A relation of three embassies from His Sacred Majestie Charles II, to the great Duke of Muscovie, the King of Sweden, and the King of Denmark performed by the Right Hoble. the Earle of Carlisle in the years 1663 & 1664 / written by an attendant on the embassies ...

Of his Excellencies Journey from Mosco to Riga.

THis Embassy being finished, and that which was to have been into Poland layd a side, the Ambassador prepared for his departure towards Sweden, choosing the way by Riga in Livonia to pass to Stockholm by Sea. And being to Cross Livonia, which is 〈◊〉〈◊〉 desart Country, he dispacht an Express with 〈◊〉〈◊〉 Letter, to Count Oxenstern Governour Genera••

of Livonia to desire, that being upon an Em∣bassy towards his Majesty of Sweden, he would please to give orders, that at his arrival upon the frontiers he might be accommodated at his own cost with fresh horses and wagons, for his train and baggage to pass that Country with all.

In the mean time my Lord Ambassador at∣tended by a Regiment of horse departed from Mosco the 24. of June about the Evening, with intention to retreat seaven Versts that night from the Town. The 29. we arrived at Twere the cheif City of Twersco. The 3. of July we came to Tarsock, and from thence to Budeva. The 4. to Wisny Volsock, the 7. to Zimnogoray and Volday, the 8. we past, by Rakina and Vena two Townes, the 9. we lodged at Brunitze a little Borough. The 10. in the afternoon we made 27. Versts by water in twenty boats they had provided against our coming, so as (passing a small Arm of the Lake Ilmin into which the River, that passes by Brunitze falls) we arrived within 3. Versts of Novogorod the great. The 11. the Am∣bassador made his Entry into Novogorod. The 12. we departed, and on the 13. we past 67. Versts, 37. upon the Ilmin before noon by the favour of a good wind, and 30. after to a Town called Soltza upon the River Solognae which casts it self likewise into the Lake. The next day the Ambassador parted from

Soltza by land, and advanced 35. Versts. The 17. he made his Entry into Plesco, and the 20. at night he departed from thence. The 22. we arrived on the frontiers at Nihui∣sen, a Village in Livonia, the 25. at Marien∣borough, and the 3. of August at Riga.

Our Journey from Mosco to the frontiers (which was near two hundred leagues) was made under the conduct of two Pristafs, one of them called Jvan Stepanovitz Telepniof, one of the great Dukes Stolnicks conveyed his Excellence and took care of our Carriages and provisions to Novogorod, the other (called Simon Offonassevitz) conducted us from No∣vogorod to the Castle of Nihuisen upon the frontiers. The greatest part of this Journey we made on horsback, except when we went by water from Brunitze to Novogorod, and from thence to Soltza. For which reason we had commonly threescore sadle horses in our company, besides what were in out carriages which we had covered some to travail in, and some to retreat to at any time upon oc∣casion of rain. Besides these we had three Coaches, one of the Ambassadors, and two of the grand Dukes, which he had the Genero∣sity to send along with us as far as Livonia, principally for the accommodation of the Gen∣tlemen. For our baggage we had usually two hundred wagons, but little ones such as they

are in Moscovie. Four times we changed them in our Journey, as likewise our sadle horses, at Twere, at Wisny Volsock, and at Soltze, at Plesco; We having always a party of Strelitz and another of our own attending the baggage. This manner of travailing on horsback had been very pleasant, had not the sadles been so hard and so high as they use them in that Country: but they were made in that fashion, that most of us were in a short time in as much torment as we could have been upon the wooden horse.

All the Lodging we had in this Journey, was like that of Soldiers in the fields or woods, under the shelter of our Tents or covered wagons; upon which consideration, the Tzar had amongst other things provided us with three tents, one for the Ambassador which cost near five hundred crownes, another for the Countess, and the third for my Lord Morpeth. The tents were sent before from place to place with the Kitchin, and the greatest part of our baggage, and we making ordinarily 20 or 25 Versts in the morning, and as much after dinner, they pitcht them where they found water, and fields convenient for so great a number both of horses and men. So as his Excellence arriving with his train at the End of his stage found his Tents ready pitched, and his meat almost ready. At night his bed was made under his Tent: But most

part of the Gentlemen and Servants betook themselves to their wagons, and the wagoners to the ground for a lodging.

For what relates to our Victuals we suffered almost for want of chimneys, the same incon∣venience we had done betwixt Vologda and Mosco. For besids that we had generally no∣thing but Beef and Mutton, that was most comonly roasted only by the Sun and smoak in some corner of the field where the Cooks had piched their Tents to avoide the wind. But our greatest inconvenience was in our drink, being constrained to drink Mead or Quaz, that was heated and quite dead with the Carriage. Ice would have done very well to have revived it, but it was so precious at that time there was scarce enough for the Am∣bassadors Table. At Novogorod and Plesco (of which I shall speak hereafter) we were very well treated, we had all sorts of pro∣vision in abundance, and sack amongst the rest cost us nothing, but our paines to de∣mand it.

True it is, we met several difficulties in this Journey, and besides those I am speaking of, we suffered with the greatest impatience the persecution of the flies. Yet in other respects it must be acknowledged, that our Journey was very pleasant, if we consider the propi∣ciousnes of the weather, the advantage of travailing under the shadow of the Forests,

for the most part covered with an incredible quantity of excellent Strawberries, besides the delight of beholding the Rivers gliding tho∣rough these vast wildernesses. We observed seven or eight Lakes also, of which the most considerable were the Ilmin, and the Sveto Ozero, which signifies as much as the holy Lake. In the middle of this latter there is an Iland encompassed with several other little ones, which appear like so many woods about it, and a fair Convent within it, which makes a very agreeable prospect. As to the Ilmin, it is doubtless one of the goodliest Lakes in Europe, being about fifty miles in length, and thirty miles broad, so that when we past over it, we could see land but on one side of us. We had at that time a boat, that sayled with a saile of Mat made of Bulrushes. And this abundance of Lakes and Rivers, which gave us occasion of admiring the beauty of the Country, gave us also a convenience not unnecessary at this time, and that was oppor∣tunity of washing our selves, which we did very frequently in this journey, and amongst the rest in the Volga, which we crossed once again at Twere. But forasmuch as this Road is not so much used by Strangers, as the Road to Archangel, our habits appeared so unusual to the Peasants, that they no sooner saw two or three of my Lords Servants on horse-back, but away they run in all haste to

their houses, clapping their doors after them, as if we had been so many ominous Birds, or Spirits come on purpose to fright them; whereby it came to pass that in case we wanted any thing, there was no hopes of being supplyed by them.

And thus you have had what properly be∣longeth to the manner of our Travails, I shall now speak something of the most remarkeable passages therein.

It is a Maxime, it seemes, in the Court of Moscovie, that the better to set off the Ho∣nour they bestow upon Publique Ministers, they must now and then abuse and affront them, and as my Lord Ambassador was re∣ceived at Mosco according to this Rule, so the Court thought it expedient he should be used after the same way at his departure. As to their Ceremony in conducting him out of Town, and his accommodation during his whole journey after, it must be acknowledged honorable enough, and to his Excellencies very great satisfaction. And indeed to speak freely (considering the ardency wherewith his Excellence had prosecuted his Negotia∣tion, and the Prophesy of Pronchissof, who had told him, That the Great Duke would send him away without any honour at all) their civility was much greater than we had

reason to expect. However the Ambassador could not avoid the disorder which happened at his departure from Mosco, upon occasion of one Calthof, who had put himself amongst his Gentlemen, with design to return into En∣gland with them. This Calthof had been in the Tzars service for some years, and the time for which he had obliged himself being expired, his Excellence interposed for his dismission, and obtained it. Nevertheless the Tzar having notice that he was going, he sent a Messenger immediately after, as we were marching out of the Town, to recal him, and (which was the wonder) the Messenger did not lose his way. The Ambassador not con∣ceiving it proper to oppose himself directly against the pleasure of his Tzarskoy Majesty, returns Calthof to him, but with expectation he should be presently released. But five days afterwards being arrived at Twere, his Excellence understood they had upon a false pretence clapped him in Prison, and used him very ill. For which cause he dispatched a Post to Mosco with this Letter in Latin di∣rected to Larivon Lopookin, Diack or Chan∣cellor of the Embassy-Office.

Domine Cancellarie,

NEscio quo fato aut consilio factum sit, quod improsperae nostrae Legationi ultimus hic de Calthosio cumulus accesserit, nisi for∣tassis decorum existimetis, ut exitus introitum nostrum referret, & postrema primis per om∣nia responderent. Serenissimus Rex meus disertis verbis mihi mandaverat ut Calthosium mecum reducerem. Dominis Consiliariis, & Tibi praesertim Domine Cancellarie, saepius declaravi tempus effluxisse quo se Calthosius Czareae suae Majestati devinxisset, ideoque petii ut mecum posset reverti. Cancellarius etiam Czarei Areani significavit, nullam moram esse quo minus exiret. Quomodo postea successerit non potes ignorare. Ecce primarius Scriba in ipso itinere accurrit, & Czareae suae Majestatis nomine Calthosium postulat. Ego qui optimè novi quantum reverentiae & securitatis Lega∣torum dignitati debeatur, ne tamen importuno loco cum Czareâ suâ Majestate altercari vide∣rer, Moscuam illum remisi, ubi contrà quàm speraveram, & contra jus & aequum, falso praetextu eum in Custodiâ detineri audio. Quorsum haec vergant nescio, ne{que} vos ipsi scitis qui facitis. Me verò interim omnium infeli∣cissimum, qui pro summo meo Czareae suae Maje∣stati inserviendi studio cum tam infausto nun∣cio sim reversurus. Majus est hoc negotium

quàm primo ituitu videtur, & in hoc Calthosio omnium Sacrae suae Majestatis Subditorum hîc degentium res agitur, num pro liberis deinceps, an verò pro servis & captivis sint habendi. Oro te Domine Cancellarie, pro solitâ tuâ huma∣nitate, & pro muneris tui officio, ut haec Czareae suae Majestati sine hâc acerbitate (quam tamen ipsa rei natura mihi expressit) sed eâdem cum efficaciâ protinus velis remonstrare, ut Czarea sua Majestas maturè de hâc re providere & con∣sulere queat, & Calthosius (quod adhuc ex∣pecto) bonâ cum Czareae suae Majestatis gratiâ, me antequam limitem transierim, assequatur.

Twere, 30. Junii Anno D^ni. 1664.

CARLISLE.

My Lord Chancellor

BY what destiny or design the unsuc∣cesfulness of my Embassy should be accumulated with this violence to Calthof, I cannot imagine, unless You

esteem it perhaps decorous, that my exit should bear resemblance with my Entry, and my last usage be as disobliging as my first. The most Serene Prince my Master gave it me expressly in command, that I should bring Calthof back with me. I have often declared to the Lords of the Counsel, and to you my Lord Chan∣cellor more especially, that the time for which he had obliged himself to his Tzarskoy Majesty was expired, and for that reason I desired his return. The Chancellor of his Tzarskoy Majesties Cabinet acquainted me he might go if he pleased, there should be no impediment. But what is happened since You cannot be ignorant of. When I was even in my Journey, the principal clerk of the Am∣bassy-Office pursues me, and in his Tzars∣koy Majesties name demands Calthof. Yet though I understood well the reve∣rence and security was due to the dignity of an Ambassador, nevertheless lest I should seem upon slight occasions and un∣seasonably

to contend with his Tzarskoy Majesty, I returned him to Mosco. Where I am since informed he is upon a false pretence detained in Custody, not only contrary to my hopes and expectation, but to all law and equity whatsoever. How farr these injuries may extend I know not, nor even You Your selves that con∣trive them. In the mean time I am most unhappy, who notwithstanding my great Zeal and affection for the service of his Tzarskoy Majesty, must be constrained to return with this unwelcome tidings. This is a greater busines than it appeares to be at first sight, and in this Calthof the interest of all his most sacred Ma∣jesties Subjects living in this Country is at stake, and it is a question whether for the future they be to be esteemed freemen or slaves. I conjure You my Lord Chan∣cellor, by Your usual humanity, and by the duty of Your place, that You represent these things to his Tzarskoy Majesty, not with that sharpness (which notwith∣standing

the nature of the busines ex∣torted from me) but with such efficacy, that his Tzarskoy Majesty may apply some remedy in time, and that Calthof (which I expect) by his Majesties most gracious permission, may overtake me before I am out of His Dominions.

Twere, the 30. of June 1664.

CARLISLE.

This Letter was so farr from making any favourable impressions in the Tzar, that it exasperated him to that heighth, he resolved immediately to dispatch an Ambassador to the King of England to complain of his Excellences proceedings. The design was principally taken upon a pleasant mistake on their side, of qui for quid. For this Expression in the Letter, Quorsum haec vergant nescio, neque vos ipsi scitis qui facitis, which signifyes as it is tran∣slated, how farr these thing may extend I know not, nor You Your selves who contrive them, the Court of Muscovie mis-interpreted

it thus, I know not what may be the end of this busines, nor do You know Your selves what You do. Which they conceived the highest piece of insolence that he should dare to say, the principal Boyars and Councellors of so great a Prince were ignorant and impertinent, as if they had done all things at random with out deliberation or reason. And this transla∣tion in appearance was Golozofs the great Ma∣ster of Latin in that Court, and by whose in∣structions they had played the Criticks so ex∣quisitely in the word Illustrissimus, and who was much incenst against the Ambassador, since his refusal of the presents. So as there might be some prejudice or malice in the translation of the Letter.

However it was we found the Governour of Twere in so ill an humor, he no sooner heard the noise of our approach, but he shut up his gates immediately, as if the plague had been in the Country, so that we had nothing to trust to, but the fields and the suburbs of the Town, near which in a plain we pitcht our Tents. The Town is built on the side of a hill, the Volga running by it, besides another little River called Twere which denominates, the place. We staied there only two whole days least we should disturb the Governour too long, who with out doubt was impatient till he saw us departing.

At Tarsock we had the divertisement of

seeing a very large Bear dance, it was so tame one might without any danger get upon his back, and ride up and down upon him in that posture. At the same place our Chyrurgeon cut off with a Raisor a finger of one of the Pages, which had gangren'd at Mosco by occa∣sion of a nayle wherewith he had unhappily hurt it.

At Budeva we had the news of the great fire which happened on the 29. of June at Mosco (which was five days after we came a∣way) consuming a third part of the Town. I imagined immediately there was something fatal still in our departure, when I remem∣bred the fire had happened at Archangel also some few days after we had left that Town. In like manner it was that Lot was preserved, and all his family at the burning of Sodom.

The 10 of July Master Watson who had been recalled by General Monke in our first Voiage came again to us at Brunitze, where we were arrived the day before. He came from Eng∣land to Riga by Sea with some Equipage for the Ambassador, and past the rest of the way to us by land. We were surprised at his ar∣rival, and very much delighted to see him again in Moscovie, whose absence had given us some regret. The occasion of his return a∣mongst us was chiefly, that he might have the satisfaction to travail with his Excellence the

rest of our Voiage thorough Moscovy, Sweden and Denmark.

At Novogorod (which signifies New-town) my Lord Ambassador was received very so∣lemnly. But his Excellence having just entred the Town, there was an unhappy accident befel an antient person of quality, that gave some interruption to the formality. He was very richly apparelled and well mounted, but being weak and his horse unruly, he was fairly thrown down in the sight of the whole Town, and received much hurt by his fall. At this Novogorod our Pristaf from Mosco left us, and committed us to the care of Si∣mon Offonassevitz, with direction to send back the Tzars Coaches and Tents, assoon as the Ambassador was arrived at the Frontiers. Which much troubled the Ambassador, to whom Volinskey, one of his Commissioners, had promised at Mosco, that the Tents should attend him as far as Riga, in confidence of which promise his Excellence did not trouble himself to provide any at his own charges. Being disappointed in this manner, and in no condition to accommodate himself otherwise in that place, no wonder if he expressed his dissatisfaction, seeing himself lest by this trick in a very ill posture to travel from the Fron∣tiers to Riga. This Novogorod hath been for∣merly one of the greatest and best fortified Townes in all Moscovie, of which there are

still some marks remaining round about the Town. But at present it is reduced, and of no great circumference, however by reason of the Commerce it injoies it is well peopled. The Lake Ilmin is within a League of the Town, out of which comes the Volka or Volgda, a very fair River that runs by the Town.

But if we were well received at Novogorod, I must needs acknowledg the reception we had afterwards at Plesco was not inferiour, as if the Governours of these two Towns had been emulous, which should give hi•• Excellence the best entertainment. Never∣theless by the favour of two accidents the Governour of Plesco had the advantage; The first was by the unadvisedness of a Gen∣tleman of Plesco, who had seised, the night before our Entry, upon two horses belonging to the Ambassador's Train, having found them in the night in his possessions. The Go∣vernour was no sooner informed of this action but he apprehended the Gentleman, and sen•• him bound to the Ambassador to beg his life which his Excellence easily granted upo•• acknowledgment of the indiscretion of th•• fact. The other was by the report of a Regi∣ment of Thieves Polanders, that lay in wa•• on purpose for us, which was so common there was scarce any other discourse in Plesc•• and (as the news went) they were about five

hundred, under the Command of an one-eyed Serjeant. This tidings alarmed us a little, especially when we were told, they had done much mischief in that Province, and plun∣dered several Villages. But the Governour of the Town in this case also manifested his Generosity, and the particular care he had to oblige his Excellence: for he gave us a Convoy of five hundred foot well armed, to secure our bagage, and defend our persons against the attempts of this terrible Cyclops: In this place the Ambassador stayed in ex∣pectation of an answer from the Governour General of Livonia, by the return of the Messenger he had sent on purpose to him from Mosco the 14. of June, and who had Order to meet him again at Plesco. On the 19. of July, three days after we arrived there, the Messenger came to us with this Answer from Count Oxenstern the Governour Gene∣ral, that he had already deputed two Officers to receive his Excellence on the Frontiers, and that he had Orders from the Crown of Swe∣den, to defray the charges of his Carriages and Entertainment from thence to Riga. The Ambassador being surprised with the Civility of the offer, and with the particular care that Crown had taken to facilitate his passage thorough Livonia, prepared himself ••mmediately to depart, but with design if possible to evade so great an Obligation. But

before he came away observing Calthof was not returned, he sent another Letter to Mosco, making mention of the Extraordinary enter∣tainment he had received from the Gover∣nours of Novogorod and Plesco, as also of the designe on foot for the Carrying back his Tents, and these were the very words of the Letter, which had the same superscription with the former.

Domine Cancellarie,

QƲamvis ea sit nostra, & esse de∣beat de aquitate & prudentia Se∣renissimae Czariae suae Majestatis opinio, ut si non ante saltem post literas meas 30. Junij Twerae datas Calthofium di∣missum esse speremus, quum tamen Ples∣cuam pervenerim, & nihil adhuc de eo compertum habeam, Veredarium hunc hâc solâ de causà Moscuam remitto. Om∣nino enim, si non vobis (quod sane opor∣teret) at mihi tanti est, ne Serenissimi

Regis mei mandata, & hujusce subditi sui libertatem negligere viderer. Iniquis∣simum enim esset, & a mutuâ inter Re∣giam suam Majestatem & Czaream suam Majestatem benevolentiâ alienissimum, ut ille quem Czareae suae Majestati nullo modo obstrictum ulterius aut addictum esse innotuerit, tamen contra voluntatem suam, & nostram intercessionem, & vestra promissa diutius detineretur. Qua∣propter te etiam atque etiam rogo Domi∣ne Cancellarie, ut si Calthofius adhuc vobiscum haereat Serenissimae Czareae suae Majestati haec exponere velis, ne in re adeo exiguâ tam magnum amicitiae de∣trimentum patiatur. Me autem re magis injuriarum quam beneficiorum memorem esse Existimetis, hâc occasione tibi, adeó∣que Czareae sua Majestati significandum esse duxi egregiam Boyarij, Knez, Jvan, Borissovitz, Repenini erga me in itinere nostro per Novogorodam humanitatem (quam semper praedicabo) & Majorem etiam si major esse posset Knez, Pheo∣dor,

Gregorevitz, Romadonofsky, in hoc loco comitatem, qui ambo omnibus honoris & benevolentiae indiciis me cu∣mularunt. Neque enim ipsis imputan∣dum est, si (quod dicitur) sentoria (de Czareo suo curru minus laboro) in limi te Nihusiano mihi auferantur, quae Czarea sua Majestas, si bene Ockolniohey, Ba∣silium, Volinskoy intellexi, mihi Rigam usque commodavit, & propter quae ipse alia nostris impensis mihi comparare omisi. Dona quidem a Czarea sua Ma∣jestate mihi oblata, quoniam ita me dece∣bat, recusavi, non itidem usum eorum quae ad itineris nostri commoditatem fa∣ciebant. Et quum sub Pellibus noluerim, sub Tentoriis certe pernoctare licuisset. Si autem ita omnino decretum est, non sum adeo mollis ut per aliquot dies mili∣tari more sub dio agere nequeam, ne a Praefecto Suecico petere videar quae â Czarea sua Majestate, suppeditanda esse credideram. Cui nihilominus de omni∣bus beneficiis atque honoribus mihi de∣latis

gratias ago quàm maximas, & ea Domino meo Regi fidelissime recen∣cebo, Ʋale.

Plescuae, 14. Julii 1664.

CARLISLE.

My Lord Chancellor

THough the esteem I have and ought to have of the justice and prudence of his most Serene Tzarskoy Majesty, perswaded me that Calthof would be dismist (if not before) at least as Soon as my Letters from Twere on the 30. of June were arrived, yet being advanced as farr as Plesco, and having no advertisment thereof, I have dispacht this messenger again to Mosco for that very affair. Which (though to you it may not appear so considerable as it

ought) yet to me it is of that impor∣tance it can not be pretermitted with∣out neglecting the Commands of the most Serene King my Master, and the liberty of Calthof his Subject. And in∣deed it would be unjust and contrary to the mutual amity betwixt the King my Master and his Tzarskoy Majesty, should he who is manifestly now under no farther Obligation, or engagement to his Tzarskoy Majesty, be contrary to his own will, my intercession, and Your promises, detained any longer. I do make it my request therefore, my Lord Chancellor, that if Calthof be still amongst You, You would re∣present these things so effectually to his Tzarskoy Majesty, that the amity of our soveraignes may receive no dimi∣nution from so small and inconsiderable an occasion. For my own part, lest you should think me better at remem∣bring injuries than benefits, I have ta∣ken this occasion to signify to You,

and by consequence to his Tzarskoy Majesty the great civility Boyar, Knez, Jvan, Borissovitz, Repenini shewed me in my Journey by Novogorod (which I shall always acknowledg,) and the greater (if greater can be) of Knez, Pheodor, Gregorevitz, Romadonofsky in this place, both of them loading me at it were with testimonies of honor and respect. Nor do I think it imputable to them, if the Tents (for of his Tzars∣koy Majesties coach I am not so soli∣citous) be taken from me at the Borders at Nihuisen though if I well understood Ockolnickey, Basilius, Ʋolinskoy his Tzarskoy Majesty was pleased to spare me them as farr as Riga, and for which reason I had neglected to furnish my self at my own charges. It is true I did refuse (as became me) his Tzarskoy Majesties presents that were sent me, but not those conveniences that were necessary in my journey. And though I did not for the reasons fore-mentioned

accept of his furs, it might have been allowed me to have slept under his Tents. However if it be peremptorily decreed, I am not so soft and effeminate but rather than request those things from the Swedish Governour, that I thought were to have been supplyed by his Tzarskoy Majesty, I can like a Souldier for some days take my fortune in the fields. I do notwithstanding return many thanks to his Tzarskoy Majesty for all the honors and favours, I received from him, and shall make a faithful enumeration of them to the King my Master.

Plesco, the 14. of July 1664.

CARLISLE.

This Letter being dispatched, the next day ••y Lord Ambassador departed from Plesco. ••his Town is not of any great circumfe∣••ence, but it is very convenient and pleasant, ••aving a faire River which riseth in a Lake ••bout half a League from it, running by the ••own.

Our Convoy from Plesco to the Frontiers ••eing so good, as I said, we had no reason to ••pprehend the danger that threatned us, I ••ean the Regiment of Thieves, who by their ••xploits had got themselves a great Name in ••he Province of Pscove. We had as I said before, ••e hundred armed foot to secure our bagage, ••hich marched alwaies before, besides a ••quadron of horse, that attended on the per∣••on of the Ambassador. And if on the one ••de this Convoy was necessary for our pro∣••ection, so on the other side, his Excellence ••ooked upon it as a great honour and repu∣••ation to see himself the Object of so much ••are and respect. At every Stage he was ••onourably received amongst the noise of ••rums, and the Soldiers drawn up in very ••ood Order; and at night had very strong Guards placed about him. Insomuch that in two days march we arrive at the Frontiers, without any visible danger. And we had not ••een half an hour on the Frontiers, but the ••wo Officers deputed from the Governour General of Livonia, and the Governour of

the Castle of Nihuisen, arrived to salute th•• Ambassador with a Complement in Frenc•• very obliging and full of Civility. Among other things they gave him to understand the King and Queen Mother of Sweden at¦tended him with impatience, and that know¦ing the difficulty of the Passage from Nihuis•• to Riga, they had commanded he should 〈◊〉〈◊〉 accommodated with all things that mig•• expedite his arrival, and be necessary for 〈◊〉〈◊〉 journey. To which his Excellence replie•• that he was already surprised to understan•• by the Governour Generals Letter, the e••¦traordinary care that Crown had taken 〈◊〉〈◊〉 his Voiage, that there was nothing he aspire to with more passion, than to injoy the ho¦nour of seeing their Majesties, but that he w•• very desirous to continue his journey withou•• loading himself with so great an Obligatio•• which yet the incommodiousness of th•• Country seemed to engage him to. Bu•• these Gentlemen from Riga having broug•• store of Provisions along with them whic•• were designed for us; the Ambassador could not any long time defend himself upon th•• point. And indeed we had been but in an 〈◊〉〈◊〉 posture to have passed those desarts, had w•• had nothing to depend on, but our own pro¦vision and conduct.

Livonia (to speak two words of it by th•• by) is a Country so desolate, that in ne••

••reescore Leagues that we passed from Ni∣••sen to Riga, we found only two or three ••owns, and those remarkeable for nothing ••t their Antiquity. In short it is a Country 〈◊〉〈◊〉 Forests, abounding with a great number 〈◊〉〈◊〉 Lakes, as well as Moscovie; and though it ••e not so plain and flat as that, yet it is suffi∣••ently fertile in Grass and in Corn. As to the habitants, they are generally very blockish ••d barbarous, and without contradiction ••finitely less ingenious than the Moscovites. ••heir Habits and their Caps are like theirs; ••eir Language is as unpleasant as their Be∣••viour, and manner of Converse, and they ••rry upon their forheads all the tokens of a ••vage and uncivilized Nature. For being ••y the frequency of their Wars reduced as ••ey are to an inconsiderable number, and the ••wedes being in possession of all their Ports ••d strongest Towns, there remains nothing 〈◊〉〈◊〉 the Natives but the Tilling of their ••ound; insomuch as they stand almost in ••e same Condition with the Swedes, as the ••elotes did formerly with the Lacedaemonians. 〈◊〉〈◊〉 as the manner of their Solitude, their Sub∣••ction, and the poverty they are oppressed ••th, renders them more brutish and dange∣••us; and we had such experience of their ••opensity to thieving, we were forced to ••ve still an eye over them as over Birds of 〈◊〉〈◊〉 prey. Their Religion is the same with the

Swedes, viz. the Lutheran: but they are so well pleased with the Superstion of the antient Pagans, and retain so much of their ridiculous maximes, that it is believed the most of the•• make but a superficial Profession of the Chri∣stian Religion:

But, to return to what followes in ou•• Voiage, I shall give first an account of the manner of our passage to the borders of Mos∣covy, after the journey we had made of above five hundred Leagues cross that vast Coun∣try in eleven moneths. It is not to be doubted, but the small civility we found in this bar∣barous Nation, and the natural disposition each of us had to be returning towards his own Country, prevailed with us to leave Moscovy with much pleasure and satisfaction. And though there are many allurements in it, yet the very conversation of the Inhabitants disgusted us, and every body, but the Great Duke, being in slavery, we could scarcely believe our selves free, till we were from a∣mongst them. Whence it was that one of our Company, impatient till he was out of their Country, and at a distance from the Commu∣nication of the Moscovites, transported to see the Gentlemen from Riga, and their Train that came to salute the Ambassador, cried out assoon as he descried them, Ay marry, these people are like Christians indeed; as if the Moscovites had not had so much as the

least resemblance of them. Which question∣less had very much offended the Russes that were with us, had any of them that under∣stood English taken notice of it, and without contradiction the expression was rash enough, being spoken before the face of five hundred Moscovites in Armes. At this time (for it was about noon) there was a great debate where his Excellence should dine, the cooks having not been able, for want of water, to get any thing ready. The Swedish Gentlemen pressed the Ambassador to dine in the Castle of Ni∣huisen. The Pristaf opposed it very zealously, as well for the natural jealousy betwixt the two Nations of Swedeland and Moscovie, as for other reasons. At last after much contro∣versie, in which the Pristaf was very fierce, it was resolved we should pass the Frontiers, and pitch our Tents by the side of a brook, under the Castle of Nihuisen. The Ambassa∣dor passed thither on hors-back in a quarter of an hour, so that in a short time his dinner was got ready. The Swedish Gentlemen with∣drew thereupon into the Castle, the Pristaf and the Captains of the Guards (who bare us company into the Country of Livonia) ac∣cording to their custom, dined with his Ex∣cellence. After dinner they took their leaves of the Ambassador, and the Swedish Gentle∣men sent their Coaches to attend him into the Castle, where we were received with

several pieces of Cannon: which to us was news, the Moscovite using no such Ceremony in their Salutations, as I have intimated be∣fore. We had amongst us at this time a young Polish youth who had been brought up in Moscovie and in their Religion, which con∣cealed himself privately in order to his escape, and finding the Russians gone, he was tran∣sported with joy to find the house of the Am∣bassador (in which he had served some monthes) a place of his refuge and liberty.

We were very well treated at the Castle that night, which gave us great hopes (as in∣deed it did happen) the remainder of ou•• Voiage would not be so troublesome. And to speak truth we had always a good quantity of victuals, which was much better drest than in Moscovie, our Cooks having Kitchens o•• huts at least for convenient dressing of ou•• meat, whereas from Mosco to Nihuisen they had nothing ordinarily but the open field.

But if on the one side we were well satis∣fyed, on the other side we suffered much from the manner of our Travailing; For, beside the small number of horses which were provided us, they were so lean and lanke bodyed, that there was great Art required to the making of them go. And the most of them were so ill accoutred, that they had neither sadles nor bridles, and those sadle•• there were, being for the most part of massy

wood, tortured us in a most incredible manner; besides, with all this many of them had not above one styrrup if any at all. In so much ••hat in passing the limits of Moscovie, we found as great an alteration almost, as those do at sea who pass the Equinoctial line: which made us in love with that good Country where we had as to those conveniences all things we could desire. However this incommodity was sometimes a recreation to us, some of us making their misery an occasion of their mirth. A Page of ours (amongst the rest) was the first Actor in ••his Tragedy, at our departure from Nihuisen ••e was mounted upon a small blind, and very lean horse, who had neither bridle nor ••adle, his whole furniture being a simple ••ord made into a halter, and that so short ••hat he had much ado to make use of it. Being arrived upon the draw bridg, the horse ••ell on a sudden to capring, and rushing for∣ward insuch manner at the noise of the cannon, ••hat the Page very much surprized, thought ••t best to leave him alone in that Kind of ex∣••rcise. And so the horse went away as he ••ame without Eyes, or Sadle, or bridle, and ••he Page after that time made his Voiage al∣••ost wholly in the wagons. Some there ••ere that day that were forced to march on ••ot for want of horses, Others were so tyred ••ith them, they were sometimes constrained ••o the same thing for their refreshment.

But if we suffred in our travailing we were not much better accomodated in our Lod∣gings, the most of us being forced to make use of some Barn, or Kitchen to put our beds in to pass away the night. The Gentlemen for the most part lay in their litle coaches they had brought along with them from Moscovie. True it is we were entertained in three or four Castles, and Marienborough amongst the rest, where our accomodation was some∣thing better.

At Riga, the Ambassador was very well re∣ceived, they did him all the honor we could possibly desire, nor did he appear on his side less pompous and magnificent. But our entry being followed immediately with terrible tempests, and after the noise of the Canon with dismal claps of thunder, it was lookt upon immediatly by the superstitious people as an ill omen and presage.