sugar on it if you will.

You may make tosts of Kidney of Veal al∣most the same way, but that you must put to it neither parsley nor onion; but the Kidney being well seasoned, you spread it on your tostes, which you shall also cause to take a colour in the panne before the fire; and when you serve, you may sugar them, and e∣ven mixe some sugar in the implements if you will.

40. Ramequin of flesh.

Take what meat you will mince it very small, and after it is minced, allay it with an egge, and season it as it ought, rost them in the panne, and serve with the juice of a Lemon.

41. Ramequin of Cheese.

Take some Cheese, melt it with some but∣ter, on onion whole, or stamped, salt and pe∣per in abundance, spread all upon bread, pass the fire shovell over it red hot, and serve it warme.

42. Ramequin of soot of chimney.

After your bread is passed in the pan with

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butter or oyl, powder it with soot, with salt, and much peper over it, and serve it warm.

43. Ramequin of Onion.

Take your Onions, and stamp them in a mortar, with salt and much peper; you may put to it some Anchovis, well melted with a little butter, your onions being upon the bread fryed in oyle or butter, pass the fire-shovel red hot over it, and serve.

The Ramequin of Garlick is done the same way.

44. Ortolans with ragoust.

Dresse them, and pass them in the panne with butter, or melted lard; after they are fryed, stove them in a small pot with a little broth, and season them well; for to allay the sauce, mixe with it sweetbreads, the juice of meat, and mushrums, and when all is well sod, serve garnisht with Pistaches and Pomegranate.

45. Tongue of pork with ragoust.

After it is salted and sod, cut it very thin, and stove it with little broth, then passe it in the panne with melted lard, onion stamped, and one drop of Vinegar; after this serve with the juice of a Lemon, and garnish with Capers, and with all what you have. Mixe with it in the season verjuice or gooseberries.

46. Tongue of pork perfumed.

After it is sod, serve it dry, and garnish with what you will, be it flowers or other thing. You may open it in the midst.

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47. Tongue of pork boiled with ragoust.

Seeth it half salted, then broyl it; make for it also such sauce as you will, so that it be well thickned, and well seasoned, then serve.

You may stick it with lard, and rost it on the spit, basting it with a pickle, which you shall make under it well seasoned, and with such, quantity of salt as you shall judge fit∣ting; when it is rosted, serve.

48. Neats tongue.

Seeth it salted, with water, and towards the end put in some wine; after it is sod, peele it, and when you are ready to serve, cut it in∣to round slices, or cleave it, then serve.

49. Young Pidgeons.

To put them with ragoust, take them as they come from under the mother, kill them, and scald them, then after they are dressed, whitened and flowred, passe them in the pan, and then stove them in a pot with good broth, well seasoned, and a bundle of herbs; let them be well sod, and the sauce thickned, serve with minced capers, mushrums, sweet-breads, and all what you can have of assort∣ment for young Pidgeons.

50. Fat liver with ragoust.

Take the fattest and clearest, clense them, and put them into warm water, to take away the bitternesse, but take them out again pre∣sently; after they are dryed, passe them in the panne with butter or fresh seame, and stove

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them with little broth, parsley, and whole chibol; when they are enough, take out the chibol, and serve with a sauce well allayed; you may put in it trouffles, mushrums, and sparagus.

51. Fat liver on the gridiron.

Put it on the gridiron, and powder it with crummes of bread and salt; after it is broyl∣ed, powre the juice of a Lemon upon it, and serve.

52. Fat liver baked in the ashes.

You must barde it with lard, and season it well with salt, peper, beaten cloves, and a very small bundle of herbs, then wrap it up with four or five sheets of paper, and set it a baking in the ashes as a Quince; after it is baked, take heed you doe not lose the sauce with stirring of it, take the upper sheets of pa∣per off of it, and serve it with the undermost, if you will, or on a plate.

53. Fat liver fryed into fritters.

You may judge how it ought to be done by the foregoing discourses, concerning ragousts, frying, and fritters.

54. Beatilles.

Take wings, livers, and con bes, all being well whitened in water; seeth the combes by themselves, and when they are sod, peele them, then stove all together, with good broth well seasoned, and when you are almost ready to serve, fry the combes and beatils with good lard, a little parsley, and chibols minced; put

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them again to stove in their broth, untill you be ready to serve; you may mince with it some yolks of egs. Serve.

55. Tourte of Franchipanne.

Take a milk cadle, that is, boyled milk, and make thus your preparation for to make your Creame. Take a little flowre, which you shall boyl with your milk, when it is enough, toke five yolks of egges, and mixe all toge∣ther, with stamped Pistaches, Almonds, a little salt, and much sugar; then make your paste; work it with the whites of eggs and salt, and let it rest; make of it six very thin sheets of paste, and butter them one after a∣nother; spread your creame upon your six sheets, and make other six, and lay them one after another well buttered, and specially the uppermost, for to give it a colour; after it is baked in a tourt panne, or on a plate, change it into another, and sugar it, then serve with flowers.

You may make the Tourt of Franchipanne with any other tourt of Creame, and serve it as abovesaid.

56. Nulle.

Take one dosen of yolks of eggs, and two or three whites, put in it a little creame, a little salt, and much sugar, beat well all toge∣ther, and then passe it through a straining panne, then lay it upon a plate, or in a dish, and when you are ready to serve, seeth it on the chafing dish, or in the oven; when it is

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baked, serve with sugar and sweet waters, and garnish with flowers.

57. Nulle with Amber.

Take some Cream, or very new milk, allay the yolks of eggs, very little salt, sugar, musk, or amber; and when you are ready to serve, make a bed of your implements, and one bed of juice of orange, and so successively to the number of five or six, then passe the fire∣shovell red hot over them, garnish with su∣gar or musk, or water of orange flowers, and serve.

58. Green Nulle.

It doth differ from others onely in the co∣lour, which you shall give it as to the gelee.

59. Artichocks fryed.

Cut them almost into bottomes, take out the choak, and throw them into boyling wa∣ter for to whiten them, dry them, and flowre them, then fry them with fresh seame, or re∣fined butter; serve them warm, and garnish with fryed parsley, which to fry, it is neces∣sary that it be very green, and that it be not wet.

60. Artichocks fried.

Cut them into four quarters, clense them, and take out the choak, then whiten them in warm water, and drain them, flowre them with flowre and small salt; let the fresh seame, or refined butter, or melted lard be very warme, and then put your Artichocks in it, and fry them well, then set them a drai∣ning,

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and put into your frying one handfull of very green parsley, which you shall put on your Artichocks, when it is very dry, and serve.

61. Artichocks with Poivrade.

Cut your Artichocks into quarters, take out the choak, and whiten them in very fresh wa∣ter, and when you will serve, put them on a dish with peper and salt, then serve.

62. Bottoms of Artichocks.

Take off all the leaves, and cut them as far as the choak, then seeth them with broth, or with water, butter and salt; after they are sod, take them out, pick them, and take out the choak; then put them with butter and salt, and when you will serve, make a sauce with very fresh butter, one drop of vinegar, nutmegge, and the yolk of an egge, for to thicken the sauce, then serve, so that they be very white.

63. Mushrums with ragoust.

After they are well clensed, passe them in the panne with very fresh butter, parsley min∣ced, and chibol, season and stove them, and when you are ready to serve, put into it the juice and peele of lemon, and a little white meat, then serve.

64. Mushrums farced.

Choose the best shaped for to containe the farce, which you shall make with some meat, or good herbs, so that it be dainty, and allay∣ed with yolks of egges, then your mushrums

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being farced and seasoned, put them into a dish upon a barde of larde, or upon a little butter, seeth them, and serve garnished with juice of lemon.

65. Mushrums fried.

Whiten them in fresh water, and then dry them, then pickle them with a little vinegar, salt, peper, and onion; and when you are al∣most ready to serve, make a liquid paste allay∣ed with yolks of eggs; fry your mushrums, serve and garnish.

66. Mushrums after the Oliver.

After they are well clensed, cut them into quarters, and wash them in several waters, to take off the earth; when they are wel clensed, put them between two dishes with an onion and some salt, then set them on the chasing dish, that they may cast their water; press them between two plates, take very fresh butter, with parsley and chibol, and fry them, then stove them, and after they are wel sod, you may put to them some creame or white meat, and serve.

67. Omelet of gammon.

Take one dosen of eggs, break them, take out the whites of half a dosen, and beat them; then take of your gammon as much as you will think fitting, mince it, and mixe it with your eggs; take some lard, cut it and melt it, powre your Omelet into it; let it not be too much fryed, and serve.

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68. Tortoises.

Cut off the feet, the taile, and the head, set the body a seething in a pot, and season it wel with fine herbs, when they are almost sod, put some wine to them, and boyl them well; after they are sod, take them up, and cut them in∣to peeces, and take a special care to take out the gall; then fry them with butter or lard, parsley and chibol, then set them a stoving with a little broth, and when you are ready to serve, allay the yolk of an egge with some verjuice, mixe them together, and serve well seasoned.

69. Tourte of Pistaches.

Melt some butter, and put in it six yolks of eggs with some sugar; stamp one handful of Pistaches, and mixe them together with a corn of salt, then make your sheet of paste, and dress it up, put your implements in it, make or shape up your tourt, and binde it with butter'd paper; when it is baked, serve it with sugar, and garnish it with lemon peele preserved.

70. Eggs after the Portugals way.

Take many yolks of eggs, and one pound, or half a pound of sugar, with which you shall make a sirrup, which being made, you shall mixe it with your eggs, with one drop of orange-flower water, and seeth them; af∣ter they are enough, make a cornet with but∣terd paper, and well doubled, put your eggs in it, and being cold, then take off the paper,

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and put these eggs on a plate the sharp end upward, sugar it, and garnish it with the peare called nompareill (or non such) cina∣mon, lemon peele preserved, and flowers, then serve.

Another way.

Make a Sirup, as above said, then breake one dozen of egs, or more, and beat them wel, warme your sirup, and when it is very warme, mixe your egs with it, passe all together through a strainer, and seeth it; After it is sod, serve it with bisket cut and dressed up pi∣ramide-like, sweet waters, muske or amber gris.

71. Egs minion.

Make your sirup as above said, and take the yolks of egs, allay them well, and put them in your sirup; after they are sod, put them on a plate, with a drop of orenge flower water, and of muske, then serve.

72. Egs spun.

Take a quart of white wine with a peece of sugar, boile them well together, then breake some egs, and beat them, passe them through a strainer, then put them in a pipkin or pan, where your white wine is and your sugar rea∣die boiling; thus they are sod in a moment, and are found linked; take them out of the sirup, and set them a draining, then serve them piramid like with sweet water.

73. Egs after the Varenne.

Have a sirup well made, frie some whites

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of egs in the panne with butter, and put them in your sirup; when they are sod, serve them with orenge-flower water.

Another way.

Make your sirup, and mixe a little new milke with your fried egs; when they are sod, serve them very white on a plate, and gar∣nished with sweet waters.

74. Snow egs.

Boile some milke with a little flower well allayed, then put in it more then the halfe of one dosen of whites of egs, and stirre well all together, and sugar it; when you are ready to serve, set them on the fire againe, and glase them, that is, take the rest of your whites of egs, beat them with a feather, and mixe all together; or else frie well the rest of your whites, and powre them over your other egs; passe over it lightly an oven lid, or the fire∣shovell red hot, and serve them sugred, with sweet waters.

You may in stead of whites, put in it the yolks of your egs proportionably, and the whites fried upon. The creame after the Masarine way is made in the same manner, except that you must put no whites of eggs on it.

75. Egs after the Huguenote.

Take the juice of a leg of mutton, put it on a plate, or in a dish, take very new layd egs, and break them in your juice, seeth them with little salt; after they are enough, put

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more juice to them, and some Nutmeg, then serve.

75. Cardons of Spaine.

After they are whitened, take off the skin ve∣ry neatly, and set them a steeping in fresh wa∣ter, then serve them with peper and salt.

77. Sparagus with a white sauce.

Choose the biggest, scrape the foot of them, and wash them, and seeth them in water, salt them well, and let them not seeth too much; After they are sod, draine them, and make a sauce with very fresh butter, a little vinegar, salt, nutmeg, and the yolk of an egge to thicken the sauce, have a care that it doe not curd or (turne) and serve garnished with what you will.

78. Sparagus with ragoust.

Take sparagus, break them very small, then passe them in the panne with butter or lard, mixe with it some parsley and chibol, all well seasoned; set them a stoving till you be ready to serve; you may put some creame to them, or yolks of eggs, or of the juice of a legge of mutton, and may garnish other things with it.

79. Sparagus with creame.

Cut them very small, and leave nothing but the greene, frie them with butter very fresh, or melted lard, parsley and chibol, or a bundle of hearbs; after that, stove them a ve∣ry little, with very new creame, and serve if you will with a little nutmeg.

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80. Tongue of mutton with ragoust.

After it is well cleansed, cut it in two, then flowre it, passe it in the panne, and put it in ragoust, with vinegar, verjuice, salt, peper, juice of orenge, and minced capers; when it is well stoved, and the sauce well thickned, serve.

81. Tongue of mutton sticked.

Take it sod, and cleanse it, sticke it with small lardons, and rost it, then serve with the juice of a lemon, or some orenge.

82. Tongue of mutton on the gridiron.

Slit it in the middle, and put it on the gridiron with salt and crummes of bread up, on it, then make a sauce with verjuice of grapes, or goose-berries, a few chippings of bread, some parsley and chibol minced very small, and when it is well broiled, serve.

83. Satlet of Pomgranat.

Picke your granats, put them on a plate, sugar them and garnish with lemon, then serve.

84. Head of wild boare.

Cut it off neere the shoulders, to make it fairer, and of better shew, and for to pre∣serve the necke, which is the best of it, so that it be well seasoned; after you have cut it off, burne it, or scald it, if you will have it white, then cut the skin off round about the head foure inches from the nose, least it may shrinke and fall on other places; seeth and season it well, and when it is halfe sod, put

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to it white or red wine, and make an end of seething of it, againe well seasoned with peper, onion, cloves, orenge-peele, and fine hearbs. You may seeth and wrap it well with hay, least it may fall to peeces; after it is well sod, serve it cold, whole, and garnished with flowers; If you have wrapped it up, you may serve it in slices, which you may disguise with severall sorts of ragousts.

85. Slice of wild boare's head.

Cut it under the neck, or neere it, or un∣der the eare, and serve.

86. Slice of wild boare's head with ragoust.

After you have cut it as above said, boile it in wine, and a few chippings of bread; when it is enough, and the sauce thickned, serve.

87. Another way.

After it is cut as aforesaid, powder it with crummes of bread, and put it on the gridiron; after it is broiled, serve with juice of lemon, in the season of vine leaves, wrap up your slice in them, and serve readily with verjuice of grapes.

87. Greene pease.

Paste them, if you will, in the panne with butter, and seeth them with cabidge, lettice, or with purslaine; after they are well sod with a bundle of hearbs, and well seasoned, serve them garnished with lettice.

You may dresse and season them with creame, as the sparagus whereof mention is

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made above, in the article 79. of sparagus with creame.

88. Ram's stones.

Whiten them well in fresh water, take off the skinns of them, and cut them into very thinne slices, paste them in the panne with butter or melted lard, season with all what you have, then stove them with mushrums, and the juice of a leg of mutton, then serve.

Another way.

Cut them as above said, and steep them in a little vinegar and salt; a while before you serve, after you have dried them, passe them in the paste of fritters, and frie them, and throw on it some lemon juice, or orenge juice, and serve.

89. Palats of beef.

Take them well sod and soft, and withall boile them a little, for to take away the tripe taste; then cut them very thinne, passe them in the panne well seasoned, and stove them; let your sauce be allayed with the juice of a lemon, then serve.

The beef palats for garnish are fried alike, but that you cut them peece mealing.

90. Arbolade, or tensie.

Melt a little butter, and take some creame, yolks of egs, juice of peares, sugar, and very little salt, seeth all together, after it is sod, sugar it, with waters of flowers, and serve green.

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91. Young Pigeons.

After they are well whitened in water, flowred a little, and passed in the panne, stove them with good broath, mushrums, troufles, and a bundle of hearbs, all well seasoned, and serve the sauce being well allayed, and garnish with cut lemon.

The same ragoust may be made for young pigeons rosted.

92. Field fares.

Draw them, frie them as the young pigeons, and seeth them longer, because they are hard∣er, after they are sod and seasoned alike, serve garnished with pomegranate, or cut le∣mon.

93. Young Partridges.

Take some peeces of slices of beef, and beat them well with lard, season it with salt and peper, and passe it in the panne, untill the lard be very brown, then stove these imple∣ments with a little broath and an onion stamped; then straine all through a linnen cloath, you will have out of it a very red juice, with which you shall mixe a sharpnesse of verjuice, a little flowre baked, or some chip∣pings; then take your young Partridges, take off the legs and the wings, and stove them with your sauce; adding to it mushrums, and troufles, untill the sauce be well thickned; seeth, and serve readily, lest they waxe hard.

The Partridges are done the same way.

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A method for to make gammons of Westphalia-bacon.

After your porke is dressed, take up the gammons, and stretch them well, for to cause them to take the shape; put them in the cellar for the space of foure dayes, during which there will come foorth a water out of them, which you must wipe off very often; If the weather is moist, let them ly there but twice foure and twentie houres, then set them in the presse between two boords, and let them be there so long a time, as the porcke hath been dead; after that, salt them with salt, peper, cloves, and anis seed stamped; let them be take salt for the space of nine dayes; after this take them out, and put them in the lees of wine, for the space of other nine dayes; then wrap them up with hay, and bury them in the cellar, in a place which is not too moist; after you have taken them out, hang them in the chimney, at the side where there is least smoake, and faile not to perfume them twice a day with Juniper; after they are dry and a little smoky, hang them at the feeling, in a chamber which is not too moist, and un∣till you have occasion to use them, visit them often, for feare they should rot.

For to seeth them; take of them which you will, cleanse it, and set it to unsalt, in∣to a great kettle full of water, season it with fine hearbs, and put no wine to it; after it is sod, take up the skinne, spread it over

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with peper and minced parsley, and stick it with cloves, then put down the skin again, and lay it in a coole place, till you have a mind to serve it, which you shall do garnish∣ed with flowers, if you have any.

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