Systema agriculturæ, the mystery of husbandry discovered treating of the several new and most advantagious ways of tilling, planting, sowing, manuring, ordering, improving of all sorts of gardens, orchards, meadows, pastures, corn-lands, woods & coppices, as also of fruits, corn, grain, pulse, new-hays, cattle, fowl, beasts, bees, silk-worms, &c. : with an account of the several instruments and engines used in this profession : to which is added Kalendarium rusticum, or, The husbandmans monthly directions, also the prognosticks of dearth, scarcity, plenty, sickness, heat, cold, frost, snow, winds, rain, hail, thunder, &c. and Dictionarium rusticum, or, The interpretation of rustick terms, the whole work being of great use and advantage to all that delight in that most noble practice.

CHAP. VII.

Of Fruit-trees.

SECT. I. Of the Profits and Pleasures of Fruit-trees.

THe planting of Fruit-trees is undoubtedly one of the great∣est Improvements that can be made of the most part of our English Land, as all who have written of Improvents do agree; and Worcester-shire, Hereford-shire, Gloucester-shire, Kent, and ma∣ny other particular places in this Land can sufficiently evidence the truth thereof.

1. Because it is more universal than many other sorts of Im∣provements, there being but little ground in England, but one sort of Fruit or another will prosper upon it, if judicially prose∣cuted.

The Charge of planting or raising most sort of Fruit-trees be∣ing so small, and the pains so easie, that the most slothful hath not any rational objection against it; but the most common is, that the poorer sort of people will rob and spoil the Plantations, &c. If you plant but a few, this objection may have place; but if you plant any considerable number, it will be worth while to attend them at that season, which is but short, when they are pallatable; or to plant such that are not very inviting, and yet as profitable to the Planter as the most pleasant.

And when they become more common, they will be little re∣garded by these Filchers; or if they do borrow a few sometimes in their Pockets, or to make a few Apple-pies withal, yet that is a poor discouragement to an ingenuous Spirit; and much like that Rusick Humor of one that would not improve a very good piece of ground for that purpose with Fruit-trees, because the Parson would have the decimation of it; and so denied himself the nine

parts, because the Parson should not have the Tenth; which in∣deed is a grand Impediment to Improvement: and it is to be wished that there were some more certain Modus in lieu of that troublesome way of Tything.

This way of Improving by planting of Fruit-trees is more pra∣ctised within these few years than hath been in Ages before; a suffi∣cient Argument of the benefit the Country-man receives by it. The Computation may be taken from the expence of the young Trees, especially of Syder-fruit that our Nurseries have annually yielded throughout the greatest part of this Kingdom.

2. The use of Fruits is also universal both for meat and drink: That there cannot be an over-stocking of the Country with them, especially of Syder-fruits. This drink being more universally ce∣lebrated than any other, as the most pleasant (being of good Fruits, and rightly prepared) the most healthy and the most dura∣ble of any other, and must necessarily bring a very considerable advantage to the whole Kingdom in general, because a far greater quantity of Syder is usually produced out of an Acre of Land in one year, than can be made of the Barly growing on an Acre, and much less cost and trouble in the preparation; so that if but a small part of every Farm were planted for Syder, much of the Barley-land might be converted to other uses, which in the end would be a National Improvement and advantage.

It will also lessen that vast consumption we make of French-Wines, which we drink to the enriching of a Foreiner, the im∣poverishing of our selves, and the great prejudice of our healths, especially by the corroding Claret, and stummed White-Wines, when we have a thousand Testimonies that English Syder is to be preferred before any French-Wines, and known to be more Ho∣mogeneal to our Natures.

Mr. Hartlib in his Legacie tells you of the benefits of Orchard-fruits, that they afford curious Walks for pleasure, food for Cat∣tle in the Spring, Summer, and Winter (meaning under their sha∣dow) Fewel for the fire, shade from the heat, Physick for the sick, refreshment for the sound, plenty of food for man, and that not of the worst, and drink also of the best; and all this without much labour, care, or cost.

The high Applauses, Dignities, Advantages, and variety of Pleasures and Contents in the planting and enjoyment of Fruit-trees, Mr. Ralph Austen hath very copiously and particularly set forth in his Treatise of Fruit-trees, to which for brevity-sake I refer you, and shall only in this place give you a Catalogue of such Fruit-trees as are for our advantage, with the several ways of propagating and ordering of them. And first of Standard-trees.

Amongst which the Apple worthily deserves the prehemi∣nence, both for its universality of place, scarce a Country-parish in England but in some part or other it will thrive; and also for its use, being both Meat and Drink, and generally esteemed by the most curious, as a pleasant Dish. It also exceeds all other English-Fruits

for the time we enjoy them; not a day in the year but they may be had, and not of the worst. There is a very great diver∣sity of the Species of them; Mr. Hartlib speaks of one who had about two hundred sorts, or Species, and does verily believe there are near five hundred in this Island: The French Gardiner reck∣ons up eighty seven several sorts of choice kinds of them in that Country; I presume he computes not the common.

They are of different Natures; some are early ripe, some later; some are but for a time, others are long preserved: I have heard of Pippins that have been kept two or three years sound, only by care in gathering of them, and at the right season, kept in a Room free from the common Annoyances of Heat and Cold, and hung by the Tails: some are preserved for the Table, others for Cider; the best for the Table are the Jennitings, the Harvey Ap∣ple, the Golden Pippin, Summer and Winter Pearmains and Pip∣pins, the John Apple, with many others. There is a sort of Rus∣seting, with a fine rough Gold-coloured skin, with some Warts on it, which I can give no other name than the Aromatick Rus∣seting, knowing no other for it; which Fruit excels any other Apple I have seen or tasted, and is worthy to be placed, not only the Tree in the best of your Plantations, but the Fruit at the best of your Brumal Repasts. The Tree may be had at Mr. George Ricket's, near Hodsden; and at Mr. Ball's at Brainford, two of the best Planters in England. The best for Cider are the Red-Streak, the Jennet-Moyl, Eleot, Stocking Apple, and some others.

Apples planted dispersedly about your Ground, either in the Hedges, or in Rows by the Hedges, raise a very considerable ad∣vantage, at a very easie Rate or Charge, and that only in Nursing them up till they are freed from common injuries; the great ad∣vantages accrewing thereby, are evident to the Inhabitants of Herefordshire, Glocestershire, and several other places in England. I heard it certainly related in Herefordshire of a Tenant that bought the Living he then Rented, only with the benefit he made of the Fruit growing thereon in one year; with this advantage, that he utter'd his Cider by Retail, as they usually do Beer. Or∣chards planted with Apples arise to a very considerable improve∣ment: I know (saith Mr. Hartlib) that ten, or fifteen pound an Acre, hath been given for Cherries, more for Pears and Apples; the Land it self, whilest these Trees are small, and yield you not your desired gain, is capable of bearing any sort of Tillage, till the Trees yield too much shadow; and then, if they are not too thick, the Land is better than before it was planted, sometimes to a three-fold improvement, and hath the Preheminency above o∣ther Pastures in being Earlier, not subject to scorching heats; and in the Winter there is plenty of Food for Sheep, Calves, &c.

Next unto Apples, the Pear challengeth his place: They will prosper in some sorts of Land where Apples will not, as in Stony, Hungry, Gravelly Land; yea, in a tough binding hungry Clay, the Root of a Pear-tree being, it seems, more able to pierce asto∣ny and stiff Ground.

The Pear-tree bears almost its weight of Sprightful Winy Li∣quor; sometimes one Tree bears two, three, or four Hogsheads per Annum. In Herefordshire I was credibly informed, that near Ross groweth a Pear-tree of that Magnitude, that the Circumfe∣rence of the Body, or Stem of the Tree; was as much as three men, from hand to hand, could beclip or fathom; and that there was made in one year of the Fruit thereof 7 Hogsheads of Perry.

There are supposed to be four or five hundred several kinds of Pears; the French Gardiner reckons about three hundred of choice sorts of Pears.

Several are for the Table; as the Windsor-Pear, Burgamets, Boon-Christiens, Greenfield-Pear, &c. For Perry, the Horse-Pear, both White and Red, the Bosbury-Pear, Choak-Pear, &c. It is worthy to be taken notice of, that the best Pears for Perry, and so of Apples for Cider, are not very pleasant, Crude as they are from the Trees, and may be planted in the Fields or Pastures with less danger of loss than the Table-fruit.

Some of these also are for the Summer only, and will not last; others will keep over the Winter.

The advantage of the Pear are equal to those of Apples; for though they are deficient in some cases, yet they recompence it in other. It is the goodlier Tree in a Grove, to shelter a House and Walk from Summers heat, and Winters cold Winds, and far more lasting; and for the quantity of ground it covers, bears much more than the Apple, because of their height.

Of Cherries there are several sorts; some of one colour, some of another; some early, and some late: but for the Orchard or Field, the Flanders Cherry excels. The Great-bearing Cherry also is a very good kind, for that he seldom fails; though in a cold and sharp Spring they are late ripe, and hang near a fort∣night after they are Red, before they be through ripe: they are the fittest sort for the coldest places; they are not so pleasant as the other, by reason of the Tartness of the Juyce, yet sharp Cherries are more wholesome than the sweet.

The advantages of a Cherry-Orchard are very great: Mr. Hart∣lib gives the Relation of a Cherry-Orchard about Sittenburn in Kent, of thirty Acres, that produced in one Year above a thou∣sand pound: That President might be but once; one Swallow makes not a Summer; yet they are usually worth ten or fifteen pound per Acre.

They are a Fruit that keep not long; therefore if your store exceed your Market, a most excellent Wine is made of them, by those that delight in such Liquors, which indeed are to be pre∣ferred before Forreign.

Wall-nuts, not without desert, challenge a principal place in our Rural Plantation; the Tree groweth tall, is a great defence against Winds, a most Excellent Ornament, delights in a dry, sound, and rich Land, if it incline to a feeding Chalk or Marl; also in stony grounds, and on hills, especially Chalky; likewise in Corn-fields: In several places in Germany no young Farmer is permitted to

Marry a wife, till he bring proof that he hath planted, and is a fa∣ther of such a stated number of Walnut-trees. The Fruit will yearly sufficiently recompense the loss of the ground it drops with a good advantage; the Timber bears a good price, and is of excellent use in every place, strong, and not subject to the Worm: but is not to be entertained in Hedge-rows, no Tree thriving un∣der its drip.

Stately Avenues and large Plantations are of them in Surry, to the very great advantage and recompence of the industry of the owners.

That which is produced of the thick shell of the Nut, becomes the best Timber; that of the thinner, the better Fruit.

If the Market should happen to be overstocked of this Fruit for the Table by over-great Plantations, yet may a considera∣ble advantage be raised by extracting an Oyl of the Kernel, as at this time they do in Normandy, which is their principal use they convert them to. The Oyl is excellent for the Limner for laying his white Colours; it's good for Lamps and many other uses.

These are a Fruit growing so low, that we generally look over them; they delight in a fine mellow light ground, but will grow in almost any ground, especially if they are defended from the violent and cold Winds: the Tree is easily propagated, generally bears well, and yields a most excellent Fruit, not much inferior to the best and sweetest Almond. There are the White and Red, but the White is the best.

Being planted in rows near the greater Trees, they will bear under the shadow of them, and give you a good reward for your Industry. They delight in shady places, where few other fruits will prosper.

They are a Fruit that may be kept long in the husk, or in Sand.

Quinces are a very good Fruit; the Trees delight in moist ground, and near the Waters-side; and where they like their ground, they yield a very great increase; it is good to apply hot and rich Soils to the Roots of them, which will be fully repaid in the Fruit. There are several kinds of them, some are a small Crab-quince; others a fair, large kinde of quince: 'tis good to plant of the best sort, and the best bearers; the Portugal-Quince is judged to be the best both for bearing and use.

Mr. Hartlib tells you of a Gentleman at Prichnel in Essex, who had a Tree from beyond Sea, and had the best in England, and had made above thirty pound of a small piece of ground planted with them.

They are difficult to propagate; they will grow in any reaso∣nable good Land: the Fruit is made use of several ways, some make a Drink or Wine of them, it's very good to colour Wine or Syder; but the greatest and most principal benefit and use of the Mulberry-tree is the leaf, being the only known food for the Silk-worm; if the Trees were more encreased, it would be en∣couragement

sufficient to keep these curious Creatures: although many have kept them, and made great quantities of the Silk, yet the difficulty of obtaining the leaves, and where they are, they grow in Gardens generally, few in quantity, and valued accor∣ding to the ground they grow on, that it's a great discourage∣ment to that noble Improvement.

If King James's Letter for the planting of Mulberry-trees were again revived, or some compulsive Statute to that purpose, and diligently prosecuted, it would produce in time a very considera∣ble advantage to this Kingdom.

Or rather, if his Majesty, or some Honourable Person, would al∣lot some large parcel of Land, out of some Forest or Chace, to be wholly Cultivated for the raising of a Mulberry-wood, it would become a most noble President for others to imitate: For the principal Advantage must be raised on such Land not yet im∣proved to the highest value by other Plantations, as usually Gar∣dens are.

There are many kindes of Plums, and very much differing from each other. The better sorts, as the Mustle-plum, the Da∣mazine, Violet, and Premorden-Plums, with many others, are ve∣ry pleasant to be eaten, and require a very good rich warm Soil and place: the common ordinary Plums will grow almost any where; they are not worth the planting to be eaten, unless you can finde a way to make a good Wine out of them; doubtless they yield store of Spirits or Aqua Vitae.

They are the more to be regarded, for that they thrive very well in shady places, where, except the Filberd and the Currant, scarce any other Fruit will prosper.

The Damzin is one of the best, wholsomest, and most profita∣ble of Plums, and deserves a place in your Plantation: Mr. Hart∣lib gives it as a deficiencie, that the great Damzin or Pruin-plum is neglected, which groweth well, and beareth full in England.

Plum-trees and Damzins may also be planted in Hedges, being ordinarily thorny Plants; they will thrive there better than Ap∣ples or Pears.

The Medlar is a Fruit of very little use, the reason I suppose they are no more multiplyed, yet have they been of long stand∣ing; they are pleasing to the Palate: This Tree may serve to fill up a spare Corner in your Orchard.

If we could obtain the Medlars without stones, mentioned in the French Gardiner, they would be better worth the planting. The great Dutch Medlar is the best.

The Barberry is a common Plant in Orchards, and bears a Fruit very useful in Housewifry: There are several sorts of them, al∣though but one only common, above which is to be preferred that which beareth its Fruit without stones: There is also ano∣ther sort, and chiefly differs from the common kinde, in that the Berries are twice as big, and more excellent to preserve.

Mr. Hartlib condemns us much for neglecting the propagation of this Tree, which (saith he) groweth well, and beareth good

Fruit, as he hath seen divers bushels on one Tree in his Brothers Orchard; they grew large and upright, and need not the help of a Wall; the Almond is in some sweet, in others a little bitter. The Tree is chiefly received for the beauty of its Flowers, which being many, early, and of a fair, pale, reddish colour, make a fine shew in a Garden.

The common Service-tree grows wilde in many places: but there is a kinde thereof more rare, which by long standing grows to a fair Tree with many branches set with winged leaves, like those of the Ash; but smaller, and indented about the edges: The Flowers grow in Clusters, succeeded by Fruits; in some round, in others Pear-fashion, much bigger and better tasted than those of the common kinde.

There are many sorts and colours of Goosberries; the White-Holland, or Dutch-Goosberry, is the fairest, and best Bearer of all others: The Berries are large, round, smooth, white, transparent, and well tasted. There is a sort of Green Goosberry that is also a very pleasant Fruit.

It's not a small advantage that's yearly reaped by this Fruit, the Tree propagated with so much facility, and yields a wonderful en∣crease; and from the beginning of May, to the middle of July, contains a useful Berry.

This Tree bearing so great plenty of Berries, and is so easily propagated, that it may be supposed the Market, especially re∣mote from London, may be over-stockt: but this Fruit, taken in its right time, yields so delicate a Wine, that you cannot convert them to a better use, nor solace your self with a finer Summer-Repast.

There are also several sorts and colours of this Fruit; the White is very pleasant, but the Great Red exceeds all the rest, is a plentiful Bearer, and yields the largest Fruit.

The same may be said of the Currant, as before was of the Goosberry, it being also easily propagated, and a great Bearer, and yields a very pleasant Liquor; to be compared, being right∣ly ordered, with French-Wines.

Rasberries are not to be omitted out of the number of the most pleasant and useful Fruits, which yield one of the most pleasant Juyces of any Fruit; and being extracted and preserved, will serve to tinge any other Liquor with its delicate Aromatick Gust.

SECT. II. Of Wall-Trees.

Having given you a taste of the most usual Fruits growing in the Fields, Orchards, or Gardens, on Standards that necessarily depend not on any other Prop or Stay, I will now give you a List of such that are usually planted against Houses, Walls, Pales, or other Supports; not only to preserve them from the violent Per∣cussions of the Weather, but to augment the heat of the Sun, for

the sooner and better Maturating their Fruit; amongst which the Vine claims the Precedency, being esteemed by Ancient Philosophers the King of this Vegetable Kingdom, as Man is of the Animal, and Gold of the Mineral; most Countries of the World enjoying the delicious fruits of this most excellent Plant: It is esteemed a great deficiency, that they are no more propaga∣ted in this Island than they are; many are of Opinion they will prove well, being planted in Vineyards, as they do in France, and give many instances of Vineyards that have formerly been in England, divers places yet retaining the name of Vineyards; as in Bromwel-Abbey in Norfolk, and at Ely in Cambridgeshire, which afforded Wine, as these Rimes seem to testifie.

Quatuor sunt Eliae, Lauterna Capella Mariae, Et Molendinum, necnon dans Vinea Vinum.

There are many places in Kent called by the names of Vine∣yards: The same likewise in Glocestershire, between Glocester and Ross, is a place containing the name of a Vineyard, as I was cre∣dibly informed travelling that way.

There are at this day several Presidents of making Wine in England; Mr. Hartlib gives an instance of one at Great Chart in the Wilde of Kent, that Yearly made six or eight Hogsheads, which was much commended by divers that tasted of it, and had kept of it two Years; and also of a Gentlewoman that pressed her Grapes, and expecting Verjuice, drew Wine.

Without question our Grapes will afford good Wine, if we can finde places enough to bring them to such Maturity, as some years they do on the House sides, and Walls, which hath been often at∣tempted: but I cannot undersand that they Annually succeed, according to expectation; neither indeed do they on the Hou∣ses, or Walls. The like inconveniences, though it's probable not in so great a measure, are the Vineyards in other the Northern parts of France and Germany subject unto; which methinks should not prove so great a discouragement, seeing that Hops, Apples, Cherries, &c. are also subject unto the same disappoint∣ments. But if they can be Cultivated, and raised to that state, as to bear well, and ripen well in seasonable Summers, we may the better dispence with such casualties, as well in this, as other meaner Productions.

The places most commodious for this use and purpose, and most free from those Annual casualties or inconveniences, must be so scituated and defended, either Naturally or Artificially, as to be free from the continual Assaults of the Winds; for any Wind in the Summer Refrigerates, and impedes the Maturity of the Grape, and ought also to decline towards the South; if it doth not Naturally decline enough, it ought to be so laid by Art, that it's Elevation may be as near as you can equal to the Elevation of the Pole, or somewhat less; that it may lye square to the Sun-beams, for the most part of the time the Sun passeth through the six Northernly Signs. The Banks or Borders so laid, ought also to be made circular (not streight) as though they

contained about the eighth part of a Circle, the Center being in the South, like the Concave of the Burning-Glass which burns by Reflection; for by this means it doth as it were imbrace and detain the heat received from the Sun-beams, and breaks the Winds: for I have known the fairest, best, and most early ripe Grape, to grow on the side of a House after the aforesaid manner cited, when on the same Tree, and on another part of the House, although it received as much of the Sun, they were not so good, nor early, by reason they lay more in the Wind, and the Sun-beams less direct.

There are several other things also to be considered of, to acce∣lerate the Maturity of this most excellent Fruit, as the warmth, richness, and lightness of the Soyl, which may be much advanced by Art, in applying of several Ingredients suitable to that pur∣pose; also by covering the Surface of the Ground with Tiles, Sand, or such like, that may keep down the Weeds, and afford some assistant heat. The Land that is most apt to produce the largest Brambles, is said to be the most Natural to the Vine, and the fittest to plant a Vineyard on.

It hath also been the usual practise to deprive the Vine of its leaves in the Summer, under pretence of laying the Grape more open to the Sun; but that hath proved, rather than a help, an impediment to the Maturity of them, by depriving them of their shelter from the cool Airs, which in most Summers are more than the scorching heats; as I have often observed the best Grapes, and earliest ripe, to be under the shadow and protection of some Leaf. For what I have here said, and for what else is ne∣cessary towards the propagating of this Noble Plant, I must submit to the judgment and experience of such Persons worthy of Honour, that have made far deeper Essays than I have done, and are better capacitated by Reason, Judgment and Experience, to further and advance their Designe.

The Choice of Grapes also is very necessary: Mr. Hartlib commends the Parsley-Grape, the Rhenish-Grape, the Paris-Grape, and the small Muskadel, as most suitable to our Climate.

But if our Country-man be not minded, or have not conveni∣encies for the raising of a Vineyard, yet may it prove a very considerable advantage to plant Vines on the South-East and West-sides of his Houses, Barns, and Walls; and by good Cul∣ture, and Pruning, they will yield a very considerable increase. I have known several Bushels of Grapes grow on one Vine, being well Pruned, when the same Vine neglected hath yielded very few, and those not so good as when there were many.

Although the Wine that is produced of our English Grapes be not so Excellent as that which is produced of other Fruits, yet to be converted to Vinegar, may prove a very great advantage; that yielding no mean price, the right way of making of it being not difficult, the same Method being ordinarily used for convert∣ing Cider into Vinegar, which may to better advantage be done with sharp Wines.

They are very well known, almost every where; there are se∣veral kinds of them, some earlier, and some larger than the o∣ther: although the Tree will grow very well as a Standard, yet it seldom brings its Fruit to Maturity, unless it hath the benefit of some Wall or Pale.

This Tree flourishes much in a light, free, and rich Soyl, but spends it self too much in Branch, and but little in Fruit; be∣sides, is subject to the Canker: Wherefore to correct that Vice in the Mould, the best way will be to dig a large Pit where you intend to plant your Tree, and fill it above a Foot thick, and within a Foot or eighteen Inches of the Surface, with Chalk, Marl, or other White Earth, if you can obtain it; by which means the Tree is prevented from rooting too deep, or drawing too much of that luscious Sap; and so thereby may the Tree be more fertile, the Roots also lying warmer, and nearer the Sun and Air: For it is observed, that in White Lands this Tree is sound, spends but little in Branch, and bears plentifully; and in the rich black Mould it runs out in Branch, is subject to the Canker, and bears but little.

There is lately a new Mode of planting these, and other sorts of Fruit, as Apples, Pears, Peaches, Grapes, &c. in Dwarf-trees; that is, they are kept under-hand, that they attain not to full three Foot in height; by which means, being under the Wind, and having the benefit of the reflecting heat of the Earth, they produce their Fruit Mature, and early.

Peaches, Nectorines, and Melacotones, are also to be planted against Walls, Houses, &c. and are of several sorts, very much differing the one from the other; the best are best cheap.

These are also to be planted against Walls; but being of so little use in our Rural Habitation, I shall leave them.

Although they are generally planted as Standards, and in the Sun, yet there is no Tree admits of a greater improvement a∣gainst a Wall, and in the Shade, than this very Tree; it grow∣ing much larger, and spreading against a Wall to twelve or four∣teen foot high and broad, on the North-side of a House or Wall, and bearing most plentifully, and large and delicate Fruit.

There are some other Fruit-trees, as the Lote-tree, the Vir∣ginia Plum, the Cornel-tree, and such like, that are of small use, advantage, or pleasure; which I leave to the freedom of every man to plant, or use as he pleaseth.

SECT. III. Of the Propagation of Fruit-Trees.

There are several ways of increasing or multiplying the fore∣mentioned Fruit-Trees; some by Grafting, some by Inoculati∣on or Budding; some from the Seed, Nut, or Kernel, others by Layers, Slips, and Suckers, whereof more particularly; and first of Grafting.

This Art hath been, for many Ages, the most proper, speedy, and beneficial way to propagate several sorts of Fruits; although the same Fruits may be raised by Kernels, yet do they most usual∣ly prove wilde, and in taste austere and sharp, tending rather to the wildness of the Stock on which the Tree (whereon the Fruit grew) was Grafted; and although they seem fair, yet they want that vivacity of spirit, and are more woody than the Grafted Fruit: they are also of a much longer continuance e're they bear, and are not then so fruitful. Sometimes Apples have pro∣ved well from the Kernel, and have proved much larger Trees, and have born great burthens, (when they have been many years old) but rather by accident, and at best not worth ones labour. Of other Fruits, as Plums, Cherries, Aprecocks, Pea∣ches, &c. unless Grafted, or Inoculated, are not of any value: Therefore this Art and Custom of Grafting, or Inoculation, doth preserve the Species of our most dainty Fruits, and melio∣rate their Gusts, and affords us the most expeditious, pleasant, and advantagious way of gratifying our Senses, and fulfilling our desires in this most Innocent of Natural Practises.

The Fruits that are to be Grafted are the Apple, Pear, Cherry, Plum, and the Medlar; Filberds, Services, and Quinces, may also be Grafted.

The first thing to be considered in Grafting, is the Stock; ac∣cording to the nature of the Tree you intend to raise, must your Stock be; for Apples, the sowrer the Stock is, the better is the Fruit: therefore the Crab-Stock is usually preferred; they will be more free from the Canker, will become large Trees, and last longer: the Fruits also will be better and harder on Crab, or sowre Apple-stocks, than on sweet.

The best Stocks to Graft Pears on, are those raised from the Kernel, or the wilde Pear-Tree; the White-thorn is not good.

Cherries prove best Grafted on the Black-Cherry-Stock, or the Merry-Stock, which may be raised in great quantities from the Stone.

Plums are to be Grafted on Plum-Stocks, and no other.

Medlars may be Grafted on the White-thorn, but prove best on Pear-Stocks.

Filberds may be Grafted on the common Nut, and Services on their own kinde.

Quinces also may be Grafted on their own kinde.

The Fruits that best succeed by Inoculation, are Aprecocks, Peaches, and Nectorines; Goosberries and Currans, Plums, Ap∣ples, Pears and Cherries, may also be Inoculated with good success; and several other sorts of Fruits and Trees.

Aprecocks, Peaches, and Nectorines, are usually Inoculated in Plum-Stocks, raised either from Suckers, or from Stones; those of the white Pear-Plum are esteemed the best; and those of any other great white, or red Plum, that hath large leaves and shoots, are very good either to Graft or Inoculate other choice Plums upon, or for the budding of Aprecocks and Peaches;

but for a Nectorine, a Peach-Stock is most proper.

The Stones of Aprecocks and Peaches are not worth the set∣ting, for Stocks to Inoculate with other good kinds, in respect their Roots are Spongy, and will neither last nor endure to be transplanted; therefore the Stones of Plums and Cherries are chiefly for that purpose to be regarded, except the Peach-stock for the Nectorine.

Goosberries and Currans are Inoculated on their own kinde; and so are Plums, Apples, Pears, and Cherries.

SECT. IV. Of the Nursery for Stocks.

For the obtaining of a sufficient number of Stocks to Graft and Inoculate the several sorts of Fruits you intend to propa∣gate and advance, and also to pleasure your self with such that may be suitable for your intended purpose, and not to be enfor∣ced to rely on such that the Country spontaneously affords, ei∣ther for quantity or quality, prepare a Bed of Earth well dressed from Weeds, proportionable to the Seeds or Stones you intend to sow, and therein sow your Kernels of Crabs, or such like Ap∣ples as you intend to raise your Stocks from, and cover them with Earth sifted or raked over them, two or three fingers thick. This may be done about October, and so let lye till the Winter: For the Stones of Fruits, you may prick them down in Rows, two or three fingers deep, with the sharp end downwards. You may also cover them with long Dung, or Straw, to keep them from the violence of Frosts, which in April you may take off, and in May they will come up; and being kept from Weeds, in two years will be ready to remove into other Beds prepared for that purpose; whereof they are to be planted at a more conve∣nient distance, and better order, for the benefit of the Plant, and conveniency of the Grafter.

In Autumn is the most convenient time for this purpose, though it may be done at any time in the Winter, or Spring, before they bud: Let them be set in Rows, about two foot di∣stance, or as best pleases your self, and the Plants in each Row about six or eight inches apart, for the better conveniency of transplanting them; make the holes with an ordinary Setting-stick, and cut off the down-right Roots, and the Tops and Side-branches of the Plants, and fasten the Earth about them: Let not the Roots be too long, nor set deep, because they are after∣wards removed with more difficulty.

It is necessary to remove Seed-plants, for by that means they get good Roots, which otherwise they generally thrust down one single Root only.

The Nursery thus set, may be ready after one year to Inocu∣late, and after two or three years to Graft.

Crab-stocks or Apple-stocks thus raised, are better than those that come from the Woods, or any other ways.

Let the Kernels you raise your Nursery from, consist most, or altogether, of Crabs or Wildings for the Apple-Grafts.

Trees Grafted on a Gennet-Moyl or Cider-stock, preserve best the Gust of any delicate Apple; but on a Crab-stock the Tree lasts longer, and imparts a more Juicy and Tart relish, and so are to be preferred before most sorts of Apples: The wilde Stock does enliven the dull and Phlegmatick Apple, and the Stock of a Gennet-Moyl sweetens and improves the Pepin, &c. or may ra∣ther seem to abate some Apple over-tart and severe. The same Rules may be observed in the choice of Stocks for Pears, Plums, Cherries, Aprecocks, &c. the more Acid the Stock, the more life it gives to the Fruit of the Graft; as the black Cherry, or the Cherry-Tree, is the only Stock for the Cherry, &c.

Although the Fruit doth generally take after the Graft, yet is it somewhat altered by the Stock, either for the better or the worse: as Apples or other Fruit Grafted on Stocks select, as be∣fore, advance or meliorate them; so if they are Grafted on Stocks of another contrary Nature, much debaseth the Gust of the Fruit.

The Pear Grafted on a Quince-stock, produceth its Fruit bet∣ter than the same kinde upon a wilde Pear-stock, and fairer; much better coloured, and the Trees to bear sooner, and more store of Fruits; for the Fruit not only receives something of the Nature of the Stock, as well as the Graff, but also of the Soyl wherein they are planted, and of the Compost applyed unto them.

Therefore chuse a plat of ground for your Seminary and Nur∣sery, that may be of an indifferent nature, not too much enriched with dung, nor too sterile, lying warm, the Mould light, that the Stocks may the better thrive: Also let your Stocks be of Fruit select, as before, for that purpose.

If you desire to raise Dwarf-trees, let the Stocks whereon you Graff them, be of the Paradise-Apple for Apples, of the Quince for Pears, of the Morello, or common English Cherry, for Cherries; and so will they be the more fit for the Wall, or for Standards, being kept low according to the new Mode, though I see but little pleasure or profit in that way.

The best way, and most expeditious to raise a great quantity of Quince-stocks for your Nursery, is to cut down an old Quince-tree in March, within two inches of the ground, which will cause a multitude of Suckers to rise from the Root: When they are grown half a yard high, cover them at the bottom a foot thick with good Earth, which in dry times must be watered; and as soon as they have put forth Roots, in Winter remove them into your Nursery, where in a year or two they will be ready to Graft with Pears.

Plum-stocks and Cherry-stocks may be raised from Suckers, as well as from Stones, having regard to the kinds whence they proceed.

SECT. V. Of the Time and Manner of Grafting.

Having thus prepared your Nursery, and raised a sufficient quantity of Stocks to Graff or Inoculate on, you must consider the several ways the several kinds of Fruits are to be propaga∣ted, and which are most suitable; and also the several times and seasons wherein to Graff, and wherein to Inoculate.

The times to Graff in, are most usually in February and March; but I have grafted even unto mid-April some backward Fruits, and that with good success. You may begin also in January, e∣specially with the more forward Fruits, as Plums, Cherries, &c. such that have many to do, or much imployment other way, may begin more early, lest they want time.

You may either Graff or Inoculate at any time of the year, except October and November, saith Stephens, the Author of the Country Farmer; but whether that may be practised with success in these colder Countries, I much question. But doubtless the temperature of the Season doth very much conduce to the growth or proof of the Graff, as milde Weather in December or Janua∣ry, may be better for this work, than Frosty Weather in Februa∣ry. Frost Weather at no time is fit to Graff in.

When the Zephyres of the Spring are stirring, chuse that season before all others for this work.

Make choice of your Graffs from a constant and well-bearing Branch, if conveniently you can; others may do very well.

The Graffs of such Trees as are ill bearers, or not come to bear Fruit, are to be rejected, the Graffs always partaking of the quality of the Tree from whence they are taken.

Chuse not those that are very small and slender, they common∣ly fail; but take the fairest upon the Tree, and especially those that are fullest of Buds.

In Herefordshire they do frequently chuse a Graff of several years growth, and for the Graffing of such large Stocks as are ta∣ken out of the Woods or Nurseries, and fitted into Rows: for Orchards they chuse not the Graffs so small as in other Countries they require them.

Once for all, The stumpy Graff will be found much Superi∣our to the slender one, and make a much Nobler and larger shoot. This upon experience.

Graffs of any kinde being cut before they begin to spring, may be kept many days or weeks, and carried many Miles, being bound up in Moss, the ends stuck in Clay or Earth; or being wrapped in oiled or waxen leather, or the ends stuck in a Turnep.

Many Excellent Graffers assure us, that the Graff which seemed withered, and fit to be cast away, hath proved the best when tryed: That the Graff a little withered and thirsty, is better re∣ceived of the Stock.

Having your Stocks and Graffs ready at the time convenient, together with your Tools, and other materials, as the Pruning-knife, Pen-knife, or other small sharp Knife to fit the Grafts withal, fine Saw, Mallet and Wedge, and also Rushes, or strong soft Flags, or woollen Yarn to binde the Graft and Stock toge∣ther, and Clay well tempered with Horse-dung to keep the same from chopping in dry weather, or soft Wax for the smaller Trees, and a small Basket to carry the Graffs in, with such other Instru∣ments and Materials as you shall judge necessary for your work, and suitable to the Method you intend to proceed in, or as your own Ingenuity shall direct, then may you proceed in some or one of these several ways or manners of Grafting: Viz.

Either first by Grafting in the Cleft, which is the most known and Ancient way, and most usual for the middle-siz'd Stocks; the manner thus: First Saw off the head of the Stock in a smooth place; for Wall-trees or Dwarf-trees, within four fingers of the ground; for tall Standards higher, as you shall think convenient, or your Stock will give way: then pare away the roughness the Saw hath left on the head of the Stock; then cleave the head, (some advise a little besides the pith) and put therein the Wedge to keep the Cleft open; which cut smooth with the point of your small sharp knife, that the sides may be even: then cut the Graff on both sides, from some Knot or Bud, in form of a Wedge, suitable to the cleft with shouldrings; which Graft so cut, place exactly in the Cleft, that the inward Bark of the Cion may joyn to the inward part of the Bark or Rind of the Stock closely, wherein lies the most principal skill and care of the Grafter, if he expects the success answerable to his labours or expectation; then draw out the wedge: but if the Stock pinch hard, lest it should endanger the dividing of the Rinde of the Graff from the wood, to the utter spoiling of the Graff, let the inner side of the Graff that is within the wood of the Stock be left the thicker, that so the woody part of the Graff may bear the stress; or rather you might leave a small wedge in the Stock to keep it from pinch∣ing the Graff too hard, and then may you leave the out-side of the Graff a little the thicker; which I have usually done, as in smaller Stocks which pinch but weakly. Herein also is required care and judgment: then cover the head of the Stock with the tempered Clay, or with soft wax, to preserve it, not only from the extremity of cold and drying winds, but most principally from wet.

The second way of Grafting, and much like unto the former, is Grafting in the Bark or Rinde of the greater Stocks, and dif∣fers only in this, that where you cleave the Stocks, and fasten the Graffs within the Cleft in the other way, here you with a small wedge cut tapering downwards, to a point thin, like unto a half round File, and made of Ivory or Box, or other hard wood; only force in the same wedge between the Rinde and Stock, after the head thereof is Sawn off, and the roughness pa∣red away: then you are to take the Graff, and at the shoulder

or grossest part of it, cut it round with your small Grafting-knife, and take off the Rinde wholly downwards, preserving as much of the inner Rinde as you can; then cut the wood of the Graff about an inch in length, and take away half thereof to the pith, and the other half Taper it away, and set in the place you made with your wedge, between the Bark of the Stock and the wood, that the shouldring of the Graff may joyn closely to the Bark or Rinde of the Stock; and then with Clay and Horse-dung cover it as you do the other.

This way is with most conveniency to be used when the Stock is too big to be cleft, and where the Bark is thick. Here you may also set in many Graffs in the same Stock, and with good success.

Also especial care is to be taken to keep the Tops of your Stocks covered from time to time, till the Bark it self hath co∣vered it, to prevent the Rains from rotting the Stock; yet (as Mr. Evelin saith in his Pomona) it has been noted, that many old Trees quite decayed with an inward hollowness, have born as full burdens, and constantly, as the very soundest, and the Fruit found to be more delicate than usually the same kind from a perfect and more entire Stock.

Leave not your Graff above four, five, or at most six inches above the Stock; for being too long, they draw more feebly, and are more exposed to the injuries of weather, and hurt by Birds, and prosper not so well: but herein regard is to be had to the greatness of the Stock, and its long continuance in the same place, and its ability to furnish the Graff with Sap sufficient.

Graff your Cions on that side of the Stock where it may re∣ceive the least hurt from the South-west wind, it being the most common, and most violent that blows in Summer, so as the wind may blow it to the Stock, and not from it. Regard is here also to be had to the scituation of the Nursery or place you Graff in.

The third way of Grafting that is made use of, and to be per∣formed somewhat later than the other, and seems to be of later invention, because it is not so generally taught and used as the former, is Shoulder or Whip-graffing, and may be done two ways. First, by cutting off the head of the Stock, and smooth it as in Cleft-graffing; then cut the Graff from a Knot or Bud on one side, sloping about an inch and a half long, with a shoul∣dring, but not deep, that it may rest on the top of the Stock. The Graff must be cut from the shouldring smooth and even, slo∣ping by degrees, that the lower end be thin: place the shoulder on the head of the Stock, and mark the length of the cut part of the Graff, and with your knife cut away so much of the Stock as the Graff did cover, (but not any of the wood of the Stock) place both together, that the cut parts of both may joyn, and the Saps unite the one in the other, and binde them close to∣gether, and defend them from the Rain with tempered Clay or Wax, as before.

The other way of this Whip-graffing is where the Graffs and

Stocks are of an equal size, the Stock must be cut sloping up∣wards from the one side to the other, and the Graff after the same manner from the shoulder downwards, that the Graff may exactly joyn with the Stock in every part; and so binde, and clay, or wax them, as before.

These (especially the first way) of Whip-graffing are account∣ed the best. 1. Because you need not wait the growing of your Stocks; for Cleft-graffing requires greater Stocks than those ways. 2. This way injureth less the Stock and Graff than the o∣ther. 3. The wound is sooner healed, and thereby better defend∣ed from the injury of the Weather, which the Cleft-stock is in∣cident unto. 4. This way is more facile, both to be learned and performed.

The fourth way of Graffing is by Approach or Ablactation; and this is performed later than the former ways, to wit, about the Moneth of April, according to the state of the Spring. It is to be done where the Stock you intend to Graff on, and the Tree from which you take your Graff stand so near together, that they may be conjoyned; then take the Sprig or Branch you in∣tend to Graff, and pare away about three inches in length of the Rinde and Wood near unto the very Pith; cut also the Stock or Branch on which you intend to Graff the same after the same manner, that they may evenly joyn each to other, and that the Saps may meet; and so bind them, and cover them with Clay or Wax, as before.

As soon as you perceive the Graff and Stock to unite, and be incorporated together, cut off the head of the Stocks (hitherto left on) four inches above the binding, and in March following the remaining stub also, and the Cion or Graff underneath, and close to the grafted place, that it may subsist by the Stock only.

Some use to cut off the head of the Stock at first, and then joyn the Cion thereunto, after the manner of Shoulder-grafting, dif∣fering only in not severing the Cion from its own Stock: Both ways are good, but the first more successful.

This manner of Grafting is principally used in such Plants that are not apt to take any other way; as Oranges, Lemons, Pomgra∣nats, Vines, Gessamins, Althea-frutex, and such like. By this way also may attempts be made to Graff Trees of different kinds, one on the other, as Fruit-bearing Trees on those that bear not, and Flower-trees on Fruit-trees, and such like. I have also by this inverted the top of a Cion downwards into the Stock, which hath taken; and afterwards cut off the Graff three or four buds above the Stock, which grew, although but slowly, by means of the Sap being forced against its usual Current.

These are the most usual ways of Grafting: some other there are, but they differ so little from the former, and where they dif∣fer its rather for the worse; and therefore not worthy the men∣tioning.

Those Graffs that are bound, you must observe to unbinde them towards Mid-summer, lest the Band injures them.

Where their heads are so great that they are subject to the vio∣lence of the Winds, it's good to preserve them, by tying a stick to the Stock, which may extend to the top of the Graff, to which you may binde the Graff. The first year the best thriving Graffs are most in danger; afterwards they rarely suffer by the Winds.

Graffs are also subject to be injured by Birds; which may be prevented, by binding some small Bushes about the tops of the Stocks.

There is another way of Graffing lately invented, which is by taking a Graft or Sprig of the Tree you designe to propagate, and a small piece of the Root of another Tree of the same kinde, or very near it, and Whip-graft them together, and binde them well, and plant this Tree where you intend it shall stand, or in a Nursery; which piece of root will draw sap, and feed the Graft, as doth the Stock after the other ways.

You must observe to unite the two Butt-ends of the Graff and Root, and that the rinde of the Root joyn to the rinde of the Graft.

By this means the Roots of one Crab-stock or Apple-stock will serve you for 20 or 30 Apple-grafts: And in like manner of a Cherry or Merry-stock for as many Cherry-grafts; and so of Pears, Plums, &c.

Thus may you also raise a Nursery of Fruit-trees instead of Stocks, by planting them there, when they are too small to be planted abroad, where they are subject to prejudice.

This way, more than any other, is best for the raising of ten∣der Trees that will hardly endure the Grafting in the Stock; for here they are not exposed to the injuries of Sun, Wind or Rain.

It is also probable, that Fruits may be meliorated by Grafting them on Roots of a different kinde, because they are more apt to take this way than any other.

The Trees thus Grafted will bear sooner, and be more easily Dwarfed than any other, because part of the very Graft is with∣in the ground; which being taken off from a bearing sprig or branch, will blossom, and bear suddenly, in case the Root be able to maintain it.

The only Objection against this way is this, that the young Tree grows slowly at the first, which is occasioned by the smal∣ness of the Root that feeds the Graff; for in all Trees the Head must attend the encrease of the Root, from whence it hath its nourishment.

Nevertheless this work is easily performed, Roots being more plentiful than Stocks, and may be done in great quantities in a little time within doors, and then planted very easily, with a slender Dibble in your Nursery, and will in time infinitely re∣compence your pains.

SECT. VI. Of the Time and Manner of Inoculation.

Next unto Graffing, Inoculation takes place; by some pre∣ferred before any of the ways of Graffing before treated of: It differs from the other ways in this, that it's performed when the Sap is at the fullest in the Summer; and the other sorts of Graft∣ing are before the Sap ascends, or at least in any great quantity. Also by this way of Inoculation may several sorts of delicate Fruits and Trees be propagated and meliorated, which by Graft∣ing cannot be done, unless in the last way before-mentioned. As the Aprecock, Peach, or Nectorine, rarely thrives any other way than this, because few Stocks can feed the Graff with Sap so early in the Spring as the Graff requires it, which makes it frustrate your expectation; but being rightly Inoculated in the fulness of the Sap, rarely fails.

The Stocks on which you are to Inoculate, are to be of the same kinde, as before was directed to Graff on.

The Peach takes best on its own kinde; but the Nectorine thrives not well, unless upon a Peach-stock.

The time for this work is usually from Midsummer to the middle of July, when the sap is most in the stock. Some Trees, and in some places, and in some years, you may Inoculate from mid-May to mid-August. As to the time of the day, it is best in the Evening of a fair day, in a dry season; for Rain falling on the Buds before they have taken, will destroy most of them.

The Buds you intend to Inoculate must not be too young nor tender, but sufficiently grown: The Aprecock Buds are ready soonest; they must be taken from strong and well-grown shoots of the same Year, and from the strongest and biggest end of the same shoots.

If Buds be not at hand, the stalks containing them may be car∣ried many miles, and kept two or three days, being wrapt in fresh and moist Leaves and Grass, to keep them cool. If you think they are a little withered, lay the stalks in cold water two or three hours; and that, if any thing, will revive them, and make them come clean off the stocks.

Having your Buds and Instruments ready for your work, viz. a sharp-pointed Knife or Pen-knife, a Quill cut half away, and made sharp and smooth at the end to divide the Bud and Rinde from the Stalk; and Woollen Yarn, or dry Rushes, Flags, or such like, to binde them withal: Then,

On some smooth part of the stock, either near or farther from the ground, according as you intend it, either for a Dwarf-tree, or for the Wall, or a tall Standard, cut the Rinde of the stock overthwart; and from the middle thereof, gently slit the Bark or Rinde, about an inch long, in form of a T, not wounding the stock; then himbly prepare the Bud, by cutting of the leaf, and

leave only the Tail about half an inch from the Bud; then slit the Bark on each side the Bud, a little distance from the Bud, and take away the Bark above and below, leaving the Bark half an inch above and below the Bud, and sharpen that end of the Bark below the Bud, like a Shield or Escutcheon, that it may the more easily go down, and unite between the bark and the stock: Then with your Quill take off the bark and bud dexte∣rously, that you leave not the root behinde; for if you see a hole under the bud on the inside, the root is gone, cast it away, and prepare another. When your bud is ready, raise the bark of the stock on each side in the slit, (preserving as carefully as you can the inner thin rinde of the stock) put in with care the shield or bud between the bark and stock, thrusting it down until the top joyn to the cross cut; then binde it close with your Yarn, &c. but not on the Bud it self.

There is another way of Inoculation more ready than this, and more successful, and differs from the former only that the bark is slit upwards from the cross cut, and the shield or bud put upwards, leaving the lower end longer than may serve; and when it is in its place, cut off that which is superfluous, and joyn the bark of the bud to the bark of the stock, and binde it as before; which sooner and more successfully takes than the other, as I my self have experienced.

I have also cut the edges of the bark about the bud square, and have cut the bark of the stock fit to receive the same, and bound it fast; which succeeded well, and is the readier way, and more facile.

About three weeks or a moneths time after your Inoculation, you may unbinde the buds, lest the binding injure the bud and stock.

When you unbinde them, you may discern which are good, and have taken, and which not; the good appear Verdant, and well coloured, the other appear dead and withered.

In March following cut off the stock three fingers above the bud; and the next year cut it close, that the bud may cover the stock, as Graffs usually do.

SECT. VII. Of raising Fruit-trees by the Seeds, Stones, Nuts, or Kernels.

We have given you a short Survey of such Fruits as are propa∣gated by Grafting and Inoculation, and the way or method of promoting the same. Now we are to touch upon some few Trees or Fruits that are raised from their own Seed or Kernel, as Al∣monds, Services, Wall-nuts, and Filberds. Some others there are, as Oranges, Lemons, and such like, not necessary for our Rural Theatre; therefore I shall say little to them.

But the only known and beneficial way to propagate the Wall-nut-tree,

is from the Nut; which from the time of gathering of them you may keep, and preserve in Beds of Sand or Earth till March; and then plant them, if you can, in the places where they are to abide; for so will they prosper exceedingly, and much more than any removed: but if you remove any, be cautious of cutting the branches or roots, lest you endanger the Tree.

Be careful to preserve the Nuts from Mice; for if they can come at them, you will have but few left. Although I planted some hundreds in their Husks, and a great number of them wrap∣ped in Clay, yet were all to a very few transplanted by the Mice.

Filberds also may be raised from the Nut, and are easier ob∣tained, and carried farther, than the Suckers or Plants of the same Tree, and are raised and ordered as Wall-nuts are.

It's the best and most usual way also to raise Almond-trees from the stone, which must be set in the place they are to abide, not easily growing after a remove.

Chesnuts and Services are also raised from the Fruit of them, by being sown in your Seminary, and thence removed.

SECT. VIII. Of raising and propagating Fruit-trees, by Layers, Slips, and Suckers.

There are also several sorts of Fruits that are to be raised with more advantage and facility from Layers, Slips or Suckers, than from Graffing, Inoculation, or from the Seed; and such are Cod∣lings, Gennet-Moyls, Quinces, Filberds, Vines, Figs, Mulberries, Goosberries, Currans and Barberries.

The Kentish Codling is very easily propagated by slips or suckers, and is of so good a nature as to thrive being set very near, that they make a very ornamental hedge, which will bear plentifully, and make a most pleasant prospect; the fruit whereof, besides the ordinary way of stewing, baking, &c. being very early, makes a delicate Cider for the first drinking.

These Trees ought not to be topt or plashed, as is usual, they growing tall and handsom, which if topt decay, and grow stub∣by and unpleasant; neither do they bear so well.

The Gennet-Moyl-Tree will be propagated by Slips or Cions, as is the Codling, but is not so apt to grow in a hedge as the o∣ther: Both of them bear sooner, if grafted, as other Apples are.

The manner of raising the Quince we have already discour∣sed, where we treated of raising Stocks to Graff on.

Filberds are generally drawn as Suckers from the old Trees, and will prosper very well, and sooner come to be Trees, than from the Nut.

Any shoot of the last year, more especially if a short piece of the former years growth be cut with it, will grow, being laid a∣bout a foot or eighteen inches within the ground long-ways, and not above two or three Buds at most out of the ground, about

the moneth of February, and watred well in the drought of Sum∣mer.

The Fig-tree yieldeth Suckers, which is the usual way to mul∣tiply them.

The Mulberry is a very difficult Tree to raise, and is best done thus: Cut a Bough off as big as a mans Arm, and cut it in pieces a yard long, or less: lay all these in the ground a foot deep, on∣ly one end out of the ground about a hands breadth; let it be in fat and moist ground, or usually watred; and after a year or two divers young Springs may be drawn with Roots, and plant∣ed at a distance, and the old Roots will yet send out more.

These three kinds of Fruits yield such plenty of Suckers, that you never need doubt of a supply.

But if you desire Plants from the same, or any other sorts of precious Fruits or Plants, and where you cannot obtain Suckers from the Roots, and where the branches will not easily take root, being separated from the Tree, you may obtain your desire by bending down some branch of the Tree to the ground; and with a hooked stick thrust into the ground, stay the same in its place, and cover the same branch with good Earth, as thick as you shall think fit, and keep the same well watred; or if you can∣not bring the branch to the Earth, you may have some Earthen pot, Basket, or such like, with a hole in the bottom, and fasten the same to the wall (if against a wall) or on some Post or Stake: Put the Sprig or Branch you intend to plant through at the hole, and fill the same with good Earth, and water it often as before: Some prick the Rinde that is in the Earth full of holes, that it may the better issue thereout small Roots; others advise to cut away the Bark. This may be done in the Spring, from March to May, and the Plant will be fit to cut off below the Earth the Winter following. By this means you may obtain the Plants of Vines, Mulberries, or any manner of choice Fruits or Plants.

SECT. IX. Of the Transplanting of Trees.

The best and most successful time for the transplanting or re∣moving of Trees (such that shed their leaves in the Winter) whe∣ther they are the young Stocks, or new Graffed Trees, or of longer standing, is in the Autumnal Quarter, when the Trees have done growing: about the end of September you may be∣gin; the prime time is about the middle of October. You may continue till the Tree begins to bud, if the weather be open.

Be careful in taking up the Plants, that requiring great care of the Remover. See the Roots be left on as much as may, especi∣ally the spreading Roots, and let the Roots be larger than the head, the more ways they spread the better; but you may take away such Roots as run downwards: Also take off the leaves, if any, lest they weaken the Branches by extracting the Sap.

The younger and lesser the Tree is, the more likely he is to thrive and prosper, because he suffers less injury by the removal than an older or greater Tree: And an Orchard of young Trees will soon overtake another planted with larger Trees at the same time.

Plant not too deep, for the Over-turf is always richer than the next Mould: And in such places where the Land is Clayish, o∣ver-moist, or Spewy, plant as near the Surface as you can, or a∣bove it, and raise the Earth about the Tree, rather than set the Tree in the wet or Clay. The same Rule observe in Gravelly or Chalky Land, for the Roots will seek their way downwards, but rarely upwards: That I have known Trees planted too deep pine away, and come to nothing. This Rule observed, many places may be made fruitful Orchards that now are judged impossible, or not worth ones while.

In the transplanting of your young Trees, you may Prune as well the branches as the roots, taking away the tops of the bran∣ches of Apples and Pears, but not of Plums, Cherries, nor of Wall-nuts.

The Coast also is necessary to be observed, especially if the Tree be of any considerable bigness, that the same side may stand South that was South before, the Tree will thrive the better: Although in small Trees it be not much observed, yet it might prove none of the least helps to its growth and thriving. The most facile way to preserve the memory of its scituation, is to mark the South or North side of the Plant with Oker, Chalk, or such like, before you remove it.

It is not a small check to a Plant, to be removed out of a warm Nursery into the open Field, where the Northern and Eastern Winds predominate; or its shelter to be removed, as by the cut∣ting down of Hedges, and other Trees that formerly defended them.

It is also very necessary to be observed, that the ground into which you plant your Tree be of a higher and richer Mould than from whence you removed it, if you expect your Tree to thrive; the change of Soyls or Pastures, from the worser to the better, being of very high concernment for the improvement and ad∣vance of all Vegetables and Animals.

These, and several other the like Observations, if they can be observed, will much advantage the growth of your Tree for the first year or two; but if place and time, and other accidents will not admit thereof, in a short time the Plant may by the care and diligence of the Planter, overcome those inconveniencies or obstructions.

Let not the Ground wherein you plant Apples be too much enriched with Dung, they requiring rather a vulgar and ordi∣nary light Mould.

According to the nature or quantity of your ground or Trees may the distance be; but the usual distance, and most convenient for Apple-trees or Pear-trees for an Orchard, may be from twen∣ty

to thirty foot, if you expect the benefit of the Land, under and between them, either for Grass or Tillage, or that you plant them in your Fields or Pastures; then from thirty to sixty foot may your distance be: The farther distance they are, the more bene∣fit and refreshment do they receive from the Sun and Air; the Fruit are much the better, and the Trees prosper the better al∣so: And if they are too near together, the ground is for the most part of no advantage under them, neither do the Trees thrive so well, nor are so fertil.

Cherry-trees, Plum-trees, Quince-trees, and such like, may be planted about fifteen or twenty foot distance, which is sufficient.

Wall-trees may be planted at such a distance, as the height or bredth of the Wall, the nature of the Tree, and the nature of the ground requires: the higher the Wall, the nearer together the Trees; and the lower the Wall, the farther distance, that they may have the room to spread in bredth which they want in height. Vines require a more spacious and ample Wall or place to spread against than any other Fruit; next to that the Pear, then the Aprecock, the Peach, the Nectorine, and then the Cherry, the May-cherry, &c.

For the distance of other small Trees, as Filberds, Goosber∣ries, Currans, &c. you may plant them at such convenient di∣stance, that the branches may not intangle the one in the other, according to your own discretion.

Codlings, Cherries, Plums, &c. may be planted to make hedges withal, and then are to be planted near together: the nearer, the sooner it will be a hedge; the farther distance, the more Fruit will they bear, but not so soon a hedge.

If you designe to fill your Plat of Ground with all sorts of Fruits for your greatest advantage, then plant several Rows of Apples and Pear-trees at a convenient distance in each Row, but the Rows of a farther distance each from the other; and then about ten or fifteen foot on each side the Rows of the greater Trees, plant a Row of Cherries, Plums, or such like Trees, of a lesser stature or growth, and nearer together than the Apple or Pear-trees: Next unto them also, at a convenient distance, a Row of Filberds; and next unto them Goosberries, Currans, Rasber∣ries, or such like small Fruit, leaving only a Walk between the lesser Trees: For by this means will the whole ground be sup∣plied; and by that time that the greater Trees are grown to any competent stature, the lesser will be decayed, that the greater Trees may have the sole Predominancy.

But the most compleat order in the planting of an Orchard of the larger Fruit-trees, is that which they term the Quincunx, by planting them at an equal distance every way, only with this ob∣servation, that every Tree of the second Row may stand against the middle of the space of the first, in the third against the space of the second, and so throughout; which makes it appear plea∣sing to the eye, in what part of the Orchard soever you stand.

In planting of Trees observe this Rule, that if the crooked∣ness

of the Tree will inforce you to plant it leaning, or tending any way, let it be to the West, from whence the strongest winds blow, or to such Coast your Orchard is most obvious.

SECT. X. Of the Pruning of Trees.

It conduceth very much to the proof and growth of a Tree to be Pruned, or the unnecessary and injurious branches to be taken off by the skilful hand of the Husbandman.

When your Graffs are grown half a Yard high, those you finde to shoot up in one Lance, pinch off their tender tops; which will prevent their mounting, and cause them to put forth side-branches. It's found to be the best way to guide a Tree either to grow, or extend it self in height, or to cause it to spread in bredth: It gives not that wound to Trees that Incisions or Lan∣ces usually do; and besides, this may be done at that season, when the taking away of a Bud prevents the expence of Sap in waste, and diverts its course to others necessary to remain.

In March is the best time to take away the small and super∣fluous branches, giving the Lance close behinde a Bud, a thing to be specially observed in Pruning.

Wall-trees are to be pruned in the Summer, and in the Winter. In the Summer about June or July, you may take of such super∣fluous sprigs or shoots of the same years growth off from Vines, Aprecocks, or other Trees that put forth many large shoots, that impede the Fruit from its due Maturation, and contract much of the sap of the Tree to themselves, and thereby rob the other.

In the Winter, as soon as the leaves are off the Trees, you may Prune and cut away the residue of the branches, and place those that are fit to be left in order. This work may be continu∣ed throughout the Winter to the rising of the Sap, except in great Frosts, when it is not good to wound the Vine, or any o∣ther tender plant. Some hold February to be the best time to plash, prune, and nail Trees, after the great Frosts are past, except Peaches and Nectorines; which being cut before the rising of the Sap, are apt to die after the Knife, and so stump and deform the Tree: Therefore such must be left till they begin to put forth Buds and Blossoms.

The greater Trees in your Gardens, Orchards, Fields, &c. may be pruned in October, November, or thenceforward, to the rising of the Sap. Observe to cut away superfluous branches, such as cross one the other, as grow too thick, or that offend any other Tree or place, or that are broken, bruised, or decaying; the Tree will be the better preserved, and the remaining branches will yield the greater increase.

In Pruning of Trees, especially the Wall-tree, be sure to leave the small Twigs that are short and knitted to blossom the suc∣ceeding year; for you may observe, that most Aprecocks, Peaches,

Plums, Cherries, &c. hang on those Sprigs, being usually of two years growth: These are therefore to be carefully nourished, and not cut off, as is usual, to beautifie the Tree. By this very Obser∣vation your Walls shall be full of Fruit, when your Neighbours have but few.

In Wall-fruit cut off all gross shoots, however fair they seem to the eye, that will not without much bending be well placed to the Wall; for if any branch happen to be wreathed or brui∣sed in the bending or turning (which you may not easily per∣ceive) although it doth grow and prosper for the present, yet it will decay in time; the Sap or Gum will also spew out in that place. By neglect of this Observation, many seeming fair Trees decay in several parts, when the Husbandman is ignorant of the cause.

In Pruning the Vine, leave some new branches every year, and take away (if too many) some of the old; which much advan∣tageth the Tree, and encreaseth its fruit.

When you cut your Vine, leave two knots, and cut at the next interval; for usually the two Buds yields a bunch of Grapes. I have observed Vines thus pruned to bear many fair bunches, when cut close, as usually is done for Beauty sake (which by the Husbandman is not in this case to be regarded) the Tree hath been almost barren of Fruit.

When you cut any Pithy Tree, the Vine especially, make your Lance, if the Sprig be upright, on the North-side; if slo∣ping, then make your Lance under, or on one side, that the wet or Rain lodge not on it, nor decay the Pith, which usually dam∣nifies the next Bud, and sometimes more.

SECT. XI. Other necessary Observations about Fruit-trees.

Where the ground is shallow, or lieth near Gravel, Clay, Stone or Chalk, or near the Water, take the top of one half of the same Land, and lay it on the other in Ridges, abating the inter∣vals like unto Walks, and plant the Trees on the midst of the Ridges; by which means they will have double the quantity of Earth to root in that they had before, and the Walks or Inter∣vals preserve the Ridges from superfluous moisture. It hath been found an approved Remedy in dry shallow Land, as well as in low wet Land.

It hath been observed, that Pear-trees will thrive and prosper in cold, moist, hungry, stony, and gravelly Land, where Apples will not bear so well.

The Roots of such Trees that thrive not, nor bear well, may be laid open about November; and if the ground be poor and hungry, then towards the Spring apply good fat Mould there∣to; but if the ground be over-fat and rich, that the Tree spends it self in Branches and Leaves with little Fruit, then apply to the

Roots, Ashes or Lime, or any of the Composts that are salt, hot and dry, mixed with the Earth, which contain more of fertility than the ordinary Dung.

Also laying store of any manner of Vegetables all the Summer about the roots of Fruit-trees, to kill the Grass and Weeds grow∣ing about the Tree, it keeps the ground moist and cool, and adds much to the flourishing and fertility of the Tree, and is the best Natural Remedy against the Moss; so that it lye not too near the Tree, to decay the Bark thereof.

Digging or Ploughing about the Roots of Fruit-trees, adds much to their fertility, and prevents the Moss in most Trees.

Stones laid in heaps about the Roots, preserves them cool and moist in the Summer, and warm in Winter; and is of great use and concernment to the fertility and advance of the growth of Fruit-trees.

The ground wherein you plant your Fruit-trees, if you finde it not suitable to the Nature of the Tree, may be several ways al∣tered as before: and by the applying of Earth, Clay, or Sand, of a divers Nature from the ground where the Tree grows.

If your Orchard or Garden be not naturally well scituate, and defended from the injurious winds by Hills or Woods; or that Buildings, Barns, Walls, or such like, are not conveniently scitu∣ate near to preserve it, it is of great advantage to raise a perpe∣tual, lasting, and pleasant shelter, by planting a compleat Thorn-hedge about the same at the time, or in that Year you first plant your Orchard or Garden, which will grow in a few years to a considerable height, and very much break the cold winds, and preserve the smaller and lower part of the greater Trees, in their blossoming and kerning time, from the nipping winds: But for that, that the principallest parts of the greater Trees exceed the Summity of the White-thorn, the Wallnut-tree raised in time on the borders or naked sides of the Orchard or Garden, and if you can on the out-sides of the Fences, will prove a Noble and profitable defence from the furious winds.

If you regard not the Fruit or profit, so much as the pleasure and sudden rise of such a defence, that which is most facile and expeditious to be raised is the Poplar, which may be planted near together, and ten or fifteen foot in height the first year, which will prove and thrive wonderfully, especially if the ground be any whit inclineable to moisture.

Or the Lime-tree, if you can conveniently obtain them, make a close and secure defence from the winds, and of all other is the most odoriferous, regular, and delicious verdant pale to a Gar∣den or Orchard. The Sycamore, and the Elm also are not to be rejected; only the Elm hath an ill name, as being subject to raise or attract Blights.

At the removal of Trees, the trimmings of the roots planted, or rather buried in the ground within a quarter of an inch, or lit∣tle more of the level of the Bed, will sprout and grow to be very good Stocks.

Pigeons dung, or the dung of Poultry, or any Fowl, being of a hot, dry, and salt Nature, hath been experimentally found to be the Soyl most conducing to fertility for Fruit-trees, especially in cold grounds.

It is usual to select aspiring Trees, and to expect the fairer Trees (because taller) and better and more Fruit, than those that are low. Tis true, the more remote the branches are from the Earth, the less are they subject to the injuries of Cattel, or the Fruit to light fingers.

But the lower the Tree brancheth it self and spreads, the fairer and sooner will it attain to be a Tree, and the greater burthen will it bear of Fruit, and those better and larger. The Tree and Fruit will also be less obvious to the furious winds, which make havock most years of a great part of our stock; and in the Spring the new-kerned Fruit will be more within the shelter of the Natural or Artificial Securities from the nipping cold morning Breese; and the Fruit, when ripe and apt to fall, will not receive so great injury from the humble, as from the aspiring Tree. Sed medio Virtus. As the tall Tree is not for your ad∣vantage; so the Tree that's too low is not for your conveniency. I aim not at Extremes.

In many places Fruit-trees are much injured by Moss; it rarely grows on Trees where the ground is yearly digged, ploughed, or otherwise preserved from Grass or Weeds, as we noted before. If the cold, moist, or barren nature of the ground be the cause, then rectifie the same, as before. After Rain you may scrape off the Moss with a knife, or rub it off with a Hair-cloth.

If the Tree be Bark-bound, and thrive not well, with a knife you may slit the Bark down the body of the Tree in April or May, and it will cure it.

If the Cleft where the Tree was grafted, or any other wound∣ed place be neglected, the Rain is apt to ingender the Canker: the cure is difficult, if too far gone. There are many prescripti∣ons for the cure of it; but if the cutting off of the Canker or cankered-branches will not cure it, and the Tree be much in∣fected with it, the best way is to place a better in the room.

Some Trees are hurt with small Worms that breed between the bark and wood, which makes the bark swell: cut away part of the bark, and wash with Urine and Cow-dung.

Strong or hot dung is not good for Fruit-trees; but after it is throughly rotten and cold, it may be mixed in cold grounds with success, but in rich or warm Land. Any dirt or soyl that lies in streets or high-ways, where it may be had, is best, especially for the Apple-tree.

Commonly Husbandmen apply Soyl, Fern, &c. to the stems of their Trees; and if they dig to apply it, it is usually near the body of the Tree, which will not answer the trouble; for the Roots that feed the Tree, spread far from the Trunk or Stem: therefore the soyl that is to be applied should be laid at a con∣venient distance proportionable to the spreading of the Roots;

wherein the long standing of the Tree is to be considered; dig∣ging about, the roots of Trees should also be used accordingly.

In planting of Trees, it's usual to apply good Mould, or other additional soyl, to fill up the Foss after the placing the Tree; which conduceth not so much to the prosperity of the Plant, as to place the better Mould or soyl in the bottom of the Foss, and then plant your Tree on it, spreading its roots over the good soyl; for all roots of Plants as naturally tend downwards and side-ways, as the branches spread and advance upwards: So that the soyl that lies above the roots, only yields some fatness which the Rain washeth down unto them; but the soyl that is under, the roots flourish in it. The difference, in this case, may at any time be sensibly perceived by the experienced.

SECT. XII. Of the use and benefit of Fruits.

Not any of the afore-mentioned Fruits, but are very plea∣sant, necessary, and profitable to many of our English Palats and Purses; the most of them being a familiar food to the Noble and Ignoble. These extend their vertue also to the cure of many infirmities or diseases, being judiciously applied.

But over and above their use for food, for pleasure, and for Physick, to be converted into so many several sorts of curious, pleasant, palatable, and lasting Liquors, is not the least of the be∣nefits accrewing unto the Husbandman from the diversity of Fruits by him propagated. Next unto Wine (whereof we treat not in this place) Cider is esteemed the most pleasant natural Li∣quor our English Fruits afford.

Several are the ways used in making this excellent Liquor, and that according to the skill of the Operator, and divers kinds of the Fruit whereof it is made.

Cider-fruits may be reduced into two sorts or kinds; either the wilde, harsh, and common Apple, growing in great plenty in Hereford, Worcester, and Gloucestershire, and in several other ad∣jacent places in the fields and hedg-rows, and planted in several other places of England for Cider only, not at all tempting the Palate of the Thief, nor requiring the charge and trouble of the more reserved inclosures.

Or the more curious Table-fruits, as the Pippin, Pearmain, &c. which are by many preferred to make the best Cider, as having in them a more Cordial and pleasant Juice than other Apples.

For the former, the best sorts for Cider are found to be the Red-streak, the White-Must, and the Green-Must, the Gennet-Moyl, Eliots, Stocken-Apple, Summer-Fillet, Winter-Fillet, &c.

The greater part of them being meerly savage, and so harsh, that hardly Swine will eat them, yet yielding a most plentiful, smart and winy Liquor, comparable, or rather exceeding the best French-Wines: And for the advantage of planting them,

they claim a preference before Pippins, or any other of our pleasant Garden-fruits, especially the Red-streak, which Mr. Eve∣lin so highly commends, as at three years grafting to give you fair hopes, and last almost an hundred years; and will bear as much Fruit at ten years, as Pippins or Pearmains at thirty.

The best sorts of Cider-fruit are far more succulent, and the Liquor more easily divides from the Pulp of the Apple, than in the best Table-fruit.

Some observe, the more of red any Apple hath in his rinde, the better for Cider; the paler, the worse. No sweet Apple that hath a tough rinde, is bad for Cider.

Cider-Apples require full maturity, e're they be taken from the Trees: And after they are gathered (which is to be done with as much caution as may be, to preserve them from bruises) it very much conduces to the goodness and lasting of the Cider, to let them lye a week or two on heaps out of the Rain and Dew: the harsher and more solid the Fruit is, the longer may they lye; the more mellow and pulpy, the less time. This makes them sweat forth their Aqueous Humidity, injurious to the Cider, and matureth the Juice remaining, and digesteth it more than if on the Tree, or in the Vessel: But it's probable they will yield more from the Tree than so kept, but not so good.

Such that are Wind-falls, bruised, or any ways injured, or un∣ripe fruit, divide from the sound and mature. It's better to make two sorts of Cider, the one good, the other bad, than only bad. Take away all stalks, leaves, and rotten Apples; the stalks and leaves give an ill taste to the Cider, the rotten Apples makes it deadish.

Let such that are through casualty, or otherwise fallen from the Trees before their full time of maturity, be kept to the full time, else will not the Cider be worth the drinking.

About twenty, or twenty two bushels of good Cider-Apples from the Tree, will make a Hogshead of Cider; after they have lain a while in heaps to mellow, about twenty five bushels will make a Hogshead.

Then either grinde them in a Horse-mill, like as Tanners grinde their Bark, or beat them with Beaters in a Trough of Wood, rather than of Stone; the more they are ground or bea∣ten, the better.

After the grinding it should be prest, either being Artificial∣ly made up with Straw, in form of a Cheese, as the experienced Country-man may direct you; or in a Hair-bag (the more ordi∣nary way for small quantities) and so committed to the Press; of which there are several sorts, but the Screw-press is to be pre∣ferred.

After it's prest, strain it, and put it into the Vessel, and place it wherein it may stand to ferment, allowing but a small Vent-hole, lest the spirits waste: Fill not the Vessel quite till it hath done working; then fill the Vessel of the same kept for that purpose, and stop it well, only with caution at the first, lest it break the Vessel.

The best Vessels for the Tunning up of Cider, and to preserve it, are those whereof the Barrel-boards are streight, the Vessel broader at the one end than the other, and standing on the lesser end, the Bung-hole on the top; the conveniency is, that in the drawing the Cider, though but slowly, the Skin or Cream con∣tracted by its Fermentation descends, and wholly covers the Li∣quor by the tapering of the Vessel, and thereby preserves the Spirits of the Cider to the last, which otherwise would waste and expend themselves.

If you intend a mixture of water with your Cider, let it be done in the grinding, and it will better incorporate with the Cider in the grinding and pressing, than afterwards.

Some Cider will bear a mixture with water, without injury to its preservation, others will not; therefore be not over-hasty with too much at once, till you understand the nature of your Fruit.

Some advise, that before it be prest, the Liquor and Must should for four and twenty hours ferment together in a Vat for that pur∣pose close covered, which is said to enrich the Liquor.

The other sorts of Fruits for the making of Cider, are the Pip∣pin, Pearmain, Gilliflower, &c. by many preferred; with whom we may rank all sorts of Summer-Apples, as the Kentish Codling, Marigolds, all other sorts of Pippins and Pearmains, &c.

Which after they are through ripe, and laid on heaps to sweat (as before is directed) and grownd or beaten, and prest as the o∣ther, then is not this Cider or Must to be tunned up immediately, but suffered to stand in the Vat four and twenty hours, or more; according as the Apples were more or less pulpy, and close cover∣ed with Hair-cloaths or Sacks, that too much of the Spirits may not exaporate, nor be kept so closely in as to cause Fermentati∣on; in which time the more gross part of the Feces will preci∣pitate or fall to the bottom, which otherwise would have preju∣diced the Cider by an over-fermentation, and have made it flat and sowre.

Then at a Tap, three or four inches from the bottom of the Vat, draw forth the Cider, and Tun it up, wherein is yet a suffici∣ent quantity of that gross Lee or Feces to cause Fermentation; the want of the right understanding whereof, is one of the main causes of so much bad Cider throughout England.

2. Of the making of Perry.

Non omnis fert omnia tell us. In some places Pears will thrive where Apples will not; the Trees are larger, and bear greater quantities than Apple-trees. In Worcestershire they have great plenty of Pears for Perry; and also in the adjacent Countries: The best for Perry are such that are not fit to be eaten; so harsh, that Swine will not eat, nay hardly smell to them; the fitter to be planted in Hedg-rows, &c. The Bosbury-Pear, the Horse-Pear, the Bareland-Pear, and the Choak-Pear, are such that bear

the name of the best Pears for Perry; the redder they are, the more to be preferred.

Pears are to be fully mature e're they be grownd, and let lye on heaps as the Apples.

Crabs and Pears grownd together, make an excellent Liquor; the Crabs helping to preserve the Perry.

The method of making Perry differeth not from that of Cider.

3. Some Observations concerning Cider.

Thick Cider may by a second Fermentation be made good and clear; but Acid Cider is rarely recovered.

Wheat unground, about a Gallon to a Hogshead, or Leven or Mustard ground with Cider, or much better with Sack, a pint to a Hogshead, is used either to preserve or recover Cider that's in danger of spoiling.

Ginger accelerateth the Maturation of the Cider; giveth it a more brisky Spirit, helpeth Fermentation, and promoteth its du∣ration.

New Vessels affect the Cider with an ill savour, and deep co∣lour; therefore if you cannot obtain Wine-Cask, which are the best, nor yet can season your own with Beer, or other Drinks, then scald it with water, wherein a good quantity of Apple-Pounce hath been boiled.

If the Vessel be tainted, then boil an ounce of Pepper in water, enough to fill the Vessel; and let it stand therein two or three days.

Or take some quick Lime and put in the Vessel, which slacken with water: close stop it, and tumble it up and down, till the Commotion cease.

Two or three Eggs put into a Hogshead of Cider that is sharp, sometimes lenifies it: Two or three rotten Apples will clarifie thick Cider.

The mildness and temperature of the weather is of much con∣cernment in the Fermentation of Cider.

Boil Cider immediately after the Press, before Fermentation.

Wheaten-Bran cast in after Fermentation, thickens the Coat or Cream, and much conduceth to its preservation.

The Cider that runs from the ground, or beaten Apples, before they are in the Press, is much to be preferred.

Let the Vessel not be quite full, that there may be room for the Cider to gather a head or Cream.

Pearmains make but small Cider of themselves.

Botling is the only way to preserve Cider long: It may be botled two or three days after it is well setled, and before it hath throughly fermented; or you may bottle it in March following, which is the best time.

Bottles may be kept all the Summer in cold Fountains, or in Cellars in Sand: If they are well Corked and bound, they may be kept many years in cold places; the longer the better, if the Cider be good.

After Cider hath been botled a week, (if New Cider, else at the time of botling) you may put into each bottle a piece of white Sugar as big as a Nutmeg; this will make it brisk.

If your bottles be in danger of the Frost, cover them with straw: about April set them in Sand, or in a Fountain.

It is not the best way to grinde or beat Apples in Stone-troughs, because it bruises the kernels and tails of the Fruit too much, which gives an ill savour to the Cider; but beaten or ground in wooden-troughs, frees it from that quality.

After your Apples are beaten or ground, it's the best way to let them stand a day or two before you press them; for the Ci∣der doth a little ferment and maturate in the Pulp, and obtains a better colour, than if immediately pressed.

After they are pressed, it's good to let the Cider stand in a Vat covered, to ferment a day and night, before you Tun it up; and then draw it from the Vat by a Tap, about two inches from the bottom, or more, according to discretion, leaving the Feces behinde; which will not be lost, if you put it up on the Chaff; for then it meliorates your Pur, or Water-Cider, if you make any.

When your Cider is Tunn'd into the Barrel where you in∣tend to keep it, leave some small vent open for several days, un∣til its wilde spirit be spent; which will otherwise break the Bar∣rel, or finde some vent that will always abide open (though but small) to the ruine of your Cider. Many have spoiled their Ci∣der by this only neglect, and never apprehended the cause there∣of; which when stopt close, after this wilde spirit is spent (al∣though seemingly flattish at first) will improve, and become brisk and pleasant Cider in a little time.

If Cider prove thick or sowrish, bruise a few Apples, and put in at the Bung of your Barrel, and it will beget a new Fermen∣tation, and very much mend your Cider, so that in a few days after you draw it off into another Vessel.

If Cider be only a little sowrish, or drawn off in another Ves∣sel, the way to correct or preserve it, is to put about a Gallon of Wheat (blaunch'd is best) to a Hogshead of Cider; and so, according to that proportion, to a greater or lesser quantity, which will as well amend as preserve it.

If Cider hath any ill savour or taste from the Vessel, or any other cause, a little Mustard-seed ground with some of the Ci∣der, and put to it, will help it.

Mixture of Fruit is of great advantage to your Cider: the meanest Apples mixt make as good Cider, as the best alone; al∣ways observing, that they be of equal ripeness, except the Red-streak, and some few celebrated Cider-Apples.

4. Of the Wines or Juices of other Fruits.

If Cherries were in so great plenty that the Markets would not take them off at a good rate, they would become very benefi∣cial

to be converted into Wine, which they would yield in great quantity, very pleasant and refreshing; and a finer, cooler, and more natural Summer-drink than Wine. It may also be made to keep long: Some hath been kept a whole year, and very good.

Although it may not prove so brisk, clear, and curious a drink as Cherry-wine, yet where Plums are in great plenty, (they being Trees easily propagated) a very good Wine may be made of them; according to the great diversity of this sort of Fruit, you must expect divers Liquors to proceed from them. The black tawny Plum is esteemed the best.

This Fruit yields a good Wine, being prepared by a skilful hand; the natural Juice serves, and is of excellent use to add a tincture to other paler Wines or Liquors.

England yields not a Fruit whereof can be made a more plea∣sant drink, or rather Wine, than of this humble Fruit; if com∣pounded with other Wines or drinks, it animates them with so high a fragrant savour and gust, that it tempts the most curious Palats.

The juice of this Fruit, boiled with a proportionable additi∣on of water and Sugar, makes a very pleasant Wine to the eye and taste, it being duly fermented and botled. A great quanti∣ty of this Fruit may also be raised in a little ground, and in a few years.

Of the Juice of Goosberries extracted in it's due time, and mixed with water and Sugar, is prepared a very pleasant cooling Repast. This Fruit is easily propagated, and yields much Li∣quor: It's usually made unboiled, because it contracts a brown colour in the boiling.

As for any other Liquors, Preservations, or Conservations of these or any other Fruits, I leave you to the many Tracts pub∣lished already on that Subject.

Notes

• 1 Of Apples.
• Apples.
• Profits of Ap∣ples.
• Legacy.
• 2 Of Pears.
• 3 Of Cherries.
• Legacy.
• 4 Of Wall-nuts. Sylva.
• 5 Of Filberts.
• 6 Of Quinces.
• Legacie.
• 7 Of Mulber∣ries.
• Hartlib's Le∣gacie.
• Legacie.
• 8 Of Plums.
• Legacie.
• 9 Of Med∣lars.
• 10 Of Bar∣berries.
• 11 Of Al∣monds. Legacie.
• 12 Of the Service-Tree.
• 13 Of Goose∣berries.
• 14 Of Cur∣rans.
• 15 Rasberries.
• 1 Of the Vine.
• Hartlib's Le∣gacy.
• Treatise of Fruit-trees.
• Hartlib's Le∣gacy.
• Vine.
• 2 Of Aprecocks
• 3 Of Peaches, &c.
• 4 Of Figs.
• 5 Of Currans.
• Other Fruits.
• 1 By Graft∣ing.
• Stock to Graft on.
• For Apples.
• For Pears.
• For Cherries.
• For Plums.
• For Medlars.
• For Filberds, and Services.
• For Quinces.
• 2 By Inocu∣lation.
• Aprecocks, &c.
• Goosberries, &c.
• 1 The time for Graffing.
• Evelin's Po∣mona.
• 2 Choice of Graffs.
• Austin of Fruit-trees.
• 3 The keeping of Graffs.
• 4 Instruments for Grafting.
• Grafting in the Cleft.
• Grafting in the Bark.
• Shoulder, or Whip-graffing.
• First way.
• The second way.
• Graffing by Approach.
• A new way of Graffing.
• 1 The time for Inoculation.
• 2 The choice of Buds.
• 3 Instruments for Inoculation.
• 4 The manner of Inoculation.
• Another way to Inoculate.
• Another way.
• Wall-nuts.
• Filberds.
• Almonds.
• Chesnuts, and Services.
• Codlings.
• Gennet-Moyls.
• Quinces.
• Filberds.
• The Vine.
• Figs.
• Mulberries.
• Gooseberries, Currans, and Barberries. To lay the Branches of Trees.
• 1 The time to transplant.
• 2 The manner of transplant∣ing.
• 3 The distance of Trees.
• 1 The pruning of young Trees.
• 2 Of Wall-trees.
• 3 The pruning of old Trees.
• Other observa∣tions in pruning Trees.
• 1 Of the raising of Land.
• Pear-trees.
• 2 Of the order∣ing the Roots of old Trees.
• 3 Alteration of ground.
• 4 Defending Trees from Winds.
• White-thorn.
• Wallnut-tree.
• poplar.
• Lime-tree.
• 5 Raising Stocks.
• 6 Soyl for Fruit-trees.
• 7 Height of Trees.
• 8 Diseases of Trees. Moss.
• Bark-bound.
• Canker.
• Worms in the Bark.
• Soyl for Trees.
• How to apply Soyl to Trees.
• 1 By Cider.
• Cider-fruits.
• Making of Cider.
• Other Cider-Fruits.
• Sorts of Pears.
• Making of Perry.
• Botling of Cider.
• Wine of Plums.
• Mulberry-Wine
• Rasberry-Wine.
• Wine of Cur∣rans.
• Gooseberry-Wine.