The six voyages of John Baptista Tavernier, Baron of Aubonne through Turky, into Persia and the East-Indies, for the space of forty years : giving an account of the present state of those countries, viz. of the religion, government, customs, and commerce of every country, and the figures, weight, and value of the money currant all over Asia : to which is added A new description of the Seraglio / made English by J.P. ; added likewise, A voyage into the Indies, &c. by an English traveller, never before printed ; publish'd by Dr. Daniel Cox

TRAVELS IN INDIA. The Third Book.

CHAP. I. Of the particular Religion of the Mahometans in the East Indies.

THE diversity of Opinions among the Mahometans, does not consist in the different Expositions which they put upon the Alcoran; but in the contrariety of Belief which they receiv'd by Tradition from the first Successors of Mahomet. From thence there sprung two Sects, directly opposite: The one, which is call'd the Sect of the Sounnis, fol∣low'd by the Turks; and the other of the Chiais, which is adher'd to by the Persians. I will not enlarge my self upon these two Sects, that divide all Ma∣humetism; it being my design, only to tell you how the condition of that false Religion stands in the Empire of the Great Mogul, and in the Kingdoms of Gol∣conda and Visapour.

When Mahumetism was first brought into the Indies, there was an excess of pride, but no devotion among the Christians; and the Idolaters were an effe∣minate people, able to make little resistance; so that it was easie for the Ma∣humetns to subdue both the one and the other by force of Arms, which they did so advantageously, that many, as well Christians as Idolaters, embrac'd the Mahumetan Religion.

The Great Mogul, with all his Court, follows the Sect of the Sounnis; the King of Golconda, that of the Chiais. In the King of Visapour's Territories the Sounnis and Chiais are mingl'd together; which may be said also of the Court of the Great Mogul, in regard of the great numbers of Persians that flock thi∣ther to serve in his Armies. True it is, that though they abhor the Sounnis, yet they adhere to the Religion of the Prince; holding it lawful for the pre∣servation of their Estates to conceal their belief. As for what concerns the King∣dom of Golconda, Koutoub-Cha, the present King, very zealously maintains the Law of the Chiais; in regard the Grandees of his Court are almost all Per∣sians.

Aureng-zeb testifies above all things an extraordinary devotion for the Sect of the Sounnis; of which he is so zealous an observer, that he surpasses all his Predecessors in outward profession; which was the Cloak under which he usurp'd the Crown. When he took possession of his Throne, he gave it out that he did it only out of a design to cause the Law of Mahomet to be more strictly observ'd, which had been very much neglected in the Reign of Sha∣jehan his Father, and Gehan-guir his Grandfather; and to shew himself more zealous to the Law, he turn'd Faquir or Dervich, that is, poor Volunteer; and

under that false pretence of Piety he cunningly made way to the Empire. And indeed though he has a great many Persians under his pay, yet he will not permit them to keep holy the day consecrated to the memory of Hosen and Heussin, the two Sons of Ali, who were put to death by the Sounnis; besides that they, to please him, are willing enough to conform.

CHAP. II. Of the Faquirs, or poor Mahometan Volunteers in the East Indies.

THey reckon that there are in the Indies eight hundred thousand Faquirs, and twelve hundred thousand Idolaters; which is a prodigious Number. They are all of them Vagabonds, and lazy Drones, that dazle the eyes of the people with a false zeal, and make them believe that whatever comes out of their mouths is an Oracle.

There are several sorts of Mahometan Faquirs. The one sort go almost naked, like the Idolatrous Faquirs, having no certain abode in the world, but giving themselves up to all manner of uncleanness. There are others whose Garments are of so many different pieces and colours, that a man can hardly tell of what they are made. These Garments reach down to the half Leg, and hide the rags that are underneath. They go generally in Troops; and have their Superiour of the Gang, who is known by his Garment, which is generally poorer, and consists of more patches than the other. Besides, that he draws after him a great Iron Chain, which is ty'd to his Leg, and is about two Ells long, and proportionably thick. When he says his prayers, he does it with a loud voice, and ratling his Chain all the while, which is accompany'd with an affected gra∣vity, that draws the Veneration of the people. In the mean time the people prepare Dinner for him and his company, in the place where he takes up his stand, which is usually in some street or publick place. There he causes his Disciples to spread certain Carpets, where he sets himself down to give audi∣ence to the people. On the other side, the Disciples go about publishing through the Country the vertues of their Master, and the favours he receives from God, who reveals his most important secrets to him, and gives him power to relieve persons in affliction by his counsel. The people, who give credit to him, and believe him to be a holy man, approach him with a great devotion, and when they come near him, they pull off their Shoes, and prostrate them∣selves to kiss his feet. Then the Faquir, to shew his humility reaches out his hand to kiss; that done, he causes them that come to consult him, to sit down by him, and hears every one apart. They boast themselves to have a prophetick Spirit; and above all to teach barren women a way how to have Children, and to be belov'd by whom they please.

There are some of these Faquirs who have above two hundred Disciples, or more, which they assemble together by the sound of a Horn, or the Beat of a Drum. When they travel, they have their Standard, Lances, and other Wea∣pons which they pitch in the ground, near to their Master, when he reposes in any place.

The third sort of East Indian Faquirs, are those that being born of poor Pa∣rents, and desirous to understand the Law, to the end they may become Moulla's or Doctors, retire to the Mosquees, where they live upon the Alms which is given them. They employ all their time in reading the Alooran, which they get by heart; and if they can but add to that study the knowledg of some natural things, and an exemplary life withall, they come to be chief of the Mos∣quees, and to the dignity of Moullahs, and Judges of the Law. Those Faquirs have their Wives; and some, out of their great zeal to imitate Mahomet, have three or four; thinking they do God great service in begetting many Children to be followers of their Laws.

CHAP. III. Of the Religion of the Gentiles, or Idolatrous Indians.

THe Idolaters among the Indians are so numerous, that they are reckon'd to be five or six for one Mahometan. It seems a wonderful thing, that such a prodigious multitude of men should be cow'd by a handful, and bow so easily under the yoak of the Mahometan Princes. But that wonder well may cease, when we consider that those Idolaters are not in union among themselves; for Superstition has introduc'd such a diversity of Opinions and Customs, that they can never agree one with another. An Idolater will not eat Bread nor drink Water in the House of any one that is not of his Caste; though it be more noble, and much more superior to his own. Yet they all eat and drink in the Bramins Houses, which are open to all the world. A Caste a∣mong the Idolaters, is very near the same thing which was anciently call'd a Tribe among the Jews. And though it be vulgarly believ'd, that there are se∣venty-two Castes, yet I have been inform'd by some of their most ingenuous Priests, that they may be all reduc'd into four principal ones, from whence all the rest drew their Original.

The first Caste is that of the Brammins, who are the Successors of the an∣cient Brachmans, or Indian Philosophers, that study'd Astrology. You may also meet with some of their ancient Books, in reading whereof the Brammins spend all their time; and are so vers'd in their observations, that they never fail a minute in the Eclipses of the Sun and Moon. And to preserve this knowledg among themselves, they have a kind of University, in a City which is call'd Benarez, where they make all their Exercises in Astrology, and where they have Doctors that expound their Law, which they very strictly observe. But in regard they are so great a number, and cannot all come to study at that Uni∣versity, they are all very ignorant, and consequently very superstitious; those that go for the most refin'd Wits, being the greatest Sorcerers.

The second Caste is that of the Raspoutes or Ketris, that is to say, Warriors and warlike people. These are the only Idolatrous Indians that have any cou∣rage to signalize themselves in War. All the Raja's that I have so oft'n men∣tion'd, are of this Caste. These are so many petty Kings, whom their disunion has render'd Tributary to the Great Mogul. But in regard that the greatest part of them are in his service, they are highly recompenc'd by the large Salaries they receive for the small Tribute which they pay. These Raja's, and the Raspoutes their Subjects, are the chiefest support of the Dominions of the Great Mogul; for indeed the Raja's Jesseing and Jessomseing were those that lifted up Aureng∣zeb to the Throne. But you must take notice, that all of this second Caste are not Warriors; for they are the Raspoutes only that go to War, and are all Horsemen. But for the Ketris, they are degenerated from their Ancestors, and of Soldiers are become Merchants.

The third Caste is that of the Bannians, who are altogether addicted to Trade; of whom some are Sheraffs or Bankers, others broakers, employ'd be∣tween Merchant and Merchant for buying and selling. Those of this Caste are so subtil and nimble in Trade, that as I have said before, the Jews may be their Prentices. They accustom their Children betimes to fly idleness. And instead of suffering them to lose their time in playing in the streets, as we generally do, they teach them Arithmetick; which they are so perfect at, that without making use either of Pen and Ink, or Counters, but only of their memories, they will in a moment cast up the most difficult account that can be imagin'd. They always live with their Fathers, who instruct them in Trade, and do nothing but what they shew them. If any man in the heat of passion chafe at 'em, they hear him patiently without making any reply, and parting coldly from him, will not see him again in three or four days, when they think his passion may be over. They never eat any thing that has life; nay they would rather dye,

than kill the smallest Animal or Vermin that crawls; being in that point above all things the most zealous Observers of the Law. They never fight, nor go to War; neither will they eat or drink in the House of a Raspoute, because they kill the Victuals they eat, all but Cows, which they never touch.

The fourth Caste is that of the Charados or Soudras; who go to War as well as the Raspoutes, but with this difference, that the Raspoutes serve on Horse∣back, and the Charados on Foot. Both of them take it for an Honour to dye in Battel; and let him be Horse or Foot, that Soldier is accounted infamous that retreats in Fight; 'tis an eternal blot in his Family. Upon which subject I will tell you a story. A Soldier who was passionately in love with his Wife, and reciprocally belov'd by her, had fled from the fight, not so much out of any fear of death, as out of a consideration of the grief which it would oc∣casion to his Wife, should he leave her a Widow. When she knew the reason of his flight, as soon as he came to the door, she shut it against him, and or∣der'd him to be told, that she could never acknowledge that man for a Husband, who had preferr'd the Love of a Woman before his Honour; that she did not desire to see him any more, as being a stain to the Reputation of her Family; and that she would endeavour to teach her Children to have more courage than their Father. The Wife continuing firm to her resolution, the Husband to re∣gain his Honour and her affection, return'd to the Army, where he so behav'd himself, that he became famous; and having highly made amends for his Cow∣ardise, the door of his House was again set open, and his Wife receiv'd him with her former kindness.

The rest of the Natives, that are not reckon'd in the number of these Castes, are call'd Pauzecour. These are such as employ themselves in Handicraft Trades; among which there is no other distinction, but according to the Trades which they follow from Father to Son. So that a Taylor cannot prefer his Son, but only in his own Calling, though he be never so rich; nor marry either Son or Daughter, but to one of his own Craft. By the same rule, when a Taylor dies, all those of his own Trade accompany the Corps to the place where it is burnt: and the same practise is observ'd in all other Trades.

Among the particular Castes, there is one that goes by the name of Alecors, whose employment is only to clean Houses; for which every Family pays him something once a month, according to their proportion and quality. If a person of quality in the Indies keeps fifty Servants, let him be Mahometan or Idola∣ter, there is not one of them will take a Besome in his hand to sweep the House; for he would think himself affronted, it being one of the greatest scorns you can put upon an Indian, to call him Alacor. Besides, every one of those Servants knows his business; whether it be to carry the pot of Water to drink by the way, or to give his Master his Pipe of Tobacco when he calls for it; so that if the Master should bid one to do that which the other was ap∣pointed to do, that Servant would stand like a Statue, and never make him any answer. But for the Slaves, they are oblig'd to do what ever the Master commands them. These Alacors having no other business but only to make clean the Houses, eat the scraps of all the other Castes; and so without scruple feed upon any thing. There are none but those of this Tribe make use of Asses, to carry away the filth of the Houses into the Feilds; for which reason none of the rest of the Indians will so much as touch that Animal; which is quite o∣therwise in Persia, as well for carriage, as to ride upon. Moreover, there are none of the other Indians, except the Alacors that will eat Pig.

CHAP. IV. Of the Kings and Idolatrous Princes of Asia.

THE chiefest of the Idolatrous Kings of Asia, are the King of Aracan, the King of Pegu, the King of Siam, the King of Cochinchina, and the King of Tun∣quin. As for the King of China, we know that he was an Idolater before the Tartars invaded his Dominions. But since that, we know not what to report of certainty, in regard that the Tartars who are now Masters of the Country, are neither Idolaters nor Mahometans, but rather both together. In the Islands, the King of Japon, the King of Ceylan, and some petty Kings of the Molucoa Islands are Idolaters; as are all the Raja's as well in the Empire of the Great Mogul, as in the neighbouring Kingdoms of Visapour and Golconda. In a word, all the meaner sort of people, as well in the Territories of the Great Mogul, Kings of Golconda and Visapour, as in the Isles of Achan, Java, and Macassar, though their Kings are Mahumetans, are all themselves Idolaters.

Some fifty years ago, one of the Kings of Ceylan became a Christian, and was baptiz'd by the name of John, being call'd before the Emperor Priapen∣der. But as soon as he had embrac'd the Christian Faith, the Princes and Priests of the Country set up another King in his room. He endeavour'd all he could to bring his people to follow his example; to which purpose he assign'd to the Father Jesuits, twelve large Villages about Colombo, for the bringing up the youth of the Country in their Colledges; to the end that they being well instructed, might instruct others. For the King made it plain to the Jesuits, that it was impossible for them so well to understand the Language of the Country, as to be able to preach to the Natives. Besides, that they found the ingenuities of the Youth of Ceylan so quick and apprehensive, that they learnt more La∣tin, Philosophy, and other Sciences in six months, than the Europeans learnt in a year; and that they put such subtle Questions to their Masters, as were be∣yond imagination.

Some years after the King had profess'd Christianity, a witty man of the Island of Ceylan, and a good natural Philosopher, whose name was Alegamma Motiar, or the Master of the Philosophers, after he had convers'd with the Jesuits and other Religious persons, was inspir'd to turn Christian. Thereupon he went to the Jesuits, and told them, that he desir'd to be a Christian; but withall he was very earnest to know what Jesus Christ had done, and lest in writing. They gave him the New Testament, which he set himself to read with that heed and study, that in less than six months there was hardly a passage which he could not repeat. After that he again testifi'd to the Jesuits and o∣ther Religious persons, that he had a great desire to turn Christian, in regard he found their Religion to be such as Jesus Christ had taught; but only he won∣der'd that they themselves did not follow his example. For that he could ne∣ver find by his reading, that Jesus Christ ever took any money of any body; but that they took all they could get, and never baptiz'd nor buri'd unless they were well paid. But though he started the Question, he was baptiz'd, and afterwards became a sedulous converter of others.

CHAP. V. What the Idolaters believe touching a Divinity.

THough the Idolatrous Indians attribute to the Creature, as to Cows, Apes, and several Monsters, those Divine Honours which are only due to the true Deity; yet they acknowledg one only Infinite God, Almighty, and only Wise, the Creator of Heaven and Earth, who fills all places with his presence. They call him in some places Permesser, in others Peremael, and Westnon among the Bramins that inhabit the Coast of Cormandel. It may be, because they have heard that the Circle is the most perfect of all Figures, therefore it is that they say God is of an Oval Figure; for they have in all their Pagods an Oval Flintstone, which they fetch from Ganges, and worship as a God. They are so obstinately wedded to this foolish imagination, that the wisest among the Bra∣mins will not so much as hear any argument to the contrary. So that it is no wonder that a people led by such blind Guides, should fall into such Abysses of Idolatry. There is one Tribe so superstitious, in reference to that Article, that they carry those Oval Flints about their Necks, and thump them against their Breasts, when they are at their devotions. In this dark and lamentable mist of Ignorance, these Idolaters make their Gods to be born like men, and assign them Wives, imagining that theirs are the pleasures of men. Thus they take their Ram for a great Deity, in regard of the Miracles which they believe he wrought while he liv'd upon Earth. Ram was the Son of a potent Raja, who was call'd by the name of Deseret, and the most vertuous of all his Children, which he had by two lawful Wives. He was particularly belov'd by his Father, who design'd him to be his Successor. But the Mother of Ram being dead, the Raja's other Wife, who had her Husband entirely at her beck, prevail'd with him to exterminate Ram and his Brother Lokeman from his House, and all his Territories; upon whose exclusion the Son of that Wife was declar'd the Raja's Successor. As the two Brothers were about to be gone, Ram's Wife Sita, of whom he went to take his leave, and whom the Idolaters worship as a Goddess, beg'd of him that she might not leave him, having made a reso∣lution never to forsake him; whereupon they all three went together to seek their fortunes. They were not very successful at first; for as they pass'd through a Wood, Ram being in pursuit of a Bird, stray'd from the Company, and was missing a long time; insomuch that Sita fearing that some disaster was befall'n him; besought Lokeman to look after him. He excus'd himself at first, by rea∣son that Ram had oblig'd him never to leave Sita alone, foreseeing by a Pro∣phetick Spirit what would befall her, should she be left to her self. Never∣theless Lokeman being over perswaded by the prayers of his fair Sister, went to seek for Ram his Brother; but in the mean time Rhevan another of the I∣dolaters Gods, appear'd to Sita in the shape of a Faquir, and beg'd an Alms of her. Now Ram had order'd Sita, that she should not stir out of the place where he left her; which Rhevan well knowing, would not receive the Alms which Sita presented him, unless she would remove to another place; which when Sita had done, either out of negligence or forgetfulness, Rhevan seiz'd upon her, and carry'd her into the thick of the Wood, where his Train stay'd for him. Ram at his return missing Sita, fell into a swoon for greif, but be∣ing brought again to himself by his Brother Lokeman, they two immediately went together in search of Sita, who was so dearly belov'd by her Husband.

When the Bramins repeat this Rape of their Goddess, they do it with tears in their eyes, and great demonstrations of sorrow; adding upon this subject, an infinite company of Fables more ridiculous, to shew the great courage of Ram in pursuit of the Ravisher. They employ'd all Creatures living upon the discovery; but none of them had the luck to succeed, only the Monkey call'd Harman. He cross'd over the Sea at one Leap, and coming into Rhevans Gar∣dens, found Sita in the extremity of affliction; and very much surpriz'd to hear

an Ape speak to her in her Husbands behalf. At first she would not give any credit to such an Embassador; but the Ape, to shew that his Commission was authentick, presents her with a Ring which her Husband had giv'n her, and that she had left behind her among her Furniture. She could hardly however believe so great a Miracle, as that Ram her Husband should make a Beast speak, to bring her the news of his health, and to testifie, as he did, the marks of his affection. But the Ape Harman wrought Miracles himself, for being taken for a Spy by some of Rhevans Servants, who therefore would have burnt him, he made use of the fire which they had prepar'd to burn him, to set Rhevans Pa∣lace on fire, which he almost consum'd to the ground, with all the tatters and rags which were ty'd to his tail and his body. When the Ape had thus done, the better to escape out of Rhevans hands, he took the same way he came, and repassing the Sea again at one jump, he came and gave Ram an account of his adventures; and told him in what a sorrowful condition he had found Sita, who did nothing but mourn by reason of her absence from her Husband. Ram touch'd with his Wives affection, resolv'd to deliver her out of Rhevans hands, whatever it cost him; whereupon he rais'd Forces, and being guided by the Ape, at length he came to Rhevans Palace, that still smoak'd, the fire had been so great; and by reason that Rhevans Servants were dispers'd, Ram had an easie opportunity to see his belov'd Sita again; whom Rhevan aban∣don'd wholly to him, flying for fear to the Mountains. Ram and Sita were infinitely overjoy'd at their coming together again, and return'd very great Honours to Harman, who had done him so eminent service.

As for Rhevan, he spent all the rest of his days like a poor Faquir, seeing his Country ruin'd by Ram's Troops, who was resolv'd to be reveng'd for the injury which he had receiv'd; and from this Rhevan it was, from whence that infinite multitude of Faquirs, that swarm all over India, first took their Ori∣ginal.

CHAP. VI. Of the Faquirs, or poor Volunteers among the Indians, and of their Pennances.

THE Original of the Faquirs, as I said before, came from that Rhevan, whom Ram dispoil'd of his Kingdom; at which he conceiv'd such an un∣speakable sorrow, that he resolv'd to lead a Vagabond life, and to wander about the world, poor, stript of all, and in a manner quite naked. He found a now to follow him in a course of life that gives them so much liberty. For being worship'd as Saints, they have in their hands all opportunities of doing evil.

These Faquirs wander generally in Troops, every one of which has a Supe∣rior. And in regard they are quite naked, Winter and Summer lying upon the hard ground, when it is cold, the young Faquirs, and others that are most de∣vout, go in the afternoon to seek for the dung of Cows and other Creatures, of which they make their fires. They rarely burn Wood, for fear of killing any living Animal which is wont to breed in it; and therefore the Wood where∣with they burn their dead, is only such as has floated long in the Water, which never breeds any sort of living Creature. The young Faquirs having got toge∣ther a good quantity of dung, mix'd with dry turf, make several fires, accor∣ding to the bigness of the Company; round about every one of which the Fa∣quirs seat themselves. When they grow sleepy, they lay themselves upon the ground, spreading the Ashes abroad, which serve them for a Mattress; without any other Canopy than that of Heaven.

As for the Faquirs that do Pennance, when they are laid down in the same posture as you see them in the day time, they kindle a good fire on each side of them, for otherwise they would not be able to endure the cold. The rich

Idolaters account themselves happy, and their Houses to be fill'd with the benedictions of Heaven, when they have any of these Faquirs for their Guests, which the more austere they are, the more they honour: and it is the glory of the Troop to have one among them that does some considerable act of Pe∣nance.

These Crews of Faquirs many time joyn together to go in Pilgrimage to the Principal Pagods, and publick Washings, which they use upon certain days in the year in the River Ganges, whereof they make the chiefest account; as also in that which separates the Territories of the Portugals of Goa from the Dominions of the King of Vssapour. Some of the most austere Faquirs live in little pitti∣ful Huts neer their Pagods, where they have once in four and twenty hours some∣thing to eat bestow'd upon them for God's sake. The Tree whereof I have giv'n the description, is of, the same sort as that which grows neer Gomron, which I have describ'd in my Persian Relations. The Franks call it the Bannians-Tree, because in those places where those Trees grow, the Idolaters always take up their quar∣ters, and dress their victuals under them. They have those Trees in great re∣verence, and oft-times build their Pagods either under or very neer them. That which the Reader sees here describ'd, grows at Surat; in the trunk whereof, which is hollow, is the figure of a Monster, representing the face of a deform'd Woman, which they say was the first Woman, whose name was Mamaniva; thi∣ther great numbers of Idolaters every day resort: neer to which there is some Bramin or other always appointed to be ready to say Prayers, and receive the Alms of Rice, Millet, and other Grains which the charitable bestow upon them. The Bramin marks the forhead of all, both Men and Women, that come to pray in the Pagod, with a kind of Vermillion, wherewith he also besmears the Idol; for being thus mark'd, they believe the evil Spirit cannot hurt them, as being then under the protection of their God.

Number I, is that part where the Bramins paint their Idols; such as Mama∣niva, Sita, Madedina, and others; whereof they have a great number.

Numb. 2, is the figure of Mamaniva, which is in the Pagod.

Numb. 3, is another Pagod neer the former. There stands a Cow at the door, and within stands the figure of their God Ram.

Numb. 4, is another Pagod, into which the Faquirs, that do Penance, often re∣tire.

Numb. 5, is another Pagod dedicated to Ram.

Numb. 6, is a Hut into which a Faquir makes his retirement several times a year, there being but one hole to let in the light. He stays there according to the height of his devotion, sometimes nine or ten days together, without either eat∣ing or drinking; a thing which I could not have believ'd, had I not seen it. My curiosity carri'd me to see one of those Penitents, with the President of the Dutch-Company, who set a Spy to watch night and day whether any body brought him any victuals. But he could not discover any relief the Faquir had, all the while fitting upon his Bum like our Taylors, never changing his posture above seven days together, not being able to hold out any longer, by reason that the heat and stench of the Lamp was ready to stifle him. Their other sorts of Penance out-doing this, might be thought incredible, were there not so many thousand witnesses thereof.

Numb. 7, is the figure of another Penitentiary, over whose head several years have past; and yet he never slept day nor night. When he finds himself sleepy, he hangs the weight of the upper part of his body upon a double-rope that is fasten'd to one of the boughs of the Tree; and by the continuance of this posture, which is very strange and painful, there falls a humour into their legs that swells them very much.

Numb. 8, is the figure of two postures of two doing Penance; who, as long as they live, carry their arms above their heads in that manner; which cau∣ses certain Carnosities to breed in the joynts, that they can never bring them down again. Their hair grows down to their wasts, and their nails are as long as their fingers. Night and Day, Winter and Summer they go always stark naked in the same posture, expos'd to the heat and rain, and the stinging of the Flies; from which they have not the use of their hands to rid themselves. In other

[illustration]

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The Figure of a Penitent as they are represented in little under the Ba∣nians great Tree.

necessities they have other Faquirs in their company always ready to assist them.

Numb. 9, is the posture of another Penitent, who every day for several hours stands upon one foot, holding a Chasing-dish in his hand, into which he pours In∣cense, as an Offering to his God, fixing his eyes all the while upon the Sun.

Numb. 10 and 11, are the figures of two other Penitents sitting with their hands rais'd above their heads in the air.

Numb. 12, is the posture wherein the Penitents sleep, without ever resting their arms; which is certainly one of the greatest torments the body of man can suffer.

Numb. 13, is the posture of a Penitent, whose arms, through weakness, hang flagging down upon his shoulders, being dry'd up for want of nourish∣ment.

There are an infinite number of other Penitents; some who in a posture quite contrary to the motion and frame of nature, keep their eys always turn'd toward the Sun. Others who fix their eyes perpetually upon the ground, never so much as speaking one word, or looking any person in the face. And indeed there is such an infinite variety of them, that would render the farther discourse of them more then tedious.

True it is, that I have hid those parts which modesty will not suffer to be ex∣pos'd to view. But they both in City and Countrey go all as naked as they came out of their Mothers wombs; and though the Women approach them to take them by the fingers-ends, and to kiss those parts which modesty forbids to name; yet shall you not observe in them any motion of sensuality; rather quite contrary, seeing them never to look upon any person, but rowling their eyes in a most fright∣ful manner, you would believe them in an extasie.

CHAP. VII. Of the Idolaters belief touching the estate of the Soul after death.

'TIS an Article of the Idolaters Faith, that the Souls of Men departing out of the body, are presented to God; who according to the lives which they lead, orders them another body to inhabit. So that one and the same person is born several times into the World. And that as for the Souls of wicked and vi∣cious persons, God disposes them into the bodies of contempt'ble Beasts, such as Asses, Dogs, Cats, and the like; to do Penance for their crimes in those infamous Prisons. But they believe that those Souls that enter into Cows are happy; pre∣suming that there is a kind of divinity in those creatures. For if a man dye with a Cows-tail in his hand, they say it is enough to render him happy in the other World.

The Idolaters believing thus the transmigration of the Souls of men into the bodies of other creatures, they abhor to kill any creature whatever, for fear they should be guilty of the death of some of their kindred or friends doing Penance in those bodies.

If the Men in their life-time are famous for their vertuous deeds, they hold that their Souls pass into the bodies of some Potent Raja's: where they enjoy the pleasures of this life in those bodies, as the reward of those good works which they did.

This is the reason why the Faquirs put themselves to such horrible Penances. But because that all are not able to endure so much torment in this World, they labour to supply the defect of that cruel Penance by good works. And besides, they charge their Heirs in their Wills to give Alms to the Bramins, to the end that by the powerful effect of their Prayers, their God may assign them the body of some Noble Personage.

In January 1661, the Broaker belonging to the Holland-Company, whose name was Mondas-Parek, dy'd at Surat. He was a rich Man, and very charitable, giving his Alms very liberally as well to the Christians as to the Idolaters; the Capu∣chins at Surat living one part of the year upon the Rice, Butter and Pulse which he sent them. This Banian was not sick above four or five days; during all which time, and for eight days more after he was dead, his Brothers distributed nine or ten-thousand Roupies; and in the burning of his body they mix'd Sandal-wood, and Lignum-Aloes, with the ordinary wood, believing that by that means the Soul of their Brother transmigrating into another body, he would come to be some great Lord in another Countrey. There are some that are such fools that they bury their treasure in their life-time, as it is the usual custom of all the rich Men in the Kingdom of Asen; to the end that if they should be condemn'd to the body of some poor miserable person, they might have wherewithal to sup∣ply their necessities. I remember one day that I bought in India an Agate-Cup half a foot high; he that sold it me, assur'd me that it had been buried under ground above 40 years, and that he kept it to serve his occasions after death; but that it was to him a thing indifferent whether he buried his Cup or his Mo∣ney. In my last Voyage I bought of one of these Idolaters sixty-two Diamonds, of about six grains a-piece; and while I was wondring to see so fair a parcel, he told me I needed not to wonder; for he had been fifty years getting them to∣gether, to serve him after his death, but that having occasion for Money, he was forc'd to part with them. This buried treasure stood the Raja Seva-Gi in great stead, when he took Arms against the Great Mogul, and the King of Visapour. For that Raja having taken Callian Biondi, a small City in the Kingdom of Visa∣pour, by the advice of the Bramins, who assur'd him he should find great store of treasure buri'd, caus'd the greatest part thereof to be demolish'd; and found so much wealth, as to maintain his Army, which was above thirty-thousand Men. It is impossible to convince these poor Idolaters of their errors; in regard they will hear no reason, but submit themselves altogether to their old forms and cu∣stoms.

CHAP. VIII. Of the Custom among the Idolaters to burn the Bodies of their Dead.

THE custom of burning the Bodies of the dead is very ancient among the Gentiles; which Ceremony they most commonly perform by the banks of Rivers, where they wash the dead; which is the last purgation of them from their sins. Nay, their superstition is so great sometimes, that they will carry the sick person, death approaching, to the bank of some River or Pond, and put his feet in the water. As nature fails, they dip him deeper and deeper, till at length they hold him expiring up to the chin in the River: to the end that at the same time that the Soul departs out of the Body, both Body and Soul may be cleans'd from all defilement; and then plunging the newly dead Body over head and ears, they bring it out, and burn it in the place appointed; which is generally neer some Pa∣god. There are some persons that make it their business to fetch Wood, and agree what they shall have for their pains. An Idolater being dead, all those of his Caste or Tribe assemble together at the House of the deceas'd, and laying the Body upon a Beer cover'd with clean fine Linnen according to his Quality and Estate, they follow the Beer, which is carri'd by such as are appointed for that purpose to the place where the Body is to be burn'd. As they go along they sing certain Prayers to their God, pronouncing several times the words Ram, Ram, while another going before the Beer, sounds a little Bell, to advertize the living to pray for the dead. The Body being set down by the bank of the River or Pond, they first plunge it into the water, and then they burn it. According to the qua∣lity of the deceas'd they also mingle with the ordinary wood Sandal-wood, and

other Sweet-woods. But the Idolaters do not only burn the Bodies of the dead, but the Bodies of the living. They scruple to kill a serpent, or a louse, but ac∣count it a meritorious thing to burn a living Wife with the Body of the deceas'd Husband.

CHAP. X. How the Wives are burnt in India with the Bodies of their deceas'd Husbands.

IT is also an ancient custom among the Indians, that the Husband happening to dye, the Wife can never marry again. So that as soon as the Man is dead, the Wife retires to bewail her Husband; some days after that, they shave off her hair; she lays aside all the ornaments of her apparel; she takes off from her arms and legs the Bracelets which her Husband put on when he espous'd her, in token of her submission, and her being chain'd to him: and all the rest of her life she lives slighted and despis'd, and in a worse condition than a Slave in the very House where she was Mistress before. This unfortunate condition causes them to hate life, so that they rather choose to be buri'd alive with the body of their deceas'd Husbands, then to live the scorn and contempt of all the World. Besides that, the Bramins make them believe, that in dying after that manner, they shall re∣vive again with him in another World, with more honour and more advantages than they enjoy'd before. These are the motives that perswade the Women to burn with their Husbands; besides that, the Priests flatter them with a hope, that while they are in the midst of the flames, before they expire, Ram will appear, and reveal wonderful visions to them; and that after their Souls have transmigrated into various Bodies, they shall at length obtain a high degree of Honour to eternity.

However, there is no Woman that can burn with her Husband's body, till she has the leave of the Governor of the place where she inhabits, who being a Ma∣humetan, and abhorring that execrable custom of Self-murder, is very shy to per∣mit them. Besides, there are none but Widows that have no children, that lye under the reproach that forces them to violent death. For as for the Widows that have children, they are by no means permitted to burn themselves; but quite the contrary, they are commanded to live for the education of the chil∣dren. Those Women whom the Governour will not permit to burn themselves, spend the rest of their lives in doing Penance, and performing works of Charity. Some make it their business to sit upon the Road to boyl certain Pulse in water, and to give the liquor to Travellers to drink. Others sit with fire always ready for them to light their Tobacco. Others make vows to eat nothing but the un∣digested grains which they find in Cow-dung.

The Governour finding no perswasions will alter the Woman's resolution, but more especially perceiving by the sign which his Secretary makes him, that he has receiv'd the Coin, in a surly manner gives the Woman leave, bidding the Devil take her and all her kindred.

When they have got this leave, their Musick begins to strike up, and away they ding to the House of the deceas'd, with Drums beating, and Flutes playing before them; and in that manner they accompany the person that is to be burnt, to the place appointed. All the kindred and friends of the Widow that is to dye, come to her, and congratulate her for the happiness she is to enjoy in the other World: and for the honour which the Caste she is of receives by her generous resolution, she dresses her self as she were going to be marri'd, and she is conducted in tri∣umph to the place of execution. For the noise is loud of Musical Instruments, and Womens Voices, that follow her singing Songs in honour of the miserable creature that is going to dye. The Bramins that accompany her, exhort her to give publick testimonies of her constancy and courage: and many of our Europeans

are of opinion, that to take away the fears of death, which naturally terrifies hu∣manity, the Priests do give her a certain Beverage to stupify and disorder the senses, which takes from her all apprehension of her preparations for death. 'Tis for the Bramins interest that the poor miserable creatures should continue in their resolutions; for all their Bracelets as well about their legs as their arms, the Pen∣dents in their ears; their Rings sometimes of Gold, sometimes of Silver; (for the poor wear only Copper and Tin,) all these belong to the Bramins, who rake for them among the ashes when the party is burn'd.

I have seen Women burnt after three several manners, according to the differ∣rence of the Countrey. In the Kingdom of Guzerat, as far as Agra and Dehli, they set up a little Hut about twelve foot square upon the bank of a Pond or River. 'Tis made of Reeds, and all sorts of small Wood, with which they min∣gle certain pots of Oil and other Drugs to make it burn more vehemently. The Woman is plac'd in the middle of the Hut, in a half-lying-down posture, leaning her head upon a kind of a wooden Bolster and resting her back against a Pillar, to which the Bramin tyes her about the middle, for fear she should run away when she feels the fire. In this posture she holds the body of her deceas'd Hus∣band upon her knees, chewing Betlé all the while: and when she has continu'd in this posture about half an hour, the Bramin goes out, and the Woman bids them set fire to the Hut; which is immediately done by the Bramins, and the kindred and friends of the Woman; who also cast several pots of Oil into the fire, to put the Woman the sooner out of her pain. After the Woman is burnt, the Bramins search the ashes for all her Bracelets, Pendants and Rings, whether Gold, Silver, Copper or Tin, which is all free booty to themselves.

In Bengala they burn the Women after another fashion. In that Countrey a Woman must be very poor that does not accompany the Body of her deceas'd Husband to the Ganges to wash his Body, and to be wash'd her self before she is burnt. I have seen dead Carkasses brought to the Ganges above twenty days journey off from the place, and smelt 'em to boot; for the scent of them has been intollerably noysom. There was one that came from the Northern Moun∣tains neer the Frontiers of the Kingdom of Boutan, with the body of her Hus∣band carri'd in a Waggon; she travell'd twenty days a-foot, and neither eat nor drank for 15 or 16 days together till she came to the Ganges, where after she had wash'd the body that stank abominably, and had afterwards wash'd her self, she was burnt with him with an admirable constancy. Before the Woman that is to be burnt, goes the Musick, consisting of Drums, Flutes and Hautboys, whom the Woman in her best Accoutrements follows, dancing up to the very Funeral-pile, upon which she gets up, and places her self as if she were sitting up in her Bed; and then they lay a-cross her the body of her Husband. When that is done, her kindred and friends, some bring her a Letter, some a piece of Callcut, another pieces of Silver or Copper, and desire her to deliver them to their Mother, or Brother, or some other Kinsman or Friend. When the Woman sees they have all done, she asks the Standers-by three times, if they have nothing more of ser∣vice to command her; if they make no answer, she ties up all she has got in a piece of Taffata, which she puts between her own belly, and the body of her Husband, bidding them to set fire to the Pile; which is presently done by the Bramins and her Kindred. I have observ'd, because there is scarcity of Wood in Bengala, that when these poor Creatures are half griddl'd, they cast their bodies into the Ganges, where the remains are devour'd by the Crocodiles.

I must not forget a wicked custom practis'd by the Idolaters of Bengala. When a Woman is brought to bed, and the Child will not take to the Teat, they carry it out of the Village, and putting it into a Linnen Cloth, which they fast'n by the four Corners to the Boughs of a Tree, they there leave it from morning till evening. By this means the poor Infant is expos'd to be tormented by the Crows, insomuch that there are some who have their eyes pickt out of their heads: which is the reason that in Bengala you shall see many of these Ido∣laters that have but one eye, and some that have lost both. In the evening they fetch the child away, to try whether he will suck the next night; and if he still refuse the teat, they carry him again to the same place next morning; which they do for three days together; after which, if the Infant after that refuses to suck, they

believe him to be a Devil, and throw him into Ganges, or any the next Pond or River. In the places where the Apes breed, these poor Infants are not so expos'd to the Crows; for where the Ape discovers a Nest of those Birds, he climbs the Tree, and throws the Nest one way, and the Eggs another. Some∣times some charitable people among the English, Hollanders, and Portugals, com∣passionating the misfortune of those Children, will take them away from the Tree, and give them good education.

All along the Coast of Coromandel, when the Women are to be burnt with their Husbands, they make a great hole in the ground nine or ten foot deep, and twenty-five or thirty foot square, into which they throw a great quantity of Wood and Drugs to make the fire burn more fiercely. When the fire is kindled, they set the body of the man upon the brink; and then presently up comes the Woman dancing and chewing Betlé; accompany'd by her Friends and Kindred, with Drums beating, and Flutes sounding. Then the Woman takes three turns round the hole, and every time she has gone the round, she kisses her Friends and Kindred. After the third time the Bramins cast the Carcass of her Husband into the flame; and the Woman standing with her back to the fire, is pusht in by the Bramins also, and tumbles backward. Then her Kindred and Friends cast Oil and other combustible Drugs upon the fire, to make it burn more vehemently, that the Bodies may be the sooner con∣sum'd.

In most places upon the Coast of Coromandel, the Women are not burnt with their deceas'd Husbands, but they are buried alive with them in holes which the Bramins make a foot deeper than the tallness of the man and wo∣man. Usually they chuse a Sandy place; so that when the man and woman are both let down together, all the Company with Baskets of Sand fill up the hole above half a foot higher than the surface of the ground, after which they jump and dance upon it, till they believe the woman to be stifl'd.

When some of the Idolaters upon the Coast of Coromandel are upon the point of death, their Friends do not carry them to the side of a River or Lake to cleanse their Souls, but they carry them to the fattest Cow they can find; and laying the sick party just behind the Cow, they lift up her Tail, and pro∣voke her to piss. If she piss, so that it falls upon the face of the sick party, all the Company are overjoy'd, saying, that his Soul is happy. But if the Cow do not piss, to wash the sick parties face, they burn him with a great deal of sadness. If a Cow be sick, the owner must be careful to lead her to a Pond or River; for should she dye at his House, the Bramins would fine him.

CHAP. X. Remarkable Stories of Women that have been burnt after their Husbands decease.

THE Raja of Vilou having lost his City and his life, through the loss of a Battel gain'd against him by the King of Visapour's General, he was extreamly lamented at Court. Eleven of his Wives also were no less concern'd for his death, and resolv'd to be burnt when his Body was burn'd. The General of Visapour's Army understanding their resolution, thought at first to divert them, by promising them all kind usage. But finding perswa∣sions would not prevail, he order'd them to be shut up in a Room. He who had the order, going to put it in execution, the Women in a rage told him, that 'twas to no purpose to keep them Prisoners, for if they might not have leave to do what they had resolv'd, in three hours there would not one of them be alive. The person entrusted, laugh'd at their threats; but the Keeper of those women opening the door at the end of the three hours, found them

all stretch'd out dead upon the place, without any mark in the world to be seen that they had any way hasten'd their own deaths.

Two of the most potent Raja's of India came to Agra in the year 1642, to do homage to Sha-jehan, who then reign'd; who not having acquitted them∣selves as they ought to have done, in the judgment of the Grand Master of the Kings Houshold, he told one of the Raja's one day, in the presence of the King, that they had not done well, to behave themselves in that manner toward so great a Monarch, as was the King his Master. The Raja looking upon himself to be a great King, and a great Prince, he and his Brother having brought along with them a Train of 15 or 16000 thousand Horse, was netl'd at the bold reproof which the Grand Master gave him, and drawing out his Dagger, slew him upon the place, in the presence of the King. The Grand Master falling at the feet of his own Brother, who stood close by him, he was going about to re∣venge his death, but was prevented by the Raja's Brother, who stab'd him, and laid him athwart his Brothers Body. The King, who beheld these two murthers one upon the neck of the other, retir'd into his Haram for fear. But presently the Omrahs and other people fell upon the Raja's, and cut 'em to pieces. The King incens'd at such an attempt committed in his House and in his presence, commanded the Raja's bodies to be thrown into the River; which their Troops that they had left about Agra understanding, threaten'd to enter the City and pillage it. But rather than hazard the City, the King was advis'd to deliver them the Bodies of their Princes. When they were to be burn'd, thirteen Women belonging to the two Raja's Houses, came dancing and leaping, and presently got upon the Funeral pile, holding one another by hands, and being presently after stifl'd with the smoak, fell together into the fire. Presently the Bramins threw great heaps of Wood, pots of Oil, and other combustible matter upon them, to dispatch them the sooner.

I observ'd a strange passage at Patna, being then with the Governour, a young Gentleman of about twenty-four years of age, in his own House. While I was with him, in came a young woman, very handsome, and not above two and and twenty years old, who desir'd leave of the Governour to be burnt with the Body of her deceas'd Husband. The Governour compassionating her youth and beauty, endeavour'd to divert her from her resolution; but finding he could not prevail, with a surly countenance, he ask'd her whether she understood what the torment of fire was, and whether she had ever burnt her fingers? No, no, answer'd she more stoutly than before, I do not fear fire, and to let you know as much, send for a lighted Torch hither. The Governour abominating her answer, in great passion bid her go to the Devil. Some young Lords that were with the Governour, desir'd him to try the woman, and to call for a Torch; which with much ado he did, and a lighted Torch was brought. So soon as the woman saw the lighted Torch coming, she ran to meet it, and held her hand in the flame, not altering her countenance in the least; still searing her arm along up to the very elbow, till her flesh look'd as if it had been broil'd; whereupon the Governour commanded her out of his sight.

A Bramin coming to Patna, and assembling all his Tribe together, told them, that they must give him two thousand Roupies, and twenty-seven Ells of Cali∣cut. To which the chief among them made him answer, that they were poor, and could not possibly raise such a sum. However he persisted in his demand, po∣sitively affirming to them, that he would stay there without eating or drink∣ing till they brought him the Money and the Cloath. With this resolution he climb'd a Tree, and setting in the fork between the boughs, remain'd there without eating or drinking for several days. The noise of this extrava∣gance coming to the ears of the Hollanders where we lay, we set Sentinels to watch whether it were true, that a man could set so long without victu∣als, which he did for thirty days together. The one and thirtieth day of such an extraordinary Fast, the Idolaters fearing to kill one of their Priests for want of granting him his demand, club'd together, and brought him his twenty-seven Ells of Calicut, and two thousand Roupies. So soon as the Bramin saw the Money and the Cloath, he came down from the Tree; and after he had upbraided those of his Tribe for want of Charity, he distributed all the Roupies

among the poor, reserving only five or six for himself. The Cloth he cut into little pieces, and gave away, keeping only to himself enough to cover his own nakedness; and having made this distribution, he disappear'd of a sudden, and no∣body knew what became of him, though diligent search was made after him.

When a Chinese lies at the point of death, all his Kindred and Friends gather about him, and ask him whether he intends to go; they tell him also, that if he want any thing, he need but only ask and have, let it be Gold, Silver, or a Woman. When they are dead they perform many Ceremonies at their Funerals, which consists chiefly in artificial fires, wherein the Chineses are the most expert in the world; so that he must be a very poor man that has no fire-works at his Funeral. Besides that, they put Money in a little Box, and bury it by the deceas'd; and leave good store of victuals upon the Grave, out of an opinion that they rise and eat. Which the Souldiers of Batavia observing, us'd to fill their Bellies at these Graves every time they walk'd their rounds. But when the Chineses perceiv'd it, they poyson'd the victuals to spoil the Dutchmens feast∣ing. The Townsmen of Batavia taking the Souldiers part, accus'd the Chi∣neses for poysoning several of the Dutch. But the Chineses pleaded, that if the Sol∣diers had over-eat themselves, or surfeted themselves upon what was left for the dead to eat, 'twas none of their fault; for that they did not leave their victuals for the Souldiers; and besides that, among all the multitudes which they had bu∣ried, they never had heard the least complaint before of any one that ever came by any harm by eating their food. Thus the business was hush'd over; nor did the Souldiers dare to pilfer any more.

CHAP. IX. Of the most celebrated Pagods of the Idolaters in India.

THE Indian Idolaters have a great number of Temples, small and great, which they call Pagods, where they pray to their Gods, and make their Offerings. But the poor people that live in the Woods and Mountains, and re∣mote from Towns, are contented only with some stone, whereon they make a rude kind of Nose, and paint it with some Vermilion colour, which serves all the whole neighbourhood to worship.

The four most celebrated Pagods, are Jagrenate, Banarous, Matura, and Tri∣peti.

Jagrenate is one of the mouths of Ganges, whereupon is built the Great Pa∣god, where the Arch Bramin, or chief Priest among the Idolaters keeps his residence. The great Idol that stands upon the Altar in the innermost part of the Pagod, has two Diamonds for his Eyes, and another that hangs about his neck, the least of those Diamonds weighing about forty Carats. About his Arms he wears Bracelets sometimes of Pearls, and sometimes of Rubies; and this magnificent Idol is call'd Resora. The Revenues of this Pagod are suffi∣cient to feed fifteen or twenty thousand Pilgrims every day; which is a num∣ber often seen there, that Pagod being the greatest place of devotion in all In∣dia. But you must take notice, that no Goldsmith is suffer'd to enter this Pagod, because that one of them being lock'd in all night long, stole a Diamond out of one of the Idols eyes. As he was about to go out, when the Pagod was open'd in the morning, he dy'd at the door; their God, as they affirm, re∣venging his own sacriledg. That which renders this Pagod, which is a large build∣ing, the most considerable in all India, is, because it is situated upon the Gan∣ges; the Idolaters believing that the waters of that River have a particular quality to cleanse them from their sins. That which makes it so rich (for it maintains above twenty thousand Cows) is the vast Alms that are continually bestow'd by so incredible a multitude as comes from all parts. Which Alms are not so much at the discretion of the Donor, as at the will of the chief

Priest, who before he gives them leave to shave and wash in Ganges, taxes them according to their quality, of which he has information. Thus he col∣lects vast sums, of which he makes little or no profit himself; all going to feed the poor, and the repair of the Pagod. The chief Bramin causes Victuals to be distributed to the Pilgrims every day; as Milk, Rice, Butter, and Wheat; but to the poor, who want wherewithall to cook it, they distribute their food ready dresst. In the morning they boil a quantity of Rice in Earth'n pots of different bigness; and at the hour when the Pilgrims come for their meat, the chief Bramin orders another Bramin to take a pot of boil'd Rice; this pot he lets fall; and if there be five, the pot breaks into five equal parts, and eve∣ry one takes his own share. And in the same manner he breaks it into more pieces, if there be more persons, to whom he is to distribute the food. Which is a thing very strange and worthy observation. They never boil twice in an Earthen pot; but in a Copper pot; nor have they any other Dishes, than only certain Leaves, which they fasten together, and a certain kind of a Bason, a∣bout a foot in compass, wherein they melt their Butter, and stir the Rice with the ends of their fingers when they eat. They have also a kind of a Shell, wherein they pour their melted Butter, which they will swallow down, as we do Sack.

Now for the description of a particular Idol which stands upon the Altar in the Pagod of Jagrenate: It is cover'd from the Shoulders downward with a great Mantle that hangs down upon the Altar. This Mantle is of Tissue of Gold or Silver, according to the Solemnities. At first it had neither feet nor hands; but after one of their Prophets was taken up into Heaven, while they were lamenting what to do for another, God sent them an Angel in the like∣ness of that Prophet, to the end they might continue their Veneration toward him. Now while this Angel was busie in making this Idol, the people grew so impatient, that they took him out of the Angels hands, and put him into the Pagod without hands or feet; but finding that the Idol appear'd in that manner too deformed, they made him hands and arms of those small Pearls which we call Ounce-Pearls. As for his feet, they are never seen, being hid un∣der his Cloak. There is no part op'n but his hands and feet; the head and body being of Sandel-wood; round about the Duomo, under which this Idol stands, being very high, from the bottom to the top, are only Niches fill'd with other Idols; the greatest part whereof represent most hideous Monsters, being all of different colours. On each side of this Pagod, there stands ano∣ther much less, where the Pilgrims make their lesser Offerings. And some that have in sickness, or upon business made any Vows to any Deity, bring thi∣ther the resemblance thereof in remembrance of the good which they have re∣ceiv'd. They rub this Idol every day with sweet Oils, that make it of a black colour. And at the right hand of this Idol sits his Sister, who stands upon her feet, and is well clad, being call'd by the name of Sotora; upon his left, stands his Brother, cloath'd all over also; whom they call Balhader. Before the Idol, somewhat toward his left hand, stands the Idols Wife upon her feet, all of massy Gold, by the name of Remin; whereas the other three are only of Sandal-wood.

The two other Pagods are appointed for the residence of the chief Bramin, and other Bramins that officiate in the great Pagod. All these Bramins go with their heads bare, and for the most part shav'd; having no other Cloathes but only one piece of Calicut, with one half whereof they cover their bodies; the other part serves them instead of a Scarf. Near the Pagod stands the Tomb of one of their Prophets, whose name was Cabir, to whom they give great honour. You are to take notice also, that their Idols stand upon a kind of Altar, encompass'd with Iron Bars. For no persons are to touch them, but only certain Bramins, appointed for that service by the chief Bramin.

Next to that of Jagrenate, the most famous Pagod is that of Banarous, be∣ing also seated upon the Ganges, in a City that bears the same name. That which is most remarkable is, that from the Gate of the Pagod to the River there is a descent all of Stone; near to which are certain Platforms, and small blind Chambers, some for the Bramins lodging, others where they dress their

victuals; for so soon as the Idolaters have said their Prayers, and made their Of∣ferings, they dress their food, not suffering any person to touch it but themselves, for fear lest any unclean person should come neer it. But above all things, they passionately desire to drink of Ganges water; for as often as they drink it, they are wash'd, as they believe, from all their sins. Great numbers of these Bramins go every day to the cleanest part of the River, where they fill their little round earthen-pots full of water, the mouths whereof are very small, and contain every one of them a Bucket-full. Being thus fill'd, they bring them before the great Priest, who covers them with a fine piece of flame-colour'd Calicut, three or four times doubl'd, to which he sets his Seal. The Bramins carry these pots, some six of them ty'd together with six little cords fasten'd to the end of a stick as broad as a lath, shifting their shoulders often; travelling sometimes three or four hunder'd leagues with those precious burthens up into the Countrey. Where they sell it, ro present it; but that is only to the rich, from whence they expect great rewards. There are some of these Idolaters, who when they make any great Feast, especially when they marry their children, will drink four or five-hunder'd Crowns in this water. They never drink of it till the end of their meals; and then a glass or two according to the liberality of the Master of the Feast. The chief reason why they esteem the water of Ganges so highly, is, because it never putrifies, nor engenders any vermin; though I know not whether they may be believ'd, considering the great quantity of dead bodies which they fling into the Ganges.

The body of the Pagod of Banarous is made like a Cross, as are all the rest of the Pagods, the four parts whereof are equal. In the midst there is a Cupola rais'd very high, the top whereof is pyramidal; at the end also of every four parts of the Cross there is a Tower, to which there is an ascent on the out-side. Before you come to the top, there are several Balconies and Niches wherein to take the fresh air: and round about are figures of all sorts of creatures, but very Leud work. Under the Duomo, in the middle of the Pagod there is an Altar, like a Table, eight foot long, and six foot broad, with two steps before, that serve for a footstool, which is cover'd sometimes with a rich Tapestry, sometimes with Silk, sometimes with Cloath of Gold or Silver, according to the solemnity of their Festival. Their Altars are cover'd with Cloath of Gold or Silver, or else with some painted Calicuts. Approaching the entry of the Pagod, you see the Altar right before ye, together with the Idols which are upon it. For the Wo∣men and Virgins worship without, not being permitted to enter the Pagod, no more than is a certain Tribe which is among them. Among the Idols that stand upon the great Altar, there is one plac'd upright some five or six foot high; but you can see neither arms, nor legs, nor body: nothing appears but the head and neck, all the rest being cover'd down to the Altar with a Robe that spreads it self below. Sometimes you shall see the neck set out with some rich Chain either of Gold, Rubies, Pearls, or Emraulds. This Idol was made in honour and likeness of Bainma-dou, who was heretofore a very great and holy Personage among them, whose name they oft'n have in their mouths. Upon the right-side of the Altar stands the figure of a Chimera, part Elephant, part Horse, part Mule. It is of massive Gold, and they call it Garou, not suffering any person to approach it but the Bramins. They say it is the resemblance of the Beast which carri'd that holy person when he liv'd upon earth. And that he travell'd long journeys upon his back, to see if the people remain'd in their duty, and whether they did no wrong one to another. Between the great Gate and the great Altar upon the left-hand, there is a little Altar, upon which there stands an Idol of black Marble sitting cross∣legg'd, about two foot high. While I was there, a little Boy who was the Son of the High-Priest stood upon the left-side of the Altar, and all the people threw him certain pieces of Taffata, or embroider'd Calicut, like Handkerchiefs, all which he return'd to the people again after he had wip'd them upon the Idol. Others threw him Bracelets of Coral, others of yellow Amber, others threw him fruits and flowers; whatever they threw him, he rubb'd it upon the Idol, put it to his lips, and then restor'd it to the people. This Idol is call'd Morli-Ram, that is to say God-Morli, and was the Brother of him that stands upon the great Al∣tar.

Under the Portal of the Pagod sits one of the principal Bramins with a great Bason by him, full of a yellow colour mix'd with water. All these poor Idola∣ters come and present themselves before him, who gives them a mark from be∣tween the eyes to the top of the nose, then upon the arms, and upon the stomach; by which marks they know who have wash'd themselves in Ganges, and who not. Those that never wash'd themselves but in the waters of their own Wells, or have only sent for it from the River, they do not believe to be perfectly purifi'd, and by consequence they are not to be mark'd with that colour. By the way take notice, that these Idolaters are mark'd with different colours, according to the Tribe they are of. But in the Empire of the Great Mogul, they who are painted with yellow compose the biggest Tribe, and are the least defil'd. For when they are necessitated to the deeds of nature, some think it not enough to wash the part defil'd; but they first rub the part with a handful of sand, and then scour it with water. After so doing, they affirm their bodies to be clean, and that they can eat their food without fear.

Neer to this great Pagod upon the Summer-west, stands a kind of a Colledg, which the Raja Jesseing, the most Potent of all the Idolaters in the Mogul's Em∣pire, built for the education of the youth of the better sort. I saw two of the children of that Prince there at School, who had for their Masters several Bra∣mins, who taught them to write and read in a language peculiar to the Idolaters Priests, and far different from the speech of the common people. Entring into the Court of that Colledg, and casting my eyes up, I discover'd two Galleries that went round the Court, where I saw the two Princes sitting, attended by several petty Lords and Bramins, who made several Mathematical Figures upon the ground with chalk. The two Princes seeing me, sent to know who I was; and understanding that I was a Frank, they sent for me up, and ask'd me several questions touching Europe, and particularly touching France. Whereupon there being two Globes in the room which the Hollanders had giv'n the Bramins, I shew'd the Princes where France lay upon one of them. After I had taken leave, I ask'd one of the Bramins when I might see the Pagod open: he answer'd me, the next morning before Sun-rising. When I came there, I observ'd before the door, a Gallery supported with Pillars, where there was already a great crowd of men, women and children expecting when the Pagod would be open'd. By and by, the Gallery, and a great part of the Court being full, there came eight Bra∣mins, four of each side of the Gate, with every one a Censer in his hand, follow'd by a rabble of other Bramins that made a hideous noise with Drums and other In∣struments. The two eldest of the Bramins sing a Song; and then all the people, falling into the tune, fall a singing and playing, with every one a Peacock's-tall, or some other kind of flabel, to drive away the flies, that the Idol may not be an∣annoid when they op'n the Pagod. This fanning, and the Musick, lasted a good half hour. Then the two principal Bramins made a great noise three times with two little Bells, and with a kind of a Mallet knockt at the Pagod-door. Which was presently open'd by six Bramins within, discovering, some six or seven paces from the entrance, an Altar with an Idol upon it, which they call Ram, Ram, the Sister of Morli-Ram. Upon her right-hand she has a child made like a great Cu∣pid, which they call the God La-kemin, and in her left-arm a little Girl, which they call the Goddess Sita. So soon as the Pagod was open, and that a great Cur∣tain was drawn, the people, who perceiv'd the Idol, fell upon the ground, laying their hands upon their heads, and prostrating themselves three times. Then rising up, they threw great quantities of Nosegays and Garlands to the preists; with which the Bramins touch'd the Idol, and then restor'd them again. Before the Altar stood a Bramin, who held in his hand a lamp of nine weeks lighted, upon which he cast Incense every foot, and then held it to the Idol. All these ceremonies lasted above an hour; after which the people departed, and the Pagod was shut. They pre∣sented the Idol with great store of Rice, Meal, Butter, Oil, and Milk-meats, of which the Bramins lose nothing. Now in regard this Idol is the representation of a Woman, the Women all invoke it, and call her their Patroness: which is the reason that the place is generally crowded with Women and Maids. The Raja, to have this Idol in the Pagod of his own house, and for taking it out of the great Pagod, has expended as well upon the Bramins, as in alms to the poor, above five Lacres of Roupies, or 750000 Livres of our Money.

On the other side of the Street where the Colledg is built, there stands another Pagod, call'd Richourdas, from the name of the Idol, which is within upon the Al∣tar: and somewhat lower upon another small Altar stands another Idol, which they call Goupaldas, the Brother of Richourdas. You see nothing but the face of all these Idols, which is either of wood or jet; unless it be the Idol of Morly-Ram, which stands in the great Pagod stark naked. As for the Idol Ram-Kam, which stands in the Raja's Pagod, it has two Diamonds instead of eyes, which the Prince caus'd to be set there, with a Coller of Pearl, and Canopy over his head, sup∣ported with four Silver-Pillars.

Some eight days journey from Banarous, bending Northward, you enter into a Mountainous Countrey; but which sometimes op'ns it self into very large plains, sometimes three or four leagues in length. They are very fertil in Corn, Rice, Wheat and Pulse. But that which is the plague and ruine of the people of that Countrey, is the vast number of Elephants that breed there, and devour their Harvest. If a Caravan pass through any part of that Countrey where there are no Inns, in regard the people are forc'd to lye in the op'n Fields, they have much ado to defend themselves from the Elephants that will come to take away their provisions. To skare them, the people make great fires, shoot off their Mus∣kets, hooping and hollowing ever and anon. In this place there is another Pagod, well-built, and very ancient, adorn'd with many figures both within and without, which are only the representations of Maids and Women; so that Men are seldom known to repair thither for devotion's-sake; and therefore it is call'd the Wo∣mens Pagod. There is an Altar in the middle, as in other Pagods; and upon the Altar an Idol of massy Gold, four foot high, representing a Maid standing upright, which they call Ram-Marion. At her right-hand stands a Child of massy Silver, about two foot high; and they say that the Maid liv'd a very holy life, that that Child was brought to her by the Bramins to be instructed in her belief, and in the knowledg of well-living: but that after two or three years that the Child had liv'd with her, the Infant grew so knowing and ready-witted, that all the Raja's of the Countrey long'd for her company; so that being stoll'n from her one night, she was never seen afterwards. Upon the left-hand of this Idol stands another Idol, representing an old Man; who, as they say, was the servant of Ram-Marion and the Infant: for which reason the Bramins do very much reverence this Idol. They never come but once a year in devotion, but they must be there upon a pre∣fix'd day, which is the first of November, though they never op'n the Pagod till the full of the Moon. During those fifteen days, the Pilgrims, as well Men as Women, fast from time to time, and wash themselves three times a-day, not leaving a hair in any part of their bodies, which they take off with a certain earth.

CHAP. XII. A Continuation of the description of the principal Pagods of the Indian Idolaters.

NExt to the Pagods of Jngrenate and Banarous, the most considerable is that of Matura, about eighteen leagues from Agra, upon the way to Dehly. It is one of the most sumptuous Edifices in all India, and the place to which the greatest number of Pilgrims was wont to resort: But now there are very few or none; the Idolaters having insensibly lost the reverence which they had for that Pagod, since the River of Gemena, that formerly ran by that Pagod, has chang'd its course, above half a league from it. For it requires so much time to return to the Pagod, after they have wash'd in the River, that they were many times defil'd again before they could reach it. Though this Pagod stand in a bottom, yet you may discover it five or six leagues before you come at it, the building being very lofty and magnificent. The Stones are of a red colour,

which they fetch from a Quarry neer Agra. They cleave like our Slates, some of them being fifteen foot long, and nine or ten foot broad, yet not above six fingers thick, especially when you cleave them as you would have them for use: They also make very fair Pillars. The Fortress of Agra, the Walls of Jeha∣nabat, the King's House, the two Mosquees, and several Noblemens Houses are all built of this Stone.

The Pagod is built upon a great Platform of an Octogonal Figure, pav'd with Free-stone; being adorn'd round about with the figures of all sorts of crea∣tures, especially Apes. There is an ascent to it two ways of fifteen or sixteen steps a-piece, every step being two foot broad, for two persons to go a-brest. One of the ascents leads up to the great Portal of the Pagod, the other behind up to the Chancel. The Pagod does not take up above half the Platform, the other half serving for a Piazza before it. The Structure is in the form of a Cross, like the rest of the Pagods, in the midst whereof a great Duomo, with two others of each side somewhat less, advance themselves above the rest of the building. The out-side of the building from top to bottom is adorn'd with the figures of Rams, Apes and Elephants, and several sorts of Mon∣sters. From one foot below every one of these Duomo's, to the Roof, at such and such spaces, are Windows, some five, some six feet high, and to every Window belongs a Balcone, where four persons may stand. Every Bal∣cone is cover'd with a little Arch, supported by four Pillars, others by eight, every two touching one another. Round about the Duomo's are Niches fill'd with the figures of Daemons. Some with four arms, some with four legs. Some with mens heads upon the bodies of Beasts, and long tails that hang down to their thighes: There are abundance of Apes; and indeed it is an ugly sight to behold so many deform'd spectacles. There is but one great door to the Pagod, upon each side whereof there are Pillars and Figures of Men and Monsters. The hinder-part is clos'd with a close Balister of Stone-Pillars five or six inches in Diameter, into which, as into a kind of Sanctum Sanctorum, none but the Bramins are permitted to enter: but for Money, I got in, and saw a square Altar some fifteen or sixteen foot from the door, co∣ver'd with an old Tissue of Gold and Silver, upon which stood the great Idol, which they call Ram, Ram. You see nothing but his head, which is of a very black Marble, with two Rubies instead of eyes. All the body, from the shoul∣ders to the feet, is cover'd with a Robe of Purple-Velvet, with some small embroidery. There are two other Idols on each side of him two foot high, ap∣parell'd in the same manner; only their faces are white, which they call Bec∣chor. There I also saw a Machine sixteen foot square, and between twelve and fifteen foot high; cover'd with painted Calicuts, representing the shapes of De∣vils. This Machine running upon four Wheels, they told me, was a moving Altar, upon which they carri'd their great God in Procession to visit the other Gods, as also to the River, whither all the people went upon their great Festi∣val.

The fourth Pagod is that of Tripeti, in the Province of Carnatica, toward the Coast of Coromandel, and Cape Comorin. I saw it as I went to Maslipatan. It is a Pagod to which there belong a great number of little lodgings for the Bramins: so that altogether it seems to be a great Town. There are several Ponds round about it; but their superstition is so great, that no Passenger dare take any water out of them, but what the Bramin gives him.

CHAP. XIII. Of the Pilgrimages of the Idolaters to their Pagods.

ALL the Idolaters under the Dominion of the Great Mogul, and other Princes, both on this side and beyond Ganges, at least once in their lives go in Pilgrimage to one of these Pagods that I have nam'd; but most gene∣rally to that of Jugrenate, as being the first and most considerable above all the rest. The Bramins and rich people go oftner. For some go every four years, some every six, or eight; and putting the Idols of their Pagods upon Pallekies cover'd with Tissues, they travell with their Bramins, as it were in procession to the Pagod which they most esteem.

They go not in Pilgrimage one by one, or two and two, but whole Towns, and many times several Towns together. The poor that go a great way, are supply'd by the rich; who spend very freely in such acts of Charity. The rich travel in Pallekies or Chariots, the poor on foot, or upon Oxen; the Wife carrying the Child, and the man the Kitchin Implements.

The Idol which they carry in procession, by way of visit, and out of respect to the great Ram-Ram, lies at length in a rich Palleky, cover'd with Tissue of Gold and Silver, fring'd as richly; the Mattress and Bolster being of the same stuff under the head, feet, and elbows. The Bramins also distribute Fla∣bels to the most considerable of the Company, the handles whereof being eight foot long, are plated with Gold and Silver. The Flabel being three foot in Dia∣meter, of the same Tissue as the Pallekies; round about, it is adorn'd with Peacocks Feathers to gather more wind, and sometimes with Bells to make a kind of tingling. There are six of these Flabels usually employ'd to keep off the Flies from their God; the better sort taking it by turns, that the honour of waiting upon their God may be more equally shar'd.

CHAP. XIV. Of divers Customs of the Indian Idolaters.

THE Bramins are well skill'd in Astrology; and will exactly foretell to the peo∣ple the Eclipses of the Sun and Moon. The second of July 1666, about one a Clock in the afternoon, at Patna in Bengala, there was an Eclipse of the Sun; at which time it was a prodigious thing to see the multitudes of people, men, women, and children, that ran to the River Ganges, to wash them∣selves. But it behoves them to begin to wash three days before the Eclipse; all which time they labour day and night in providing all sorts of Rice, Milk, Meats, and Sweatmeats, to throw to the Fish and Crocodiles, as soon as the Bramins give the word. Whatever Eclipse it be whether of the Sun or Moon, the Idolaters as soon as it appears, break all their Earthen Pots and Dishes in the house, which makes a hideous noise altogether.

Every Bramin has his Magick Book, wherein are abundance of Circles and Semicircles, Squares, Triangles, and several sorts of Cifers. They also make several Figures upon the ground, and when they find that the good hour is come, they cry aloud to the people to feed the fish. Then there ensues a most horrible din of Drums, Bells, and great noise of sounding Mettal, which they twang one against another. And as soon as the victuals are thrown into the Ri∣ver, the people are to go in and wash and rub themselves till the Eclipse be o∣ver. So that in regard the waters were at that time very high, for more than three Leagues above and below the City, and all the breadth of the River, there

was nothing to be seen but the heads of the people. As for the Bramins, they stay ashore to receive the richer sort, and those that give most; to dry their bodies, and to give them dry Linnen to their bellies. Afterwards they cause them to sit down in a Chair, where the most liberal of the Idolaters have pro∣vided Rice, Pulse, Milk, Butter, Sugar, Meal, and Wood. Before the Chair the Bramin makes a place very clean about five foot square; then with Cow-dung steep'd in a kind of yellow Bason, he rubs all the place, for fear any Emet should come there to be burnt. For indeed they would never make use of Wood if they could help it; and when they do, they are very careful that there be no Worms or Insects in it. In the place which they have thus cleans'd, they draw several Figures, as Triangles, Ovals, Half-Ovals, &c. Then upon every Figure they lay a little Cows-dung, with two or three small sticks of Wood, upon every one of which they lay a several sort of Grain; after that pouring Butter, and setting fire to each; by the smoak which rises, they judg of the plenty of every sort of Grain that year.

When the Moon is at the full in March, they keep a solemn Festival for their Idol, which is in form of a Serpent. This Festival continues nine days; and when it comes, they do nothing but make Holiday all the while, as well men as beasts, which they beautifie by making Circles about their eyes with Ver∣million, with which they also colour the Horns; and if they have a particular kindness for the beast, they hang them with Leaves of guilded Tin. Every morning they worship the Idol, and the Maids dance about it for an hour, to the noise of Fluits and Drums; after which they eat and drink and are merry till the evening, and then they worship and dance about their Idol again.

Though the Idolaters never drink any strong drink at other times, yet at this Festival they drink Palm-wine, and strong water, which is made of the same in remote Villages; for else their Mahometan Governour would not suffer them to make Wine, nor to sell any which might be brought out of Persia.

Their strong Water is thus made: They take a great Earthen pot, well glaz'd within, which they call Martavane; into one of these Vessels, that holds three hundred Paris pints of Palma-wine, they put in fifty or sixty pound of brown Sugar unrefin'd, which looks like yellow Wax; with about twenty pound of a great thick bark of a Thorn, not much unlike that which our Leather-dressers use. This bark sets the Palma-wine a bubling and working just like our new wines, for five or six days together, till it becomes of a sweet Liquor, as sowre as our Crabs. Then they distill it, and according to the taste they would give, they either put into a Cauldron full, a little Bag of Mace, or three or four handfuls of Annise-seed. They can make it also as strong as they please.

Being at Agra in the year 1642, an Idolater, whose name was Woldas, Broa∣ker to the Hollanders, about seventy years of age, receiving news that the chief Bramin of the Pagod of Matura was dead, went to the Hollander and desir'd him to even all accounts; for said he, the chief Priest being dead, it behoves me to dye, that I may serve him in the other world. Thereupon having ended his accounts, he took his Coach, with some of his Kindred; but having neither eaten nor drank from the time he receiv'd the news, he dy'd by the way; having famish'd himself for grief.

The Indian Idolaters have a custom, that when any person gives a thing, they snap their fingers, crying out, Gi-Narami, remember Narami, who was a great Saint among them, for fear the Evil Spirit should enter into the body of him that gives.

Being at Surat in the year 1653, a Raspoute being demanded Custom for three or four pieces of Calicut, boldly ask'd the Governour, whether a Soul∣dier that had serv'd the King all his life-time, ought to pay Custom for two or three pitiful pieces of Calicut, not worth four or five Roupies; telling him it was only to cloath his Wife and Children. The Governour netl'd at his sawciness, call'd him Bethico, or Son of a Whore; adding, that if he were Prince he would make him pay his Customs. Whereupon the Souldier incens'd at the affront, making as if he felt for Money to pay his dues, bearing up to the Go∣vernor, stab'd him in the belly, so that he dy'd immediately. But the Soul∣dier was presently cut in pieces by the Governors Servants.

Though the Idolaters are in utter darkness as to the knowledg of the true God, however the Law of Nature teaches them Morality in many things. When they are married they are seldom false to their Wives. Adultery is very rare among them. And as for Sodomy I never heard it mention'd. They marry their Children between seven and eight years old, for fear they should fall into that vice; the Ceremonies whereof are these: The day before the Nuptials, the Bridegroom, accompany'd by all his Kindred, goes to the House where the Bride lives, with a great pair of Bracelets, two fingers thick, hollow within, and in two pieces, with a hinge in the middle to open them. According to the quality of the Bride those Bracelets are of more or less value, sometimes of Gold, sometimes of Silver, Tin, or Latten, the poorest sort of all making use of Lead. The next day there is a great Feast at the Bridegrooms House, whe∣ther all the Kindred on both sides are invited, and about three a Clock in the afternoon the Bride is brought thither. Then the chief of the Bramins that are there, of which there are always several, laying the head of the Bride to the Bridegrooms, pronounces several words, sprinkling their heads and bo∣dies all the while with water. Then they bring him upon Plates or Fig-leaves several sorts of Meats, Calicuts, and Stuffs; and then the Bramin asks the Bridegroom, whether so long as God shall make him able, he will let his Wife share with him, and whether he will endeavour to maintain her by his labour. If he says yes, they all set themselves down to the Feast prepar'd for them, where every one eats by himself. If the Bride be rich, and be acquainted among the Nobility, their Weddings are very pompous and expensive. The Bridegroom is mounted upon an Elephant, and the Bride rides in a Chariot; the whole Company carrying Torches in their hands. They also borrow of the Governour and the Nobility of the place, as many Elephants and prancing Horses as they can get. And they walk some part of the night with Fire∣works, which they throw about the Streets and Piazza's. But the greatest expence to those that live three or four hundred Leagues from it, is to get the wa∣ter of Ganges; for in regard they account that water sacred, and drink it out of devotion, it must be brought them by the Bramins, and in Earthen Vessels, glaz'd within side, which the chief Bramin of Ingrenate fills himself with the purest Water of the River, and then seals up with his own Seal. They never drink this water till the end of the Feast, and then they give their guests three or more glasses apiece. This water coming so far, and the chief Bramin de∣manding a Tribute for every pot, which contains a Pail-full, sometimes a wed∣ding comes to two or three thousand Roupies.

The eighth of April, being in a City of Bengala call'd Malde, the Idolaters made a great Feast, according to the particular Custom of that place; they all go out of the City, and fasten Iron hooks to the boughs of several Trees, then come a great number of poor people and hang themselves, some by the sides, some by the brawn of their backs, upon those hooks, till the weight of their body tearing away the flesh, they fall of themselves. 'Tis a wonderful thing to see that not so much as one drop of blood should issue from the wounded flesh, nor that any of the flesh should be left upon the hook; besides, that in two days they are perfectly cur'd by such Plaisters as their Bramins give them. There are others who at that Feast will lye upon a bed of nails, with the points upward, the nails entring a good way into the flesh; however while these peo∣ple are under this Pennance, their Friends come and present them with Money and Linnen. When they have undergone their Penance, they take the presents and distribute them to the poor, without making any farther advantage of them. I ask'd one, why they made that Feast, and suffer'd those severe Pe∣nances; who answer'd me, that it was in remembrance of the first man, whom they call'd Adam, as we do.

In the year 1666, I saw another sort of Penance, as I cross'd the Ganges; upon the Bank of which River they had prepar'd a clean place, where one of the poor Idolaters was condemn'd to rest upon the ground, touching it only with his hands and feet; which he was to do several times a day, and every time to kiss the earth three times before he rose up again. He was to rise up upon his left foot, never touching the ground with his right all the while. And

every day for a month together before he either eat or drank he was oblig'd to this posture for fifty times together, and consequently to kiss the ground a hundred and fifty times. He told me, that the Bramins had enjoin'd him that Penance because he had suffer'd a Cow to dye in his House, and had not lead her to the water to be wash'd before she dy'd.

When an Idolater has lost any piece of Gold or Silver, or summ of Money either by negligence, or as being stoln from him, he is oblig'd to carry as much as he lost to the great Bramin; for if he does not, and that the other should come to know of it, he is ignominiously cast out of his Tribe, to make him more careful another time.

On the other side the Ganges Northward, toward the Mountains of Naugro∣cot, there are two or three Raja's, who neither believe God nor the Devil. Their Bramins have a book containing their Belief, full of ridiculous absurdi∣ties, whereof the Author whose name is Baudou gives no reason. These Raja's are the Great Moguls Vassals, and pay him Tribute.

To conclude the Malavares carefully preserve the nails of their left hands, and let their hair grow like women's. These nails, which are half a finger long, serve them instead of Combs; and it is with their left hand that they do all their drudgery, never touching their faces, nor what they eat, but with their right hands.

CHAP. XV. Of the Kingdom of Boutan, whence comes the Musk, the good Rhu∣barb, and some Furs.

THE Kingdom of Boutan is of a large extent; but I could never yet come to a perfect knowledg thereof. I have set down all that I could learn at Patna, whither the Merchants of Boutan come to sell their Musk. The most excellent Rhubarb comes also from the Kingdom of Boutan. From hence is brought also that Seed which is good against the worms, therefore call'd Wormseed; and good store of Furs. As for the Rhubarb, the Merchants run a great hazard which way soever they bring it; for if they take the Northern Road, toward Caboul, the wet spoils it; if the Southern Road, in regard the journey is long, if the Rains happen to fall, there is as much danger that way; so that there is no Commodity requires more care then that.

As for the Musk, during the heats the Merchant loses by it, because it dries and loses its weight. Now in regard this Commodity pays twenty-five in the hundred Custom at Gorrochepour, the last Town belonging to the Great Mogul, next to the Kingdom of Boutan, when the Indian Merchants come to that City, they go to the Officer of the Custom-House, and tell him that they are going to Boutan to buy Musk or Rhubarb, and how much they intend to lay out; all which the Officer Registers, with the name of the Merchant. Then the Merchants instead of twenty-five, agree with him for seven or eight in the hundred, and take a Certificate from the Officer or Cadi, that he may not de∣mand any more at their return. If the Officer refuses a handsom composition, then they go another way, over Desarts and Mountains cover'd with Snow, tedious and troublesome, till they come to Caboul, where the Caravans part, some for great Tartary, others for Balch. Here it is that the Merchants coming from Boutan barter their Commodities for Horses, Mules, and Camels; for there is little Money in that Country. Then those Tartars transport their Commo∣dities into Persia, as far as Ardevile and Tauris; which is the reason that some Europeans have thought that Rhubarb and Wormseed came out of Tartary. True it is, that some Rhubarb comes from thence; but not so good as that of Boutan, being sooner corrupted; for Rhubarb will eat out its own heart. The Tartars carry back out of Persia Silks of small value, which are made in Tauris

and Ardevile, and some English Cloth brought by the Armenians from Constan∣tinople and Smyrna. Some of the Merchants that come from Caboul and Bou∣tan go to Candahar, and thence to Ispahan; whether they carry Coral in Beads, yellow Amber, and Lapis Lazuli Beads, if they can meet with it. The other Merchants that come from the Coast of Multan, Lahor, and Agra, bring only Linnons, Indigo, and store of Cornelian and Christal Beads. Those that return through Gorrochepour, and are agreed with the Officer of the Custom-House, carry from Patna and Daca, Coral, yellow Amber, Bracelets of Tortois-shells, and other Shells, with great store of round and square thick pieces of Tor∣tois. When I was at Patna, four Armenians who had been before at Boutan, return'd from Dantzick, where they had made certain Figures of yellow Am∣ber, representing the shapes of several Creatures and Monsters, which they were carrying to the King of Boutan, who is an Idolater, as are all his people, to set up in his Pagods. For the Armenians for Money will sell any thing of Ido∣latry; and they told me besides, that if they could but have made the Idol which the King of Boutan bespoke of them, they should have done their busi∣ness. Which was to have been a Monsters head, with six horns, four ears, four arms, and six fingers upon every hand, all of yellow Amber; but they could not find pieces big enough.

The Caravan is three months travelling from Patna to the Kingdom of Bou∣tan. It sets out from Patna about the end of December, and eight days after arrives at Gorrochepour.

From Gorrochepour to the foot of the high Mountains, is eight or nine days journey more, during which the Caravan suffers very much hardship, for the Country is nothing but wide Forrests, full of wild Elephants. So that the Mer∣chants, instead of taking their rests, are forc'd to watch, keep fires, and shoot off their Muskets all the night long. For the Elephant making no noise in tread∣ing, would else be upon the Caravan before they were aware; not that he comes to do any mischief to the men, but to get what victuals he can find. You may travel from Patna to the foot of those Mountains in Palleki's. But gene∣rally they ride upon Oxen, Camels, or Horses, bred in the Country. Those Horses are generally so little, that when a man is upon the back of them, his feet touch the ground; but they will travel twenty Leagues an end, and never bait, or else with a very small one. Some of those Horses cost two hundred Crowns; for indeed when you come to cross the Mountains, you can make use of no other sort of carriage but them, in regard of the narrowness and rug∣gedness of the Passes; which many times put the Horses very much to it, as strong and as low as they are.

Five or six Leagues beyond Gorrochepour you enter into the Territories of the Raja of Nupal, which extend to the Frontiers of the Kingdom of Boutan. This Raja is a Tributary to the Great Mogul, and pays him every year an Elephant for his Homage. He resides in the City of Nupal, from whence he derives his Title; but there is little either Trade or Money in his Country, which is all Woods and Forrests.

The Caravan being arriv'd at the foot of these Mountains, which are call'd at this day by the name of Naugrocot, abundance of people come from all parts of the Mountain, the greatest part whereof are women and maids, who agree with the Merchants to carry them, their goods and provisions cross the Mountains, which is eight days journey more.

The women carry upon each shoulder a woollen Roll, to which is fasten'd a large Cushion, that hangs down upon their backs, upon which the man sits. There are three women to carry one man, relieving one another by turns. And for their luggage and provisions, they lade them upon Goats, that will carry a hundred and fifty pound weight apiece. Those that will ride, are in many places forc'd to have their Horses hoisted up with Cords. They never feed them but morning and evening, mixing a pound of meal, half a pound of brown Sugar, and half a pound of Butter together, with water sufficient. In the evening they must be contented only with a few flat Peason, bruis'd, and steep'd half an hour in water. The women that carry the men, get for their ten days travel two Roupies apiece, and as much for every burthen which the Goats carry, and for every Horse which they lead.

After you have pass'd the Mountains, you may travel to Boutan upon Oxen, Camels, Horses, or Palleki's, which you please. The Country is good, abound∣ing in Rice, Corn, Pulse, and store of wine. All the people both men and wo∣men are clad in the Summer with a large piece of Fustian, or Hempen-Cloath; in the Winter with a thick Cloth, almost like Felt. Both men and women wear upon their heads a kind of Bonnet, much like our drinking Cans, which they adorn with Boars teeth, and with round and square pieces of Tortois-Shells. The richer sort intermix Coral and Amber Beads, of which their women make them Neck-Laces. The men as well as the women wear Bracelets upon their left hands only, from the wrist to the elbow. The women wear them strait, the men loose. About their necks they wear a silken twist, at the end where∣of hangs a Bead of yellow Amber or Coral, or a Boars Tooth, which dangles upon their breasts. On their left sides, their Girdles are button'd with Beads of the same. Though they be Idolaters, yet they feed upon all sort of food, except the flesh of Cows, which they adore as the common Nurses of all men; they are besides great lovers of strong water. They observe also some Cere∣monies of the Chineses, burning Amber at the end of their Feasts, though they do not worship fire like the Chineses. For which reason the Merchants of Bou∣tan will give at Patna for a Serre of large pieces of yellow Amber, as big as a Nut, bright and clean, thirty-five and forty Roupies. The Serre of yellow Amber, Musk, Coral, Ambergrise, Rhubarb, and other Drugs, containing nine Ounces to the pound. Saltpeter, Sugar, Rice, Corn, and other Commodities, are also sold by the Serre in Bengala; but the Serre contains seventy-two of our Pounds, at sixteen Ounces to the Pound; and forty Serres make a Mein, or 2824 Pounds of Paris.

To return to yellow Amber, a piece of nine ounces is worth in Boutan from 250 to 300 Roupies, according to its colour and beauty. Coral rough, or wrought into Beads, yields profit enough; but they had rather have it rough, to shape it as they please themselves.

The Women and Maids are generally the Artists among them, as to those toys. They also make Beads of Crystal and Agat. As for the Men, they make Bracelets of Tortoise-shell, and Sea-shells, and polish those little pieces of Shells which the Northern people wear in their ears, and in their hair. In Patna and Daca there are above two thousand persons that thus employ themselves, furnishing the King∣doms of Boutan, Asem, Siam, and other Northern and Eastern parts of the Mo∣gul's Dominions.

As for Wormseed, the Herb grows in the Fields, and must dye before the Seed can be gather'd: but the mischief is, that before the Seed is ripe, the wind scat∣ters the greatest part, which makes it so scarce. When they gather the Seed, they take two little Hampers, and as they go along the Fields, they move their Hampers from the right to the left, and from the left to the right, as if they were mowing the Herb, bowing it at the top, and so all the Seed falls into the Hampers.

Rhubarb is a Root which they cut in pieces, and stringing them by ten or twelve together, hang them up a drying.

Had the Natives of Boutan as much art in killing the Martin as the Muscovite, they might vend great store of those rich Furs, considering what a number of those Beasts there are in that Countrey. No sooner does that creature peep out of his hole, but the Muscovites, who lye upon the watch, have e'm presently, either in the nose or in the eyes; for should they hit e'm in the body, the blood would quite spoyl the skin.

The King of Boutan has constantly seven or eight thousand Men for his Guard. Their Weapons are for the most part Bows and Arrows. Some of them carry Battel-axes, and Bucklers. 'Tis a long time ago since they had the first use of Muskets and Cannons: their Gun-powder being long, but of an extraordinary force. They assur'd me that some of their Cannons had Letters and Figures up∣on them, that were above five-hunder'd years old. They dare not stir out of the Kingdom without the Governor's particular leave; nor dare they carry a Musket along with them, unless their next Kindred will undertake for them that they shall bring it back. Otherwise I had brought one along with me; for by the cha∣racters

upon the Barrel, it appear'd to have been made above 180 years. It was very thick, the mouth of the bore being like a Tulip, polish'd within as bright as a Looking-glass. Two thirds of the Barrel were garnish'd with emboss'd Wires, with certain Flowers of Gold and Silver inlaid between; and it carri'd a Bullet that weigh'd an ounce. But I could not prevail with the Merchant to sell it me, nor to give me any of his powder.

There are always fifty Elephants kept about the King's House, and twenty five Camels, with each a Piece of Artillery mounted upon his back, that carries half a pound Ball. Behind the Gun sits a Cannoneer that manages and levels the Guns as he pleases.

There is no King in the World more fear'd and more respected by his Subjects then the King of Boutan; being in a manner ador'd by them. When he sits to do Justice, or give Audience, all that appear in his presence hold their hands close to∣gether above their forheads: and at a distance from the Throne prostrate them∣selves upon the ground, not daring to lift up their heads. In this humble posture they make their Petitions to the King; and when they retire, they go backwards till they are quite out of his sight. One thing they told me for truth, that when the King has done the deeds of nature, they diligently preserve the ordore, dry it and powder it, like sneezing-powder: and then putting it into Boxes, they go every Market-day, and present it to the chief Merchants, and rich Farmers, who recompence them for their kindness: that those people also carry it home, as a great rarity, and when they feast their Friends, strew it upon their meat. Two Boutan Merchants shew'd me their Boxes, and the Powder that was in them.

The Natives of Boutan are strong and well proportion'd; but their noses and faces are somewhat flat. Their women are said to be bigger and more vigo∣rous than the men; but that they are much more troubled with swellings in the throat then the men, few escaping that disease. They know not what war is, having no enemy to fear but the Mogul. But from him they are fenc'd with high, steep, craggy, and snowey Mountains. Northward there are nothing but vast Forrests and Snow. East and West nothing but bitter water. And as for the Raja's near them, they are Princes of little force.

There is certainly some Silver Mine in the Kingdom of Boutan, for the King coins much Silver, in pieces that are of the value of a Roupy. The pieces are already describ'd. However the Boutan Merchants could not tell me where the Mine lay. And as for their Gold, that little they have is brought them from the East, by the Merchants of those Countries.

In the year 1659, the Duke of Muscovy's Embassadors pass'd through this Country to the King of China. They were three of the greatest Noblemen in Muscovy, and were at first very well receiv'd; but when they were brought to kiss the Kings hands, the custom being to prostrate themselves three times to the ground, they refus'd to do it, saying that they would complement the King after their manner, and as they approach'd their own Emperor, who was as great and as potent as the Emperor of China. Thereupon, and for that they con∣tinu'd in their resolution, they were dismiss'd with their presents, not being ad∣mitted to see the King. But had those Embassadors conform'd to the custom of China, without doubt we might have had a beaten rode through Muscovy and the North part of Great Tartary, and much more commerce and knowledge of the Country than now we have.

This mentioning the Muscovites, puts me in mind of a story that several Muscovy Merchants averr'd to be true, upon the rode between Tauris and Is∣pahan, where I overtook them, of a woman of fourscore and two years of age, who at those years was brought to bed in one of the Cities of Muscovy, of a Male Child, which was carry'd to the Duke, and by him brought up at the Court.

CHAP. XVI. Of the Kingdom of Tipra.

MOst people have been of opinion till now, that the Kingdom of Pegu lies upon the Frontiers of China; and I thought so my self, till the Merchants of Tipra undeceiv'd me. I met with three, one at Daca, and two others at Patna. They were men of very few words; whether it were their own particular disposition, or the general habit of the Country. They cast up their accounts with small Stones likes Agats, as big as a mans nail, upon every one of which was a Cypher. They had every one their weights, like a Stelleer; though the Beam were not of Iron, but of a certain Wood as hard as Brazile; nor was the Ring that holds the weight, and is put thorough the Beam to mark the weight, of Iron, but a strong Silk Rope. And thus they weigh'd from a Dram to ten of our Pounds. If all the Natives of the King∣dom of Tipra were like the two Merchants which I met at Patna, I dare af∣firm them to be notable topers; for they never refus'd whatever strong Li∣quor I gave them, and never left till all was out; and when I told them by my Interpreter that all my Wine was gone, they clapt their hands upon their stomachs and sigh'd. These Merchants travell'd all three through the King∣dom of Arakan, which lies to the South and West of Tipra, having some part of Pegu upon the Winter West. They told me also, that it was about fifteen days journey to cross through their Country; from whence there is no cer∣tain conjecture of the extent to be made, by reason of the inequality of the stages. They ride upon Oxen and Horses, which are low. but very hardy. As for the King and the Nobility, they ride in their Pallekies, or upon their Ele∣phants of War. They are no less subject to Wens under their throats, than those of Boutan; insomuch that the women have those Wens hanging down to their Nipples; which proceeds from the badness of the waters.

There is nothing in Tipra which is fit for strangers. There is a Mine of Gold, but the Gold is very course. And there is a sort of very course Silk, which is all the Revenue the King has. He exacts no Subsidies from his Subjects; but only that they, who are not of the prime Nobility, should work six days in a year in his Mine, or in his Silk-works. He sends his Gold and his Silk into China, for which they bring him back Silver, which he coins into pieces to the value of ten Sous. He also makes thin pieces of Gold, like the Aspers of Turky; of which he has two sorts, four of the one sort making a Crown, and twelve of the other.

CHAP. XVII. Of the Kingdom of Asem.

IT was never known what the Kingdom of Asem was, till Mirgimola had setl'd Aureng-zeb in the Empire. For he considering that he should be no longer valu'd at Court, after the war was at an end, being then General of An∣reng-zeb's Army, and powerful in the Kingdom, where he had great store of Creatures, to preserve the Authority he had, resolv'd to undertake the Con∣quest of the Kingdom of Asem; where he knew he should find little or no re∣sistance, that Kingdom having been at peace above 500 years before. 'Tis thought these were the people that formerly invented Guns and Powder; which spead it self from Asem to Pegu, and from Pegu to China, from whence the invention has been attributed to the Chineses. However certain it is, that Mirgimola brought from thence several pieces of Canon, which were all Iron Guns, and store of excellent Powder, both made in that Countrey. The Powder is round and small, like ours, and very strong.

Mirgimola embark'd his Army in one of the mouths of Ganges, and sailing up one of the Rivers that comes from the Lake Chiamay, to the twenty-ninth or thirtieth Degree, he landed his Army, and came into a Country abounding in all humane necessaries, still finding the less resistance because the people were surpriz'd. Being a Mahumetan, he spar'd not the very Pagods, but burn'd and sack'd all where-ever he came to the thirty-fifth Degree. There he under∣stood that the King of Asem was in the field with a more powerful Army than he expected, and that he had several pieces of Canon, and great store of fire-works withall. Thereupon Mirgimola thought it not convenient to march any farther; though the chief reason of his return was the drawing on of Winter; which the Indians are so sensible of, that it is impossible to make them stir beyond the thirti'th or thirty-fifth Degree, especially to hazard their lives.

Mirgimola therefore turns to the South-west, and besieges a City call'd Azoo, which he took in a small time, and found good plunder therein. In this City of Azoo, are the Tombs of the Kings of Asem, and of all the Royal Family. For though they are Idolaters, they never burn their dead bodies, but bury them. They believe that the dead go into another world, where they that have liv'd well in this, have plenty of all things; but that they who have been ill livers, suffer the want of all things, being in a more especial manner afflicted with hunger and drowth; and that therefore it is good to bury something with them to serve them in their necessities. This was the reason that Mirgimola found so much wealth in the City of Azoo. For many ages together, several Kings had built them Chappels in the great Pagod to be buried in, and in their life times had stor'd up in the Vaults of their particular Chappels, great sums of Gold and Silver, and other moveables of value. Besides, that when they bury the deceas'd King, they bury with him likewise whatever he esteem'd most pretious in his life-time, whether it were an Idol of Gold or Silver, or what∣ever else, that being needful in this, might be necessary for him in the world to come. But that which favours most of Barbarism is, that when he dies, all his best beloved Wives, and the principal Officers of his House poyson them∣selves, to be buri'd with him, and to wait upon him in the other world. Be∣sides this, they bury one Elephant, twelve Camels, six Horses, and a good num∣ber of Hounds, believing that all those Creatures rise again to serve their King.

The Kingdom of Asem is one of the best Countries of all Asia, for it pro∣duces all things necessary for humane subsistence, without any need of foreign supply. There are in it Mines of Gold, Silver, Steel, Lead, Iron, and great store of Silk, but course. There is a sort of Silk that is found under the the Trees, which is spun by a Creature like to our Silk-worms, but rounder,

and which lives all the year long under the trees. The Silks which are made of this Silk glist'n very much, but they fret presently. The Country produces also great store of Gum-Lake; of which there is two sorts, one grows under the trees of a red colour, wherewith they paint their Linnen and Stuffs; and when they have drawn out the red juice, the remaining substance serves to var∣nish Cabinets, and to make Wax; being the best Lake in Asia for those uses. As for their Gold they never suffer it to be transported out of the Kingdom, nor do they make any Money of it; but they preserve it all in Ingots, which pass in trade among the Inhabitants; but as for the Silver, the King coins it into Money, as is already describ'd.

Though the Country be very plentiful of all things, yet there is no flesh which they esteem so much as Dogs flesh; which is the greatest delicacy at all Feasts; and is sold every month in every City of the Kingdom upon their Market-days. There are also great store of Vines, and very good Grapes, but they never make any Wine; only they dry the Grapes to make Aqua Vitae. As for Salt they have none but what is artificial, which they make two ways. First they raise great heaps of that green Stuff that swims at the top of standing waters, which the Ducks and Frogs eat. This they dry and burn; and the ashes thereof being boil'd in a Cloth in water, become very good Salt. The other way most in use is to take the leaves of Adams Fig-tree, which they dry and burn; the ashes whereof make a Salt so tart, that it is impossible to eat it until the tartness be tak'n away; which they do by putting the ashes in water, where they stir them ten or twelve hours together; then they strain the substance through a Linnen Cloth and boil it; as the water boils away, the bottom thick'ns; and when the water is all boil'd away, they find at the bottom very good and white Salt.

Of the ashes of these Fig-leaves they make a Lye, wherewith they wash their Silk, which makes it as white as Snow; but they have not enough to whiten half the Silk that grows in the Country.

Kenneroof is the name of the City where the King of Asem keeps his Court; twenty-five or thirty days journey from that which was formerly the Capital City, and bore the same name. The King requires no Subsidies of his peo∣ple; but all the Mines in his Kingdom are his own; where for the ease of his Subjects, he has none but slaves that work; so that all the Natives of Asem live at their ease, and every one has his house by himself, and in the middle of his ground a fountain encompass'd with trees; and most commonly every one an Elephant to carry their Wives; for they have four Wives, and when they marry, they say to one, I take thee to serve me in such a thing; to the other, I appoint thee to do such business; so that every one of the Wives knows what she has to do in the House. The men and women are generally well complexi∣on'd; only those that live more Southerly are more swarthy, and not so sub∣ject to Wens in their throats; neither are they so well featur'd, besides that the women are somewhat flat Nos'd. In the Southern parts the people go stark naked, only covering their private parts, with a Bonnet like a blew Cap upon their heads, hung about with Swines teeth. They pierce holes in their ears, that you may thrust your thumb in, whete they hang pieces of Gold and Silver. Bracelets also of Tortoise-shells, and Sea-shells as long as an egg, which they saw into Circles, are in great esteem among the meaner sort; as Bracelets of Coral and yellow Amber among those that are rich. When they bury a man, all his Friends and Relations must come to the burial; and when they lay the body in the ground, they all take off their Bracelets from their Armsand Legs, and bury them with the Corps.

CHAP. XVIII. Of the Kingdom of Siam.

THE greatest part of the Kingdom of Siam lies between the Golf of Siam and the Golf of Bengala; bordering upon Pegu toward the North, and the Peninsula of Malacca toward the South. The shortest and nearest way for the Europaeans to go to this Kingdom, is to go to Ispahan, from Ispahan to Ormus, from Ormus to Surat, from Surat to Golconda, from Golconda to Maslipatan, there to embark for Denouserin, which is one of the Ports belonging to the King∣dom of Siam. From Denouserin to the Capital City, which is also call'd Siam, is thirty-five days journey, part by Water, part by Land, by Waggon, or upon Elephants. The way, whether by Land or Water, is very troublesome; for by Land you must be always upon your guard, for fear of Tigers and Lions; by Water, by reason of the many falls of the River, they are forc'd to hoise up their Boats with Engines.

All the Countrey of Siam is very plentiful in Rice and Fruits; the chiefest whereof are Mangos, Durions, and Mangustans. The Forests are full of Harts, Elephants, Tigers, Rhinocero's, and Apes; where there grow also large Bambou's in great abundance. Under the knots of these Bambou's are Emets nests as big as a mans head, where every Emet has his apartiment by himself; but there is but one hole to enter into the nest. They make their nests in these Canes to preserve themselves from the rains which continue four or five months together.

In the night time the Serpents are very busie. There are some two foot long, with two heads; but one of them has no motion.

There is also another creature in Siam, like our Salamander, with a forked tail, and very venomous.

The Rivers in this Kingdom are very large; and that which runs by Siam is equally as large as the rest. The water is very wholesome; but it is very full of Crocodiles of a monstrous bigness, that devour men if they be not very care∣ful of themselves. These Rivers overflow their banks while the Sun is in the Southern Tropick; which makes the fields to be very fertile as far as they flow; and it is observ'd, that the Rice grows higher or lower, as the floods do more or less increase.

Siam, the Capital City of the Kingdom, where the King keeps his Court, is wall'd about, being about three of our Leagues in circuit; it is situated in an Island, the River running quite round it, and might be easily brought into eve∣ry street in the Town, if the King would but lay out as much Money upon that design, as he spends in Temples and Idols.

The Siamers have thirty-three Letters in their Alphabet. But they write from the left to the right, as we do, contrary to the custom of Japon, China, Cochinchina, and Tunquin, who write from the right to the left.

All the Natives of this Kingdom are slaves, either to the King or the great Lords. The women as well as the men cut their hair; neither are they very rich in their habits. Among their complements, the chiefest is, never to go before a person that they respect, unless they first ask leave, which they do by holding up both their hands. Those that are rich have several Wives.

The Money of the Country is already describ'd.

The King of Siam is one of the richest Monarchs in the East, and stiles him∣self King of Heaven and Earth; though he be Tributary to the Kings of China. He seldom shews himself to his Subjects; and never gives Audience, but to the principal Favourites of his Court. He trusts to his Ministers of State, for the management of his affairs, who sometimes make very bad use of their authority. He never shews himself in publick above twice a year; but then it is with an extraordinary magnificence. The first is, when he goes to a cer∣tain Pagod within the City, which is guilded round both within and without. There are three Idols between six and seven foot high, which are all of massie

Gold; which he believes he renders propitious to him, by the great store of Alms that he distributes among the poor, and the presents which he makes to the Priests. Then he goes attended by all his Court, and puts to open view the richest Ornaments he has. One part of his magnificence consists in his train of two hundred Elephants; among which there is one that is white, which the King so highly esteems, that he stiles himself King of the White Elephant.

The second time the King appears in publick, is when he goes to another Pagod five or six Leagues above the Town, up the River. But no person must enter into this Pagod, unless it be the King and his Priests. As for the people, so soon as they see the Door op'n, they must presently fall upon their faces to the Earth. Then the King appears upon the River with two hundred Gallies of a prodigious length; four hundred Rowers belonging to every one of the Gallies; most of them being guilded and carv'd very richly. Now in regard this second appearance of the King is in the month of No∣vember, when the waters begin to abate, the Priests make the people believe that none but the King can stop the course of the waters, by his Prayers and by his Offerings to this Pagod. And they are so vain as to think that the King cuts the waters with his Sabra, or Skain; thereby commanding it to retire back into the Sea.

The King also goes, but incognito, to a Pagod in an Island where the Hol∣landers have a Factory. There is at the entry thereof an Idol sitting cross∣leg'd, with one hand upon his knee, and the other arm akimbo. It is above sixty foot high; and round about this Idol are about three hundred others, of several sorts and sizes. All these Idols are guilt. And indeed there are a prodigious number of Pagods in this Countrey; for every rich Siamer causes one to be built in memory of himself. Those Pagods have Steeples and Bells, and the Walls within are painted and guilded; but the Windows are so nar∣row that they give but a very dim light. The two Pagods to which the King goes publickly, are adorn'd with several tall Pyramids, well guilded. And to that in the Hollanders Island there belongs a Cloyster, which is a very neat Structure. In the middle of the Pagod is a fair Chappel, all guild∣ed within side; where they find a Lamb, and three Wax Candles continually burning before the Altar, which is all over cover'd with Idols, some of massie Gold, others of Copper guilt. In the Pagod in the midst of the Town, and one in of those to which the King goes once a year, there are above four thousand Idols; and for that which is six Leagues from Siam, it is surround∣ed with Pyramids, whose beauty makes the industry of that Nation to be admir'd.

When the King appears, all the Doors and Windows of the Houses must be shut; and all the people prostrate themselves upon the ground, not da∣ring to lift up their eyes. And because no person is to be in a higher place than the King, they that are within doors, are bound to keep their lowest Rooms. When he cuts his hair, one of his Wives performs that office, for he will not suffer a Barber to come near him.

This Prince has a passionate kindness for his Elephants; which he looks upon as his Favourites, and the Ornaments of his Kingdom. If there be any of them that fall sick, the Lords of the Court are mighty careful to please their Soveraign; and if they happ'n to dye, they are buried with the same Funeral Pomp as the Nobles of the Kingdom; which are thus performed: They set up a kind of Mausoleum, or Tomb of Reeds, cover'd with Paper; in the midst whereof they lay as much sweet wood as the body weighs, and after the Priests have mumbl'd certain Orisons, they set it a-fire, and burn it to ashes; which the rich preserve in Gold or Silver Urns, but the poor scatter in the wind. As for offenders, they never burn, but bury them.

'Tis thought that in this Kingdom there are above two hundred Priests, which they call Bonzes, which are highly reverenc'd as well at Court as among the people. The King himself has such a value for some of them, as to hum∣ble himself before them. This extraordinary respect makes them so proud, that some of them have aspir'd to the Throne. But when the King discovers

any such design, he puts them to death. And one of them had his head lately struck off for his Ambition.

These Bonzes wear yellow, with a little red Cloth about their Wasts, like a Girdle. Outwardly they are very modest, and are never seen to be angry. About four in the morning, upon the tolling of their Bells, they rise to their prayers, which they repeat again toward evening. There are some days in the year when they retire from all converse with men. Some of them live by Alms; others have Houses with good Revenues. While they wear the Ha∣bit of Bonzes, they must not marry; for if they do, they must lay their Ha∣bit aside. They are generally very ignorant, not knowing what they believe. Yet they hold the transmigration of Souls into several Bodies. They are forbidd to kill any Creature; yet they will make no scruple to eat what others kill, or that which dies of it self. They say that the God of the Christians and theirs were Brothers; but that theirs was the eldest. If you ask them where their God is, they say, he vanish'd away, and they know not where he is.

The chief strength of the Kingdom is their Infantry, which is indifferent good; the Soldiers are us'd to hardship, going all quite naked, except their private parts; all the rest of their body, looking as if it had been cupt, is carv'd into several shapes of beasts and flowers. When they have cut their skins, and stanch'd the blood, they rub the cut-work with such colours as they think most proper. So that afar off you would think they were clad in some kind of flower'd Satin or other; for the colours never rub out. Their weapons are Bows and Arrows, Pike and Musket, and an Azagaya, or Staff between five and six foot long with a long Iron Spike at the end, which they very dextrously dart at the Enemy.

In the year 1665, there was at Siam a Neapolitan Jesuite, who was call'd Father Thomas; he caus'd the Town and the Kings Palace to be fortifi'd with very good Bulwarks, according to Art; for which reason the King gave him leave to live in the City, where he has a House and a little Church.

CHAP. XIX. Of the Kingdom of Macassar; and the Embassadors which the Hollanders sent into China.

THE Kingdom of Macassar, otherwise call'd the Isle of Celebes, begins at the fifteenth Degree of Southern Latitude. The heats are excessive all the day; but the nights are temperate enough. And for the Soil, it is very fertile; but the people have not the art of building. The Capital City bears the name of the Kingdom, and is situated upon the Sea. The Port is free; for the Vessels that bring great quantities of goods from the adjacent Islands, pay no Customs. The Islanders have a custom to poyson their Arrows; and the most dangerous poyson which they use, is the juice of certain Trees in the Island of Borneo; which they will temper so as to work swift or slow, as they please. They hold that the King has only the secret Receit to take away the force of it; who boasts that he has the most effectual poyson in the world, which there is no remedy can prevent.

One day an English man in heat of blood had kill'd one of the Kings of Macassars Subjects; and though the King had pardon'd him, yet both English, Hollanders, and Portugals fearing if the English man should go unpunish'd, lest the Islanders should revenge themselves upon some of them, besought the King to put him to death; which with much ado being consented to, the King un∣willing to put him to a lingring death, and desirous to shew the effect of his poyson, resolv'd to shoot the Criminal himself; whereupon he took a long Trunk, and shot him exactly into the great Toe of the right foot, the place particularly aim'd at. Two Chirurgeons, one an English man, and the other a Hollander,

provided on purpose, immediately cut off the member; but for all that, the poyson had dispers'd it self so speedily, that the English man dy'd at the same time. All the Kings and Princes of the East are very diligent in their enquiry after strong poysons. And I remember that the chief of the Dutch Factory and I try'd several poyson'd Arrows, with which the King of Achen had presented him, by shooting at Squirrels, who fell down dead, as soon as ever they were touch'd.

The King of Macassar is a Mahometan, and will not suffer his Subjects to embrace Christianity. Yet in the year 1656, the Christians found a way to get leave to build a fair Church in Macassar. But the next year the King caus'd it to be pull'd down, as also that of the Dominican Friars, which the Portugals made use of. The Parish Church, which was under the Government of the secular Priests, stood still, till the Hollanders attack'd Macassar, and compell'd him to turn all the Portugals out of his Dominions. The ill conduct of that Prince was in part the occasion of that war; to which the Hollanders were mov'd, to revenge themselves upon the Portugal Jesuites, who had cross'd their Em∣bassy to China. Besides, that they offer'd great affronts to the Hollanders at Macassar, especially when they trod under foot the Hat of one of the Dutch Envoys, who was sent to treat with the King in behalf of the Company. There∣upon the Hollanders resolv'd to unite their forces with the Bouquises, that were in rebellion against their Soveraign, and to revenge themselves at any rate.

Now as to the business of China, it happen'd thus: Toward the end of the year 1658, the General of Batavia and his Council, sent one of the chief of the Holland Company with Presents to the King of China; who arriving at Court, labour'd to gain the friendship of the Mandarins, who are the Nobility of the Kingdom. But the Jesuites, who by reason of their long abode in the Country, understood the language, and were acquainted with the Lords of the the Court, lest the Holland Company should get footing to the prejudice of the Portugals, represented several things to the Kings Council to the prejudice of the Hollanders; more especially charging them with breach of Faith in all the places where they came. Upon this the Holland Agent was dismiss'd, and departed out of China without doing any feats. Afterwards coming to under∣stand what a trick the Portugal Jesuites had put upon him, he made report thereof to the General and his Council at Batavia; which so incens'd them, that they resolv'd to be reveng'd. For by the Deputies accounts, the Em∣bassy had cost them above fifty thousand Crowns; for which they consulted how to make the Portugals pay double. Understanding therefore the trade which the Jesuits drove in the Island of Macao, and to the Kingdom of Ma∣cassar, whither upon their own account they sent seven Vessels, laden with all sorts of Commodities, as well of India as China; they took their opportunity, and the seventh of June 1660, appear'd with a Fleet of thirty Sail before the Port of Macassar. The King thinking himself oblig'd to make defence against so potent an Enemy, endeavour'd to sustain the brunt of the Hollander with the Portugal Ships in the Road; but the Hollander dividing their Fleet, part of them fought the Portugal, the other half batter'd the Royal Fortress so furiously, that they carry'd it in a short time. Which so terrifi'd the King, that he commanded the Portugals not to fire any more for fear of farther pro∣voking his Enemies. The Prince Patinsaloa was slain in the fight, which was a great loss to the King of Macassar, who was become formidable to his neigh∣bours by the good Conduct of that Minister. As for the Hollanders, they took, burnt, and sunk all the Portugal Vessels, and sufficiently re-imburs'd themselves for their China Expences.

The thirteenth of June the King of Macassar, whose name was Sumbaco, hung out a white Flag from another Tower, whence he beheld the fight en∣viron'd by his Wives. During the truce, he sent one of the Grandees of his Court to the Dutch Admiral, to desire peace, which was granted, upon con∣dition he should send an Embassador to Batavia, expel the Portugals out of the Island, and not permit his Subjects to have any more to do with them.

Thereupon the King of Macassar sent eleven of the greatest Lords of his Court, with a train of seven hundred men; the Chief of the Embassy being

the Prince of Patinsaloa. The first thing they did, was to pay two hundred Loaves of Gold to redeem the Royal Fortress again; and then submitting to the Con∣ditions which the Dutch Admiral had propos'd, the General of Batavia sign'd the Articles, which were punctually observ'd. For the Portugals immediately quitted the Country, some departing for Siam and Cambòya, others for Macoa and Goa. Macao, formerly one of the most famous and richest Cities of the Orient, was the principal motive that enclin'd the Hollanders to send an Em∣bassadour into China; for being the best station which the Portugals had in all those parts, the Dutch had a design to win it wholly. Now, this City, lying in twenty-two Degrees of Northern Latitude, in a small Island next to the Province of Kanton, which is a part of China, has very much lost its former luster.

But this was not all which the Jesuits and the Portugal Merchants suffer'd. The Chief of the Dutch Factory at Mingrela, which is but eight Leagues from this City, understanding the bad success of the Dutch in China, had a contri∣vance by himself to be reveng'd. He knew that the Jesuites of Goa and other places, drove a great trade in rough Diamonds, which they sent into Europe, or else carry'd along with them when they return'd; and that for the more private carrying on of their trade, they were wont to send one or two of their Order, that knew the language, in the habit of a Faquir, which consists of a Tygers Skin to cover their back-parts, and a Goats Skin to cover the breast, reaching down to the knees. Thereupon the Chief of the Factory of Mingrela taking his opportunity, and having notice that two of the suppos'd Faquirs were gone to the Mines, to lay out 400000 Pardo's in Diamonds, gave order to two men, which he had fee'd for the purpose, that as soon as the Fathers had made their purchase, he should give notice to the Officer of the Custom-House at Bicholi.

Bicholi is a great Town upon the Frontiers of those Lands that part the Kingdom of Visapour from the Territories of the Portugals; there being no other way to pass the River, which encompasses the Island where the City of Goa is built.

The Fathers believing that the Customer knew nothing of their purchase, went into the Boat to go over the River; but as soon as they were in, they were strictly search'd, and all their Diamonds confiscated.

To return to the King of Macassar; you must know, that the Jesuits once endeavour'd to convert him; and perhaps they might have brought it to pass, had they not neglected one proposal which he made them. For at the same time that the Jesuits labour'd to bring him to Christianity, the Mahumetans us'd all their endeavours to oblige him to stick to their Law. The King willing to leave his Idolatry, yet not knowing which part to take, commanded the Mahumetans to send for two or three of their most able Moulla's, or Doctors from Mecca; and the Jesuits he order'd to send him as many of the most learned among them, that he might be instructed in both Religions; which they both promis'd to do. But the Mahometans were more diligent then the Christians, for in eight months they fetch'd from Mecca two learned Moulla's; whereupon the King seeing that the Jesuits sent no body to him, embrac'd the Mahumetan Law. True it is, that three years after there came two Portugal Jesuits, but then it was too late.

The King of Macassar being thus become a Mahumetan, the Prince his Bro∣ther was so mad at it, that when the Mosquee, which the King had caus'd to be built, was finish'd, he got into it one night, and causing the throats of two Pigs to be cut, he all besmear'd the walls of the new Mosquee, and the place which was appointed for the Moulia to perform Divine Service with the blood; so that the King was forc'd to pull down that, and build another. After which the Prince with some Idolatrous Lords stole out of the Island, and never since appear'd at Court.

CHAP. XX. The Author pursues his Travels into the East, and embarks at Min∣grela for Batavia. The danger he was in upon the Sea; and his arrival in the Island of Ceylan.

I Departed from Mingrela, a great Town in the Kingdom of Visapour, eight Leagues from Goa, the fourteenth of April, 1648, and embark'd in a Dutch Vessel bound for Batavia. The Ship had orders to touch at Bokanour, to take in Rice. Whereupon I went ashore with the Captain, to obtain leave of the King to buy Rice. We found him upon the shore, where he had about a do∣zen Huts set up, which were cover'd with Palm-leaves. In his own Hut there was a piece of Persian Tapestry spread under him, and there we saw five or six women, some fanning him with Peacocks Feathers, others giving him Betlé, others filling him his Pipe of Tobacco. The most considerable persons of the Country were in the other Huts; and we counted about two hundred men that were upon the Guard, arm'd only with Bows and Arrows. They had also two Elephants among 'em. 'Tis very probable, that his Palace was not far off, and that he only came thither to take the fresh air. There we were pre∣sented with Tari or Palm-wine; but being new, and not boil'd, it caus'd the head-ach in all that drank it, insomuch that we were two days before we could recover it. I ask'd the reason, how the Wine came to do us so much prejudice; to which they answer'd me, that it was the Planting of Pepper about the Palm∣trees, that gave such a strength to the Wine.

We were no sooner got aboard, but a mighty tempest arose, wherein the Ship, men, and goods had all like to have been cast away, being near the shore; but at length, the wind changing, we found our selves by break of day three or four Leagues at Sea, having lost all our Anchors; and at length came safe to Port in the Haven of Ponté de Galle, the twelfth of May.

I found nothing remarkable in that City; there being nothing but the ruins made by the underminings and Canon-shot, when the Hollanders besieg'd it, and chas'd the Portugals from thence. The Company allow'd ground to build upon, to them that would inhabit there, and land to till; and had then rais'd two Bulwarks which commanded the Port. If they have finish'd the design which they undertook, the place cannot but be very considerable.

The Hollanders, before they took all the places which the Portugals had in the Island of Ceylan, did believe that the trade of this Island would have brought them in vast sums, could they but be sole Masters of it; and perhaps their conjectures might have been true, had they not broken their words with the King of Candy, who is the King of the Country; but breaking faith with him, they lost themselves in all other places thereabouts.

The Hollanders had made an agreement with the King of Candy, that he should be always ready with twenty thousand men, to keep the passages that hinder the Portugals from bringing any succours from Colombo, Negombe, Ma∣nar, or any other places which they possessed upon the Coast. In con∣sideration whereof the Hollanders, when they had taken Ponte Galle, were to restore it to the King of Candy; which they not performing, the King sent to know why they did not give him possession of the Town; to which they return'd answer, that they were ready to do it, provided he would defray the expences of the war, But they knew, that if he had had three Kingdoms more, such as his own, he could never have payd so great a sum. I must confess indeed the Country is very poor, for I do not believe that the King ever saw fifty thou∣sand Crowns together in his life; his trade being all in Cinnamon and Elephants. As for his Cinnamon, he has no profit of it since the Portugals coming into the East Indies. And for his Elephants, he makes but little of them; for they take not above five or six in a year; but they are more esteem'd than any other Country Elephants, as being the most couragious in war. One thing I

will tell you hardly to be believ'd, but that which is a certain truth, which is, that when any other King or Raja has one of these Elephants of Ceylan, if they bring him among any other breed in any other place whatever, so soon as the other Elephants behold the Ceylan Elephants, by an instinct of na∣ture, they do him reverence, laying their trunks upon the ground, and raising them up again.

The King of Achen, with whom the Hollanders also broke their word, had more opportunity to be reveng'd upon them then the King of Candy. For he deni'd them the transportation of Pepper out of his Country, without which their trade was worth little. His Pepper being that which is most coveted by the East. So that they were forc'd to make a composition with him. The King of Achens Embassador coming to Batavia, was strangely surpriz'd to see wo∣men sitting at the Table; but much more, when after a health drank to the Queen of Achen, the General of Batavia commanded his Wife to go and kiss the Embassador. Nor was the King behind hand with the Dutch Embassador another way; whom the King beholding in a languishing distemper, ask'd him whether he had never any familiarity with any of the Natives. Yes, replied the Embassador; however I left her to marry in my own Country. Upon that the King commanded three of his Physicians to cure him in fifteen days, upon the forfeiture of their lives. Thereupon they gave him a certain potion every morning, and a little Pill at night; and at the end of nine days he took a great Vomit. Every body thought he would have dy'd with the working of it; but at length it brought up a stopple of course hair, as big as a nut; after which he presently recover'd. At his departure the King gave him a Flint about the bigness of a Goose Egg, with veins of Gold in it, like the veins of a mans hand, as the Gold grows in that Country.

CHAP. XXI. The Authors departure from Ceylan, and his arrival at Batavia.

THE twenty-fifth of May we set fail from Ponte Galle. The second of June we pass'd the Line. The sixth we saw the Island call'd Nazaco's. The seventeenth we discover'd the Coast of Sumatra, the eighteenth the Island of Ingamina, and the nineteenth the Island of Fortune. The twentieth we were in ken of certain little Islands, and the Coast of Java; among which Islands there are three call'd the Islands of the Prince. The one and twentieth we dis∣cover'd Bantam, and the two and twentieth we anchor'd in the Road of Ba∣tavia.

There are two Councils in Batavia, the Council of the Fort, where the Ge∣neral presides, and where all the affairs of the Company are manag'd. The other which is held in a House in the City, and relates to the Civil Government, and decides the petty differences among the Citizens.

All the kindness I had shew'n me here, was to be prosecuted by the City Council, for being suspected to have bought a parcel of Diamonds for Moun∣sieur Constant, my very good Friend, and President of the Dutch Factory at Gomron; but when they could make nothing of it, they ceas'd their suit, a∣sham'd of what they had done.

CHAP. XXII. The Author goes to visit the King of Bantam, and relates several Adventures upon that occasion.

BEing so ill treated in Batavia, I resolv'd to visit the King of Bantam; to which purpose I took my own Brother along with me, because he spoke the Language call'd Malaye; which in the East is as universal as Latin among us. Being arriv'd at Bantam in a small Bark, which we hir'd for our selves; we went first and visited the English President, who kindly entertain'd and lodg'd us.

The next day I sent my Brother to the Palace, to know when it would be seasonable for me to come and kiss the Kings Hands. When the King saw him (for he was well known to him) he would not suffer him to return, but sent others to fetch me, and to tell me withall, that if I had any rare Jewels, I should do him a kindness to bring them along with me.

When I saw my Brother return'd not with the persons which the King sent, I was almost in the mind not to have gone; remembring how the King of A∣chen had serv'd the Sieur Renaud. For the French having set up an East India Company, sent away four Vessels, three great ones, and one of eight Guns, for the service of the Company. Their Voyage was the shortest that ever was heard of; arriving at Bantam in less than four months. The King also cour∣teously receiv'd them, and let them have as much Pepper as they desir'd, and cheaper by twenty in the hundred then he sold it to the Hollanders. But the French not coming only for Pepper, sent away their small Ship with the greatest part of their Money to Macassar, to try the Market for Cloves, Nut∣megs, and Mace.

The French being so soon dispatch'd at Bantam, had not patience to stay till the return of the small Vessel which they had sent to Macassar; but to pass the time, must needs run over to Batavia, being not above fourteen Leagues off; so that you may be at Batavia from Bantam in a tide with a good wind. When they came to an Anchor, the General of the French Fleet sent to Complement the General of Batavia, who fail'd not to answer his ci∣vility, and invited the Admiral ashore. Moreover he sent to those that stay'd aboard, great store of excellent chear, and a good quantity of Spanish and Rhenish Wine, with particular order to them that carry'd it, to make the French drunk. His order was so well follow'd, that 'twas easie to set the Ships on fire, according to the private instructions which they had. So soon as the flame was discover'd from the Generals window, which overlook'd all the Road, there was a wonderful pretended astonishment among the Dutch. But the French Ad∣miral too truly conjecturing the ground and Authors of the treachery, behold∣ing the company with an undaunted courage; Come, come, cry'd he, lets drink on; they that set the Ships a-fire shall pay for'em. However the French Ships were all burn't, though the men were all sav'd in Boats which were forth∣with sent to their relief. After that, the General of Batavia made them great offers, which they refus'd, and return'd to Batavia, in expectation of their small Vessel. When it return'd, they could find out no better way then to sell Ship, and goods, and all to the English, and to share the Money among themselves, every one according to their condition.

But the trick which they put upon the English was far more bloody. The English were the first that found out the danger of sailing from Surat, Masli∣patan, or any other distant parts, to Japon without touching by the way. Whereupon they thought it convenient to build a Fort in the Island of For∣mosa, which not only sav'd the loss of several Vessels, but also brought them in great gain. The Hollanders mad that the English were possess'd of such an advantageous scituation, being the only place in all the Island where Vessels could ride in safety; and finding they could not carry it by force, bethought

themselves of a Stratagem; to which purpose they sent away two Ships, where∣in they stor'd the best of their Souldiers, who pretending they had been in a storm in Sea, put into the Harbour of Formosa, with some of their Masts by the board, their Sails scatter'd, and their Seamen seemingly sick. The English compassionating their miseries, which was only in outward appearance, invited the chief of them to come ashore to refresh themselves; which they were very ready to do, carrying as many men with them as possibly they could under pretence of sickness. While the chief of them were at Dinner with the chief of the English, they all ply'd their Cups; and when the Dutch saw the English had drunk hard enough, taking their opportunity, they pickt a quar∣rel with the Commander of the Fort, and drawing their Swords, which they had hidden under their Coats for that purpose, they easily surpriz'd and cut all the throats of the Soldiers in the Garrison; and being thus Masters of the Fort, they kept it from that time till they were routed out by the Chineses.

Now for the trick that the King of Achen serv'd the Sieur Renaud; he ha∣ving got a good Estate by Jewels, arriv'd at length at Achen, and as it is the custom for the Merchants to shew the King what Jewels they have, the King had no sooner cast his eye upon four Rings which the Sieur Renaud shew'd him, but he bid him fifteen thousand Crowns for them; but Renaud would not bate of eighteen thousand. Now because they could not agree, the Sieur Renaud carry'd them away with him, which very much displeas'd the King; however he sent for him the next day. Whereupon Renaud returning to him, the King paid him his eighteen thousand Crowns; but he was never seen after that, and it is thought he was secretly murther'd in the Palace.

This story came to my remembrance, when I found my Brother did not come along with those that were sent to fetch me. However I resolv'd to go, taking with me 12 or 13000 Roupies worth of Jewels; the greatest part be∣ing in Rose Diamond Rings, some consisting of seven, some of nine, and some of eleven Stones; with some small Bracelets of Diamonds and Rubies. I found the King with three of his Captains and my Brother sitting together, after the manner of the East, with five great Plates of Rice before them of divers colours. For their drink they had Spanish Wine, strong Waters, and several sorts of Sherbets. Af∣ter I had complemented the King, and presented him with a Diamond Ring, a blew Saphir Ring, and a little Bracelet of Diamonds, Rubies, and blew Sa∣phirs, he commanded me to sit down, and order'd me a glass of strong Wa∣ter to whet my appetite. The glass held a quarter of a pint, and therefore I refus'd it, which the King very much wonder'd at; but being told by my Bro∣ther, that I never drank any strong Water, he order'd me presently a glass of Sack.

After that he rose up, and seated himself in a Chair, the Elbows whereof were guilded. His feet and legs were bare, having a Persian Carpet of Gold and Silk to tread upon. He was clad with a piece of Calicut, part whereof cover'd his body from his waste to his knees, the rest being wound about his back and shoulders like a Scarf. Instead of Shoes he had a pair of Sandals, that stood by the Chair side, the straps whereof were embroider'd with Gold and small Pearl. About his head he had a thing like a Handkerchief, with three Corners, bound about his head like a Fillet. His hair also, which was very long, was twisted and ty'd together over his head. Two persons stood behind him with great Fans of long Peacock Feathers, the handles whereof were five or six foot in length. Upon his right hand stood an old black woman, holding in her hand a little Mortar and a Pestle of Gold, to beat his Betlé in; where∣with he mix'd the Kernel of the Nut of Araqué, and Seed Pearl dissolv'd. When it was all beaten together, the old woman gave it the King over his Shoulders, who opening his mouth, the old woman sed him as our women feed their Children. For the King had chaw'd so much Betlé, and ta∣ken so much Tobacco, that his teeth were all fall'n out of his head.

The King of Bantam's Palace was never built by any curious Architect. It is a square place, encompass'd with a great many Pillars, varnish'd over with se∣veral sorts of colours, against which the King leans when he sits down. At the four Corners there are four great Pillars set in the Earth, at forty foot distance

the one from the other, lin'd with a Mat made of the Rhind of a certain Tree, so thin that it looks like a piece of Linnen, which neither Fleas nor Punies will come near. The Roof was cover'd with Coco-Branches. Not far off, under another Roof supported with four great Pillars, he had sixteen Elephants, the noblest of all those that are in the Kings service: for he has a far greater num∣ber train'd up for war, that are not afraid of wild-fire. For his Guard he might have about two thousand men, that were drawn up in Companies under the shade of the next Trees. They are good Souldiers as well by Sea as by Land; great Mahometans, and stand not at all in fear of death. His Haram, or the Womens Apartment, was certainly a very small place. For when he had view'd what I brought him, he sent for two old women, to whom he gave some of the Jewels, to go and shew them to his Wives. The two women return'd back through a little pitiful door; the enclosure being nothing but a kind of Wall made up of Earth and Cow-dung mix'd together. Whatever he sent to the Women, they never return'd any thing again. Which made me believe they would bear a good price; and indeed whatever I sold to him, I sold to good profit, and had my Money well paid me. After this we took our leaves; but the King oblig'd us to come next day in the evening, because he had a desire to shew us a Turky Dagger, the Haft whereof, being thin of Diamonds, he had a mind to enrich with more Stones. Coming to the English House with our Money, they wonder'd that the King had laid out twenty thousand Roupies, telling me, they believ'd it was the best part of his treasure.

The next day my Brother and I went to wait upon him at the appointed hour, and we found him sitting in the same place where he sate before. There was a Moulla then read to him, who seem'd to interpret to him something of the Alcoran in the Arabick Language. The Lecture being ended, they both rose and went to prayers; which being concluded, the King sent for the Dag∣ger and the Hast which was of Gold. The top of the Handle was already set with Diamonds, and upon the upper part of the cross Bar was cut in Fa∣cets, which could not be less worth than fifteen or sixteen thousand Crowns. The King told me, it was presented to him by the Queen of Borneo, and that it was cut at Goa; but that he put a far higher value upon it than I esteem'd it to be worth. The Dagger, as well as the Sheath was full of Beazils, or Collets, in very good order; but the King had neither Diamond, Ruby, nor any other Stone to set in the Collets; and therefore desir'd me to help him to some that might come at an easie rate. I told him it was impossible to find Stones that would fit the Beazils; and therefore that it was better, when he had got Stones enough, to fix other Beazils according to the proportion of the Stones. To which purpose he was first to range all his Stones in Wax; which I shew'd him how to do at the same time; but that was above his skill. And therefore do what I could to excuse my self to the contrary, he would needs oblige me to carry the Dagger to Batavia; whereupon I took my leave of the King, and departed.

CHAP. XXIII. The Authors return to Batavia. His re-visiting the King of Ban∣tam. And a relation of several Extravagancies of certain Fa∣quirs in their return from Mecca.

ABout elev'n a Clock at night we embark'd for Batavia; for the night winds blowing from the Land, are the only winds to serve out turn; so that we were at Batavia between ten and elev'n the next morning. There I stay'd twenty days for the King of Bantam's sake, to make him believe I had sought for that which I knew was impossible to to be found. I had nothing to do all the while, for in Batavia there is no other recreation than gaming and drinking, which was none of my business. At that time the Sieur Cant dy'd, one of the Indian Counsellors, who was sumptuously buri'd for his good services done to the Company; but the people complain'd heavily of the in∣justice which he had done as well to the Souldiers as Mariners.

Having stay'd twenty days at Bantam, I resolv'd to go and return the King of Bantam his Dagger again; for it was impossible to meet with Stones to fit his Beazils. However I took along with me some other Stones which he had not seen. Coming to Bantam, the King caus'd us to be lodg'd in one of his own Houses in the City, which was made of Bamboo's. Thither in less then a quarter of an hour, the King sent us some Pateches, or sweet Water-Melons, red within like Scarlet. We had also Mango's, and a certain large Fruit call'd Pompone, red also within, the meat of it being soft and spungy, but of an excellent taste. Having stay'd our stomachs, we went to wait upon the King, whom we found in the same place, with his old Mortar-bearer, who every foot fed him with Betlé with her fingers. There were sitting about the Hall five or six of his Captains, viewing a certain parcel of Fire-works, as Gra∣nado's, Rochets, and other devices to run upon the water, which the Chi∣neses had brought; who are the most exquisite at those sports of any people in the world. When the King was at leisure, I return'd him his Dagger, tel∣ling him, that Batavia was no place to meet with Stones; and that such as were to be found, were valu'd at double the price they were worth; and that there was no place where he could fit himself, but at Golconda, Goa, or the Diamond Mines. Thereupon the old woman took the Dagger, and carry'd it in∣to his Haram; nor did the King speak a word more about it. After that I shew'd him what other Stones I had brought, a parcel whereof I sold him to good profit; the King ordering us to come the next day for payment.

The next day about six a Clock in the morning, my Brother and I, and a Dutch Chirurgion, were going along a narrow way, between a River on the one hand, and the Pales of a great Garden on the other. Behind the Pales a Rascally Bantamois had hid himself; one of those that was newly come from Mecca, and was upon the design of Moquae; that is, in their Language, when the Rascality of the Mahumetans return from Mecca, they presently take their Cric in their hands, which is a kind of Poniard, the Blade whereof is half poyson'd; with which they run through the streets, and kill all those which are not of the Mahumetan Law, till they be kill'd themselves. These Furies think that in so doing they do God and Mahomet good service, and shall be sav'd thereby. If any of these madmen be kill'd, the Rabble of Mahumetans buries them as Saints, and every one contributes to make them a fair Tomb. Sometimes you shall have an idle Rogue, in the Habit of a Dervich, that will build him a Hut near the Tomb, which he undertakes to look to, and strew with Flowers. And as his Alms increase, he adds some other ornament to it. For the fairer and better set out the Tomb is, the more devoutly it is wor∣ship'd, and the more Alms it brings in. I remember in the year 1642, that at Souali, which is the Port of Surat, it happen'd that a Vessel of the great Moguls return'd from Mecca, with a great number of Faquirs or Dervichs. For

every year the King sends two Vessels to carry and bring back the Pilgrims, who have their passage free. And when these Vessels are to go, the Faquirs come from all parts of India to embark. These Vessels are lad'n with very good Commodities, which are sold at Mecca, and the profit is distributed among the poor Pilgrims. But the principal is brought back for the next year, amounting to six hundred thousand Roupies at least. 'Tis an ill Market when they do not gain 30 or 40 per Cent. by their Commodities; nay there are some that produce Cent. per Cent. besides, that the principal persons of the Moguls Haram, and other particular persons, send very large gifts to Mecca.

One of these Faquirs returning from Mecca in the year 1642, and being landed at Souali, had no sooner said his prayers, but he took his Dagger, and ran among several Dutch Mariners that were unlading goods upon the shore, and before they were aware this mad Faquir had wounded seventeen of them, of which thirteen dy'd. The Canjare which he had in his hand, was a kind of Dagger, the Blade whereof toward the Handle was three fingers broad; and because it is a very dangerous weapon, I have here given you the figure of it.

[illustration]

At length the Sentinel that stood at the entry of the Tent where the Gover∣nour and Merchants were, shot him through the body, so that he fell down dead. Immediately all the other Faquirs and Mahumetans that were upon the place took up the body and buried it: and at the end of fifteen days they put him up a fair Monument. Every year the English and Hollanders pull it down; but when they are gone, the Faquirs set it up again, and plant Banners over it; nay some there are that perform their devotions to it.

But to return to the Bantam Faquir. That Villain lying, as I said, behind the Pales, as my Brother and I, and the Dutch Chirurgeon came toward him, all three a-breast, thrust his Pike between the Pales, thinking to have astbb'd it into one of our breasts. The Dutch man being next the River, and somewhat be∣fore the rest, the head of his Pike ran into his Breeches; whereupon we both laid hold of the Staff. But my Brother being next the Pales, presently leap'd over, and ran the Faquir thorough. Whereupon several Chineses, and other Idolaters, came and gave my Brother thanks for killing him. After that we waited upon the King, and told him what my Brother had done; who was so far from being displeas'd, that he gave my Brother a Girdle. For the King and his Governours are glad when those Rogues are slain, knowing them to be Desperado's, not fit to live.

The next day, coming to take my leave of the English President, he shew'd me two strings of Diamonds, and two Services of Silver, which came from England. He would have sold them all, but I only bought one of the strings of Diamonds, the other being foul; and for the Silver, I would have bought it, had they coin'd Silver in Batavia, as they were wont to do. Formerly the Hol∣landers coin'd Reals, Half-Reals, and Quarter-Reals, bearing on the one side the stamp of a Ship, on the other V, O, C, like a Character, as in the Figure, signifying in Dutch, Vor Ost Indian Compagnie, for the East Indian Company. Which they did for the sake of the Chineses, who loving Silver better than Gold, carri'd away all the Silver that was coin'd at Batavia, at good rates. But length they left it off, finding so few people that made use of Silver.

[illustration]

CHAP. XXIV. Of the War of the Hollanders with the Emperor of Java.

HAving taken my leave of the English President, I return'd to Batavia; where having little to do, I resolv'd to give a visit to the King of Japar, otherwise call'd the Emperor of Java. This King was formerly King of all the Island, till the King of Bantam, who was only Governour of a Province, rebell'd against him; the Hollanders being made by the divisions of those two Princes. For when the King of Japar besieg'd Batavia, the King of Bantam reliev'd the Hollanders; and when they were attack'd by the King of Bantam, the King of Japar came to their assistance. And when those two Kings were together by the ears, the Hollanders always aided the weakest.

The King of Japar keeps his Court in a City of the same name, distant from Batavia some thirty Leagues. You may coast along the shore to it by Sea; but the City stands above eight Leagues up in the Land. From the City there is a fine Walk to the Sea, where there is a handsome Port, and fairer Houses than any in the City. And the King would live there if he thought it safe.

The day before I departed, I went to take my leave of one of the Indian Counsellors, and telling him that I was going to wait upon the King of Japar, he stood amaz'd, in regard the King and the Hollanders were mortal Enemies; of which he gave me this account: The deceas'd King, Father to the King that now reigns, since the Hollanders built their Fort of Batavia would never have any peace with them. And though that during the war the Hollanders took ten of his Subjects, for one of theirs, and offer'd ten for one in exchange, yet he would never exchange one upon any condition whatsoever, and charg'd his Son upon his death-bed never to release one. This obstinacy very much trou∣bl'd the Dutch General, and all the rest in Batavia, and oblig'd them to con∣sult upon ways how to right themselves Now it is the custom, when a Ma∣hometan King dyes, that his Successor sends certain great Lords of his Court∣to Mecca with Presents, as well to engage them to pray for the Soul of the deceas'd; as also to give thanks to God and Mahomet for the coming of a new King to the Throne without any impediment; and to pray for the blessing of Victory over all his Enemies. But the new King and his Council were at a loss how to accomplish this Voyage; for first the King had none but little Vessels, that were wont only to sail along by the shore, by reason of the in∣experience of his Seamen; and in the second place the Dutch were always ply∣ing to and fro about the mouths of his Havens, to surprize his Subjects if they stirr'd forth. For the safety therefore of his Pilgrims, the King at last con∣cludes upon making an agreement with the English. For which reason he dis∣patches away an Envoy to Bantam, to the English President and his Council, who promis'd to lend him the biggest Vessel and the best mounted which the Com∣pany had in the Indies. In lieu whereof the English were to pay but half Customs for ever, for all Commodities exported or imported out of his Country. Which Treaty being ratifi'd, the English furnish'd him with three stout Vessels, Mann'd and Gunn'd beyond an ordinary rate. Thereupon nine of the principal Lords of the Court, and most of the Blood Royal, with a Train of a hundred persons, embark'd themselves in the great Vessel. But all these preparations could not be carri'd so privately, but that the Dutch had intelligence of it by their Spies. Thereupon the General of the Dutch makes ready three Ships, and lying just in the streight of Bantams mouth; so soon as the English came up, (for they had no other way) let fly at them so roundly, that the English fearing lest their Vessels would be sunk, struck Sail; which the Java Lords seeing, call'd the Eng∣lish Traytors, and drawing their poyson'd Daggers, cry'd a Mocca upon the Eng∣lish, killing a great number of them before they had time to put themselves into a posture of defence. And perhaps there would not one of them have escap'd, had not the Hollanders come aboard as they did. Some of the Java Lords, and about

twenty of their Attendants, would take no quarter; so that the Hollanders were forc'd to fight for't, and at last they got the better, with the loss of seven or eight men. The English Vessel being carri'd into Batavia, the General very ci∣villy sent both the Prisoners and the Vessel home again; withall giving notice to the King, that he was ready to make an exchange of Prisoners with him. But the King would not so much as Hearken to any such proposition; returning for answer, that though the Hollanders had three times as many of his Sub∣jects, he would not release so much as one Hollander. So that the poor Dutch were kept slaves in Java, and the Javanners dy'd miserable in Batavia.

As for the Javanners, they are good Souldiers. And it is reported, that while Batavia was besieg'd by the King of Bantam in the year 1659, a Dutch Soul∣dier lying in Ambuscade in a Marsh, a Javanner, little dreaming that any body had been there, came to the same place to discover the Enemy; and was by the Dutch man thrust with his Pike into his Body. Upon which the Javanner find∣ing himself wounded, did not strive to pull the Pike out of the body, but thrust himself farther upon it, to the end he might come at his Enemy, whom he stab'd to the heart, as soon as he got within his reach.

CHAP. XXV. The Author buries his Brother; and is again quarrel'd withall by by the General and his Council.

WHile I stay'd at Batavia, my Brother dy'd; and it was pretty to con∣sider what the Dutch made me pay for his Funeral. The first expence is for the Fees of those that beg leave for the Corps to be buri'd; of whom the more there are, the more honourable the Funeral is esteem'd. I sent six, and paid them to my wonder for that seventy-two Crowns. The see for the Pall is a right that belongs to the poor, for which I paid two Crowns. There was a Vessel of Spanish Wine drank out, that cost me two hundred Piasters. I gave twenty-six more for three Westphalia Hams, and some Neats-tongues, and twenty-two for Bak'd Meats. To the Bearers I gave twenty Crowns, and six∣teen for a place in the Church-yard, for they ask'd me a hundred to bury him in the Church. And all these are Fee's demanded. So that my Brothers Funeral cost me twelve hundred and twenty three Livres of French Mo∣ney.

Being thus put by the two Voyages which I intended to Japan and Sumatra, I was advis'd to lay out my Money in Requenings or Debentures of the Servants of the Holland Company; which they that have no mind to return into their own Country, as being setled in the Indies, will sell at an easie rate; insomuch, that for sixty or seventy you may buy a hundred Piasters; the Act and Ac∣quittance of the Seller being made and register'd by the Publick Notary. There∣upon I bought of one of the publick Notaries, who had Bills in his hands, to the value of about eleven thousand Guelders, at fourscore and two for the hun∣dred. After that, I bought by means of the Advocate of the Treasury, six thousand Guelders more, at seventy-nine for the hundred. But some few days after, meeting with the same Advocate again, he pass'd a Complement upon me, and told me, he was very much troubl'd for those that had bought De∣bentures, in regard that the General and the Council had commanded him to recall all Debentures that had been sold; for they had consider'd, how sad a thing it would be, for the poor men to lose so much of their Salaries. I an∣swer'd him, that for my part I was willing to return mine, provided I might have my Money again. About six or seven hours after, I was sent for by the General and his Council. When I came there, they ask'd me why I had not re∣turn'd the Debentures, which I had bought, to the Advocate, who had demand∣ed them by their order. I answerd them, that they were at Bantam, whither

I had sent them in order to my passage home; in regard that the English Pre∣sident had offer'd me a convenience to go along with him. The Council an∣swer'd me, that the Dutch Ships were as good as the English, and very cour∣teously assur'd me, they would give order for a Cabin to my self in the Vice-Admiral. But withall they told me, I must deliver up my Debentures before I stirr'd; assuring me, that they would give me a Bill to be re-imburs'd my Mo∣ney by the Company in Holland. I thought it very hard, for I knew not how to trust 'em; but seeing the Merchants, Commanders, and all other persons clapt up, and their Papers taken from them by force, that had bought De∣bentures; I thought it the best way to deliver mine, and stand to their cour∣tesie. I often press'd the General and the Council for my Bill, but after ma∣ny delays the General ascertain'd me, that my Bill should be in Holland as soon as I. Thereupon desiring the Vice-Admiral and some others to be my Wirnesses of what the General promis'd, I took my leave of him, very much repenting my going to Batavia.

CHAP. XXVI. The Author embarks in a Dutch Vessel, to return into Europe.

THE next day I went aboard the Vice-Admiral, and the third day after we set sail, and as soon as we were out of the Streight, we discover'd the Islands of the Prince. From thence being in the Altitude of the Coco Islands, we beat about two days to discover them; but all to no purpose, thereupon we made directly for the Cape of good Hope.

The fourty-fifth day after our departure from Batavia, our Vice-Admiral neglected to put out his Lights; believing all the Fleet had been before at the Cape; so that it happen'd that one of the Fleet being behind, and not carry∣ing any Lights out neither, it being a dark night, fell foul upon us, which put every man to his prayers, all people believing the Vessel had been lost; and indeed had she not been a sound stanch Ship (for the Provinces were so ac∣counted) she could never have endur'd so terrible a shock. At length we clear'd our selves, by cutting off the Yards of the Maestricht that hung in our Cor∣dage.

The fifty-fifth we came within view of the Cape of good Hope; but were forc'd to keep the Sea, because the waves roll'd so that we were not able to come to an Anchor; not that the Wind was extream high, but because the South∣wind had blown so long that it had forc'd the Water to that part. When the Sea grew calm, we came to an Anchor.

But of all the people that ever I saw in all my travels, I never saw any so hideous nor so brutish as the Comoukes, of which I have spoken in my Persian Travels; and those of the Cape of good Hope, whom they call Cafres, or Ho∣sentotes. When they speak, they make a noise with their tongues, like the breaking of wind backward; and though they hardly speak articulately, yet they easily understand one another. They cover themselves with the Skins of wild Beasts, which they kill in the Woods; in Winter wearing the hairy part inner∣most, and in Summer outermost. But there are none but the best sort among them who are thus clad, the rest wear nothing but a nasty rag about their privy parts. The men and the women are lean and short; and when they bring forth a Male-child, the Mothers cut out his right Stone; and presently give him Water to drink, and Tobacco to eat. They cut out the right Testicle, because, say they, it makes them swifter to run. There are some of them that will catch a Roe-Buck running. They neither know what belongs to Gold nor Silver; and for Religion, they have none among them.

So soon as we cast Anchor, four women came aboard us, and brought us four young Ostriches; which were boil'd for some sick people that we had a∣board.

After that they brought great store of Tortoise-Shells, and Ostriches Eggs, and other Eggs as big as Goose Eggs; which though they had no Yolk, tasted very well. The Birds that lay these Eggs are a sort of Geese, and so fat that they are hardly to be eaten, tasting rather like Fish than Flesh. The wo∣men seeing our Cook throw away the Guts of two or three Fowl which he was dressing, took them up, and squeezing out the Ordure, eat them as they were; being hugely pleas'd with the Aqua Vitae which the Captain gave them. Nei∣ther men nor women are asham'd to shew their nakedness, for indeed they are but a sort of human Beasts.

So soon as the Ship arrives, they bring their Beeves to the shore, with what other Commodities they have, to barter for strong Water and Tobacco, Cry∣stal or Agat Beads; or any sort of old Iron work. If they are not satisfi'd with what you offer them, away they fly; and then giving a whistle all their Cat∣tel follow 'em; nor shall you ever see 'em again. Some, when they saw 'em fly, would shoot and kill their Cattel; but after that for some years they would never bring any more. 'Tis a very great convenience for the Vessels that touch there, to take in fresh Victuals; and the Hollanders did well to build a Fort there. It is now a good handsome Town, inhabited by all sorts, that live with the Hollanders; and all sorts of Grain, which are brought out of Europe or Asia and sow'd there, come to better perfection there then in other parts. The Coun∣try lies in thirty-five Degrees, and some few Minutes over, so that it cannot be said that either the heat or scituation of the Climate makes these Cafres so black. Being desirous to know the reason, and why they stunk so terribly, I learnt it from a Girl that was bred up in the Fort, who was tak'n from her Mother, as soon as she was born, and was white like our women in Europe; she told me, that the reason why the Cafres are so black is, because they rub themselves with a Greafe or Ointment compos'd of several sorts of Drugs; wherewith should they not anoint themselves very often, and as soon as they were born, they should be∣come Hydropsical, as the Blacks of Africa, and the Abyssins are; or like the people of Saba, that never live above forty years, and are always troubl'd with one Leg twice as big as the other. These Cafres, as brutish as they are, have yet some knowledg of Simples, which they know to apply to several Diseases; which the Hollanders have several times experienc'd. Of nineteen sick persons that we had in our Ship, fifteen were committed to the care of these Cafres, being troubl'd with Ulcers in their Legs, and old wounds which they had re∣ceiv'd in the wars; and in less then fifteen days they were all perfectly cur'd. Every one of these had two Cafres to look after him; and according to the con∣dition of the wound or Ulcer, they went and fetch'd Simples, which they bruis'd between two Stones, and apply'd to the sore. As for the other four, they were so far gone with the Pox, that they would not trust the Cafres with them, having been given over at Batavia, and so they all dy'd, between the Cape and St. He∣lens.

In the year 1661, a Gentleman of Britanny being at Batavia, was so bit by the Gnats in the night, that his Leg exulcerated presently in such a manner, as to puzzle all the art and skill of the Chirurgeons in that Town. When he came to the Cape of good Hope, the Captain of the Ship sending him ashore, the Cafres came about him, and after they had beheld him, they told him if he would trust to them they would cure him. The Captain thereupon committed him to their care, who cur'd him and made him a sound man in less then fifteen days.

When a Ship comes to an Anchor in the Cape, it is the fashion for him that commands the Ship, to give leave to some part of the Mariners and Souldiers to go ashore to refresh themselves. The sickly have first leave by turns, and go to the Town, where they are dyeted and lodg'd for seven or eight Sous a day, and are very well us'd.

It is the custom of the Hollanders, when they stay here, to send out parties of Souldiers upon the discovery of the up-land Country, and they that go farthest are best rewarded. With this design a party of Souldiers, under the Command of a Serjeant, far advanc'd in the Country; and night coming on, they made a great fire, as well to keep themselves from the Lions, as to warm them∣sèlves, and so lay down to sleep round about it. Being asleep, a Lion came and seiz'd

one of the Souldiers Arms, which the Serjeant perceiving, immediately shot the Lion with his Carbine; but when he was dead, they had much ado to open the Lions mouth, to get out the Souldiers Arm. Thus it appears a vulgar error, to believe that Lions will not come near the fire. As for the Souldier, the Ca∣fres cur'd his Arm in twelve days. There are in the Fort abundance of Lions and Tigers Skins; among the rest, there was the Skin of a Horse which the Ca∣fres had kill'd; it was white, cross'd with black streaks, spotted like a Leopard, without a Tail. Two or three Leagues from the Hollanders Fort, there was a Lion found dead, with four Porcupines Quils in his body, the third part where∣of had pierc'd his flesh. So that it was judg'd, that the Porcupine had kill'd the Lion. The Skin, with the Quils in it, is kept in the Fort.

A League from the Fort, is a fair Town, that grows bigger and bigger every day. When the Holland Company arrives there with their Ships, if any Soul∣dier or Mariner will live there, they are very glad of it. They have as much ground as they can mannage; where they have all sorts of Herbs, and Pulse, and as much Rice, and as many Grapes as they can desire. They have also young Ostridges, Beef, Sea-fish, and sweet water. To catch the Ostridges when they please, they got their Nests when they are young, and driving a stake in the ground, tye the Birds by one Leg to the stake, and when they are old enough they come and take them out of the Nest, from whence it is impossible to fly away.

When the Hollanders began to inhabit the Cape, they took a young Girl from her Mother, as soon as she was born; she is white, only her Nose is a little flat. A French man got her with Child, and would have marry'd her; but the Com∣pany were so far from permitting him, that they took away above a hundred Livres of the Maids wages from her, to punish her for the misdemeanour, which was somewhat hard.

There are great numbers of Lions and Tigers, which the Hollanders have a pretty invention to take; they fasten a Carbine to a stake, driv'n into the Earth, and lay meat round about the Gun, which meat is fasten'd with a string to the Trigger. So that when the Beast snatches the meat, the string pulls the Trig∣ger, and the Gun going off, hits the Lion either in the throat or the breast.

The Cafres feed upon a Root like our Skerrets, which they roast and make bread of. Sometimes they grin'd it into flower, and then it tasts like a Wal∣nut. For their food they eat the same Root raw, with raw Fish; with the En∣trails of Beasts, out of which they only squeeze the ordure. As for the bowels of the wild Beasts, the women wear them dry'd about their Legs, especially the bowels of those Beasts which their Husbands kill, which they look upon as a kind of Ornament. They also feed upon Tortoises, when they have so far heat∣ed them at the fire, as to make the Shells come off. They are very expert in darting their Azagaya's; and those that have none, make use of pointed sticks, which they will lance a great way. With these they go down to the Sea-side, and as soon as ever they spy a Fish near the top of the water, they will not fail to strike him.

As for their Birds, which are like our Ducks, whose Eggs are without any Yolk; they breed in such great quantities in the Countrey, that in a Bay about eighteen Miles from the Cape, you may knock them on the head with a stick.

The Hollanders once carried a young Cafre to the General at Batavia, who bred him carefully up, teaching him to understand the Dutch and Portugal Lan∣guages perfectly well. At length being desirous to return into his Country, the General gave him very good Cloaths, and good Linnen, hoping that he would have liv'd among the Hollanders, and bin serviceable to them in the discovery of the Country; but so soon as he got home, he flung his Cloaths i' the Sea, and return'd wild among his fellow Natives, eating raw flesh as he did before, and quite for∣getting his Benefactors.

When the Cafres go a hunting, they go a great number together, and make such a prodigious howling and yelling, that they fright the very Breasts them∣selves, and in that affright with ease destroy them; and I have been assur'd, that their cries do terrifie the Lions themselves.

The women are of so hot a constitution of Body, that at the times that their

monthly customs are upon 'em, they happen to make water, and that an Euro∣pean chances to set his feet upon it, it causes an immediate Head-ach and Fea∣ver, which many times turns to the Plague.

CHAP. XXVII. The Holland Fleet arrives at St. Helens. The description of the Island.

HAving staid two and twenty days at the Cape of good Hope, seeing that the Wind was favourable, we weigh'd, and steer'd for St. Helens. When we were under Sail, the Mariners cry'd out, they would sleep till they came into St. Helens Road. For the wind is very constant, and carries you in sixteen or eighteen days to the Road of the Island. All the trouble that our Mariners had, was that fourteen days after our departure from the Cape, they were often forc'd to the Top-Mast head, upon discovery of the Island; for as soon as you discover the Island, the Pilot must take care to steer to the North-side of the Island, be∣cause there is no casting Anchor but on that side, and that very near the shore too; by reason of the deepness of the water; for if the Anchors come not to take hold, the current of the water and the wind carries the Ship quite out of the Road, which there is no recovering again, because the wind never changes.

So soon as the Ships came to an Anchor, part of the Seamen were sent ashore to get wild Hogs, of which there are great plenty; and to gather Sorrel, which grows in great abundance; and indeed they not only send the Seamen, but all the Pigs, Sheep, Geese, Ducks, and Pullets aboard, to feed upon that Sorrel, which pur∣ges them in such a manner, that in a few days they became so fat, that by that time we came to Holland they were hardly to be eaten. That Sorrel has the same operation upon the men, who boiling their wild Swines flesh, Rice, and Sorrel to∣gether, make thereof a kind of Potage so excellent, that it keeps their bodies open by an insensible purgation.

There are two places upon the Coast of St. Helens where Ships may come to an Anchor. But the best is that where we lay, by reason that ground is very good, and for that the water that falls from the Mountain is the best in the Island. In this part of the Island there is no plain, for the Mountain descends to the very shore of the Sea.

It is not so good anchoring in the other Road; but there is a very handsome plain, where you may sow or plant whatever you please. There are great store of Citrons, and some Oranges, which the Portugals had formerly planted there. For that Nation has that vertue, that wherever they come, they make the place the better for those that come after them; whereas the Hollanders endeavour to destroy all things wherever they set footing. I confess the Commanders are not of that humour, but the Sea-men and Souldiers, who cry one to another, we shall never come hither any more, and out of greediness will cut down a whole tree instead of gathering the fruit.

Some days after there arriv'd a Portugueze Vessel from Guiny, full of Slaves, which were bound for the Mines of Peru. Some of the Hollanders that understood the language of the Negro's, told 'em how miserably they would be us'd, and thereupon the next night two hundred and fifty of them threw themselves into the Sea. And indeed it is a miserable slavery; for sometimes after they have min'd in some places for some days together, the Earth being loose, falls down and kills four or five hunder'd at a time. Besides, that after they have been mining awhile, their Faces, their Eyes, and their Skins change colour; which proceeds from the vapours that arise from those concavities; nor could they subsist in those places, but for the quantity of strong Water which they give both to the men and wo∣men. There are some that are made free by their Masters, who labour however for their living; but between Saturday night and Munday morning they spend all their weeks wages in strong Water, which is very dear; so that they always live miserably.

Being ready to depart the Island of St. Helens, the Admiral call'd a Council, to advize which way to steer. The greatest part were for steering more to the West,

then to the South; because the season for sailing was far spent; and for that if we steer'd for the West Indies, we should find the wind more proper to carry us into Holland. But we had no sooner cross'd the Line, but we found the wind quite con∣trary to what the Mariners expected; so that we were forc'd to steer to the sixty-fourth Degree of Altitude with the Island, and so return by the North into Holland.

CHAP. XXVIII. The Holland Fleet sets Stil from St. Helens, and prosperously ar∣rives in Holland.

THE next day after the Admiral had call'd a Council, we weigh'd and set Sail about ten a Clock at night. Three days after our departure from St. Helens, the Seamen were call'd very duly to prayers morning and evening; though all the time we stay'd in the rode, they never minded any such matter; which made me wonder, to find they should be more devout when they were out of danger, than when they were in jeopardy.

After several other days sailing, we discover'd the Coast of Island, and then the Island of Ferella, where we join'd with the Holland Fleet that stay'd for us. Here it is that the Commander in chief calls to account all the Mariners for their misde∣meanours during the whole Voyage.

Our Ship was bound for Zealand; but we were forc'd to lye out at Sea seven days before we could get into Flushing, because the Sand had chang'd its place. Coming to an Anchor before Flushing, two of the Company came aboard to wel∣come us home, and to advise us to lock our Chests, and put our marks upon them; for all Chests are carry'd into the East India House, where when the owners come for them, they are order'd to op'n them, lest they should have any counterband goods therein. Thereupon I set a mark upon my Chests, and went ashore, after I had giv'n a good character of the Captain, and his civility to me all the Voyage, and thence proceeded by Land to Middleburgh.

Four days after I came to Middleburgh, I went to fetch my Chests; and find∣ing the two Directors there, one a Zealander, the other of Horn, who came first aboard us; I produc'd my Keys, and offer'd my Chests to be open'd. But the Zea∣lander more civil than the Horner, deliver'd me my Keys again, and taking my word, told me I was free to take away my goods. And indeed I have always ob∣serv'd, that the Northern people are always more rude and ungentile than the Southern.

As for the 17500 Florins which the General of Batavia promis'd should be paid me upon my arrival in Holland, I receiv'd so many delays and put off's, that I was at length forc'd to commence a Suit that lasted above two years; nor could I get a publick Notary either at Amsterdam or the Hague, that would make me out a Protest, every one fearing the Directors, who were both Judges and Par∣ties. At length after five years wrangling and jangling, the Director wrote to my Brother at Batavia (for I was then return'd again to the Indies) that if I would accept of 10000 Livers, he might receive it for me; which he did, and was forc'd to give them an acquittance for the whole.

This is the return which I made from the Indies in the year 1649, and the only time that ever I return'd by Sea; having perform'd all the rest of my Travels by Land, not counting my short Voyages through the Mediterranean for any thing. And as for my first Travels, I perform'd them all by Land, from Paris through Germany and Hungary, as far as Constantinople; whither I return'd again in the year 1669. From Constantinople I went to Smyrna, thence I sail'd for Ligorn; from Ligorn I travel'd by Land to Genoa, thence to Turin, and so to Paris.