The six voyages of John Baptista Tavernier, Baron of Aubonne through Turky, into Persia and the East-Indies, for the space of forty years : giving an account of the present state of those countries, viz. of the religion, government, customs, and commerce of every country, and the figures, weight, and value of the money currant all over Asia : to which is added A new description of the Seraglio / made English by J.P. ; added likewise, A voyage into the Indies, &c. by an English traveller, never before printed ; publish'd by Dr. Daniel Cox

CHAP. IV. Of the Road from Aleppo to Ispahan, through Mesopotamia and Assyria, which I travel'd in my third Voyage to the In∣dies.

I Departed from Paris in my third Voyage to the Indies upon the sixth of December 1643, and went to Ligorn, where I found the Dutch Fleet ready to set Sail for the Levant. The Vessel wherein I embark'd seeming rather a Man-of-War than a Merchant-Man. We pass'd through the Channel of Messina, and lay there at an Anchor four days before the City. From thence pas∣sing by the Morea, we enter'd into the Archipelago, where the Fleet parted, ac∣cording as every Ship was bound. Our Ship sayl'd directly for the Port of Alexan∣dretta, but though the Wind were favourable, we were stop'd for some time by a Pirate that met with us off the Eastern Point of Candy. We endeavour'd to have got clear of him; but the Pirate gaining upon us, we made ready. Thereupon the Pirate gave us three Broad-sides, that went over the Ship without doing us any harm: which we answer'd by as many from our Ship, the first whereof brought his Fore-mast by the Board; and the third Shot went through the Fore-castle and kill'd him some Men, as far as we could discern. At that very instant one of our Mari∣ners cry'd out from the Top-mast-head, A Sail from the South. Thereupon the Pirate left us, and made Sail after her: and we, glad of such an escape, pursu'd our Voyage to Alexandretta, where we happily arriv'd; from whence I took Horse for Aleppo, as I have already describ'd.

The sixth of March I departed from Aleppo in the company of two Capuchin Friars, Father Raphael and Father Yves, and a Venetian whose name was Dominico de Sanctis.

From Aleppo to Bir, where you cross the Euphrates, it is four days journey for the Horse-Caravan. The Country is well wooded, and well manur'd.

The seventh of March the great Rains that fell hinder'd us from getting to the usual Stage, so that we could not gain Telbechar, another Town, where there is no Inn: which constrain'd us to stop a League on this side, and to go to a Cave that was able to contain three hundred Horse. This is a Cave where the Bedouins or Feeders of Cattel thereabouts oft retire, who live after the manner of the Arabs, either in Rocks or in poor Hutts. The Cave has been hollow'd from time to time, there being several Niches in it like little Chambers. Our Caravan-Bashi fearing

some Ambuscade, rode thither before to view the place, but finding it empty and free, we rested there that night, and the next night came to lye at Mezara, which is only a small Village without an Inn: Neither was there any thing remarkable upon that Road. Only that near the Cave, in the Mountain, there is very good Water: And formerly upon the Mountain stood a Castle, of which some ruines are still re∣maining. From the top of the Mountain there is a fair Prospect as far as you can see, over very fair Plains on every side, and in several places very good Land, water'd by divers Channels which are brought from the River Euphrates. All the Rivolets also that you cross from Aleppo to Bir come from the same River.

The fourth day after we parted from Aleppo, being the ninth of March, we came to the banks of Euphrates. Bir is on the other side of the River; and be∣cause that sometimes the Goods cannot be unladen all in a day; there is a fair and large Inn, to defend the Merchants from the Bedoüins, which would else disturb and rob them, were not they and their Goods in that manner secur'd.

You cross the Euphrates in large Ferry Boats, and as soon as you are got over the other side of the River, the Customer and his Officers comes and tells the Bales, and writes down the names of the Merchants to whom they belong. The Caravan does not lye in the Town, which is built like an Amphitheatre upon the brow of a very craggy Mountain, but passes forward over a scurvy Road to an Inn upon the top of the Mountain. Near the Inn there are several Chambers cut out of the Rock, where they that cannot get room in the Inn are forc'd to lye. That Evening the Custom-Officer comes to receive his duties, being two Piasters upon every load of Goods, whether upon Horse or Mule, though the Mules carry more than the Horses; and half a Piaster for every Beast that carries Provisions. But for Saddle Horses or Mules there is nothing demanded.

The Bir, or Berygeon, as the Natives call it, is a large City for an Eastern City, scituated upon the brow of a Hill. Below upon the River stands a Castle that de∣clares its Antiquity; it is half as long as the City, but narrow, and without any other Fortification, saving only a Tower that scours the River, in which there are eight or nine pitiful Culverins. In the highest part of the Town stands another Castle where the Governour resides, who is an Aga, whom some call a Basha, having un∣der him two hundred Janizaries, and four hundred Spahi's. The City is ill built, as are the most part of the Cities of Turkie: But there are an extraordinary plenty of all things, excellent Bread, good Wine, and great store of the best sort of Fish.

The tenth day after we had travel'd elev'n hours in the first Lands of Mesopo∣tamia, that lyes between the two Rivers Euphrates and Tigre, which at present they call Diarbek, we came in the evening to Sharmely. This is a very good Town, with a fair Inn, and Baths round about it. About twice Musquet-Shot from thence, stands a Mountain alone by it self, like Montmartre near Paris: Round about it are Plains, and at the top of it stands a Fortress, with a Garrison of two hundred Spahi's, by reason that the Arabs sometimes cross Euphrates, and make incursions upon that side. In the year 1631, the Grand Vizier retur∣ning from Bagdat, where he had lost the greatest part of the Grand Signor's Army, not being able to take the City; fearing the loss of his head if he return'd to Con∣stantinople, and knowing himself to be in great esteem among the Souldiers, re∣solv'd to quarter himself upon this Mountain, and to erect a Fortress to secure himself from the tempest that threaten'd him. No doubt but'l if he could have brought about his design, he might have made himself Master of all Mesopotamia, and would have put the Grand Signor to a great deal of trouble. For if you in∣tend for Aleppo, whither it be from Tauris, Mossul, or Bagdat, unless you travel tho∣rough the Desert, you must pass through Sharmely, under the command of this Fortress, for Provision and Waters sake. The work was gone so far forward, that there was a good defence rais'd, and the Vizier had already enclos'd all the Mountain together with the Inn, with a Wall almost twenty foot thick, and three fathom high, when he was strangl'd by those in whom he most confided, the Grand Signor having gain'd them either by threats or by rewards.

The eleventh, after a Journey of ten hours we came to Ourfa, where the Cara∣van usually stays eight or ten days; for here it is that they live that hire the Horses and the Mules, who have always some business in this place. We lay at an Inn

three or four hundred paces distant from the City toward the North. When the Inn is full, the rest retire into the Grotto's which are near at hand, and are very good quarters. Here the Toll-gatherer presently comes and counts the Bales without op'ning them. They that carry any Sacks must pay for half a Load; if not, he op'ns the Sack to see if there be any Merchandise therein, for then the Merchant must pay the whole duty.

Ourfa is the Capital City of Mesopotamia, built as they say, in the same place where Abraham liv'd, and where stood the ancient Edessa, where the people of the Country report, that King Abagarus generally kept his Court. There are still to be seen the ruines of a Castle; from whence they add, that the same King sent to CHRIST for his Picture, and offer'd him his Kingdom and his people to defend him against the Jews, whom he understood to be his Enemies. The Chronicles of the Armenians report, that Abagarus was their Country-man, and that in his Reign they began to be Christians, and to be Baptiz'd by the hands of an Apostle, whom CHRIST sent to that Prince after his Resurrection. * Neither is this Castle yet so far ruin'd, but that there is still to be seen a spacious Hall, and three or four hand∣som Rooms with some relicks of Mosaick work. I was curious to see what ever was remarkable in this City. And first they led me to a large Fountain which re∣sembles a Fish-pond, the Spring whereof is under the Foundations of the principal Mosquèe, which was built in the honour of Abraham. The Christians of the Coun∣try say, that it was in that place where he pray'd, before he went about to Sacri∣fice his Son Isaac, and that two Springs of Water arose from the two places where he rested his knees, which now feed the large Fountain I have made mention of. It is pav'd with Free-stone, and so full of fish, that if you throw them in a little Bread, they will follow you from place to place as you walk by the side of the Pond. There is no medling with them; for the Turks have a great veneration for those Fish which they call Abraham's Fish. Besides that, the place about the Fountain where the water wid'ns it self to water all the City, is cover'd with very fair Carpets, for about twenty paces in bredth. This Fountain at length falls into a little River that runs by the Walls. As for the Grotto where the two Springs rise, there is no going into it before you have pull'd off your Shooes, and it is a great favour for a Christian to see it; such a favour as cost me six Piasters. I also saw the Church, under the portal whereof, they say, St. Alexis liv'd seventeen years a private life. It stands in the middle of a Church-yard, in the highest part of the Town, in the possession of the Armenians. But their principal Church is about a quarter of an hours walking from the City, built by St. Ephren, who is there buried. The Monastery stands yet entire, enclos'd with fair Walls. In the Church I saw a large Bible in Armenian Characters. The Sepulchre of St. Ephren is in a Cave at the foot of the Mountain, to which there also belongs a Chappel, where they keep three or four Lamps continually burning. There are other Grotto's up and down the Mountain, where are to be seen very ancient Sepulchers of the Christians. The City of Ourfa is seated in a good soil, very well manur'd, which extends it self out of sight to∣ward the East. There are several pleasant Gardens near the walls, water'd by little Channels brought thither by Art. The soil produces good Wine, so that a man may live as well at Ourfa, as in any part of Turkie. While I stay'd there, I kill'd abundance of Feldfares in those Gardens; and indeed there is great store of wild Fowl all the Country over. The Walls of the City are of Freestone, with Battlements and Towers; but within, the houses are small, ill built, and ruinous: And there are several void spaces in the City, which makes Ourfa to look rather like a Desert than a Metropolis. The City is Govern'd by a Basha, who has under him a hundred and fifty Janizaries, and six hundred Spahi's, standing more in need of Cavalry than Infantry, by reason of the Incursions of the Arabians, especially in Harvest time. In short, Ourfa is the place were they dress such great quanti∣ties of Cordovan Skins, by reason of the waters particular to the Country, which give them that peculiar beauty. The Yellow Skins are drest at Ourfa, the Blew at Tocat, and the red Rat Diarbequir.

The twentieth of March, we set out of Ourfa, and after a Journey of six hours, we lay at a pittiful Village where the Inn was fal'n all to decay. There is a Foun∣tain of excellent water by it, which is all the convenience of the place, for there is no Provision to be had.

The twenty-first we travel'd nine hours, and came to lye near several Caverns which are very deep; at the entry whereof there are little Rooms, which are sup∣pos'd to be the places where the People of the Country liv'd that fed their Cattel thereabouts. There is also Rain-Water to be had in some of the Concavities of the Rock. Half this days journey you must pass over Rocks, where it is almost impos∣sible, and very dangerous to keep your Horses back.

The twenty-second, having travel'd eleven hours, we lodg'd near a Cavern, having forded a River that runs at the foot of it. There are two great Grotto's on each side, where Travellers take up their Quarters, and whither the Natives of the Country bring Provisions both for Horse and Man. The Toll-gatherers, coming from a Fort about three Leagues distant from these Caverns, here exact two Piasters and a half for every Horse and Mules Load; and search your Sacks, to see if there be no Merchantable Goods therein. About half the way of this days journey you meet with a City quite deserted by the Inhabitants; and about an hours march after that, with Tombs of Stone, in the middle whereof stands a Cross, with Armenian Cha∣racters.

The twenty-third we travel'd elev'n hours, and lay at Dadacardin. This appears to have been a great Town, but is all ruin'd: nor is there any thing remaining but a long Stone-Bridge very well built, under which runs a River that is very broad when it overflows. The People of the Country have no other Habitations than the Hollows of Rocks; yet they bring to the Travellers Hens, Butter, Cheese, and other Provisions which they sell very cheap.

The twenty-fourth we travel'd nine hours, and lay at a place call'd Cara, built upon a Hill. The Caravan lay at the Inn; but the two Capuchins and I lay at a private Christian's House, who carry'd us to the Church, where was then the Ver∣tabet or Bishop of Merdin. It was a pitiful poor Church, where they had nothing but two Planks supported with four Sticks instead of an Altar. They dare not leave any Furniture in it; but as soon as the Priest has said Service, he must have a care to take away every thing, as well the Planks as the Covering of the Altar, which was only a Painted Cloth: For the Turks that travel that way, if it be foul weather, will break open the Door, put their Horses there, burn the Altar, and take away whatever they find.

In the Village where we lay, there was a Pond, the sides whereof were sur∣rounded with fair Free-stones, which were fetch'd from the Christian Churches, and the Tombs of the Christians thereabouts. Among the rest, there was one very large Stone, with an Epitaph upon it in large Latin Letters; whereby we knew it to be the Tomb-stone of a Norman Gentleman, who had been a Captain of Foot. The Bishop inform'd us, that it is recorded in the Armenian Stories, that the French were a long time in this Country, at what time the Christians were Masters of Syria. This Country is all a large Plain, about twenty Leagues in length; which might be well manur'd, and make the Inhabitants rich, did not the Tyranny of the Turks, and the Incursions of the Arabs reduce them to the utmost degree of Poverty.

The twenty-fifth, after we had travel'd eight hours, we lay at a Village call'd Cousasar, where there was no Inn. There were formerly three great Monasteries, a quarter of a League one from the other. The Turks have ruin'd two, all but the Steeples of the Churches that belong'd to them. The third, which stands all entire, and is the fairest Pile of Building, serves for a Mosquee. They have made Shops round about the Cloysters, in the middle of which is a fair Spring of Water.

The twenty-seventh we lay still at Cousasar, being the place where you must pay the Customs of Diarbequir, which is not above two days journey off, amounting to two Piasters and a fourth part, for every Load of Merchants Goods.

Merdin is not above two Leagues from Cousasar. This is a little City seated upon a Mountain, with good Walls, and a fair Fountain replenish'd from the Castle; which stands upon the North side, in a place yet higher, that commands the City; where there lives a Basha, who has under him two hundred Spahi's, and four hun∣dred Janizaries. Merdin is the place where was born the Lady Maani Gioerida, the first Wife of Pietro de la Valle, so well known for his famous Travels.

As for Cousasar, which is a large Village, it is inhabited for the most part by Ar∣menian Christians and Nestorians. The Armenians perform Divine Service in their own Language; the Nestorians in the Chaldaïc. The latter shew'd me two Bibles

in a large Volume, in the same Language, writt'n in Vellum, all the Capital Letters being in Gold and Azure. They seem'd to be very old; and one of their Priests told me, that it is 937 years ago since one of them was writt'n; the other not above 374 since. When Service is done, they put them in a Chest, and hide them under Ground. I would have giv'n 200 Piasters for the oldest, but they durst not sell it, in regard it belong'd to the Church, and was not at their disposal.

The twenty-seventh, after we had travel'd nine hours, we arriv'd at Karasara, which had been formerly a great Town, and no doubt inhabited by Christians; as appears by seven or eight Churches half ruin'd, though the Steeples are little the worse. They stand at a good distance one from the other; and upon the North-side of one of those Churches there is a Gallery, at the end whereof, through a little Door you descend about a hundred Steps, every Step being ten Inches thick. When you come under the Church, you meet with a larger and bigger Vault, supported with Pillars. The Building is so contriv'd, that there is more light below than in that above; but of late years the Earth has stop'd up several Windows. The great Altar is in the Rock; on the right side whereof is a Room, which receives the light from several Windows contriv'd in the Rock. Over the Gate of the Church was a great Free-stone, wherein were certain Letters that I could not read. On the North-side of the same Church under Ground are to be seen two great Cisterns, each four hundred and fifty Paces long; with two great Arches, sustain'd with several Pillars. Every year they fill them with the Water that falls from the next Mountain, and makes a kind of a River. A quarter of a League from the Church, you descend the Mountain for above a hundred Paces together among the Rocks, on each side whereof are Rooms cut out of the Rock. Upon every Door there is a Cross; and in every Room as it were a Bench, and a Table, with a little place about the length of a Man, like a Bedsted, all cut out of the Rock. At the bottom of the Rock is a Hall, round about the Wall whereof is a Bench to sit on. The Roof is all plain, without any Arch; in the middle whereof there is a Hole to the top of the Moun∣tain: but in regard it gives no light, 'tis very probable 'twas only made to let out the Smoak when they drest their Meat; or else to let in the fresh Air, as I have seen in many Villages upon the Persian Gulf. Upon the highest of those Mountains stands a paltry Village, where they buy their Victuals. But before the Caravan arrives, certain Merchants ride before to inform themselves from the Herdsmen, whether they know of any Thieves in the Grotto's, that often hide themselves there in expectation of Prey.

In the year 1638, Sultan Amur at going to besiege Babylon, march'd this very way, as well to see these Ruines, as to give order for the demolishing a Fort that stood not above two Leagues off of Karasera, which the Thieves of the Country made their place of retreat. He also at the same time caus'd the Road to be clear'd for four days journey, by ord'ring the Stones to be pickt up and laid in heaps, all along the Road. He also built a Bridge over the River. And indeed, that March of the Grand Signor was very advantageous to all Travellers that pass this way.

The twenty-eighth we travel'd eight hours, and came to Nesbin, anciently Ni∣sibis. Two or three hours travel on this side, near the Road, is a kind of Hermitage, being a small Room enclos'd with Walls, the Door whereof is so low, that a Man must creep upon his Belly to get in. Three or four Jews went and perform'd their Devotions at this Hermitage, believing it to be the place where the Prophet Elisha was buried.

The Country from Cousasar to Nesbin is a large Plain, where for the first days journey you shall see no other green Herb upon the Ground but only Pimpernel; the Roots whereof are so large, that there are some a Foot and a half in diameter. The next day, the Fields are cover'd with a large thick Leaf, the Root whereof is bulbous, and as big as an Egg. There are also great store of yellow, red, and violet Flowers, Tulips of several colours, Emonies, and single Daffadillies. But in general Mesopotamia is a very barren Country, and there are very few places that can be better'd by Art or Industry.

Nesbin is only the Shadow of the ancient Nisibis, being now only a large Village; the Inhabitants whereof are Christians, both Armenians and Nestorians. Our Ca∣ravan lodg'd a little beyond, in a Church-yard adjoyning to one of the Armenian Churches. The next day, hearing people sing, I went to the Church with the two

Capuchins, where I saw an Armenian Bishop, with his Miter, and a wooden Crosier, accompany'd with several Priests and a good Congregation. When Service was done, after some few Compliments between us, he led us down under the Church into a Chappel, where he shew'd us the Sepulcher of St. James Bishop of Nisibis. In the Church-yard is a Stone about a Foot thick, and six high; upon which were laid several Candles of Wax and Tallow, which the Poor Offer in their Necessities, but especially in their Sicknesses. They believe that Stone to have been the Pedestal for the Statue of some Saint, which the Turks have defac'd: so that they give the same Honour to the Pedestal, as they would have giv'n to the Statue. There are also some Roman Characters to be seen, but half worn out, and spaces brok'n off in some parts: so that I could not learn, in Honour of whom that Statue was erected. Half a League from Nisbin runs a River, which you cross, over a Stone-Bridge. In the way to the River are several pieces of Wall, with an Arch, which made me con∣jecture, that formerly the City extended as far as the River.

Twice Musket-shot from the River, you meet with a Stone, half buried, upon which are written certain Latin Words; whereby it appears that it was the Tomb∣stone of the General of an Army that was a French-man: but I could not read his Name, which time had desac'd. The same Bishop inform'd us, that formerly the Moors having besieg'd the City, there came such a prodigious company of strange Flyes, and did so torment both Men and Horses, that they were forc'd to raise the Siege. You must pay the same Toll at Nisbin as in other places, that is, two Piasters and a half, for every Mule or Horses Load. We lay there three days toge∣ther, to furnish our selves with Provisions 'till we came to Moussul, which is five days journey from Nisbin; the Country between being altogether desert and uninha∣bited. There is no Water to be found but in two places, and that not very good neither; near to which you shall see some few Herdsmen grazing their Cattel.

The first of April we departed from Nisbin; and after we had travel'd eleven hours, we lay near to a River, whither certain Shepherds brought us Hens to sell.

The second we travel'd ten hours, and lay at a paltry Town, where we met with nothing to eat.

The third we travel'd thirteen hours, and lodg'd by a pitiful Fountain, the Water whereof was hardly good enough for our Horses.

The fourth we travel'd ten hours, and came to lodge by the Bank of a little River, near to which appear'd the Ruines of a Bridge and a Castle.

The fifth we travel'd eleven hours, to reach Moussul, which is not far from the ancient Niniveh.

Moussul is a City that makes a great shew without, the Walls being of Free-stone; but within it is almost all ruin'd, having only two blind Market-places, with a little Castle upon the Tigris, where the Basha lives. In a word, there is nothing worth a Man's sight in Moussul, the place being only considerable for the great concourse of Merchants; especially the Arabians and Curds, which are the Inha∣bitants of the ancient Assyria, now call'd Curdistan, where there grows great plenty of Galls, and for which there is a great Trade. There are in it four sorts of Christians, Greeks, Armenians, Nestorians, and Maronites. The Capuchins had a pretty Dwelling upon the Tigris; but the Basha laying a Fine upon them, because they went about a little to enlarge it, they were forc'd to quit it. The City is govern'd by a Basha, that has under him, part Janizaries, part Spahi's, about three thousand Men.

There are only two scurvy Inns in Moussul, which being full when we came, I caus'd my Tent to be set up at the Meydan, or great Market-place.

Now to say something in general of the difference of the two Rivers, Tigris and Euphrates, in reference to their Course and Waters: I observ'd that the Water of Euphrates appear'd somewhat red; and that the Stream was not so swift as that of Tigris, which seem'd to be whitish, like the Loire. As for its Course, Euphrates runs a far longer way than Tigris. But now let us cross the Tigris, over a Bridge of Boats, to view the sad Ruines of a City that has made such a noise in the World; though there be now scarce any appearance of its ancient splendour.

Niniveh was built upon the left Shoar of the Tigris, upon Assyria-side, being now only a heap of Rubbish extending almost a League along the River. There are

abundance of Vaults and Caverns uninhabited; nor could a man well conjecture whether they were the ancient Habitations of the people, or whether any houses had been built upon them in former times; for most of the houses in Turkie are like Cellars, or else but one Story high. Half a League from Tigris stands a little Hill encompas'd with Houses, on the top whereof is built a Mosquée. The people of the Country say 'twas the place where Jonas was bury'd; and for that place they have so great a veneration, that no Christians are suffer'd to enter into it, but pri∣vately, and for Money. By that means I got in with two Capuchin Fryars; but we were forc'd to put off our Shooes first. In the middle of the Mosquée stood a Sepulchre, cover'd with a Persian Carpet of Silk and Silver, and at the four cor∣ners, great Copper Candlesticks with Wax Tapers, besides several Lamps and Ostridge-Shells that hung down from the Roof. We saw a great number of Moores without, and within sat two Dervi's reading the Alcoran.

About a Musket-Shot from Moussul toward the North-East, stands a great Ruin'd Monastery, enclos'd with high Walls, the greatest part whereof is still to be seen.

We stay'd ten days at Moussul, and having provided all things ready for the rest of our Journey, we set forward for Ispahan.