Collections of travels through Turky into Persia, and the East-Indies Giving an account of the present state of those countries. As also a full relation of the five years wars, between Aureng-Zebe and his brothers in their father's life-time, about the succession. And a voyage made by the Great Mogul (Aureng-Zebe) with his army from Dehli to Lahor, from Lahor to Bember, and from thence to the kingdom of Kachemire, by the Mogols, call'd The paradise of the Indies. Together with a relation of the kingdom of Japan and Tunkin, and of their particular manners and trade. To which is added a new description of the grand seignior's seraglio, and also of all the kingdoms that encompass the Euxine and Caspian seas. Being the travels of Monsieur Tavernier Bernier, and other great men: adorned with many copper plates. The first volume.

CHAP. I.

The second Voyage of the Author from Paris to Ispahan: and first, of his Embarking at Marseilles for Alexandretta.

THE Road from Constantinople to Erivan, which with all those o∣ther Roads through the Northern Provinces of Turkie, the first time I travel'd into Persia, I have amply describ'd. It behoves me now to treat of the Southern Provinces, and of those through the Deserts, where there are several Emirs, or Arabian Princes, of which several are very potent: For there are some of them that can bring 30000 Horse into the Field, five of which I have had the honour to discourse, and to oblige them with small Presents; in recompence whereof they sent me Rice, Mutton, Dates▪ and Sherbet, as long as I staid among them.

I embark'd at Marseilles in a Holland Vessel that carry'd five and forty Guns, from thence we set sail for Malta. At Malta we staid twelve days to carine the Vessel, and to take in fresh Victuals. Among the rest we bought two thousand Quails, for there are a prodigious quantity in the Island: but in two or three days we found five or six hundred of them destroy'd by the Vermin that pester'd the ship.

From Malta we set sail for Larneca, a good Road in the Island of Cyprus, to the West of Famagofta, which is not above a days journey from it by Land. As we were making into the Road, about two or three hours after midnight, we perceiv'd a Vessel close upon us, and both the Ships Company began to cry out, for fear of f••lling foul one upon another; but the Vessel sheer'd clear without any harm on either side.

In the morning we cast Anchor, and went-ashear. It is a good half League from the Road where the Consuls and Merchants, both English, Hollanders, and French, live in a very pitiful Village. However there is a little Monastery of Capuchins, who officiate in the Chapel of the French Consul; and another of Religious Italians, that depend upon the Guardian of Jerusalem. We staid but two days at Larneca; the Captain having nothing to do but to inform himself what business they might have for him at his return; it being usual then to take in spun and unspun Cottons, together with course Wool for Mattresses.

From Larneca 'till we came in view of the Coast of Syria, we had the Wind very favourable; but at length coming to prove a little contrary, instead of carrying us to Alexandretta, it cast us to the Northward, two or three Leagues higher, upon the Coast of Cilicia, toward a Town call'd Païasses. Half a League from that City ly••s a vast Rock, and between that Rock and the Land runs a very high Sea: And here it was that the people of the Country believe that the Whale cast up Jonas again; though the common Opinion reports it to have been done near Joppa in Palestine. All along that Coast from Alexandretta to Païasses, and farther, the way is so narrow and straiten'd by the Mountain, that in some parts the Camels and Horses must dip their Feet in the Sea: and yet you must pass that way of necessity, travelling from Syria to Constantinople. Between Alexandretta and Païasses it was, that the Chevalier Paul, in a Vessel that carry'd only three hundred Men, miss'd but little of surprising the Caravan that every Year carries the Tribute of Egypt to Con∣stantinople, which since hath never been sent by Sea for fear of the Maltesi. This Knight had landed his Men, and laid them in Ambuscade; but unfortunately his Design was discover'd, so that the Caravan, that might have been easily surpriz'd, stood upon their Guard.

We were near the Coast, when we discover'd a Skiff with fifteen or sixteen Turks, that were sent by him that commanded four Galleys of Rhodes to demand the Customary Present from our Captain. Those Galleys then anchor'd at Païasses, and had there discharg'd themselves of their Provisions of War for Bagdat, which the Grand Signor was going to besiege. And it is the custom, that when the Great Turk's Galleys are out at Sea, that whatever strange Vessel passes by them must send them a Present, either willingly or by force. When the Basha of the Sea, who is the Admiral of the Turks, is in Person at Sea, the Vessel which he meets is not excus'd for 2000 Crowns: so that when he sets out from Constantinople to cruise, the Vessels of the Franks do all they can to avoid him. There are some that will seek to escape in sight of the Galleys, but it has cost them dear. And it happen'd, that one day the Wind slackning, they boarded a Vessel of Marseilles, the Captain and Notary whereof were both seiz'd, and drub'd 'till their Bodies were almost bruis'd to a Gelly, and they had like to have dy'd upon it, without being the better in their Purses; for the rudeness of the Chastisement did not excuse them from paying the Money which was demanded. Whether our Captain knew any thing of this Example, or whether it were out of his natural heat of Valour, he laugh'd at the Skiff-men, bidding them be gone, and telling them he had no Presents for them but Cannon-Bullets. Thereupon the Men return'd to their Galleys, who soon deliver'd us from the true fear we were in, that the gallantry of the Captain had drawn us into an inconvenience. For while we kept the Sea close by the Coast, to observe the Countenances of the Turks, they weigh'd Anchor, and turn'd their Prows toward Rhodes. However, before they left us they sent us a Broad-side, and our Captain, whatever we could say, sent them another, which render'd us more guilty. For the Turks pretend that when their Navy is at Sea, or only one Squadron, and that a strange Vessel is in sight, she is bound to come as near as the Wind will permit her without being hal'd, for which they will otherwise make the Commander pay very severely. The Consuls and Merchants of Aleppo understanding what had pass'd very much blam'd the Captain, fearing a worse consequence of the business▪ But by good fortune the miscarriage was stifl'd and never went farther.

The same day the Wind veering to the West-North-West, we sail'd into the Road of Alexandretta, where we came to an Anchor, about a quarter of a League from the Land. Upon the advice which they have out of Christendom, so soon as they of Alexandretta discover a Vessel, and know what Colours she carries▪ the Vice-Consul of the Nation to which the Vessel belongs, fails not to advertise the

Consul of Aleppo, by a Note which is carry'd in four or five hours, though it be more than two or three days journey on Horse-back. For they tye a Note under the Wing of a Pigeon, who is taught what to do, and she flies directly to the place whence she was brought. For more surety, they usually send two, that if the one should miscarry i▪the dark, which has many times happen'd, the other may supply the defect.

Alexandretta is nothing else but a confus'd heap of paltry Houses, inhabited by the Greeks, who keep little Fudling-schools, for the Mariners and others, the meaner sort of the people: for the Merchants lye at the Vice-Consuls of the Nation. There were but two then, the English Vice-Consul and the French; who had each of them a very convenient dwelling. However▪ they must be men who love Money at a strange▪rate, that accept of those Employments. For the Air, like that of Ormus, is generally so bad▪ especially in the Summer, in so much that they who do not dye, cannot avoid very dangerous Distempers. If there be any so strong that they can hold out for three or four Years, and can accustom themselves to a bad Air, they do well to stay there; 〈◊〉〈◊〉 for them to betake themselves to a good Air, is to hazard their Lives. Mr. Philips the English Consul has been the only Person that ever liv'd two and twenty Years at Alexandretta: but you must know he was a brisk merry Man, and of an excellent temper of Body; and yet for all that he had been forc'd to be cauteriz'd. That which renders the Air so bad, is the great quantity of standing Pools and Plashes in the neighbouring Plains, extending to the East and South; but when the great Heats begin to approach, the most part of the Inhabi∣tants retire to a Village call'd Belan, upon the next Mountain to the City, where there are very good Waters and excellent Fruits. They come also thither from Aleppo, when there is an appearance of a Pestilence; and yet there are few people in this Village who are not troubled with a sort of Fever, that makes their Eyes look▪ yellow and hollow; which they never can remedy as long as they live.

About half a League from Alexandretta, on ▪the right hand of the High way, just against the Mersh on the other side, is a Tower whereon are to be seen the Arms of Godfrey of Bulloign. In all likelihood it was built for the defence of the High-way, which is enclos'd between these two Merches, whose Exhalations are ••ery noxious.

It is but three little days journey from Alexandretta to Aleppo, and some well mounted have rid it in two. The Franks are not permitted to go thither on Foot. For before that Prohibition, in regard the way was short, every Sea-man that had a hundred Crowns, more or less, went on Foot to Aleppo, and got easily thither in three days, with little expence. Now because they had but little Money to spend, and were willing to dispatch their business, they would not stand to give Four or Five in the Hundred extraordinary for what Goods they bought, which was of dangerous consequence to the Merchants. For you must observe, that when the Ships arrive, the first man that either out of rashness or ignorance, gives two Sous more for a Commodity that is not worth a Crown, sets the Price, and causes all the whole Commodity to be sold at that rate. So that the Merchants that lay out ten or twelve thousand Crowns together, are very careful lest those Saylors should get before them, and enhance the Price of the Market.

To remedy which inconvenience, the Merchants obtain'd an Order, That no Strangers should be permitted to go a-foot from Alexandretta to Aleppo, but that they should be bound to hire Horses, and to give for every Horse six Piasters thi∣ther, and six back; which expence would soon eat out the Profit of a poor Mari∣ner's small Sum.

Usually you stay at Alexandretta three or foor days, as well to rest your self, as to make some little Provisions for your Journey to Aleppo. For though you meet with good Stages at Evening, yet the Janisaries will be very glad to eat by the way.

Setting out from Alexandretta, we travel'd over a Plain to the foot of a Mountain which is call'd Belan. There is a wide Gap in the midst of this Mountain, which giving liberty to the North-East Wind, when it blows hard, doth so enrage the Road of Alexandretta, which is otherwise very calm, that no Ship can ride there at that time. In so much that all Ships that happ'n to be there when the Wind rises, presently weigh, and get out to Sea, for fear of being cast away. Almost at

the top of the Mountain you meet with an Inn; but though it be very fair one, with Fountains round about it, yet Merchants never stop there, but go on a little farther to a Grecian that speaks good Italian, and whose entertainment is indifferent good, considering the Country. When you go away, you give him a Crown for your accommodation, which is the manner at other Stages, by a custom, which the Franks themselves having establish'd, will never be left off.

Descending down the Mountain you discover the City of Antioch, built upon a Hill. Formerly the Road lay through that City▪ but the Janizaries of the place exacting a Piaster from every person that travel'd that way, that Road is now disus'd. Antioch once made more noise in the World, being fal'n to ruine ever since the Chanel, that ran from the City to the Sea, where Galleys might ride, has been stop'd up by the Sands that have encroach'd upon the Mouth of the Haven.

When you are at the bottom of the Hill toward the North, you discover a Castle built upon a Hill standing by it self, from whence you have a prospect over a good part of the Plain of Antioch. It is about fifteen Leagues long, and three broad, in that part where the Road lyes. Somewhat more than half the way, you meet with a long Causey parted by several Bridges, by reason of certain Rivulets that cross it, without which the Road were hardly passable. The frequent Revolts of Baegdat and Balsara, which the Grand Signor has been forc'd so often to besiege, caus'd the Grand Visier in the Reign of Achmat to undertake this Causey, which together with the Bridge was finish'd in six Months, that was lookt upon as a Mi••a∣cle. This was done for the more easie passage of the Artillery, and other Provisions of War, that were brought out of Romania and Greece to the Siege of Baegdat, which could never have been done, but for this Causey. At the end of this Causey stands a Bridge, very long and strongly built, under which runs a River, which, with the other Rivulets that wind about the Plain, forms a Lake toward the South, that is call'd the Lake of Antioch.•• This Lake affords a great Revenue, by reason of the Eels that are caught there, which are taken two Months beofre Lent, and transported to Malta Sicily, and other parts of Italy.

This Plain is very full of Olive-Trees; which produces that great Trade of Soap, that is made at Aleppo, and transported into Mcsopotamia, Chaldea, Persia, and the Desert; that Commodity being one of the most acceptable Presents that can be made to the Ar••bians. Sallet Oyl is also in great esteem among them: so that when you make them a Present of it, they will take off their Bonnets, and rub their Heads, their Faces, and their Beards with it, lifting up their Eyes to Heaven, and cry in their Language, God be thank'd. Therein they have lost nothing of the ancient custom of the Eastern People, of which there is often mention made in Holy Scripture.

About a League and a half beyond the Plain, you meet with a Rock, at the foot whereof is a little deep Lake, wherein they catch a world of Fish that are like our Barbels. I have kill'd them with my Pistol; and found them to be of an excellent tast; though they are not regarded at Aleppo.

Two hours after you fo••d a River which is call'd Afrora; though if it have hap∣pen'd to rain, you must stay 'till the Waters are fal'n. Having past the River, upon the Banks whereof you stay to feed your self and your Horses, you come to lye at a poor Village call'd Shaquemin, where there is an Inn. Here the Country-people bring Provisions of Food to the Travellers; and whether you eat or no, you must pay a Piaster, according to the custom which the Franks have establish'd. After you have pass'd the Plain of Antioch as far as Shaquemin, the Horses in Summer are so terribly tormented with a sort of great Flies, that it were impossible to travel three or four hours together, were it not for going out of the Road, either to the right, or to the left, and riding through the Fields, which are full of those Burrs that our Clothworkers make use of: For in regard they grow as high as the Crupper of the Horse, they keep the Flies off from stinging and tyring the Ho••••es.

Leaving the Village of Sh••q••••e••••in, the Road lyes among Stones; and for half this tedious way, for two or three Leagues round about, you see nothing but the Ruines of ancient Monasteries. There are some of them which are built almost a•• of Free-stone; and about half a days journey toward the North, quite out of the Road, stands the Monastery of St. Simeon the Stylite, with the remainder of his so

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The Prospect of Aleppo.

Pag. 1▪

famous Pillar, which is still to be ••een. The Franks that travel to Aleppo, usually go out of their way to see that place. That which I find most entire and worthy observation among the Ruines of those Monasteries, is the number of arch' Cisterns of Free-stone, which time has not defac'd.

From Shaquemin you come to dine at a Village call'd Angare, where every Travel∣ler is entertain'd for his Piaster, as at the other Stages. Between the other Villages it is ten hours journey; but between the Angare and Aleppo, but three. We alighted at the French Consul's House, at what time the Customers came presently to search our Cloak-bags; after which we went to the Quaiss••ry, which is a place where all Strangers are at the expence of half a Crown a day for themselves, and a quarter so much for every Servant, and are well entertain'd.