Travels and voyages into Africa, Asia, and America, the East and West-Indies, Syria, Jerusalem, and the Holy-land performed by Mr. John Mocquet ... : divided into six books, and enriched with sculptures / translated from the French by Nathaniel Pullen, Gent.

THE TRAVELS AND VOYAGES OF John Mocquet, INTO SPAIN. Being design'd to travel to other Places, and the Causes which made him desist there from.

BOOK VI.

BEING returned from Syria, and the Holy-Land, with quan∣tity of curious Plants, and o∣ther rare things, which by my dili∣gent Search in several Places I had procured to present to the King, and

Queen-Regent, I failed not, so soon as I came to Paris, to go do my Re∣verence to Their Majesties, who were very glad to see my Rarities, and com∣manded that a fit Place should be given me in their Palace of the Thuilleries, * 1.1 there to frame a Cabinet of all sorts of Rarities, and other curious things which I had gathered together in all my Travels throughout the World. But after having so well begun what I had at that time in hand, I judged that to pursue it according to my De∣sire, it would be necessary for me to undertake some more Voyages, and I had no less design than to encompass the whole World, first by way of the Occident, and from thence by the O∣rient to return again into our Occi∣dent; an Enterprize, I must confess, so great, that the only Presumption of so much as ever having it in my Mind, I believe would have gained me Glory enough; and yet I hoped, that by the Grace of him who had al∣ways conducted me every where, I should have been able to have brought it to pass. But I was defeated of these my Purposes by the Occasions following.

With this Intention then I left Pa∣ris, and followed Their Majesties to Tours, in the Voyage which they made there in the Year 1614. in July. From thence I embarked upon the Ri∣ver Loir, to go to Nantes, and to St. Leiger, to wait for occasion and conveniency to pass to Portugal, from whence I was to pursue my Designs. But having put out to Sea, the Wind turned so contrary, that we were for∣ced to draw back to St. Leiger, tho' not without a deal of Trouble; and there hearing that the King was at Nants, I took the Occasion to go there to furnish my self with some Pass∣ports which I had forgotten, and which I judged needful for my Voy∣age.

This being done, I returned to St. Leger, but I found that the Vessel in my absence had set sail, having a right Wind; and which was worse, had also carried away all my Provi∣sions which I provided for the Passage, with some other things, which I never could hear of since. This was a great Hindrance to me, and also an unlucky Presage for my grand Design. Yet it hindred

me not from embarking as well as I * 1.2 could in another Ship of Aulonne which was going to Andalusia: The Ship was called the Florisand, and the Master Franchois Micha••d. We first of all put in at Aulonne, then with a right Wind we set out Seven or Eight in Consort, for so many Ships we were in all, bearing to wards Spain; and having continued some time upon the Sea, and given chase to some Cruisers, we arrived in the Cape of St. Vincent; and taking Cognizance of the Cape, we ran along by the shore near the Port des Algerves, where some of our Ships anchored to Traffick, and the rest bore to San Lu∣car de Baramede, where our Ship was bound, being laden with Cloth.

Being arrived in this Place, I began to think of some way how to transport my self to Sevilia, to get Knowledge as well in Physick, and the Art of A∣pothecaries, (of which the Practise is something different from ours,) as al∣so to find means to pass to the East-Indies, and accomplish the Voyage which I had proposed to my self; * 1.3 which was to go streight to Mexico,

and from thence to embark for the Coast of the South-Sea, and so to fol∣low the Coast of the East-Indies, a∣long by China, Camboja, Siam, Mala∣ca, Peru, Bengall, Coromandel, Mala∣bar, Goa, Diu, Ormus, and from thence to return by Land through Persia, and Babylon, to Aleppo, and from thence by Sea repair to France, my own native Country; thus to accom∣plish so great a Voyage, and by the Example of those famous Heroes, Magallan, Drake, Cavendish, and Oli∣ver Van d••r Nort, to encompass the whole Universe. But God had other∣ways disposed thereof, and for my own Good; his Pleasure being always Just, for his own Glory and our Sal∣vation.

Parting then from San Lucar, fol∣lowing the Mareme, along by the great River Guadalquivir, I came to Seville, * 1.4 and immediately placed my self in the Shop of the most famous Apothe∣cary of the whole City, in the Street called di los Francos: The Master was named Alonso Rodrigo, a Portuguese, with whom I continued for some time, both to learn the Language, of which

I had already some Knowledge, and to have also some Knowledge of Drugs, of which this Man made the greatest Traffick: For he had Two or Three great Magazines in his House, and as much or more in other Places of the City, where his Children put off the Drugs.

After having tarried some time with him, I left him, for the great Desire I had to find an Occasion to embark; but I was still detained by another, named Juan Sancha, who had also dwelt with this Rodrigo, and was Apothecary to the Army, and the Frontier Cities in Africa, for the King of Spain: He was to have a Shop at Marmorre, a Place which the Spaniards had newly taken in Barbary, and la∣boured mightily to perfect this Shop which he was to send to this Fortress. I tarried then to help him, and conti∣nued there from the 3d. of November to the 8th. of January, until his Shop was finished. From thence I went to walk in the Fields to take the fresh Air, because of the great Filth of this City of Seville, which causes there

a very bad Air, which is pursued by a great Number of Diseases.

As I was traversing on Foot some Mountains, to observe the Nature of Trees, I met with an honest Cavalier, named Pedro Sancha, as I knew since, who courteously invited me to come and lodge at his House in a little City called Corea, or Coria, not far from thence, which I could not well refuse. He entertained me very kindly, and I stayed there till the next Day; then I reassumed my way to the Mountains, where I was for some Days taking no∣tice of the Plants, and found store of Rosemary, and a great quantity of Mastick-Trees, with which the Coun∣try is mighty abounding; amongst o∣thers, I gathered some Thistles called Chameleonis-Ally, some Flowers of Nar∣cissus, and some Mandrake-Apples, which they call S••bollas de Villana: After that, when I saw that I had but bad Entertainment in these Desarts, where most commonly I found no∣thing but Water, and some Raisins to eat, and sometimes a little Bread, in the Shepherd's Cabins, I returned towards Corea, and visited my honest

Host, the Sieur Pedro Sanche, who was very glad to see me, and made very much of me. He afterwards came to see me at Seville, to have the Interpretation of some Receipts which had been given him for his Wife who was with Child.

From thence I returned to Seville, where the Sieur Juan Sanche, the A∣pothecary, would have perswaded me to tarry with him; but I had my Voyage of the Indies so in my Head, that I had no mind to tarry there, but took my way streight to St. Luear, and sailed along the River, with a great many other Persons for Company in a Boat.

We arrived in the Night-time at St. Lucar, and I went to lodge with my former Host, who was called Ba∣stanuil Biscain. I continued there for some Days to wait for an Occasion to embark: But my bad Fortune would have it so, that the Vessels which were then in the Port, durst not ven∣ture out, because they had Advice, that from Argier, and other Places of Barbary, were put out to Sea near Fifty Vessels, who guarded the Coasts,

and were separated 10, 15, and 20 Ships, towards each Height and Cape, where they thought they were to pass; so that they took all they could meet with.

Seeing my self thus retained, and without much Commodities to live by, having already spent the most part of what I had, I was constrained, in expectation of better Conveniency, to place my self with an Apothecary of St. Lucar, who made me promise to serve him for some time. But as Fortune never left Persecuting of me, so this poor Man returning one Night from Supper in the City, was arrested Prisoner by the Command of the Duke of Medina Sidonia; and after that, the Justice came to his House and seized up∣on all his Papers, where the Alg••aziles, or Sergeants made a strange Ravage. They accused him for having made some Libel against the Duke. I spent this Night with no small Trouble and Uneasiness.

The next Day I went again into the Fields to go towards the Port St. Mary, where I made so much hast, after having passed many Places by

Water, and bad way, that I arrived there at Night in Company of a Re∣ligious Jacobin, who shewed me a great deal of Courtesie, and caused me to lodge with him in the House of a Muleteer. The Day following, I took the way of Xerez de la Frontera, and had no small Trouble before I could come there, for the great Abun∣dance of Waters which I found by the way. At last, having escaped them as well as I could, and being ve∣ry weak in regard of the great Hun∣ger I endured, by good Fortune I met with two Men in sight of Xerez, who courteously invited me to eat with them; and being sate down to eat, they fell to discoursing of several Things, and amongst others, came upon my Subject, speaking of Hun∣ger, and that it is the most easie to be supported, when one stirs not from a Place without doing any thing, or when one is at Work, and thinks of doing some other thing: At last one of them concluded, that he was sen∣sible of more Hunger when he was doing nothing, than when he was at work, and found that there was some

reason for it, in regard that Action diverts the Thoughts: And I remem∣bred that I heard reported, how that the several sorts of Plays, as Cards, Dice, Tables, and others, were at first invented to amuse Men during a great Scarcity of Victuals, and by this means to divert them from thinking upon their Hunger. And therefore 'tis said, That Drake, that samous English Captain, returning home from his great Voyage about the World, (which he had encompassed,) one Day, as he found himself in great necessity of Victuals, and saw his Men ready to starve with Hunger, he caused them to play to divert themselves; and when they were thirsty, he advi∣sed them to sleep to refresh themselves. This Scarcity was so great, as I have heard some English say, That they were forced to eat some Blacks which they had brought along with them, and having found near England a Ves∣sel loaded with Victuals, they eat so much thereof, that the most part of them died by over charging them∣selves.

But to return to Xerez: Being arri∣ved * 1.5 there, tho' not without abundance of trouble, passing through the Ci∣ty▪ I by chance found my self near the Shop of an Apothecary, where there was some Surgions discoursing together. When they saw me, they cast out some Words of Mocking, be∣cause of my Garb, à la Francois: But I returning towards them, told them a few Words of Chirurgery in Latin; which they being ignorant of they knew not what to answer, except by naming to me, to surprize me, a cer∣tain Composition called Hieralogod••i; but I asked them, if they knew not whether it was Hierapachii? which is one and the same thing; at which they were put to a Nonplus. And thus I left them there, and kept on my way, and by good Fortune met in this City with a French Man, a Britan, who lived with a Cavalier, and took me along with him, where he made as much of me as he could. There I found a Persian Slave, who hearing me speak of his Country, and the East-Indies, was so overjoy'd, that he called me his Kinsman, and made

me as good Chear as he could in this House, where he had much Credit.

This City of Zerez is situated on high in a very pleasant Country, as all the rest of the Province of Anda∣lousia, and is not far from the little River Ovadal••t, famous for the great Battel fought there, where Roderick the last King of Spain lost his Life, with all his Nobility, at which time the Moors render'd themselves Masters of all Spain. The Soil is very fertile in Corn, Wines, Oil, and all sorts of Fruit, and produces also those excel∣lent Horses call'd Gennets.

When I was there, I was told how that the Judge of that Place, whom the King of Spain had established there, not having a mind to do a piece of Injustice, as the Gentlemen and Hidalgo's of the City desired him, they had invited him to a Supper, with an Intention to put an Affront upon him; but he doubting of their Ill-will, would not go to them: At which they being vexed, made his Image, and burnt it in a Fire before his own Door in a Bravado; and in the mean

time, he not daring to stir out of his House, which was as it were besieged by them. Upon which, his Wife went strait to Court, to make her Complaint to the King, and to de∣mand Justice of him, which was granted her: For the King of Spain commanded these insolent Hidalgo's, or Gentlemen, to come before him, and ordered their Process to be drawn immediately, and condemned them every one to have their Heads chopp'd off. But when they said for Excuse, that they were drunk when they put this Affront upon the Judge, they were pardon'd, and had his Grace, except Two Brothers, who never would confess themselves to be drunk when they play'd this Prank, and were so glorious, that they chose ra∣ther to have their Heads cut off, than to confess the same, as the rest had done. And hereupon came the Pro∣verb, That Los Hidalgos di Xerez Son Borrachos, The Gentlemen of Xerez are Drunkards.

After having tarried some Days at Xerez, I returned to the Port St. Mary, expecting to find an occa∣sion for my Embarkment: But be∣ing there, I could not by my utmost Endeavour, procure License to pass to the Indies, in regard of the rigorous Injunction not to suffer any Strangers to go to the Indies, but especially the French; yet if I had had Money to give, perhaps I might have had this Permission; but I had not so much as a Maravedis, nor Hopes to meet with any there, besides that I found my self somewhat indispos'd. All this, with the bad Entertainment which I receiv'd amongst these People so Un∣charitable and Discourteous, gave me cause to desire my Return, and thought to embark my self in some Aulonno•••• Ships, to return with them to France; and indeed I gathered together some rare Plants, which I put into a Vessel, with some other things, of which I never since could hear any notice, but that they had cast all into the Sea. In the mean time I wondred why this Ship did not set sail, but she was hin∣dred

by the Decrease of the Moon; for the Sea does so follow the course of this changing Planet, that it is ta∣ken notice, that the Ebbing and Flow∣ing is in the heighth, when the Moon is in Conjunction.

This Ship of Aulonne which I wait∣ed for, was called the Gift of God, and belonged to one Peter Bled: In the mean time the Vessel departed without taking me in, and I remain'd there in no small trouble and misery; and had no other Recourse, but to put my self into a Boat which I found go∣ing to Calix, not far from thence; and nevertheless we had no small Trouble in our Passage, because of the contrary Winds. We at last went on shoar in a desart Place, about a League from Calix, to which Place I went on foot along by the shore: I there found Acquaintance, but I could not stay there long, because the City was filled with Soldiers belonging to the Army of Dom Lous de Fajardo, Admiral of the Spanish Fleet, who was just returned from Mamorre, which he had taken from the Moors, and

had there found a great Number of Pyrates, of whom some he had hang∣ed, and put the rest to the Oar; the rest were partly sunk, and some burnt themselves in despair, rather than thoy would yield.

This Ci••y of Calix, or Cadis, was * 1.6 the Gades so famous in ancient times, * 1.7 where 'tis said that H••rcules, after ha∣ving overcome the Gerions, planted his memorable Pillars, as being the end and utmost Bounds of Naviga∣tion at that time; but since, in these last Ages, the P••rtugals and Spaniards have happily found the Plus Ʋltra, which has given them Passage at their Pleasure through all the Orient and Occident. These Gad tan••an Pillars were upon the Two Mountains Aby∣la and Calpe, placed upon the Extre∣mities of the Straights, one in Afri∣ca, and the other in Europe side, now Ceuta and Algezira; or else the true * 1.8 Pillars compos'd of Tin, Gold, and * 1.9 Silver mixed together, which were by Hercules put into the Temple of the Parques, and afterwards in the Tem∣ple * 1.10 dedicated to him in the City of

Gades. This Straight has since been called Gibraltar, or Gabel-Tarif, which signifi••s Mount of Tarif, in Memory of that Renowned Captain who commanded in Chief in the Sa∣raz••n War, which began the Con∣quest of Spain.

The City of Gades in ancient times was not very Populous, and is at this Day a little City, celebrated for the Salt-pits, and Almadraves, or the Fi∣shing for the Tonny. This was for∣merly an Isle distant above 700 Paces from the main Land; but at present there is only a little Causey which se∣parates it therefrom.

Seeing then that I could not conve∣niently tarry at Calix, I went into the Fields towards an old ruined Tow∣er, which they call the Tower of Her∣cules, not far distant from the Straights. I found there some rare Plants, which I loaded my self withal, and saw this Tower, into which I entred, though not without a great deal of trouble, because the Sea beats against it; and besides, there came such a furious Wave, that I thought it would have

carried me away. This Building is so well wrought, and appears so en∣tire, that it seems not to have been 20 Years since it was built. Now, as I was amongst these Ruines, I saw a great Wolf approach towards me, which I thought at first to be an Ass; but after having known what it was, I kept my self still, and let it pass a∣long by me, without stirring a Foot, for I saw that it was looking for Food. Not far from these Ruines I found a Temple, where I enter'd, and it look∣ed like an Azoy, or Mosque, after the Turkish manner; yet there is an Altar set up, where sometimes they say Mass.

As I was returning towards Calix, I found the Sea mightily risen, so that I was a little wet in repassing the same; and had I stayed but a little longer, I had had a bad Nights Lodg∣ing there: At last I passed over, and found in my way a good old Man, who discoursed a great while with me about all these Antiquities; and how that in those Days there was more Men morally Good than now, though they 〈2 pages missing〉〈2 pages missing〉

and from thence I came to a Place na∣med Chipione, where having gotten some Money by certain Cures, I re∣turned to San Lucar, and from thence to Sevillia, where I was forced to con∣tinue for some time and joined my self with a certain Apothecary, who lived in the Triane, or on the other side of the Bridge. This Triane is a Suburb on the other side the River of Qu••l∣quiver, which hath a Castle, where is the Inquisition, or Holy-Office, as they call it. This Apothecary made Pro∣fession of Christianity, but was held for a Jew, as he made it appear to me; for he treated me but scurvily, not∣withstanding the Service that I did him in his Alquitarres, or Limb••cks. I endured a great deal of Hardship with him, and became extream sick with a Vom••••ing, and a Bloody-flux, so that I thought I should have died, and had no small trouble to recover my self; never receiving Help from this Jew, or any of his.

Whilst I was there, I remember that they of the Parish of St. Ann, or the Suburb of Triane, made a Pro∣cession on Palm-Sunday in the Even∣ing,

carrying all lighted Wax-Candles, and sung a Hymn in Honour of the Blessed Virgin, to shew that she was conceived without Original Sin; to which they applied the Words of the Royal Psalmist, Coeli enarrant gloriam Dei; & in sole posuit tabernaculum su∣um, &c. and other such-like things. And hereupon the whole City of Se∣ville was in an Uproar, and there were some Priests themselves put into the Inquisition, because they had the Bold∣ness to maintain, that the Virgin was conceiv'd in Sin; insomuch that there was likely to be a great Tumult; and my Jew was then in such fear, that he durst scarcely stir out of his House, though he was of this same Parish. There was some, who either out of Fear, or Devotion, wore, writ upon their Hatbands in great Letters, these Words, Sin pecado Original voto a tal: to shew that they believed, or would have others believe. At the same time they caused to be out before the great Church in Seville, upon a Mar∣ble-Table, in golden Letters, Concebi∣d•• sin pecado Original.

Leaving then my Apothecary, still sick as I was, having found some Friends who lent me Money, I returned towards San Lucar, in Hopes to find Means to embark my self, not for the Indies, (of which I had lost all Hopes,) but to return into France: But as my bad Fortune would have it, not far from San Lucar I was Robbed in the Pinars; and coming to San Lucar, I soon found out who it was that had robbed me, but I du••st scarce speak thereof for fear of worse; besides there, as in other Places, Justice is ve∣ry difficult to be had without Money. At last, having found an Opportunity to go for France, we parted, (Ten * 1.11 Ships we were in Consort, and held our course far out in the Sea, for fear of the Ships of Tunis: The Ship wherein I was, was of Incuse in Hol∣land, and the Captain was named Jan Taye.

Now one Day, when it was a great Calm, this Captain invited on board his Ship the Admiral, and Vice-Admi∣ral, with other Captains, who had treated him before: And after having made good Cheer together, and drunk

plentifully of these Spanish Wines, they withdrew themselves each one on board his own Ship. In the mean time the Wind began to rise, and we were forced to change the Sails; but all the Mariners, and the Pilot him∣self, were so drunk, that they knew not what they did: When he who was at the Helm commanded to set to the Larboard, they hal'd to the Starboard, having the Wind in their Faces; one cried this way, another that way, it being the greatest Confusion in the World, not one understanding what another said. When I saw that, I took the Helm my self, and brought the Ship fairly before the Wind; then came a French Mariner, who was just come out of Captivity from Barbary, and had not drank so much as the rest. I quitted the Bar to him, because I was bid to beware of the Captain, who was in a great Rage against me: Nevertheless that hindred me not from going to find him out upon the Deck, where he was still emptying some Bot∣tles of Wine with his Mariners. As soon as he saw me, he began to mut∣ter something to himself; whereupon

I took up a Cup and drank to him, which pacified him a little, and told me that he was very angry with me; and having asked him the Cause, he shewed me his Arm, scarce being a∣ble to speak, meaning to tell me that I had never a Lancet to let Blood. Hereupon I doubted that a wicked Norman had told him of that; for in parting from San Lucar I had told him how I had been Robb'd, yet I had made Provision of Medicines to cure the Sick when there should be occa∣sion; and I had cured the Captain's own Brother of a certain Pain that he had in his Legs, which was no small Help to me; for ever since that time he was always my Friend against those who had a mind to do me any wrong, and especially this Norman, who made it his chief Business to ex∣asperate these People against me, to the end that they might do me Mis∣chief; but God preserved me from them. The next Day they took a poor Boy, a Fleming, who was a Pas∣senger, and tied him fast to the great Sail-yard, to duck him into the Sea, because, as they said, he had been

drunk, and had spoiled the Deck: He was thus hoised up Three times by the Sail-yard, and so duck'd in the Sea, after the Captain had first drank to him, which he pledged. 'Twas a great Pity to hear the Cries and Com∣plaints of this poor Boy, and I was not able to behold a Spectacle so cruel, but withdrew my self below Deck, where in the mean time I heard them murmuring against me, at the Inspi∣ration of this Norman, who had been Captain of a Ship in the New-found Lands, and was now a Passenger in this Vessel, having more store of Crowns than Good-nature.

After having sailed thus for some time, we arrived happily, by the Grace of God, at the Havre, the 15th. Day * 1.12 of August, 1615. and from thence I went straight to Paris, which was the Term of all my Voyages, and of this last Peregrination, which was more troublesome and incommodious than long. But God be praised for all, to whom I render infinite Thanks that it hath pleased his Divine Goodness to preserve me from my Infancy to this time, from so many several Misfortunes

and Difficulties which I have met withal: For I was but at my Mother's Breasts in the Year 1576. when my Fa∣ther was Imprisoned at Meaux for being Surety for a Debt, which he was obliged to pay; and whilst he had Permission to provide accordingly, it behoved my Mother to supply his Place in the Pri∣son with me; and thus began I be∣times to resent the Miseries of the World, which since in greater Age •• have experienc'd more fully, and more roughly, in regard of my almost-conti∣nual Absence from my native Country, in strange Lands, and remote Places, devoid of all Comfort, and exposed to all sorts of Miseries that could befall any Man; and moreover, since my Re∣turn into mine own native Country, I have not been exempted from the like Misfortunes and Calamities, having had but very little Support from Men, as∣sisted only by the Providence of my God, who hath never forsaken me, but hath caused the Afflictions which he hath pleased to send me, to be an Ob∣ject to several Persons of Honour to exercise towards me their Good and Laudable Charities.

Notes

• * 1.1

  Cabinet in the Thuil∣leries.
• * 1.2

  〈◊〉〈◊〉 in∣to Spain.
• * 1.3

  Design of the Great Voyage.
• * 1.4

  Seville.
• * 1.5

  Xerez.
• * 1.6

  Calix.
• * 1.7

  Gadis.
• * 1.8

  Ceuta.
• * 1.9

  Algezira.
• * 1.10

  Parques.
• * 1.11

  Return in∣to France.
• * 1.12

  Arrival at Paris.