Deceits in the White Calicuts.
THe deceits usually put upon Calicuts, are in fineness, length, and breadth. Every Bale may contain two hundred pieces; among which they will juggle in five or six or ten, less fine, or less white, shorter or narrower than according to the scantling of the Bale, which cannot be found out but by examining them piece by piece. The fineness is discern'd by the eye, the length and breadth by the measure. But the Indians practise a more cunning way, which is to count the number of threads which ought to be in the breadth, according to the fineness of the scantling. When the number fails, it is either more transparent, more narrow, or more course. The difference is sometimes so difficult to be perceiv'd, that there is no way to find it out but by counting the threads. And yet this difference in a great quantity comes to a great deal. For it is nothing to cousen a Crown or two Crowns in a piece that comes but to fifteen or twenty Crowns. Those that whiten these Calicuts, to save charges of a few Limons, will knock the Calicuts excessively upon a Stone, which does fine Calicuts a great injury, and lowers the price.
As for their Calicuts dy'd blew or black, you must take care that the Workmen do not knock them after they are folded, to make them look sleek; for many times when they come to be unfolded, you shall find holes in the creases.
As for your painted and printed Calicuts, which are painted and printed as they come out of the Loom, the Merchant must take care that what he bespeaks be finish'd before the end of the Rains, for the thicker the Water is where they are wash'd, the more lively will the printed and painted colours appear. It is easie to distinguish between the printed and the painted Calicuts; and between the neatness of the work: but for the fineness and other qualities, they are not so easily discern'd; and therefore the Broaker must be more careful.