The whole body of cookery dissected, taught, and fully manifested, methodically, artificially, and according to the best tradition of the English, French, Italian, Dutch, &c., or, A sympathie of all varieties in naturall compounds in that mysterie wherein is contained certain bills of fare for the seasons of the year, for feasts and common diets : whereunto is annexed a second part of rare receipts of cookery, with certain useful traditions : with a book of preserving, conserving and candying, after the most exquisite and newest manner ...

BOOK XV.

Contains all manner of Tarts, and made dishes.

How to make a Bacon Tart.

YOU must take some fat clear Bacon that is not rusty, and scrape it with your knife, until you have the quan∣tity of a pound or upwards, throw it into fair water: after its well soakt, drain it out, and put it in a stone morter, and beat it with a wooden pestle; then put to it some Orangado, and dryed Cittern sliced; put to it some Rose water, two handfuls of grated bread, eight eggs, casting away four whites; a pint and half of cream; season it with Sugar, Cinamon, Ginger, Nutmeg, and a little Salt; beat it all together well, and when your cof∣fin, or coffins are made, and a little dryed in an oven, you may put it in and bake it, and serve it up, with a cut, and Wafers on it.

To make an Almond Tart.

TAke about one pound of sweet Almonds, being blancht, and watred for a while, beat them in a stone Morter, with a little Rose water; and when they are well beaten, beat them in again with a little cream, and put on about a quart of cream on the fire, and put them therein; keeping them stirring that it doth not burn to: let them boyl (with three or four sticks of Cinamon, large Mace, and a grain of musk tyed with a thred) until it grows thick, then take it off the fire, and beat in the yolks of about six eggs, with the whites of three; so season it with Sugar, a little Orangado sliced, and Cittern; your coffin or dish being rea∣dy, put it in, and bake it.

To make a Pine apple Tart.

BEat two handfuls of Pine Apples, with a pickled Quince with the palp of two or three Peppins, when they are well beaten, put to them half a pint of cream, a little Rose water, the yolks of half a dozen eggs, with a handfull of Sugar, if it be thick you may add a little more cream to it: so having your thin low coffins for it dryed, fill them up: and bake them: you may garnish them with Orangado, or Lossenges: of Sugar paste, or what else you please.

Another Tart of Pistaches.

YOu must beat your Pistaches Kernels (about the quan∣tity of two handfuls) in a morter, with the quarters of about four Pear-mains, adding to them a preserved Quince, preserving all the Cock treads of your eggs, and eight yolks, with almost a pint of cream, mingle it altoge∣ther well in a morter, with Sugar and Rose water per∣fumed with Amber-grease, and Musk, remember that your quarters of Pear-mains, were first boyled, before mixt with the rest of your Ingredients: it must be filled into thin shallow coffins, about two Inches high, you may either fry or bake them, otherwise you may bake them open: your coffins being dryed, you may stick them over with sliced Pistaches, so scrape on Sugar.

To make a Spring Tart.

YOu may gather the leaves of Primroses, Violets, Straw∣berries, with a little young Spinnage, or all other buds that are not bitter, boyl them in a little milk, then put them forth into a Cullender, and preserve your milk for another use: chop your herbs very small, and boyl them up again in cream: take as many yolks of eggs, with two or three whites, as will make your cream into a thick body, after it is off the fire: if it be not thick enough with your herbs: put in a handfull of grated Naple Bisket, co∣lour it all green with the juice of Spinnage, season it with

Sugar, Rose water, Cinamon, Nutmeg, and a little Salt: you may bake it in a dish, on a sheet of paste cros-barred over, with puff paste, so garnish it with Lossenges.

To make a Cowslip Tart.

YOu must take the blossoms, of at least a Gallon of Cowslips, mince them exceeding small, and beat them in a morter, put to them a handful or two of grated Naple Bisket, about a pint and half of cream, so put them into a skillet, and let them boyl a little on the fire, take them off, and beat in eight eggs with a little cream, if it doth not thicken, lay it on the fire gently untill it doth, but take heed it curdles not, season it with sugar, Rosewater, and a little salt; you may bake it in a dish, or little open Tarts, but your best way is to let your cream be cold before you stir in your eggs.

To make a Cheese Tart.

TAke about three quarters of a pound of old Cheese of Parmyzant, and grate it: put it into a stone morter: with about a dozen eggs: casting away six of the Whites: put therein half a pound of sweet butter melt∣ed, with some Ginger, Cinamon, grated Nutmeg, and Salt: with a penny Manchet grated: season it with Sugar, and Rose water: then beat into it so much Cream, that it may be as thin or thinner, then batter for Fretters, you may make it in a dish on a sheet of paste, otherwise you may dry your Coffins and put it in with your Ladle: and put over it cross bars of puff paste, so bake it, and garnish it.

To make a Prewen Tart.

STew a pound and a half of Prewens, in as much Claret wine as will cover them, and when they are tenderly done, strain them through a bolter or thin strayner, rub them all to pieces with your hands, and pour in some of the liquor they were stewed in to wash the Prewens from the stones; so that which remains in the bolter, or strayner, shall be nothing but the skin or stone thereof; set your dish with the palp of the Prewens, on a Chaffin dish of coals, with a little whole Cinamon, Large Mace, with a little Orangado and Cittern minced season it with Sugar, Rose water, beaten Cinamon and Ginger, let it boyl up un∣till it be thick together: then take out your whole spice; you must make your Coffin about an inch and half high. And set it in corners, in what form you please, either in six, eight, or twelve; when its dryed in an Oven put in your Tart stuff, plaining it all over with a spoon, put it into the Oven, and let it stand a little; when you take it forth, stick it with Sugar, Lossenges, and strow it over with small Bisket red and white, scrape on Sugar.

To make Cheese Cakes.

PUt Runnet to three Gallons of Milk, that it may be a tender Curd; run it through a thin strayner, when its come and gathered, scruise, or press out the Whey, as well as you can possible, put it into a deep dish, or bason, put to it about a pound of sweet butter melted, a matter of fourteen eggs, casting away half the whites, season it with beaten Cinamon, Ginger, Cloves, Mace, Nutmeg, Sugar, sufficient to sweeten it, with a little salt; with Orangado, and Cittern minced, with Rose water, and a handfull of grated bread or Naple Bisket, mix it all well together, if it be to stiff, add a little sweet Cream, let it not be too thin to beat down the sides of your Cakes; then make your paste with the yolks of eggs, melted butter, and warm milk with a handful of fine powdred Sugar; roll out your paste very thin, and jagg out your patterns, by a large round Trencher; and paper them; then put on your sea∣soned

Curds by spoonfulls; and turn up the sides on it in four six or eight Corners, bake them in a quick oven but not too hot, they will ask but a quarter of an hours time baking; you may bake them on sheets of paste in a pattee pans, else in set Coffins.

To make a dish of Puffs.

TAke Cheese Curds, as before, to the value of three pints, mix with them a good handfull of floure dryed in an Oven, put to them six eggs casting by the whites of four, with about a quarter of a pound of butter in little bits, season them with Cinamon, Ginger, and a little Salt; mix them together with your hand very well; then take white paper buttered over, so lay on your curd by spoon∣fuls; bake them in an oven, as before; when they are enough, take them off the papers, put them into a dish; and wash over their upperside with butter, scrape Sugar upon them, and set them into the oven again; and when they are well dryed, put into them Rose water, drawn butter and Sugar; so toss them up together, then dish them up, and put to them the said lear; and scrape Sugar over your dish; you may also make them green; another way; throw a handfull of spinnage into boyling water, that it may be very green, take it up, and wring the water clean out of it, mince it exceeding small; and put it to your curd, seasoned as aforesaid, so bake them and serve them up as before.

To bake a set Custard.

YOu may make your Custard paste of fine floure, and put in the yolks of a few eggs; but let them be well mingled; then make up your paste (with milk almost ready to boyl) let it be very stiff; and mould it very well; then drive forth your pattern; let your border be very thin, raised about three inches high, and when it is footed round cut off your border; (if you make a great custard you may raise two large borders) drive out your bottom very thin; and when it is papered, form your custard upon it, in the best fashion you can; then wet it round with

a feather, between the bottom and foot, and set it; jagg off the Paste round by the foot, and prick your Custard in the bottom; then take a pottle of Cream, and let it heat on the fire; beat a dozen of eggs with a little Cream, and strain it through a strainer, to take forth all the Cock∣treads; then beat it into your Cream, being blood-warm; you may put Raisins, Dates and Currans in the bottoms of your Custards, and put them into the Oven to dry; then season your stuff with Sugar and Rose-water, and stir it to∣gether on the fire, but let it not be but little more then blood-warm; stir it together, and fill your Custard with your ladle: with this stuff you may make Dowcets; this is only to teach them which are ignorant, for every Cook is expert in this, and commonly make their Paste with boyling water and florue: take heed your Oven be not too hot.

To make Tarts of the Jelly of Pippins.

FOr making of your Jelly of Pippins, you must take of your fairest Apples, pared, quartered, and cored, for every pound of them, take three quarters of a pound of fine Sugar, put them into a stew-pan, and almost cover them with clear Spring-water, put to them three or four sticks of Cinamon, cover your pan very close with a lid, set them upon Charcoals, and let them boyl up softly, until they come to a colour; see that your fire be not too fierce, and stir them sometimes that they do not burn; when they are enough, they will look as red as Rubie, and clear as Crystal; then take them off the fire, and put them in a dish; when they are cold, you may fill them into Coffins dryed, like Hearts or Diamonds: and stick them with Orangado and Cittern, and serve them up as a dish, or garnish other rich Tarts or Baked meats with them: you may also put them on thin sheets of rich Paste, and make them little in the manner of Taffatie-Tarts.

To make a Goosberry Tart green, and clear as Crystal.

MAke the Coffins of your Tarts, and put powdered Sugar all over the bottom; then take your fair round Goos∣berries, and fill your Coffins with them, laying them in one by one: put Sugar on the top of them, so lay on another laying, then cover them with Sugar: let your lids be carved at the top, so close your Tarts, and give them a quick baking; so will they be green and clear: In the same manner must you bake Codlins, after you have made them green, by adding to them good store of Sugar, and cutting the lid on the top: By a contrary way, must you bake Cherries, or whatsoever you will have red, as Currans, Raspberries, Strawberries, Pippins or Quinces, &c. you must allow to them Sugar sufficient, as before, but bake them close without cutting the lids, and let them bake so∣berly, giving them soaking enough, and they will be red.

To make Puff Paste.

TAke a pottle of floure, and the whites of six eggs, make it up into a Paste, with cold water, let it not be very stiff: when it is well wrought, roll it forth four square into a sheet, as thick as your finger, then take three pound of Butter, and beat it well with a rolling-pin; then lay it on in slices, all over your Paste, about as thick as your finger, and strow a little floure all over; then roll up your sheet of Paste like a Coller, with the Butter within, scruise and close it at both ends with your rolling-pin; also scruise it all along the roll of Paste, and roll it broad and long wayes, then clap up both ends, and make them meet in the middle, one over another, and fasten it down again with your rolling pin, rolling it forth every way, as thin as it was at the first, when you laid on the butter; then floure your board well underneath, and spread it over with butter, roll it up, and work it, as before: thus do three or four times, until your three pound of Butter be gone: in the Summer you must make this Paste in the morning, with the stiffest Butter you can get, and lay it

in a cold place, until you make use thereof: in the Winter time you must beat your Butter very well, otherwise it will be harder then your Paste, and break holes through it.

To make a laid Tart for preserves.

TAke a sheet of puff-paste, being rolled forth, about an inch thick, and as broad as a large pie plate (or as you please) put it on a large sheet of white paper, and carve it with your pen-knife, in what form or fashion you please, either like four flowerdeluces, or in the fashion of a tree with limbs and branches; then take it on your pastie-peel, and put it in your Oven, not too hot nor too cold, when it is baked, take it forth, and wash it over with a little Butter; scrape on Sugar, and let it drie a little longer in the Oven, dish it upon a dishing plate, and place on your preserves all over the limbs or branches of your Tart, and your suckets and dryed sweet-meats.

To make a Warden or Pear-Pie.

FIrst bake your Wardens, or Pears in an Oven, with a little water and a good quantity of Sugar, let your pot be close covered with a piece of dough: let them not be fully baked by a quarter of an hour; when they are cold, make an high Coffin, and put them in whole, adding to them some Cloves, whole Cinamon, Sugar, with some of the liquor they were baked in, so close it and bake it.

To bake a Quince Pie.

CUt your Quinces from the core, and fill your pie, lay over it sliced Orangado, and pour into it the sirrup of Barberries, Mulberries, Orangado, and put on good store of Sugar, with two or three sticks of Cinamon, so close and prick it, but give it as little vent as you can; you may also bake them whole, after you have cored them with your coring-iron, and pared them very thin; when they are placed in your pie, fill the vacant place where your core was taken out, with the sirrup of Orangado; they ought to have as much Sugar to them as their weight, but not if you have store of sweet sirrup.

To make a Pie with whole Pippins.

YOu must pare and core your Pippins, and when your Coffin is made, take a handful of sliced Quinces, and strow over the bottom thereof; then place in your Pippins, and fill the core-holes with the sirrup of Quinces, and put into every one a piece of Orangado, so pour on the sirrup of Quinces over your Apples, with Sugar, and close it; these pies will ask good soaking, especially the Quince-pie.

A set Tart.

YOu may make your paste rich, put in good store of yolks of eggs, and warm milk, but not too much Butter, and drive out a sheet of paste very thin, let your borders also be driven out in lengths (thin) but so as they will stand; cut out your borders through your sheet an inch and half high; Jagging out one length with your Jagging-iron, and another with your knife; then take the center of your bottom, and set up a tower of about three or four inches high, then set your proportions round about, some Hearts and some Diamonds, so set the outward circumference in what form or figure you please: when you have pricked and dryed it, you may fill it with your sweet meats, Jellies, Leaches, &c. as for example, pour in Chrystal Jelly into an Heart, and also into the opposite, Leach into another, and also into the opposite: so two of each sort one opposite to another, in all your figures.