Purchas his pilgrimes. part 1 In fiue bookes. The first, contayning the voyages and peregrinations made by ancient kings, patriarkes, apostles, philosophers, and others, to and thorow the remoter parts of the knowne world: enquiries also of languages and religions, especially of the moderne diuersified professions of Christianitie. The second, a description of all the circum-nauigations of the globe. The third, nauigations and voyages of English-men, alongst the coasts of Africa ... The fourth, English voyages beyond the East Indies, to the ilands of Iapan, China, Cauchinchina, the Philippinæ with others ... The fifth, nauigations, voyages, traffiques, discoueries, of the English nation in the easterne parts of the world ... The first part.

[ 30]

CHAP. XVII. A Letter of M^r. THOMAS CORYAT, which trauailed by Land from Ierusalem to the Court of the Great Mogol, written to M^r. L. WHITAKER. To which are added pieces of two other, to entertayne you with a little Indian-Odcombian mirth.

[ 40]

Most deare and beloued Friend, Master L. W. Animae dimidium meae.

From the Court of the most mightie Monarch, called the Great MOGOL, resident in the Towne of Asmere, in the Orientall INDIA. Anno 1615.

COrdiall salutations in the Authour of saluation, IESVS CHRIST. Where [ 50] I writ vnto you last, I remember well; euen from Zobah, as the Prophet SAMVEL calleth it (2. Booke, Chap. 8. vers. 3.) that is, Aleppo, the principall Emporium of all Syria, or rather of the Orient World; but when, in truth I haue forgotten, for I keepe not Copies of my Letters, as I see most of my Country-men doe, in whatsoeuer place of the World I finde them. How∣beit, if my coniecture doe not much faile mee, I may affirme that it was about fifteene moneths si••ce, about a moneth after, I returned vnto Aleppo from Ierusalem, after which time, I remayned there three moneths longer, and then departed t••••rehence in a Carauan into Persia, passing the noble Riuer Euphrates (the chiefest of all th••t irrigated Paradise, where-hence, as from their originall, the three other Riuers were deriued) about foure dayes iourney beyond Aleppo▪ on the [ 60] further side of which, I entered Mesopotamia, alias Chaldea, for the E••phrates in that place disterminate••h Syria and Mesopotamia. There-hence I had two daye•• iourney to Vr of the Chal∣deans, where Abraham was borne, a very delicate and pleasant Citie. There I remayned foure

dayes, but I could see no part of the ruines of the house, where that faithfull seruant of God was borne, though I much desired it. From thence, I had foure dayes iourney to the Riuer Tygris, which I pas∣sed also; but in the same place where I crossed it, I found it so shallow, that it reached no higher th••n the calfe of my legge: for I waded ouer it afoote. Now I well perceiue by my ocular experience, that Chal••ea is named Mesopotamia, for that it is inclosed with the foresaid Riuers. Tra••••cto Ti∣gride, I entred Armenia the greater: After that, Media the lower, and resided sixe dayes in the Metropolis thereof, heretofore called E••batana, the Summer seate of Cyrus his Court, a Citie eft soone mentioned in the Scripture, now called Tauris, more w••full ruines of a Citie (sauing that of Troy and Cyzic••m in Natolia) neuer did mine eyes behold. When I seriously contemplated those [ 10] 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, the dolefull testimonies of the Turkish deu••stations, I called to minde Ovi••s Verse:

Ludit in humanis diuina potentia rebus.

And that of HESIOD,

〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉.

From that, I had two dayes iourney to a Citie that in Strabos time was called Arsacia in Media the higher, now Casbin, once the Royall seate of the Tartarian Princes, foure dayes iourney from the Caspian Sea. From Casbin, I had three and twentie dayes to Spahan in Par••hia, the place of [ 20] residence of the Persian King. But at my being there, he was in the Countrey of Gurgistan, ransac∣king the poore Christians there with great hostilitie, with Fire and Sword. There I remayned two moneths, and so with a Carauan trauelled into the Easterne India, passing foure moneths and odde dayes, in my trauell betwixt that (through part of the true Persia, and a large tract of the noble and renowned India) and the goodly Citie of Lah••r in In••ia, one of the largest Cities of the whole Vniuerse, for it contayneth at the least sixteene miles in compasse, and exceedeth Constantinople it selfe in greatnesse. But a dozen dayes before I came to Lahor, I passed the famous Riuer Indus, which is as broad againe as our Thames at London, and hath his originall out of the Mountayne Caucasus, so much ennobled by the ancient both Poets and Historiographers, Greeke and La••ine; which Plato for curiositie sake, in his trauells of these parts went to see. It lyeth not farre from that [ 30] vpon the Confines of Scyth••a, now called Ta••taria: My selfe also conceiuing some hope of seeing it before my finall farewell of India. I had almost forgotten one memorable matter to impart vnto you: About the middle of the way, betwixt Spa••a•• a••d Lahor, iust about the Frontiers of Per∣sia and India, I met Sir Robert Sherley and his Lady, trauelling from the Court of the Mogol, (where they had beene very graciously receiued, and enriched with Presents of great value) to the King of Per••••a's Court; so gallantly furnished with all necessaries for their trauailes, that it was a great comfort vnto me, to see them in such a flourishing estate. There did hee shew mee, to my sin∣gular contentment, both my Bookes neatly kept; and hath promised mee to shew them, especially mine Itinerarie, to the Persian King: and to interpret vnto him some of the principall matters in the Turkish Tongue, to the end I may haue the more gracious accesse vnto him, after my returne [ 40] thither. For thorow Persia I haue determined (by Gods he••pe) to returne to Aleppo. Besides other rarities that they carr••ed with them out of India, they had two Elephants and eight Antlops, which were the first that euer I saw: but afterwards, when I came to the Mogols Court, I saw great store of them. These they meant to present to the Persian King. Both hee and his L••dy vsed mee with singular respect, especially his Lady, who bestowed fortie shillings vpon mee in Persian money, and they seem••d to exult for ioy to see mee, hauing promised mee to bring mee in good grace with the Persian King, and that they will induce him to bestow some Princely benefit vpon mee: this I hope will bee partly occasioned by my Booke, for he•• is such a iocu••d Prince▪ that hee will not bee meanly delighted with diuers of my f••cetious h••••roglyphicks, if they are truly and genuinely expounded vnto him.

[ 50] From the famous Citie of Lahor I had twentie dayes iourney to another goodly Citie called Agra, through such a delicate and euen Tract of ground, as I neuer saw before: and doubt whether the like be to be found within the whole circumference of the hab••t••ble World. Another thing also in this way, being no lesse memorable then the plainnesse of the grou••d: a row of Trees on each side of this way where people due trauell, extending it selfe from th•• Townes-end of Lahor, to the Townes-end of Agra; the most inc••mparable shew of that kind, that euer my eyes sarueyed. Likewise, whereas there is a Moun∣tayne s••me ten dayes iourney b••twixt Lahor and Agra, but very neare ten miles out of the way, on the left hand: the people that inhabite that M••untayne, obserue a custome very strange, that all the brothers of any Family, haue but one and the selfe-same wife so that one woman sometimes doth serue sixe or se∣uen men: the like whereof I remember I haue read in Strabo, concerning the Arabians that inhabited [ 60] Ara••••a felix. Agra is a very great Citie, and the place where the Mogoll did alwayes (sauing within these two yeares) keepe his Court but in euery respect much inferiour to Lahor.

From thence to the Mogols Court, I had ten dayes iourney, at a Towne called Asmere. where I found a Cape Merchant of our English-men, with nine more of my Country-men, resident there vpon termes

of Negotiations, for the right Worshipfull Company of Merchants in London, that trade for East-India.

I spent in my iourney betwixt Ierusalem and this Mogols Court, fifteene monethes and odde dayes: all which way I trauersed a foote, but with diuers paires of shooes, hauing beene such a Propateticke, (I will not call my selfe Peripateticke, because you know it signifieth one that maketh a perambulation about a place, 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, signifying to walke about) that is a walker forward on foot, as I doubt whether you euer heard of the like in your life; for the totall way betwixt Ierusalem and the Mogols Court, contayneth two thousand and seuen hundred English miles. My whole perambulation of this Asia the greater, is like to be a Passage of almost six thousand miles, by that time that in my returne backe thorow Persia, afterward also by Babylon and Niniuie, I shall come to Cairo in Egypt, and from that downe the Nilus to Alex∣andria, there to be one day (by Gods helpe) imbarqued for Christendome; a very immense dimension of [ 10] ground.

Now I am at the Mogols Court, I thinke you would bee glad to receiue some narration thereof from me, though succinctly handled: for I meane to be very compendious, lest I should otherwise preoccupate that pleasure, which you may hereafter this reape by my personall relation thereof. This present Prince is a very worthy person, by name Selim, of which name I neuer read or heard of any more then one Maho∣metan King, which was Sultan Selim of Constantinople, that liued about eightie yeeres since, the same that conquered Ierusalem, Damascus, Aleppo, Cairo, &c. adding the same to the Turkish Empire. He is fiftie and three yeares of age, his natiuitie day hauing bin celebrated with wonderfull pompe since my ar∣riuall heere: for that day he weighed himselfe in a paire of golden Scales, which by great chance I saw the same day (a custome that he obserues most inuiclably euery yeere) laying so much Gold in the other Scale [ 20] as counteruaileth the weight of his bodie, and the same he afterward distributed to the poore. He is of com∣plexion neither white nor blacke, but of a middle betwixt them: I know not how to expresse it with a more expressiue and significant Epitheton then Oliue: an Oliue colour his face presenteth: hee is of a seemely composition of bodie, of a stature little vnequall (as I guesse not without grounds of probabilitie) to mine, but much more corpulent then my selfe. The extent of his Dominion is very spacious, being in circuit lit∣tle lesse then foure thousand English miles, which very neere answereth the compasse of the Turkes Terri∣tories: or if any thing be wanting in Geometricall dimension of ground, it is with a great pleonasme sup∣plyed by the f••rtilitie of his soile: and in th••se two things he exceedeth the Turkes, in the fatnesse (as I haue said) of his Land, no part of the World yeelding a more fruitfull veine of ground, then all that which lyeth in his Empire, sauing that part of Babylonia, where the terrestriall Paradise once stood: whereas a great part of the Turkes Land is extreame barren and sterrile, as I haue obserued in my peregrination thereof, [ 30] especially in Syria, Mesopotamia and Armenia; many large portions thereof being so wonderfull fruit∣lesse, that it beareth no good thing at all, or if any thing, there Infelix lolium & steriles dominantur auenae.

Secondly, in the coniunction and vnion of all his Territories, together in one and the same goodly Con∣tinent of India, no Prince hauing a foot of Land within him. But many parcels of the Turkes Countries are by a large distance of Seas, and otherwise, diuided asunder. Againe, in his Reuenue he exceedeth the Turke and the Persian his Neighbour by iust halfe: for his Reuenues are forty Millions of Crownes of six shillings value, by the yeere: but the Turkes are no more then fifteene Millions as I was certainly in∣formed in Constantinople; and the Persians fiue Millions, plus minus, as I heard in Spahan. It is said [ 40] that he is vncircumcised, wherein hee differeth from all the Mahometan Princes that euer were in the World.

He speaketh very reuerently of our Sauiour, calling him in the Indian Tongue, Ifazaret Eesa, that is, the great Prophet, Iesus: and all Christians, especially vs English, he vseth so beneuolently, as no Ma∣hometan Prince the like. He keepeth abundance of wilde Beasts, and that of diuers sorts, as Lyons, E∣lephants, Leopards, Beares, Antlops, Vnicornes; whereof two I haue s••ene at his Court, the strangest beasts of the World: they were brought hither out of the Countrey of Bengala, which is a Kingdome of most singular fertilitie within the compasse of his Dominion, about foure Moneths iourney from this, the mid∣land parts thereof being watered by diuers Channels of the famous Ganges, which I haue not as yet seene, but (God willing) I meane to visit it before my departure out of this Countrey, the neerest part of it be∣ing [ 50] not aboue twelue dayes iourney from this Court. The King presenteth himselfe thrice euery day without faile to his Nobles, at the rising of the Sunne, which he adoreth by the eleuation of his hands; at noone, and at fiue of the clocke in the euening: but he standeth in a roome aloft, alone by himselfe, and looketh vpon them from a window that hath an embroydered sumptuous couerture, supported with two siluer Pillasters to yeeld shadowes vnto him. Twice euery weeke, Elephants fight before him, the brauest spectacle in the World: many of them are thirteene foot and a halfe high; and they seeme to iustle toge∣ther like two little Mountaines, and were they not parted in the middest of their fighting by certaine fire-workes, they would exceedingly gore and cruentate one anch••r by their murdering teeth. Of Ele∣phants the King keepeth thirtie thousand in his whole Kingdome at an vnmeasurable charge; in feeding of whom and his Lions, and other Beasts, he spendeth an incredible masse of Money, at the least tenne thousand pounds sterling a day. I haue rid vpon an Elephant since I came to this Court, determining one [ 60] day (by Gods leaue) to haue my Picture expressed in my next Booke, sitting vpon an Elephant. The King keepeth a thousand Women for his owne body, whereof the chiefest (which is his Queene) is called Normal. You may remember to relate this vnto your Friends, that I will now mention as a matter

very memorable; I spent in my tenne Monethes trauell betwixt Aleppo and the Mogolls Court, but three pounds sterling, yet fared reasonable well euery day; victuals being so cheape in some Countries where I trauelled, that I oftentimes liued competently for a penny sterling a day: yet of that three pound I was coozened of no lesse then tenne shillings sterling, by certaine lewd Christians of the Ar∣menian Nation: so that indeed I spent but fiftie shillings in my tenne Monethes Trauailes. I haue bin in a Citie in this Countrey, called Detee, where Alexander the Great ioyned Battell with Porus King of India, and conquered him; and in token of his victorie, erected a Brasse Pillar, which remay∣neth there to this day. At this time I haue many Irons in the fire; for I learne the Persian, Turkish, and Arabian Tongues, hauing alreadie gotten the Italian (I thanke God) I haue beene at the Mogolls Court three Monethes alreadie, and am to tarrie heere (by Gods holy permission) fiue Monethes longer, [ 10] till I haue gotten the foresaid three Tongues, and then depart here-hence to the Ganges, and after that, directly to the Persian Court.

Your assured louing Friend till death, THOMAS CORYATE.

[ 20] From the Court of the Great Mogoll, resident at the Towne of Asmere in the Easterne India, on Michaelmas day. Anno 1615.

I Doe enioy at this time as pancraticall and athleticall a health, as euer I did in my life: and so haue done euer since I came out of England, sauing for three dayes in Constantinople, where I had an Ague, which with a little letting bloud was cleane banished, the Lord bee humbly thanked for his gracious blessing of health that he hath giuen vnto mee. I was robbed of my money, both gold and siluer (but not all, by reason of certaine clandestine corners where it was placed) in a Citie called Diarbeck in [ 30] Mesopotamia, the Turkes Countrey, by a Spaheê, as they call him, that is, one of the Horse-men of the Great Turke; but the occasion and circumstance of that misfortune, would bee too tedious to re∣late. Notwithstanding that losse, I am not destitute of money I thanke God. Since my arriuall heere, there was sent vnto this King one of the richest Presents that I haue heard to bee sent to any Prince in all my life time: it consisted of diuers parcels; one being Elphants, whereof there were one and thirtie, and of those, two so gloriously adorned, as I neuer saw the like, nor shall see the like againe while I liue. For they wore foure chaines about their bodies all of beaten gold: two chaines about their legges of the same; Furniture for their buttockes of pure gold: two Lions vpon their heads of the like gold: the ornaments of each, amounting to the value of almost eight thousand pound sterling: and the whole Present was worth ten of their Leakes, as they call them; a Leake being ten thousand pound sterling: the whole, a hundred [ 40] thousand pounds sterling.

To the High Seneschall of the Right Worshipfull Fraternitie of Sireniacall Gen∣tlemen, that meete the first Friday of euery moneth, at the signe of the Mere∣maid in Bread-street in London, giue these: From the Court of the Great Mogoll, resident at the Towne of Asmere, in the Easterne-India.

[ 50]

RIght Generous, Iouiall, and Mercuriall Sirenaickes; I haue often read this Greeke Prouerbe, 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, that is, one hand washeth another, and the Latine, Mulus Mulum scabit, one Mule scratcheth another; by which the Ancients signified, that courtesies done vnto Friends, ought to bee re∣quited with reciprocall offices of friendship. The serious consideration hereof, doth make me to call to minde that incomparable elegant safe-conduct, which a little before my departure from England, your Frater∣nitie with a generall suffrage gaue me for the securitie of my future Peregrination, concinuated by the pleasant wit of that inimitable Artizan of sweet Elegancie, the moytie of my heart, and the quondam Seneschall of the Noblest Societie, Master L. W.

Therefore since it is requisite that I should repay some-what for the same, according to the Lawes of humanitie: Such a poore retribution as I sent vnto you from Aleppo, the Metrpolitan Citie of Syria, [ 60] by one Master Henry Allare of Kent, my Fellow-pilgrime there-hence to Ierusalem; I meane a plaine Epistle, which I hope long since came vnto your hands: I haue sent vnto you by a man no lesse deare vnto mee then the former, one Master Peter Rogers, a Kentish man also, from the most famigerated Region

of all the East, the ample and large India: assuring my selfe, that because I am not able to requite your loue with any essentiall gratulations, other then verball and scriptall, you will as louingly entertaine my poore Letters, being the certaine manifestation of an ingenuous minde, as if I should send vnto you the minerall riches or Drugges of the Noble Countrey.

Thinke it no wonder I pray you, that I haue made no vse in all this space since I left my natiue Coun∣try, of the superexcellent Commeate; for I haue spent all my time hitherto in the Mahometan Countries, and am like to spend three yeeres more in these Musselman (as they call them) Regions of Asia, after of Europe, before I shall arriue in Christendome. For this cause I left it in Aleppo, with my Countrimen, there to receiue it from them againe, after that I shall haue ended my Indian and Persian perambulation: and there-hence to carrie it once more to Constantinople, and that by the way at Iconium, Nicaea, Nicomedia, and in the Countrey of Natolia, a iourney of fortie dayes. From that finally thorow the [ 10] heart of Greece, by the Cities of Athens, Thebes, Corinth, Lacedaemon, Thessalonica, and to the Citie of Ragouze, heretofore Epidaurus, so sacred for the Image of Aesculapius in the Country of Scla∣uonia, once called Illyricum; from thence I haue three dayes iourney to the inestimable Diamond set in the Ring of the Adriatique Gulfe, (as once I said in the first Harangue that euer I made to Prince Henrie of blessed memorie, translated since my departure from London, from the Terrestriall Ta∣bernacles, to the Coelestiall Habitations) venerous Venice, the Soueraigne Queene of the Mare su∣perum: if the great Iehouah shall be so propitious vnto me, as to grant me a prosperous arriuall in that Noble Citie, I will there beginne to shew your safe conduct, and to decantate, yea and to blazon your prayses for the same: and after in euery other place of note, vntill I shall arriue in glorious London, communicate it to the most polite, with that the Cities will yeeld, thorough which my laborious feet•• [ 20] shall carrie me, it would bee superuacaneous to commemorate vnto you the almost incredible extent of Land, I trauersed from Ierusalem to the Court of the Great Mogoll in India, where I now reside; with the variable Regions and Prouinces inter-iacent betwixt them, and the manifold occurrences and obseruations of speciall worke in this vaste Tract; for it would bee such a fastidious Discourse, that it could not be well comprehended in a large sheete of Paper: but Master Whitaker, I hope, I will not faile to import vnto you in a few compendious Relations, which I haue acquainted him with, in a particu∣lar Letter to himselfe: of which, if I should haue written againe to you, it would haue proued Crambe bis cocta.

The Gentleman that bringeth this Letter vnto you, was Pracher to the English Merchants, conuersant at the Court of the aforesaid mightie Monarch, in the Towne of Asmere in this [ 30] Easterne-India: and in diuers louing offices hath beene so kind vnto me, that I intreat your Generosities to entertaine him friendly for my sake, to exhilarate him with the purest quintessence of the Spanish, French and Rheni••h Grape, which the Mermaid yeeldeth; and either one in the name of you all, or else the totall vniuersalitie of the one after another, to thanke him heartily, according to the qualitie of his merits. Farewell, Noble Sirenaickes.

Your Generosities most obliged Country-man, euer to be com∣manded by you, the Hierosolymitan-Syrian-Mesopotamian-Armenian-Median-Parthian-Persian-Indian Legge-stret∣cher [ 40] of Odcomb in Somerset, THOMAS CORYATE.

PRay remember the recommendations of my dutifull respect; to all those whose names I haue heere expressed, being the louers of Vertue, and Literature; and so consequently the wel-willers (I hope) of a prosperous issue of my designements, in my laborious pedestriall perambulations of Asia, Africa, and Europe. [ 50]

Written with mine owne hand, at the Court of the Great Mogoll, Shaugh Selim, resident in the Towne of Asmere, in the vmbilicke of the Orientall India, the eight day of Nouember, being Wednes∣day, Anno Dom. 1615.

INprimis, to the two Ladies Varney, the Mother and the Daughter, at Boswell House without Temple-barre,

2 Item, to that famous Antiquarie, Sir Robert Cotten, at his House in the Black-Friers. Pray tell him that I haue a very curious white Marble head of an ancient Heros or Gyant-like Champion, found out very casually by my diligent peruestigation amongst the ruines of the once renowmed Citie of [ 60] Cyzicum, mentioned by Cicero in his second Oration (if my memory doth not faile me) against Verres, situate in an Peninsula of Bythinia, in the goodly Countrey of Natolia, neere the Sea Propontis: to this head will his best Antiquities whatsoeuer veile bonnet.

3 Item, to that courteous, sweet, and elegant-natured and nurtured Gentleman, Master William Ford, Preacher to our Nation at Constantinople, if you happen to meet him in any part of England; one that deserueth better of me, then any man in all this Catalogue: for of him haue I learned whatso∣euer superficiall skill I haue gotten in the Italian Tongue: pray reduplicate my commendations vn∣to him.

4 Item, to Master George Speake, my generous and ingenuous Countrey-man, the Sonne and heire apparant of Sir George Speake, in Somerset-shire; him you are like to find in any Terme, either at the Middle-Temple, or in some Barbers house neere the Temple.

5 Item, to Master Iohn Donne, the Author of two most elegant Latine Bookes, Pseudo-martyr, [ 10] and Ignatij Conclaue: of his abode either in the Strand, or else-where in London, I thinke you shall be easily informed by the meanes of my friend, Master L. W.

6 Item, to Master Richard Martin, Counseller, at his Chamber in the Middle-Temple, but in the Terme-time, scarce else.

7 Item, to Master Christopher Brooke of the Citie of Yorke, Counseller, at his Chamber in Lin∣colnes Inne, or neere it.

8 Item, to Master Iohn Hoskins, alias Aequinoctiall Pasticrast, of the Citie of Hereford, Coun∣seller, at his Chamber in the Middle-Temple.

9 Item, to Master George Garrat; of whose beeing you shall vnderstand by Master Donne a∣foresaid.

10 Item, to Master William Hackwell, at his Chamber in Lincolnes Inne.

[ 20] 11 Item, to Master Beniamin Iohnson the Poet, at his Chamber at the Black-Friers.

12 Item, to Master Iohn Bond my Countrey-man, chiefe Secretarie vnto my Lord Chan∣cellour.

13 Item, to Master Doctor Mocket, resident perhaps in my Lord of Canterburies house at Lam∣beth, where I left him.

14 Item, to Master Samuel Purchas, the great Collector of the Lucubrations of sundry Classicall Authors, for description of Asia, Africa, and America. Pray commend me vnto him and his 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉 Master Cooke, by the same token, that he gaue me a description of Constantinople, and the Thracius Bosphorus, written in Latine by a French-man, called Petrus Gillius: which Booke, when I carried [ 30] once in an after-noone vnder mine arme, in walking betwixt our English Ambassadors House in P••ra, on the opposite side to Constantinople, and the Flemish Ambassadors house, I lost it very vnfortunately to my great griefe, and neuer found it againe, &c.

THere is another and later Letter of his to his Mother, written the last of October 1616. part of which for the Odcombian stile and Coryaticall straine, I haue hither transcribed. Great pitie it is that his voluminous Obseruations of his foot Pilgrimage, longer then perhaps of any man euer hath bin in that kind, are either lost, or at least not come to some discreet hand, which might, no doubt, distill good instructions thence for the publike, as sweet fresh water out of the huge salt Ocean.

[ 40] Some written Notes of his, it pleased Sir Thomas Roe to giue me, whence (omitting such things as before you haue had in Sir Thomas Roes owne Obseruations) I haue inserted a few, following this Letter.

From Agra, the Capitall Citie of the Dominion of the Great Mogoll in the Easterne India, the last of October 1616.

MOst deare and wel-beloued Mother, though I haue superscribed my Letter from Asmere, the Court of the greatest Monarch of the East, called the Great Mogoll in the Easterne India, which [ 50] I did to this end, that those that haue the charge of conueyance thereof, perceiuing such a title, may bee the more carefull and diligent to conuey it safe to your hands: yet in truth the place from which I wrote this Letter, is Agra, a Citie in the said Easterne India, which is the Metropolitan of the whole Dominion of the fore-said King Mogoll, and ten dayes iourney from his Court at the said Asmere. From the same As∣mere I departed the twelfth day of September An. 1616. after my abode there twelue moneths and sixtie dayes: which though I confesse it were a too long time to remaine in one and the selfe-same place, yet for two princip••ll causes it was very requisite for me to remaine there some reasonable time: first, to learne the Languages ••f those Countries, through which I am to passe betwixt the bounds of the Territories of this Prince and Christendome, namely these three, the Persian, Turkish, and Arab: which I haue in 〈◊〉〈◊〉 comp••••ent measure attayned vnto by my labour and industry at the said Kings Court, matters as 〈…〉〈…〉 [ 60] vnto me a•• money in my Purse, as being the chiefest, or rather only meane to get me money, if I 〈…〉〈…〉 d••stitute, a matter very inc••dentall to a poore Foot-man Pilgrim, as my selfe, in these 〈…〉〈…〉 Cou••tries, thorow which I trauell. Secondly, that by the helpe of one of those 〈…〉〈…〉 the Persian, I might both procure vnto my selfe accesse vnto the King and be able to

expresse my mind vnto him about the matter for the which I should haue occasion to discourse with him. These were the reasons that moued me so long to tarry at the Mogols Court, during which time, I abode in the house of the English Merchants, my deare Countrimen, not spending one little piece of money either for dyet, washing, lodging, or any other thing. And as for the Persian tongue, which I studyed very ear∣nestly, I attayned to that reasonable skill, and that in a few moneths, that I made an Oration vnto the King before many of his Nobles, in that language, and after I had ended the same, discoursed with his Maiestie also in that tongue very readily and familiarly; the Copy of which speech, though the tongue it selfe will seeme to an English-man very strange and vncouth, as hauing no kind of affinitie with any of our Christian languages, I haue for noueltie sake written out in this Letter, together with the transla∣tion thereof in English, that you may shew it to some of my learned friends of the Clergie, and also of the [ 10] Temporaltie, in Euill, and elsewhere, who belike, will take some pleasure in reading so rare and vnvsuall a tongue as this is. The Persian is this that followeth.

The Copie of an Oration that I made in the Persian tongue to the Great Mogol, before diuers of his Nobles.

HAzaret Aallum pennah salamet, fooker Daruces ve tehaungesh ta hastam kemia emadam az wellagets door, ganne az mulk Inglizan: kekessanaion petheen mushacas cardand ke wel∣lagets, mazcoor der akers magrub bood, ke mader hamma nezzaerts dunmast. Sabebbe amadane mari mia boosti char cheez ast auval be dedane mobarreckdeedars. Hazaret ke seete caramat ba [ 20] hamma Trankestan reeseedast ooba tamam mulk Musulmanan der sheenedan awsaffe. Hazaret daueeda amadam be deedane astawne akdas musharaf geshtam duum bray deedane feelhay Haza∣ret, kin chunm ianooar der heech mulk ne dedam seu in bray deedane namwer daryaee shumma Gauga, ke Serdare hamma daryaha dumiest. Chaharum een ast, keyee fermawne alishaion amayet fermoyand, ke betwanam der wellayetts Vzbeck raftan ba shahre San arcand, bray Zeerat car∣dan cabb••e mobarreche Saheb crawncah awsaffe tang oo mosachere oo der tamam aallum me∣shoor ast belk der wellagette Vz bec eencader meshoor neest chunan che der mulc Inglisan ast digr, bishare eshteeac daram be deedanc mobarrec mesare Saheb crawnca bray een sabeb, che awne saman che focheer de shabr Stambol boodam, ye aiaeb cohua amarat deedam dermean yecush bawg nasdec shaht mascoor coia che padshaw Eezawiawn che namesh Manuel bood che Saheb [ 30] crawnca cush mehmannec aseem carda bood, baad as gristane Sulten Batasetra as iange aseem che shuda bood nas dec shahre Bursa, coima che Saheb crawn Sultan Baiasetra de Zenicera tellaio be∣stand, oo der cafes nahadond een char chees meera as mulche man ium baneed ta mia, as mulc. Room oo Arrac peeada geshta, as door der een mulc reseedam, che char hasar pharsang raw darad, beshare derd oo mohuet casheedam che heech ches der een dunnia een cader mohuet ne cashee∣dast bray deedune mobarrec dedare Haseretet awn roos che be tactte shaugh ne shaughee musha∣raf fermoodand.

The English of it is this.

LOrd Protector of the World, all haile to you: I am a poore Traueller and World-seer, which am [ 40] come hither from a farre countrie, namely England, which ancient Historians thought to haue beene situated in the farthest bounds of the West, and which is the Queene of all the Ilands in the World. The cause of my comming hither is for foure respects. First, to see the blessed face of your Maiestie, whose wonderfull fame hath resounded ouer all Europe, and the Mahometan Countries. When I heard of the fame of your Maiestie, I hastened hither with speed, and trauelled very cheerfully to see your glorious Court. Secondly, to see your Maiesties Elephants, which kind of beasts I haue not seene in any other Countrey. Thirdly, to see your famous Riuer Ganges, which is the Captayne of all the Riuers of the World. The fourth is this, to entreate your Maiestie that you would vouchsafe to grant me your gracious Passe, that I may trauell into the Countrey of Tartaria to the Citie of Samarcand, to visit the blessed Se∣pulchre [ 50] of the Lord of the Corners (this is a title that is giuen to Tamberlaine in this Countrie, in that Persian language: and whereas they call him the Lord of the Corners, by that they meane, that he was Lord of the corners of the World, that is, the highest and supreme Monarch of the Vniuerse:) whose fame, by reason of his Warres and Victories, is published ouer the whole World: perhaps hee is not altoge∣ther so famous in his owne countrey of Tartaria, as in England. Moreouer, I haue a great desire to see the blessed Tombe of the Lord of the Corners for this cause; for that when I was at Constantino∣ple, I saw a notable old building in a pleasant Garden neare the said Citie, where the Christian Emperor that was called Emanuel, made a sumptuous great Banquet to the Lord of the Corners, after he had taken Sultan Bajazet, in a great battell that was fought neere the Citie of Brusia, where the Lord of the Corners bound Sultan Bajazet in fetters of gold, and put him in a Cage of yron. These foure causes mo∣ued [ 60] me to come out of my natiue Countrey thus farre, hauing trauelled afoote thorow Turkie and Persia, so farre haue I traced the World into this Countrey, that my Pilgrimage hath accomplished three thousand miles, wherein I haue sustayned much labour and toyle, the like whereof no mortall man in this World did euer performe, to see the blessed face of your Maiestie, since the first day that you were inaugurated in your glorious Monarchall Throne.

After I had ended my Speech, I had some short discourse with him in the Persian Tongue, who amongst other things told me, that concerning my trauell to the Citie of Samarcand, he was not able to doe me any good, because there was no great amity betwixt the Tartarian Princes and himselfe, so that his commen∣datory Letters would doe me no good. Also he added, that the Tartars did so deadly hate all Christians, that they would certainly kill them when they came into their Counntry. So that he earnestly disswaded me from the iourney, if I loued my life and well fare; at last, he concluded his discourse with me, by a summe of money, that he threw downe from a window, thorow which he looked out, into a sheet tied vp by the foure corners, and hanging very neere the ground, an hundred pieces of siluer, each worth two shillings sterling, [ 10] which counteruailed ten pounds of our English Money: this businesse I carried so secretly by the helpe of my Persian, that neither our English Ambassadour, nor any other of my Countrimen (sauing one spe∣ciall, priuate, and intrinsicall friend) had the leact inckling of it, till I had throughly accomplished my de∣signe: for I well knew that our Ambassador would haue stopped and barracadoed all my proceeding there∣in, if he might haue had any notice thereof, as indeed hee signified vnto me, after I had effected my pro∣iect, alleag••ng this, forsooth, for his reason, why hee would haue hindred me, because it would redound somewhat to the dishonour of our Nation, that one of our Coutrey should present himselfe in that begger∣ly and poore fashion to the King, out of an insinuating humour, to craue Money of him: But I answered, our Ambassadour in that stout and resolute manner, after I had ended my businesse, that he was conten∣ted to cease nibling at me, neuer had I more need of Money in all my life, then at that time▪ for in truth I had but twentie shillings sterling left in my Purse, by reason of a mischance I had in one of the Turkes [ 20] Cities called Emert, in the Countrey of Mesopotamia, where a Miscreant Turke stripped me of almost all my Monies, according as I wrote vnto you in a very large Letter the last yeare, which I sent from the Court of this mightie Monarch, by one of my Countrimen that went home by Sea in an English ship, laden with the Commodities of this India, which Letter, I hope, came to your hands long since. After I had beene with the King, I went to a certaine Noble and Generous Christian of the Armenian Race, two dayes iourney from the Mogolls Court, to the end to obserue certaine remarkeable matters in the same place, to whom, by meanes of my Persian Tongue, I was so welcome, that he entertayned me with very ci∣uill and courteous complement; and at my departure gaue mee very bountifully twenty pieces of such kind of Money as the King had done before, counteruailing fortie shillings sterling. About tenne dayes after that, I departed from Asmere, the Court of the Mogoll Prince, to the end to begin my Pilgrimage, after [ 30] my long rest of fourteene Moneths, backe againe into Persia, at what time our Ambassadour gaue mee a piece of Gold of this Kings Coyne worth foure and twentie shillings, which I will saue (if it bee possible) till my arriuall in England: so that I haue receiued for beneuolences, since I came into this Countrey, twentie markes sterling, sauing two shillings eight pence, and by the way, vpon the confines of Persia, a little before I came into this Countrey, three and thirtie shillings foure pence in Persian Money, of my Ladie Sherley: at this present I haue in the Citie of Agra, where-hence I wrote this Letter, about twelue pounds sterling, which according to my manner of liuing vpon the way, at two pence sterling a day, (for with that proportion I can liue pretty well, such is the cheapnesse of all eatable things in Asia, drinkable things costing nothing, for seldome doe I drinke in my Pilgrimage any other liquour then pure water) will maintaine me very competently three yeeres in my trauell, with meate, drinke and cloathes. In this Citie [ 40] of Agra, where I am now, I am to remaine about sixe weekes longer, to the end to expect an excellent opportunity, which then will offer it selfe vnto me, to go to the famous Riuer Ganges, about fiue dayes iour∣ney from this, to see a memorable meeting of the gentle people of this Countrey, called Banians, whereof about foure hundred thousand people go thither of purpose to bathe and shaue themselues in the Riuer, and to sacrifice a world of Gold to the same Riuer, partly in stamped Money, and partly in massie great lumpes and wedges, throwing it into the Riuer as a Sacrifice, and doing other strange Ceremonies most worthy the obseruation. Such a notable spectacle it is, that no part of all Asia, neither this which is called the great Asia, nor the lesser, which is now called Natolia, the like is to be seene; this shew doe they make once euery yeare, comming thither from places almost a thousand miles off, and honour their Riuer as their God, Creator and Sauiour; Superstition and Impietie most abominable in the highest degree of these brutish [ 50] Ethnicks, that are aliens from Christ and the Common-wealth of Israel. After I haue seene this shew, I will with all expedition repaire to the Citie of Lehor, twentie dayes iourney from this, and so into Per∣sia, by the helpe of my blessed Christ, &c.

Your dutifull, louing and obedient Sonne, now a desolate Pilgrime in the World, [ 60] THOMAS CORTATE.

Certaine Obseruations written by THOMAS CORYAT.

WHereas the Beggers begge in this Countrey of a Christian in the name of Bibee Maria, and not of Hazanet Eesa, thereby we may gather that the Iesuits haue preached Mary more then Iesus.

A great Raia a Gentile, a notorious Atheist, and contemner of all Deitie, glorying to professe he knew no other God then the King, nor beleeuing nor fearing none: sitting dallying with his women, one of them plucked a haire from his brest, which being fast rooted, plucked off a little of the skinne, that bloud appeared; this small skarre festered and gangrened incurably, so that [ 10] in few dayes he despaired of life, and beeing accompanied with all his friends and diuers Cour∣tiers, he brake out into these excellent words: Which of you would not haue thought that I be∣ing a man of Warre, should haue dyed by the stroke of a Sword, Speare or Bow? but now I am inforced to confesse the power of that great God, whom I haue so long despised, that hee needs no other Lance then a little haire to kill so blasphemous a wretch, and contemner of his Maie∣stie, as I haue beene.

Ecbar Shaugh had learned all kind of Sorcery, who beeing once in a strange humour to shew a spectacle to his Nobles, brought forth his chiefest Queene, with a Sword cut off her head, and after the same perceiuing the heauinesse and sorrow of them, for the death of her (as they thought) caused the head, by vertue of his Exorcismes and Coniunctions, to be set on againe, [ 20] no signe appearing of any stroke with his Sword.

Sultan Cursaroo hath but one Wife, for which one principall reason is, that during his impri∣sonment, the King intending to make a hunting Progresse of foure moneths, consulted how to keepe him safe in his absence; at last resolued to build a Towre, and immure him within it, without gate, doore or window, except some small holes to let in Ayre higher then he could come vnto; putting in all sorts of prouision whatsoeuer, both fire, clothes, &c. with some seruants to abide with him for that time. While this was building, his Wife came and fell at the Kings feete, and neuer would let goe till shee had obtayned leaue to bee shut vp with him: the King much perswading to enioy her libertie; she vtterly refused any other comfort, then to be the companion of her Husbands miseries; amongst which this was the greatest, that if a∣ny [ 30] of those that were immured, beeing in number fiftie, should haue dyed in the Kings ab∣sence, there was no meanes to burie them, for that no man was admitted to come neere the Towre.

The Fountaine found the first day by one of my Lords people, Master Herbert, brother to Sir Edward Herbert, which if he had not done, he must haue sent ten Course euery day for water, to a Riuer called Narbode, that falleth into the Bay of Cambaya at Buroch; the custome being such, that whatsoeuer Fountaine or Tanke is found by any great man in time of drought hee shall keepe it proper and peculiar to himselfe, without the interruption of any man whatsoeuer. The day after one of the Kings Haddys finding the same, and striuing for it, was taken by my Lords people, and bound all, &c. a great controuersie being about it, &c.

Remember the Charitie of two great men, that in the time of this great drought, were at [ 40] the charge of sending ten Camels with twentie persons euery day to the said Riuer for water, and did distribute the water to the poore, which was so deare, that they sold a little skinne for eight Pise.

Ecbar Shaugh, a very fortunate Prince and pious to his Mother: his pietie appearing in this particular, that when his Mother was carried once in a Palankeen betwixt Lahor and Agra, he trauelling with her, tooke the Palankeen vpon his owne shoulders, commanding his greatest Nobles to doe the like, and so carried her ouer the Riuer from one side to the other, and neuer denyed her any thing, but this, that shee demanded of him, that our Bible might be hanged a∣bout an Asses necke, and beaten about the Towne of Agra, for that the Portugals hauing taken [ 50] a ship of theirs at Sea, in which was found the Alcoran amongst the Moores, tyed it about the necke of a Dogge, and beat the same Dogge about the Towne of Ormuz: but hee denyed her req••est, saying, That if it were ill in the Portugals to doe so to the Alco••an, being it became not a King to requite ill with ill, for that the contempt of any Religion, was the contempt of God, and he would not be reuenged vpon an innocent Booke: the morall being, that God would not suffer the sacred Booke of his Truth to be contemned amongst the Infidels.

One day in the yeere, for the solace of the Kings Women, all the Trades-mens Wiues enter the Mohal with some-what to sell, in manner of a Faire, where the King is Broker for his Wo∣men, and with his gaines that night makes his supper, no man present, (obserue that whatsoe∣uer is brought in of virill shape, as instance in Reddishes, so great is the iealousie, and so fre∣qu••nt [ 60] the wickednesse of this people, that they are cut and iagged for feare of conuerting the same to some vnnaturall abuse) by this meanes hee attaines to the ••••ght of all the prettie Wen∣ches of the Towne: at such a kind of Faire he got his beloued Normahal.

After Shaof Freed had wonne the Battle of Lahor by a stratagem, the Captaines being taken by the King, and hanged vpon Flesh-hookes and Stakes, made an entrance for the King to La∣hor, his sonne Cursaroo being then taken Prisoner, and riding bare-footed vpon an Elephant; his Father demanded him how hee liked that Spectacle of his valiant and faithfull Cap∣taines hanging in that manner, to the number of two thousand: hee answered him, that hee was sorrie to see so much Crueltie and Iniustice in his Father, in executing them that had done nothing but their dutie; for that they liued vpon his Bread and Salt: but hee should haue done right if hee had saued them, and punished him which was their Master, and the Authour of the Rebellion.

[ 10] For more cleere declaration of this excellent vertue vpbraiding the coldnesse of our Charitie, you shall vnderstand a custome of this King, who sleeping in his Gusle-can, often when hee a∣wakes in the night, his great men (except those that watch) being retired, cals for certaine poore and old men, making them sit by him, with many questions and familiar speeches passing the time, and at their departure cloathes them, and giues them bountifull Almes often, what∣soeuer they demand, telling the money into their hands.

For a close of this Discourse, I cannot forget that memorable Pietie, when at Asmere hee went afoot to the Tombe of the Prophet Hod. Mundin there buried, and kindling a fire with his owne hands, and his Normahal, vnder that immense and Heidelbergian-aequipollent Brasse-pot, and made Kitcherie for fiue thousand poore, taking out the first Platter with his owne hands, and [ 20] seruing one; Normahal the second, and so his Ladies all the rest. Cracke mee this Nut, all the Papall Charitie vaunters.

An Armenian desirous to turne Moore, procured a Noble-man to bring him to the King, whom the King asked why hee turned Moore, whether for preferment? hee answered, No. Some few Monethes after crauing some courtesie of the King, hee denyed it him, saying, That hee had done him the greatest fauour that could bee, to let him saue his soule, but for his bodie hee himselfe should prouide as well as he could.

The King likes not those that change their Religion, hee himselfe beeing of none but of his owne making, and therefore suffers all Religions in his Kingdome. Which by this notable example I can make manifest: The King had a Seruant that was an Armenian, by name Scan∣der; [ 30] to whom vpon occasion of speech of Religion, the King asked if hee thought either hee or the Padres had conuerted one Moore to bee a true Christian, and that was so for conscience sake, and not for money: who answered with great confidence, That hee had one which was a perfect Christian, and for no worldly respect would bee other, whom the King caused presen••ly to bee sent for: and bidding his Master depart, demanded why hee was become a Christian, who rendred certaine feeble, implicite, Iesuiticall Reasons, and auowed that hee would neuer be other: whereupon the King practised by faire speeches and large promises, to withdraw him to the folly of Mahomet, offering him Pensions, meanes, and command of Horse, telling him hee had now but foure Rupias a Moneth Wages, which was a poore Re∣ward for quitting his, praepuced faith; but if hee would recant, hee would heape vpon him [ 40] many Dignities: the Fellow answering, it was not for so small Wages hee became Christian, for hee had limbes, and could earne so much of any Mahometan, but that hee was a Christian in his heart, and would not alter it. This way not taking effect, the King turned to threat∣nings, and menacings of Tortures and Whippings; but the Proselyte manfully resoluing to suffer any thing, answered, hee was readie to endure the Kings pleasure. Vpon this resolu∣tion, when all men expected present and seuere castigation, the King changed his tune, high∣ly commending his constancie and honestie, bidding him goe and returne to his Master, and to serue him faithfully and truely, giuing him a Rupia a day Pension for his Integritie. About two Monethes after, the King hauing beene a hunting of wilde Hogges, a beast odious to all Moores, and accustomed to distribute that sort of Venison among Christians and Razbootes, sent for this Armenian, Master of this conuerted Catechumen or Mahometan, to come and [ 50] fetch part of his Quarrie. The Armenian not beeing at home, this his principall Seruant came to know the Kings pleasure, who commanded him to take vp a Hogge for his Master, which no Moore will touch; which hee did, and being gone out of the Court-gate, was so hooted at by the Mahometans, that hee threw downe his Present in a Ditch, and went home, concealing from his Master what had passed. About foure dayes after the Armenian comming to his watch, the King demanded of him whether the Hogge he sent him were good meat or no; who replyed, hee neyther heard of, nor see any Hogge: whereat the King remembring to whom this Hogge was deli••ered, caused the fellow to be sent for, and examining the matter, had it confessed how he threw away the Hogge, and neuer carryed it home: the King pressing to know the rea∣son, the poore fellow answered how he was mocked for touching it, and it being a thing odious [ 60] to the Moores, for shame he threw it away: at which he replyed, By your law there is no diffe∣rence of meats, and are you ashamed of your lawes? or to flatter the Mahumetans, doe you in out∣ward things forsake it? now I see, thou art neither good Christian, nor good Mahumetan, but a dis∣sembling

knaue with both, while I found thee sincere, I gaue thee a pension, which now I take from thee, and for thy dissimulation doe command thee to haue a hundred stripes, which were presently giuen him in stead of his money, and bade all men by his example take heed, that see∣ing hee gaue libertie to all Religions, that which they choose and professe, they may sticke vnto.

I had thought at first to haue finished all these Indian Voyages in this fourth Booke: but per∣ceiuing it to grow into such greatnesse, and withall such great alterations as the Turkish Trade at Moha, and especially the Persian at Iasques, haue caused in the English Trade, with the contrary Attempts of the Portugals, and chiefly the Dutch, (be∣fore no good Friends, and there the worst of Enemies) to the English-Indian Trade; I thought fit to [ 10] make thereof a fifth Booke.

[ 20] [ 30] [ 40] [ 50] [ 60]

Notes

• Gen. ••.10.
• Gen. 11.28.
• Of his Reue∣nues and of all other things of this State, reade Captain Hawkins his Relations, who had better meanes and iudgement to know them. The Vnicornes are no other but the Rhi∣noceros.
• This Letter by M. Rogers was deliuered to my selfe.
• This is the ordinarie title that i•• giuen him by all strangers.
• Iesui••icall Ma∣riani••ie.
• Notable ex∣ample of A∣theisme.
• Ecbars iugling.
• Wiuely fidelity
• Right and 〈◊〉〈◊〉 about finding a Fountaine.
• Charitie of Moores.
• Ecbars pietie.
• Notable sen∣tence.
• Profligate Iust.
• Apophthegme▪
• The Kings ex∣ternal charity. Hee had added heere of the Kings respect to two-fold Daruises which you haue be∣fore in Sir T. Roe.
• The King likes not shifters of Religion.