The travels of Monsieur de Thevenot into the Levant in three parts, viz. into I. Turkey, II. Persia, III. the East-Indies / newly done out of French.

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Title
The travels of Monsieur de Thevenot into the Levant in three parts, viz. into I. Turkey, II. Persia, III. the East-Indies / newly done out of French.
Author
Thévenot, Jean de, 1633-1667.
Publication
London :: Printed by H. Clark, for H. Faithorne, J. Adamson, C. Skegnes, and T. Newborough ...,
1687.
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"The travels of Monsieur de Thevenot into the Levant in three parts, viz. into I. Turkey, II. Persia, III. the East-Indies / newly done out of French." In the digital collection Early English Books Online 2. https://name.umdl.umich.edu/A64495.0001.001. University of Michigan Library Digital Collections. Accessed May 6, 2024.

Pages

CHAP. LX. Of the City of Smyrna.

SMyrna a noted Town of Jonia was anciently founded by Tantalus, and since called Smyrna, from the name of one of the Amazones that invaded Asia, and took that Town; long after that, it was ruined by an Earthquake, and Re∣built by Marc Antony, nearer to the Sea, because of the commodiousness of the Harbour. It braggs of being the native place of the Poet Homer; and the Turks at present call it Ismyr. This is a large Town, and well inhabited both by Turks and Christians; but it is a kind of a melancholick place, and not at all Strong; it is commanded by a Castle of somewhat difficult access: this Castle is very ruinous, and but meanly guarded; you have a large Cist∣ern in it cut all out of a Rock, having five Mouths and several Chanels. Be∣low the Castle, as you go to Santa Veneranda, which is a Church of the Greeks, there is a great Amphitheatre, where St. Polycarp the Disciple of St. John and Bishop of Smyrna, suffered Martyrdom. It is very high, and in the up∣per part thereof, there are still five niches, where the Seats of the Magistrates were, not far from thence there are several Ruines of St. John's, Cathedral Church, which has been very large, and full of Chappels. In one of these Chappels there is a Tomb, which the Greeks believe to be the Sepulchre of St. Polycarp; But others (with more Reason) take it to be the Monument of some Turk. There is also another Castle below by the Marine or Sea-side, which is well Inhabited; and over the Gate of it, are the Arms of the Church of Rome; perhaps it hath been built by the Genoese, who were masters of Smyrna, and of all that Coast. This Castle shuts the Port, which is but little, and no Forreign Ships come into it, but ride at Anchor abroad in the Road, which is spacious and safe. It is difficult to get out of. Since I left Smyrna, they have built a Castle at the mouth of that Road, to hinder whom they please

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from coming in, or going out; because they were not secure from the Venetians, after the Battel of the Dardanelles, there being nothing that could hinder them from entering into the Road; from whence they might with ease have battered the Town, and taken it in a short time. Upon the side of this Road towards the Town, stands the Custome-house, and then the Houses of the Consuls and Merchants Franks, who have for the most part a back-door towards the Sea. In this town there is a Cady, who administers Justice: many Turks live there, as also Christians of all Countries; Greeks, Armenians, and Latins. The Greeks have an Arch-Bishop and two Churches there; in one of which called Santa Veneranda, the Arch-Bishop Officiates; and the other which is called St. George, belongs to the Monks. The Armenians have two Churches there also; and the Latins have the Capucins, who Officiate in their Church, which is overagainst the French Consuls House: the Jesuits have also a lovely House, with a Church in it. The Country about Smyrna is a plain very fer∣tile in many things, especially in Olive-Trees, and full of Gardens, which ren∣der the Town very pleasant to live in: all things are there in abundance, and such excellent Wine, that next to Canary, I never drank better than Smyrna Wine, when it is right. The Franks make it in their Houses, buying the Grapes by Basket-fulls in the Town. Partridges there are not worth above three or four Aspres a Couple; and when they cost five Aspres it is dear, and yet they are very good. In fine all things are good and cheap at Smyrna; but it is a Town much subject to Earthquakes, and hath been several times ruined by them; but still rebuilt, because of the convenience of its Scituation: no year passes without them; and I was told that some Years they felt very great Earthquakes for the space of fourty Days together, which began a fresh every half hour, and were felt even by the Ships in the Road, being tossed by the Wa∣ters, which were moved by the shaking of the Ground in the bottom. It would be very hot being in this Town in the Summer-time, were it not for the Wind, which they call the low Wind, or North Breeze; it is a certain Wind that blows from the North regularly every day, and much qualifies the Air. There is a great trade of Commodities from all parts of Asia and Christendom in this Town. While I was there, I had a great desire to see Ephesus, which was heretofore one of the seven Churches, as well as Smyrna, to which St. John directed his Revelations, where he Died, and wherein still remain to be seen the ruines of the Temple of Diana, one of the seven Wonders of the World; and to the Ornament and Embellishment whereof all the Kings of Asia contributed so long; which was burn'd by Ero∣stratus, who thereby coveted to Immortalize his Memory. There are ma∣ny other things worth the seeing at Ephesus, which made me willing to have undertaken a progress of three or four days; for Ephesus is no more than fourty Miles from Smyrna: But Monsieur Du puy the French Consul, who shewed me in that Country all kinds of civility, would needs take me off on't, because of Robbers that were upon the Roads; who were a remnant of those that were routed at the Dardanelles, and who gave no Quarter, especially to Christians: but finding at length that I was earnest upon it, he took the pains of chusing two Janizaries to wait upon me, of whom one who himself had been a Robber many years, promised to bring me safe back again, as pretending acquaintance of these Robbers. I had already hired Horses, and prepared to be gone next Morning; but a Feaver that took me in the Evening, quite broke off the Journey: for being recovered seven or eight days after; they made me look upon that slight Distemper as a war∣ning; and at length I yielded to the perswasions of those who had the good∣ness to divert me from that Journey, as thinking it Dangerous.

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