Collections of travels through Turky into Persia, and the East-Indies Giving an account of the present state of those countries. As also a full relation of the five years wars, between Aureng-Zebe and his brothers in their father's life-time, about the succession. And a voyage made by the Great Mogul (Aureng-Zebe) with his army from Dehli to Lahor, from Lahor to Bember, and from thence to the kingdom of Kachemire, by the Mogols, call'd The paradise of the Indies. Together with a relation of the kingdom of Japan and Tunkin, and of their particular manners and trade. To which is added a new description of the grand seignior's seraglio, and also of all the kingdoms that encompass the Euxine and Caspian seas. Being the travels of Monsieur Tavernier Bernier, and other great men: adorned with many copper plates. The first volume.

CHAP. XXII.

A continuation of the Road from Ispahan to Ormus, from Schi∣ras to Bander-Abassi.

THE sixth of March, by eight of the Clock in the morning, I departed from Schiras; and after six hours travel through the plain that continues fertil for a league together beyond the City, I came to an Inn call'd Badaadgi. The water is bad, being as it were luke-warm. Here cold weather begins to cease. The next day I set out by break of day, and came to a large and well-built Inn, only it stood remote from any Town. It is call'd Mouzafferi, and is the only place in Persia where I met with black Saligots, or Water-nuts, as big and as good as ours in Dauphine. The Countrey breeds nothing but Goats and Sheep: and about two leagues off runs a River along by the Mountain to the West.

The 18th I departed by day-break, and travell'd eleven hours through a stone-Countrey, cover'd with bitter Almond and Turpentine-Trees. I lodg'd in a fair Inn, call'd Paira, near to a River that comes from the West, and makes the Coun∣trey fertil. There is some Wood in the Valleys, and some Villages appear on the other side of the River toward the South.

The 19th I set out by four of the Clock in the morning, and travell'd along a Valley, wherein were many Villages receiving the benefit of the River last men∣tion'd. About eight in the morning I stopt at an Inn built in an Octogonal form, a good league from the River, with several Villages between. The name of the Inn is Kaffer.

The 20th I set out two hours after midnight, and travell'd till ten in the morn∣ing through a dry Valley. By the way I met several Shepherds and Herdsmen, who were forsaking the hot Countreys, and driving toward Schiras for cool∣ness.

They that travel upon their own Horses, and would see one of the richest parts of Persia, and some Antiquities, setting out from Kaffer, instead of following the Caravan-road, take the right-hand way by the side of the River, that runs a league and a half from the same Inn. When you have past the River, the way is very streight, and lies for two leagues together through a steep Rock, the Mountain up∣on the right, and the River upon the left, where there is not room in some places for two Horses to ride a-brest. All along this way, toward the top of the Moun∣tain, are little paths that lead to Caverns, some of which are so large, that they will contain two or three thousand men. Having past this way, you come into a Plain call'd Dadivan, four or five leagues in circuit; the greatest part of which is planted with Orange-trees, Citrons, and Granats. Some of these Orange-trees two men can hardly fathom, being as high as our Walnut-trees; and this is one of the most delicious situations in all Persia. I have travell'd through it several times, and sometimes only to divertise my self. The rest of the Plain is sow'd with Rice and Wheat. You set up your Tents under these Trees, and then the Countrey people bring Provision of several sorts, especially Partridges, Hares, and wild Goats. The River that crosses the Plain is full of Carps, Barbels, Pikes, and Crey-Fish. I remember one time a Countrey-man carri'd me down to the water, and before my face took up a Fish with his hand. He was so nimble at it, that having caught one which he did not think big enough, he threw it back again, and took up another. Now in regard that Travellers generally stay about ten or twelve days in that place, the Tumblers that live there-abouts, fail not to come and give you a Visit, to shew ye some of their tricks, and to tast your Schiras Wine. The English and Hollanders usually spend the end of the Summer in this Plain, for the benefit of the River, and the Trees: which become so large and fair, by means of the River, which the Countrey-men bring in by Canals, and shut it up in Ponds, among the Trees, to water their Grounds; which is all the good this River does in Persia: for all the rest of its course is through cragged Rocks, and salt Marshes.

The 20th of March, by ten in the morning, I came to an Inn which was call'd Moushek, which is a-lone-House at the foot of a Rock. There is a Spring about five hunder'd paces from it, but the water is hot, and has a sulphury tast; so that the Ca••tel will hardly drink it. Therefore you must go to a Cistern about two Musquet-shot from the Inn, where there is one newly set up, instead of another that was there before, into which a Jew once chanc'd to fall in, and was therefore broken by the superstitious Mahometans.

Three quarters of a league from Moushetz are two roads that lead to Lar, the one for the Camels, the other for the Horses and Mules. The first is the long∣est by three days journey, and is call'd the Road of the Desert; for after you have past a great Town inhabited only by Camel-Masters, where you lye the first night, between that and Lar, you shall meet with nothing of Houses but only Herdsmens Tents, that feed sometimes in one place, sometimes in another. Upon the Camels Road there are another sort of Fowl like the great Partridges in their bodies, but their legs and feet resemble those of wild Ducks. The Camels take this Road, because it is impossible for them to pass the Mountain Jarron, over which the Horses and Mules are hardly able to travel.

I set out from Moushek the 21th of March, at two in the morning, and having travell'd till eight through a plain, but stony Countrey, I came to the little City of Jarron, which is rather to be call'd a Forrest of Palm-trees that bear excellent Dates. I lodg'd in an Inn five hunder'd paces from the City, and staid there two days.

The 24th, setting out presently after midnight, I travell'd a good hour, and then I began to mount the steep Mountain of Jarron, which is very high, and very long; but the descent is the most dangerous that ever I saw in all my Travels; and besides that, the Moon did not shine. Being at the top, after you have descended three or four hunder'd paces, you meet with a Bridg of one Arch, that reaches from one Mountain to another; a ••old p••ece of Architecture, not enough to be admir'd▪ being rais'd at the charges of Iman-Kouli Kan for the benefit of Travellers. Be∣ing come to the bottom of this, you must pass two others as steep in their ascent as in the descent; upon the top of one of which stands a Cistern, which, though it be very large, is generally emp••••ed by the end of the Summer. Upon these Mountains there is such an infinite quantity of Partridg that a man cannot miss that will but shoot. By eight in the Morning I came to an Inn which is call'd Shakal, which is a-lone House in a Desert Countrey, but stor'd with bitter Almond∣trees, and Turpentine-trees. Appoaching n••er to the Inn, you meet with two or three Cisterns, which are a great comfort to Travellers, water being very scarce upon this Rood. There are at Shakal nine or ten Radars for the Guard of the Road, who are also Masters of the Inn: So soon as you are alighted, they ask you if you will eat any Kid, being sure of their blow, and having no more to do but to go to the Mountain and fetch one, where they swarm. There are store of Partridges, which are almost as big as Pullets; of which you may easily kill as many as you please.

The 25th I travell'd five hours, from morning till noon. An hour after I took Horse, I met with a Mountain▪ the descent whereof was very sleep▪ They call it the Mountain of H••shen, at the ••oot whereof is a Fountain of encellent water. A good league farther you meet with a fair Inn call'd Mouezeré, in the midst of a pleasant Grove, where there is an excellent Spring of water; but because there is no food to be had, you must go as far as Detad••mbé, a Village seated in a plain. A quarter of a league on this side, upon the top of a Mountain, appears the ruins of an old Castle; the Village it self being surrounded with Palm-trees. The Inn is a good one, provided with a very good Cistern.

The 25th I travell'd through a plain for three hours, and s••opt at Banarou, a lit∣tle City well built at the soot of a high Mountain; upon which appars the re∣mains of a large Castle. Benarou is the Frontier Town of the Province of Fars, bordering upon the Province of Lar.

The 26th I departed an hour after midnight, and travell'd till nine in the morn∣ing, partly through the Plain, and partly through the Mountains, where I saw an old Tower for the guard of the Road. I staid at Bihry, a little City seated upon a plain, that borders upon a high Mountain. The Inn is new, and very magnifi∣cently

built by the Mother of Aimas, Kan of Lar, when the great Sha-Abbas took this Countrey from the Gaures, whom he constrain'd to turn Mahu∣metans.

The 27th I set out at four of the Clock in the morning, and about seven I past through a Village seated in a small plain. A league from thence I lodg'd in an Inn call'd Pai-Cotali; that is to say, the foot of the Mountain, as being built at the foot of the Mountain. From thence to Lar is not above four or five hours tra∣velling; but the way is very bad, and several swift Torrents are to be past over.

You may take another Road from Bihry, upon the right-hand toward the West; it is the shorter way by two or three leagues: but so bad, and so narrow, that in many places two Horsemen cannot ride a-brest, being for the most part all Rocks and Precipices.

Lar is the Capital City of the Province of the same name, which formerly bore the title of a Kingdom. It is but of an ordinary bigness, enclos'd on both sides with high Mountains, being built round about a Rock, upon which there stands a Castle of Free-stone, wherein the King keeps a Garrison. The whole Country is very hot, nor have they any water but Rain water, which they pre∣serve in Cisterns, and which sometimes causes a wide Torrent that runs by one side of the City, and falls from a Cascade two stories high, made of Free-stone. In the City and parts adjacent, grow a great number of trees, especially Date trees and Tamarisk. The Gardens also and Mountains are full of Orange trees.

There are but two Inns in Lar, the one within the City, which is not a very good one; the other at the end of the City towards Ormus, which would be convenient, but that it is always afloat when the Rains fall; for which reason the Franks generally lye at the Hollanders House at the end of the City. And there is a necessity for staying at Lar, to change the Camels; for the Camels that come from Ispahan can go no further; every City having their particular priviledges. Which sometimes proves prejudicial to the Merchant, in regard the Governour will delay the change of the Camels till he is presented.

The Fortress of Lar takes up the whole surface of the top of the Rock; and there is but one way to climb it up, with great difficulty. It is more long than broad; and the four corners are fortifi'd with four Bastions, or Bulwarks, between which are rais'd several Towers, for the Souldiers Lodgings. That Fortress is the Royal Prison, whither the King sends such Prisoners as he takes in war, or sur∣prizes by stratagem. I met with two there, one a Prince of Georgia, the other of Mengrelia. The two Princes had each of them a Toman a day allow'd them, and ten or twelve Servants to wait upon them. Upon one of the corners of the Castle, toward the West, was built a Banquetting House with three or four Cham∣bers. In the middle of the Court stands the Magazine, full of Bows and Arrows, Bucklers and Muskets, enough to arm fifteen hundred men. For the Inhabitants of the Province, but more especially of the City of Lar, are accounted the best Musqueteers in Persia, and the best at making the Barrels of Muskets, all but the Breach, which they know not how to order so well as we. The Governours House answers to the great Road; but there is nothing at all of neatness without, only before the door there is a good handsome Court, about sixty paces square, and clos'd in with Walls, which leads you into two large Bazars of good Stone, very well arch'd.

The most part of the Inhabitants of Lar are Jews, who are famous for several Silk Manufactures, especially for making neat Girdles. The Countrymen wear up∣on their heads a kind of a felt of fine wool, and very well wrought. It resembles a Cap not yet shap'd, with four Corners behind, and cut on the sides; and these sorts of Caps are made at Kerman.

There are an infinite number of Cisterns, as well within the City, as in the parts adjacent; and all but little enough, in regard that sometimes it does not rain for three years together. When the Rains fall they do not fill their Cisterns the first day, but rather cover them quite up, till the earth be well soak'd. Now for the distribution of this water they take an excellent course; for they never keep open above three Cisterns at a time; and when they do op'n them, the Governour or some other person appointed for that purpose, is present; so precious is water

in that place, though never so bad. The water thus standing in the Cisterns some∣times for many years together, breads worms, so that whither you strain it, or boil it, there will appear a kind of foulness in it, which is the seed of these worms. And this corruption it is that breeds worms in the legs and feet of men; which puts me in mind, that after my return to Paris, the fifth time of my travelling, I had one came out of my left foot an Ell an a half long, and another from under the ankle of my right foot half an Ell long.

The first of April I set out from Lar by five in the morning, and travell'd till three in the afternoon, through a barren stony Country, except it were only one Village call'd Tcherkah, near to which I met with some Corn-land, and several Palm-trees. I lodg'd at a little Inn call'd Shamzenghi. It is low, built like a Cross, with four doors to receive the cool winds every way. All the Inns are built in this fashion between this and Bander, and near to one another for the ease of Travellers. As for the Beasts, they lye without, for they have no Stables. All the Houses from Lar to Ormus are built after one manner. For there is a kind of a Pipe, like a Chimney, that runs from the bottom to the top to gather wind.

The second I left Shamzenghi about four in the afternoon, because the heat is cool'd by a gentle breeze toward the evening. Three hours I travell'd through a barren Plain, afterwards over most fearful Rocks, and about ten at night I came to Cormout, a great Village well stor'd with Palm-trees.

From Lar to Cormout is the worst way in all Persia. For many times there is no water to be found.

The third, I parted from Cormout a little after midnight; and having travell'd se∣ven hours in very bad way, full of great stones and filthy puddles, I came to a new Inn call'd Tenquidalen. In the middle of it is a little vase of running water, fed by a little stream that falls from the Mountain. But the water being some∣thing brackish, they have since that built a very fair Cistern. They also broach'd the Mountain to bring the water into a Plain, which was barren before, but is now fruitful, and beautifi'd with two good Villages. This was done by a rich Merchant, whose Children enjoy the Revenues of both.

The fourth, I set forward an hour after midnight, and travell'd through an un∣inhabited Countrey, full of wide Torrents when the rain falls. There are but two small Inns upon the Road, and about eight in the morning I arriv'd at that which they call Gourba-Sarghant. It was built with the Money which a Merchant of Ormus left for that purpose; whose strength fail'd him in that very place, for want of a resting place. This Inn is not far from a Village that stands upon the Mountain to the North.

The fifth, setting out a little after midnight, I travell'd till seven in the morning through a dry and desert Countrey, yet stor'd with Lentisk trees, and lay at a good Village call'd Cauorestan, where the people were mowing large Fields of Barly. Here, if the Inn be full, you may lye at the Countrey-mens Houses, who are ac∣custom'd to entertain Travellers, and get well by it. This place is famous for water-Melons, as big as our Pumpkins; and are the best in all Persia. The meat is very red, and as sweet as Sugar, which is a great refreshment to Travellers. The Kelonter of the place gave me two Raddishes, one weighing 30, the other 45 pounds, and were very good meat.

The 6th I set out after midnight, and travell'd till it was day through plains of Sand, over which it is impossible to find the way without a guide. About three a Clock in the morning I cross'd over two Bridges joyn'd together by a long Causey. Before I came to the first, I rode over another for a good quarter of a league, which Causey runs on a great way to the second Bridg, under which flows a salt River; the shoar of which is full of moving sands; so that before those Bridges were made, it was dangerous to ••oard it without a guide.

This Caus••y and the two Bridges were made and built by a Persian, whose name was Aly; who wanting employment at home, apply'd himself to the King of Golconda, who lik'd him so well, that he made him General of his Army. Being thus advanc'd, he also turn'd Merchant, and trading first with one Vessel, then with two, got a great Estate. At length, all that he had thus got in forty years, to get him∣self a name in Persia, he employ'd in making this Causey and the two Bridges.

These Bridges are both built over a River that comes from toward Kerman, and is swell'd by other streams that fall from the Mountains with a great noise and discharges it self into the Persian Gulph, neer to Bander Congo; but becomes brackish by passing through Mountains that are nothing but Salt.

From the great Bridg to Guitchi is one of the most pleasant Countries in all Persia, being a continu'd Grove. Guitchi is a place accommodated with two Inns, one a very fair one, and convenient; the other very ill seated, by reason of the dust that continually annoys it standing upon a sandy ground. It stands neer ten or twelve Arabian Tents; so that as soon as you come to the Inn, the Arabian Women presently bring Milk and Butter, and other refreshments.

A league and a half from Guitchi you meet with two Roads, one upon the left-hand that seems more beaten, the other upon the right. There a man may easily be deceiv'd that has no guides. For the left-hand way is a dangerous pas∣sage, and a kind of a continu'd Labyrinth among Rocks and Precipices. The right-hand way, which is the best, is all upon the sand to Bander-Abassi, and is usually a days journey. You meet with two Inns by the way, the last of which is call'd Bend Ali, built by the Sea-side.

From Bend-Ali to Bander-Abassi, is but a little more then two leagues through a Countrey abounding in Palm-trees.