The English and French cook describing the best and newest ways of ordering and dressing all sorts of flesh, fish and fowl, whether boiled, baked, stewed, roasted, broiled, frigassied, fryed, souc'd, marrinated, or pickled; with their proper sauces and garnishes: together with all manner of the most approved soops and potages used, either in England or France. By T. P. J. P. R. C. N. B. and several other approved cooks of London and Westminster.

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The English and French cook describing the best and newest ways of ordering and dressing all sorts of flesh, fish and fowl, whether boiled, baked, stewed, roasted, broiled, frigassied, fryed, souc'd, marrinated, or pickled; with their proper sauces and garnishes: together with all manner of the most approved soops and potages used, either in England or France. By T. P. J. P. R. C. N. B. and several other approved cooks of London and Westminster.
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London :: printed for Simon Miller at the Star, at the west-end of St. Pauls,
1674.
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Subject terms
Cookery -- England -- Early works to 1800.
Menus -- Early works to 1800.
Cookery, French -- Early works to 1800.
Cookery, English -- Early works to 1800.
Cite this Item
"The English and French cook describing the best and newest ways of ordering and dressing all sorts of flesh, fish and fowl, whether boiled, baked, stewed, roasted, broiled, frigassied, fryed, souc'd, marrinated, or pickled; with their proper sauces and garnishes: together with all manner of the most approved soops and potages used, either in England or France. By T. P. J. P. R. C. N. B. and several other approved cooks of London and Westminster." In the digital collection Early English Books Online 2. https://name.umdl.umich.edu/A53974.0001.001. University of Michigan Library Digital Collections. Accessed May 20, 2024.

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Flesh of all sorts marinated, pickled or souced.

Bullocks Cheek souced.

TAke a fat Bullocks cheek and lay it in Pepper and Salt four days, having first boned and cleans'd it well, then rowl it into an even Coller, then boil it in Wa∣ter and Salt till it be very tender, then tye it up in a hoop as you do Brawn, and lay it into a Vessel with some White wine, stale Beer, Mace, Cloves and Pepper.

Beef how to Coller red.

Take a Flank of Beef, and cut it out four foot in length, and about two in breadth, then mingle a little Cocheneil and Allum together, and put them into a pint of Red wine; after this, season your Beef with Salt-peter, then lay your Beef into a Tray, with your Red wine a whole day and a night, then season your Beef with sweet Herbs, minced Nutmegs, Cloves, Mace and Pepper beaten very small; Col∣ler up your Beef, and bind it about very hard

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with Tape, then boil it leisurely in Pump∣water; when it is cold, lay it in a Vessel, and put to it a pickle made of White wine, strong Broth and Vinegar; cut it when you serve it into slices upon a plate with Vinegar, or at a great Feast divide it into three Col∣lers, and place them in a Dish, stick Bay∣leaves upon them, and garnish the Dish with Flowers and green.

Brawn souced.

Let your Brawn be about three years growth, take out the bones of his sides, having cut off his head close to his ears, then cut four Collers of a side, cut the Collers deeper in the belly than the back, because the belly will shrink in the boiling; having made your Collers equal, not big∣ger in one place than the other, lay them in Water two days and a night, scrape them in warm Water half a dozen seve∣ral times during that space; then having laid them a little while in cold Water, rowl them up in Collers, and tye them up with Tape.

You must boil them with a very quick fire, scum off the fat as it riseth; after an hour let it boil leisurely, when it is ten∣der, draw your fire, and let it stand till

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the next morning, then take them out and bind them in broad hoops, laying them in Oat-meal and Bran boiled in Water, which must be strained through a strainer into the Vessel, where you intend to keep them, adding Salt thereto, and close it up from the air.

Brawn coller'd and souced the best way.

Let not your Brawn be quite so old as the former, then scald it and bone it, making but three Collers thereof, viz. the neek Coller, the sheald Coller, and the Flank Coller; water your Collers two days, each day shift it thrice and scrape it; the last day squeeze out the blood, wash it very clean, and dry it in a cloath; when it is dry, sprinkle on Salt and rowl it up, be∣ginning from the belly, adding some flesh to the flank to make it correspond in thick∣ness with the back, of which you may be supplyed from the Gammon, then bind it up as hard as possibly you may, and put it into your boiling liquor, scum it continu∣ally, and as it ought to boil five hours at least, so supply constantly the wasting of the Water with more; if a Wheat-straw will penetrate it, you may conclude it is enough, then draw your fire, and pour in

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by little and little cold Water, not suffer∣ing it to settle in its own liquor, and it will be of a delicate white colour, then take them up, and set your Collers an end. Let your sauce be small Beer, mixed with Bran and fine Oaten Flowre boiled in Water and Salt strained through a hair-sieve and mingled with your Beer, put your Brawn herein, and stop your Vessel close.

Otherways to souce a young sucking Pig.

Having cut off the head, scald it and cut it down the back, soak the sides well in Wa∣ter, and cleanse it from the blood; then dry the sides, after this season them with Nut∣meg, Ginger and Salt, rowl them and tye them up hard in clean clouts; then lay them into a broad Pan, with as much Water as will cover them, and put thereto a pottle of White wine; when it boils put in your Pig, and not before, with Salt, Ginger, Mace, Parsley and Fennel-roots scraped and pick'd; when they are about half boil'd, put in a pottle more of White wine, when throughly boiled, put in slices of Lemon∣pill.

Calves head souced.

Scald your Calves head, and take away

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the bones, then soak it in Water seven or eight hours, changing the Water twice in that time; having dryed it with a cloth, season it with some Salt and bruised Gar∣lick (if you like it) then rowling it up in∣to a Coller, bind it up very close, and boil it in White wine, Water and Salt, when boiled, keep it in the souce liquor, serve it in the Coller, or slice it with Oyl, Vinegar and Pepper: This dish will puzzle a good Pallate to tell what it is.

Capon souced.

Having procured a young and full bodi∣ed Capon, prepare him as for the spit, then let him soak four hours with a knuckle of Veal well joynted, then set them a boiling in a deep Pan or Pipkin with a gallon of Water, when it boils, scum it, and put in half a dozen blades of Mace, two or three races of Ginger sliced, three Fennel-roots, and as many of Parsly: when your Ca∣pon is boiled, take it up, and put to your souced Broth, a quart of White wine, and boil it to a jelly, then put it into an earthen Pan, or some other Vessel, and lay your Ca∣pon therein, with the slices of three Le∣mons, and cover it close, serve it and garnish it with pieces of Lemon, Bar∣berries,

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Mace, Nutmeg and some of the jelly.

Goats-flesh coller'd and souc'd.

Take the neck or breast of a Goat, and when you have taken out the bones, with a rowling-pin beat it into an equal thick∣ness, so that one part be not thinner than another, then season it with Cloves, Mace, Salt, Pepper, Ginger, all manner of sweet Herbs minced small, and so coller it, bind∣ing it very hard with Tape, add to your Spices, &c. aforesaid, a pint and a half of White wine, and so bake it in a Pot; when it is baked, put in half a pint of White wine more, with some strong Broth; then divide your Coller, and let it lye in the same pickle; you may serve it up in slices or other∣ways.

Geese coller'd and souc'd.

Take a Goose and boneit, then cut the flesh square and soak it twelve hours in a little White wine, Cloves, Mace, Pepper and Salt, then take it up and lay small pieces of Anchovies all over it, with Westphalia Bacon minced small, then rowl it up hard, and boil it in strong Broth, and a little White wine, whole

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Pepper and large Mace, let this be the only pickle; when you serve them, cut them in halves, and garnish the Dish with Westphalia Bacon minced.

Mutton coller'd and souc'd.

Take a breast of Mutton, cut off the neck end and bone it, slice it about the Brisket, soak it very well in water from the blood; it being dryed and spread abroad, season it with an Onion minced, a little Samphire, a few Capers, a pickled Cucumber, and some Tyme also, Pepper, Cloves, Mace, Ginger and Salt, with a few pieces of An∣chovies, over all these sprinkle with a fea∣ther the yolk of an Egg, rowl up your Col∣ler, and boil it in Water and Salt, with a fag∣got of sweet Herbs; when it is tender boil∣ed, take it up and lay it in some of the liquor with White wine put thereto. Thus you may order your Chines, but then you must lard them.

Pig souced.

Split, bone, and soak your Pig in se∣veral waters, then dry it and season it with Sage, Salt, sweet Herbs minced, Pepper, Cloves, Mace, Nutmeg and Ginger, strow these ingredients being well mixed toge∣ther on both sides of your Pig, beginning

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at the tail, coller it up close, and bind it hard, wash it without clean from the Herbs, and boil it in fair Water, scumming it con∣tinually; when it is half boiled, put there∣to a faggot of sweet Herbs, some large Mace, a race or two of Ginger sliced, with half a pint of White wine Vinegar, and a little Izing-glass; take up your Pig, when it is enough, and boil up the liquor to a jel∣ly, take off the bottom and top, and pour the rest upon your Pig into an earthen Pan, having first let it cool and melted it again; when you dish it, cut it into four quarters, with the head in the middle, and an Apple in his mouth, beat your jelly and pour over it, garnish your dish with Flowers and Bay-leaves.

Some souce a sucking Pig after this man∣ner: first scald the Pig, then cut it into four quarters, bone it and let it lye in Water twenty four hours, then rowl it up like Brawn with Sage leaves, and Lard water'd and cut small, grated Bread mix'd with juyce of Orange, season it with Nutmeg, Mace and Salt; having rowl'd it, bind it up hard with Tape, then boil it in Water, White wine, Mace, whole Ginger, a little Lemon-pill, a faggot of sweet Herbs and Salt, boil it very well, and set it in an ear∣then

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Pot to cool in the liquor, and let it souce there two days at least; you may slice it out, or serve it whole with Sugar and Mustard.

Another very good way.

Chine your Pig in two parts, take out all the bones and lay it in water all night, the next day scrape out all the filth from the back, and wipe it very dry, then cast Pep∣per on it, a little large Mace, Ginger, and a Bay-leaf or two in the same manner, as you would order a Coller of Brawn, let your Water boil before you put it in, scum∣ming it continually till it be half boiled, then take out a ladleful or two of the li∣quor, and put it into a Pipkin, and boil with it some Rhenish wine or Claret, sliced Nutmeg, gross Pepper and sliced Ginger; let it stand till it be almost cold, then dish it with Bay-leaves.

Pork coller'd and souc'd.

Take a piece of Pork out of the side, water it all night, and squeeze the blood from it, then season it with a handful of Sage, sweet Marjoram, Tyme, Parsley, all minced very small together, then cut some collops out of a Leg of Veal, hack

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them with your knife, and season them with Salt, Nutmeg, Mace and Pepper, and having first wash'd your Pork on the inside with yolks of Eggs, wash the out∣side of your Veal therewith, and lay it within your Pork; lastly, strow on your re∣maining seasoning, and rowl it up hard, binding it with Tape: when it is boil'd, souce it in some of the same liquor, with a little Vinegar, beaten Pepper and Ginger; when you serve it up, stick your Pork with Bay-leaves or Rosemary and Flowers, gar∣nishing your Dish with Flowers and Sage.

Rams head souced.

Cut the head off, with a good part of the neck adjoyning to it, and boil it with the skin on a good while; when it is throughly boiled, (which will require a considerable time) take it up and pluck off the skin, then take Broth you have boil∣ed some fresh meat in, and boil it over a∣gain, with Vinegar, Salt, a good handful of sweet Herbs, Ginger, Pepper, a good piece of Horse-raddish root scraped, and a quar∣ter of a pound of French-barley; being boiled, strain them through a bag, and souce the head in it; you may serve it

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up either in slices, or whole with the horns on.

Sides of Lamb souced.

Bone your fide of Lamb, soak it and squeeze it well from the blood, wipe it dry, and season the inside with beaten Nut∣meg, Ginger, some sweet Herbs minced small, whole Coriander-seed, minced Le∣mon-pill and Salt; lastly, some slices of broad Lard over all: then rowl it up in a Coller, and tye it up in a clean cloth, put it into your liquor when it boils, and scum it very well, and then put in sliced Ginger, sliced Nutmeg, Salt, Fennel and Parsley roots,; being almost boiled, put in a quart of White wine, when it is enough take it off, and put in slices of Lemon, with the Pill of two whole Lemons; boil it close covered to make the Veal look white.

Thus you may order a breast of Veal, or any joynt of Mutton, Kid, Fawn or Venison.

Swan coller'd.

Bone your Swan, and part the two sides, season it according to the foregoing dire∣ctions in the soucing of Geese, season it

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with Pepper and Sage minced, and dip∣ping them into yolks of Eggs, lay them on the two sides of your Swan, so rowl them up into Collers; let the pickle be the same as was shown you before for the Geese; boil the head to set upon your Col∣lers in the middle of the dish.

Venison coller'd.

Take a Hanch or Side of Venison, and cut it into pieces fit to make three Collers; first lard your pieces, and then season them with Pepper, Cloves, Mace, Nutmeg, and as much Salt as will convert your Spices into a grayish colour, then rowl up your Collers, and put them into an earthen Pot, and bake them with Butter, covering your Pot with course paste; having stood five or six hours in the Oven, draw it and let it cool, then take out your Venison, and pour away the gravy, and make your Pot clean, then lay in the bottom thereof some clarified Butter, lay in upon it your Venison, and fill it up with clarified But∣ter: Thus you may keep Venison a whole year.

Veal a breast souced.

Take out the bones of your breast of

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Veal, and lay it in Water till you have purg'd it from its blood; having dryed it, take all manner of sweet Herbs, Nutmeg and Cinamon beaten, Ginger beaten grosly, Callendar pared, Lemon cut in pieces, mingle these together, then spread your Veal, and strow on the inside thereof these materials afore recited; then rowl it up like a Coller of Brawn, and bind it close; when your liquor boils, put in your Veal and scum it well, then put in a faggot of sweet Herbs, and keep it covered, for that will make it look white, when it is almost boiled, put in some sliced Nutmeg, large Mace, a little Ginger and a Lemon or two sliced.

Or thus:

Take a breast of Veal, bone it, cleanse it from the blood, and season it as afore∣said, then take thin flices of fat Bacon, and season them with Sage and Pepper, dip∣ping them into the yolks of Eggs, and lay these all over the inside of your Veal, then rowl it up, beginning at the neck, and ha∣ving tyed it fast, boil it with the bones, and a faggot of sweet Herbs, scumming it till it is boiled, then put it into your soucing-Pan with the same Broth, adding some

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Vinegar and Salt thereto, with some large Mace.

Veal a leg souced.

First take a Leg of Veal and bone it, then take great Lard and season it with Pepper, Cloves and Mace, and lard your Leg there with, season the Veal with the same sea∣soning, adding some Salt thereto; lay your Veal abroad, being beaten flat and even, and strow thereon all manner of sweet Herbs minced small, and strowed on it, rowl it up as before, and boil it in a Pipkin with Water, White wine and Salt, pickle it in the liquor it was boil'd in: you may serve it up whole or in slices.

Wigeons souced and coller'd.

Take the same method in ordering your Wigeons, as you did before in the Swans, only add thereto a couple of Onions be∣fore you rowl them up into Collers; and by this rule you may do any Fowl accord∣ing to their nature when they are in season.

A general Jelly for any kind of souced meats.

Take three or four pair of Calves feet, scald them and cleanse them very well,

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taking away the fat betwixt the claws, and also the long shank bones, lay them a soaking in water five hours, and boil them in two Gallons of Water till it is consumed to three quarts; being boiled, strain it through a Strainer; when the broth is cold, take it from the grounds, and divide it into three parts for three several colours, putting each part into a several Pipkin with a quart of White wine, let one be colour'd with Cocheneil, the second with Saffron, and let the last have its own complexon, let each Pipkin have some Cinamon, a race of Ginger, and a little Mace, with some Nut∣meg, slicing each particular Spice, melt your Jelly, and put into every Pipkin a pound or somewhat more of Sugar, and with it the yolks of half a dozen Eggs beaten very well, stir these well together, and when it is ready to boil, take it off and strain it through bags, so keep it for your use.

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