The ingenious and diverting letters of the Lady -- travels into Spain. Describing the devotions, nunneries, humours, customs, laws, militia, trade, diet, and recreations of that people. : intermixt with great variety of modern adventures, and surprising accidents: being the truest and best remarks extant on that court and countrey.

LETTER XIV.

THE Ceremony of Swearing to the Treaty of Peace con∣cluded at Nimmiguen, between the Crawns of France and Spain, was perform'd here the last of August. I had a great desire to have seen what past then; but as Women are not to be present there, so the Connestable De Castille promis'd to get us into the King's Chamber, as soon as he should be gone into the great Hall, Madam Gueux the Danish Ambassador's Lady, and Madam De Chais, the Envoy of Holland's Lady, were there also. We went up at a grivate Pair of Stairs, where one of the Constable's Gentlemen waited to receive us, and we tarry'd for some time in a very fine Closet full of Spanish Books, well bound and very diverting: There amongst others, I found the Histo∣ry of Don Quixot, the famous Knight of the Manca, in which

the plainness and the subtilty of the Expression, the weight and strength of Proverbs, and that which the Spaniards call El pico, that is the smartness and nicety of a Language, appear'd quite otherwise, then the Translations which we have in French. I was so pleas'd in reading it, that I hardly thought of see∣ing the Ceremony: It began as soon as the Marquis De Villars came, and through a Lattice-window which was open'd, we saw what past. The King placed himself at the end of the great Gilt-Hall, which is one of the most stately in the Palace; The Alcove was spread with a wonderful fine Carpet; the The Throne and the Canopy were embroider'd with Pearls, Diamonds, Rubies, Emeraulds and other precious Stones. Cardinal Portocarrero sat in a great Chair below the Alcove, on the right hand of the Throne; the Constable of Castille sat up∣on a Stool; the French Ambassador was seated on the left hand of the Throne upon a Bench covered with Velvet, and the Grandees were placed near the Cardinal; when every body was seated according to their Quality, the King came in, and when he was in his Throne, the Cardinal, the Ambassador, and the Grandees set down and cover'd themselves. A Secretary read aloud, the Power which the most Christian King had sent to his Ambassador. After that, a little Table was brought and set before the King, with a Crucifix and a Book of the E∣vangelists, and whilst he held his hand upon it, the Cardinal read the Oath, by which he swore to keep the Peace with France: There were some other little Ceremonies, but I did not mind them well enough to be able to give you an Account of 'em. A little after the King return'd to his Lodgings, but we were gone out of them before: We stay'd in the same Clo∣set where we stopt at first: It was so near his Chamber, that we heard him say, that he was never so hot, and that he would put off his Collar: And indeed, the Sun does shine very hot in this Country: At my first coming hither, I was afflicted with a strange Meagrim, and could not imagine the cause of it; but my Kinswoman told me 'twas because I wore too much upon my Head, and that if I did not take care I might lose my sight so; I immediately threw off my Bonnets and my Cornets, and since that time I have never had any pain in my Head. For my part, I cannot believe that there is in any part of the World more serene Air than there's here: It is so pure, that you can∣not perceive so much as one Cloud; and it is affirm'd to me, that even the Weather here in Winter, is like the finest Wea∣ther in any other Country: That which is most dangerous here is, a certain Wind De Galiegue, which blows off the Mountains

of the Mountains Gallicia: It is not violent, but 'tis so piercing, that it reaches the very Bones, and sometimes causes a Lameness in a Leg or an Arm, and often in half the Body, which lasts for ones life: It is more frequent in Summer than in Winter. Stran∣gers take it for the Western Briezes, and are ravisht when they feel it, but experience convinces them of its Malignity. The Seasons in Spain are much more convenient and pleasant than either in France, England, Holland, or Germany; For hot to rec∣kon that purity of Air, which cannot be imagin'd so fine as 'tis from the Month of September to the Month of June, it is not so cold, but one can make a shift without fire; and this is the reason, why there's no Chimneys in any of their Appartments, and that they make use only of Chafindishes. But 'tis a great Happiness that Wood being so scarce as 'tis in this Country, they have no occasion for't; It never freezes thicker than the thickness of two Crowns, and there falls little Snow. But the adjacent Mountains furnish Madrid with it all the Year round: The Months of June, July and August, are indeed excessive hot.

I was lately in a Company where all the Ladies were sadly frighted: One of 'em said, that she had received a Letter from Barcelona, which advis'd, that a Bell there, which was only rung upon some publick Calamity, or upon some occasion of the highest Consequence, had all alone rung several times: This Lady came from Barcelona, and she assur'd me, that when∣ever any Misfortune and Misery is to befal Spain, or that any of the House of Austria is to die, this Bell rings; that for a quar∣ter of an hour together the Clapper of the Bell moves with a strange quickness, and strikes in turning round: I would not believe it, neither do I yet: But all the Company confirm'd what she said: If it is a Lye, there were above twenty that con∣spir'd with her in it. They began to think upon what, and on whom this unhappiness which by this sign is foretold was to fall; and as they are very Superstitious, the beautiful Marchio∣ness De Liche, encreast their fears, by telling them, that Don John was very sick.

In their deep Mourning, they are attir'd like Fools, but chief∣ly on the first days; for the Foot-men as well as the Masters have long Cloaks trailing, and instead of Hats, they wear a very high Past-board Cap cover'd with Crape; their Horses are all in black Trappings, and Houssings which cover their Heads and all their Bodies: Nothing looks uglier; their Coaches are so ill co∣ver'd, that the Cloth which covers the Roof, hangs almost down to the Boots: No body that sees this doleful Equipage but would think, that some Corps is a carrying to be bury'd; the

People of Quality wear their Cloaks of black Bays, very thin and rotten, the least thing tears it in pieces: And that Mourn∣ing is most graceful, that is most ragged and tatter'd. I have seen some Cavelleros which tore their Cloaths on purpose; and I assure you, that through some of their Cloaths, you may see their Skin as ugly as 'tis to look on: For though their Children when they are young, are as white as Alablaster, and so pret∣ty, that you wou'd take them for Angels, yet it must be grant∣ed, that as they grow bigger, they alter very strangely; the heat of the Sun roasts them, the Air tans them, and 'tis easy to know a Spaniard from any other Nation: Their Features are nevertheless regular, but still there wants methinks our Air and Meen as well as our Skin and Complexion.

All the Scholars wear long Robes, with a little Border of Linnen about their Necks instead of a Collar; they are habitted very like the Jesuits; there's of 'em above thirty Years old; they are known to be Students yet by their Habits.

I fancy this City to look like a great Coup, in which they feed Poultry: For really, from the Level of the Street to the fourth Story, one can see nothing but Lattices whose holes are very small; and their very Balconies have 'em: There's always to be seen some of the poor confin'd Women standing behind them, to look upon Passengers, and when they dare, they open them, and with great delight shew themselves; there's not a Night passes without four or five hundred Consorts of Musick, in several parts of the Town; it's true they are at a moderate rate, and it is sufficient if a Gallant has only his Guittar or his Harp, and sometimes both joyn'd with a Voice hoarse enough to awake the most drowsy body, and afford 'em the pleasure of a Queen: If either they do not understand what is most excel∣lent, or cannot obtain it, they are content with what they can get: I never saw any Virginals or Theorba's here.

In every Street, and at every corner House, there's an Image or Statue of our Lady dress'd after the Fashion of the Country; with a Pair of Beads in her Hands, and either a great Wax Candle or a Lamp burning before her: I have seen three or four in my Kinswoman's Stable, with other pieces of Devotion; for you must know, that every Groom will have his Oratory as well as his Master, though perhaps neither one nor t'other often pray there. When one Lady goes to visit another, if it be in the Night, four Pages comes to receive her with great Flam∣boys of white Wax, and in the same manner conduct her out again, and while she's going into her Chair, they commonly kneel upon one Knee: This is something more splendid, than

the small Wax Candles enclos'd in Links which are us'd in France.

Here are Houses on purpose for Women of lewd Lives, like the Madelonnettes at Paris: They use them very severely, and there is not a day passes that they are not whipt several times; in a certain time they are releas'd, but come out worse than they went in, what they suffer'd making them not a bit the better. They live almost altogether in a particular part of the Town, where vertuous Women never go, but if by chance any one does go that way, they run and pursue after her, as if she was their Enemy; and if it happens that they are the strongest, she is sure to be cruelly us'd; and for the Cavalleros, they run the Risque of being torn in pieces as oft as they pass that way; that is to say, who shall have 'em: One takes him by the Arm, ano∣ther by the Legs, and a third by the Head, and if he grows angry, they altogether fall upon him and rob him, and even strip him of his Cloaths. My Kinswoman has a Page who was ignorant of the Tricks of these wretched Wenches, and went innocently through their Quarters, but they stript him as naked as common Thieves in a Wood could have done; and yet a Man must be content with this Treatment, For to whom shall he go for Restitution?

The Bell of Barcelona hath been but too true in its Progno∣sticks, for Don John was the first of this Month brought down so very low with his sickness, that the Physicians despair'd of him, and he was advis'd to prepare himself for Death: He receiv'd the News with so much Tranquility and Resignation, as very much confirm'd the Belief that several Persons had before entertain'd, that he had taken some private disgust, which made him rather wish to die than live: The King came every moment into his Chamber, and spent several hours at his Bed-side, notwithstan∣ding his earnest Prayers that he would not so expose himself to a Feaver: He receiv'd the Blessed Viaticum, made his Will, and writ a Letter to a Lady whose name I could not learn: He com∣manded Don Antonio Ortis his chief Secretary to carry it with a little Box lockt, which I saw; it was made of China Wood, and light enough to make one think there was in't nothing but Let∣ters and perhaps some Jewels; while he was so dangerously sick a Courrier arriv'd with the News of the King's Marriage with Mademoiselle; the Joy of which did not only fill the Palace, but all the City shew'd Expressions of it, for there were over the whole Town Artificial Fire-works and Illuminations for three Days together: The King could not contain himself, but run into Don John's Chamber, and although he was very drowsy and heavy to sleep, and wanted rest, yet he awak'd him to tell him

that the Queen would quickly be here, and intreated him to think of nothing but being well again, that he might assist at her reception. Ah! Syre, answered the Prince to him, I shall never have that Satisfaction, I should be content to die, if I had had the Honour to have seen her once: The King fell a weeping, and told him, That seeing him in that Condition, was the only thing that di∣sturb'd his Happiness. There was to have been a Bull-Feast, but the Prince's sickness has caus'd it to be put off, and the King would not have suffer'd any Fire-works in the Palace-Court, had not Don John, notwithstanding he had a violent pain in his Head, begg'd him to permit them. In fine, the 17th of this Month he dy'd extreamly regretted by some, and as little by o∣thers. This is the fate both of Princes and Favourites, as well as of Persons that move in an ordinary Sphere; and as his Cre∣dit was already declining, and the Courtiers now thought of no∣thing else but the Queen-Mother's Return, and the Arrival of the new Queen, so it is a mighty strange thing to observe with what indifference the Sickness and Death of Don John was taken; they did not so much as talk on him the very next day; It seem'd as if he had never been in the World. Alas! Dear Cousin, does not this deserve a little to be reflected on? He govern'd all the Kingdoms of the King of Spain, his very name struck Terror, he caus'd the Queen-Mother to be banisht; he drove away Father Nitard, and Valenuela, who were both Favourites, he had for the most part a greater Court than the King: And yet four and twenty hours after he was dead, I believe I saw in different pla∣ces fifty Persons of the highest Quality, which did not so much as speak one word of this poor Prince, notwithstanding divers of them had very great Obligations to him: And yet after all, he had very great personal Qualifications and Vertues: He was of a middle Stature, and a well shap'd body, his Features were regular, his Eyes black and lively, he had black Hair, a great deal of it, and very long: He was well bred, of a great Wit and Judgment, very generous, brave and beneficent, and had a Ca∣pacity for the highest Affairs. He was not ignorant of any thing that was suitable to his Birth, nor of any of the Arts and Sci∣ences. He both spoke and writ very well five several Languages, and understood more: He was perfectly well read in History; he could both make and play upon any Instrument as well as the best Master. He understood how to turn several things; he could forge Arms, and he delighted much in the Mathematicks; but being call'd to the management of the Government, he was oblig'd to take his Thoughts off all these Exercises. The face of things chang'd in a moment, his Eyes were scarce clos'd,

before the King (mov'd only by his own kind and easie Nature for the Queen his Mother) run to Tolleda to see her, and to in∣treat her to return; she consented to it with all the Joy she had to see the King. They wept not a little, while they embrac'd each other, and we saw 'em come back together. All the Per∣sons of Quality went to meet their Majesties, and the People shew'd abundance of Joy. I should inlarge a great deal more upon this return, did I not intend to be very particular in the Memoirs I am writing.

Don John laid three days in his Bed of State, and in the same Cloaths which he had made to go meet the young Queen; after that he was carried to the Escurial: The Funeral had nothing of Greatness; the Officers of his House, with a very few Friends accompany'd him: He was laid in the little Vault near the Pan∣theon, which is reserved solely for the Princes and Princesses of the Royal Blood; for there are none bury'd in the Pantheon, you must know, but Kings, and those Queens that have had Chil∣dren; those that have had none, are bury'd in that particular Vault. In a few days we are to go to the Escurial, which will be when the King goes there; but he is so taken up with his young Queen, that he can think of nothing but going towards the Frontiers to meet her. In every place where I come, they are continually ringing it aloud in my Ears, that she'll quickly be Queen of two ••••d twenty Kingdoms. In all likelyhood there's eleven of them in the Indies; for I only know those of the old and new Castille, Arragon, Valentia, Navarre, Murcia, Grenada, Andalousia, Gallicia, Leon, and the Isles Majorques. In these Places there are some parts of them admirable, upon which it seems as if Heaven had a mind to spread abroad its most benign Influences. There are others again so barren, that there is nei∣ther Corn, Herbs, Vines, Fruit, Meadows, nor Springs; and of these one may say, there's more than of the others. But gene∣rally speaking, the Air there is good and wholsome. In certain parts the Heats are excessive, and in others the Cold and the Winds are insupportable, although 'tis in the same Season. There are a great many Rivers, but that which is pretty singular, is, that the biggest of them is not Navigable; particularly those of Tagus, Guadiana, Minchio, Duero, Guadalguiver, and that of E∣bre; for either because of the Rocks, the falls of Water, the Gulphes, or the Turnings, Vessels cannot pass upon them, and this is one of the greatest Difficulties of Trade, and which most of all hinders those things from coming to Cities which there's need of; for if there was an easie Communication between them, those Places and Towns that want a great many Wares

and Goods, might be supplyed from those that abound, and so every body might be furnish'd with necessary things at a reaso∣nable price; whereas the Charges by Land-carriage being so high, one must want divers Conveniences, unless you are in a Condition to pay three times more for a thing than 'tis worth.

Amongst the several Cities which belong to the King of Spain, these are esteem'd, either for Beauty or Riches, viz. Madrid, Seville, Grenada, Valentia, Sarragousa, Tolleda, Vailladolid, Cor∣doua, Salamancha, Cadiz, Naples, Milan, Messina, Palermo, Ca∣gliari, Bruxelles, Antwerp, Gand, and Mons. There are a great many others which nevertheless are very considerable; and several of the Towns are as big as Cities; but there are not in them those multitudes of People, which are both the Riches and Strength of a King. And there are divers Reasons to be given why there is this defect. First, When King Ferdinand drove a∣way the Moors out of Spain, and established the Inquisition, what through the Punishments they inflicted upon some Jews, and the banishing of others, there dy'd and went out of the Kingdom in a little while, above nine hundred thousand Persons; besides, the Indies draw away abundance; the Unfortunate go there to enrich themselves, and when they have done so, they remain to enjoy the fruit of their Labour, and the Pleasures of the Country. Again, Soldiers are rais'd in Spain, and sent away to Garison other Cities under the obedience ••f the King; these Soldiers marry and settle in the Places where they happen to be, and never return to those from whence they came. Add to this, that the Spanish Woman bear but few Children; if they have three 'tis reckon'd abundance: and Strangers do not come to in∣habit there, as in other parts of the World, because they are not lov'd there, and the Spaniards are naturally recatados, that is sin∣gular, and reserv'd to themselves, and will not be communicative and open with other Nations, which they either envy or scorn: And thus having examin'd into all those means which help to depopulate the Country under his Catholick Majesty, one may rather wonder that there are so many People remaining.

There grows but little Corn in Castille, it is brought from Si∣cily, France and Flanders; and indeed, how should it grow, un∣less the Earth would produce it of it self, as the Land of Pro∣mise did? The Spaniards are too idle to take pains to Till and improve it; for being the meanest Peasant is persuaded that he is Hidalgo, that is to say, a Gentleman, that in every little Fami∣ly there's an Apocryphal History, compos'd within an hundred Years, which he leaves to the Children and Nephews of a Vil∣lage as an Inheritance, in which fabulous History they are all

made to descend from ancient Chivalry, whose Ancestors have done wonderful things; reciting that their Great Grandfathers, Don Pedro, and Don John, performed such and such Services to the Crown. I say, they having taking up these vain Conceits of themselves, no wonder if they will neither derogate from the Gravidad, nor Decendentia. At this rate do they talk, and they will more willingly endure Hunger, and all Severities of Life, than work (say they) like Mercinaries, which belongs only to Slaves. And thus Pride seconded by Sloth, hinder the most part of them to sow their Land, unless some Strangers come and help them to till their Ground, which by a special directi∣on and guidance of Providence always happens; Strangers that are more labourious and worldly minded, being mov'd thither by the gain they find; so that you shall have a sorry Peasant sitting in his Chair reading of a mouldy Romance, whilst these Strangers are working for him, in order to carry away his Money.

There's no Oats to be seen, Hay is scarce, their Horses and Mules eat Barley in the Straw chopt small. The Hills and Mountains in these Kingdoms I speak of, are of such a prodi∣gious height and length, that I do not believe there's the like in any other part of the World; one meets with some of an hun∣dred Leagues in length, which joyn one to another in a con∣tinu'd Chain, and which without Hyperbole, are higher than the Clouds, they are called Sierras, amongst which are reckon'd the Mountains of Pyrenea, Granada, Astura, Alcantara, Morena, Tol∣leda, Doua, Molina and Albanera. These Hills render the way so very difficult, that no Waggons can pass, which obliges them to carry all upon Mules, who are so sure footed, that in two hundred Leagues continual travelling amongst Rocks, and great Flint Stones, they will not so much as once stumble.

I have been shew'd some of the Patents the King Grants, I never read so many Titles, I'll set 'em down here. He calls himself King of Spain, Castelle, Leon, Navarre, Arragon, Grenada, Tolleda, Valentia, Gallicia, Sevile, Murcia, Jaen, Hierusalem, Naples, Sicily, Majorque, Minorque and Sardignia, the East and West Indies, the Isles and Terra Forma of the great Ocean, Arch Duke of Austria, Duke of Burgundia, Bra∣bant, Luxemburgh, Guelderland, Milan, Count of Hasburgh, Flanders, Tirol and Barcelona, Lord of Biscay and Molina, Marquess of the Holy Empire, Lord of Friezland, Salines, Ʋtrecht, Malines, Overissel and Groningen; and Grand Seignior of Asia and Africa. I have been told, that Francis I. laught at these, when he recriv'd a Letter from Charles V. stuft with

such arrogant Titles, and in his Answer gave himself no o∣ther Title than Citizen of Paris, and Lord of Gentilis.

They do not trouble their Heads to study much here, that little they do know bears them out, for with the help of their Wit and Grave looks, they seldom betray their ignorance by being at a loss about any matters; when they speak, they always seem to know more than they do; and when they are silent, you would think 'em wise enough to resolve the most knotty Questions. Nevertheless there are some famous Uni∣versities in Spain, amongst which they reckon, Saragossa, Bar∣celona, Salamanca, Alcala, Santiago, Grenada, Seville, Coim∣bra, Terragona, Evora, Lisbon, Madrid, Murcia, Majorque, Tol∣leda, Lerida, Valantia and Occa: There are but few famous Preachers; here and there you'll meet with some that are Pa∣thetical: But indeed, let these Sermons be good or bad, the Spaniards that hear 'em will perpetually beat their breasts with an Extraordinary fervour, and even disturb the Preacher with the grievous Cry which their troubl'd Consciences make them utter. I am willing to believe that there are a few that have some compunction, but in my Conscience, I doubt far less than they make shew of: They never leave off their Swords, either when they go to Confession or the Sacrament; they say, they wear 'em to defend Religion; and in the Morning before they put them on, they kiss 'em and make the sign of the Cross with them; they pay an excessive Devotion to the Blessed Virgin, and put an extraordinary confidence in her; there's hardly any Man that does not wear a Scapular or some em∣broider'd Image that hath toucht some of those that are held to be miraculous; and thô otherwise they do not lead lives very regular, yet they will not forbear praying to her with a trust, that 'tis she that must protect and save 'em from the greatest Evils; they are very charitable, not only upon the account of the Merits by Alms Deeds, but also by a natural Inclination they have to give, and a real pain they endure if either through Poverty, or for any other reason they are forc'd to refuse any thing that is askt them; they have also another good Quality, which is never to forsake their Friend in Sickness; their care and their concern is far greater in such a time, when doubtless the Presence as well as the Assistance of a Friend is most want∣ed: So that Persons that do not see one another four times in a Year, yet are constant in their visit three or four time every day; when one is under any affliction, and that they can become useful to each other: But as soon as they are well, they resume the same way of living they us'd before they were sick.

Don Frederick de Cardonna, of whom I now talk to ye, Dear Cousin, as if he and you were well acquainted, is return'd; He hath brought me a Letter from the fair Marchioness De los Rios, who without doubt, is still one of the prettiest Women in the World, and who is not weary of her retirement, I also by him heard from the Arch-bishop of Burgos, whose Merits are uncommon; and he added, that he came back in the company of a Spanish Gentleman, who had told him some very wonder-things; amongst others, that every Spaniard who is born on Good Friday, whenever they go by or through any Church-yard, in which there has been any body burry'd that was murder'd, or if they pass through any place where a Murder has been committed, tlthô the Man who was kill'd has been taken away, yet for all that he appears to 'em all bloody, and in the same manner and condition he happen'd to be in when he was murder'd, and this too, whether they knew one another or no: This certainly is a very unpleasant thing to those it happens; but in requital they can cure the Plague with breathing upon the Party, and do not receive the Infection, althô they be with those that have the Plague upon them: Many People, said he, wondred that Philip the IV. held his head so high, and stair'd up with his eyes, the reason was, he was born on Good Friday, and when he was very young he had several Apperitions of of these Persons that had been murder'd; so that with the fright of 'em he had got a custom (very seldom) to hold down his head: But, said I to Don Frederick, Did he talk seriously, and as if these things were allow'd of every body without any doubt. And just at I was saying, that it would be worth while to en∣quire of some creditable Person about these Matters; Don Fer∣dinand de Tolleda came into my Chamber, and so he askt him, and he assur'd me, that he had frequently heard folks talk thus of these Matters, but yet he would not answer for the Truth. It is also said, continu'd he, that there are a certain People which can kill a mad Dod with breathing upon him, and that they have a Power to remain in the Fire without be∣ing burnt; and yet I could never see any of 'em that car'd to trust themselves there: But they give this reason, that thô they could safely do it, yet there would be something of Vanity in it, by such peculiar Favours from Heaven to distinguish them∣selves from other Men; and for my part, said I laughing, I am of Opinion these Men have more Prudence than Humility: They are afraid (as 'tis but reasonable) of the biting of the Dog, and the heat of the Furnace. I am altogher of, your mind, Madam, reply'd Don Frederick, I can give little Faith to things above nature.

I do not pretend to make you believe it, says Don Fer∣nand, thô I must tell ye, I do not find any thing in this Matter more extraordinary than in a thousand Prodigies which we e∣very day see. Do ye think, for instance, that you ought less to wonder at that Lake which is near Guadalajara in Anda∣lousia, which foretells approaching Tempest, by most horrid bellowing and roaring, that is heard above twenty thousand Paces distance? and what do ye say of that other Lake which is found upon the very top of the Mountain Clavio, in the Comte of Roussillon near to Perpignan? It is extream deep; there's in't Fishes, both for bigness and shape that are monstrous; when a Stone is thrown into it, there are Vapours seen to come out with a mighty noise, and to ascend into the Air, and there convert into the Clouds, which produce most ter∣rible Storms, accompany'd with Thunder, Lightning and Hail. Is it not likewise true, continu'd he, in addressing himself to Don Frederick, that near the Castle of Gracimanos, in a Cavern which is call'd Judea, not far from the Bridge Talayredas, there's a Spring whose Water freezes as it drops, and grows so hard, that it becomes a perfect Stone, which cannot easily be broken, and with which in that Country they build fine Houses? You have a good Stock of Examples, said Don Fre∣derick, but if you will, I'll furnish ye with some others for your purpose. Do ye remember the Mountain of Monrayo in Arragon; If the sheep feed upon't before the sun rise they die, but if they are sick, and feed there after the Sun is up they are cur'd. I must not forget neither the Spring in the Isle of Ca∣diz, which is dry when 'tis high Water, and runs when the Tide ebbs: You shall not be the only Person, said I, in inter∣rupting him, that shall second Don Fernand in these sorts of Re∣lations, I must tell him, that in the same Isle of Cadiz, there's a certain Plant which withers upon the first appearance of the Sun, and grows green again as soon as Night comes. Ah! pret∣ty Plant, cries Don Fernand in Laughing, Well, I have enough now to be reveng'd for all the sport you have made at my Stories for this Hour together; I declare open War against you about this Plant, and if you do not send for one hither, I know what I'll believe: The facetious Humour of this Cavallero made us very pleasantly pass the Evening: but we were interrupted by my Kinswoman, who return'd out of the City, where she had spent some part of the day at her Lawyers, who was at the point of Death; he is very old, and a very knowing Man in his Profession: She told us, that all his Children stood round his Bed, and that the only thing which he recommended to 'em, was always to preserve a

good stock of Gravity; and after he had blest them, says he to 'em, what greater good can I now wish you, my dear Chidren, than to lead your whole Lives at Madrid, and never to quit this Earthly Paradice, but for the Heavenly: This may shew con∣tinu'd she, the strange Prepossession the Spaniards have for Madrid, and the Happiness they enjoy in that Court: For my part, said I, in interrupting her, I am perswaded there's a∣bundance of Vanity in that fondness that they express for their own Nation, for certainly they have too much Sense not to know, that there are many other Countries far more agreeable: It is not true, said I, in addressing my self to Don Fernand, that thô you will not say as I say, that you have the same thoughts? what my thoughts are, said he in smiling, is no rule for other folks; I must tell ye, that since my return, I am upbraided by every body with being no longer a Spaniard: But certain it is, that People being so bewitcht with the Delights and Charms of Madrid, and not having power to forsake it in any season of the Year, no body has thought of building pretty Houses in the Country whither they might sometimes retire; so that all adja∣cent parts about the City, which should be fill'd with delicious Gardens and splendid Seats look like so many little Deserts, and this is the reason also, why the City in Summer as well as in Win∣ter, is equally crowded with People: Hereupon my Kinswoman said, she would have me to the Escurial, and that it was agreed on by the Marchionesses of Palacios and La Rosa, to go two days hence; the Lady your Mother, added she, in speaking to Don Fernand designs you to make one, and I indeed to secure Don Frederick, for another, they both declar'd, that with abun∣dance of Joy, they would go this little Journey; and indeed, the next day we went to kiss Queen Mothers hand, and to know her commands for the Escurial: for you must know, 'tis the Custom, when one is to go out of Madrid, first to pay their re∣spects to the Queen. But we had not seen her since her Return. she lookt merrier than she did at Tolleda, and told us, she did not think of coming back so soon to Madrid, and that now it seem'd, as if she had never been out of it. There was brought before her a Gyant-Woman that came from the Indies: as soon as she saw her, she caus'd her to be taken away, she was so af∣frighted at her. Her Ladies would make this Colossus dance, who held in each hand two She Dwarfs that play'd upon the Castinets and the Biscay Drum, all this was ugly in the highest degree. My Kinswoman observ'd in the Queen Mothers Apartment; things which had been Don John's amongst others an admira∣ble Pendulum Clock, all set with Diamonds, he made her in

part, his Heir, in all likelyhood 'twas to testifie his regret for having troubled and vex'd her.

The Journey to the Escurial was perform'd with all imagina∣ble Satisfaction, the desire of entertaining you with it, hindred me from sending you the Letter I begun before I went thither; the same Ladies that went to Arranjus and Tolleda, were very glad to embrace the Occasion of taking the Air a little in so fine a Season; and we went first to the Pardo, which is a Royal House, the Building like the rest in Spain is handsom enough, that is, it consists of a square of foul several Appartments separated by Gal∣leries of Communication, which are supported with Pillars; the Forniture of it, is not indeed stately, but there are good Pictures, amongst others, those of the Kings of Spain, in odd sorts of Dres∣ses.

We were shew'd a little Closet, which the late King us'd to call his Beloved, because in it he was wont sometimes to enter∣tain himself with his Mistresses; this Prince who was seeming∣ly so cold and grave, that he was hardly ever seen to laugh, was really the most amorous and the pleasantest of Men. There is a Garden well enough kept, and a Park of a considerable extent, whither the King frequently goes to hunt; we were afterwards at a Convent of the Capuchins, which stands on the top of a Hill; this is a Place of great Devotion, because of a Crucifix which it seems was taken from the true Cross, and which often works Miracles: After we had said our Prayers there, we de∣scended on the other side of the Hill, to a certain Hermitage where there was a Recluse, that would neither see us, nor speak to us; but he threw a Ticket to us through his Grate, in which we found it writ, that he would recommend us to God. We were all extream weary, for we were forced to walk afoot up the Hill, and it was very hot Weather; we perceiv'd in the bottom of the Hill a very little Cottage by the side of a Brook, which runs amongst Willow Trees; we steer'd our Course that way, and when we were yet a great way off, we could see a Man and a Woman very well drest, rise up nimbly from the foot of a Tree where they were sett, and run into that Cottage and shut the Door as hastily as if they had taken us for thieves; but doubtless it was fear of being known, which made them avoid us; we went to the Place they had left; being sett on the Grass, we fell to eating some Fruit we brought with us; we were so nigh this little House, that they could easily see through their Win∣dows what we were doing; there came out a very pretty Coun∣try Lass, and with a Sea-Rush Basket addrest her self to us, and kneeling, begg'd some of the Fruit of our Collation for a Big-belly'd

Woman, that would die if we refused her. Immediate∣ly we sent her some of the fairest, and quickly after the same young Girl came again with a Gold Snuff-box, and told us the Senora of the Casita, that is the Lady of the little House, in∣treated us to accept of some Snuff for an Acknowledgment of the Favour we had done her. It is the Fashion here to present Snuff when they have a mind to express their Friendship; we stay'd so long by the Water-side, that we resolved to go no further that the Carcuela, which is another of the King's Hou∣ses, but not so handsom as the Pardo, and so neglected, that there's nothing worth commending, but the Waters; we were ill enough lodg'd there, though we laid in the very same Beds his Majesty did; and we were very lucky in taking along with us all Necessaries for Supper. After that we went into the Gardens, which are in bad Order, the Fountains run Day and Night, the Water there is so good and in such plenty, that for as little almost as one would desire, it might be made as plea∣sant a Dwelling as any is in the World. But 'tis not the Custom in this Country, from the King to private Persons, to keep se∣veral Country Houses in good Repair, they let them go to ruin, for want of some very small Reparations. Our Beds were so ill, that we were not loath to leave them early the next Morning to go to the Escurial. We went by Monareco, where the Woods begin, and a little further is the Park which belongs to the Con∣vent of the Escurial: For in effect it is one which Philip the II. built among the Mountains, that so he might the more easily get the Stone which he needed, of which there is such a prodigious Quantity, that without seeing it, one cannot conceive it, and certainly it is one of the vastest Buildings we have in Europe: We went up to it through a very long Walk of Elm Trees, which are planted in four Rows, the great Gate is stately adorn'd with divers Marble Pillars rais'd one upon another, till they reach up to the Statue of St. Lawrence which stands on the top; the King's Arms are cut upon a certain Stone which is call'd the Thunder-Stone, and is brought from Arabia, the cutting of which cost threescore thousand Crowns. It is easie to believe, that having been at so considerable a Charge for a thing so little useful, they would not spare any Cost for others which might be necessary and contribute to the Beauty of the Place. It is a great Square Pile of Building; but beyond the Square there runs out a Length, which contains the Buildings of the En∣trance, and are contriv'd to represent the Form of the Gridiron on which St. Lawrence (who is the Patron of the Monastry) suffer'd Martyrdom. It is built according to the Dorick Order,

and very plain; the Square is divided in the middle, and one of those Divisions which looks upon the Order, opens it self both ways into four other lesser Squares, which are four Cloy∣sters built also according to the Dorick Order, and who sees one of them, sees all the rest; the Building has nothing in it, either as to its Design or Architecture, that is extraordinary; that which is to be admir'd, is the Vastness of it, being Three hun∣dred and eighty Paces in the Square; for besides those four Cloysters I have mentioned, the other Division of the Square, subdivided into two, makes two other Piles of Building, one of which is, the King's Quarters, and the other is the Colledge; for there are in it abundance of Pensioners, whom the King maintains to study: The Friars that live in it are Hieronomites; this Order is unknown in France, and it is abolisht in Italy, because a certain Hieronimite Fryar attempted at Milan the Life of St. Charles Borromeo: But he did not hurt him, though he shot at him, and the Bullets pierced his Pontifical Habit; but nevertheless this Order is here in great Esteem; there are three hundred Monks in the Convent of the Escurial; they live much after the same way of the Carthusians, they speak little, and pray much, and Women never come into their Church, but be∣sides they ought to study and preach.

But there's another thing yet, which makes this Building con∣siderable, and that is, the nature of the Stone of which it is built. It was taken out of the neighbouring Quarries; it is of a grayish colour; the sharpest Air and severest Weather makes no impression on't, it does not soil or grow dirty, but constant∣ly preserves that colour it had when it was taken up. Philip II. was two and twenty years in building it, he enjoyed it thir∣teen, and then dy'd in't. This Structure cost him six Millions of Gold. Philip IV. added the Pantheon to it, that is to say a Sepulchre, like the Pantheon at Rome, contriv'd under the great Altar of the Church, all of Marble, Jasper and Porphiry, in which there are six and twenty most stately Tombs inchased in the Walls; and one goes down into it by a pair of Stairs all of Jasper. I fancy'd my self descending into some of those en∣chaunted places which our Romances and Books of Chevalry talk of. The Tabernacle, the Architecture of the Altar, the steps by which one ascends to it, the Pyx or Box in which the Host is kept, and made all of one single Agat, are so many Wonders. The Riches that are there, in precious Stones and Gold, is in∣credible. One single Cupboard of Relicks (for there are four in the four Chappels of the Church) infinitely exceeds the Trea∣sure of St. Mark's at Venice. The Ornaments of the Church

are imbroider'd with Pearls and precious Stones; and so are the Chalices and Vessels of precious Stones. The Candlesticks and the Lamps are of pure Gold. There are forty little Chappels, and as many Altars, upon which are put every day forty several Cloaths and Attires. The forepart of the great Altar is com∣pos'd of four Ranks of Jasper Pillars, and one goes up to the Altar by seventeen Steps of Porphiry Stone. The Tabernacle is beautify'd with several Pillars of Agat, and divers curious Figures of Metal and Chrystal. One can see nothing about the Tabernacle but Gold, Azur Stone, and other Stones so transpa∣rent, that through them the Sacrament (which is kept in an A∣gat Vessel) is easily perceiv'd. This Tabernacle is esteem'd at a Million of Crowns. There are eight pair of Organs, the Chairs or Seats in the Quire are made of rare Wood, which comes from the Indies, curiously wrought after the pattern of those of St. Dominick at Boulogne. The Cloysters of the Monastery are ex∣tream fine; in the middle there's a Flower Garden, and a Chap∣pel which opens four ways, whose Roof is supported with Por∣phiry Pillars, between which there are Niches, in which are pla∣ced the four Evangelists with an Angel, and the several Crea∣tures made of white Marble bigger than Nature, who throw out Torrents of Water into Marble Basins. The Chappel is arch'd with curious Architecture, and pav'd with black and white Mar∣ble. There are divers Pictures of an inestimable value, and in the Chapter-Room, which is very large, there is besides most excellent Pictures, two Bass-Reliefs all of Agat, two foot and a half long, which cannot be valued. As to the Church, it has nothing extraordinary in its Structure; it is bigger than that of the Jesuits in St. Anthony's Street at Paris, but of the same form, except that like their House, it is of the Dorick Order. Bra∣manto the famous Italian Architect, drew the Model and De∣sign of it. The King and Queen's Appartments are not stately; but Philip II. intended this only for a House of Prayer and Re∣tirement, the Church and the Library were the things he took most care to adorn. Titian the famous Painter, and divers o∣thers besides, have exhausted all their Art and Skill in curiously painting the Galleries of the Library, which indeed are admira∣ble, not only for the excellent Painting, but for a hundred thou∣sand Volumes that are there, without reckoning the Original Manuscripts of several Fathers and Doctors of the Church, which are delicately bound and gilt. You'll easily guess at the bigness of the Escurial, when I have told you that there are in it, seven∣teen Cloysters, two and twenty Courts, eleven thousand Win∣dows, above eight hundred Pillars, and an infinite number of

Parlours, Halls and Chambers. A little after the Death of Phi∣lip II. there was taken from the Fryars of the Escurial, a certain Estate in Lands (call'd Campillo) which the late King had given them; and was worth eighteen thousand Crowns per Annum, and this was done by virtue of a Clause in his Will, by which he revok'd all the immense Donations, which is his Life time he had given.

The Duke of Bragance being at Court in King Philip the Se∣cond's time, he had a mind they should go with him to the Escurial, that he might see that stately Pile of Building. And as he that had the care of shewing it to him, told him, It was built in performance of a Vow which Philip II. made at the Battel of St. Quintin, the Duke reply'd, He that made so great a Vow, must needs have a great Terror upon him. And now in mentioning this King, I remember to have heard, that Charles V. recommended to him the preservation of the three Keys of Spain. These were, the Streights-mouth, Flushing in Zealand, and Cadiz. The Turks or Moors have the first, the Dutch the second, and the English had the last, but the King of Spain soon recover'd it from them.

The Escurial is built upon a descent of some Rocks in a de∣sert and barren Place, and environ'd with Hills; the Village stands below it, and has but few Houses in't; it's in a manner always cold Weather there. The extent of the Gardens and the Park is a prodigious thing to see, in which one meets with Woods, Plains, and a vast House in the midst, in which the Keepers lodge; it abounds with all sorts of Deer and Fowl.

After having seen a Place which so highly deserves our admi∣ration, we all left it; and as we had visited the Royal Houses of Pardo and Carcuela, we return'd over the Mountains, which is a nearer way, but very troublesome. We came by Colmenar, and coasting along the little River of Guadarama, we past through Rozas and Aravac••, and arriv'd at Madrid, where we learnt that the Queen's Houshold were just going away to meet her upon the Frontier. We immediately went to the Palace to bid adiew to the Dutchess de Terra Nova, and the other Ladies. The King had made them all be mounted, that he might see after what manner they would be on the day of her Entry; for this reason all the Gardens, and Doors every way were kept close shut and guarded, and no Man was to enter there. The young Court Ladies lookt well enough, but good God! what figures were the Dutchess de Terra Nova, and Donna Maria d' Alarcon, who were the Governantes of the Queen's Maids; they rid every one upon a Mule shod with Silver, and all friz'd

with a large housing of black Velvet, like that the Physicians in Paris ride with upon their Horses. These Ladies, drest like Widdows, (which I have already describ'd to you) very old and ugly, with morose and imperious Looks, wore broad Hats, ty'd with strings under their Chins; and twenty Gentlemen which walkt a foot by their sides, held them up, lest they should fall. They would never have suffer'd these Men to have touch'd them in that manner, had not they fear'd breaking their Necks. For you must know, dear Cousin, that though every Lady has two Gentlemen Ushers, and that they go with them where ever they go, yet they never give them their Hand. They walk by their sides, and present to them their Elbows wrapt in their Cloaks, which makes their Arms look monstrous thick. The Ladies do not come near them; but that which is yet more strange, if the Queen in walking should happen to fall, unless her Ladies were near her to help her up, though there were an hundred Gentlemen there, she must be pleas'd, either to rise by her self, or lie all day upon the Ground, for none dare take her up.

We spent part of the Afternoon in looking at these Ladies; the Equipage they had was indeed very rich, but very poorly and dully contriv'd. The Dutchess of Terra Nova had alone, six Litters of Velvet of various colours, and all embroider'd, and forty Mules, whose houssings were as costly as ever I saw any. You will not hear from me again, dear Cousin, before the Queen is come hither. While the King is gone to meet her, and the whole Court is absent, my Kinswoman will go into Andalousia, about some business she has there. I might send you a short Relation of our little Journey, if I could be assur'd it would please you. I most heartily embrace you.

From Madrid this 30th of September, 1679.