Remarks upon the manners, religion and government of the Turks together with a survey of the seven churches of Asia, as they now lye in their ruines, and a brief description of Constantinople / by Tho. Smith ...

A Survey of the Seven Churches of Asia, as they now lye in their ruines.

THE curious surveys every where extant of Bethle∣hem, Nazareth, and Jeru∣salem, places so famous for the birth, education, and suffer∣ings of our Blessed Saviour, (which are owing to the industry and learn∣ing and curiosity of devout Pilgrims, who from the first ages of Chri∣stianity to this present, not without the design of providence, as I verily believe, have visited mount Calvary and the holy Sepulchre) suffer us not to be unacquainted with their situa∣tion and state: every one, who has but the least gust for Antiquity, or History, or Travel, or insight into Books, greedily catching at such re∣lations. But a sadder fate seemed to hang over the Seven Churches of

Asia, founded by the Apostles, and to which the eternal Son of God vouchsafed to send those Epistles re∣corded in the book of the Revela∣tion of St. John, which by the un∣pardonable carelesness of the Greeks, (unless that horrid stupidity, into which their slavery has cast them, may plead some excuse herein) have lain so long neglected; they giving us no account of their ruines, and the Western Christians either not caring or not daring to visit them. The English Gentlemen who live in Smyrna, out of a pious zeal and a justly commendable curiosity, some few years since were the first who made a voyage thither, to see the re∣mainders of that magnificence, for which those Cities were so renowned in the Histories of ancient times: and their practice and example have for the most part every year since in the Autumn been taken up and fol∣lowed.

During my stay at Smyrna, where I arrived about the middle of Fe∣bruary 1670. from Constantinople, in

order to get a safe passage for Chri∣stendom in our Fleet of Merchants Ships, then lading at that Scale, (the Corsairs of Algiers infesting the Me∣diterranean with their number and strength, and making all sailing in a single Vessel very dangerous) I was seized with the same curiosity. But an opportunity did not so easily pre∣sent it self: the waters were not then quite down, and the plains in several places scarce passable: besides, I wanted company, which is highly necessary in those Countreys both for security and convenience; ha∣ving had sad experience by my tra∣vels in other parts of Turkey of the difficulties and hazards of such voy∣ages: and especially in a voyage I made to Prusia in Bithynia, in which I narrowly escaped having my throat cut upon mount Olympus by several Janizaries newly arrived from Can∣dia, and travelling toward Constan∣tinople. But our Ships not depart∣ing till July following, the love and respect I had to Antiquity, and to the memory of those Churches, once

so famous, made me not only forget but despise danger: and it hapned very luckily, that three worthy Eng∣lish Gentlemen, Mr. Lewis, Mr. Ru∣dings, and Mr. Jolly (which last with one and fifty more most sadly perish∣ed by Shipwrack neer Mounts Bay in Cornwal in October 1671.) not long after acquainted me that they had taken up the same resolution, and would risque it too. The Spring was now advanced; and we were to set out with all convenient speed, before the heats encreased and grew excessive: and for our better safety, we hired two stout and honest Jani∣zaries, well known to our Nation; two Armenian Christians, a Cook, and three Grooms to look to our Horses; in all twelve of us. Which number was but necessary; for at that time of the year, when there is grass in the fields for their horses, the roads are infested with Robbers in strong and numerous parties, well mounted and armed, who take all advantages of assaulting passengers, and kill first, and rob afterwards:

sometimes coming twenty or thirty days journey out of the mountains of Cilicia, and from Georgia, to the furthermost Provinces of the lesser Asia lying toward the Archipelago for this purpose.

I cannot here conceal the extraor∣dinary civility and courtesie of the Cady of Smyrna, then newly promo∣ted to that Office, who hearing of our intended voyage, to oblige and gain the love of our Nation, sent one of his Servants to advise us to be well arm'd, and to have a good Guard with us; for that he was as∣sured there were murdrous Villains abroad on the high-ways, and that several had fallen into their hands. This advice was seasonable and most obliging: and accordingly we pro∣vided against all evil accidents as well as we could, relying chiefly up∣on the good providence of God, as our greatest and best security.

April the third 1671. we set out from Smyrna, and went about to the Northern-side of the Bay, which runs in a good way to the North-east,

riding for several hours neer the shore under the rocky moun∣tains of Gordilen, which with the opposite mountain Mimas, there be∣ing high hills also to the East, makes the Haven so secure for Ships, which lye as it were land-lockt. Our way lay Northward, and somewhat to the West. For that we might the better observe the turnings and windings of our journey, and the bearings of places, we took a Sea-Compass with us. Leaving Mena∣men, which I suppose is the Temnos of the Ancients, on the right-hand, a Town well situated, and considera∣ble for the trade of Dimity and Sca∣mity, we rode down to the River Hermus, not far distant from it, (ha∣ving in our way a very pleasant prospect of rich plains and mea∣dows) where we arrived after six hours and a half.

Hermus hath its rise in the greater Phrygia, and passing through Lydia and Aeolis, pours its waters into the Bay of Smyrna over against Vur∣law, (famous for its hot waters, men∣tioned

by Strabo under the name of 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, and much frequented by Turks and Greeks in the Summer-time) and not far from Foggia-vec∣chia the Phocaea of the Ancients, where the Athenians first setled a Colony.

The Channel as wide as the Thames at Windsor, and deep withal, and not being fordable thereabouts, we were ferried over it, the current being somewhat strong.

We rode along the banks of it towards Chiaus-kuy, situated about a mile from it, where we made our first Conac or nights lodging, having travelled this day about eight hours.

On the 4th, within three hours after our setting forth, we had a sight at some distance of the Bay of Elaea: and avoiding Guzelhisar, which from its distance and situa∣tion I take to be the old Aegae, a Town well situated on the rising of a hill, we came to the bottom of it, and went round it, it running in considerably to the N. W. and not

being able to reach Pergamus with any convenience, we ascended to a little Village, called by the Turks Clisia-kuy. Our days travel being almost ten hours; our way lying still Northward.

On the 5th. having rode through a wood for half an hour, we got in∣to the plain of Pergamus; a most delightful and fruitful plain; several parts of it plowed up, the rest yield∣ing excellent Pasturage: it extends it self to a very considerable length to the South-east; in some places abovt five miles over. On the North-west of the plain we left the river Cetius, which hath but a very small channel, and the Caicus to the South∣ward of it, which we past over at a miles distance from the City on a Stone-bridg of thirteen Arches, the City lying to the North-west of it, where we arrived after four hours.

The Caicus runs with a very smooth stream, the channel about half the bredth of Hermus, but very apt to overflow its low banks upon the descent of rain and the melting of

the snow upon the mountains, which makes those plains to be scarce passa∣ble for some time of the year. It runs into the Bay not far from Elaea, a City of Aeolis, (from whence it hath its denomination) called by the Turks Ayasman, on the western-side of it, the Scale of Pergamus; from which it may be distant about twelve or four∣teen miles: this river separating My∣sia from Aeolis.

Pergamus the chief City of My∣sia Hellespontica (called by the Turks with a very little variation Berga∣mo) is about sixty four miles from Smyrna to the North North-west of it. It lies under a very high and steep hill, by which sufficiently se∣cured from the cold Northern blasts. On the top of it is a Castle built ac∣cording to the old way of fortifica∣tion, which the Turks in a manner neglect, it being without any Artil∣lery or other provisions of War: they being altogether secure and free from the fears of having an enemy in those parts. This inscription is to be seen there on some ruines of Marble.

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From the Castle there runs down Eastward a good part of the hill a stone-wall; at the end of which some ruines of a fortification, that seems to have been built for the se∣curity of it that way.

The ancient Stone-buildings, now the ordinary dwelling houses of the Turks, still continue in several streets; the City by this means retaining somewhat of its former glory, amidst those many and vast ruines that lye about it, contrary to the fate of other Churches; most of whose ancient

structures are wholly ruined, and pitiful Turkish houses built of earth baked in the Sun, and beggerly Cot∣tages raised upon their foundati∣ons.

We went first to see the ruines of a Palace, (as it is judged to be) which lye in a street to the East part of the City; where we found five Pillars of polished Marble, of about seven yards in length, the Chapiters curi∣ously wrought, in a line equally distant: and further on, there being a larger space between, two other Pillars; all which serve now only as so many props to support a wall that is built close to them. They are confronted on the other side of the street with other Pillars of the same make, but whose Chapiters are bro∣ken, two lying along upon the ground.

More Eastward toward the plain lye very famous ruines of a Church dedicated to St. John, built of brick; about fifty six paces in length, and in bredth thirty two; the walls of a very great heigth, two rows of

windows on each side. Several Pil∣lars fixt within the body of the Church, but broken of, and wanting much of their due height: the Turks not willing to be at any pains to clear the earth where they are fixt, and the broken pieces serving their purpose as well; which is to place them at the extremities of their graves: abundance of which we found in their burying-places in our travels where ever we came. Un∣der the East end, a large Vault. On each side of the Church is a round building, the one exactly agreeing with the other. The doors very high; opposite to which is a great Nicchio or cavity in the wall; a Vault underneath sustained by a great Pillar; the foundation streng∣thened by several arches and pillars; it is eighteen of my paces in diame∣ter within; the walls very thick.

In the upper part of the City is the Rivolet Selinus, whose stream is very swift, running toward the South South-east into the Caicus; over which are built several Stone-bridges;

some with two, some with three arches. By the stream not far from the great Church, part of a wall is yet standing of about ninety paces.

On the other side of Selinus is a very handsome and large Church, formerly called Sancta Sophia, into which you ascend by several stone-stairs; now polluted by the Turks, and made a Mosch. We observed a passage under ground from the Castle to the Selinus, by which they sup∣plyed themselves with water. Along the side of a hill from the South-west are the remainders of an Aque∣duct.

On a hill to the west of the City we met with several vast ruines with six great arches over a water, which seems to have been formerly a com∣mon-shore; and South of this ano∣ther range of six arches more, with two large rooms. The former of these ruines the Turks call Kiz-serai or the Womens Seraglio; telling us, that anciently they were kept there, accommodating according to their

rude conception of things, who have not the least knowledg of Antiquity, the customs of former ages to the practice of their Emperor at Con∣stantinople, and fancying them to have been the very same.

More Southward is another great ruined building with arches, situated pleasantly upon a hill; from whence we had a good prospect of the Ci∣ty and the neighbouring Plain; hard by which is a Theatre, that opens to the South, the marks of the steps still remaining. In the declivity of which almost at the bottom is a Marble-stone about seven spans in length and two in bredth, with this inscription, 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉. On the oppo∣site side a Marble statue about two or three foot in the rubbish, which we caused to be removed by a poor Christian; this being the only way to preserve it; the Turks being such profest enemies to all humane figures, whether painted, or in Mosaick, or wrought in Brass or Marble, that it would quickly be defaced and bro∣ken, if it appeared above ground.

As we walk'd in the streets, we ob∣served several Vaults almost every∣where.

We went to see several ruines a∣bout a quarter of a mile out of Town, to the S. W. which seem to have been a fortification; under which are several Vaults that open one into another, which serve not only for the foundation of the build∣ing, but might also very convenient∣ly be made use of for a granary to lay their stores in, though now only a receptacle of cattel.

To the South much about the same distance are two mounts oppo∣site one to the other, raised artificial∣ly to command the passage, and se∣cure the Avenues that way; in the mid way lies the road: and the like toward the East.

The state of the Christians here is very sad and deplorable, there be∣ing not above fifteen families of them: their chief employment is gardening, by which they make a shift to get a little money to pay their harache, and satisfy the de∣mands

of their cruel and greedy oppressors, and maintain a sad misera∣ble life. They have one Church de∣dicated to St. Theodore; the Bishop of Smyrna, under whose jurisdiction they are, taking care to send a Priest to officiate among them.

In the Bagno we found an excel∣lent jarr of marble, not unlike a font; about five or six foot from the pavement, very neer seven yards in compass, with figures of horse∣men in relievo round about it, but broken somewhat at top: neer which is a curious marble-basin a∣bout two or three foot higher than it.

In the yard adjoyning we found this inscription upon a stone-pillar sunk in the ground.

MA. AEMILIO. AVR. PVB.
PROCVLO PRAEF.
FABR. MA. LEPIDI. AVG.
PROCVR.

SACRVM.

On it is engraven a Bulls head.

On a stone very high upon the wall is the figure of a dog, with these two verses under it.

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Having satisfied our selves with the view of Pergamus, on Thursday the 6th. about Sun-rise we set for∣ward in our journey toward Thya∣tira, our way lying almost due East, repassing the Cetius and Caicus; which last we forded at about two miles distance from the City.

After four hours we came to a river, whose channel was somewhat broad and banks very high, which we left on our left-hand; perchance the river Hyllus. After seven hours we arrived at Soma, a very large Town, situated under a high hill, and from thence passed in three hours to

Kirk-agach, or the Town of forty trees, placed under a hill also; the plain lying to the North of it: and so to Bak-hair, a Village so called from the pleasantness of its situa∣tion; those words signifying a fair prospect; where we took up our lodging after eleven hours travel.

On the 7th. from Bakhair after four hours we came to a Village cal∣led Mader-kuy, seated on a little hill, under which runs a little river, which loseth its waters in the Her∣mus. In the plain before it we saw several pillars (about forty or fifty) some fixt in the ground, and others lying upon the grass, no other ru∣ines being near. From this Village to Thyatira in one hour.

Thyatira (called by the Turks Ak∣hisar or the white Castle) a City of Lydia, is distant from Pergamus about forty eight miles; almost South-east, situated in a spacious plain about two miles and an half in compass. Very few of the ancient buildings remain here; one we saw, which seems to have been a market-place,

having six pillars sunk very low in the ground, about four spans only left above. We could not find any ruines of Churches; and en∣quiring of the Turks about it, they told us there were several great buildings of stone under ground, which we were very apt to believe from what we had observed in other places, where digging somewhat deep, they met with strong foun∣dations, that without all question have formerly supported great build∣ings; but the descriptions of the Ancients and the several inscripti∣ons that we found there put it out of doubt, that this is the true Thya∣tira: though the Greeks, who are prodigiously ignorant of their own Antiquities, take Tyreh, a Town twenty five miles to the South-east of Ephesus, to be the place, being deceived by the neerness of the sound the one has with the other; upon the same weak pretence, as they have mistaken hitherto Laotik, a Town not far from Ancyra (Angury the Turks call it) in Galatia, for

Laodicea; when we have most authentick proofs that it is placed neer to the river Lycus, and not far from Hierapolis.

On the pedestal of a pillar in the middle of a market-place covered, we found this inscription engraven in very fair characters.

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On the side of a large stone-coffin in form of a chest, the cover taken off, in the middle of a Court of a Seraglio, is the following inscription of six very long lines, the letters en∣graven small, and very close; where there is mention made twice of the City of the Thyatirenians.

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On another such sepulchral-stone now made use of by a Tanner, in his house might be read these words.

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We found several other inscrip∣tions, some of which I took, not be∣ing able to take all for want of time and convenience; the Turks in great companies, both men and boys, pressing upon me; (several stones be∣ing placed upon the walls reversed by these great enemies of Learning and Antiquity) who wondred at us, and thought us little less than mad for coming from so far as Smyrna to look upon a few old stones, which they make no other use of than to put into the walls of their houses,

breaking them off in the mid'st often∣times, as they have occasion.

I find by several inscriptions, that the inhabitants of this City, as well as those of Ephesus, were in the times of heathenism great votaries and worshippers of the goddess Diana.

In the corner of a street neer a fountain upon a broken stone put into a wall:

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To Diana goddess of the mountains: and in the burying-place of the Turks (who always bury their dead out of Town, and neer the high∣way, except their Emperors and their relations, or some great men, as Bassas or others, who have me∣rited well by their services of the Empire, who have the priviledg to be interred in Cities, as Constanti∣nople, Adrianople, or Prusia, neer the Moschs, or chanes in their own ground, which they had purchased) to the North-west of the City, where there are a great many stately pil∣lars,

which were designed to another use, is a very fair stone erected to the honour of one of her Priestesses Vlpia Marcella by the Senate and People.

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Upon a Tomb-stone in the said burying-place

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We saw several old pillars with inscriptions in a Chane; but the let∣ters were so effaced and broken, that they could not be well read.

In a back yard belonging to a Tanner.

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With these four Latin verses under.

VOTA SUPERVACUA FLETUS∣QUE ET NUMINA DIVUM NATURAE LEGES FATORUM∣QUE ARCUIT ORDO SPREVISTI PATREM MATREM∣QUE MISERRIME NATE ELYSIOS CAMPOS HABITANS ET PRATA VEATUM

In a back lane not far from the corner to the North-east of the Ba∣sar.

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This City has a very great con∣venience of water, which streams in every street, flowing from a neigh∣bouring hill to the Eastward of it about a mile off; there being above three thousand five hundred pipes, if the Turks may be credited, to con∣veigh it to every part of it. It is populous, inhabited most by Turks, who have eight Moschs here, few Christians residing among them; those Armenians we found there be∣ing strangers, who came thither to sell shashes, handkerchiefs, &c. which they bring out of Persia. They are maintained chiefly by the trade of Cotton-wool, which they send to Smyrna, for which commodity Thya∣tira is very considerable.

On the 8th we left Thyatira, and about a mile from the City in the

plains, we found a stone-coffin that had this inscription.

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As in the City we found several stones that had the name of Anto∣ninus engraven on them.

Within two hours we past a small river, which crost the plain from East to West; and a mile off another stream, which we supposed might arise from the same spring, and be divided from it.

After two hours more we arrived at a Village called Selinte-kuy, where were to be seen several excellent pieces of polished marble up and down, and some few ruines, which assure us sufficiently, though we had but just time to look into it, that it is not originally a Turkish Village, but was once inhabited by Christi∣ans,

especially considering the situa∣tion of it within a mile of a river, I suppose the Cryon, or rather the Halys, so fatal to Croesus formerly King of this Province; whose stream we found very swift, according to the ancient account given of it, pas∣sing thence into Hermus. About six or seven miles beyond is the Lacus Gygaeus or Colous, of about five miles in length from East to West, which we viewed upon the banks of it; after we had ascended the hill that leads to Marmora, (probably the Exusta of the ancients, so famous formerly for the sepulchre of Ha∣lyattes the Father of Croesus: ad∣mirably well situated, a spacious and fruitful plain lying under it) still a very handsome Town with several Moschs in it, one fairer than the rest, with a Tekeh or Monastery belong∣ing to it.

Hence we came into the plains of Magnesia, where the famous battel was sought between Antiochus and Scipio, victory after many turns and traverses, uncertain to which side to

encline, (the dispute being a long while maintained with equal fierce∣ness, prudence, and valour) at last falling to the latter, who hereupon had conferred upon him by the Souldiery first, and after by the Se∣nate, the glorious title of Asiati∣cus; which title he justly merited: the victory being of so great a con∣sequence, that several of the Asian Provinces, terrified with this success of theirs, immediately yielded, and became an accession to Rome's great∣ness. Leaving at some distance mount Mastusia and mount Sipylus, upon the rising of which stands Mag∣nesia, a Bashalick, though of late years governed by a Moselim or Deputy, which separates Ionia from Lydia to the East, we crost the plain toward mount Tmolus, called by the Turks Boz-Dag or the icy moun∣tain.

In our way we repast the Hermus over a large stone-bridg, that seems to have been built of late years, and after two hours and a half passing through a Village called Jarosh-kuy,

that lies about two miles on this side, we arrived at Sardes, having been eleven hours on horseback: our way all along from Thyatira ly∣ing almost due South.

Sardes (retaining somewhat of its name still, though nothing of its ancient glory, being called by the Turks Sart) is situated at the foot of the famous mountain Tmolus on the North side of it, having a spaci∣ous and delightful plain before it, watered with several streams that flow from the neighbouring hill to the South-east, and with the Pacto∣lus, arising from the same, on the East, and encreasing with its waters the stream of Hermus, into which it runs; now a very pitiful and beg∣gerly Village, the houses few and mean; but for the accommodation of travellers, it being the road for the Caravans that come out of Per∣sia to Smyrna with silk, there is a large Chane built in it, as is usual in most Towns that are neer such pub∣lick roads, or have any thing of trade; where we took up our quar∣ters,

the Turks refusing to admit us into their houses and lodg us, hear∣ing from our Janizaries, that we were Franks. The inhabitants are for the most part Shepherds, who look to those numerous flocks and herds which feed in the plains.

To the southward of the Town at the bottom of a little hill, the Castle lying eastward of them, are very considerable ruines still remain∣ing, which quickly put us in mind of what Sardes was, before earth∣quakes and war had caused those horrid desolations there; there being six pillars standing of about seven yards in compass; and about ten in heigth; besides several vast stones, of which the other pillars that are thrown down were made, one pla∣ced upon the other, and so exactly closed in those that stand, as if they were one entire piece, now lying by in a confused heap; the first row of pillars supporting huge massy stones that lye upon them.

From hence we went up to the Castle which lies eastward; the as∣cent

very steep, in some places al∣most perpendicular; so that we were forced to take a great compass about to gain the top of the hill, whereon it stands; easy enough to be under∣mined, having no rock to support it; but what might be as well im∣pregnable for its strength, as inac∣cessible for its heigth in former ages, which knew nothing of the prodi∣gious effects of the mixture of brim∣stone and salt-peter; and when they made use of no other artillery than cross-bows and slings. The wall still remain with several arched rooms, though somewhat narrow.

Hard by the entrance on the left∣hand there is this inscription.

〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉

Within the Castle we found this in∣scription upon the Chapiter of a pillar.

〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉

By which it appears that it was erected in honour of Tiberius the Emperor, whom Sardes ought to ac∣knowledg as a second Founder; he having taken care to repair the breaches caused by an earthquake, and having given it the form of a City again, as Strabo has record∣ed.

Easterly of the Castle lie the ruins of a great Church; and North of them other vast ruins, the walls still remain∣ing of a very considerable length, with several divisions & apartments; all which take up a great compass of ground: whether it was the chief Seat of the Governour, or the pub∣lick Court of Justice, or the place where the Citizens used to convene at this distance of time and in so great a confusion wherein it is in∣volved, is difficult to conjecture: but whatever it was when it stood, it

must needs have been very stately and glorious. We met with other ruines all along this tract, which made us quickly conclude, that the greatest part of the City lay this way.

The Turks have a Mosch, which was formerly a Christian Church; at the entrance of which are several curious pillars of polished marble. Some few Christians there are who live among them, working in gar∣dens and doing such like drudgery; but who have neither Church nor Priest to assist them and administer the holy Sacraments to them: into such a sad and miserable condition is this once glorious City & Church of Sardes, the Metropolis of Lydia, now reduced.

On the 10th we set out from Sar∣des, and in our way past over seve∣ral streams running down from Tmo∣lus, which enrich the pleasant plains we rode through.

After six hours we found in a bu∣rial-place of the Turks full of pieces of pillars and marble-stones (among

several others, but what were scarce legible, and required more time to transcribe than we could conveni∣ently bestow) this that follows.

〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉▪
......
.....

Three hours after we arrived at Philadelphia.

Philadelphia distant from Sardes to the South-east about twenty se∣ven miles, is situated upon the rising of mount Tmolus; the streets to a good heigth lying one above ano∣ther, which gives it a very advan∣tageous prospect from most parts in∣to the plain both toward the North and East.

It is called by the Turks Alah shahr or the fair City; which must be understood only in reference to the situation; for there is nothing of building in it to make it deserve that name. A City formerly of as great strength as beauty, having had

three strong walls toward the plain; a great part of the inmost wall yet standing, though decayed and bro∣ken down in several places, with se∣veral bastions upon it. Defended by them, but more by the valour of the inhabitants, it maintained its liberty, and held out against Vr-chan and Morat the first, when all the lesser Asia besides had been over-run by the Ottoman forces; but at last in the reign of Bayazid the first, whom the Turks call Yilderim or Lightning, after a long distance the Philadel∣phians having made several sallies, but all in vain, to remove and raise the siege, it was forced to submit to the fate of other Cities, and became a prey to the barbarous Conqueror, who was not wanting in cruelty to express his revenge and furious rage against the distressed Citizens for daring to withstand so long his victo∣rious arms: there being about a mile and a half out of Town to the South, a thick wall of mens bones consusedly cemented together with the stones; in all probability raised

by his command: (for sure none but such a Barbarian would have done it) in complyance perchance with some rash vow that he had made, when he lay fretting and storming before it. The Churches felt the terrible effects of his fury as well as the inhabitants; most of them be∣ing demolished and turned into dung∣hills; as it that of St. Johns to the South-east, most probably the Ca∣thedral for its largeness, where they throw their rubbish and filth, and the rest made Moschs. South∣ward is the river Cogamus flowing from the hill; abundance of Vine∣yards all along, which the poor Greeks used to cultivate, but were at that time deterred from making Wine, by reason of the severe prohi∣bition of the Grand Signor; so that here, as a Greek Pappas told us, they had scarce wine enough for the Sacrament. The City is very popu∣lous, there being above five hundred Janizaries in it, who according to their priviledges (the government being so much in their favour) can

be judged only by their Serdar or Captain; the Cady or Civil Gover∣nour having no power over them in the least. Next to Smyrna, Phila∣delphia has the greatest number of Christians above the other Metropo∣litical Seats, there being above two hundred houses of them there, and four Churches; whereof the chief is dedicated to 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, or to the holy Virgin St. Mary, the other three to St. George, (a great Saint among them) St. Theodore, and St. Taxiar∣ches.

We found several stones here with inscriptions, but what were either turned up-side down and so clapt in∣to walls, or else horribly defaced and broken. These six verses found entire upon a monumental stone in a Church-yard of the Greeks.

〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉

〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉

On the 12th, after three hours riding from Philadelphia, we past over the river Cogamus, whose chan∣nel was narrow, but stream deep and full; and leaving the plains some hours after, we climbed up the Tmo∣lus, which we found in some places very sleep and rocky; on each side covered with vast numbers of Pine and Firr-trees: and having gain'd the top, we entred into a wood very dangerous to passengers, there being that shelter for thieves in it, and that advantage they have, keeping toge∣ther upon the hills, between which the road lies, to pour down their shot upon them, and after three hours past out of it, and getting on the other side of the mountain, we came at last to a Village called Kosh∣yenigeh-kuy, where we lodged that

night, having travelled twelve hours compleat.

On the 13th, about a quarter of a mile hence, we went to see several ruines, which in all probability, by their distance from Hierapolis, must be those of Tripolis; of which no∣thing left but huge massy stones ly∣ing confusedly in heaps, and the ap∣pearance of a Castle and Theatre; neer to which we forded the Maean∣der, and about four hours after we came to Hierapolis.

Hierapolis (now called by the Turks Pambuck-Kulasi or the Cotton Tower, by reason of the white cliffs lying thereabouts) a City of the greater Phrygia, lies under a high hill to the North, having to the Southward of it a fair and large plain about five miles over, almost directly opposite to Laodicea, the river Lycus running between, but neerer the latter; now utterly for∣saken and desolate, but whose ruines are so glorious and magnificent, that they will strike one with horror at the first view of them, and with admira∣tion

too; such walls, and arches, and pillars of so vast a heigth, and so curi∣ously wrought, being still to be found there, that one may well judge, that when it stood, it was one of the most glorious Cities not only of the East, but of the World. The numerous∣ness of the Temples there erected in the times of idolatry with so much art and cost, might sufficiently con∣firm the title of the holy City▪ which it had at first, derived from the hot waters flowing from several springs, to which they ascribed a di∣vine healing virtue, and which made the City so famous; and for this cause Apollo, whom both Greeks and Romans adored as the God of Me∣dicine, had his Votaries and Altars here, and was very probably their chiefest Deity. In the Theatre, which is of a large compass and heigth from the top, there being above for∣ty stone-seats, we found upon a cu∣rious piece of wrought marble be∣longing to a portal these words

〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉

To Apollo the chief President, a ti∣tle peculiar to him. Where these springs arise, is a very large Bath curiously paved with white marble, about which formerly stood several pillars now thrown into it.

Hence the waters make their way through several channels which they have formed for themselves; often∣times overflowing them, and which cursting the ground thereabouts, which is a whitish sort of earth, turns the superficial parts into a To∣phus. Several Tombs still remain; some of them almost entire, very stately and glorious, as if it had been accounted a kind of sacrilege to in∣jure the dead; and upon that ac∣count they had abstained from de∣facing their monuments; entire stones of a great length and heigth, some covered with stones shaped into the form of a Cube, others ridge-wise. Some inscriptions we took, which here follow: the shortness of the time we staid there, and great dan∣ger we were in, not permitting us to take more.

1

• ...〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
• ...〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉

2

• ...〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
• ...〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
• ...〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
• ...〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉

3

• ...〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
• ...〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
• ...〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
• ...〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
• ...〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
• ...〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
• ...〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
• 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉.

4

• ...〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
• ...〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
• ...〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
• 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉.

Three hours and a half after we forded the Lycus; and having ascend∣ed a very high hill, after an hours riding through a very pleasant plain overspread with Olive-trees and Fig∣trees, we came to a poor Turkish Village, where we lodged.

On the 14th in the morning, we set forward for Colosse, where within an hour and a half we arrived Co∣losse, by the Turks called Chonos, is situated very high upon a hill, the plains under it very pleasant; but we were no sooner entred into it, but we thought fit to leave it; the inhabitants being a vile sort of peo∣ple; so that we doubted of our safety among them. There still re∣main some poor Christians, notwith∣standing those horrid abuses they are forced to endure: but without any Church or Priest: poor misera∣ble Greeks, who amidst that igno∣rance and oppression they labour un∣der, retain the profession of Chri∣stianity still, though they have for∣got their own language, and speak only Turkish. Hastily quitting the

Town, not long after we met the Vaivod of Dingilsley, a very large and handsome Turkish Town about four miles to the South from Laodi∣cea, with about three hundred horse in pursuit of a famous robber called Inge Morad, who with a party of two and twenty horse had alarmed the whole Countrey. Our way lay almost West to Laodicea, where we arrived after six hours and a half, and passing down the hill, lodged at the bottom of it to the North of the ruines in a poor Village called Congeleh.

Laodicea (called by the Turks Eski Hisar or the old Castle) a City of Lydia according to the Geogra∣phy of the ancients, is above twen∣ty miles distant from Colosse, situated upon six or seven hills, taking up a vast compass of ground. To the North and North-east of it runs the river Lycus at about a mile and a half distance: but more neerly wa∣tered by two little rivers, Asopus and Caper; whereof the one is to the West, the other to the South-east;

both which pass into the Lycus, and that into the Maeander. It is now utterly desolated, and without any inhabitant; except Wolves, and Jackals, and Foxes: but the ruines shew sufficiently what it has been formerly: the three Theaters and the Circus adding much to the state∣liness of it, and arguing its greatness. That whose entrance is to the North∣east is very large, and might contain between twenty and thirty thousand men, having above fifty steps which are about a yard broad, and a foot and a quarter in heigth one from another, the plain at the bot∣tom being about thirty yards over. A second that opens to the West; and a third, a small one, whose en∣trance is to the South: the Circus was about two and twenty steps, which remain firm and entire, and is above three hundred and forty paces in length from one end to the other, the entrance to the East. At the opposite extremity is a Cave that has a very handsome arch, upon which we found this inscription.

〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉.

To the South-east are the ruines of a fortification; not far an Aque∣duct, the channel of which is cut through massy stones: formerly there were two rows of pillars from South-east to the North-west, the bases only remaining, continued on a great way, and other rows from North-east to South-west, which probably might bound the walk leading to some Palace.

The walls of a very large Church still remain; to the West-side of which are adjoyning three very cu∣rious arches.

More to the Southward two rows of arches, five on each side.

On the Chapiter of a pillar I found these verses engraven.

〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉.

Upon a piece of white marble.

〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉

On the 16th we left the Village an hour after Sun-set, the Moon fa∣vouring us; and after six hours and a half, at the bottom of a small hill, but not far distant from a very high one we saw a boyling Fountain, whose waters were extraordinary hot and scalding; it sent forth a ve∣ry thick vapour like the smoke of

charcoal, which diffused it self over the plain. About half a mile thence we crost again the Maeander over a very rotten and dangerous wooden∣bridg, a fair and large bridg of stone somewhat above it being so broken in the midst, that there is no passing over it, and so entred upon the plea∣sant and fruitful plains of Apamea, watered by the Maeander, whose va∣rious windings and turnings we ob∣served with great pleasure and satis∣faction: riding all along its banks for several hours. After almost se∣venteen hours riding we arrived at Nozli.

On the 18th, after we had rode three hours from Nozli we came to a Village called Teke-kuy, very plea∣santly situated, and about a quarter of a mile thence on the right-hand went to see several great ruines that lye on the North upon a hill; be∣tween which and the opposite great hill is a very lovely plain. We made up to the ruines of the Castle, and a great Aqueduct: other vast ruines lying dispersed up and down for a

great way: these ruines are called by the Turks Sultan Hisar or the Sultan's Castle; and can be no other than those of Tralles, formerly the seat of a Bishop, and a famous City in the first beginnings of Christiani∣ty: situated about three quarters of a mile from the Maeander. Having travelled eight hours this day, we came to Guzel-Hisar, where we took up our lodging in a Chane.

Guzel-hisar or the fair Castle, a very great and well built Town, walled, and having very handsome gates, with several Moschs. We found in it several pillars and ancient build∣ings, which made us conclude from its distance from Tralles, that it is Magnesia ad Maeandrum, formerly the seat of a Bishop, to distinguish it from another City of that name in the same Province, upon mount Sipylus. It is now maintained by the trade of Cotton yarn, which they send to Smyrna, caravans going week∣ly hence.

On the 19th, from Guzel-Hisar to Gherme-aule we made it six

hours; our way lying North-west.

On the 20th, our way lay hence West by North, till we came to de∣scend the hill, upon the top of which we had seen the Island Samos to the North-west; at the bottom is a very large Aqueduct with three great arches below, and five above to con∣vey the water from one side of the hill to the other, and so to Ephesus, where we arrived after six hours.

Ephesus called by the Turks Aya∣saluk, formerly the chief Metropo∣lis of the Lydian Asia, and the seat of the Roman Proconsul, (who had the government of these parts) as being the principal City subject to his jurisdiction, was not then so fa∣mous in its flourishing and glory, as it is dismal and despicable at present; being reduced to an inconsiderable number of poor cottages, wholly in∣habited by Turks; distant from Smyrna to the South-east about forty six miles. It lies to the South of the river Caystrus in a plain (abounding with Tamarisk, growing to such an heigth as to hide a man on horse-back)

under two hills; the one to the South-east, which runs out but a little way; the other, which is ve∣ry high, to the South; under which lay the most considerable parts of the City: between which is a plain of about a quarter of a mile in bredth: upon the sides of both are very great ruines, the walls and some arches remaining: upon the latter are the ruines of a wall, which seemed to have bounded the City that way with several caves upon the declivity of it. There lye dis∣persed upon the ground in several places vast marble pillars; some white, others speckled; these latter hard by the Temple of Diana, of about seven foot in diameter, and about forty foot in heigth; their Chapiters fallen off, and lying neer them proportionable, of about ele∣ven or twelve foot square, and about four or five foot thick, the bases whereon they were fixed being alike thick.

The Temple of Diana (for so tra∣dition and fancy will have it, though I suppose it might have been a Christian Church built upon the ruines of it) is to the West North-west, where lye stones of a huge weight heaped one upon another; it lies North North-east, and South South-west, the entrance from the former, as we conjectured by reason of a very fair gate that way still remaining, formerly enclosed with a wall (taking up a good com∣pass of ground, where they might have their gardens and other accom∣modations) though most of it now broken down. To the West of it, having lighted our tapers, and made fast our cord, we went into the la∣byrinth on the right-hand, where af∣ter a descent of several foot, we crept through a narrow passage, and so past forward in a direct line; on each side were several rooms, that open into others, built arch-wise; the alleys being so low, that we were forced to creep through them too; and having continued for

above a quarter of an hour in these subterranean Vaults built very arti∣ficially, and intended only at first as a foundation of the Temple, (though not undeservedly called a labyrinth, by reason of its several turnings, and the difficulty of finding a passage out of it without the help of a clew) being somewhat solicitous of the ill effects of the damps and the thick air, which put us into an extraor∣dinary sweat, we hasted to enjoy the fresh air and the comfortable light of the Sun.

To the South-west of the Temple are the remains of a Watch-Tower or Castle, placed upon a high rocky hill, whence there is a very fair pro∣spect of the South-west Sea, and of the Promontory Trogyllium. Tradi∣tion will have this to be the place where St. Paul was imprisoned, out of reverence to which it is so called; though the situation, and the nar∣rowness of it, it being not above ele∣ven or twelve paces square, encline me to believe, that it was only in∣tended for a Watch-Tower to ob∣serve

what ships pass to and again in those Seas; from which it may be distant about five miles. Here we observed to the North-west the various turnings of the Cayster, more crooked than those of Maeander, watering the plains below.

On the North-east of Diana's Temple lies upon the ground a very large Font of porphiry, the in∣most circle being about six foot in diameter, which is called by the name of St. John's Font, there being four pillars not far from it, upon which they suppose it was raised. A thing very unlikely, that in those sad times of persecution under Domitian and Trajan, when the poor Christians were forced to serve God in grottas, and Converts were baptized secretly, there should be such care taken to do it in so stately a laver. On the East are the Aqueducts.

Upon the side of the Eastern hill is the Cave of the seven Sleepers, neer it several small arches; and more forward of them a very large

arch, within which are several little caverns.

On the North is St. John's Church, turn'd into a Mosch; about seventy paces in length, and five and twenty in bredth. In it are four pillars stand∣ing in a row of excellent porphyry, of about five foot in diameter, and much about the bigness of those that are in Sultan Suleiman's Mosch in Constantinople, and about forty foot in heigth, which support two Cuppolas, the glass windows still re∣maining; before it a very large and fair entrance.

Northward of the Church on the gate leading up to the new Castle are very curious figures engraven, representing several, who seem to be haled and dragged away, as if per∣chance the design had been to shew how the poor Christians were for∣merly seized upon and treated by their heathen persecutors.

Here are two very spacious Thea∣ters, the one under the Southern hill, the other to the West, neer which is a stately gate, where I found these words engraven in two places.

ACCENSORENSI ET ASIAE.

Upon a Pillar by the ruin'd Aque∣duct.

〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉

On a marble not far from Diana's Temple.

C. CLODIO. C. F. MAEC.
NUMMO. TRIB. LEG.
XIII. GEM. X. VIR. STL. IVD.
....PROVINCIAE ASIAE
....RTINIVS QUINTILIANVS
....IATIVS MATERNVS
....DIVS NVMMUS ACILIVS
....STRABO FILIVS FECIT.

On another hard by.

〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉

〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉

On the 21th, within a mile of Ephesus we past over the Cayster, a very deep river; and two hours af∣ter past through a narrow place of about thirty yards in length, cut ve∣ry deep through a rock, I suppose, done out of a capriccio to exercise the Souldiers, and to shew that no∣thing is too difficult and impossible for art and industry to effect. The marishes that lye below it on each side of the cause-way, and the low ground so apt to be overflown, may make it unpassable that way at some time of the year; but here, this ly∣ing upon the ascent of the hill, that cannot be pretended.

From hence we clambered over the Alyman, which is extraordinary bad way; part of the famous moun∣tain Mimas, (which runs as far as

Cape Cornobbero, the Turks call it Kara-borun or the Cape with the black nose, at the entrance into Smyrna Bay) which we past over in two hours. After ten hours we for∣ded a little river called Halesus, that runs into the Sea at Colophon; two hours beyond which is a Turkish Town called Giamo-bashee, situated in a spacious plain with several hand∣some Moschs in it; where not meet∣ing with any accommodation, we rode half a mile further to a poor Village called Karagick-kuy, where we lodged, and the next morning we arrived safe at Smyrna, being the twentieth day from our depar∣ture.

Smyrna, called by the Turks Es∣mir, lyes in the bottom of a Bay, which is encompassed with high mountains on all sides except to the West, about ten leagues in length, where is good anchoring ground, and the water deep; so that the Ships ride neer the Merchants scales, who for their convenience live to the water side. The bredth at the

bottom may be, I ghess, about two or three miles. To the North is the river Meles. This is one of the most flourishing Cities of the lesser Asia, both for its great trade and the number of its inhabitants; in which I include Franks, Jews and Armenians, as well as Greeks and Turks. Little of its ancient glory is left standing, earthquakes and fire and war having made as great desolations and wastes here, as in the other parts of Anatolia. 'Tis certain from the numerous founda∣tions continually dug up, that the greatest part of the buildings anci∣ently were situated upon the side of the hill, and more to the South: the houses below toward the Sea being built, since Smyrna became of late years a place of trade. On the top of the hill, which overlooks the Ci∣ty and Bay, is an old Castle without any regular fortifications about it, and in a manner slighted; there be∣ing only two or three guns for fashions sake mounted, with which they salute the new Moon of Bai∣ram,

and the Captain Bassa, when he comes into the Port with his ar∣mata of Galleys. Neer the entrance is a marble head, the nose of which is cut off by Turks out of their great zeal and hatred of all kind of hu∣mane figures especially. I found nothing in it observable but a Ci∣stern or perchance Granary under ground propt by pillars, and the bot∣tom curiously plaistered over; the work of the ancient Greeks: but much inferior to one I saw in the long Island just within the Bay on the side of a hill, into which there is a descent of about eight or nine feet; the buildings very regular and stately, having twenty pillars in length, and five in bredth, the distance between each about seven of my paces, that is above one hun∣dred and sixty paces one way, and above thirty five another.

At a little distance from which is another almost of the same bigness, but filled with water; the Island be∣ing altogether uninhabited, but full of wild hogs and hares.

On the sides of the other gate of the Castle are yet to be seen two Eagles, the ensigns of the Romans, delineated at large, and handsomely enough.

In our descent to the South-east we entred the Amphitheatre, where St. Polycarp first Bishop of this Ci∣ty was martyred, the stony steps be∣ing removed for the most part by the Turks for their buildings and other uses.

In the sides are still to be seen the two Caves opposite to each other, where they used to enclose their Li∣ons; fighting with beasts being in ancient times the great diversion of the people of this Countrey, and to which they usually condemned their slaves, and the poor Christians espe∣cially.

On the side of the hill, but some∣what lower, is the sepulchre of this great Saint, which the Greeks so∣lemnly visit upon the anniversary festival consecrated to his memory: in complyance with an ancient cu∣stom in use almost from the times of

his martyrdom, as Eusebius relates in the 4th Book of his Ecclesiastical History, chap. 15. It is placed in a little open room, that possibly might be some Chappel: in the entrance of which I found this inscription upon a marble stone now placed in a chimney.

〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉

The poor Greeks are very careful in repairing this monument, if it any way suffers, either by the weather, it being exposed to the air, or by the Turks, or by the Western Christi∣ans, who break off pieces of mar∣ble and carry them away as reliques; an earthen dish hanging by, to re∣ceive the aspers any either out of curiosity or veneration and respect to the memory of the blessed Mar∣tyr shall bestow for the repair of his Tomb.

Nigh hereunto are several arches, stones of huge bigness lying upon the ground, and a great building ha∣ving three large rooms upon a floor; which perchance was a place of Ju∣dicature: the front having been for∣merly adorned with four pillars, the bases of which at present only re∣main. Not many years since in a lane towards the North-east, digging for a foundation they met with se∣veral rows of square stones placed regularly one above another, and in all probability it might be part of a Fane or Temple in the times of Hea∣thenism. In the walls of the City I observed a great cavity almost in every square stone, resembling some∣what a Roman V, which some fancy might be in the honour of the Em∣peror Vespasian, who was a great be∣nefactor to this City. But the fi∣gure not being always the same, but admitting great variety, I am apt to believe it was rather made by the Masons, that the stones might be the better cemented together. About a mile from the Town are the ruines

of a Church, which the Franks call by the name of Janus's Temple: which I believe rather to have been dedicated to St. John the great Saint of the East, and that hence the mis∣take of the name is to be fetch'd.

The Turks have here thirteen Moschs; the Jews several Syna∣gogues; and yet tho Smyrna still re∣tains the dignity of a Metropolitical seat; the Greeks have but two Churches, the one dedicated to St. George, the other, if I do not mis∣remember, to St. Photinus. The Armenians have only one Church: in the Church-yard whereof, I met with these inscriptions.

In the Eastern division.

1

• ...〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
• ...〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
• ...〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
• ...〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
• ...

• ... 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
• ...〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
• ...〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
• ...〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
• ...〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
• ...〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
• ...〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
• 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉.

2

• ...〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
• 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉.

In the Southern.

1

• ...〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
• ...〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
• ...〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
• ...〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉

2

• 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉...
• ...〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
• ...〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
• ...〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
• ...〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
• ...〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
• ...〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉

3

• ...〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
• ...〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
• ...〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
• ...〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
• ...〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
• ...〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
• ...〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
• ...〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
• ...〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
• ...〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
• ...〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉

4

• ...〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
• ...〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
• ...〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
• 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉.
• ...〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
• ...〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
• ...〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉
• 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉.

For the other inscriptions, I must refer the learned Reader to the La∣tin copy.

By this short and imperfect sur∣vey the curious Reader may be sad∣ly convinced, in what a pitiful and deplorable condition these once fa∣mous and glorious Churches of Asia are at this day; Churches, which had the Apostles for their Founders, and which yielded so many Martyrs, and which abounded with so many myriads of Christians, whose pati∣ence and valour tired out and weari∣ed, and at last triumphed over the tyranny, the malice, and the hatred of their Heathen persecutors; and which afterward, when the Empire became Christian, and the civil power submitted it self to the law and disci∣pline of Christ, and when the Cross, which before was had in such exe∣cration, was held the highest orna∣ment of the Crown, advanced in splendor and glory above what they had enjoyed in the times of Heathe∣nism, & which upon a due considera∣tion of circumstances one might have

truly enough judged should have been eternal and placed almost out of all possibility of danger and ru∣ine, now turned into heaps of rub∣bish; scarce one stone left upon another, some of them utterly un∣inhabited, and the remains of all horribly frightful and amazing. I shall not here lament the sad traver∣ses and vicissitudes of things, and the usual changes and chances of mortal life, or upbraid the Greeks of luxury and stupidity, which have brought these horrid desolations up∣on their Countrey: these are very useful but very mean and ordinary speculations. That which affected me with the deepest anguish and most sorrowful resentment when I was upon the place, and does still, was and is a reflexion upon the threat made against Ephesus men∣tioned in the second Chapter of the Revelations of St. John, who made his abode in that City, and died there. Remember from whence thou art fallen, and do the first works: or else I will come unto thee quick∣ly,

and will remove thy Candlestick out of its place, except thou repent. And upon a farther and more serious consideration, as I sorrowfully walk∣ed through the ruines of that City especially, I concluded most agree∣ably, not only to my function, but to the nature of the thing, (and I am confident no wise or good man who shall cast his eyes upon these loose and hasty observations will deny the conclusion to be just and true) that the sad and direful calamities which have involved these Asian Churches, ought to proclaim to the present flourishing Churches of Christendom, (as much as if an Angel were sent express from Heaven to denounce the judgment) what they are to ex∣pect, and what may be their case one day, if they follow their evil example, that their Candlestick may be removed too, except they repent and do their first works; and that their security lyes not so much in the strength of their frontiers, and the greatness of their armies, (for neither of these could defend the

Eastern Christians from the invasion and fury of the Saracens and Turks) as in their mutual agreements, and in the virtues of a Christian life.

Notes

• Surveys of Palestine common.
• But not of the Seven Churches of Asia.
• English the first who made so∣lemn visits thither.
• Occasion of my voyage.
• The Cady of Smyrna's extraordi∣nary civi∣lity.
• Bay of Smyrna:
• Menamen.
• Hermus.
• Vurlaw.
• Bay of Elaea.
• As ap∣pears from Strabo, Geograph. lib. 13.
• Plain of Pergamus.
• Caicus.
• Pergamus.
• Selinus.
• Hyllus.
• Soma.
• Kirk-agach.
• Bak-hair.
• Mader-kuy.
• Thyatira.
• Selinte-kuy.
• Halys.
• Lacus Gy∣gaeus.
• Marmora.
• The plains of Magne∣sia.
• Mastusia and Sipylus.
• Magnesia.
• Tmolus.
• Jarosh-kuy.
• Sardes.
• Pactolus;
• Castle of Sardes.
• Philadel∣phia.
• Tripolis.
• Maeander.
• Hierapolis.
• Lycus▪
• Colosse.
• Dingilsley.
• Congeleh.
• Laodicea.
• Lycus.
• Asopus, Ca∣per.
• Plains of Apamea.
• Nozli.
• Teke-kuy.
• Sultan-Hi∣sar.
• Tralles.
• Guzel-Hi∣sar.
• Magnesia upon the Maeander.
• Gherme-aule.
• Island Sa∣mos.
• Ephesus.
• Diana's Temple.
• The Laby∣rinth.
• St. Paul's prison, or rather a Watch-Tower.
• Cave of the seven Slee∣pers.
• St. John's Church.
• Smyrna.
• Meles.
• Old Castle.
• Amphi∣theatre.
• The sepul∣chre of St. Polycarp.
• Janus's Temple.