Travels and voyages into Africa, Asia, and America, the East and West-Indies, Syria, Jerusalem, and the Holy-land performed by Mr. John Mocquet ... : divided into six books, and enriched with sculptures / translated from the French by Nathaniel Pullen, Gent.

THE TRAVELS AND VOYAGES OF John Mocquet, INTO Syria, and the Holy Land.

BOOK V.

HAving return'd to Paris from so many long and troublesome Voyages after the Death of King Henry the Great, whom I can never sufficiently lament, and all other good French Men, I had a desire to make a Religious Voyage into the Ho∣ly Land, there to go pay (like a good Christian) so many Vows I had made to God for the innumerable Perils and Dangers, from which it hath pleased him, mercifully to preserve me so of∣ten.

In this Resolution I parted from Paris the 19th. of July, 1611. and took Coach to Marseilles, where I ar∣rived the 14th. Day of August, and tarried there for some Days to wait for passage, which at last I found in a Ship of Toulon, called the St. Francis, belonging to Ode Bergue, and Vander Strate, Merchants of Toulon, and Marseilles: There embarking, the 8th. of September, we set sail, and the 12th. saw the Isle of Sardania, which we left on the North-East; and the 15th. we saw the Coast of Barbary, passing near the Isle of Guerite, which is a little Island not far from the main Land, where the Robbers and Pyrates lurk, as well Turks as Christians; we had this Isle towards the South-West.

The 17th. we passed along by Mal∣ta, then by Sicilia, where we found a Ship in the fashion of a Galiot, who came directly towards us to know if they durst engage us; but when they had perceived our Strength, they tacked about, taking their course to∣wards Barbary, seeking other Prey more easie to surprize.

The 21st. we passed along by Can∣dia, where there is a little Island cal∣led Agose, which advances into the Sea with a Point towards the South: Then the 27th. we went to the Isle of Cyprus, towards the City of Bafe, not far from the Coast, and went to pass the Cape de Gate, designing to go to Famagusta: But having a sharp Gale, and good for our Voyage, we continued our course, bearing to∣wards Tripoly in Syria, where we ar∣riv'd the last Day of September; the next Morning, the 1s••. of October, I went on shore to lodge in the City, in a Campo near the Juderie, or Jews-Place: These Campo's are great Hou∣ses, with large Courts and Fountains, where Strangers retire themselves for shelter, like Inns. These belong to some great Person, who letts them out; and he who is the Porter there∣of, whom they call Boabe, receives the Money of the Passengers, and gives it to the Master, of whom he holds it upon Rent.

Having tarried some time at Tripoly, I had a mind to see Mount Lebanon; and for this effect took a Turk, with

an Ass to carry our Victuals: We left the City the 11th. of November, and went over very high Mountains, and troublesome to pass, and in the end arrived at the Lodging of a Chaldean Archbishop, called Father George, who received us after the best manner he could. His House is right above Mount Lebanon; his Church is under his Habitation, and a Water-mill un∣derneath his Church. I saw a good Father, a Chaldean Priest, and Kins∣man to this Archbishop, who came from grinding his Corn, as he shewed us by his Visage all white with Meal; and seeing him in this case, we knew him not to be of the Church, until the next Morning, which was Sun∣day, when I saw him go with the Host in his Hand from thence to a Village, there to sing Mass. The Father George lived there with his Mother, Sisters, and Nieces, making one and the same Family altogether. He shewed me a Chapel above his House, upon a little Rock, right under Mount Lebanon, and told methere was there a Hole, out of which every Year, upon the 1st. Day of May only, gushes an abundance of

Water, at such time as they sing Mass in the Chapel. The Mountain is co∣vered all over with Cyprus-Trees. The Place is very agreeable; but the Winter is there very troublesome, be∣cause of the excessive Cold, and great Snows, which mightily afflicts these good Fathers, so that they are con∣strained for that cause to pass the Win∣ter near Tripoly, and return there a∣gain in the Spring.

The next Morning after we had heard Mass, we set forward towards the Place where the Cedars are, about Three Leagues from thence; where being come, we had such a cold blast of Wind, that my Turk blew his Fingers: I order'd him to get upon a Cedar-Tree to break me off some Branches, but he tarried there not long; for the Cold soon made him to descend, that he could not get me so much as I desir'd. But I feared he would tumble down, being half fro∣zen; and besides, he had not eaten his Breakfast, because of their Roma∣dan, in the which they fast till Even∣ing, not daring to eat any thing upon pain of Death, except it be in private,

and those who observe not strictly their Law; and when I saw him tremble in good earnest, I presently made him come down, fearing to lose him.

From thence we reassumed our way to return to Canibi, which is a Place belonging to the Chaldean Patriarch, and had very bad Weather of Rain; so that we arrived there late in the E∣vening, after having passed many little Habitations, situate for the most part upon the side of inaccessible Rocks, and are almost all Chaldean, and Greek Christians, with some few Moors amongst them. We were there very well received, and drank excellent Wine, which grows in these Mountains.

The next Day having heard Mass, we returned to Tripoli, where I pas∣sed a very troublesome Winter, be∣cause of the great Inundations of Water which came from the Moun∣tains, and so swelled a little River which runs through the middle of the City, that it bore down part of the Houses, with great loss of Merchan∣dise, and Water-mills, which it car∣ried

quite away, with the Stone-bridge. This was the cause that Bread was there very scarce and dear, that we had much adoe to get a little black Biscuit, half spoiled, which was sold me by weight, and at what rate they pleased, and that by halves; and the People already began to cry out for Famine. The House of the Consul of France fell upon him, and killed him: Several other Houses fell also by this disaster of Inundation, which came in a Night without so much as dreaming of.

The City of Tripoly is situated in a Valley below Mount Lebanon, and has still an old Castle with square Towers, built formerly by the French, the then Lords of the Holy-Land: There is at present a Garrison of Turks. The City may be as big as Pontoise, and there is but a small River that pas∣ses that way, which is very subject to break out of its Banks when the Snows of the Mountain melt, and then does a thousand Mischiefs, as I have seen when I happened to be there: All the rest of the time one may pass almost dry upon the Stones. The City is

very well built; the Houses low, ex∣cept those of the Great Ones; and there inhabits a great Number of Gre∣cian Christians, Jews, some French, and Italians. Those of Marseilles trade mightily there.

There is also a Bassa, or Governour, who, in the Summer, goes with his Nobility to lie in Tents in the Mea∣dows betwixt the Port and the City, and there exercise themselves at the Launce, and Sword. This City is a∣bout Nine Days Journey from Aleppo.

The Spring being come, I began to think of going to Jerusalem; and for this purpose, parting the 9th. of A∣pril, 1612. with a Mouquary, or Turk∣ish Carrier, we took our way towards Damascus, and the first Night lay in a little Meadow by a River-side, where we endured no small cold, because of the Winds which come from these Mountains laden with Snow. The next Day we raised our little Caravan, which consisted of Turks and Jews, and a Greek Christian and his Sister: This young Grecian Girl was not a∣bove Twelve Years of Age, and was very vertuous and brisk, being mounted

upon her little Ass, which was led by her Brother. We passed many Mountains, and arrived at a Habita∣tion of Arabians, where we had but very bad Lodging, lying along the Walls of the Houses which are in ve∣ry dirty Places: I made my Pillow of a Stone.

The next Day we went to Dine at Armel, a little City of the Arabians, and then retired into a House of Plea∣sure very stately and magnificent, but there was none in it; it serves only for a retiring Place, and Lodging for the Caravans, they giving so much to the Porter who is the Keeper thereof: This House is furnish'd a la Moresque, and strong enough to hold out an As∣sault. A certain Turk who returned from the Bassa of Tripoly caused it to be built after this manner: The Bassa commanded him to be taken and brought into his presence, telling him, That being his Subject he was greater than he, in regard of the sumptuous and strong House which he had caused to be built, that he might rebel against him; and thereupon com∣manded his Head to be chopp'd off in

recompence of several good and nota∣ble Services he had done him.

Parting from this Place, we went along by a Rivolet to lodge upon a little Hill within the enclosure of cer∣tain Walls very low, where there was a small Cottage of the Arabians: We lay along the Wall, and passed the Night with great fear of the thievish Arabs. We parted from thence be∣times in the Morning, and came to Bailbec, a very ancient City, where formerly lived Christians, the Ruines of a Church remaining there yet. I went into the City with my Mouquary, which was the Turk, that furnished me with a Horse to ride upon, and there we sought for a little Wine, but privately, it being forbid to sell any: We found some White, very good, at the House of a Grecian, who earnest∣ly desired us to hide it. They failed not to come to search our Cloaths, and other things, but they could not find it, for we had locked it fast up. We lay without the City along the Walls which are made of great Stones, not of Masons Work, but roughly set one upon another, each one above

12 or 15 Foot long. The Bassa of this Place went out about Noon with all his Cavalry and Infantry, going to some Place, not far from thence, upon a Quarrel which he had against the Bassa of Damascus. He marched in excellent good order, especially for Turks and Arabians to observe.

We dislodged from this Place two or three Hours before Day, passing by Rocks, of which the most part were broke and thrown down, and the Veins and Pipes bigger than ones Arm are still to be seen, through which flowed the Water before they were broke down: There is amongst others one of these Rocks slit in two, about 3 or 4 Leagues from Damascus; and the River of Jordan, which comes from Mount Lebanus, passes with great swiftness very near it, there is a Bridge over which we passed: Along by this River are places cut like Caves within the Rock, where lived formerly cer∣tain Hermits; and truly the Place is very proper for a solitary Life, being exceeding desert, and of difficult ac∣cess. We went to lie in a certain Ha∣bitation, and the next Day we arrived

at Damascus, which was on Palm-Sunday Eve, the 14th. of April. I went to take a Lodging in the House of one Ibrahim, a Rabbi of the Jews, to whom I had been recommended by a Cousin of his, which I had known at Tripoly. He received us after the best manner he could; but we supped but badly, because it was the Day of their Sabbath, in which they dare scarce touch any thing. The next Day I so ordered the Business with this Jew, my Host, that he gave me one of his Servants to conduct me, and help me to buy an Ass. They were at that time making Preparations for their Passover, and I saw them buy Sheep in a Market for that purpose, and this Servant chose the fattest for his Master; so that I had much adoe to hale him to the place where I knew there was an Ass to be sold, which had been brought from Tripoly with us: I bargained for it for 19 Pataques and a half one, for the Jew: I ex∣changed my Money, taking for Spa∣nish Money, Pieces of Albouquelque, to give to the Cafars, and gained 55 for 50; for the Cafars go for as much

as those of Spain. Albouquelques are pieces of German Money, having the mark of a Lyon; the Turks take it for a Dog, and therefore call them Albou∣quelques or Dog-pieces. I desired al∣so my Jew to find me out a Turk, which he did, and promised him a Patache a Day, but he was to find himself with Victuals.

As for this City of Damascus, it is very fine and pleasant, having most delicate Gardens, and is seated in a Valley, as it were in the middle of a Meadow; and there is a Lake and a River which pass cross it, with many excellent Fountains: Amongst others is to be seen that of St. Paul near to a Mosque.

This City is divided into two, by a great Church-yard of some 400 Paces, after the Moorish manner: The whole City may be as big as Orleance. It is of great Trade; and amongst others, there is a great Street, where there is nothing but Merchandice of Drugs and Spices. This City is encompas∣sed with Walls, but not round about, and has a very strong Castle, and great number of Gardens in the adja∣cent

Parts. There is a Bassa, or Go∣vernour, and a multitude of Greek Christians there, but no French. It is about Three Days Journey from the Sea, and Five from Jerusalem: For∣merly it was the greatest Commerce of the Indies, Persia, Chaldea, Arme∣nia, and other Places.

We left Damascus the 16th. of April, and went to Sassa, where was a Cafar, or Toll: But my Turk, to save me from paying any thing, and thinking to have the half of that which belong∣ed to the Cafar, put upon my Tur∣bant, which was of the Greek Colour, another of white after the Turkish manner, and passed thus without be∣ing taken notice of by the Cafars, or else they were asleep in their Houses; for we saw none coming toward us as we passed over the Bridge which is there: So that we escaped, and went from thence through a very bad way full of great Stones, where I endured no small pain, scarce being able to draw my self out from amongst them, because of the Water and Mire which are together; and this bad way con∣tinued almost the whole Day. But as

we were a good way in these Boggs and Quagmires, we saw coming to∣wards us a Turkish Cavalier, with a Harquebuse at his Saddle-bow, and passing near to me, he demanded, An ta Frangi? if I was a Christian; and having answered him, Yes, he return∣ed in a Fury towards my Turk, who was before me, and held his Sword at his Throat to kill him, had not a poor Arabian, who was at work hard by, run to his succour, praying this Cava∣lier to be pacified; and from thence he came to give me a Blow with his Sword, but I gat my self out of his way, and he spurring his Horse upon me, cryed Rou, which is to say, Re∣turn; but my Turk so ordered the Matter, that he was content to take a Piece of Money, and the Arabian al∣so mightily desired him. After that, my Turk took away my white Tur∣bant, shewing him that I had one of the right Colour underneath, and that this which he had given me was to keep me from the Sun. This, with the Money, contented him, and pre∣served us from the Danger of being soundly beaten, and also of returning

back to Sassa, where the Cafars and Sub-Bassa's would not have pardon∣ed us. I then threw away his white Cap, contenting my self with my own, not having a mind ever to rely any more upon what he told me. We were in continual fear lest these Cafars should come after us, upon the Infor∣mation of this Cavalier, but they did not; yet my Turk was under such a mortal Apprehension that they would, that he turned about ever and anon, and pricked on the Ass as much as he could. We went to lie at Conetra in a Campo, where we payed a Ca∣far.

The Chelubin, which is to say the Lord of the Place, who understood a little of the Gemique Tongue, (which is corrupted Italian,) spake for me to the Cafars, that they might use me kindly, and take no more of me than he ordered them. He came with o∣ther Cavaliers of his Company to dis∣course with me where I was with my Ass in a Court; and having perceived my Kit or Gittern amongst my things, he desired me mightily to play upon it, which I willingly did, and pre∣sented

him with a curious great Pom∣granate, which had been given me by one of the Bassa's of Damascus's Gen∣tlemen. He was very well content therewith, and thought himself well payed for the Kindness he had done me with the Cafars. These Cafars are the Farmers and Toll-gatherers of the Turk, and are always Three to∣gether; one for the Grand Signior, another for the Soldiers of the Coun∣try, and the third for the Soubachin, or Governor of the Place. I lay there in a Stable of Mules and Camels, up∣on a little Grass which I had bought, having no better Lodging that Night than my Ass.

We parted from thence about three Hours before Day, and found the Company which was going after the Chec-Marabou, who parted from Da∣mascus two Days before us, whom we overtook along by the Sea Tiberiades. This Chec-Marabou goes out every Year from Damascus, to go in Devo∣tion to Salomon's Temple in Jerusa∣lem, and those who go with him, (which are they of the Country,) pay nothing; they are sometimes 5

or 6000. I was very glad to find this Company, for fear that my Turk should play me some Roguish Trick, though the Jew, Ibrahim, had made him put his Hand upon mine, promi∣sing, upon the Law of Mah••met, to guard and protect me as himself, and to bring me back again to Damascus, or at least a Letter from me to this Jew: But yet I trusted not so much to that, as to make me neglect being upon my guard, knowing well the Humour of this cu••sed and unfaithful Race of People, who will kill a Man for a small matter, and especially the Christians, whom they greatly hate, and serve them only for their own Profit, of wh••ch they are as greedy as Hell can make 'em.

We passed then a great Number of Woods, and at length came to Jacob's-B••idge, where there was a Cafar, through which passes a very swift Ri∣ver, which is that of Jordan, and which runs from thence into the Sea Tiberi∣ades, not far distant from thence. These Cafars were Arabs; and my Turk think∣ing not to pay so much, to save some∣thing for himself, endeavour'd to per∣swade

them that I was a Jew, and that I was going to Zaphet where their Sy∣nagogue is; but these Arabs, who were very cunning and subtle, saw by my Looks that I was not like a Jew; and an old Man, all scorch'd and burnt with the Sun, asked me, Hady Frangi? which is as much as to say, if I was a Christian? My Turk, and another of our Company, earnestly entreated them not to take much of me, and that I was a poor miserable Wretch, and made me pass before with the o∣thers, they tarrying there to pay; but for all that, they payed much more, (or at least made me believe so) than I had done: But it behoved me to pass that way whether I would or not. When you have passed the Bridge, you see in this River a little Island, where there is an ancient Building, which they say to be Jacob's House.

From thence we passed through Deserts, where was a great Number of Tents of the Arabs on each side, and began to mend our pace for the great Fear we were in, without resting or refreshing our selves at all; and I was very angry with my Turk, who would

not give me time to eat a bit of Bread, being very weak, having set out a little after Midnight, and made so much way; and besides, our evil For∣tune was not to find the least drop of Water to drink. When we had pas∣sed all these Habitations of Arabs, we went to pitch along by a Rock, where it was exceeding hot, and there seeking for Water we found some, though very little, which was Rain∣water kept there a long time. We had a mind to taste of it; but it was so bitter and stinking, that it was im∣possible to swallow the least drop thereof, tho' I formerly had drank that which had been very bad, and fancied that the Lizards, Serpents, and other venomous Creatures, which are there in abundance, had come to drink, and to plunge themselves there∣in. Our Turks, though they are ex∣ceeding dry, and are rustical and rough in their manner of living, could not drink the least drop thereof. By good Fortune I had still a Pomegranate or two left, of which I gave to every one a little bit to refresh their Mouths, not daring to eat any thereof before

them, without giving them some, tho' I had very great need of it my self: But it behoved me so to do, if I had a mind to live quietly; my endeavour being to humour them as long as I was with them.

Thus passed we this troublesome Way as far as the Cistern of Joseph, where we drank some of the Water, which is very good and fresh, and fil∣led also our Teronques therewith. This Cistern is a little Place raised up, where there is a Building, in which live certain Arabs: It is covered with a Cupolo, sustained with Four Pillars of White Marble; but at present there is but Three entire, the other be∣ing broken.

Having drank enough, we went on our way; but these Arabs striving to force us to give them something for this Water, my Turk ran to hinder them from taking my Bread which I had brought from Damascus, where I was furnished with Provision for seve∣ral Days; but at last it behoved us to give them something: And thus esca∣ped we from their Hands, passing a∣long by the Valley of the Five Loaves,

where our Lord wrought that famous Miracle: From thence we came to the Sea of Tiberias, the 18th. of April, and found the Chec-Marabou, who was going to Jerusalem to the Temple of Salomon, accompanied with 4 or 5000 Persons of all sorts. The Place where we were, was then called Lameny; there we pitched our Baggage hard by a Bush, and in the mean time I went to bathe in this Sea, to ease and refresh my self a little: I found the Water thereof very sweet and still, and ex∣cellent good to drink, having a very soft Sand at the bottom. The River of Jordan passes with a very swift course just through the middle, with∣out mixing it self therewith, and from thence runs into the dead Sea near Je∣rusalem, from whence it is plainly to be seen from Mount Olivet; for it is in a Valley, having the Land of Arabia very high, and Desart on the other side, as I saw from Mount Olivet.

This Place of Lameny hath Cafars, but I met with none of them: I there saw all these Marabouts Santons, who dance before the Chec's Tent; and it is a fine sight to see them perform their

Ceremonies and Follies, ranging them∣selves all into a Ring, as in a Dance, then clapping their Hands, and cry∣ing Nila Nilala; then bowing, and heaving themselves up with a great force: There was a San••o•• that led them by Signs of his Hands, Gestures, and Motions, like a Master of Musick, and who was in the mid∣dle of the Dance, following with his Face towards them. It would be im∣possible to represent all the great Fol∣lies and silly Tricks which they shew in these Dances; for there are some of them, who going out of the Dance, cast themselves all along upon the Ground; then two of these Santon-Marabouts take him, one by the Head, and the other by the Feet, and stretch him out as far as they can; after that, this Man pretends himself dead, and makes as tho' he had great Convul∣sions and Tremblings, shaking him∣self mightily two or three times, then seems as if he gave up the Ghost; the Marabouts seeing that he neither stirs nor takes his Breath, look upon him as a dead Man; he who is at the Head, takes his Right Hand, and puts it up∣on

his Face, then does as much to his Left, and after that, puts them upon his Belly; he who is at the Feet plucks him very hard, and the other holding him by the Head raises him upon his Feet; whereupon presently this dead Man reviving, runs to dan∣cing with the others: They employ themselves thus 4 or 5 at a time, one after another, going to this fine Sport.

As I was beholding these Fooleries, there was a Mo••••ish Woman hard by me, who seeing all this, entred into such a Fransie, that she fell to shaking and crying out like the rest, so that they had much adoe to quiet her, ma∣king as if she had been ravished into an Ex••asie.

The Evening being come, they all fall to their Sala or Prayers, and light a great Number of Lamps before the Tent of the Chec-Marabou, who is the Captain of the other Santons and Ma∣rabous, placing before his Tent all the Standards, where there is writ in A∣rabick Letters something of the Law of Mahomet: Afterwards in the Morn∣ing, when the Caravan comes to de∣camp, all these Santons take every one,

one of these Ensigns, and go singing be∣fore the Chec, who is encompass'd a∣bout with these Standards; then he mounts upon a fine Horse, with some other Cavaliers that accompany him, and march thus in great Ceremony before the Caravan.

As we thus parted from Lameny, my Turk took me out of the way of the Chec, telling me, That in the way where the Chec was to pass there was abundance of Water, which my Ass could not pass over: He thus deceived me on purpose, to make me pay the Cafars, with whom I believe he par∣ticipated. We went over Mountains very high, and almost inaccessible, with no small trouble; and there was also some Turkish Men and Women with us, who had taken this way as the best.

At Night we arrived at Eonjar, which is a place some two Musquet-shot from Mount Tabor: We thought the Chec would have come there also, but he came not that Day; which those of the Campo seeing, they cau∣sed us to enter into the Court for fear of the Arabs; and there I accommoda∣ted

my self in the middle, with my Ass close by me. There was some Greeks who invited me to sup with them, giving me some Rice and parch'd Beans. After Supper, as I was going to sleep hard by my Bag∣gage in the Court, a Janisary, who came along with us that Day, with 3 or 4 Turkish Women, sent for me, (he being under a Vault, with a great Number of Arabs,) and invited me to eat some Almonds and Raisins with him; and besides that, spoke for me to the Cafars, so ordering the Business with them, that I should pay nothing, telling them that I came in Company of the Chec, where all was frank and free: But I was since shewed the contrary at Nabelous.

We parted from that Place before Day with Three or Four Turkish Mer∣chants (the Janisary staying there to attend the Coming of the Chec) and came to Gigny, passing on Foot over Mount Th••bor, which is very high, and elevated, covered with Trees like Oaks, bearing Acorns, with Leaves which prick like Holly-Oak. This Mountain is above a League high,

and the Circuit of it is near Three, the top whereof is plain, and had formerly some sort of Building and Dwelling-place for Hermits, but all is ruined; the Country round about is nothing else but Woods.

Gigny is a little City; where being come, we went to put our selves into the Court of the Castle during the great Heat of the Sun; and being there, a great many Arabian Cafars came armed with Bows, Arrows, Darts, and Harquebuzes, who en∣compassed me about like ravenous Wolves, crying out Alcafar ard Dre∣hen, Give us Money. I excused my self after the best manner I could, that I might not give them all which they demanded; but the Master Cafar, with∣out saying a Word to me, at my first Re∣fusal, gave me such a Blow upon the Shoulders, that he broke his Staff, and presently sent for another as big as his Arm, with which he treated me so cruelly, that I was forced to give them as much as they would have. My wicked Turk all this while was gotten far enough from me, and cau∣sed this Tragedy to be acted, having

for that purpose led me out of the way of the Chec, that he might the more easily rob me: When he was returned, I gave him Money, telling him that he might go his ways where he would, and that I would have no more to do with such a wicked Man in my Company: But he told me that he was obliged to bring me safe to Je∣rusalem, and to bring News from me back to Damascus, if I returned not with him: Finally, I was forced to bear with this Tyrant, who was ne∣ver content with what I gave him, and besides denied what I had given him at Damascus for Advance, and that which I gave him also at Gigny, thinking to have it over again.

We departed thus from Gigny the 22d. of April, and came to Caranouby, a Place of the Arabians, in the Coun∣try; and there the Arabs came from all Parts to see me, being on Horse∣back, with Launces in the manner of Pikes, for that is their ordinary Arms: They endeavoured to rob us; but some of them were pursued by those of the Caravan, who cast Darts, Stones and Clubs at them, and the Arabs rode

away like Lightning through the middle of the Fields. There was one of them taken, who was led before the Chec, who caused him to be soundly Bastinado'd for his Theft.

Now my Turk who sought nothing more than to ease me of my Money, stirred up two Arabians to demand Al∣cafar of me, or Tribute. I was not a little surprized at that, seeing my self in the open Fields, where there was not any appearance of a Cafar; however, I told them that I owed them nothing in that Place: But my Turk, who had brought them, urged me very hard to pay it, that he might have his Share thereof, yet I would not give them any thing; and seeing my self near the Tent of a Turkish Gentleman, I took the more Heart, knowing very well that he would not suffer me to be abused; so these Arabs were forced to go their ways as they came. But my Traytor, the Turk, bore me a Spite, and acted the same in a very base manner; for the next Day parting from Caranouby, and passing through the City of Herodes, where St. John was beheaded, and

where still a great Number of Marble-Pillars are standing, and Olive-Trees very old, we came to Nabelous, a great City, which is said to be Samaria. The Chec went to pitch his Tent in a great Enclosure, a quarter of a League be∣low the City; and then my Turk put∣ting me close by an Olive-Tree, with my Baggage, and my Ass, went straight away to give the Cafars notice: I was a good way from the Tents, and this Villain had separated me from the Company of Three Turks that were Brothers, very civil Men, where I was left alone amongst the poor Arabs who followed us to Jerusalem. As I was thus under the Olive-Tree, eating of that little which I had; for I could find nothing, save a little Paste fryed in Oil, two Arabian Cafars came to me, and without a Word speaking, one takes me by the Throat, dragging me along, and the other belaboured me with a Cudgel behind, making me go by force, pretending to lead me be∣fore the Soubachin at Nabelous. I could do nothing else in this Extremity, but call God to my Succour, and He for∣sook me not: For at that Instant, a

very honest Turkish Gentleman seeing me thus basely used by these cruel Rascals, came out of his Tent, and took me by force ••ut of their Hands, demanding of them what they would have for their Right? they asked Se∣ven Sequins; which was a vast Summ out of the little Money I had remain∣ing. At last this Turk so perswaded them in my Behalf, that they were contented with Six Pataques, which are worth about a Crown apiece, which he caus'd one of his Servants to carry for 'em. But afterwards one of these Cafars returned again, de∣manding of me half a Pataque more, and that by the same means I should go thank the Chec, the which it beho∣ved me to do, by the Counsel of this Turkish Gentleman; and this Cafar gave me a little Paper, wherein was imprinted the Grand Signior's Mark. Behold the Treatment which I had at Nabelous, where the Christians are ex∣treamly tyrannized over.

A little below this Place is a very fine Fountain, adorned with Marble and Stone; they say it is Jac••b's Well, or that of the Samaritan Woman. In

the Evening my Turk came to me a∣gain, pretending ignorance of what had happened: But it behoved me to endure that also, and overlook it as my best way. The Chec continued two or three Days at Nabelous touch∣ing the Sick; for they present these sick People to him, and he stretches out their Arms and Legs: then for his Pains he has Money given him, which his Secretary receives, giving little Tickets like Countercharms, and Notes for it.

We had there great Rains, which we were forced to endure Day and and Night very patiently, without having any thing to shelter us: But seeing it continued without ceasing, I placed my self with these Three Turkish Brethren, not trusting my self any longer with my Turk, and fol∣lowed them into the City, with my little Baggage, not knowing then where this my gallant Mouquary was. We took up our Quarters in an old Vault full of Spiders: This Vault is so ancient, that they say 'tis above Three Thousand Years since it was made. In this Place lodge the Ca∣mels,

and the Caravans, which go and come. I tarried thus in this dark Hall amongst the Mules and Asses, not having my self so much as a Wisp of Straw to lie upon, and being so crowded that I could not lie down, but was forced to remain close by my Ass, who was very impatient; for I cou'd get him nothing to eat.

Having there passed this bad Wea∣ther, the next Day my Turk came to seek me out, pretending himself to be mighty busie in looking for me; but he was a Drunkard, and minded nothing else but drinking of Shirbet, which was sold in the Tents, from which he never stirred all the Day long, nor the very Night, and would fain have perswaded me also to go there to drink of this Liquor, which they swallow down hot: It's of a very unsavoury Tast, and blackish Colour; the Syrians call it Cody. In Tripoly are a great many Vaults like Taverns, where they most commonly go to drink this Shirbet, which is made of Seed and Water boiled to∣gether.

Leaving this Place, we went to pitch our Tents two or three Leagues from Jerusalem, in a Place where for∣merly was a Chapel, which is half ruined, and there is a pleasant Foun∣tain hard by upon the way.

The 27th. of April, 1612. we ar∣rived at Jerusalem, and were there first: Not far from the City I met with the Soubachy, or Governour, who came out with a great Number of Cavaliers, and all in good order, going to meet the Chec-Marabou. This Soubachy ask'd me if I was a Chri∣stian; and having answered, Yes, he commanded my Turk to take me to the Gate of Jafe, and to leave me there at the Gate until he had fetched me a Trucher-Man, which was a Greek, belonging to the Cadi or Judge. My Turk failed not to do what the other had commanded him, and made me tarry at the Gate of Jafe, where I was a long time waiting for the Trucher-Men, and an Officer of the Cadi, to visit my Baggage. They being come, caused me to enter into the City, and led me where the Re∣ligious dwell, where they view'd my

things, leaving me with these good Men, whom I saluted. After Dinner, they gave me a Greek Trucher-Man to accompany me to Bethlehem, whi∣ther I went, passing by the Fish-pond of Bersabee, and drank at a Foun∣tain which is upon the Bridge: From thence we went to the Turpentine-Tree, where the Blessed Virgin repo∣sed her self, going from Bethlehem; then to the Cistern, or Well, where the Star appeared to the Three Kings going to Worship our Lord; my Trucher-Man made me to drink of the Water which is very good: Not far from that Place we saw Jacob's Tower, which is almost quite ruined; after that, the Place where the Pro∣phet Ely slept, upon a Rock along by the Highway; they shewed me still the Mark of his Body in the Rock: From thence we went to see the Field of the Shepherds, and near to that, the Five Cisterns which David caused to be made; there are Three of them open, and the other Two stopped up; they are all round in a Ring, some Three or Four Foot one from the o∣ther, about a little Stone's-cast from

the Highway: We there found some Grecian Women, and Maids, who were drawing Water, which my Trucher-Man caused me also to drink of, being very excellent. When we came to Bethlehem, we went into the Monastery, which is a Place very a∣greeable; and then the Father Guar∣dian, a good and devout Religious Old Man, put on his Ornaments, and gave me a lighted Wax-Tapor, shew∣ing me all the Holy Places, and a∣mongst others, the Place where our Lord was born; then the Place where the Three Kings worshipped, and and that where St. Jerome was buried, and other Places: But should I give an Account of all, I wou'd never have done; I therefore remit my Read∣er to the more particular Descriptions which have been made of these Pla∣ces.

After having visited this Holy Place, on Saturday Morning the 28th. of April, and heard Mass, which was said upon the Manger, and bought some Beads which the Greeks make there, I went to see the Grotto where the Virgin fled, when Herod slew the

Innocents. As I was coming out of this Place, I met some Greek Women, who came to desire me to give some Remedy to their sick Chil∣dren, because they had heard that I was a Haquin, or Surgion. I instru∣cted them, according to my small Ca∣pacity, and as that Place would per∣mit. Round about the City of Beth∣lehem are Vineyards: It is now no∣thing but a lttle Village, full of old Ruines; and not far from thence is a Monastery, the Ruines of the City of Bethuly, where there is no Habita∣tion.

As for the Place of the Manger, it is at this Day nothing but an old strong Vault, sustained with little Pillars of Marble to keep it from fal∣ling: The Vault is gilt with counter∣feit Gold; they descend by ten or a dozen Steps: In the Place of the Man∣ger is a great Marble-Stone.

After that, I reassumed my way to Jerusalem; where being come, it be∣hoved me to sell my Ass to maintain me, as well at the entrance of the Holy Sepulchre, where I was to give 14 Sequins, which are about Twenty

Crowns; as also to give my Turk, who so insulted over me, that I could scarce find Money enough to content him: He brought one of the Citiers, or Serjeants of the Cadi, to have me be∣fore his Master. When I had payed him by the Hands of my Trucher-Man, yet he almost deny'd that I had given him any thing, and would have done it, had not this Trucher-Man been with me to witness that I had payed him; and he was then conten∣ted: yet he alledged, that he had bought me an Ass, not having Money enough to pay for him, as if it beho∣ved me to pay it, as if I had been obli∣ged thereto, and that I had not given him enough for the Courtesie, which he would shew to be as much as the Principal which I had agreed with him for a Month. In the end, seeing my self so pestered with this Man, who threatened to have me before the Ca∣di, or Judge of Jerusalem, I was for∣ced to pluck a Ring from my Finger, and give it him in the presence of the Trucher-Man. But I saw him no more, since I gave him a Letter to the Jew, Abraham Rabbi, to shew him

that he had put me safe and found in Jerusalem, as he had promised.

The Saturday following, in the E∣vening, some Pilgrims that were there, and I, went to the Holy Sepulchre to do our Devotions; the Governour of the City having sent the Keys upon Request that was made to him, being there were lately Pilgrims arrived; and in entring the Church they cried to me Hada, which is to say, that I came the last; for the others had been there already to do their Devotions some Days before, and were minded to return there again upon this occa∣sion: Being there, we went all in Pro∣cession; and the Father Bucher, a Cordelier, made a Sermon, shewing us every Place where our Saviour had suffered any Pain; as the Place where is the Pillar to which he was tyed and scourged: Then we went to the Holy Grave, where he lay and was buried; this is like a little Cupolo, having within, a great Number of lighted Lamps, and an Altar where they say Mass, which is upon the Sepulchre it self: From thence we went to Mount Calvary, and saw the Hole

where the Cross was fasten'd, which is garnished on the inside with Silver; the Rock hard by, is slit to the bottom; there are some Signs of a Chapel be∣low. After having heard there a short Sermon, we went to the Place where our Saviour was set, having the Crown of Thorns upon his Head; then where he was put Prisoner to wait for his Death and Passion, where he was a∣nointed, which is a Stone of Marble as big as a ••omb, compassed with Bars of Iron; and in short, all the Holy Places of Devotion which are within the Enclosure of the Holy Se∣pulchre. After that, at Break-of-Day, I heard Mass in this Place of the Ho∣ly Sepulchre, Confessing my self, and Communicating as devoutly as I could, in a Place so Holy and Venerable, and that with so much Contentment and Satisfaction, that I don't believe I ever received the like; rendering infinite Thanks to my God, for ha∣ving preserved me from so many Pe∣rils and Dangers, and for having brought me into this Holy Place, here to do the Duties of a good Christian and Catholick.

Having thus finished my Devoti∣ons, I returned back to the Monastery, and after Dinner taking one of the Religious, with one named Grand Fils, a Parisian, who was also there: We went to the Street which is ca••led Do∣lorous through which our Lord pas∣sed, bearing his Cross; we there saw the Place from whence Veronica threw the Linnen from her Door upon our Lord's Face; then where Pilate said Ecce Homo; and the Places where St. Paul was put into Prison, where St. Stephen was Stoned, where the Virgin Mary was Buried; the Sepul∣chres of Joseph, and St. Anne; the Place or Mount of Olives, where our Saviour ascended into Heaven, leaving the Prints of his Feet in the Rock, but at present there is nothing left but the print of his Left Foot; the Turks ha∣ving transported the Right into Solo∣mon's Temple, as I was there told: Then the Place where our Lord wept over Jerusalem; the Place where Ju∣das hang'd himself, where Lazarus was raised from the Dead, where the Three Maries went to seek our Lord, to desire him to come to see their Bro∣ther;

and the Stone is still to be seen which our Lord sate upon: Then the Castle of Eniaus, where he made the Feast, where he healed the Blind, where St. Peter wept for his Fault: Then the Sepulchre of Absolon, which is cut in the Rock like a Tower, ha∣ving upon it a Head of a wonderful bigness, and there is a Window on the side towards the Valley of Jehosaphat, through which they say the Children still cast Stones as they pass by, out of disdain that Absolon had made War upon his Father: Then the Place where our Lord fell into the Torrent of Cedron, the Marks of his Arms and Hands still remaining upon the Rock: Then where he was Interro∣gated u••der the Golden Gate; where he was put in Prison, in the House of Ann, upon Mount Sion; the Olive-Tree to which he was tyed, which is still green, and raised from the Ground round about; the Greeks hold this Place: Then the Stone of the Sepul∣chre, the Place where St. James was Beheaded, where Abraham would have sacrificed his Son Isaac, which the Ae∣thiopians keep, and which is near to

the Sepulchre. In short, all the o∣ther Holy Places which are in Jerusa∣lem, and thereabouts, as they were shewed us by these Religious who conducted us.

Now for the City of Jerusalem, as it is at this Day mightily diminished, from what it formerly was, it may be about as big as Blois, and is situated upon a Heighth amongst Mountains, not having any thing of plane but to∣ward the side Jafa: 'Tis encompas∣sed about with good Walls, built not so much in compass as was the an∣cient City, which was very great, as the Circuit and Ruines do still shew: They have left Mount Sion out, to take in that of Calvary. All the City is full of Ruines, and ancient Vaults, and inhabited by People of all Nations and Religions, as Jews, Greeks, Latins, Moors, Turks. The Governour of the City is called the Soubachin, who de∣pends upon the Bassa of Damascus The Temple of Solomon is built very great and high, covered with Lead, and gilded; and all round about is built Places like Chapels: It is built with Freestone. This Place serves

them for a Mosque, where the Turks will not suffer either the Christians, or Jews, to enter. The Country round about, as all the rest of the Holy Land, is incultivated and desart, full of old Buildings, and Ruines, and is very stony. In short, it throughly feels all over, and in every Place, the grievous Curse of Almighty God, for the Iniquities of the People whom he so loved, for whose sake he render'd this Country the most Agreeable and Fruitful in the whole World. This may serve for an Example to us Chri∣stians at this Day, who do so badly observe his Holy Law, to which, by his Grace, he has called us in the room of those whom he has cast off, for their Disobedience and Ingratitude. When I had satisfied my curious De∣votion in all this, I came back to the Monastery, and the next Day I pre∣pared for my Return, taking a Mule of the Atelas, and a Guide and Tru∣cherman of the Christians, who was a Greek, to whom I gave Seven Se∣quins.

I then left Jerusalem on a Monday, and passed through the Valley of Te∣rebinte, where David overcame Go∣liah. In this Place we found a great Number of Cafars, but the Atelas spake for me to them, and so freed me from that Penalty.

From thence we passed by the House of Jeremiah, from which runs a pleasant Fountain, which Passengers drink of: Then we came to Ramah, a little City, where we lodged at the French Consul's House, and the next Morning went to Jafa, tarrying there all that Day, waiting for the next Morning; we lay under an old Vault along by the Sea-side. This was a great City, and a good Port, but now all in Ruines, and there is but Three Towers to be seen entire, and some little Houses: There is here nothing to be found either to eat or drink, and you must bring your Provision if you have a mind to eat. The Morn∣ing being come, the Atelas giving order for our embarking, and having given us a Greek, with a great Boat like a Patache, we parted from thence

the 1st. Day of May, and came to the City of Caesarea, which is quite ru∣ined, and went to cast Anchor near Caiphas, in a Place where was for∣merly a Monastery. We went on shore to look for some fresh Water, and were refreshed by bathing our selves: There was with us a Turkish Chiaux, and a Janisary.

The next Morning leaving this Place, we went and cast Anchor a lit∣tle below Mount Carmel, where Elias made his Abode; then passing along by St. John of Acre, formerly P••ole∣medes, a very pleasant City, upon the Sea-side, and where dwelt formerly the Knights of Malta; then we anchored before the City of Tyre, where some of us went on shore for Victuals, and to see the Place where, they say, Samp∣son threw down the Temple upon the Philistines: This Place is all desart and ruined, and there is a great Num∣ber of Marble Pillars, and amongst others, one of a wonderful length and breadth, very smooth, and almost Seven Fathoms about, and seems as if there were Three in one, 'tis broke at one end: They say it is that which

Sampson cast down, but that is false; for the Scripture tells us, that this was at Gaza, another City far from Tyre; so that these Pillars must be of some other ancient Building. We took some Refreshments in the House of a Greek, who makes Brandy under an old Vault. At Evening we returned to our Petache, designing to set sail af∣ter Midnight. As for the rest, this City of Tyre, or Sur, is quite ruined, inhabited only by some Moors, and Greek Christians, which live there in Vaults under the Ground. There is to be seen a great Number of Marble Pillars which keep up the Walls, be∣ing placed and layed cross one upon another, to hinder the Sea from un∣dermining the Walls. This City was once of a vast Extent, but at present is like a Desart.

Parting from this Place before Day, we cast Anchor at Sydon, or Sayette, where we saw upon a little Hill the House of the Canaanite, hard by the Sea-side. We went on shore for some Refreshments, and dined in the Ware-House of the Christians, with the Con∣sul of that Place, who told me that

some Days before came there a Ship of Malta, who had a Protection from M. Joseph Facardin, Governor of Sy∣don, and that this Vessel returning in∣to the Sea to look for some Prize, had met with a Turkish Caramousin, whom she took, and boarded her with some Knights and Soldiers, who leaving their Admiral some Leagues from thence, came to Sydon to take in some Refreshments, and by chance the Bro∣ther of him who had lost the Ship was there at that time; who, when he saw his Brother's Ship, he cried out to the Moors of the City, How was it possi∣ble that they would suffer those Dogs, the Christian Robbers, (for so they call us,) to come thus within their very Port, after having taken their Goods. Whereupon those of the Ci∣ty immediately ran to Arms, and leap∣ing into Boats, fell upon this Cara∣mousin, and fought them on all sides: They within defended themselves va∣liantly, as long as their Powder lasted, but the most part of them being killed or wounded, the rest were forced to yield, and be carried into the City, where they had their Heads chopped

off, being 16 in all. A few Days af∣terwards the Admiral sent his Boat to Sydon, to enquire after his Men; but there was Seven or Eight of them ar∣rested and made Prisoners while I was there. The Consul told me more∣over, That M. Joseph Facardin had promised him to let them escape in the Night-time, without the Know∣ledge of the People who were exaspe∣rated against them.

This Emir Joseph, commonly cal∣led the Ermine of Sydon, or Emir de Say∣ede, is very courteous and kind to the Christians, and is said to be de∣scended from those ancient Kings of Jerusalem, who were of the Blood of the Princes of France; and this is he who is said to be since come into Tus∣cany to the great Duke, with an In∣tention to become Christian, and to propose Means to the Christian Prin∣ces how to chase the Turks from those Parts.

Leaving Sydon, we went to lie at Baruth, which is a Place very pleasant and delectable, having two little For∣tresses upon the Sea-side. They say that this Baruth is the Place where

St. George slew the Dragon, and deli∣vered the Maid, as the Pourtrayes shew which are made thereupon.

The next Day, the 6th. of May, we arrived at Tripoly, where I conti∣nued for some Days, employing my self in gathering certain curious Plants, bearing excellent and odoriferous Flow∣ers, of which I gathered a great quan∣tity upon Mount Lebanus, and about the City of Tripoly; all which I lay'd safe up to carry to the King, as at my Arrival at Paris they were planted in the Garden of the Lovre which is be∣fore His Majesty's Chamber, whom I shewed several excellent Flowers.

The Bassa of Tripoly is a Man very Proud and Cruel; and I was told there, That once he being amorous of a very beautiful young Woman of one of the best Houses in the City, and seeing that he could not bring his Desires to pass by any sort of Artifice, he resolved to use Violence; and watching his opportunity when she went to the Stoves with her Mother, as it was their Custom; where pre∣sently going, he took this poor young Woman by force, and having-had his

Will of her, he took his Gangear, or Knife, made in the form of a Croi∣sant, and ript her open quite from the Privy-Parts up to the Neck. Behold how these Barbarians give Satisfa∣ction to their desires, how horrible and wicked sover they be!

I was also told how that this Bassa, at the Arrival of a certain French Ship, called the Dauphin, belonging to the Sieur de Moisset, had a mind to go on board her, where having been treated with all the Complaisance ima∣ginable, at his coming out from thence one of his Favourites reproached him for eating with the Christians; at which he was in such a Fury, that he cast his Gangear at him, with which he so wounded him, that had not the Surgeon immediately dressed him, he had died thereof upon the Place. They relate several other cruel Acts and Violences of this Man, which are very ordinary and common to all these Race of Infidels.

After having tarried some time at Tripoly, I parted from thence the 18th. of May, and embarked to return to France. We passed along by the

Isle of Cyprus the 21 st. and the 25th. we saw the Coast of Turkey, then the Mounts of Phenico and Sately, and not far from the Isle of Rhodes, which we left towards the North-West. After that, we passed by the Isle of Candiae, where we espied Two Turkish Cara∣mousins, driving full sail upon us; but when they saw themselves too weak for our Vessel, they tacked about a∣gain: We chased them with our Shot, but Night coming on, they escaped us; they being in great Fear, and u∣sing their utmost endeavour with Sails and Oars to get themselves out of our reach. From thence we passed along by the Isle of Malta, and the 12th. of June faw the Isle of Sardania, which we left to the North-East; and in the end, by the Grace of God, arrived at Marsailles the 19th. of June. I made not long stay there, but only to carry a Letter which I had for Monsieur the First President of Varix, at Aix, from whence I returned again to Marsailles, and from thence came streight to Paris, where I arrived the 24th. of July, 1612. For which, God be Praised for evermore.

END of the FIFTH BOOK.

Notes

• Embark∣ment at Marseil∣les.
• Sardania.
• Guerite Isle.
• Malta.
• Sicilia.
• Candia.
• Agose Isle.
• Cyprus.
• Arrival at Tripoly.
• Campo.
• Voyage to Mount Le∣banon.
• Cedars.
• Romadan, or Fast.
• Canibi.
• Inunda∣tions.
• A Descrip∣tion of Tripoly.
• Parting for Jerusa∣lem.
• Armel.
• After the Moorish manner.
• Bailbec.
• Aquaeducts.
• Jordan.
• Damascus.
• Passover of the Jews.
• Pataques.
• Cafars.
• Albouquel∣ques.
• Damascus described.
• Cafars, or Toll.
• Adventure of a Turk.
• Souba∣chins.
• Conetra.
• Cafars, or Toll-gathe∣rers.
• Chec▪Ma∣rabou.
• Turks Co∣vetous and Wicked.
• Jordan.
• Zaphet.
• Jacob's House.
• Cistern of Joseph.
• Valley of the Five Loaves.
• Sea of Ti∣berias.
• Lameny.
• Strange Danc••s.
• Eonjar.
• Mount Ta∣bor.
• Turkish Courtesie.
• Gigny
• Rude Treatment of the Au∣thor.
• Caranou∣by.
• Nabelous.
• Cafars Ty∣rannous towards the Chri∣stians.
• An Anci∣ent Vault.
• Arrival at Jerusalem.
• Bethle∣hem.
• Description of several Holy Pla∣ces.
• Monastery of Bethle∣hem.
• Bethuly.
• The Author quits his Turk.
• Holy Pla∣ce.
• Jerusalem Described.
• Parting from Jeru∣salem.
• Ramah.
• Jafa
• Caesarea.
• Mount Carmel.
• Acre.
• Tyre.
• Sydon.
• Fortune of a Ship of Malta.
• Baruth
• Tripoly▪
• Barbarous Cruelty of a Bassa.
• The Mounts of Pheni∣co, and Sately. Rhodes. Candia.
• Malta.
• Sardania.
• Arrival in France.