The French cook.: Prescribing the way of making ready of all sorts of meats, fish and flesh, with the proper sauces, either to procure appetite, or to advance the power of digestion. Also the preparation of all herbs and fruits, so as their naturall crudities are by art opposed; with the whole skil of pastry-work. Together with a treatise of conserves, both dry and liquid, a la mode de France. With an alphabeticall table explaining the hard words, and other usefull tables. / Written in French by Monsieur De La Varenne, clerk of the kitchin to the Lord Marquesse of Uxelles, and now Englished by I.D.G.

A note of the meats which may be served in the Second.

• THe pheasant 1
• The Wood-henne 2
• The Rouge 3
• The Turtle dove 4
• The young Hare 5
• The Quaile 6
• The partridge 7
• The Capon 8
• The young pidgeons 9
• Cramm'd pullets 10
• Turkey 11
• Young Ducks 12
• Wood-pidgeons 13
• Young pullets 14
• Lamb 15
• Teale 16
• Goose 17
• The young Wild-boare 18
• Young rabbits 19
• Thrush 20
• The Raile 21
• Young partridges 22
• Young Quailes 23
• Young Turkies 24
• Plouvers 25
• Loine of Stag 26
• Filet of stag 27
• Loine of Roebuck (or of Wild-goat) 28
• Ortolans 29

• Fieldfares 30
• Woodcocks 31
• Snipes 32
• Stockdoves 33
• Loine of Veale 34
• Pigge sticked 35
• Wild-goose 36
• Tame goose 37
• Water-hennes 38
• Capon with watercresses 39
• Sucking pig after the natural 40
• Cus blanes (white blanes) 41
• Heron 42
• Chine of Hare 43
• Shoulder or loine of Wildboare 44
• Tame pork 45
• Fawn of a Hinde 46
• Fawn of Roebuck 47
• Fillet of Roebuck 48
• Breast of Veale farced 49
• Surloine of Mutton 50
• Loine of Mutton 51
• Ribbe of Beefe 52
• Neats tongue fresh 53
• Joint of Mutton after the Kingly way (a la roy∣ale 54
• Joint of mutton farced 55
• Fat young Hen 56
• Bauters de pavé 57
• Shoulder of Veal rosted 58
• Liver of Veale 59

• Larks 60
• Wild-duck 51

The way of dressing and serving meat for the second Courses.

1. The Pheasant.

WHiten it on the fire, that is, plump it on the Gridiron, and leave it one wing, the neck, the head, and the taile, stick it with lardons, and wrap up what hath feathers with butter'd paper; rost it, serve, and unwrap it.

The Henne, and the Rouge are done the same way.

2. The Turtle dove.

When it is dressed, stick it, and spit it.

3. The young Hare.

After it is dressed, whiten it on the fire, en∣dore it with its blood, stick it, and spit it; when it is rosted; serve with a Poiurade, or with a sweet sauce.

4. The Quaile.

After it is dressed, whiten it on the fire, and barde it with a barde of lard, which you shall cover with vine leafs in their season; when it is rosted, serve.

5. The Partridge.

After it is dressed and whitened on the fire, you must stick it well, rost it, and when it is rosted, serve.

6. The Capon.

After it is dressed, if it be exceeding fat, barde it with a fat paper, and put into it an o∣nion stuckt, some salt and a little peper, when it is rosted, serve.

7. Young Pidgeons rosted.

As they come out of the Dovecoat, blood them in water, then scald and dresse them; you may barde them if you will with Vine leafs over them, or stick them; when they are rosted, put a poivrade under them, and serve.

8. Pullets fed with corn, or cram'd Pullets.

You must plume them dry, dresse them and whiten them on the fire, then stick or barde them, rost them, and serve.

9. Turkie.

It must likewise be plumed dry, whiten it on the fire, rost it, and serve.

10. Young Ducks.

Dresse them, and whiten them on the fire, and if you will, stick on them four little roses of lardons upon the four joints; when they are rosted, serve with a Porvrade.

11. The Wild-pidgeons.

After it is well dressed, stick it, spit it, and serve.

12. Cockerels.

Dresse them, and whiten them on the fire, then stick and rost them, and serve.

You may serve them dry, or with a sauce made with water, salt, peper, and chibols minced.

You may also serve them with ragoust, as the Sea-henne, of which hereafter.

13. Lamb.

If it is fat, after it is rosted, throw on it the crums of bread with a little salt and parsley, if you will, and serve.

14. Teales.

After they are well dressed, spit them, and when they are rosted, serve them with O∣range.

15. Goose.

As it comes from the mother scald and dress it, cut off the neck close to the body, and the legs, and after it is whitened on the fire, and trussed up, set it a rosting, and make a farce to put under it, with its liver, and store of good herbs minced together, which you shall passe in the panne with lard or butter, and some yolks of eggs, all well seasoned, and serve.

16. Young Wildboare, or Grice.

Take off the skinne as farre as the head, dress it, and whiten it on the fire, cut off the four feet, stick it with lardons, and put in the body of it one bay leaf; or some fine herbs; when it is rosted, serve.

17. Young Rabbits.

Dresse it, whiten it on the fire, stick and rost it with verjuice under it, and serve.

After it is rosted, you may put some salt, a little peper and juice of orange in the body of it, and stirre all well together, then serve.

18. The Thrush.

After it is pulled, truss it up, and whiten it, stick it and spit it; put a tost under it, and a sauce with verjuice, a little vineger, onion, and orange peele, then serve. So is done the Fieldfare.

19. The Rayle.

It is done as the Thrush, without drawing it, serve.

20. Young Partridges.

Dresse them and whiten them on the fire, stick them with lardons, rost it with verjuice under it, then serve.

21. Young Quailes.

They must be barded with vine leafs in the season.

22. Young Turkies.

Pull them warm, let them mortifie, then dress them, and whiten them on the fire, stick them and rost them, then serve.

23. Plover.

After it is pulled, truss it up, and whiten it, then lard it, and rost it; serve with a sauce and a tost under it.

24. Loyne of Stagge.

Take off all the skinnes, stick it, and

spit it, serve with a Poivrade.

The Fillet is done up like the Loyne with Poivrade.

The Loine of Roebuck is also done the same way.

25. Ortolan.

After it is dressed, truss it up, and barde it with lard, and vine leavs over it in the season; In the Spring it must be drawn; after it is rosted, serve.

26. The Woodcock.

When it is pulled, trusse it with its bill, which is instead of a prick, whiten it on the fire, and stick it; rost it with a tost under it, in the way of a Poivrade, with juice of orange, then serve.

The Snipe is done after the same way.

27. Another way for the Snipe.

Dress it as the Ortolan, only that some do draw them, which is very fitting at any other season but Winter, because these birds, in the Spring, Summer, and Autumn, live on no∣thing but Caterpillars, Ants, Lice, Herbs, or Leaves of trees; but howsoever, drawn or not, barde it with vine leaves in the season, spit it and rost it, so that it be not too dry, and serve.

28. The Stockdove.

After it is dressed, whiten it on the fire, stick and rost it, with a Poivrade under it, and serve.

29. Loyne of Veale.

After it is mortified, and whitened, stick it very thick, rost it, and make a ragoust with verjuice, a little water, a little vinegar, o∣range peele, and chippings of bread, then serve it well seasoned.

30. Pigge sticked.

Take off the skinne, cut off the head, and the four feet, whiten it in warm water, and stick it, or if you will, barde it half; when it is rosted, serve with crums of bread, and salt upon it.

31. Wild-goose.

After it is dressed, whiten it on the fire, and lard it onely on the quarters like a little rose, rost it and serve.

The tame Goose is done the same way.

32. Water-henne.

After it is pulled, draw it, whiten it on the fire, stick and rost it with a Poivrade under it.

33. Capon with Watercresses.

Barde it with lard, and rost it, season your Cresses with salt and vinegar, or otherwise, dead it in the Capon sauce with a little vine∣gar, then serve.

34. Sucking Pig to the natural.

Take it from the Sow, scald it, dresse it, and rost it with a bundle of herbs, salt, and peper in the body of it, then serve.

Another way.

Take it also from under the Sow, blood it,

water ready to boyle, and when it is scalded, empty it at the side, trusse up the fore feet to∣wards the neck, and they behind with a prick, whiten it in warm water, and slice it on the body; for to rost it, put into the sto∣mack of it an onion sticked with cloves, fine herbs, a little butter, salt, and a little peper, then sow up the overture, of hole, and rost it: That you may not be troubled with basting of it, rub it with Olive oyl, thus he taketh a good colour, and the skinne is very tender; when it is well rosted, serve garnished with flowers.

You may baste it with salt and water, or else rubbe it with some lard.

35. Cus blanes or Thiastias.

Pull them, and leave them their heads, and draw them, truss up their legs as the Woodcocks, then whiten them on the fire, and stick them, or if you will in little roses on the thighs; when they are rosted, serve with a Poivrade under.

36. Heron.

Pull it, and draw it; then seek our six galls which are on the body of it, and a seventh which is within, ttuss up the legs along the thighs, whiten it on the fire, and stick it, wrap up the neck with butter'd paper, then rost it, and when it is rosted serve.

37. Chine of Hare.

After you have taken off the skin, and emp∣tyed him, cut him chine-way, that is, as far

as the shoulders, then take off three skinnes which are on't, then trusse it up behind, stick and rost it, and serve with a Poivrade.

38. Shoulder or loyn of Boare.

After you have beaten it well, take the Venison out of it, which is commonly called the Lard; then stick it rost it, and serve with a Sauce Robert, or with a Poivrade.

As for the Loine, lard it with great lard, and pass it in the panne with fresh scam and flowre, then seeth it with broth and water in a great earthen panne, or kettle, season it well, and when it is almost sod, put into it one pint of white wine, and all being reduced to the proportion of a sauce, you may serve it under the shoulder, or if you will serve it dry, it must be of a more haut goust.

39. Pork.

You may disguise it near hand like the Boare, that is, that after you have beaten it well, you shall endore it with blood, and a while after stick it, and spit it, not forgetting well to endore the feet with blood before it be rosted, serve it as the Boare, with sauce, or without it.

40. Fawn.

Before it be mortified too much, dress it very neatly, truss it up, and take off some skins which are on it, and look like slime; then whiten it on the fire for to stick it, so that it be not too much whitened, because it would put you to too much trouble; take

heed also lest you burn the head, or lest the hair of it become black, spit it, and wrap the head with butter'd paper; when it is rosted, serve with a Poivrade.

41. Fawn of Roebuck.

Dresse it as the above written, trusle it up; and lard it, wrap up the head also with but∣tered paper, and when it is rosted, serve it with a poivrade, orange, or sweet sauce.

42. Fillet of Roebuck.

After you have stuck it, rost it wrapped up with butter'd paper, after it is rosted, serve it with a poivrade.

Another way.

You may lard it with mean lard, and stick it on the top with smaller lardons; when it is at the spit, make a pickle under it, and after it is rosted, stove it, and serve.

43. Breast of Veale farced.

Take it white and fat, and let it steep in water till your Farce is ready, which you shall make thus; Take of the flesh of a Fillet of Veale, beef suet, crums of bread boyled, ca∣pers, mushrums, a few fine herbs, and yolks of eggs, mince all together well seasoned, and farce the breast with it; which being done, close it up with pricks, or sow it up, and whiten it in warm water; this is to serve it boyled.

For to rost it, put into your Farce palats of beef and other things, and fill it not so much as for to boyl, after you have stuck it,

and spitted it, make under it what ragoust you will; after it is rosted, and the sauce well seasoned, stove it with it, and serve.

44. Surloine of Mutton.

To serve it with ragoust, into stakes, or whole, you must passe it in the panne with butter, or melted lard, being flowred, then stove it with broth, a bundle of herbs, and some capers, and for to thicken the sauce, fry a little flowre with some lard, and when the flowre is brown, put to it a minced onion, and a drop of vinegar; let all stove together, and serve garnished with what you have. You may rost it stuck with parsley, and when it is rosted, serve it dry, or with verjuice of grapes.

45. Loine of Mutton.

After it is well mortified, lard it with great lard, and spit it; make a pickle with onion, salt, peper, a very little of orange or lemon peele, broth and vinegar; after it is rosted, stove it with the sauce, which for to thicken, you shall use a little flowre passed in the pan with some lard, as abovesaid; garnish it with what you have; capers are good for it, and some Anchovis. You may give it the thickning of turnips strained, serve.

46. Ribbe of Beef.

Take a rib of the first peece well interlar∣ded, with the fat very white, spit it, when it is almost rosted, take up the Fillet, and baste it with a little broth. For to make your ra∣goust, cut it into very thinne slices, with two

or three chibols, whole or otherwise, salt pe∣per, a little of chippings of bread, or any thickning you have, then mixe all together, and stove without covering; serve the ragoust with a little vinegar, or juice of a leg of mut∣ton; you may mixe it with what you have; have a care that the rib of beef be not black with too much rosting.

47. Neats tongue fresh.

Seeth it, dress it, stick it, and rost it on the spit, after it is rosted, cut it along in the midst, and serve with such ragoust as you will.

Another way.

Stove it with a little wine, sugar, and clove, untill the sweet sauce be made; and if it is not strong enough, put in it a drop of vinegar, then serve.

48. Joint of Mutton after the Kingly way.

Take a good joint of Mutton, big and short, beat it well, take off the skinne, and take out the Knuckle bones, flowre it, and passe it in the panne with lard or fresh seame; then seeth it with a little broath well seasoned with mushrums, trousfles, and beatilles; when it is almost sod, fry a little flowre with an onion, a drop of vinegar, and a little bea∣ten lard, stove all together, serve with a short sauce, and garnisht with pomegranats, or le∣mon sliced.

49. Joint of Mutton farced.

You shall finde the way of farcing of it in

the discourse of the Potages; after it is far∣ced, stove it with good broth and a bundle of herbs, fry into it flowre, mushrums, and stakes for to garnish, seeth well all together, and thicken the sauce well, with what sharpness you will, lemon, orange or verjuice, serve garnished with what you have over your small stakes.

50. Fat henne.

Dresse it, cut off the extremities of it, and lard it with meane lard; after it is flowred, passe it in the panne with lard or fresh seam, then stove it with good broth, and season it, when it is almost enough, fry into it mu∣shrums, fat liver, a little flowre, and an oni∣on stuckt with cloves, after all is well sod, and the sauce well thickned, you may serve it gar∣nished with pomegranate.

Another way.

You may farce it with Oysters, or with young Pidgeons, and with all other Beatils; seeth it the same way, and garnish with what you have, then serve.

Another way.

Cut it in half, passe it in the panne, season it, and garnish as before, then serve.

Another way.

After it is sticked or barded with a paper over the barde, rost it; when it is well rost∣ed, powder it with crums of bread and small salt, then serve it with poor man's sauce, ver∣juice or orange, and in winter with cresses.

51. Batteurs de pave.

To put them with ragoust, cut off the head and the feet; after they are dressed, lard them with meane lard, flowre them, and pass them in the panne with butter or melted lard, then stove them with broth well seasoned, a bun∣dle of herbs and mushrums; fry into it a little flowre and onion, and after that all is well stoved, serve with a sauce thickned with what thickning you will.

52. Shoulder of Veale rosted.

After it is well whitened in water, or on the fire, which will be the fitter and better, stick or barde it with lard, or if you will, as it rost∣eth, baste it with butter, after it is rosted, strew on it crums of bread, and small salt, and serve.

You may serve it rosted with a Poivrade.

53. Liver of Veale.

Lard it with meane lard, then stick it, warm the spit about the place where it ought to remaine, and as it doth rost, baste it with a Poivrade, compounded of chibols, salt, o∣nion stuckt, peper, and a little broth; after it is rosted, stove it in the sauce, then serve it whole, or into slices, and let the sauce be well thickned, with what thickning you will.

54. Larks.

Rost them stuck or barded with lard; after they are rosted, if they are barded, be∣strew

them with crums of bread, and small salt, and serve.

55. Wild-goose.

You may put it the same way as the batteur de pave, and with what garnish you will.

You may also rost and serve it with a Poiv∣rade.

You may take this advice, that you are to garnish your dishes with flowers, according to the season and commodity.

The way of making ready some sauces.

The sauce called Poivrade is made with vinegar, salt, onion, or chibols, orange, or lemon peele, and peper; seeth it, and serve it under that meat, for which it is fitting.

The Green-sauce is made thus; Take some green corn, burn a tost of bread, with vine∣gar, a little peper and salt, and stamp all to∣gether in a mortar, and strain it through a linnen cloath, then serve your sauce under your meat.

The sauce for the young Rabbit, or for the Rabbit is such. After they are rosted, you put some salt and peper in the body, with some orange juice, and stirre all well toge∣ther.

For young Partridges, orange, or verjuice of Grapes.

Another sauce for the Thrush and the Rayle, is to put some tosts under the spit,

and when your birds are almost rosted, you take away your tosts, and set them apart, and take vinegar, verjuice, salt, peper, and orange peele, boyl all together, and having put in your tosts, serve.

The Fieldfare, and the Woodcock are served with tosts, and a Poivrade under.

The Plover is served with a sauce made with verjuice, orange or lemon peele, a drop of vinegar, peper, salt, and chibols, not for∣getting tosts.

The Snipe will have the same sauce.

The Stockdove with a Poivrade.

The Pig and Lamb with a green sauce.