The English-American, his travail by sea and land, or, A new survey of the West-India's containing a journall of three thousand and three hundred miles within the main land of America ... : also, a new and exact discovery of the Spanish navigation to those parts ... : with a grammar, or some few rediments of the Indian tongue called Poconchi, or Pocoman / by the true and painfull endeavours of Thomas Gage ... 1648.

CHAP. XV. Describing the Countrey of Chiapa, with the chiefest Townes and Commo∣dities belonging unto it.

THough Chiapa in the opinion of the Spaniards be held to be one of the poorest Countries of America; because in it as yet there have been no mines disco∣vered, nor golden sands found in the rivers, nor any haven upon the South-sea, whereby commodities are brought in and carried out, as to Mexico, Guaxaca and Guatemala; yet I may say it exceedeth most Provinces in the greatness and beauty of fair Towns, and yeeldeth to none except it be to Guatemala; nay it surpasseth all the rest of America in that one, and famous and most populous Towne of Chiapa of the Indi∣ans. And it ought not to be so much slighted by the Spaniards as it is, if they would looke upon it as standing between Mexico and Guatemala, whose strength might be all Americaes strength, and whose weakenesse may prove dangerous to all that flouri∣shing Empire, for the easy entrance into it by the river of Tabasco, or for its neer joy∣ning and bordering unto Iucatan. Besides, the commodities in it are such as doe up∣hold a constant trading and commerce amongst the inhabitants themselves, and with o∣ther neighbouring Countries, and from no one part of America doth Spaine get more Cochinil then from one of the Provinces of Chiapa; the Townes also being great and populous, by their yeerly pole tribute do adde much to the King of Spaines reve∣nues.

This Country is divided into three Provinces, to wit, Chiapa, Zeldales, and Zoques; whereof Chiapa it selfe is the poorest. This containes the great Towne of Chiapa of the Indians, and all the Townes and farmes North-ward towards Maquilapa, and West-ward the Priory of Comitlan, which hath some ten Townes, and many farmes of Cattle, Horses, and Mules subject unto it; and neighbouring unto it lieth the great valley of Capanabastla, which is another Priory reaching towards Soconuzco. This val∣ley glorieth in the great river, which hath its spring from the mountaines called Cuchu∣matlanes, and runneth to Chiapa of the Indians, and from thence to Tabasco. It is also famous for the abundance of fish, which the river yeeldeth, and the great store of Cat∣tell which from thence minister food and provision both to the City of Chiapa, and to all the adjacent Townes. Though Chiapa the City, and Comitlan as standing upon the hils, bee exceeding cold, yet this valley lying low is extraordinary hot, and from May to Michaelmas is subject to great stormes and tempests of thunder and lightning. The head Towne where the Priory stands, is called Copanabastla, consisting of above eight hundred Indian inhabitants. But greater than this is Izquintenango at the end of the valley and at the foot of the mountaines of Cuchumatlanes Southward. And yet bigger then this is the Towne of St. Bartholomew Northward at the other end of the valley, which in length is about fourty miles, and ten or twelve onely in breadth. All the rest of the Townes lie towards Soconuzco▪ and are yet hotter and more subject to thunder and lightning, as drawing neerer unto the South-sea coast. Besides the abundance of cat∣tell, the chiefe commoditie of this valley consisteth in Cotton-wooll, whereof are made such store of mantles for the Indians wearing, that the Merchants far and neer come for them. They exchange them to Soconuzco and Xuchutepeques for Cacao, whereby they are well stored of that drinke. So that the inhabitants want neither fish which) they have from the river) nor flesh (for that the valley abounds with Cattell) nor clothing (for of that they spare to others) nor bread, though not of wheat, for there growes none; but Indian Maiz they have plenty of; and besides they are exceedingly stored with fowles and Turkeys, fruits, Hony, Tobacco and Sugar∣canes.

Neither is mony here nor in Chiapa so plentifull as in Mexico and Guaxaca; and whereas there they reckon by Patacones, or pieces of Eight; here they reckon by Tostones which are but halfe Patacones. Though the river be many waies profitable to that valley, yet it is cause of many disasters to the inhabitants, who lose many times their children, and their Calves and Colts drawing neere to the water-side, where they are devoured by Cayman•…•…s, which are many and greedy of flesh, by reason of the many prizes they have got. The City of Chiapa Real, is one of the meanest Cities in all America, consisting of not above four hundred housholders Spaniards, and about an hundred houses of Indians joyning to the City, and called el barrio de los Indios, who have a Chappell by themselves. In this City there is no Parish Church, but onely the Cathedrall, which is mother to all the inhabitants. Besides, there are two Cloisters, one of Dominicans, and the other of Franciscans, and a poore Cloister of Nuns, which are burdensome enough to that City. But the Jesuites having got no footing there (who commonly live in the richest and wealthiest places and Cities) is a sufficient ar∣gument of either the poverty of that City, or of want of gallant parts, and prodi∣gality in the gentry, from whose free and generous spirits they like Horse-leeches are still sucking extraordinary and great almes for the Colledges where they live; but here the Merchants are close handed, and the Gentlemen hard, and sparing, wanting of wit and Courtiers parts and bravery, and so poore Chiapa is held no fit place for Jesuites. The Merchants chiefe trading there is in Cacao, Cotton-wool from the adjacent parts of the Country, in Pedlers small wares, and in some Sugar from about Chiapa of the Indians, in a little Cochinil; for commonly the Governour (whose chiefe gaine consi∣steth in this) will not suffer them to be too free in this commoditie, lest they hinder his greedy traffique. These have their shops all together in a little Market-place before the Cathedrall Church, built with walkes and Porches, under which the poore Indian wives meet at five a clock at evening to sell what slap and drugges they can prepare most cheape for the empty Criolian stomackes. The richer sort of these Merchants go and send yet further to Tabasco for wares from Spaine, such as wines, Linnen cloth, Figs, Raisins, Olives, and Iron, though in these commodities they dare not venture too much, by reason the Spaniards in that Country are not very many, and those that are there, are such as are loath to open their purses to more then what may suffice nature. So that what are Spanish commodities are chiefly brought for the Friers who are the best and joviallest blades of that Countrey. The Gentlemen of Chiapa are a by word all about that Country, signifying great Dons (dones, gifts or abilities I should say) great birth, phantasticke pride, joyned with simplicity, ignorance, misery and penu∣ry. These Gentlemen will say they descend from some Dukes house in Spain, and im∣mediately from the first Conquerors; yet in carriage they are but clownes, in wit, a∣bilitics, parts and discourse as shallow brained, as a low brooke, whose waters are scarce able to leap over a pibble stone; any small reason soone tries and tires their weak braine, which is easily at a stand when sense is propounded, and slides on speedily when non-sense carrieth the streame. The chiefe families in this City, are named, Cortez, Solis, Velasco, Toledo, Zerna, and Mendoza. One of these, who was thought the chiefe in my time, called Don Melchor de Velasco, one day fell into discourse with mee concerning England, and our English nation, and in the best, most serious and judici∣ous part of his Don-like conference, asked me whether the sun and moone in Eng∣land were of the same colour as in Chiapa, and whether English men went barefoot like the Indians, and sacrificed one another as formerly did the Heathens of that Coun∣trey? and whether all England could afford such a dainty as a dish of Frixoles (which is the poorest Indians daily food there, being black and dry Turkey or French beanes boyled with a little biting Chille or Indian pepper with garlicke, till the broath be∣come as black as any Inke) And whether the women in England went as long with child, as did the Spanish women? And lastly, whether the Spanish nation were not a farre gallanter nation then the English? When I perceived my Don ran farther and farther into his simple and foolish questions, I cut him off suddenly, telling him, Sir, It is long since I came out of England, if you give me leave to recollect my memory, I will answer some of these your hard questions the next time we meet (thinking hereby to try my Dons wit further, whether he could perceive I jeared him.) To which my simple Don replyed, I pray Sir doe, and whensoever you come, you shall be welcome to a dish of Frixoles. With this I tooke my leave of him, and at our farewell, he againe desired

mee to study well his questions, and to return him a speedy answer, whereby I was more confirmed in my conceit of my Don, that he was either tonto or bobo, foole or simple. Yet thought I my best way to answer is to answer a fool according to his folly, and so resolved within two or three daies to return unto him some simple answer according to his simple and foolish questions. Therefore speedily I singled out a good occasion of meeting with him at his own house, who welcomed me with much Spanish gravity, and sitting down before Donna Angela, his painted wife and Angel; began to answer, or more to jeer his Donship. I began with the Sun and Moon, telling him that they were planets, & had their speciall influences upon severall nations, as all planets have upon mans body. And so they did shew themselves according to the inclination of the people of severall King∣domes. And therefore as the Spaniards were much inclined to Venus and to beauty, and not contenting themselves with the naturall beauty of their faire Ladies, would yet have Art add to nature by the skill and use of the best painting colours; so these glo∣rious planets of the Sun and Moon among the Spaniards, and especially in Chiapa, shewed themselves most comely, bright, glorious and beautifull, working the like in∣clination to beauty upon, and in all Spaniards. My instance was in the land of the Blackmores, where I told them that their bodies were black, and that among them the Sun appeared with a dark and sad visage. Here my Don cried out; An excellent example. I gave him yet a second instance from the Eclipse of the Sun; which being eclipsed, made all the Earth, mens faces and bodies seeme of a darke, or yellow co∣lour, to shew the proportion or sympathy of sublunary odies to that high and overmaste∣ring plnet. To this that good Don replyed; sennor no se puede decirmas, sir, nothing can be an∣swered or said more or better. Vengamos agora a Ingalatierra, Let us draw now to England. To which I answered him, that in England the Sun and Moon appeared halfe yeer of one colour, and half of another; for the women one half yeer it appeared as in Spain and Chiapa, beautifull and glorious, for that naturally without painting they yeelded to none in beauty. But the other half yeer it appeared as red as blood, or scar∣let; and the reason might easily bee guessed at, for that no Nation is more warlik and high spirited then the English, whose very clothes were fiery, wearing more scarlet then any nation in the World; a•…•… hee might perceive by their coming so much with their ships to the Indian Coasts to fight with the Spaniurds; and that as they delighted to goe in red, and to bee like the Sun, so naturally they were brought to those Sea•…•… to single out such ships as from America carried the rich Commodity of Cochinill, where∣of they make more use then Spain it selfe to die their cloaths and Coats withall. Here my Don jogged his head, and replyed; Sir, I thought no nation had been so like the Sun as the Spaniards; for I have read that when our Ancestors came to conquer these parts, the Indians called them, hijos del Sol, that is, sons of the Sun, being comely and gallant, and more like the Sun then any other people. To this I answered him. Sir, no doubt but you are like the Sun here, and none more glittering and bright, your very hatbands shining with Pearls and Diamonds like the brightnesse of the Sun; But as I said before the Blackmores are like their Sun, so I say, the English is like their Sun, which is red, and so doe and will affect to wear Scarlet, as long as any Cochinill is to be found in the India's.

Now Don Melchor began to understand mee, and told mee, never man had satisfied him with better reasons then my self. Hee thanked mee heartily, and told mee, hee thought no Gentleman in Chiapa could tell so well as himself now why the English ships came so much upon their Coasts; and that my discourse had satisfied him to the full. Hee desired mee to goe on to his other questions. To his second de∣manding whether the English went barefoot like the Indians, I told him I thought that the Count of Gondomar, (who had been many yeers Ambassadour from Spain in England) had satisfied all the Spaniards that doubt▪ who coming from England to Ma∣drid, and being there asked by some Courtiers, whether London was as big as Madrid, and as well peopled, he made answer, that hee thought there was scarce a hundred left in London. Hee proved it from the use and custome of his own Countrymen of Spain; who when they are to make a journey, shew themselves two or three daies before in colours, walking with boots and spurs, that their friends may take notice that they are departing out of the Towne or City. So said the Count of Gondomar, I think by this there are very few People in London; for when I came from thence I left them all almost in cloaths of colours, bo•…•…d and spurred as ready to depart and take some

journey. And truely my Don (quoth I) your owne Count hath answered for mee; yet I say, the English are so farre from going barefoot, that they goe booted, and are all in a readinesse to move out of England for any noble and generous designe; but a∣bove all they are still ready for America, where they know is store and abundance of Hydes to make them Bootes to cover the barenesse of their legges, that they may not be suspected to be like bare-footed Indians. Here Don Melchor replyed, I pray sir, when they come by Sea to these parts doe they come also booted and spurred? For I should thinke, when they fight, their spurs should hinder them. To this his doubt I answered first, as concerning spurres in the ships, with the exam∣ple of one of his own Nation, and of the best Divines in Spain, living in my time in Valladolid, called Maestro Nunno, (Reader of Divinity in the Colledge of St. Gre∣gorie, but in his carriage and experience in the World a simple noddy) who be∣ing invited by a Noble man to goe with him in his Coach out of the City a mile or two to a garden of recreation, went hastily about the Colledge to borrow boots and spurs; and when he had put them on, being asked whither he went, and why he put on boots and spurs, answered that he was to goe in a Coach out of the City, and that hee thought the Coach and Mules would want spurs to goe and come the sooner. Even so my Don (quoth I) the English men come booted and spurred in their ships, to make their ships sail on the swifter. And this is the reason why the English ships saile faster, and when they are in fight turn about quicker then a Spanish Galeon, because they are spurred & kicked within. O sir, I humbly thank you (said Don Melchor) for that by your discourse now I know the truth of what indeed I have often heard say, that the English ships are nimbler, and quicker at Sea then our heavy Galeons. Now as for fighting the English mens spurs (said I) are no hinderance to them, but rather a great advantage. For they fight with weapons, with their hands and with their feet, wherein they exceed the Spaniards; for when they have shot with their peeces, or cut down with their swords any enemy, or knocked him with their holbards, then with their feet and spurres, they fall upon him, and so soone rid him out of the way, that hee may no more rise up against them. All you have told mee (said the wise Velazco) stands with so much reason, that my judgment is convinced by you. As for eating and sacrificing one another like the Indians (I told him) that the English filled their bellies so well with fat Beef and Mutton, fowles, Rabbits, Partridges and Pheasants, that they had no stomacke at all to mans flesh. And that truly for frixoles dressed with garlick, that onely daintie dish was wanting in England; and that for Garlick, three reasons moved the English not to bee lavishing of that little they had; first, for feare they should want it for their horses drenches; secondly, for that they felt not themselves so much troubled with the wind, nor puffed up with windy and vaine conceits as other nations did; but thirdly and chiefly they refrained from it among them∣selves, that they might not smell of it, and that by the sent and smell of it a farre off at Sea they might when they came to the Coast of America, smell out a Spanish ship, and know it from a Hollander. Here my Don Melchor fell into admiration, as∣suring mee, hee had never heard more solid reasons from any man. Alas poore Criolian of Chiapa (thought I) if I had spoken sense, thy shallow braine had not beene able to have leaped over it, but after non-sense thou art easily carried away. As for his last question, I told him that was above my reach, for that poore Fryers ought not to meddle with women, neither had my mother ever told mee how long shee went with mee. But how ever if Donna Angella would tell mee how long shee went with her children, I would by the constellations of the Heavens search out against our next meeting, how long the English women went with their children. To this my Don Melchor answered that he would not trouble me to study what he thought was not belonging to my profession; but he knew that if I would study that or any other hard & difficult point, I could give him more & better satisfaction then any scholar in that City.

And thus (Reader) by this Don Melchors wit and ability would I have thee judge of the Gentlemen Criolians or natives of Chiapa; and yet as presumptuous they are and arrogant, as if the noblest bloud in the Court of Madrid ran through their veines. It is a common thing amongst them to make a dinner only with a dish of Frixoles in black broath, boyled with pepper and garlicke, saying it is the most nourishing meat in all the India's; and after this so stately a dinner they will be sure to comeout to the street∣dore of their houses to see and to be seen, and there for halfe an houre will they stand

shaking off the crums of bread from their cloaths, bands (but especially from their ruffes when they used them) and from their mustachoes. And with their tooth-pic∣kers they will stand picking their teeth, as if some small Partridge bone stuck in them; nay if a friend passe by at that time, they will be sure to find out some crum or other in their mustacho (as if on purpose the crums of the table had been shaken upon their beards, that the losse of them might be a gaining of credit for great house keeping) and they will be sure to vent out some non-truth, as to say, A Senor que linda perdiz he comido oy, O Sir, what a dainty Partridge have I eat to day, where as they picke out nothing from their teeth but a black husk of a dry frixole or Turkey bean. Though great in blood and in birth they say they are, yet in their imployments they are but rich Grasiers, for most of their▪ wealth consisteth in farmes of Cattell and Mules. Some indeed have Townes of Indians subject unto them, whereof they are called En∣comendero's, and receive yeerly from every Indian a certaine Pole tribute of fowles and mony. They have most cowardly spirits for warre, and though they will say, they would faine see Spaine, yet they dare not venture their lives at sea; they judge sleeping in a whole skin the best maxime for their Criolian spirits. One hundred figh∣ting souldiers would easily lay low those Chiapa Dons, and gain the whole City, which lyeth so open to the fields, that the Mules and Asses come in and grase, the streets being very commodious to entertain Asses from within, and from without. Yet in this City li∣veth commonly a Governour, or Alcalde Major, and a Bishop. The Governours place is of no small esteem and interest, for that his power reacheth farre, and he tradeth much in Cacao and Cochinil, and domineers over both Spaniards and Indians at his will and pleasure. But ill gotten goods never thrive, as was seen in Don Gabriel de Orellana (Governour of this City and Countrey in my time) who having sent the worth of eight thousand crownes in Cochinil, Cacao, Sugar, and Hydes by the river of Tabas∣co towards the Havana lost it all into the hands of the Hollanders, who doubtlesse knew how to make better use of it, then would have done that tyrannizing Governour. The Bishops place of that City is worth at least eight thousand duckats a yeer, which truly he had need of that comes so far from Spain to live in such a City where are such able Dons, as Don Melchor de Velasco, and where Asses are so freely fed and bred. Most of this Bi∣shops revenues consisteth in great offerings which he yeerly receiveth from the great In∣dian Townes, going out to them once a yeer to confirme their children, whose confir∣mation is such a means to confirme and strengthen the Bishops revenues, that none must be confirmed by him who offer not a faire white Wax-candle, with a ribban and at least foure Rials. I have seen the richer sort offer him a Candle of at least six pound weight with two yards of twelve penny broad ribban, and the Candle stucke from the top to the bottom with single Rials round about. Nay the poore Indians make it the chiefe master piece of their vanity to offer proudly in such occasions. Don Bernar∣di•…•… de Salazar was the Bishop of this City in my time, who desired my company to ride with him his circuit but one moneth, about the Townes neer to Chiapa, and in this time I was appointed by him to hold the basin wherein the Spaniards and Indians (whilst he confirmed their children) did cast their offerings, which my selfe and a∣nother Chaplaine did alwaies tell and cast up by good account before we carried the mony up into his chamber, and I found that at our returne at the moneths end he had received one thousand and six hundred duckats of onely offerings, besides the fees due to him for visiting the severall companies, or sodalities and confraternities belon∣ging to the Saints or soules in their purgatory (which are extraordinary rich there) whereof he and all other Bishops in their district take account yeerly. This Bishop was (a•…•… all the rest are there) somewhat covetous; but otherwise a man of a temperate life▪ and conversation, very zealous to reforme whatsoever abuses committed in the Church, which cost him his life before I departed from Chiapa to Guatemala. The wo∣man of that City 〈◊〉〈◊〉 seems pretend much weakenesse and squeamishnesse of stomack, which they say is so great, that they are not able to continue in the Church while a Masse is briefly hudled over, much lesse while a solemn high Masse (as they call it) is sung, and a Sermon preached, unlesse they drinke a cup of hot Chocolatte, and eat a bit of 〈◊〉〈◊〉 strengthen their stomacke•…•…. For this purpose it was much used by them to make their maids •…•…ing to them to Church in the middle of Masse or Sermon a cup of Chocolatte, which could not be done to all, or most of them without a great confusion and interrupting both Masse and Sermon. The Bishop perceiving this abuse

and having given faire warning for the omitting of it, but all without amendment, thought fit to fixe in writing upon the Churches dores an excommunication against all such as should presume at the time of service to eat or drinke within the Church. This excommunication was taken by all, but especially by the Gentlewomen much to heart, who protested if they might not eat or drinke in the Church, they could not continue in it to heare what otherwise they were bound unto. The chiefe of them knowing what great friendship there was between the Bishop and the Prior, and my selfe, came to the Prior and mee desiring us to use all meanes wee could with the Bishop for the revoking that his excommunication so heavily laid upon them, and threatning their soules with damning judgement for the violation of it. The good Prior and my selfe laboured all we could, alleadging the custome of the Countrey, the weakenesse of the sex whom it most concerned, and also the weaknesse of their stomackes, the contempt that might from them ensue unto his person, and many inconveniences which might follow to the breeding of an uproar in the church and in the City, whereof we had some probable conjecture from what already we had heard from some. But none of these reasons would move the Bishop; to which he answered that he preferred the honour of God, and of his house before his owne life. The women seeing him so hard to be in∣treated, began to stomacke him the more and to sleight him with scornefull and re∣proachfull words; others sleighted his excommunication, drinking in iniquity in the Church, as the fish doth water, which caused one day such an uproare in the Ca∣thedrall, that many swords were drawne against the Preists and Prebends, who at∣tempted to take away from the maids the cups of Chocolatte, which they brought unto their mistresses; who at last seeing that neither faire nor soule meanes would pre∣vaile with the Bishop, resolved to forsake the Cathedrall, where the Bishops own and his Prebends eies must needs be watching over them; and so from that time most of the City betooke themselves to the Cloister Churches, where by the Nuns and Friers they were not troubled nor resisted, though fairely counselled to obey the command of the Bishop; whose name now they could not brooke, and to whose Prebends they denied now all such reliefe and stipend for Masses which formerly they had used to be∣stow upon them, conferring them all upon the Fryers who grew rich by the poor im∣poverished Cathedrall. This lasted not long, but the Bishop began to stomacke the Fryers, and to set up another excommunication, binding all the City to resort unto their owne Cathedrall Church; which the women would not obey, but kept their houses for a whole month; in which time the Bishop fell dangerously sick, and desired to retire himselfe to the Cloister of the Dominicans, for the great confidence he had in the Prior that he would take care of him in his sickenesse. Physitians were sent for far and neere, who all with a joynt opinion agreed that the Bishop was poisoned; and he himself doubted not of it at his death, praying unto God to forgive those that had been the cause of it, and to accept of that sacrifice of his life, which he was willing to of∣fer for the zeale of Gods house and honour. He lay not above a week in the Cloister, and as soone as he was dead, all his body, his head and face did so swell, that the least touch upon any part of him caused the skin to break and cast out white matter, which had corrupted and overflowne all his body. A Gentlewoman with whom I was well acquainted in that City, who was noted to be somewhat too familiar with one of the Bishops Pages, was commonly censured to have prescribed such a cup of Chocolat∣te to be ministred by the Page which poysoned him who so rigorously had forbidden Chocolatte to be drunk in the Church. My self heard this Gentlewoman say of the de∣ceased Bishop, that she thought few grieved for his death, & that the women had no rea∣son to grieve for him, and that she judged, he being such an enemy to Chocolatte in the Church, that which he had drunk at home in his house had not agreed with his body. And it became afterwards a Proverbe in that Country, Beware of the Chocolatte of Chiapa; which made me so cautious, that I would not drinke afterwards of it in any house, where I had not very great satisfaction of the whole Family. The women of this City are somewhat light in their carriage, and have learned from the Devill many entising lessons and baits to draw poore soules to sinne and damnation; and if they can∣not have their wills, they wil surely work revenge either by Chocolatte or Conserves, or some faire present, which shall surely carry death along with it. The Gentlewoman that was suspected (nay was questioned for the death of the Bishop) had often used to send me boxes of Chocolatte or conserves; which I willingly received from her, judg∣ing

it to be a kind of gratuity for the paines I tooke in teaching her son Latin. She was of a very merry and pleasant disposition, which I thought might consist without sin; untill one day she sent unto mee a very faire plantin wrapped up in a hankerchief▪ buri∣ed in sweet Jazmines and roses; when I untied the handkerchief, I thought among the flowers I should find some rich token, or some peeces of eight, but finding nothing but a plantin, I wondred; and looking further upon it, I found worked upon it with a knife the fashion of a heart with two of blind Cupids arrows sticking in it, discovering unto my heart the poisoned heart and thoughts of the poisoner that sent it. I thought it a good warning to be wary and cautious of receiving more presents or Chocolatte from such hands, and so returned unto her againe her plantin with this short rhyme cut out with a knife upon the skinne fruta tan fria, amor no cria, as much as to say, fruit so cold, takes no hold. This answer and resolution of mine was soone spread over that little City, which made my Gentlewoman outragious, which presently she shewed by taking away her sonne from schoole, and in many meetings threatning to play me a Chiapaneca tricke. But I remembred the Bishops Chocolatte and so was wa•…•…y, and staid not long after in that poisoning and wicked City, which truly deserves no better rela∣tion then what I have given of the simple Dons, and the Chocolatte-confectioning Donna's.

There is yet twelve leagues from this City of Chiapa, another Chiapa which deserveth better commendations. This consisteth most of Indians, and is held to be one of the biggest Indian Townes in all America, containing at least four thousand families. This Towne hath many priviledges from the King of Spain, and is governed chiefly by In∣dians (yet with subordination unto the Spanish government of the City of Chiapa) who doe choose an Indian Governour with other inferiour officers to rule with him. This Governour may wear a rapier and dagger, and enjoyeth many other liberties which to the rest of the Indians are denied. No Towne hath so many Dons in it of In∣dian blood as this. Don Philip de Guzman was Governour of it in my time, a very rich Indian, who kept up commonly in his stable a dozen of as good Horses for publike shewes, and ostentation as the best Spaniard in the Countrey. His courage was not inferiour to any Spaniard, and for defence of some priviledges of his Town sued in the Chancery of Guatemala the proud and high minded Governour of the City of Chiapa, spending therein great sums of money till he had overcome him, whereupon he caused a feast to be made in the Towne, both by water and land, so stately, that truly in the Court of Madrid it might have been acted.

This Towne lyeth upon a great river, whereunto belong many boats and Canoas, wherein those Indians have been taught to act sea-fights, with great dexterity, and to represent the Nymphes of Parnassus, Neptune, Aeolus, and the rest of the heathenish Gods and Goddesses, so that they are a wonder of their whole nation. They will arme with their boats a siege against the Town, fighting against it with such courage til they make it yeeld, as if they had been trained up all their life to sea-fights. So likewise within the Town they are as dexterous at baiting of buls, at juego de Cannas, at Horse∣races, at arming a Campe, at all manner of Spanish dances, instruments, and mu∣sick as the best Spaniards. They will erect Towers and Castles made of wood and pain∣ted cloth, & from them fight either with the boats or one against another, with squibs, darts, and many strange fire-works, so manfully, that if in earnest they could per∣form it as well as they do it in sport and pastime, the Spaniards and Fryers might soon repent to have taught them what they have. As for acting of playes, this is a common part of their solemne pastimes; and they are so generous, that they nothing think too much to spend▪ in banquets & sweet-meats upon their Friers, and neighbouring Towns, whensoever they are minded to shew themselves in a publike feast. The Towne is very rich, & many Indians in it that trade about the Country as the Spaniards do. They have learned most trades befitting a Common-wealth, and practise and teach them within their Town. They want not any provision of fish or flesh, having for the one that great river joyning unto their Towne, and for the other many Estantia's (as they call them) or farmes abounding with cattell. In this Towne the Dominican Fryers bear all the sway, who have a rich and stately Cloister with another Church or Chappel subordi∣nate unto it. The heat here is so great, that both Fryers and Indians commonly wear a linnen towel about their necks to wipe off the constant swet from their faces, which ma∣keth the Friers sit longer at their dinner then els the would do, for that at every bit they

eate, and draught they drinke, they are faine to make a stop to wipe their dropping browes. Yet the evenings are fresh and cool, which are much made of there, and spent in the many walkes and gardins which joyne close unto the River side. Two or three leagues from the Towne, there are two Ingenio's or Farmes of Sugar, the one belong∣ing to the Cloister of the Dominicans of the City of Chiapa; the other unto the Cloi∣ster of this Towne, which containe neer two hundred Blackmores, besides many In∣dians, who are imployed in that constant worke of making Sugar for all the Coun∣try. Hereabouts are bread great store of Mules, and excellent horses for any service. The Towne of Chiapa of the Indians, and all the Townes about it want nothing but a more temperate climate and cooler aire, and Wheat, which there cannot bee sowne, yet for Spaniards and such as cannot live without it, it is brought from Chiapa of the Spaniards and from about Comitlan; yet this is not generally acknowledged a want by reason of the great plenty of Maiz which all the Townes enjoy, and which is now more used both by Spaniards and dainty toothed Fryers then bread of Wheat. Yet your poore Spaniards, and some Indians who have got the trick of trading from them doe gaine not a little in bringing to these Townes bisquets of wheaten bread, which though it be dry and hard, yet because they are novelties to the Indians; they get by changing them for other commodities, especially of Cotton wooll, which here is more abounding then in the Valley of Copanabastlau.

Upon this Country of Chiapa of the Indians bordereth the Province of Zoques, which is absolutely the richest part of Chiapa. This reacheth on the one side to Tabasco, and by the River named Grijalva sendeth commonly the Commodities which are in it with safety unto St. Iohn de Ulhua, or Vera Cruz. It trafiqueth also with the Country of Iucatan by the Haven called Puerto Real, which lyeth betweene Grijalva and Iuca∣tan. Yet these two, the River of Tabasco, alias Grijalva, and Puerto Real, though they bee commodious to this Province of Zoques, yet they are causes of daily feares unto the Spaniards, who well know the weaknesse of them, and that if a forraine Nation should manfully thrust into that Country by any of these two wayes, they might so conquer all Chiapa, and from thence passe easily unto Guatemala. But the River of Ta∣basco lying low, and being somewhat hot, and the Towns about it infested with many gnats, and the chiefest commodity there being but Cacao, have often discouraged both our English and Hollanders, who have come up some part of the River, and minding more the foresaid reasons, then what was forward to bee had, have turned back, losing a rich Country and slighting an eternall name, for few and frivolous present difficulties. In this Province of Zoques, the Towns are not very bigge, yet they bee very rich; the chief Commodities are Silk and Cochinill; whereof the latter is held the best of America, and the store of it so great that no one Province alone exceeds it. Few Indians there are who have not their Orchards planted with the trees whereon the worms breed which yeeld unto us that rich Commodity; not that the Indians themselves esteem otherwise of it, then as they see the Spaniands greedy after it, offering them mony for it, & forcing them to the preservation of it in those parts, which have proved most successeful for this kind. There is great store of silk in this Country, in so much that the Indians make it their great Commodity to imploy their wives in working Towels with all colours of silk, which the Spaniards buy, and send into Spain. It is rare to see what works those Indian women will make in silk, such as might serve for Patterns and samplers to ma∣ny School-Mistresses in England. The people of this Country are witty, and ingeni∣ous, and faire of complexion; the Country towards Tabasco is hot, but within in some places very cold. There is also plenty of Maiz, but no wheat; neither is there such plenty of Cattell as about Chiapa, but Fowles and Turkies as many as in other parts. The Province called Zeldales lyeth behind this of the Zoques, from the North Sea within the continent, running up towards Chiapa, and reacheth in some parts neer to the borders of Comitlan north-westward. South-eastward it joyns to such Indians which as yet have not been conquered by the Spaniards, who make many invasions upon the Christian Indians, and burn their Towns, and carry away their Cattell. The chief and head Town in this Province is called Ococingo, which is a Frontier against those Heathens. This Province is esteemed rich for the Spaniards, who make much of Cacao, which serveth to make their drink of Chocolatte, and here is great store of it. There is also another Com∣modity, great among the Spaniards, called Achiotte, wherewith they make their Choco∣lattee looke of the colour of a brick. Here is also plenty of Hogs and Bacon, Fowles,

Turkies, Quailes, Cattell, Sheep, Maiz, Hony, and not farre from Ococingo, in my time was setting up an Ingenio, or Farm of Sugar, which was thought would prove as well as those about Chiapa of the Indians. The Country in most parts is high and hilly; but Ococingo stands in a pleasant Valley, injoying many Brookes and streams of fresh wa∣ter, and therefore hath been thought a fit place for Sugar. Here also in this Valley the Fryers have attempted to sow Wheat, which hath proved very good. Thus Reader, I have shewed you the Country of Chiapa, which as it is compassed about on the one side by Soconuzco, and from thence almost to Guatemala, by the Province of Suchutepeques, on the other side by Tabasco, and on the other side by Zeldales with excessive plenty of Cacao and Achiotte, which are the chief drugs for the making of Chocolatte; I wil yet before I depart from Chiapa to Guatemala, say somewhat of that drinke so much used by the Spaniards, and in my judgment not to be sleighted, but rather to bee published and made known to all Nations, whose use might remedy the great abuse of wines and strong drinks which too much are esteemed amongst us here in Europe.