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CHAP. X. Of the Caravansera's, and Government of the Caravans.
THE Caravansera's are the Eastern Inns, far different from ours; for they are neither so convenient, nor so handsom. They are built square, much like Cloysters, being usually but one Story high; for it is rare to see one of two Stories. A wide Gate brings ye into the Court; and in the midst of the Building, in the front, and upon the right and left hand, there is a Hall for Persons of the best Quality to keep together. On each side of the Hall are Lodgings for every man by himself. These Lodgings are rais'd all along the Court two or three Steps high, just behind which are the Stables, where many times it is as good lying as in the Chamber. Some will rather lye there in the Winter, because they are warm, and are roof'd as well as the Chambers. Right against the Head of every Horse there is a Nich with a Window into the Lodging-Chamber, out of which every man may see how his Horse is look'd after. There Niches are usually so large, that three men may lye in them; and there it is that the Servants usually dress their Victuals.
There are two forts of Inns. For some are endow'd; where you may be re∣ceiv'd for Charities sake; others, where you must pay for what you call for. There are none of the first, but between Buda and Constantinople. Nor is it lawful for any others to build such, but only the Mother and Sisters of the Grand Signor, or such Viziers, and Basha's as have been three times in Battel against the Christians, In these Inns, which are built out of Legacies, there is a very good allowance of Diet to Travellers, and at your departure you have nothing to do but to thank the Benefactor. But from Constantinople to Persia, there are none of those endow'd Inns; only such where you have nothing but bare Walls. It is for you to provide Utensils for your Kitchin, and a Bed to lye on: as for Provision, the people bring Lambs, Pullets, Butter, and Fruits in their feasons: or else you may buy it, provided before-hand by the Master of the House. There you also meet with Barley and Straw for the Horses, unless it be in some few places that I have been at upon the Road. In the Country you pay nothing for your Chambers; but in the Cities you pay something, though it be but a small matter. Usually the Caravans never go into the Towns, which are not able to contain so many People and Horses. When you come to your Quarters every one looks after his own Chamber, for there is no regard to Poor or Rich: sometimes out of Breeding, or out of Interest, an ordinary Tradesman will give way to a great Merchant; but no man is permitted to leave the Chamber which he has once made choice of. In the night the Inn-keeper shuts up his Gates, being answerable for all things that shall be lost; for which reason he keeps a Guard about the Inn.
As for the Persian Caravansera's, they are more commodious, and better built than those of Turkie, and at more reasonable distances, throughout almost all the Country. By which description of Inns it is easie to observe, that though these Caravansera's are not so commodious for the Rich as our European Inns, yet they are more convenient for the Poor, to whom they never refuse to give admittance: no person being oblig'd to eat or drink more than he pleases; but every one being allow'd to spend according to his Stock, without grumbling.
You may travel in Turkie or Persia, either with the Caravan, or else in company, ten or twelve together, or else alone with a Guide. The safest way is to go with the Caravan, though you are longer upon the Road, by reason of the slowness of their march, especially when the Caravans consist of Camels.
The Caravans are as it were great Convoys, which consist of a good number of Merchants, that meet at certain times and places, to put themselves into a con∣dition to defend themselves from Thieves, that are very rise in Troops in several desert places upon the Road. These Merchants choose among themselves a Caravan-Bashi, who orders them how they shall march, assigns the places of lodging at night, and who with the chief of the Caravan, is a kind of Judge of the differences that