A display of heraldry manifesting a more easie access to the knowledge thereof than hath been hitherto published by any, through the benefit of method : whereunto it is now reduced by the study and industry of John Guillim ...

CHAP. IV.

HItherto of Colours and Metals: Now of Furrs, according to the Series and Course of our Distribution before de∣livered, pag. 10.

Furrs (used in Arms) are taken for the Skins of certain Beasts, stripped from the Bo∣dies, and artificially trimmed, for the fur∣ring, doubling, or lining of Robes and Gar∣ments, serving as well for State and Magni∣ficence, as for wholsome and necessary use. And these thus trimmed and imployed, are called in Latin pellicei, à pellendo, of driv∣ing away, (quite contrary in sense, though like in sound, to pellices, à pellicendo, for drawing all to them) because they do re∣pel and resist the extremities of cold, and preserve the Bodies that are covered with them in good temperature.

These are used as well in doublings of the Mantles pertaining to Coat-Armours, as in the Court-Armours themselves.

Furrs do consist either of One colour alone, or, More colours than one.

[illustration]

That Furr that con∣sisteth of one Colour alone, is White, which in doubling is taken for the Lituits Skin, before spoken of, p. 11. An example whereof we have in this Esco∣cheon. Some perhaps will expect, that in the handling of these Furrs, I should pursue the order of Gerard Leigh, who giveth the preheminence of place unto Ermyn, for the dignity and ri∣ches thereof: but that form suiteth neither with the Method that I have prefixed to my self; nor yet with the Order of Nature, which ever preferreth Simples before Com∣pounds, because of their priority in time: For as Aristotle saith, Priora sunt composi∣tis incomposita: which order, as it is of all other the most reasonable, certain, and infal∣lible, so do I endeavour by all means to conform my self, in these my poor Labours, thereunto: Natura enim regitur ab intelli∣gentia non errante. Note that this, and all other the Examples following throughout this Chapter (as they are here placed) must be understood to be doublings or linings of Robes, or Mantles of State, or other Gar∣ments, wherein (according to Leigh) they all have one general Name, and are called Doublings; but in Escocheons they are cal∣led by Nine proper and several Names. What those Mantles are, shall be shewed hereafter, when I come to the handling of the second Member of Division before made. In the blazoning of Arms, this Colour is e∣vermore termed Argent, unless it be in the description of the Arms of one that is Reus Laesae Majestatis: but being a doubling, it is no offence (saith Christine de Pice) to call it White, because therein it is to be under∣stood only as a Furr or Skin.

Furrs consisting of more than one Colour, are either of Two Colours, or, More than two.

Such Furrs as are com∣pounded of two Co∣lours only, are sorted either.

• with Black, and are ei∣ther
  • Black mixt with white, as Ermyn, and Ermyns. or,
  • Black mixt with Yel∣low, as Ermynois and Pean.
• or without Black; such are, accord∣ing to Leigh,
  • Verrey, sez. A. and B.
  • and Verrey, Or, and Vert.

Knowledge is no way better or more rea∣dily attained than by Demonstration: Scire e∣nim est per demonstrationem intelligere, saith Aristotle. I will therefore give you parti∣cular example of their several Bearings.

[illustration]

Ermyn is a Furr con∣sisting of White, distin∣guished with black spots. Albane Earl of Brittain, unto whom William the Conqueror gave the Earldom of Richmond, and Honour of Middlesham, bore this Coat. You must Blazon this by the name of Ermyn, and not Argent powdred with Sa∣ble. This is the Skin of a little Beast, less than a Squirrel (saith Leigh) that hath his being in the Woods of the Land of Arme∣nia, whereof he taketh his name. The tail thereof is of a Thumbs length, which is of colour brown. The Aegyptians did propose this little Beast for an Hieroglyphick of Cha∣stity, Farnes. lib. 2. fol. 15. So greatly is this little Beast affected unto cleanness, as that she had rather expose her self to the hazard of being killed, or taken by the Hunters, than she would pollute her Coat with the filth of the Bird-lime laid before the entrance of the Cave to take her at her going in. Leigh, in the former part of his Accidence, fol. 132. seemeth therein to contradict himself, in that he affirmeth Ermyn to be no Colour, but a Compound with a Metal, and serveth as Me∣tal only. For mine own part, I do not see

how in doubling of Mantles it should be reckoned a Metal, for that all doublings or linings of Robes and Garments, though per∣haps not altogether, yet chiefly are ordain∣ed for the repelling of cold and weathers drift: to which use Metals are most unfit, as King Dionysius declared, when coming into a Church where the Images were attired in most rich golden Robes, he took them a∣way, saying, Such Garments were too cold for Winter, and to heavy for Summer. A fair pretence to cloak his Sacrilegious Ava∣rice. The same Author in his said Accidence, fol. 75. making mention of this Furr, taketh occasion to commend a late prescribed order for the distribution of this rich and rare Furr, according to the dignity of the persons to whom the wearing thereof is allowed, which is this; That an Emperour, a King, or a Prince, may have the powdering in their Apparel as thick set together as they please: a Duke may have in his Mantles cape, only four Raungs or Ranks of them: a Marquis three Raungs and a half: an Earl a cape of three Raungs only. In some Coats these are numbred, but then they extend not to the number of ten. These rows or ranks before named are of some Authors called Timbers of Ermyn: for no man under the degree of a Baron, or a Knight of the most honoura∣ble Order of the Garter, may have his Man∣tle doubled with Ermyn.

[illustration]

This is that other Furr, before mentioned, to consist of a mixture of White and Black, and hath some resem∣blance of the former: but differeth in this; that where that is com∣posed of White powder∣ed with black; contra∣riwise this is Black powdered with White. But neither in that, nor in this, shall you make any mention in Blazon of any such Mixtures, but only use the name appropriated to either of them, which doth sufficiently express the manner of their composition to the understanding of those that are but meanly skilled in Blazon; the name peculiarly allotted to this Furr, is Ermyns.

Mr. Boswell is of this Opinion, That Er∣myn and Ermyns ought never to be sorted in Arms with the Metal of their colour, be∣cause (saith he) they are but Furrs, and have no proper Blazon with any Metal. Yet doth he particularly Blazon the Coat of Wal∣cot, fol. 106. in the Atchievement of the Right Honourable Lord, Sir William Cecil Knight, late Lord Treasurer of England, where he might fitly have taken exception against such bearing, if he could have produced any good ground for warranting such his Opinion; in default whereof he there passeth the same over with silence, knowing that Antiquity and Custome (which hath the vigour of a Law, where there is no Law written) are powerful in things of this nature: he secret∣ly relinquisheth his Opinion, forasmuch as it is manifest, that not only Walcot, but Kings∣mell, and many others, both ancient and mo∣dern, have used such bearing without contra∣diction.

[illustration]

Of those Furrs be∣fore mentioned, that are compounded of Yellow and Black, this is the first, and is termed in blazon, Ermynois, whose Ground or Field is Yel∣low, and the Powdrings Black. Though this be rich in Arms (saith Leigh) yet in doubling it is not so rich. Of the use of this Furr, Bara maketh mention in his Book, entituled, Le Blazon des Armoiries, p. 14. and Edel. Hiryssen, in his Book, entituled, Le Iardyn d' Armoiries, in the Arms of Leefwelt.

[illustration]

This is that other Furr composed of the same Colours, but di∣sposed in a contrary manner to the former; for whereas that con∣sisteth of Yellow pow∣dered with Black, this is Black powdered with Yellow; and in Blazon is termed Pean.

These are other sorts of Furrs or Doub∣lings, consisting also of two only Colours, which as they are much different in form, so do they also receive a diverse Blazon from these before specified, which are these that follow, and their like.

[illustration]

He beareth Verrey, Or and Gules, by the name of Ferrers, and is the Coat of Io. Fer∣rers of Walton upon Trent in Derbyshire, Esquire. In Coats of this sort of bearing, in case where it may be holden doubtful whe∣ther should have the precedence, the Colour or the Metal; the Metal must have the pre∣eminence as the most worthy. The French men, from whom we do borrow our terms of Blazon, do call all sorts of Doublings or Furrs of this form, by the name of Vaire••

perhaps, Quia ex diversis coloribus alterna∣tim variantur. To this sort of bearing, there are no other terms of Blazon allowed. If your Vaire doth consist of Argent and Azure, you must in Blazon thereof, say only, He beareth Vaire; and it sufficeth: but if it be composed of any other Colours, then you must say, He beareth Vaire of these or those Colours. The Latin Blazoners, making men∣tion of this sort of bearing, do thus describe them, Portat arma variata ex pellibus al∣bis & caeruleis, accounting them for Skins of little Beasts. For that in ancient times they were used for linings of Robes, and Mantles of Senators, Consuls, Emperours and Kings, and therèupon are skilfully termed Doublings. Of this use of them, Alex. ab Alex. Genial. dierum, lib. 5. fol. 285. saith, Legimus Cali∣gulam depictas penulas induisse.

Sometimes it was permitted to men grown to years, to use a kind of short Cloak, called Penula, in time of wars, though it were in substance but sleight and thin: For Alexan∣der Severus the Emperour, in favour of a∣ged men, did grant them a Priviledge for wearing of this kind of Garments: Wolf. La∣zius, lib. 8. The Garments of the Tribune of the People, and of the Plebeian Sect, were most commonly this Penula before mention∣ed; like as also was Sagum, which was a Souldiers Cloak or Cassock, and Endromis, which was an hairy Garment much like an Irish Mantle and Hood. These were apt Garments for repelling of Cold. These were not Habits beseeming an Emperour, or chief Commander to wear; nevertheless we read that Caligula ware oftentimes Depictas Pe∣nulas, Alex. lib. 5. Amongst the rest this is to be observed, That Consuls were habi∣ted sometimes in Coat-Armors, called Palu∣damenta, and sometimes in Kirtles called Tra∣beae, which was a kind of Garment worn by Kings under their Mantles of State. So that they were sometimes said to be Trabeati, and sometimes to be Paludati, according to these several Habits. Also the Lictores were Officers that usually attended these Consuls, and were like unto Sergeants, or Ministers appointed to inflict corporal punishment up∣on Offenders, and were most commonly in number Twelve. These also attended the Consul to the wars, invested also with Coat-Armour.

Concerning those Depictae Penulae former∣ly mentioned, they are said to have been in use with Emperours of later Ages, that were addicted to wantonness and delicacy, whereof Tranquillus in Caligula, writeth in this manner, Vestitu, calceatuque & caetero habitu, neque patrio, neque anili, ac ne vi∣rili quidem, ac denique non humano semper usus est: saepe depictas gemmatasque Penulas indutus. Wolf. Lazius in Comment. Reip. lib. 8. 857. If you observe the proportion of this Vaire, you shall easily discern the very shape of the Case or Skin of little Beasts in them; for so did ancient Governours and Princes of the World (saith Sir Iohn. Ferne in Lac. Nob. pag. 68.) line their pompous Robes with Furr of divers Colours, sewing one Skin to another, after the plainest fashion. There is yet another kind of Furrs much differing from all other the Furrs before expressed, not on∣ly in shape, but in name also, as in Ex∣ample.

[illustration]

This sort of Furr or Doubling was (as Leigh noteth) of some old He∣ralds called Varry Cup∣py, and Varry Tassa, which (saith he) is as much to say, as a Furr of Cups; but himself calleth it Meire, for so he reckoneth it well Blazoned, very ancient, and a Spanish Coat. But I hold it better Blazoned, Potent coun∣terpotent, for the resemblance it hath of the Heads of Crowches, which Chaucer calleth Potents, Quia potentiam tribuunt infirmis, as appeareth in his Description of Old Age, in the Romant of the Rose.

So eld she was that she ne went A foot, but it were by potent.

So much of Furrs consisting of two Colours only: now of such as are composed of more than two Colours, according to the Division before delivered.

Such are these, and their like, viz.

• Ermynites.
• Vaire of many Colours.

[illustration]

This, at the first sight, may seem to be all one with the second Furr, before in this Chapter expressed, but differeth in this, that herein is added one hair of Red on each side of every of these Powderings. And as this differeth little in shape and shew from the second Furr, na∣med Ermyn; so doth it not much differ from the same in name, that being called Ermyn, and this Ermynites.

The other Furr that is composed of more than two Colours, is formed of four several Colours at the least, as in Example.

[illustration]

This differeth much from all the other Furrs, and (according to Leigh) must be bla∣zoned Vaire; this is composed of four di∣stinct colours, viz. Ar∣gent, Gules, Or, and Sable. Here I will note unto you a ge∣neral Rule that you must carefully observe, not only in the blazoning of these Furrs, but generally of all Coat-Armours, viz. that you describe them so particularly and plainly, as who so heareth your Blazon, may be able to trick or express the form and true por∣traiture thereof, together with the manner of bearing, no less perfectly, than if he had done it by some pattern thereof laid before him.

Although I have here in the Blazon of this kind of Furr, as also in the Table of this first Section put a difference between these three words, Vaire, Verrey, and Var∣rey, in ascribing to every one of these a particular property in the Blazon of Furrs differing in Metals and Colours; in which I must confess, I have followed Leigh; yet I do for my own part rather agree with Sir Iohn Ferne, who in the 86. pag. of his Book entituled Lacy's Nobility, writeth, That there is no other blazon allowed to a Doubling or Furr of this nature, than only Vaire, or vari∣ated; for which word variated I have ob∣served, that our English Blazoners use Ver∣rey, from the French Masculine participle, vaire; and Sir Iohn Ferne there further saith, That these differences of terms, Verrey, Var∣rey, and Vaire, are meer phantasies of Leigh his Blazon, and newly by him devised, with∣out any authority of Writers to inferr the same: And that before Leigh his time, all Authors had called this sort of Furr or Doub∣ling, Vaire: And if it be varied, or compo∣sed of Argent and Azure, then it is so cal∣ed, and no Colours named: but if it consist of any other Colour, then it is blazoned Vaire, of such and such Colours. And I shall here∣after in this my present Edition, always blazon a Furr of this nature, of what Me∣tal and Colours soever composed, yea, al∣though it consist of two Metals and two Colours, Vaire or Verrey, always naming the Metal and Colour, except it consisteth of Argent and Azure: And thus concluding the Chapter of Tinctures, being the first kind of Accidents of Arms, I will now go on to the second sort.