An epitome of Mr. John Speed's theatre of the empire of Great Britain And of his prospect of the most famous parts of the world. In this new edition are added, the despciptions of His Majesties dominions abroad, viz. New England, New York, 226 Carolina, Florida, 251 Virginia, Maryland, 212 Jamaica, 232 Barbados, 239 as also the empire of the great Mogol, with the rest of the East-Indies, 255 the empire of Russia, 266 with their respective descriptions.

[illustration] map of Wales

WALES

The Description of WALES.

CHAPTER I.

ANtiquity hath avouched, that the whole Isle of Britain was divided into three Parts. The first and fairest lay contained within the French-Seas, the Rivers of Sev••rn••, D••••, and Humber, called then L••oyger, which name it yet retaineth in Welsh; in English called England. The second part occupied all the Land Northward from Humber, to the Orkney-Sea, called by the Latines, Mar•• Caledonium, or D••uc••l••••o••ium, now famously known by the name of Scotland. The third part was this, lying betwixt the Irish-Seas, the Rivers S••∣verne and Dee, and was called C••mbria, which name doth yet continue with them, though we, the E••g∣lish, call it Wales, as the People Welshmen, which is, strange and strangers; for so at this day the dwellers of Tyroll in the higher Germany, whence our Saxons are said to have come, do name the Italian their next neighbour) a Welshman, and his language Welsh.

(2) This opinion Versteg••n doth altogether contradict, rather judging by the ancient T••ut••••ick tongue, which the Germans spake, and wherein the G is pronounced for W that these S••xo••s called them Gallish from the Gaules, whence their original proceeded, rather than Wallish from strangers: which he thinketh could not be, considering their habitations so neer unto them; and that the like was in use, he proveth by the words of Erench Gardian for Wardian, Cornugalles for C••rw••lles, yea and Galles for Walles, calling our most famous Edward Prince of Galles not Prince of W••lles: inso∣much that the County of Lombardy, bordering along upon the Germans, was of them called G••lli••∣ci••

cis-alphina, and at this day Welsh-land. So likewise do the Netherlands call the Inhabitants of Henalt and Artois, Wallen or Wallo••s, and some part of Brabant and Flanders, Welsh-Brabant, and Welsh-Fla••∣ders, and all because of the Language and Lineage of the Gauls. Neither do the meer Natives of Wales know any other name of their Country than Cambria, of themselves than Cambri or Cumri, or of their Language than Cambraoc. But leaving this opinion free to his affection, we will proceed.

(3) Wales therefore being anciently bounded as before, the Saxons did afterwards win by force from the Britains, all the plain and Champion Country over the River Dee; and especially Offa King of Mercia, made their limits straighter, by making a Ditch of great breadth and depth, to be a Mear betwixt this Kingdom and Wales. This Ditch is in many places to be seen at this day, and bears the name of Clawh Offa, that is, Offaes Ditch. The Country between it and England is commonly called the Marches, and is for the most part inhabited by Welshmen, especially in North-Wales, even to the Ri∣ver Dee. This admirable Trench began at Bassi••gwerke in Elintshire, between Chester and Ruthland, and ran along the Hills to the South-Sea, a little from Bristow, reaching above an hundred miles in length.

(4) Silvester Giraldus makes the River Wye to be the Mear between England and Wales, on the South part, called South-Wales: whence he ascribeth the breadth of Wales unto Saint Davids in Men••∣vi••, to be an hundred miles; and the length from Caerleon upon Vske in Gwentland, to Holly-head in Angles••y, an hundred miles, he might have said thirty more.

(5) About the year of Christ 870, our Alfred reigning in England, Rodericus Magnus King of VVales did divide it into three Talaiths, Regions, or Territories, which were called Kingdoms. This Rodericus Magnus gave Ven••d••tia, Gwyneth or North-Wales, to Anarawd his eldest son; to Cadeth his second son Deme••ia, Debeu••arth or South-VValls; and to Mervin his third son, Powys.

(6) North-VVales had upon the North-side the Irish-Sea, from the River Dee to Bassingwerke to Aberdyvi: upon the West and South-West▪ the River Dyvi, which divideth it from South-VVales, and in some places from Powysland. And on the South and East, it is divided from Powys, sometimes with high Hills, and sometimes with Rivers, till it come again to the River Dee. It is generally full of high Mountains, craggy Rocks, great Woods, and deep Vallies, many strait dangerous places, deep and swift Rivers.

(7) This Land was of old time divided into four parts, Mon, Arvon, Meryonith▪ and y Bervedhwlan, or the middle Country, and each of these were again divided into several Countries, and they subdi∣vided into their Cymeden or Commots, wherein we follow that division which was in the time of Llewy∣lyn ap Ruffin, last Prince of VVales, according to a Copy imparted to me by a worshipful Friend and learned Antiquary, as seeming far more exact than that of Doctor Powels.

(8) A••gl••sey the chiefest, is separated from the main Land with the River Moenai, wherein at Aber∣fraw was the Princes Court, now a mean Village. In this Island is a fair Town called Beaumarish, And common passage to Ireland at Caergybi, in English, Holly-head.

(9) Arv••n, the second part of North-VVales, is now called Carnarvanshire, the strongest Country within that Principality, giving place to none for fertility of the ground, or for plenty of Wood, Cat∣tel, Fish, and Fowl, &c. Here are the Towns of Caernarvan, in old time called Caer-Sego••t, and Bangor the Bishops See, with divers other ancient Castles, and places of memory. This portion hath on the North, the Sea and Moe••ai; upon the East and South-East, the River Conwey, which divideth it from Den••igh-shire: and on the South-West is separated from Merionyth, by Rivers, Mountains, and Mears.

(10) Merionyth was the third part of Gwyneth, and keepeth the name till this day; it is full of Hills, and much noted for the resort of People that repair thither to take Herr••ngs. Upon the North it

hath Arvon and Denbigh land; upon the South, Caerdigan-Shire; and upon the East, Montg••m••ry-shire, heretofore part of Powis. In this County standeth the Town of Harlech, and a great Lake cal∣led Llyn-Tegyd, This Country is likewise full of Cattel, Fowl, and Fish, and hath in it great store of red Deer and Roes, but there is much scarcity of Corn.

(11) Y Bervedhwland was the fourth part of Gwyneth, and may be called in English, The middle Country: is inclosed with Hills, on the East, West, and South-parts, and with the Sea Northward. It is plentiful of Cattel, Fish, and Fowl, as also of Corn: and is divided in the midst with the River Clwyd, to which run a number of other Rivers from the Hills. In this part is Dyffryn-Clwyd, the fair∣est Valley within Wales, containing eighteen miles in length, and seven in breadth. In which is the Town and Castle of Ruthl••n, near unto the Sea; and not far thence, S. Assaph, an Episcopal seat, be∣tween the Rivers Clwyd and Elwy. Herein stands the fair Town and goodly Castle of Denbigh, situa∣ted upon a Rock, the greatest Market-Town of North-Wales: and from thence is seen the Town and Castle of Ruthyn, fair for prospect, and fruitful for fite. This part of North-Wales hath the Sea upon the North; Dee toward the East; Arvon, The River Conwey, and M••ri••nyth upon the West; and the Country then called P••wys, upon the South.

And these were the Mears and Bounds of the four Parts of Vened••tia, Gwyneth, or North-Wales.

(12) The second Talaith or Kingdom, was Mathraval or Powys. To this belonged the Country of Powys, and the Land between Wye and Sev••rne. It hath South-Wales upon the South and West, with the Rivers Wye and Tywy, and other Mears: upon the North, Gwy••eth; and upon the East, the Mar∣ches of England, from Chester to Wye, a little above Hereford. This part was divided into Powis Vadoc, Powis between Wye and Severne, and Powis-We••wynwyn. In Powis-Vadoc is the Castle of Holt in Bromefield and the Castle of Chirke in Chirk••land; the Castle likewise of Whittington; and Lordship of Oswestrie, with others.

(13) The second part of Powi••, or the Territory belonging to Mathr••v••l, is Po••is between 〈◊〉〈◊〉 and Severne, (or Guy and Hauren) whereof some is at this day in Montgo••ery-shir••, some in Rad∣nor-shire, and some in Brecknock-shire; and among sundry other, hath these Towns and Castles fol∣lowing.

Montgomery: The Castle of Cly••, The Town of Knight••n: The Castle of Cy••aron: Presteyn: The Town and the Castle of Rad••or, called in Welch, Maesyvet, which is at this day the Shire-Town: The Town of Kinton, and the Castle of Huntington.

(14) The third part belonging to Mathraval (the chief seat of Powis, after the Welsh were driven from Pe••gwern or Shrewsbury) was Powis Wenwynwy••, a County full of Woods, Hills, and Rivers, having in it among others, the Towns of Welsh-Pool, New-Town, Machin••a••th Arustly was anciently in this part, but afterward it came to them of Gwyneth.

This may suffice, for the description of that which in old time was called Gwyneth and Powis.

(15) It now remaineth that we describe the last Kingdom of Wales, called Demetia-Deheubarth, or the Talaith of Dinevowr, which although it was the greatest, yet was it not the best, because it was much molested with Flemings and Normans, and for that also divers parts thereof would not obey their Prince, as in Gwent, and in Morganwe.

(16) This was divided into six parts, of which Cardiga•• was the first, and is a Champion Country, without much Wood. It hath Merionyth-shire on the North: part of Powys upon the East: Carmar∣den-shire and Pembroke-shire, with the River Tivi, upon the South: and upon the West, the Irish-Sea. In this part is the Town of Cardiga•• upon Tivi, not far from the Sea; as also the Town of Aberstwyth upon the River Istwyth; and L••a••bad••r••evowr, which in times past wa•• a great Sanctuary: there were also many Castles; as of Str••tneyrie, of Walter, of L••an••ysted, of Dyv••rth, and of A••er-Royd••ll, &c.

(17) The second part was called Dyvet, and at this day Pembroke-shire. It hath upon the North and West, the Irish-Sea; upon the East, Carmarden-shire; and upon the South, Severne. There are in it sundry Towns and Havens: among others, these: Pembroke: Tenby: Hereford-West, with the goodly and many Branched Haven of Milford, called in Welsh, Aberdangledhett: S. Davids, or Menevia, which is the chiefest See in Wales: Fiscard, called Aberwayn: and Newport, named Tresdreth.

(18) The third part was Carmarden-shire, which is a Country accounted the strongest part of all South-Wales: as that which is full of high Mountains, great Woods, and fair Rivers.

(19) The fourth called Morganwe, now Glamorgan-shire, hath on the South, the Severne-Sea, which divideth it self from Devon-shire and Cornwall upon the West and North-West, Carmardenshire: upon the North-East, Brecknock-shire; and upon the East, Monmouth-shire.

(20) The fifth now called Gwent, and in Monmouth-shire, hath in it the ancient City of Caerlhe••n upon Vske. There are also divers Towns and Castles, Chepstow, Glynstrygul, Ros, Tynterne upon the Ri∣ver Wye, &c. This is a fair and fertile Country. It hath on the West, Glamorgan and Brecknock-shir••s: upon the North, Hereford-shire: upon the East, Glocester-shire: with the River Wye, and the River Se∣verne upon the South and South-East.

(21) The last is Brecknock-shire, for the most part full of Mountains, Woods and Rivers. This Coun∣try is both great and large, being full of fair Plains and Valley, for Corn; it hath plenty of thick Woods Forrests and Parks. It is full also of clear and deep Rivers, of which Severne is the chiefest; although, there be other fair Rivers, as Vske and the like.

(22) Thus far concerning the ancient Welsh division by Talaiths: but the present division di∣stributeth them more compendiously into two Countries, and twelve Shires, enacted so by Parlia∣ment under King Henry the Eighth. The Countries are North-Wales, and South-Wales, which have sha∣red,

and as it were devoured between them, all Powysland; each of which Countries contains 〈◊〉〈◊〉 Shires.

North-Wales,

• A••gles••y,
• C••ernarvan,
• Merionyth,
• Denbigh.
• Flint.
• Montgomery.

South-Wales.

• Cardigan.
• Pembroke.
• Carmarden.
• Glamorgan.
• Brecknock.
• Rad••••r.

But whereas Monmouth-shire and Radnor, were anciently parts, the first of South-Wales, the other of Powys-land: Monmouth-shire by Act of Parliament also under the same King, was pluckt away whol∣ly from Wales, and laid to England, one of whose Counties and Shires it was from that time forward, and is at this present reckoned; and Radnor-Shire (as it were in lieu thereof) is comprehended in South-Wales. Humphry Hluyd a Welsh Gentleman, in his Epistle and Map of old Wales, maketh menti∣on of a West-Wales, which he calleth Deme••ia and Dyfer, the one the Latine, and the other the British name there: but because it is wholly swallowed up by this last division, we will not perplex the Reader with superfluous and impertinent recitals.