A late voyage to Constantinople containing an exact description of the Proportis and Hellespont, with the Dardanels, and what else is remarkable in those seas, as also of the city of Constantinople ... : likewise an account of the ancient and present state of the Greek Church, with the religion and manner of worship of the Turks, their ecclesiastical government, their courts of justice, and civil employments : illustrated ... in fourteen copper-plates ... / published by command of the French King by Monsieur William Joseph Grelot ; made English by J. Philips.

A Description of the Building and Eleva∣tion of Sancta Sophia.

WHich way soever you take a prospect of Sancta Sophia, of which the foregoing Draught by a Prospect to the North and West, it appears always square, for that the body of the

Church would be perfectly so, were it but only four Fadom more in breadth. At the four cor∣ners of the square, which is under the Domo, and which is rais'd upon the four large inside Pillars, stand four large massie Buttresses, admitting the light in at three Windows. In every one of which is an easy pair of stairs leading up to the top of the Church, mark'd in this plate with the letter B. Between which Butteresses run the Womens Gal∣leries, whither they also lead. Of which the upper are mark'd C. shorter and narower, as ter∣minating between the two large Buttresses. The other or the lowermost is mark'd D, broader and longer, as having the same dimensions with the wings of the Church. To the upper Gallery be∣long seven little Windows without, answering to as many Arches which were formerly open in the inside of the Church, now by the T••rks quite stop∣p'd up, as having no need of so many out-lets for their Women, since they are not permitted to come to Church. Above the roof of the upper Gynaikeion, runs a single Wall cover'd with an Arch, and receiving the light in at Twelve ill-shap'd Win∣dows; Seven of which are very small, and in a right line to the very roof of the upper Gallery, and Five somewhat bigger in the midst of the Seven below. All this is cover'd with a large Domo, on the top of which mark'd A, stands a pinacle of Brass guilded, with a Crescent of the same at the top. Which manner of finishing is observ'd in all the publick Buildings among the Turks.

Under this Domo, on the west part of the Church is a Semi-Dome with Five Windows, of which one is shut up. It appears at the side of two small Cupola's, which have between them one large semi∣circular window parted into six Lights, with a

thwart piece of stone-work, which rests upon two small Columns that support two others. Those two little Cupola's were only plac'd in that part for ornament, for they have no overture into the inside of the Church, nor into themselves, as not being hollow. Between these little Cupola's and the large Buttresses there are two other Semi∣Domes, one of each side, having formerly six Windows a piece. But the continual Earth-quakes were the occasion that some of them were stopp'd up. These two Demi-Domes upon the West side, with the two that answer them upon the East side, cover the four Semi-circles of the Quire, and the entrance into the Sophia mark'd in Fig. V. with the letter H.

A little below these three Semi-Domes runs a great Gallery with nine great Windows, every one of which is parted with a thwart piece of stone∣work, and a part of two little square Pillars, all of Marble, of which the Portico under it has as many. It is mark'd with the letter E. and is supported with six Buttresses, in the midst of which runs up a foursquare Tower mark'd H. it is not above Fifty Fadom high, and was therefore the Steeple former∣ly belonging to the Church; but could not contain very many nor very great Bells, in regard it was no bigger. Under the Buttresses behind the Steeple, is a little Portico or Nartex mark'd G. and near to it at the direction I, is a large door that leads to the Cocks of the Cistern under the Church. The Trees adjoyning shade a little Court belonging to the Officers of the Mosquee, whose lesser Chambers you may see at the letter O.

At the four corners of all the Building stand four Towers, all delicate pieces of Workmanship, except that which stands behind the Mosquee, of

which you see no part in this Draught but only the Spire near to the letter A. They are mark'd with the letter M. having above but one Gallery, which is as high as the Windows of the great Domo, but they bear their Pinacles above that of the Domo. Round about the two Minarets or Towers, upon the West side of the Church, are the three principal entran∣ces into them, mark'd in the Platform Fig. V. with the letter E. but in this last plate with the letter K. in regard that in this place there is but one to be seen. It is cover'd with a little Domo, at the side whereof there is a little stone cut into steps, for those that ride to the Mosquee, to alight, or to get up on Horseback. To the East of this Tower is to be seen one of the Entrances into the large Portico, mark'd E. This is the North entrance, where you descend by steps into the Church, by reason the pavement of the street in that place is higher then the Pavement of the Church. Within this entrance upon the left hand, as also at the other end of the Portico, appear two little doors opening upon an easie pair of stairs that lead to the upper Galleries. From this entrance into the grand Porti∣co, there runns a little Wall, that encloses the three North half Buttresses, and the space between them makes a little long Court, planted with some few young Trees. This wall ends at a little Octogon Chapel, which was formerly the Vestry, mark'd with the direction ✚ in Fig. V. and in this Draught with the letters P. Q. Between this little Chapel and the Tower behind it, is one of the entrances into one of the upper Galleries mark'd in Fig. V. with the letter E. but not to be seen in this latter plate, because this Chapel hides it in such a manner, that it is not to be discover'd, but as you enter, or stand just right against it: Now in

regard it was at this private and little frequented door that I always went into the Church to take my Draughts and observations of Sancta Sophia, I will recreate this tiresome description with the story of an accident that befell me, at what time I was at the height of all my business.

The eager longing which we have to see, and en∣joy what we desire, exposes us to many hazards. For the gaining of that, we sacrifice oftentimes what is most dear to us in the world. I met at Constantinople with two persons who had orders from His most Christian Majesty to Travel the East, and to bring him back upon their return the most exact Draughts and faithful relations of whatever they could meet with that was most worthy observation. To this purpose, as I was one day studiously rea∣ding their instructious, I found that among other things, they were expresly commanded, if it might possibly be accomplish'd, to take the Draught of the inside and outside of Sancta Sophia. Now un∣derstanding that neither of these two Travellers had dar'd to expose themselves to the danger, it came into my mind, perceiving they had left Con∣stantinople without adventring to pursue the Kings commands, that I might perhaps have better success, if for the satisfaction of my Prince I should take upon me to run a little more hazard then they were willing to undergo, that were under the Kings Sallery, and honoured with his commands.

Foreseeing therefore how dangerous a thing it was to take the Draughts and measures of Sancta Sophia, and that neither my long habit, my long beard, nor the Title and quality of Physician, which I took upon me, would stand me in any stead, I had recourse to intreague and policy. For we do meet with some persons, who by vertue of some engagements or other, do at length attain the

ends which they propose to themselves. To this purpose I address'd my self to a certain Greek, who had all the good qualities of a person who sought nothing more then to do kindnesses when opportuni∣ty offer'd. He was a Goldsmith by Trade, which he follow'd less then the zealous affection which appear'd in him to excess, to do courtesies for his friends. He liv'd near the Church, which made me believe he might be acquainted with some of the Officers belonging to it. To him therefore having particularly imparted my design, he told me, he would discourse the business to one of his Neighbours, and put me in farther hopes, that he did not doubt but that when he went to cary home certain toys which he was making for one of his Wives, he should accomplish my business over two or three Flingeans or cups of Coffee, especially having had success, in things of much more dan∣ger. I left with him a Venetian Sequin to drink, worth seven Livers, ten Sous French, and promis'd him more if he could but get me the liberty to take the Draughts and Measures of Sancta Sophia.

The next morning the Greek came to my Lodg∣ing at Galata, and carry'd me to Constantinople to a person near his house, with whom I had cer∣tainly made a better composition, had he drank as much Wine as he made use of Oyl. He was the chief Mu••tar Agasi, or Caudilafti, belonging to the Mosquee, that is to say, the chief of those who are imploy'd to look after the Lamps. Neither is the Muctariat of this Mosquee a small Office. For as it is his business sometimes to keep above two Thousand Lamps lighted at a time, especially all the Ramazan nights, it behoves him to have his hands as clean as a Mahometan, from all other de∣filement but those of durty Gold; to which pur∣pose he washes them every moment, not being

able to avoid the greasie kindnesses which the Oyl will sometimes drop upon his fingers. This good man, whom it was impossible to gain by never so many Lamps full of Wine, in regard he was an old curmudgeon that never drank any, told me at my first approaches, that his Goldsmith had ex∣treamly surpriz'd him, in acquainting him that I had a desire to take the Draughts and measures of the inside of Sancta Sophia; that perhaps I was igno∣rant, that the entrance into that holy place was open to none but Mussullmen, and that there could not be a greater crime then to admit a Giaur or infidell to take the Draughts and measures of that place as I design'd. True it was indeed, that having the care of the Lamps and the Galleries, he could giye me entrance above and below, without any danger, provided it were not in prayer time, but to stay three whole days as I desir'd, he could by no means permit me, without the hazard of his own life, as well as of mine, should I be discern'd by any one during prayer time, or be surprized by any of the other Officers who had keys as well as himself.

I understood by his canting what he drove at, and that there was a necessity of some other then the usual key to open the Gallery doors. To this end I made use of a neat Watch that I had bought by chance for three Venetian Sequins, though it were worth above ••ix, and which I carry'd with me out of a design to present him if he accomplish'd my purpose. This Watch I drew out, lookt what was a Clock, and then wound it up before his face. The baite took, the M••chtar fail'd not to ask me to let him see it, and finding it pleas'd his fancy, deman∣ded of me if I would fell it. I answer'd the Watch Watch worth ten Sequins, but since it pleas'd him,

I would pesent it to him jaba or gratis, if by his permission I might see the inside of Sancta Sophia, and stay there three or four days at several times, that I would go in before Salem-namasi or before day break Prayer, and that I would not stir out till after Accham-namasi or Evening Prayer: which since he had the Keyes himself, might be done without any hazard to himself or me, so he let no body in besides my self.

The covetous fox, having his eyes dazl'd with the sight of my Watch, cry'd out, bré guidi kiafer choc ister sen bir sahat ichun. Ah Devil of an Infidell you ask too much for your Watch. However he added, that seeing the earnest desire I had, he willingly granted for his part what I demanded; but that not being the only person that kept the Keyes of the Galleries, therefore to make sure work, it be∣hov'd me to speak to two Officers of the Mosquee, who as well as himself had all the Keyes of the same places; however he did not question but that for some small matter he should prevail with them to my satisfaction, and that he would give notice to the Goldsmith of his success.

The Greek either out of affection or interest seem'd to be most passionately concern'd in my behalf, not giving himself any rest for solliciting the Candilafti or Lamp-lighter to perform his promise, so that in few days he came to me like one overjoy'd, and told me that my business was effected, that I had nothing to do but to go the next Morning, being Monday, and wait at the private door of the Mosquee, which would not fail to fly open to me, by vertue of the charmes of my Watch and four Sequins more, which I was to give to the two other Officers mention'd by the Muctar: who being satisfy'd, I might have liberty to draw,

take measures, and do what else I pleas'd, but dig up the Foundations of the Mosquee.

I that had never pay'd less than five and twenty per cent for my Bills of Exchange, that I might not fail of my time, and thought my Watch a suffi∣cient price for the satisfaction of my curiosity, was very loath to part with my four Sequins, to the value of Ten Crowns; considering withal, that it was not a Mile to the bottom of my Purse. Never∣theless after many contests in vain, seeing those A∣dorers of Silver would not bate me a doit, alleadg∣ing still the great danger and hazard which they ran for my sake, I was perswaded to cross the Cudgells, that I might see some thing in Constantinople, which was a raritie, and which I was assur'd that no person but my self was ever before Master of: Thereupon I went to the place appointed, and foreseeing that there would be some want of a little refreshment in regard I was not going to keep the Turkish Ramazan or Lent, but only to draw the Draught of the Church, I carry'd with me a Bologna Sawsage, a Bottle of Wine, and a Loaf. Which had been sufficient to have cost me my dear life, had they found me eating Bacon and drinking Wine, the two abominations chiefly forbidden by their Law, and polluting with them the holyest of all their Mosquees. Thus I spent the first day well enough without any interruption in the Gallery. But the next day was not so calm. For whilst the Turk•• were at their Devotions, I fell to my Sawsage and Wine, and by that time they had done Praying, I had done eating; and was fallen very serious again to my business. When lo, athwart the Pillars at the other end of the Church in the Galleries, I per∣ceiv'd a tall long fellow stalking toward that part where I was, who I found had let himself in at

another door than that at which my Introductor had let me in.

I was firmly of belief, seeing a white Turbant, and a person whom I knew not, that my business was done, should it prove to be any other, than one of those whom the Muctar had made of the conspiracy. I was in a strange Quandary; some∣times I thought, because I was at my repast while the Turks were at Prayers, that some person had spy'd me from below, as having perhaps had the ill luck while the people in the Mosquee were pro∣s••rated with their heads to the earth, and kissing the Ground and crying out Alla hecher, to have too much exalted mine out of my zeal to drink their healths, and to play upon my soft Instrument to their lowd Musick. I was in a peck of trou∣bles, and knew not what to do in the condition wherein I was: besides that I knew not where to bestow my papers, pencills and Bottle, for which I could find no excuse in the world. It was a crime that neither stake nor fire could hardly have expi∣ated, to find a Giaur making figures, eating Pork, and drinking Wine, in the Turks Holy of Holyes. I must confess I was never in such a Pannic dread in all my life, and that I never saw the shape and likeness of death so exactly drawn before my eyes in all my days.

However though I firmly believ'd my self to be a person no longer of this world, yet that I might not be surpriz'd with my Bottle and Sawsage, I hid them together with my papers under a Carpet in a dark corner, with all the speed I could, and so drawing forth my Rosary, and a certain book which I had about me, written by Peter Gilius, I return'd to my feat, and put my self into a posture of one that had but newly said his Prayers.

Every step the Turk made toward the upper Por∣tico, from whence I had been drawing the bottom of the Church, my deadly fears augmented. But in regard he came but slowly on, I had time to re∣collect my Spirits, to put on a good face, and con∣firm my self in those resolutions I had always taken, which were rather to lose my Life a thou∣sand times, than my Praeputium once.

Thus feigning my self to be at my Prayers, I held my Book, which I had no great maw to look in at that time, in my left hand, and my Rosary in my right hand, with the Beads whereof I was fum∣bling, when the Turk approach'd me; and instead of a Salamalek, or How d'ye do, cry'd, Brè guidi giaur ne uhlersen bonda; Villain of an Infidel! what ma••' st thou here? I answer'd him, after I had look'd very seriously in my Book, and turn'd over two or three of my Beads according to the Musselmen's manner: Sir, I am at my Prayers, stay a little while I beseech ye.—After which, having made a Genu∣flexion, together with the sign of the Cross, I rose up to speak to him. Salamalekum Aga, said I, or Good day t'ye, Sir; then going on, You need not won∣der, Sir, quoth I, to find a Christian alone in the Galle∣ries of Sancta Sophia; adding, he knew it was a Church formerly built by the Christians, who had still a great Veneration for it, and being one of those, that I had obtain'd permission to be let in, to the end I might spend some few hours in Devotion and Prayer, and that I expected him who had let me in, to come suddenly and let me out again.

The Turk, who was one of those who had shar'd my four Sequins, having heard me, presently se∣ren'd his tempestuous Countenance, not being able to forbear laughing, to see in what a cold sweat he had put me (for he might easily read my distem∣per

[illustration]

THE SOUTH PROSPECT OF SANCTA SOPHIA.

in my looks), and to hear what a fine lye I had got already chew'd for him. Thereupon, he bid me be of good comfort, and cry'd, Courcmas Adam, Fear nothing; I knew, said he, you were here; and so having shew'd him some of my Draughts which he desir'd to see, he left me to take off the rest of my Bottle to recruit my Spirits.

An Explanation of Figure VII.

A. The Turks Colophon, or Pinacle-head, being a Fig. VII. crescent of Brass or Lead gilt.

B. Two of the four great Buttresses that support the Domo.

C. The Women's second Gallery.

D. The Women's lower Gallery.

d. The Stairs where the Priests and Deacons ascend with their Incense.

E. The upper Portico.

F. The South entrance into the lower Portico.

••. Buttresses that support the upper and lower Portico; under which is the Nartex or Porch for the Penitents and Proselytes.

H. The Steeple where the Bells hung formerly.

I. The Entrance down to the Cisterns under the Church.

K. The two West Gates opening into the first Portico, and so into the Church.

L. The Chains which the Turks put before all the Doors of those places to which they bear any respect, as before the Door mark'd with the Letter N.

M. The four Towers which the Turks have rais'd about the Temple instead of Steeples, of which the biggest and lowest, mark'd M*, was the first that was built in Constantinople.

O. A little Cloyster with Chambers for some of the Officers of the Mosquee.

P. The Fountain where the Turks wash before they enter the Temple.

Q. The Window where the Sybil of Sancta Sophia sits, an Officer employ'd to give Water to those that desire to drink.

R. S. The South enclosure, containing the Sepulchers of divers Grand Signors.

T. The Tombs of several Grand Signors, their Wives and Children.

T*. The Sepulcher of Sultan Mahomet and his six and twenty Children.

*T. Sultan Mustapha's Tomb.

Notes

• or two French Crowns and a half.