Londinopolis, an historicall discourse or perlustration of the city of London, the imperial chamber, and chief emporium of Great Britain whereunto is added another of the city of Westminster, with the courts of justice, antiquities, and new buildings thereunto belonging / by Jam Howel, Esq.

Of the Twentie fifth Ward, or Alder∣manry of the City of London, called Farringdon Ward without, or Extra.

THe farthest West-ward of this City, being the twenty fifth Ward of London, but without the Walls, is called Farringdon without, and was of old time, part of the other Faringdon within, until the seven∣teenth of Richard the second, that it was devided and made twain, by the names of Faringdon Intra, and Faringdon Extra, as is afore shewed.

Touching Ornaments and Antiquities in this Ward; First, betwixt the said Newgate, and the Parish of St. Sepulchres, is a way towards Smithfield, called Gilt-Spur, or Knight-Riders street, of the Knights and other riding that way into Smithfield, replenished with buildings on both sides up to Pye-corner, a place so called of such a Sign, sometimes a fair Inne, for receipt of Travellers, but now divided into Tenements, and over against the said Pye-corner, lyeth Cock-lane, which runneth down to Oldburn Conduit. Beyond this Pye-corner, lyeth VVest Smithfield, compassed about with buildings: at first on the South side, following the right hand standeth the large Hospital of St. Bartholmews, founded by Rahere, the first Prior of Saint Bartholmewes thereto near adjoyning, in the year, 1102.

Alfune, that had not long before builded the Parish Church of Saint Giles, without Creplegate, became first Hospitelar, or Proctor for the poor of this House and went himself daily to the Shambles and other Markets, where he Begged the Charity of devout people for their relief, promising to the liberall givers, (and that by alledging Testimonies of the holy Scripture) reward at the hands of God. Henry the third, granted to Katherine late Wife to VVilliam Hardell, twenty foot of Land in length and breadth in Smithfield, next to the Chappel of St. Bartholomew, to build a Recluse or Ankorage, commanding the Mayor and Sheriffs of London, to assign the said twenty foot to the said Katherine, the eleventh of Henry the third, the foundation of this Hospital for the poor and diseased, and their special sustentation, was confirmed by Edward the third, the twenty sixth of his Reign; It was governed by a Master, and eight Brethren be∣ing Priests, for the Church, and four Sisters to see the poor served.

This Hospitall was valued at the suppression, in the year 1539, the thirty one of Henry the eighth, to five and thirty pounds, six shillings, seven, pence yearly. The Church remaineth a Parish Church to the Tenents dwelling in the Precinct of the Hospital; But in the year 1546, on the thirteenth of Janua∣ry, the Bishop of Rochester, preaching at Pauls Crosse, declared the gift of the said King to the Citizens, for relieving of the poor, which contained the Church of the Grey Fryers, the Church of Saint Bartholomew, with the Hospital, the Messuages, and appurtenances in Gilt-Spur, aliàs Knight-Riders street, Briton street, Peter Key, in the Parish of Saint Mary Magdalen, in old Fish-street, and in the Parish of Saint Bennet Huda, Lime-hurst, or Limehost, in the Parish of Stebunheth, &c.

Then also were Orders devised for relief of the poor, the Inhabitants were all called to their Parish Churches, where, by Sir Richard Dobbs, then Mayor, their several Aldermen, or other grave Citizens, they were by eloquent Orati∣ons perswaded, how great, and how many Commodities would ensue unto them, and their City, if the poor of divers sorts, which they named, were taken from out their streets, Lanes, and Alleys, and were bestowed and provided for in Hospitals abroad, &c. Therefore was every man moved, liberally to grant (what they would impart) towards the preparing and furnishing of such Hos∣pitals; and also, what they would contribute weekly towards their mainte∣nance for a time, which (they said) should not be past one year, or twain, until they were better furnished of endowment; To make short, every man granted liberally, according to his ability. Books were drawn of the Relief in every Ward of the City, towards the new Hospitals, and were delivered by the Major to the Kings Commissioners, on the seventeenth of February; and order was taken therein, at the six and twenty of July. In the year 1552. the repairing of the Gray Fryers House for poor Fatherless Children, was taken in hand; and also in the latter end of the same Moneth, began the repairing of this Hospi∣tall of St. Bartholmew, and was of new endowed, and furnished at the charges of the Citizens.

On the East side of this Hospital lyeth Duck-lane, which runneth out of Smithfield South, to the North end of Little Britain street.

On the East side of this Duck-lane, and also of Smithfield, lyeth the late dis∣solved Priory of St. Bartholmew, founded also by Rahere, a pleasant witted Gentleman, and therefore in his time called the Kings Minstrel, about the year of Christ, 1102. He founded it in a part of the before named Moorish ground, which was therefore a common Lay-stall of all filth, that was to be voided out of the City: He placed Canons there, himself became their first Prior, and so continued till his dying day, and was there buried in a fair Monument, renewed afterwards by Prior Bolton.

To this Priory, King Henry the second, granted the priviledge of a Faire, to be kept yearly at Bartholomew-tyde, for three dayes, to wit, the Eve, the Day, and the next Morrow; to the which, the Clothiers of England, and Drapers of Lon∣don repaired, and had their Boothes and standings within the Church-yard of this Priory, closed in with Walls and Gates locked every night, and watched, for safety of Mens Goods and Wares, a Court of Pipepowders was daily, during the Faire holden, for debts and Contracts.

On the North side of this Priory, is the lane truly called Long, which reacheth from Smithfield to Aldersgate-street.

This Lane is now lately builded on both the sides, with Tenements for Bro∣kers, Tiplers, and such like; the rest of Smithfield, from Long lane end, to the Barres, is inclosed with Inns, Brew-houses, and large Tenements.

On the West side is Chicken-lane, down to Cow-bridge; then be the Pens or Folds, so called of Sheep there parted, and penned up to be sold on the Market dayes.

Then is Smithfield Pond, which of (old time) in Records, was called Horse-Poole, for that men watered Horses there, and was a great water.

In the sixth of Henry the fifth, a new Building was made in the West part of Smithfield, betwixt the said Pool and the River of the Wells, or Turnmill-brook, in a place then called the Elmes, for that there grew many Elm-Trees, and this had bin the place of Execution for offenders; since the which time, the buil∣ding there hath bin so increased, that now remaineth not one Tree growing.

Amongst these new buildings is Cow-bridge street, or Cow-lane, which turn∣eth toward Holdbourn; in vvhich Lane, the Prior of Semperingham had his Inne, or London Lodging.

The rest of that West side of Smithfield, hath divers fair Inns, and other comely Buildings, up to Hosier-lane, which also turneth down to Houldbourn, till it meet with Cowbridge-street, from this Lane to Cock-lane, over against Pie-Corner.

In the year 1362. the thirty sixth of Edward the third, on the first five dayes of May, in Smithfield, were Justs holden, the King and Queen being present, with the most part of the Chivalry of England, and of France, and of other Nation, to the which came Spaniards, Cyprians, and Armenians, Knightly requesting aid of the King of England, against the Pagans that invaded their Con∣fines.

The 48. of Edward the third, Dame Alice Perrers, or Pierce, (the Kings Con∣cubine) as Lady of the Sun, rode from the Tower of London, through Cheape, accompanied by many Lords and Ladies, every Lady leading a Lord by his Horse Bridle, till they came into West Smithfield, and then began a great Just, vvhich endured seven dayes after.

In the year 1393. the 17th of Richard the second, certain Lords of Scotland, came into England, to get vvorship, by force of Arms, the Earl of Marre cha∣lenged the Earl of Nottingham, to Just vvith him, and so they rode together certain Courses, but not the full Challenge, for the Earl of Marre was cast both Horse and Man, and two of his Ribs broken vvith the fall, so that he vvas con∣veighed out of Smithfield, and so towards Scotland, but dyed by the vvay at York.

Sir VVilliam Darel Knight, the Kings Banner-bearer of Scotland, challenged Sir Percey Courtney Knight, the Kings Banner-bearer of England, and vvhen they had run certain Courses, gave over vvithout conclusion of Victory: Then Cookborne, Esquire of Scotland, challenged Sir Nicholas Hawberke Knight, and rode five Courses; but Cookborne vvas born over Horse and Man.

Now to return through Gilt-spur-street by Newgate, vvhere I first began, there standeth the fair Parish Church called St. Sepulchers in the Bayly, or by Chamberlain Gate, in a fair Church-yard, though not so large••s of old time; for the same is letten out for buildings, and a Garden plot.

This Church vvas newly re-edified, or builded, about the Reign of Henry the sixth, or of Edward the fourth, one of the Popham's, vvas a great builder there, and 'tis lately also vvashed over, and furbish'd.

Next to this Church, is a fair and large Inne, for the receipt of Travellers, and hath to signe the Sarasens Head, vvhere Oxford men resort.

There lyeth a street from Newgate, West, to the end of Turn again-lane, and winding North to Oldbourne Conduit; but of late, a new Conduit vvas there builded in place of the old, namely, in the year 1577. by VVilliam Lambe, sometime a Gentleman of the Chappel to King Henry the eighth, and after∣ward a Citizen and Clothworker of London.

From the West side of this Conduit, is the high way, there called Snow-hill, stretching out by Oldbourne-bridge, over the oft-named Water of Turn-mill-Brook, and so up to Old-bourn-hill, all replenished with fair Buildings.

Without Ould-bourn-bridge, on the right hand, is Gold-lane, as is before shew∣ed, up higher on the Hill, be certain Inns, and other fair Buildings; amongst the which, (of old time) was a Messuage called Scroops Inne, for so we finde the same recorded in the 37. of Henry the sixth.

This House was sometime letten out to Sergeants at the Law, as appeareth, and was found by Inquisition taken in the Guild-hall of London, before William Purchase Mayor, and Escheater for King Henry the 7th, in the 14th of his Reign.

Then is the Bishop of Elies Inne, so called of, belonging and pertaining to the Bishops of Ely, Will. de Luda, Bishop of Ely, deceased 1297. and gave this House, by the name of his Mannor, with the Appurtenances in Holdbourne, to his Suc∣cessors,

with condition, that his next Successor should pay a thousand Marks, to∣wards the finding of three Chaplains, in the Chappel there.

The first in the year 1464. the fourth of Edward the fourth, in Michaelmas Terme, the Sergeants at Law, held their Feast in this House; to the which, a∣mongst other Estates, Matthew Phillip, Mayor of London, with the Aldermen, Sheriffs, and Commons of divers Crafts, being invited, did repair; but when the Mayor looked to keep the state in the Hall, as it had bin used in all places within the City and Liberties (out of the Kings presence) the Lord Gray of Ruthen, then Lord Treasurer of England, unwitting the Sergeants, and against their wills (as they said) was first placed, whereupon, the Mayor, Aldermen, and Commons, departed home, and the Mayor made the Aldermen to dine with him; howbeit, he and all the Citizens were wonderfully displeased that he was so dealt with, and the new Sergeants and others, were right sorry there∣fore, and had rather then much good (as they said) it had not so hap∣pened.

Next beyond this Mannor of Ely-house, is Lither-lane, turning into the Fields. Then is Furnivals Inne, now an Inne of Chancery, but sometime be∣longing to Sir William Furnival Knight, and Thomasin his Wife, who had in Holdbourne two Messuages, and thirteen Shops, as appeareth by Record of Richard the second, in the sixth of his Reign.

Now again from Newgate, on the left hand, or South side, lyeth the Old Bay∣lay, which runneth down by the Wall, upon the Ditch of the City, called Houndsditch, to Ludgate: we have not read how this street took that name; but it is like to have risen of some Court of old time there kept; and we finde that in the year 1356. the thirty four of Edward the third, the Tenement and ground upon Houndsditch, between Ludgate on the South, and Newgate on the North, was appointed to John Cambridge, Fishmonger, Chamberlain of London, whereby it seemeth, that the Chamberlains of London, have there kept their Courts, as now they do in the Guild-hall: and till this day, the Mayor and Justi∣ces of this City, keep their Sessions in a part thereof, now called the Sessions Hall, both for the City of London, and Shire of Middlesex; over against the which House, on the right hand, turneth down St. Georges Lane, towards Fleet Lane.

In this St. Georges Lane, on the North side thereof, remaineth yet an old wall of stone, inclosing a peece of ground up Sea-cole-Lane, wherein (by report) sometime stood an Inne of Chancery; which House being greatly decayed, and standing remote from other Houses of that Profession, the Company removed to a Common Hostery, called of the signe, our Lady Inne, not far from Cle∣ments Inne, which they procured from Sir John Fincox, Lord chief Justice of the Kings Bench; and since, have held it of the owners, by the name of the New Inne, paying therefore six pounds Rent, by the year, as Tenants at their own will, for more (as is said) cannot be gotten of them, and much lesse, will they be put from it.

Beneath this Saint Georges Lane, is the Lane called Fleet-lane, winding South by the Prison of the Fleet, into Fleet-street, by Fleet-bridge.

Next out of the high street, turneth down a Lane, called the Little Bayly, which runneth down to the East end of St. Georges Lane.

The next is Sea-cole-lane, I think, called Limeburners Lane, of burning Lime there with Sea-cole; For we read in Record of such a Lane, to have bin in the Parish of St. Sepulchre, and there yet remaineth in this Lane, an Alley, called Lime-burners Alley.

Near unto this Sea-cole-lane, in the turning towards Oldbourne-Conduit, is Turn-again-lane, or rather, as in a Record of the fifth of Edward the third, Wind-again-lane, for that it goeth down West to Fleet Dike, from whence, men must turn again the same way they came, for there it is stopped.

Then the high street turneth down Snow-hill, to Holdbourne Conduit, and from thence, to Ouldbourn-bridge; beyond the which Bridge, on the left hand, is Shooe-lane, by the which, men passe from Ouldbourne to Fleetstreet, by the Conduit there.

In this Shooe-lane, on the left hand, is one old House, called Oldbourn-Hall, it is now letten out into divers Tenements.

On the other side, at the very corner, standeth the Parish Church of Saint Andrew.

From this Church to St. Andrew, up Oldbourn-hill, be divers fair builded Houses; amongst the which, on the left hand, there standeth three Inns of Chancery, whereof the first, adjoyning unto Crook-horn-Alley, is called Thavies Inne, and standeth opposite to Ely House.

Then is Fewter-lane, which stretcheth South into Fleet-street, by the East end of St. Dunstances Church, and is so called of Fewters (or idle people) lying there, as in a way leading to Gardens; but the same is now of later years, on both sides builded thorow with many fair Houses: and in the wast grounds and Gardens, betwixt Shooe-lane and Fewter-lane; there are now many fair convenient Houses, built by the Company of the Goldsmiths; as also a street called New∣street, betwixt Aldersgate and Redcrosse-street.

Beyond this Fewters Lane, is Baynards Inne, aliàs Mackworths Inne, which is of the Chancery.

Then is Staple-Inne also of the Chancery, but whereof so named, I am igno∣rant; the same of late, is (for a great part thereof) fair builded, and not a little augmented; And then at the Barres endeth this Ward, without Newgate.

Without Ludgate, on the right hand, or North side, from the said Gate, lyeth the Old Bayley, as I said, then the high street, called Ludgate-hill, down to Fleet-Lane; in which Lane standeth the Fleet, a Prison-house, so called of the Fleet, or water running by it, and sometime flowing about it, but now vaulted over.

Then also, against the South end of Shooe-lane, standeth a fair Water-Conduit, whereof William Eastfield, sometime Mayor, was Founder; for the Mayor and Commonalty of London, being possessed of a Conduit Head, with di∣vers Springs of water gathered thereunto, in the Parish of Padington, and the water conveyed from thence, by Pipes of Lead, towards London unto Teyborn, where it had lain by the space of six years, and more: the Executors of Sir Wil∣liam Eastfield, obtained Licence of the Mayor and Communalty, for them, in the year 1453. with the Goods of Sir William, to convey the said Water, first, in Pipes of Lead, into a Pipe, begun to be laid besides the great Conduit Head at Maribone, which stretcheth from thence unto a separall, late before made a∣gainst the Chappel of Rounseval, by Charing-Crosse, and no further; and then from thence, to convey the said water into the City, and there to make Receit, or Receits for the same, unto the Common-weale of the Commonalty; to wir, the poor to drink, the rich to dresse their Meats, which water was by them brought thus into Fleet-street, to a Standard which they had made and finished 1471.

From this Conduit up to Fewters Lane, and further, is the Parish Church of St. Dunstane, called in the West, (for difference from Saint Dunstane in the East.)

Next beyond this Church, is Cliffords Inne, sometime belonging to Robert Clifford, by gift of Edward the second.

Somewhat beyond this Cliffords Inne, is the South end of Newstreet, (or Chancelor lane) on the right hand whereof, is Sergeants Inne, called, in Chan∣cery lane.

And then next was sometime the House of the converted Jews, founded by King Henry the third, in place of a Jews House to him forfeited, in the year 1233. and the seventeenth of his Reign; who builded there for them, a fair Church, now used, and called the Chappel; for the Custody of Rolles and Re∣cords of Chancery, it standeth not far from the old Temple and the new; in thee which House, all such Jews and Infidels, as were converted to the Christian Faith, were ordained and appointed (under an honest rule of life) sufficient maintenance: whereby it came to passe, that in short time, there were gather∣ed a great number of Converts which were baptized, instructed in the Do∣ctrine of Christ, and there lived under a learned Christian, appointed to go∣vern them; since the which time, to wit, in the year 1290. all the Jews in England, were banished out of the Realm, whereby the number of Converts in this place was decayed, and therefore in the year 1377. this House was annexed by Patent, to William Burstall Clark, Custos Rotulorum, or Keeper of the Rolls of the Chancery, by Edward the third, in the fifty one year of his Reign; and this first Master of the Rolls was sworn in Westminster-Hall, at the Table of Marble-stone; since the which time, that House hath bin commonly called the Rolls in Chancery-Lane.

On the West side, sometime was an House, pertaining to the Prior of Necton Park, a House of Canons in Lincolnshire: this was commonly called Hereflete Inne and was a Brew-house; but now fair builded for the six Clerks of the Chan∣cery, and standeth over against the said House, called the Rolls, and near unto the Lane, which now entreth Fickets Croft, or Fickets field. Then is Shere-lane, opening also into Fickets field, hard by the Barres.

Next is Bride-lane, and therein Bridewell, of old time the Kings House; for the Kings of this Realm have bin there lodged, and till the ninth of Henry the third, the Courts were kept in the Kings House, wheresoever he was lodged, as may appear by ancient Records, whereof there are many; and for example, have set forth one in the Chapter, or Towers and Castles.

King Henry the eighth, builded there a stately and beautiful House of new, for receit of the Emperor, Charles the fifth, who in the year of Christ 1522. was lodged himself at the Black-Fryers; but his Nobles, in this new builded Bridewell, a Gallery being made out of the House over the Water, and thorow the Wall of the City, into the Emperors Lodging at the Black-Fryers: King Henry himself often times lodged there also; as namely, in the year 1525. a Parliament being then holden in the Black-Fryers, he created States of Nobi∣lity there.

In the year 1553. the seventh of Edward the sixth, the tenth of April, Sir George Barne, being Mayor of this City, was sent for to the Court at White-hall, and there at that time the King gave unto him, for the Communalty and Citi∣zens, to be a Work-house, for the poor and idle persons of the City, his house of Bridewell: and seven hundred Marks Land, late of the possessions of the house of Savoy, and all the Bedding and other Furniture of the said Hospital of the Savoy, towards the maintenance of the said Work-house of Bridewel, and the Hospital of St. Thomas in Southwark.

This gift, King Edward confirmed by his Charter, dated the 26. of June, next following. And in the year 1555. in the moneth of February, Sir William Ger∣rard Mayor, and the Aldermen, entred Bridewel, and took possession thereof, ac∣cording to the gift of the said King Edward, the same being confirmed by Queen Mary.

The Bishop of St. Davids had his Inne over against the North side of this Bridewell, as I have said.

Then is the Parish Church of St. Bridget, or Bride, of old time a small thing, which now remaineth to be the Quire; but since, increased with a large Body,

and side Iles, towards the West, at the charges of William Vinor Esquire, War∣den of the Fleet, about the year 1480. all which he caused to be wrought about in the stone, in the figure of a Vine, with Grapes and Leaves, &c.

The partition betwixt the old work and the new, sometime prepared as a Screne, to be set up in the Hall of the Duke of Summersets House at the Strand, was bought for eightscore pounds, and set up in the year, one thousand five hundred fifty seven.

The next is Salisbury Court, a place so called, for that it belonged to the Bi∣shops of Salisbury, and was their Inne, or London House, at such time as they were summoned to come to the Parliament, or came for other business: It hath of late time bin the dwelling, first of Sir Richard Sackvile, and after, of Sir Thomas Sackvile his Sonne, Baron of Buckhurst, Lord Treasurer, who very greatly inlarged it with stately Buildings.

Then is Water-lane, running down by the West side of a House, called the Hanging Sword, to the Thames.

Then was the White Fryers Church, called Fratres beatae Mariae de monte Car∣meli, first founded (saith John Bale) by Sir Richard Gray, Knight, Ancestor to the Lord Gray of Codner, in the year 1241.

King Edward the first, gave to the Prior and Brethren of that house, a plot of ground in Fleet-street; whereupon to build their House, which was since re-edified, or new builded, by Hugh Courtney, Earl of Devonshire, about the year one thousand three hundred and fifty, the four and twentieth of Edward the third.

John Lufken, Mayor of London, and the Commonalty of the City, granted a Lane, called Crockers-lane, reaching from Fleetstreet to the Thames, to build in the West end of that Church.

Then is the Sergeants Inne, so called, for that divers Judges and Sergeants at the Law keep a Commons, and are lodged there in Terme time.

Next is the New Temple, so called, because the Templers, before the building of this House, had their Temple in Oldbourn: This house was founded by the Knights Templers in England, in the Reign of Henry the second: and the same was dedicated to God, and our Blessed Lady, by Heraclius, Patriark of the Church, called the Holy Resurrection in Jerusalem, in the year of Christ, 1185.

Many Parliaments and great Councels have been there kept, as may appear by our Histories.

In the year 1308. all the Templers in England, as also in other parts of Chri∣stendom, were apprehended, and committed to divers Prisons.

Anno 1310. a Provincial Councel was holden at London, against the Tem∣plers in England, upon Heresie, and other Articles, whereof they were accused; but denyed all, except one or two of them; notwithstanding, they all did con∣fesse, that they could not purge themselves fully, as faultless, and so they were condemned to perpetual penance, in several Monasteries, where they behaved themselves modestly.

Philip King of France, procured their over-throw throughout the whole World, and caused them to be condemned by a general Councel to his advan∣tage as he thought; for he believed to have had all their Lands in France, and therefore seizing the same in his hands, caused the Templers, to the number of 54. or after Fabian, threescore, to be burnt at Paris.

Edward the second, in the year 1313. gave unto Aimer de la Valence, Earl of Pembrook the whole place & house, called the new Temple at London, with the ground called Fiquetes Croft, and all the Tenements and Rents, with the ap∣purtenances that belonged to the Templers in the City of London, and Suburbs thereof.

After Aimer de Valence (saith some) Hugh Spencer (usurping the same) held it during his life; by whose death, it fell again to the hands of Edward the third; but in the mean time, to wit, 1324. by a Councel holden at Vienna, all the Lands of the Templers (lest the same should be put to prophane uses) were given to the Knights Hospitalers, of the Order of St. John Baptist, called Saint John of Jerusalem; which Knights had put the Turks out of the Ile of Rhodes, and after, wan upon the said Turk, daily for a long time.

In the Reign of the same Edward the third, was granted (for a certain Rent of ten pounds by the year) the said Temple, with the Appurtenances thereunto ad∣joyning, to the Students of the Common Lawes of England, in whose possession, the same hath ever fithence remained, and is now divided into two Houses of several Students, by the name of Inns of Court, to wit, the Inner Temple, and the Middle Temple, who keep two several Halls; but they resort all to the said Temple-Church, in the round walk whereof, (which is the West part, without the Quire) there remain Monuments of Noblemen, buried to the number of eleven, eight of them are Images of Armed Knights, five lying Crosse-legged, as men vowed to the Holy Land, against the Infidels, and unbelieving Jews, the other three straight-legged. The rest are coaped stones, all of Gray Marble: the first of the Crosse-legged, was William Marshal the elder, Earl of Pembrooke, who died 1219. William Marshall his Sonne, Earl of Pem∣brooke, was the second, he dyed 1231. And Gilbert Marshall, his Brother, Earl of Pembrooke, slain in a Turnament at Hartford, besides Ware, in the year 1241.