Healths improvement: or, Rules comprizing and discovering the nature, method, and manner of preparing all sorts of food used in this nation. Written by that ever famous Thomas Muffett, Doctor in Physick: corrected and enlarged by Christopher Bennet, Doctor in Physick, and fellow of the Colledg of Physitians in London.

An apology for variety of meats, answering the former objections.

Hitherto I have spoken much from Philinus owne mouth, and more from mine own in his behalf, to op∣pugne the variety of meats: now read I pray you with the like patience, How I shall defend Philo against Phi∣linus, and prove apparently that variety of meats is both at board, and in our stomachs, most agreeable to nature, and consequently beneficial to maintain us in health.

First therefore Philinus abused our ears, in saying that all beasts feed onely upon some one kind of meat: For Eupolides his goats, yea and ours to, feed upon time, mints, hysope, heath, ivy, oken buds, beech, ash, mullen, chervil and tamarisk, and many other herbs differing no less in taste, smell, substance, and vertue one from ano∣ther. What Shepheard is ignorant, that his flock feed∣eth upon filipendula, daisies, mouseare, cowslaps, lambs∣tongue, milk-wort, Saxifrage and little mullen? yet work they no worse effect in their stomachs, then if they had onely been fed with grass; what should I speak of the Ostrich, which devoureth iron and pap toge∣ther, and refuseth no meat, unless men had also an O∣striches stomach? Onely let him serve to disprove Philinus avouching all beasts and birds to tye them∣selves as it were to one meat, and not to eat at once of divers nourishments.

Secondly where it was affirmed, that brute beasts and birds out live men, because they are of a simpler diet; I must pardon Philinus being a heathen, and ignorant of the Scriptures: wherein Methusalem and divers Patri∣arkes are registred to have lived longer, then any beast

or bird whatsoever, called fitly of Homer by the name of Mortals, as upon whom more rots, murrens, aches, di∣seases and plagues do light, then usually happen unto men. Nay go to your Raven and Stag, those longest∣livers of all the unreasonable breathers; feeds not the Raven upon all flesh, eats not the Stag of all herbs, boughs and mast that comes in his way? ye feedeth he not some times upon Snakes and Adders?

Thirdly, the Physitians giving of simple meats to aguish persons, proveth no more that variety is not good for most men, then that because Thersites can hardly carry his single speare, therefore Agamemnon shall not put on his compleat armour.

Fourthly, the sedition and tumults foolishly feared, and rashly presupposed to be in meats of divers kinds, afflicting the stomach either at the time of concoction or digestion, that reason of all other is most unreasona∣ble. For who would or can imagine, that Man the Epi∣tome or Abstract of the whole world, in whom some∣thing of every thing (to speak Platonically and yet tru∣ly) is placed and inserted, could live ever, or long in health without variety of meats? Hippocrates seeing such variety of simples rooted, sprouted and quickned upon the earth, gathereth thereupon very truly and learnedly, that there lye hidden in the earth all kinds of tastes, smells, liquors, and heats, and that it is not (as some imagine) a dry and cold dust, void of all tast, heat and moisture.

Much more then may I justly avouch, that many meats may and do best agree with most mens stomachs, in whose bodies not onely firm flesh, but also thin blood, sweet phlegm, bitter gall, and sourish melancholy is necessary to be preserved: wherefore let hot meats, cold meats, moist meats, dry meats, bitter, meats, salt

meats, light meats and heavy meats be mingled together in an indifferent stomach (so that they be well prepa∣red, orderly taken, and no error committed in time, measure and quantity) no sedition or tumult will arise, no not so much as if the stomach had taken but one meat; for (according to that Oeconomical distribution of Em∣pedocles)

Sweet straitwaies will it self to sweet apply, Sharp runs to sharpe, with gall doth bitter lye, Hot drinks and meats to fiery parts ascend, Whilst cold and moist to watry members tend.

An no marvel, considering that natural heat (like a good Stuard) dissolveth the mass into a creamy sub∣stance, running thorough all himself, that he may give unto all their due nourishment. Wherefore sith this little world of ours was created full of variety, why should we tye our stomachs onely to fruit, fish, or flesh, when God in his goodness hath given us all of them?

Nay furthermore, sith man can digest more sorts of meats, stones and mettles (being rightly prepared) then either the Goat, Raven, or Ostrich, why should his power be bridled by any unnatural Edict, proceeding rather from the brain of a sensless head, then from the deep and mature judgment of any Physitian? for sence teacheth us, that most compound bodies must feed upon divers meats, and that not variety but satiety, not quality but quantity, not simple taking, but unorderly taking of them, (out of time, out of season, and out of their due place and proportion) causeth that dissention and tumult in our bellies, whence all manner of dislikings or discon∣tentments arise, and at which (to use Hippocrates his words) 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, Nature is

distracted, troubled and (as it were) ••gnasheth her teeth.

As for that Simile of Diars, and the other of Sweet∣oil, and the third of Musick; they are all more childish, then worthy of an answer.

For simple colours (as white and black) are not the purest, for then the skies should bear them; yea the purest jewels give most variety of colours and lights in their own kind. And whereas cloth died with some one simple keepeth longest his colour in Philinus opinion, it is little material if it were true; considering meat is not given to dye our bodies, but to be transformed into our sub∣stance.

Again, though a sweet oil keepeth best his scent and perfection whilst it is unmingled, yet that disproveth not the necessity of mixtures, for whose sake simples were no less created, then Consonants and Vowels ap∣pointed to bring forth syllables: wherefore I laugh whilst others praise and extol, Guevarraes folly, who like another Erasistratus (whom he Apishly followeth in many points) complaineth of compound medicins, re∣ducing all kind of agues to be cured with a plain Ptisan, a thin Cucumber milke, and a little water and oil ming∣led together. Foolish Bishop I deride thy ignorance, because thou deservest not to be pitied deriding others. Go to the little Bee, thou great Idiote; and tell me if thou canst number, out of how many flowers hony is made. Hony I say, the sweetest meat, and best medicin of all others, yea the very quintesence (as Isaac the Ne∣therlander writeth) and refined marrow of infinite whol∣some and good vegitables. Can that imperfect Crea∣ture perfectly convert so many divers juices into one soveraign meat, and may not man (the perfectest crea∣ture of all others) do the like in his stomach, when he feedeth of many good and wholesome dishes? As for

Socrates his comparison (whom Apollo himself term∣ed the Prince of Sages) I answer thus,

What though variety be to the stomach, as choise of fair women in a Weak mans eye, causing more strong an appetite then reason or nature would? By the same argument we might as well reprove cleanliness in hand∣ling, skill in seasoning, and handsomness or neatness in serving in our meats; because when these concur we feed more largely; which if it be a fault, let Philinus here∣after eat bread made of meal which was never boult∣ed; and parsneps and raddish never washt nor scraped; let him eat of boil'd meat that was never scum'd, and of dry, lean birds (such as Q. Curtius threw out at the window) never basted, and of bitter Feldefares never drawn.

But I (and all wise men with me) will consider, that as honesty and delight may be matcht toge∣ther, so cleanliness and variety is no hindrance to a good stomach or good digestion, but rather an help and friend to both. Nay it fareth with our stomachs as it doth with Sailers; who can easily pull in the sheet when they have too much wind, but cannot enlarge it when they have too little: for so likewise it is a small labour or cunning to kill appetite by onely seeing and feeding upon one dish, but to revive it being extinguished, or to sharpen it being dulled, requireth no little art, and con∣sisteth chiefly in variety and well dressing of meats.

Item to answer in a word, the law contra Alloenias; I grant the thing, but I deny the equity: for what greater reason have we to mingle wine and water (which was never forbidden but at drunken feasts) then to min∣gle a tart wine with a pleasant, a temperate wine with a hot Sack, and a scowrer (when occasion perswadeth) with Alegant or a harsh binder? therefore to return

Philinus his owne Sword into his own bosome: as it is not unlawfull (by the law of reason and nature) nay as it is necessary and expedient to mingle wines for some persons: so variety of meats taken orderly at one meal, are lawful, necessary and expedient.

Moreover (to beat him again with his own Similes) I confess all instruments of musick to be tuned to one Har∣mony: but being so tuned, if the Musicians play ever (like the Cuckoe) but one Song, will not the ear and head be wearied and offended? nay will they not in time be both sick? Can the eye see at once many objects, the ears hear many instruments playing together, & (Philinus) shal not the stomach as well concoct, keep and digest for the bo∣dy many meats? but when reason faileth, thou hast almost daunted Philo with inartificial arguments, drawn from antiquity, examples, customes, and sancti∣ons of Senators.

Now if by the like arguments I confirm Variety, I doubt not but like a Scholler I may cry quittance▪ but if furthermore I confute thy Authorities, as being either falsified or unaptly applied, thou shalt live in my debt till the next Audit.

Wherefore to begin with Rogatianus, albeit for many years he was delivered of the gout, yet Caelius avoucheth not that he was perfectly cured. And Epicurus though he fed but upon one dish at a meal, yet perhaps at every meal he fed on a several dish. Pontanus also was a weak and sickly man, to whom I confess many dishes (especi∣ally being of contrary kinds or qualities) are not to be permitted. Neither doth the Gentlemans answer in Lacon prove more the use then of one dish at a meal, then his Cooks demand inferreth the use and mingling of many meats. But if by the few dishes upon the Al∣ters of heathen Gods, thou thinkest to prove that men

at home feed onely upon one meat, thou art much de∣ceived, for hereafter I will plainly demonstrate that they fed on many. As for the old Scotish custome, suppose it were true; yet sure I am, that since King Arthurs dayes who lived years before Christ, their owne Chronicler recordeth them to have used great variety of dishes. That Moschus Antimolus lived onely with figs, it is no great marvel when he hated from his Cra∣del all other meat. Stilpo also fed onely on garlick, be∣cause his poverty was such that he could buy nothing else. As for Genovefue the holy made of Paris; albeit I suspect Marulus for a common lier, yet he saith, that her feeding so long upon one dish consumed her body, and that upon the Bishops licence she was enforced to eat milk in Lent. Zoroaster was no doubt a most learn∣ed Philosopher, who if he lived twenty years in the Wilderness onely with one Cheese, no doubt it was some great Cheese like to Parmisan, full of variety, and not made of one but many milks. As for the mon∣strous riot of the Ionians, Lituanians, and latter Ro∣mans, drawn from the example and imitation of those wicked Princes and Emperours: I detest and abhor it as much as Philinus, ascribing unto excessive variety as many mischiefs of body and mind; as temperate varie∣ty brings profit, health, refreshings and pleasures to them both. The Jewes murmuring doth as little please me, for though nature told them that one meat could not conveniently nourish every man, especially such as were accustomed fourty years together in Egypt to feed di∣versty; yet when every man felt that one meat sent by God, did miraculously preserve man, woman and child, agreeing with all ages, times, persons and complexions, they ought to have been contented; being as perfitly

nourished with one dish, as any of us can be with many.

Last of all, that example of Adam and Eve is most violently wrested against variety, whereas rather it is an argument against unity: for suppose they had at once tasted of all fruits in the garden, could they have been sick upon it? no verily, but the tasting of one alone (I mean the forbidden one) was the parent and author of all diseases: wherefore the variety of whole∣some meats set down by Physitians are not offensive, when one dish forbidden may prove dangerous: as I could prove by many reasons, did not experience clear it with her sun-shine.

Now to answer examples also with examples; though the Kings of Egypt had no great variety of dishes, yet that they ever fed on two at the least, Diodorus Siculus reports. And if the old Romans fed not diversly, why had they usually three dishes at their table? The Persi∣ans though they had but few meats, yet they abounded in Salades and Junckets. The old Grecians contrari∣wise, used much meat and few Junckets: yea I read that Plato himself when Socrates and Menippus supped with him, had six several dishes at his table (figs, peason, beans, whortleberries, roasted beech-nuts, and wafers in the end to close up their stomachs) whereof they all fed, saving that Menippus set aside the wafercakes with his hand, saying; that a sweet aftercourse makes a stinking breath: Another time I read, that Plato set before his loving friends and fellow Citizens olives, herb-salades, divers kinds of flesh and fish, and last of all new Cheese; whereby any wiseman may gather, that the ancients fed upon many dishes of opposite kindes, and gratified their stomachs (which every mans stomach coveteth) with variety of meats. As for our owne Nation (for whom chiefly I write this Treatise) Hector Boethius a∣voucheth,

that English men from before King Arthurs dayes, were accustomed to feed much and very di∣versly. And Paulus Iovius writeth thus. The whole na∣tion of English men delight still (as ever they did hereto∣fore) in feasting and making of good chear, eating much meat and of many sorts, prolonging their sittings with musick and merryments, and afterwards sporting them∣selves in set dances.

Wherefore sith we are naturally desirous of many meats, and have stomachs above all other Nations, able to digest them; and custome also hath confirmed our variety of dishes (which cannot even in bad things be suddenly altered without a mischiefe) I perswade strong and indifferent stomachs to continue their used Diet, feeding orderly and soberly of divers meats. Divers I say, but not too many; for I like not (Dubias Coenas) the doubtful feasts of Cardinal Wolsey, nor the Abbot of Glastenburies Diet (who were served with so many sorts of dainties that one might stagger and doubt where first to begin his dinner) nor the ancient tables of Lon∣don; where (as Diogenes said of Maronia) every Citi∣zens house (in a manner) was a cooks shop, till plenty of mouths made penury of provision, and dearth of Corne and Victuals lately taught them sobriety.

Last of all where the Proverb saith, That many dishes make many diseases; it hurteth not our position and de∣fence of variety: for not diversity but multitude offen∣deth our stomachs, that is to say, more diversity of meats then they can well abide: accordingly as much meat hurteth not concoction, but that which is overmuch taken in too great a quantity, whereof we are now to dis∣course in the next Chapter.

As for variety of meats in the time of sickness, let us hear what Galen saith. Diversity of meats are as ne∣cessary

in sicknes (if it be a compound sickness) as vari∣ety of medicins. For a hot liver requireth a cooling meat, and a cold stomach that which is hot; and if a mixt disease have made a mixed distemperature in any part, there divers and compounds meats be of necessity required. Otherwise many meats (especially of contra∣ry kind, substance and quality) are most hurtful and tu∣multuous. Com. in 1. de vict. rat. in ac. cap 3. & 3. de vict. rat. in ac. cap. 35. & primo in Eund. cap. 18 where∣by we may easily perceive, that variety of meats is per∣mitted sometimes to the sick, yea though it be joined with contrariety of kinds.

Notes

• Iliad. 1.
• Lib. 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉.
• Guevarra in his Epistles.
• Isaac. Belg. lib. de quint. mell. essent.
• Cael. lib. 6. ant. lect.
• Hect. Boeth. l. 9. Scot. hist.
• Alex. l. 3. c. 11.
• Athen. l. 10. c. 4
• Marul. lib. 1. decad. 1.
• Plin. l. 11. c▪ 42▪
• Numb. 11.
• Lib. 1. c. 6.
• Alex l. 5. c. 21.
• Gell. l. 13. c. 11
• l. 9 Scot▪ hist▪
• lib. 2. histor.