The ingenious and diverting letters of the Lady -- travels into Spain. Describing the devotions, nunneries, humours, customs, laws, militia, trade, diet, and recreations of that people. : intermixt with great variety of modern adventures, and surprising accidents: being the truest and best remarks extant on that court and countrey.

LETTER XII.

HEre's a general rejoycing, since the arrival of the Mar∣quess de los Balbaces, who brought certain News that the most Christian King had granted Mademoisel to the King of Spain. He so impatiently expected these Tydings, that there was hardly an hour pass'd, that he did not ask if the Courrier was not come; and as soon as he knew it, he immediately went to hear Te Deum at our Lady d' Atocha's Church. As the Ladies do not go thither, so they are to content to dress themselves very fine, and place themselves in their Windows. I chose this, and I thought I should have been both choak'd and blind∣ed, it was so excessive dusty. I saw the King in his Coach of green Oyl-cloth; he had but a small attendance, for some twen∣ty Halbardiers cloth'd in yellow with trust Breeches like the Pa∣ges, made up his Guard, marching before and behind him. The Courtiers Coaches indeed that accompany'd him, were so numerous that they could hardly be told; the People every where crowding, even to the tops of the Houses, cry'd out Viva el Roy, Deos le Bendiga, and several added, Viva el Reina nuestra Seinnora. There was not the least House or Street with∣out

its spread Tables; every body had their Garlick, Leeks and Onions in their hands, insomuch that they perfum'd the Air with them, and they were even debauch'd with drinking their Majesty's Health in Water: For dear Cousin, though I have al∣ready mentioned it to you, yet methinks I may repeat it here, That there never was People so temperate as these, especially in Wine; and they have so strange an abhorrence for those that are guilty of Intemperance, that by their Law, a Man that can be prov'd but once to have been drunk, is refus'd for being a Witness in any Court of Justice where he is offer'd, and after a sharp reproof is sent away. And if it happen, that one calls another Boracho, that is Drunkard, this Injury is sure to be re∣veng'd with Murther.

That Night the King was at Antocha; we illuminated all our Houses with great Flamboys of white Wax which they call Ha∣chas; they are longer than those that are us'd at Paris, to light the Coaches at night, but withal, they are a great deal dearer, not only because the Wax is brought at great Charges from o∣ther Parts of the World, but also because there is a prodigious quantity of it consum'd in Spain. And when they make Illu∣minations, they are not contented to set up four or six Flam∣boys, but they must put two in every Balcony, and two at each Window up to the highest Story; there are some Houses which thus require four or five hundred. Every where there were Bonefires made, and we went to the Palace to see a Masquerade of a hundred and fifty Lords which they said was to be there. I cannot imagine why they call this Diversion by that Name, for they were not at all maskt; commonly they choose the darkest Night. All the Courtiers are mounted upon their finest Horses, every Horse was covered with Silver Gauze and Hou∣sings embroider'd with Gold and Pearl. The Cavalleros were cloath'd in Black, with colour'd Taby Sleeves, embroider'd with Silk and Bugles; they wore little Hatts button'd up with Dia∣monds, and in them a Plume of Feathers, they had rich Scarfes and many Jewels; but with all this, their Black Cloaks and their ugly Collars strangely disfigure them. They ride a Horseback like the Turks and Moors, that is, as they call it a Genita, their Stirrups are so short that their knees are even with, and rest upon the Tops of the Horses shoulders. I cannot yet reconcile my Eyes to this Fashion; they say, that thus they can better raise and put themselves forth against any that assaults them. But to return to the Masquerade, they all met together at an appointed Place, which usually is at one of the Gates of the City. The Streets through which they were to go, were all strewed

with Sand, and on each side there was a kind of Chaffing dishes set upon Poles, which beside the white Wax Flamboys gave a great Light, there were also placed several very clear Lanthorns in Windows, which made a very fine Show. Every Cavallero had a great many Footmen, which were cloath'd in Cloath of Gold and Silver; they went by their Masters sides with Flamboys. The Masters marcht four in a rank very softly, each holding a Flamboy also; they went all over the City attended with Trumpets, Timbrels, Bagpipes and Flutes, and when they came to the Palace which was illuminated, and the Court co∣vered with Sand, they took several Turns, and run and pusht against one another with a Design to throw each other down with these tricks. Prince Alexander de Parma, who is of a prodigious bigness fell down, and the fall of him made as great a noise as the shooting of a moderate high-hill, they had much ado to carry him off, for he was grievously bruis'd with his Fall; there were several of them with their great Spectacles on, but particularly the Marquess D' Astorgas, who does not only wear them for gravity sake, but for need, for he is old; but yet for all that, he is frolicksom, he will be Meyor Domo to the young Queen, and he is a Grandee of Spain.

And now I speak of a Grandee of Spain, Don Fernand de Tolledo, told me t'other day a thing pleasant enough. His Father in Law, who is the Marquess De Palacios, lives at a horrid pro∣fuse rate, for it seems he is one of those profest Gallants of the Ladies of the Pallace, and to arrive to that, one must both have a great deal of Wit, and shew abundance of Magnificence, I mean a certain peculiar sort of Wit that's neat and refin'd, he must have choice Phrases and Expressions, and some ways and modes not common, he must understand how to write both in Prose and Verse, and that too better than another. In a word, one must both talk and do in this Pallace-Gallantry af∣ter quite another rate than is us'd in the City. But to return to the Marquess De Palacios. There was a publick Festival appointed by the King, this Marquess wanted Money to ap∣pear there, he is Lord of several Towns, it came into his head to go down post to them; assoon as he arriv'd, at the first, he caus'd Papers to be set up, That all those of that Town which desir'd to be made Grandees, should immediately come to him. There was not either Justice, Burgess or Tradesman, which was not presently fill'd with vehement Ambitious de∣sires for the Grandeza his House was crowded with all sorts of People, he agreed with them every one severally in private, and got as much as he could of them, and afterwards he made

them all be covered before him, and gave them Patents in Form just as the King does, when he makes any one a Grandee. His Invention succeeded two well in the first Town, not to practise it in the rest: He found amongst them the same Dis∣position to give him Money, that through his means they might be Grandees, with this trick, he got a considerable Sum, and away he comes, and makes a splendid Shew at Court. But as a Man is never without Enemies, so there were some Per∣sons that had a mind to make use of this pleasant Frolick to put him out of the King's Favour. His Majesty was told of it, and the Marquis justified himself well enough, in saying all those to whom he had granted permission to be covered before him, being born his Vassals, they ow'd more respect than to dare to take this liberty without his leave, and that therefore he had made them Grandees, as to himself. And after this the thing was only lookt upon as a merry jest.

This Marquess comes often to see us, and as he belong'd to the late Court, so Yesterday he told me, that a famous Astrologer being one day with the late King in the Terrass-walk of the Pallace, the King askt him the height of that Place, he gaz'd up into the Air, and nam'd a certain Height. The King pri∣ately order'd them to raise the Pavement of the Terrass about three or four fingers, and in the Night it was done. The next Morning he caus'd the Astrologer to come to him, and being up∣on the Terrass with him, says he to him, I spoke last night of the height you told me of this Walk, but there was some that maintain'd that you were mistaken, Sir, says he, I dare say, I was not mistaken; But consider it well says the King, and af∣terwards we'll him asham'd, which boasts himself to be a more knowing Man than you. Immediately he began again to make his Observations, the King saw him change colour, and seem to be at a great loss; but at last he drew nigh the King, and said, what I told your Majesty Yesterday was true, but to day I find, that either the Terrass is rais'd, or the Heavens are sunk down a little lower. The King smil'd, and told him the trick he had put upon him.

That I may give you an Account of other matters, I must tell you, that the King has in his Family three Persons which by way of Eminency are call'd, the great Officers, the Mayor Domo Mayor, the Sumiller of the Body, and the Master of the Horse. These three Places are thus distinguisht, the Mayor Do∣mo commands in the Pallace, the Business of the Sumiller of the Body, is in the King's Chamber, and the Master of the Horse, orders all things in every Place, except the Pallace.

After these come the Gentlemen of the Kings Bed-chamber, they wear at their Girdle for a mark of their Dignity, a gold∣en Key. There are three sorts of these Keys; the first, gives the Employment of the Gentleman of the Bed-chamber; the second, the Entrance with the Employment; and the third is call'd, Clavae Capona, which only gives Entrance into the Anti-chamber. The Number of these Gentlemen is great, there are Forty of those for Service, which take it in turns every day, and for the most part they are Grandees of Spain. The Mayor Domo, that is to say, the Steward in Ordinary, have the same Access as the Gentlmen of the Bed-chamber. The Persons of highest Quality fill up these Places, for the most part they are the second Sons of the Grandees, they wait in turns every Week, and when the High-Steward is absent, they are invest∣ed with his Power, these also introduce Foreign Ministers when they have Audience, there are eight of them, sometimes more, but seldom fewer.

The King hath three Companies for his Guards, but they have not any thing that agrees with one another. The Mar∣quess De Falces commands the Flemish or Burgundian Guard, it consists of a hundred Halbardiers, and although here, they call them the Yeomen of the Guard; yet they may be call'd the Life Guard; the German Guard consists of the same Number, Don Pedro D' Arragon is Captain of it, the Spanish Guard is also com∣pos'd of a hundred Halberdiers, and are commanded by the Count De los Arcos. He is likewise Captain of another Company of a hundred Spaniards, call'd the Guards of the Lancilla, and this never appears, but at great Ceremonies, and at the Funerals of Kings. The Affairs of the State are manag'd by a Chief Minister which they call Privado, he hath under him a Secretary of State, whose Office is in the Pallace. All Business that come to the King and the Minister, ought to pass directly through his hands, and as he dispatches also whatever the King orders, so he is call'd Secretario del despacho Ʋniversal.

The Council of State, and divers other Councils examine all matters, and the King or the Chief Minister, afterwards de∣termine them, there are a great many Counsellors: Here fol∣low the Names of those which at present compose the Coun∣cil of State, Viz. The Constable De Castile of the Family of the Valesaco's, is the President, the Duke D' Albe, the Duke De Medicina Celi, Don Pedro D' Arragon, the Admiral of Cast∣ile, the Marquess D' Astorgas, the Prince De Stillano, the Duke D' Ossona, the Count De Chinchon, Don Vincent Gouzaga, Prince De Guastalla, Don Lewis Portocarrero Cardinal Archbishop of

Tolledo, the Marquess De Liches, the Marquess De los Balbares Don Diego Sarmituto, Don Melchios Navarra, the Marquess De Losveler, the Marquess De Mansera, and the Duke D' Albur∣querque.

Besides This Council, which is the principal, there is that of the Inquisition of War, of the Orders of Arragon, of the In∣dies, of Italy, of Hazienda, of the Croisado, and of Flanders, there is also the Chamber of Castile, of the Alcaides de Corta, of the Contaduria, D' Aposento, Delos Bosques Reales, De Mil∣liones, and De Competancias. But do not think, dear Kinswo∣man, that the Salleries and Profits of those Places are small. For instance, The Counsellors of the Council of the Indies, make from eighteen to twenty thousand Crowns a Year of their Places. And here 'tis pertinent to tell you, that 'tis thought no Places are sold in this Countrey, at least it is not known; in in all appearace they are bestow'd upon Merit or Birth, but yet underhand, there are such considerable Presents made, that to get a Vice Royalty, they'll give Five thousand Pistols, and sometimes more. That which would be call'd Buying in ano∣ther Countrey, at Madrid is term'd giving a Regalio, that is, making a Present, and one is equivalent to the other, with this difference, that a Place, or a Government which one buys, is yours as long as you live, and sometimes passes by Inheritance to your Children, either by natural Right, or the Concession of the Prince; but in Spain, they enjoy a Place which cost them very dear, only three or five Years at most. It is easie to believe that those who advance so much, are very certain to reimburse themselves both Principal and Interest. From this Practice the People are horribly opprest, they have perpe∣tually upon them, either a new Vice Roy, or Governour, which comes from draining himself of all the ready-Money which he could either make of his own and sometimes of his Friends, to bribe the Court. Thus he comes hungry, and he has but a short time to enrich himself, and so the poor People are on all hands pillaged, without so much as being able to have their Com∣plaints heard. But it is yet quite another thing in the Indies, where Gold is so plentiful, and they are so far from the King and his Ministers. It is certain they bring from thence im∣mense Sums, as I think, I have already intimated to you, even the Religious as they call them, who are sent to preach there, return not without forty and fifty thousand Crowns, which they have heap'd up in four or five Years time; so notwith∣standing their Vow of Poverty, they find out the secret of grow∣ing rich; and during their Life they are suffer'd to enjoy the Fruit of their Mission.

The Monasteries here, have yet another piece of Craft, which commonly succeeds, when a Religieus Person or Fryer happens to be the only Son. If his Father is rich, they beg him to leave his Estate to the Convent, where his Son has ta∣ken the Habit, upon condition that he shall manage and en∣joy it whilst he lives, but after his Death that the Monastery shall inherit it, and put up Prayers and say Masses for the Fa∣ther and the Son. By this means there are profes'd Fryars which have ten thousand Crowns a Year, at their disposal. This Affluence in a Countrey where Reason has put little pow∣er over the Affections, does not always make them more ho∣ly; and if there are any that use it well, there are abundance which abuse it.

It is known, that every year there comes from the Indies, above five and thirty Millions of Crowns, but yet not a quarter part of this ever goes into the King of Spain's Coffers. These Treasures spread themselves over all Europe, the French, English, Dutch, and the Genoeses, draw away the best shares of it. Methinks, this does not suit with the refin'd Policy of the Spaniards, to waste their own Subjects in digging Gold out of the Mines, to let other Nations, with whom they are often at War, reap the Profit; but the natural Laziness which hin∣ders them from working, and to have at home Manufactures of their of their own, obliges them to have recourse to those, who can furnish their Countrey with the Merchandizes they want.

As Strangers dare not venture to go there, because it is upon no less penalty than hanging, so they contrive to send their effects in the Names of the Spanish Merchants, with whom they meet with all the Fidelity imaginable; and if the King would, he could not hinder Strangers from receiving what is properly theirs; for the Spaniards upon this occasion, had rather loose their Lives, than any wrong should come to ano∣ther. There's one thing remarkable, and that is, when the Flota comes to an Anchor at Cadiz, there are Men who make publick profession to assist in cheating the King of his Customs upon Silver and other Merchandizes. It is as much their Trade and Livelyhood, as for a Banker to deal in Money. They call them Metadors; and as much Knaves as they are towards the King, yet one must do them the right to say, they are not so to the private men which agree with them for a certain reward securely to lodge their Silver in such a place of the City as they shall desire. And this practice is so certain and safe, that one never hears of any that have violated their Trust: It

were easie to punish these men for the Frauds they are guilty of against the King, but there would be Inconveniencies to the prejudice of Trade, perhaps far greater, than the Punish∣ments would bring Advantage; so that the Government and Magistrates take no notice of what passes. There might also be an easie remedy found out to hinder the King from losing all upon this occasion; and that is, to abate the Duties a little, which indeed are very high, and so what is given to these Me∣tadors, and somewhat more, might be paid to the Cotratacti∣on, for naturally the Merchants do not love cheating, and are continually afraid of paying at once, what they have been sa∣ving for half a score Voyages; but 'tis the humour of the Spaniards, To have all or nothing, and very often they have no∣thing. As to Madrid, it is impossible to find there any great∣er Robbers and Cheats than the Magistrates and Officers them∣selves; these are the Men, that with Impunity appropriate to themselves the Kings Customs, and who cheat him after such a rate, that 'tis no wonder if he so often wants Money: but they are not satisfied with cheating their Sovereign, they must also abuse and pillage the People; and although the Laws of this Nation are not only very just, but equitable, yet no body seems to be sensible of them: Those very Persons into whose Hands they are put, and who are set on purpose to execute them, are the first that break and corrupt them.

If you'll but give Money to an Alcalde, or to an Alguazil, you may have the most innocent Person in the World arrested or seized, and then thrown into some nasty dark hole of a Prison, and there perish with hunger, without any proceeding or coming to a Tryal, and wthout any Order or Degree; and when the poor wretch is let out of Prison, he must not so much as think of doing himself right against this wicked Officer of Justice. This sort of People are generally much favour'd e∣very where, but here they are beyond all measure; and righteous Judges in this Country are more scarce than in any Country whatever.

Thieves, Murderers, Poysoners, and the greatest Criminals imaginable, remain safe and quiet at Madrid, provided they are not rich, for if they be, they are sure to be disturb'd for the sake of that.

They do not judge Criminal Matters above twice or thrice a year; it is with the greatest difficulty that they bring them∣selves to cause any Criminal to dye, who is, say they, a man like them, their Country-man, and the King's Subject; they send most either to the Mines, or to the Gallies, and when a∣ny

Wretch is condemned to be hang'd, he is carry'd upon an Ass, with his Face to the Tail; he is cloath'd in black, and a Scaffold is erected for him, that he may make a Speech to the People, who are all upon their Knees, and in Tears, beating themselves upon their Breasts: After he has spent what time he will in his Harangue, he is dispatch'd with a great deal of Gravity; and as these Examples of Justice are very rare, so they make a mighty impression upon the Spectators.

Notwithstanding the vast Riches, and the excessive haughti∣ness and Presumption of the great Lords, yet they obey the least Order of the King, with that exactness and Respect which cannot be sufficiently prais'd. Upon the first Command, they depart, they return, go to Prison, or into Banishment, with∣out murmuring. It is not possible to find a more perfect Sub∣mission and Obedience, nor a more sincere Love, than that of the Spaniards for their King. This Name is Sacred with them, and to bring them to whatever one has a mind, it is sufficient to say, The King Wills it; 'tis under his Name, that the poor People of both the Castilles are so horribly opprest with Taxes: the other Kingdoms or Provinces are not so loaded, but boast themselves for the most part, that they are a free People, and pay but what they have a mind to.

I have already hinted to you, dear Cousin, that in every thing they exactly follow the Politicks of Charles V. without considering that the difference of times makes a mighty altera∣tion in the Events of things, although they may seem to be alike, and in the same Circumstances; and that what with∣out the imputation of rashness might have been undertaken 120 years ago under a flourishing Reign, would be impudent to practise now under a Reign that is far less so: but a vanity that is natural to them, hinders them from seeing, that Pro∣vidence sometimes permits Empires, as well as particular Fami∣lies, to have their Revolutions and Periods. The Spaniards believe themselves to be just the same People, and in the same Circumstances they ever were; but though I never knew their Ancestors, yet I dare say they deceive themselves.

But not to make any farther Reflexions, which perhaps are too serious and high for me, I will tell you, that here's a ge∣neral rejoycing at Madrid for the arrival of the Flota from the Indies. As 'tis not their humour here to treasure up Wealth, so this prodigious quantity of Silver, which comes all at a lump, is spread over all the World. One would think that these immense Summs cost nothing, and that it is Money which chance sent them. Hereupon the great Lords summon

their Creditors, and pay them with a profuseness, which yet without lying, has something in't that is both noble and very generous; for there are but few Countries where Liberality is so natural, as 'tis in this; and I must also add, that they are patient even to admiration. They have been known to endure most long and toilsome Sieges, in which besides the Fatigues of War, they had nothing to support them but Bread made of rotten Corn, and stinking Water for their Drink; and yet there are no Men in the World more nice about good Water. I say, notwithstanding all this, and that they have been ex∣pos'd to the Severities of the Weather, were half naked, and had hard Lodging, yet in spight of all these things, they have been found more brave and couragious, than when they en∣joy'd Plenty and Prosperity. It is true, that that Temperance which is so natural to them, is a mighty help to them to en∣dure hunger when they are forc'd to it; they eat very little, and scarcely will they drink any Wine. The Custom they have of eating all alone, contributes something to make them so fru∣gal; for indeed, neither their Wives, nor their Children, ever eat with them. The Master has his Table to himself, and the Mistress with her Children sit on the Floor upon a Carpet, after the Turkish and Moorish way. They seldom or never invite their Friends to feast together, so that they are not guilty of a∣ny excess. Upon this account, it is their saying, That they only eat to live, whereas there are People, which only live to eat. Nevertheless, there are some rational People, which find this affectation too great; and as they admit of little familiarity in Conversation, so they perpetually live at a distance, and as 'twere in Ceremony with one another, without enjoying that freedom which makes that true Union, and produces that de∣sirable openness of Heart.

This great Retirement gives them up to a thousand Illusions, which they call Philosophy; it makes them singular, dull, fan∣tastick, melancholy and jealous; whereas if they govern'd them∣selves otherwise, there's nothing they would not be capable of, since they have a wonderful vigour of Mind, an excellent Memory, good Sense, a solid Judgment, and great Patience; than which, there needs no more to make a Man wise, to grow in Perfection, to be agreeable in Conversation, and to distin∣guish himself from the most polite Nation. But they are so far from being what naturally they might be, though at never so little pains, that they affect a certain Indolency which they call greatness of Mind; they neglect their most important business, and the advancement of their Fortunes. Provision for the fu∣ture,

gives them not the least disturbance; the only matter they are not indifferent in, is Jealousie; they improve that to the utmost, the bare suspicion is enough to make them stab their Wife or their Mistress. Their Passion of Love is always furious, and yet the Women please themselves in it; they say, they would not for all the mischief that may befall them, have them less sensible of their unfaithfulness; that their desperate Temper is a certain proof of a true Passion, and that they themselves are not more moderate when they are in Love. They leave nothing unattempted to be reveng'd of those they love, if they forsake them without cause; so that these sort of amorous Engagements have commonly a fatal end. For in∣stance, not long since, a Woman of Quality, who had cause to complain of her Gallant, contriv'd to get him into a House where she commanded, and after she had sufficiently reproach'd him, against which he did but weakly defend himself, for he was guilty; she presented to him a Ponyard, and a Cup of poy∣son'd Chocolate, leaving him only the liberty which sort of Death he would choose: He did not waste one minute to move her pitty, he very well saw, that in this Place she was the strongest, so that he tamely drank off the Chocolate without leaving a drop. After he had drunk it, says he to her, it had been better if you had put a little more Sugar in't, for the Poy∣son made it very bitter; remember to do so the next time you prepare another. He was immediately seiz'd with Convul∣sions; it was very violent Poyson, and kill'd him in an hours time; and for all this Lady still lov'd him passionately, yet she had the barbarity not to stir from him till he was dead.

The Venetian Ambassador, who is a very well accomplish'd Man, being lately at home, they brought him word, that a Lady cover'd with a Mantle desir'd to speak with him, and that she hid her self so close, they could not possibly see what she was; she had with her two Gentlemen Ushers, and a conside∣rable Attendance. He invited her to his Chamber of Audience, and she desir'd he would cause every body to go out. When she was alone with him, she unveil'd her self, and appear'd to him extream handsom. I am of an Illustrious Family, says she to him, my Name is Donna Blanca de Gusman; I have despis'd all the Laws of Decency, in Favour of that Passion I have for you; I came to declare it to you, my Lord, and to tell you, that I must needs remain here this Night. From such an impudent Speech, the Ambassador could not in the least doubt, that this was some Tilt that had borrow'd a great Name, to draw him into some Snare: but yet with abundance of kindness, he told her, that

till now he had never thought himself unhappy in the Service of the Republick, that he could wish he were not an Ambassa∣dor, that so he might embrace the Favour she offer'd him; but that being in such a Station, there was little likelihood that he could give Entertainment to a Person of her Eminent Quality, that this might bring him into great trouble, and therefore beg'd her that she would withdraw. Immediately she was like a Fury, and after she had revil'd and reproach'd him, she drew out a Stilletto, and run upon him to have stab'd him. He easily prevented her, and having call'd one of his Gentlemen, bid him give five or six Pistols to this Woman. She so little de∣serv'd this Generosity, and it so appeas'd her, that she really told him, she was one of those Creatures he took her for, and that the reason why she had been so desperate, was, that the Gentlemen Ushers, who waited for her below, were her Gal∣lants, and would have broke her bones if she had made no ad∣vantage of the Plot they had laid; and that besides, she was to pay for the Equipage she came in, which was hir'd purposely for this design, and that she had much rather have dy'd, than to have endur'd all those Abuses. The Ambassador was so taken with her pleasant Confession, that he caus'd ten Pistols more to be given her; for, says he to her, since so many honest Folks must share with you, your part will be too small. She succeeded so well here, that she went directly to the French Embassadors; but she was not so courteously receiv'd there: For upon the first Apprehension of her Design, she and her Attendance escapt very narrowly of being entertain'd with the Strapado. He gave her not a Sons, happy was she that got out as she came in, for he had an aversion for all these Creatures.

This Morning we tarried a while in the Placa Mayor, for an Answer of a Message my Kinswoman had sent to a Gentleman that dwelt there. In this Place Fish is sold, and there was a Woman which had some little bits of Salmon to sell, which she said was fresh; she made a horrid noise in crying it, and in calling Customers to buy it, at last comes a Shooemaker, which I knew for such, because she call'd him Sinior Capatcro; he ask her for a Pound of her Salmon (and by the way, you must ob∣serve, that every thing here is bought by the pound, even Wood and Charcoal) says she to him, You do not enquire after the price, because you think 'tis cheap, but do not deceive your self, I assure you, I must have a Crown for every pound. The Shoomaker vext that she questioned his thoughts and ability, with an angry tone said to her, had it been very cheap, I would have had but one pound, but since 'tis dear, I'll have three, and im∣mediately

he gives her three Crowns, and then thrusting down his little Hat (for you must know that the Tradesmen wear them as narrow as the People of Quality wear them broad, and turning up his Mustachios by way of Rodamentade, he rais'd the point of his formidable Sword almost to the top of his shoul∣der, and haughtily lookt at us, having well observ'd that we took notice of him and overheard his Discourse and were Stran∣gers; but the pleasantness of the thing lies here, perhaps these three Crowns was all that ever this vain-glorious Fool had in the World, that this was his whole Weeks profit, and that to morrow, himself, his Wife and poor Children, would have a more severe Fast, than with Bread and Water; but such is the vain humour of these People here; nay there are some of them which will take the legs of a Capon, and will let them hang down under their Cloaks, that they may look as if they really had a Capon, whilst they have nothing but the Legs and Feet.

You cannot see a Joyner, a Sadler, or other sort of Shop∣keeper, without his Velvet and Sattin Suit like the Kings, with his long Rapier and Dagger, and his Guattar hung up in his Shop. They work as little as ever they can, for I have more than once told you, that they are naturally lazy. Indeed no∣thing but over-ruling Necessity drives them to do any thing at all, and then they work upon Sundays and other Festivals, without any scruple, as well as upon any other Day; and afterwards they carry their Goods abroad. If 'tis a Shoomaker and he has two Prentices, he takes them both with him, and each of them carry a Shooe, nay if he has three, they must all go along with him, and 'tis with much ado, that he'll stoop to try the Shooes he made; when he has done, he goes and sits him down in the Sun (which is call'd the Spaniard's Fire) with a Company of such idle Fellows as himself, and there with a sovereign Authority they determine matters of State, and settle the Interest of Prin∣ces; very often they fall out about them, some one of them that takes himself to be a more able Politician than the rest, will have them yield to his Judgment, but another as conceited as himself will not submit, and so they fall together by the Ears without Mercy. I was two days ago to see the Danish Embas∣sador's Lady, and there was brought in thither a poor Wretch which was just then wounded in the Street; he was a Coster∣monger, and it seems had maintain'd that the Grand Senior would not be reckoned a cunning Politician if he did not cause his Brother to be strangled; another to whom that young Prince was not so displeasing, stood up in his defence, and thereupon these two fell a fighting; but after all, to give them their due,

all these People talk of Government and Politicks with a great deal of Judgment, and give good Reasons for what they say.

Here is in this City several Houses which are a sort of Acade∣mies, where People meets some to Play, and others for Conver∣sation. They play there with great honesty, and let them lose what Sum they will upon Honour, they never fail to pay it in twenty four hours. If there should be any failure, their Ho∣nour and Reputation is for ever lost. No Reason whatsoever will be admitted against the necessity of paying in that time. They play there very high and very fairly, without noise or shewing the least vexation or concern: If they win, it is the Cu∣stom to give the Barato; this I think is also us'd in Italy, that is to say, you give Money to those that are present, to some more to others less, and this whether you know them or no. He to whom you present the Barato must never refuse it, let him be a hundred times richer and better Quality than the Donour, nay one may demand it of a Gamester that is winning, and he'll not deny to give it. There are People that have no other Subsistance than this; but yet this is no good Custom, for though a Man does win, yet sometimes he hardly carries any thing of his gains away with him, and if he begins to play again, he often loses his own.

Further, if a Man is found to have cheated, he has as good be∣times to forsake all Company; for no honest Person will have any thing to do with him, and if he is taken in the fact, he may think himself happy if he comes off with some Cuchillades, that is, some Cuts, but not Thrusts with a Sword.

As to the Conversation in these Academies, there's of it that is very ingenious, and very knowing Persons that frequent them; for in a word, they are here just as in other Places, and there are some that write very fine things. What they call Novels seem to me to be of a Stile, and to have an Air that charms; they never advance any thing but what's probable, and the Sub∣jects they take is so well manag'd, and their Narration so con∣cise and plain, neither mean nor lofty, that one must needs grant they have a Genius, which surpasses all others, in these sort of pieces. I will endeavour to get some of this kind, and will translate and send them to you, that so you may judge of them your self. As I have not capacity enough to speak of things which treat of more sublime matters, so shall I say no∣thing of them till I have been inform'd by those that are com∣petent Judges, and then I shall only pretend to be their Eccho. But after all I must needs say, that I think them extravagant in their Elogies, and that in them they keep not near to probabi∣lity, their Imagination, which is very lively and active, some∣times

runs too fast. I was t'other day reading in a Book, where speaking of Philip the VI. the Author said, that his Vertues and great Qualities were so many, that there was not Paper enough in the World to write them down; that a common Pen was not worthy to describe such divine things, and therefore they de∣serv'd to be writ by the Rays of the Sun upon the surface of the Heavens. You'll grant me that this is really losing a Mans self in the Clouds, and that with endeavouring to exalt his Hero, our poor Author falls and breaks his own neck. Their Books are very ill printed, rheir Paper is not white, and they are very ill bound, being cover'd with Parchment or Sheep-skin Leather.

I must not forget to tell you one thing, and 'tis very material, and that is the Policy of the Spaniards, which perswades them rather to be at the charge of a hundred false Informations, than to neglect the Opportunity of receiving one true Advice: nei∣ther the distance of the Country from whence they come, nor their Agents, are suspected by them, they will know every thing and liberally recompense those that serve them, nay they'll hardly tarry till the Service is accepted, before they will reward them. You cannot believe how much advantage this Maxim has gain'd them, they have been sometimes taken for Fools, but that has not dis∣couraged them, and in the end they always had what they in∣tended. It is likewise true, that though they have but very slender ground to beg a favour of the King, yet provided they are not disheartned with Repulses, but pursue their first Design with Perseverance, sooner or later they obtain what they wisht for. The Ministers of State think 'tis not suitable to the Grandeur of so mighty a Monarch to refuse a small matter; and tho there's but little Justice in pretending to a favour which one has not de∣served by some Service, yet if it is sued for without intermission, it is always obtain'd. I see Examples of it every day.

I have not yet told you, dear Cousin, that upon my Arrival here, all the Ladies did me the Honour to visit me first. It is the Custom here to prevent Strangers, when once they know they are of Quality and their good Conduct, concerning both which they are very nice. When I return'd them their Visit, every one made me a Present; sometimes in one House I re∣ceiv'd a Dozen, for even the Children of four Years old will treat you. I was presented with great Baskets of gilt Silver, a∣dorn'd with Corral curiously wrought in Flowers; these are made at Naples and Millan: I had also Amber Boxes set with Gold, ennammell'd and full of Pastils; divers presented me with Gloves and with Silk-Stockings and Garters in abundance; but these Gloves are singular, in that they are as short as the

Mens, for the Women wear their Sleeves down to their Wrists, the Fingers are so long that they look as if they were nothing else, and are ridiculous: The Stockings are made of Polo, that is raw Silk; they are made so short and so little in the Foot, that I have seen several Babies that they would not fit; the Garters are of a broad Ribbond, made very light and thin, like those our Peasants give at their Weddings; they are trim'd at each end with some English Thread Lace. They presented me also with several Cups of that Mineral Earth, and a thousand other things of this kind. If ever I go from hence, and make another Journey hither, it will be my turn to present: But alass! any thing pleases them, Needles, Pins, a little Ribbond, but above all, any thing made of their false Stones ravishes them with Joy; they that have so many that are right and so excel∣lent, yet wear a prodigious quantity of these false ones, which in reality are nothing neither, but bitts of Glass sett, and just like those our Chimney-sweepers sell to our Provincials, who never saw more than their Curate and their Flock. The Ladies of the greatest Quality are loaded with these false Stones, which they buy at dear rates; and when I askt them why they were so fond of these conterfeit Diamonds, they told me it was because they could have of them as big as they desir'd. And indeed they have of them in their Pendants, as big as an Egg, and all these come to them either from France or Italy; for as I have told you, few things are made at Madrid, Idleness reigns too much there.

There's no good Painters in this City, the greatest part of those that draw, are not of this Country; they are either Flem∣mings, Italians or French, which come and settle here; but yet they do not grow rich, for Money does not come and move in the circle of Trade. For my part, I must needs say, I never saw less stirring. My Kinswoman receives pretty considerable Sums all in Quartos; it is Copper Money, and as nasty as our Doubles; but as bad as 'tis, yet it com•••• ••ut of the Royal Trea∣sure; it is deliver'd by Weight (for how is't possible to count such sorry stuff?) and Men bring it upon their backs in great matted Baskets; when these sort of Payments come, the whole House is employ'd for eight days together in taking an Account of these Quartos, in three or four thousand Crowns, there's not a hundred Pistols, either in Gold or Silver.

They have here great numbers of Slaves, which are bought and sold at great rates, these are Moors and Turks; there are some of them worth four or five hundred Crowns; heretofore they had power of Life and Death over them, a Patron might

have killed his Slave as he might have kill'd a Dog; but it was thought that these Barbarities did not agree with the Maxims of the Christian Religion, and now that Practice is forbid; but yet they beat them till they cripple them, without ever being call'd to account for't. It's true, there are but few Masters that are thus severe; and if a Man happen to love his female Slave, and she grants his desires, she becomes immediately free. As to the other Domesticks, it would be somewhat dangerous to use them ill; they pretend for the most part, to be of as good Families as the Masters they serve; and if they should be a∣bus'd, they would be in a capacity to revenge themselves, either by Treacherously Murdering, or Poysoning of them; there are many Examples of this, they say, that a Man ought not to in∣sult over them, because they are poor, that though they are reduced to serve, yet they have not renounc'd their Honour; and that they should forfeit it, if they should take blows from any body whatever.

The Beggars are even proud, and when they ask an Alms, it is in an imperious and domineering way; if one refuses them, it must be done civilly, in saying to them, Cavallero, Per∣done, usted, no tenga moneda; that is, Pardon me Cavallero, I have no Money. If you give them a rough Denial, they'll be∣gin to argue with you, and undertake to prove to you, that that you do not deserve that Estate God has blest you with, and will never let you alone; but if one speaks courteously to them, they seem well enough content and desist.

The Spaniards are naturally gentle and kind; they marry their Slaves, and if it be with another Slave, the Children they have are not free, but like their Fathers, are subject to the Pa∣tron; but if these Children marry, their Issue shall not be Slaves. And so it is, if a Woman Slave marry a Free-man, their Chil∣dren follow the Condition of the Father. One is mighty well serv'd by these unhappy Wretches; they are far more diligent, laborious and humble than other Servants; there are few of them that will change their Religion. I have one that is not above nine years old; she is as black as Jett, and would be reckon'd in her own Country a wonderful Beauty, for her Nose is quite flat, her Lips prodigiously thick, her Eyes of a white and red colour, and her Teeth admirable, in Europe as well as in Africa. She understands not a word of any other Language than her own; her Name is Zayde, we have got her baptized; this young Christian has been so us'd to throw off her white Mantle, and to be quite naked when she was expos'd to sale, that I have had much ado to hinder her from doing so now;

and t'other day, when we had a great deal of Company, I sent for her; and truly Mrs. Zayde was pleas'd to appear before them all with her little black Body as naked as she was born. I am resolved to have her whipt, to make her know that this sort of fashion does not please me, for there is no other way to make her understand. Those that sold her to me, told me she was a Girl of Quality, and the poor Child will come often and fall down on her Knees before me, hold her hands together, cry, and point towards her Country; I would willingly send her thither, if she could there be a Christian; but this impossibility obliges me to keep her. I would fain understand her, for I be∣lieve she is witty, all her Actions shew it; she dances after her fashion, and 'tis so pleasantly, that she makes us very merry. I make her wear white Patches, with which she is mightily taken. She is drest as they are at Moroco, that is, with a short Gown almost without any plights, great Shift-sleeves of fine Cloth, strip'd with different colours, like those of our Bohemians or Gypsies; a pair of Stays which are only made of a slip of Crim∣son Velvet with a gold ground, and are made fast at the sides with silver Buckles and Buttons, and a Mantle of very fine white woollen stuff, very large and long, in which she wraps her self, and with one corner of it covers her Head. This dress is handsome enough; her short Hair, which looks like Wool, is cut in several places, on each side like a Half-moon, on the the Crown a Circle, and before a Heart; she cost me twenty Pistols, my Daughter hath made her Governess of her Marmo∣sett; it is the little Monkey which the Arch-bishop of Burgos presented to her. I do assure you, that Zayde and the Marmo∣sett are well met, and understand one another very well.

But to come to other things, here's arriv'd a Man which has been fetch'd from the farthest parts of Galicia; he is such a Saint, that he has done many Miracles, as 'tis pretended. The Marchioness de Los Velez, heretofore Governess of the King, was like to dye, and she sent to have him come in all haste, but they were so long upon the Journey, that she was well again before he came. It was known what day he would arrive, and while she was then expecting him, Don Fernand de Tolleda, who is her Nephew, and had not seen her since his return from Flanders, because of her having been sick; knowing that she was then much better, happen'd to go to her House much about the time the Saint of Galitia was to be there. The Marchioness's People seeing him, and not knowing him at all, (for he had been absent several years) without considering that there were few Men of his Age and Looks so happy as to work Miracles,

concluded, at first sight, that he was the Saint: immediately they threw open the great door, and rung the Bell for the sig∣nal, as the Marchioness had order'd them; all the Duennas and the Maids came to receive him with every one a Wax-Candle in her hand; several of them fell upon their Knees, and would not let him stir till he had given them his blessing. He thought they made a fool of him, to give him such a reception; he knew not whether he was bewitch'd, or whether he dreamt; and do what he could, he could not perswade himself that all this was real; it was to no purpose to talk to them, they mind∣ed him not at all, the noise and the crowd was so great; they brought their Beads to touch him, and those that were far off him, threw them at his Head, with a hundred Medals fasten'd to them. The most zealous began to cut his Cloak and his Cloaths; and now his fear began to be very great, lest through a desire to multiply his Relicks, they did not cut him to pieces. The Marchioness de Los Veloz, who was carried between four in a great Elbow-Chair, came to meet the Holy Man: and truly when she perceiv'd the mistake, and saw it was her Nephew, she fell a laughing so loud and so long, that she far exceeded the strength every body thought she had. When he came from her House, he came to see us, all torn, and just as the devout People had left him.

I should tell you, that all is mighty private and retir'd in this Court; but here's the way and manner how some particular Persons live: In the Morning as soon as they are up, they drink Water cool'd with Ice, and presently after Chocolate; when Dinner-time is come, the Master sits down to Table, his Wife and Children, as I have already observ'd, eat upon the Floor near the Table; this is not done out of respect, as they tell me, but the Woman cannot sit upon a Chair, she is not accustomed to it; and there are several ancient Spanish Wo∣men which never sat upon one in their whole Life: they make a light meal, for they eat little flesh; the best of their food are Pigeons, Pheasants, and their Olio's which are excellent; but the greatest Lord has not brought to his Table above two Pi∣geons, and some very bad Ragou, full of Garlick and Pepper; and after that some Fennel and a little Fruit: when this little Dinner is over, every one in the House undress themselves, and lye down upon their Beds, upon which they lay Spanish Lea∣ther-Skins for coolness: at this time you shall not find a soul in the Streets; the Shops are shut, all Trade ceas'd, and it looks as if every body were dead. At two a Clock in the Winter, and at four in the Summer, they begin to dress themselves a∣gain,

then eat Sweet-meats, drink either some Chocolate, or Waters cool'd in Ice, and afterwards every body goes where they think fit; and indeed they tarry out till eleven or twelve a Clock at Night, I speak of People that live regularly. Then the Husband and Wife go to Bed, a great Table-Cloth is spread all over the Bed, and each fastens it under their Chin; the He and She Dwarfs serve up Supper, which is as frugal as the Din∣ner, for it is either a Pheasant Hen made into a Ragou, or some Pastry bus'ness, which burns the Mouth, it is so excessively pepper'd. The Lady drinks her belly full of Water, and the Gentleman very sparingly of the Wine, and when Supper is ended, each goes to sleep as well as they can.

The unmarry'd, or those who observe but few rules with their Wives, after they have been taking the Air in the Prado, where in Summer they go half naked in their Coaches; I mean when 'tis dark they get a light Supper, mount their Horses, and take a Foot-man behind them, they do this that they may not lose him; for going in the darkest Night through so many Streets very quick, how should a Foot-man be able to turn and wind, and follow his Master? But they are also afraid of being assault∣ed behind, the Footman having no other care than to look a∣bout him, is as it were the Sentinel, and is ready to defend his Master. There may be some which will do this, but most of them in such cases run away, for they are not stout. This no∣cturnal Ramble is upon the Ladies account, they then visit them, and to gain an Empire, they would not neglest that op∣portunity. They talk to them through the Lattice of their Windows, sometimes they go into their Gardens, and when they can into their Chambers. Their Passion is so violent, that they'll look the greatest danger in the face; they'll go to the very place where the Husband sleeps, and I have been told that they'll see one another years together, without daring to speak one word, for fear of being heard. They are ignorant in France what 'tis to love at the rate these People are said to love. And not to mention the cares, the earnest desires, the nicety, and the devoting of themselves up even to death, (for the Husband and the Relations give no quarter) that which I admire, is their Fidelity and Secresie. It is never known, that a Cavallero boasts of having receiv'd Favours from a Lady; they speak of their Mistresses with so much respect and value, as if they were their Sovereigns. And on the other hand, these Ladies never desire to oblige any other than their Gallants, they are entirely taken up with him; and although they cannot see him in the day-time, yet they have opportunity to employ several hours

about him, either in writing to, or speaking of him with some she Friend who is privy to the Intreague; or else in waiting all the day long, and looking through their Lattices to see him go by. In a word, upon all that I have been told about these Mat∣ters, I can easily believe, that Love had its Birth in Spain.

Whilst the Cavalleros are with their Mistresses, their Foot∣men look after their Horses at some distance from the House; but there are very often unpleasant Mischances happen to them, for there being no necessary places in their Houses, all night long they throw that out of their Windows, which decency hinders me from naming to you; so that the amorous Spaniard which goes silently along the Street, is many times in a nasty condition from head to foot; and though at his coming out he was curiously perfum'd, yet he is forc'd to return as fast as he can to change his Cloths. This is one of the greatest Inconve∣niencies in this City, and which renders it so stinking and filthy, that in the Morning one can hardly pass along the Streets. I say in the Morning, for the Air is here so subtile and hot, that all this nastiness is consum'd before Noon. When a Horse, or any other Animal dies, they throw him into the Street where he happens to be, though it were before the Pallace-Gate, and the next day you'll find him reduc'd to dust. They are persuaded, that if they did not throw out their Filth and Carrion in this manner into their Streets, Madrid would not be long without the Plague, and it never is there.

But besides those ways I have now mention'd, that Gallants have to see their Mistresses, they have yet others; for the La∣dies visit one another frequently, and there is nothing more easie for them than to wear a Vail, and by the back door go in∣to a Chair, and be carry'd where they will: And this is the more practicable, because all the Women agree to keep one anothers Secrets inviolably, let there be what Differences there will a∣mongst them, and let them never be so angry one against ano∣ther, yet they never open their lips to make the least Discove∣ry; their Discretion cannot be sufficiently prais'd: It is true in∣deed, the consequences would be more fatal if they did other∣wise, since they make nothing here of murthering upon a bare Suspicion.

After this manner, the L••••ies make their Visits to one ano∣ther; you must not go to see your Friend when you have a mind, you must tarry till you are desir'd to come, and the Lady that has a mind to be visited, writes a Letter in the Morning, and invites you, you are carry'd in a Chair which is extream 〈◊〉〈◊〉 every way, and that they may be the lighter, they are

made only of a thin stuff hung upon a wooden frame, these stuffs are always mixt with Gold and Silver, and are very rich; they have in them three great Glasses, and the top is made of a very thin Leather, lin'd as the rest, and it opens upwards that so one may go in and out more conveniently; to every Chair there's four Bearers, which relieve one another, and a Footman carries the Hat of the foremost; for let it be what Weather it will, he must not be cover'd before his Mistress. The Lady is set as fast in her Chair, as a Diamond-stone in a Ring; she ei∣ther wears no Mantle or Vail then, or if she does, it has a black English Lace set on it, half an Ell deep very fine and dear; this is becoming enough: she has also a Coach with four Mules in those long Traces I have formerly mentioned, which follows softly after the Chair, that is commonly fill'd with old Gentle∣men-Ushers, and five or six Pages; for every body has these, my Banker's Wife has two. The Ladies never take any of their Women with them; and though several of them are going the same place, yet they each of them take a Chair to themselves, and do not go together in any one of their Coaches. I hap∣pen'd t'other day, to be in a stop there was in a Street, and there came by me fifty Chairs, and as many Coaches one after ano∣ther, they came out of the Dutchess De Frias, and went to the Dutchess D' Ʋzeda's House, I'll tell you why they went thither, when I have first told you that when the Lady is come to her House whom she goes to visit, the Chairmen carry her as far as the Anti-chamber, the Stairs are made purposely very wide and low, for the greater ease, assoon as she is set down, she sends away all her People and her Coach, and appoints them what hour to come and fetch her home, which is usually between ten and eleven a Clock, for their Visits are long enough to tire the greatest Patience.

There never comes any Men where they are met, a jealous Husband would have little to do to seek his Wife among them; he would be laught at, and they would not vouchsafe to give him any other Satisfaction, than telling him, That she is where he is not. The good Women are cunning enough, and they make use of this liberty; for you must know that every House has its back doors, by which they can steal out, and never be seen. Be∣sides this, every one has a Brother at her Sisters, a Son at her Mothers, or a Nephew at her Aunts, and this is another pretence they make use of to see their Lover. Love in this Country is very ingenious, nothing is neglected to gratifie their Passion, and the Mistress meets with Fidelity; there are Intrigues that last one's Life, and yet there has not been an hours time loss to

accomplish them, all Opportunities are improv'd, and there needs no more after seeing and liking one another.

I was some days ago at the Marchioness D' Alcannizas, she's one of the greatest and most vertuous Ladies of the Court; dis∣coursing of these things, she very freely said to us, I must needs confess, that if a Cavallero should be convenienly alone with me half an hour, and did not ask me all that a Man could ask, I should resent it so briskly, that I would stab him if I could. And would you grant him all the Favours he might ask you, interrupted the Mar∣chioness De Liche, who is young and handsome? That does not follow, replied my Lady D' Alcannizas, on the contrary, I have reason to believe, that I should grant him nothing at all; but then I could not reproach him with any thing, whereas if he made no attempt upon me, I should conclude he despised me. There are few, I believe, but what are of the same opinion in this matter.

There's one thing I find very odd, and not to look well, me∣thinks in a Catholick Kingdom, and that is, The tollerating of Men, that keep Mistresses so openly, without the least disguise; it is very true that they are forbid by the Laws, but they value not the Laws, and only obey their own Inclinations, and yet no body offers to call them to account, or to reprove them in the least. These Mistresses are called Amancebades; though a Man is mar∣ried, yet he must have one of these Creatures, and often the na∣tural Children are brought up with the legitimate in the sight of the poor Wife, who patiently bears all this without so much as speaking a word. It is very seldom one hears of any Differences between Husband and Wife, and yet seldomer, that they separate as in France. Of an infinite number of Persons that I know here, I have only seen the Princess Della Rocea, that does not live with her Husband, but in a Convent, the Courts of Justice are not much troubled here with domestick Quarrels.

It seems extraordinary to me that a Lady who loves, and is be∣lov'd by a Cavallero, is not jealous of his Amancebada; she looks upon her as a second Wife, and believes she cannot stand in com∣petition with her; so that a Man has his Wife, his Amancebade, and his Mistress, this last is generally a Person of Quality; 'tis she that is visited in the Night, and for whom they venture their Lives.

It happens sometimes that a Lady cover'd with her great plain Mantle or Vail, and not shewing any more of her Face than half an Eye, and being ordinarily drest, because she would not be known, and having no mind to take a Chair, walks afoot to the place of Rendezvous; either her being little us'd to walk, or ve∣ry often, her manner and way distinguishes her: a Cavallero fol∣lows, and begins to talk to her, uneasie to have such a Compani∣on

which it is hard to get rid of, she addresses her self to the first she meets, and without further discovery of her self, I conjure you, says she to him, to hinder this importunate Man to follow me any longer, his curiosity may injure my affairs; this Request a∣mounts to a command with a brave Spaniard; he asks him against whom the Lady complains, why he will press upon her against her mind, and if he meets with an obstinate Person, the Sword must be drawn, and sometimes they kill each other, without knowing for whom they have so expos'd themselves. In the mean while, the Lady makes the best of her way, leaves them fighting together, and goes where she's expected; but the jest is, that very often this proves either to be the Husband or the Brother that asserts her Cause, and by defending her from the Pursuit of the inquisitive, gives her an Opportunity to enjoy the embraces of her Gallant.

Some time ago, a young Lady who dearly lov'd her Husband, being inform'd that he did not live so regularly as he should, dis∣guis'd her self, put on her Vail, and standing in a Street he us'd often to pass through, she spy'd him and gave him an Opportu∣nity to speak to her. After he had occosted her, she began to thou him; and 'tis commonly in this familiar way that the Wo∣men in this Country make known their Inclinations. He made a Proposal to her, which she accepted, but upon condition that he should not be desirous either to see her or know who she was: he promised he would not, and so led her to a Friend of his; at their parting he assur'd her, that he thought himself the happiest of Men, and that Fortune had never been so kind to him before, and then gave her a very fine Ring, and begged her to keep it for his sake. I'll keep and love it dearly, and will meet thee here again when thou wilt, says she to him, for I had as good have thy Jewels as another. When she had ended these words, she open∣ed her Vail, and the Husband seeing 'twas his Wife, was in the greatest confusion imaginable at his Adventure; but he consi∣dered, that since she had so well contriv'd the matter as to get out of her House to watch him, she might also find a way to play him some other trick less pleasant; and therefore to be secure of her, he appointed two Duennas constantly to look after her, and they never after left her.

It happens also sometimes, that when a Man's House is not near the Place, where by chance he meets his Mistress, he goes without Ceremony into the next he comes at, whether he is ac∣quainted there or no, he civilly intreats the Master to let him have a Room to himself, because he has now an Opportunity to dis∣course with a Lady, which if he loses, he shall not have the like in a long time; this is enough to make the Master grant an Ac∣commodation

to the Gallant and his Mistress, and sometimes, I assure you, 'tis the very Wife of the Fool that goes away so kind∣ly; in a word, they will venture strangely for an Opportunity of seeing each other, though but for a quarter of an hour.

I remember a French Lady, discoursing of a certain Man to one of her Friends, said, Shew me an amorous Man, and I'll shew you one ruin'd. This Maxim is verifi'd here, more than in any place in the World; a Lover or a Gallant has nothing that he can call his own. It is no matter whether she either sees, or has a real occasion for a thing, 'tis sufficient if she does but barely desire it, they are never deny'd any thing, and the manner of giving it, en∣haunses their Liberality. I find them nothing near so amicable as our Frenchmen, but 'tis said they know how to love at a greater rate. Besides, their Behaviour is a thousand times more respect∣ful, nay this extends so far, that when a Man, let him be of what Quality he will, presents any thing, or gives a Letter to a Lady, he kneels upon one knee, and he does the same, when he receives any thing from her hand.

I said I would tell you, why so many Ladies went to the Dut∣chess of D' Ʋzeda's; she is very amiable, and Daughter to the Duke D' Ossone, her Husband has had a Quarrel with the Prince De Stillano, about a Lady which they both love; they drew their Swords, and 'tis like to be an ill business. The King has caus'd them to be arrested, that is, they are not made Prisoners, but he has confin'd them to their Houses; unless they privately go abroad in the Night to pursue their usual amorous Pleasures. And that which is strange, the poor Wife must not set her foot out of door as long as her Husband is under these Confinements, though it is almost constantly for some piece of Infidelity he is guilty of towards her. And it is the same also, if they be banisht, or sent to remain upon some of their own Estates in the Country, which frequently happens. In all the time of their Absence, their Wives keep house without so much as once going abroad. I have been told, that the Dutchess D' Ossone, was a Prisoner after this manner for above two Years; this is the Custom, but it makes ones Life very dull and tedious.

But 'tis not only the Spanish Ladies, who are so tir'd and uneasie here, the French find but little diversion: We are in a few days to go to Arranjues and Tolledo to kiss the Queen Mothers hand; I'll write you, dear Cousin, the particulars of that small Journey, and I wish with all my Soul I were in a condition to give you more es∣sential marks of my Affection.

From Madrid this 25 of July, 1679.