A relation of two several voyages made into the East Indies by Christopher Fryke and Christopher Schewitzer the whole containing an exact account of the customs, dispositions, manners, religion, &c. of the several kingdoms and dominions in those parts of the world in general : but in a more particular manner, describing those countries which are under the power and government of the Dutch / done out of the Dutch by S.L .

CHAP. VIII.

The Author, with three others, go a Hunting. They meet with Elephants, and kill one of them. All sorts of venomous Creatures come to Sittawack, to save themselves from the Water, that overflow'd all the Land about it. Their manner of Hunting. Envoys that came to bring Presents to the King of Candi, kept Prisoners by him. Two English-men kept for Slaves in Candi, make their escape, and come to Sit∣tawack; they tell a pleasant Story of a Country fellow that had used a Ruby for a Whetstone several Years. The Author and the English-men come to Columbo, where they are treated very civily. He goes to Cor∣mandel, thence to Columbo again. Execution done. The Author is made Secretary of the East-India-house. A Jew turns Christian, and Marries a Cingulaish Gen∣tlewoman. A Description of Columbo; and an Ac∣count of the Manners of that place, their Marriages, &c.

I Spent all the Month of March in Hunting, and I liv'd altogether upon what Game I used to bring home with me. Upon a certain night the Moon being at Full (knowing it would be light all night) I, with three Gentlemen more, went out into a fair Plain, about a league from Sittawack, where we design'd to have some Stags. We set our selves down at the side of a Hill, to watch the wild Beasts, that we expected would come out of a Wood to feed where we were, there being very fine Grass.

The first that appear'd were Bufflars, among which there was a Stag; they came directly to the place where one of our Company was (who was a Swede) and did not know what Creature it was. As soon as these came to smell him, they took to the top of the Hill again immediately, and made a great noise there. On the other side we heard several E∣lephants making towards us. About Mid-night, being tir'd with sitting, we got together to ask one another's Advice, what we should do, when the Elephants came. We resolv'd to fall upon them; because we concluded they kept the Game from co∣ming into the Dale, and so spoil'd our sport.

When we got into the middle of the Plain, an Elephant broke out of the Wood, and run at us immediately; We took to our Heels, and run as fast as we could to the place where we first sat down; there we took Courage again, and resolv'd to go on again, and that not one of us would run away, as we had done before: At the left hand of the Plain, we saw two great Elephants by a Tree eating the Leaves of it.

The Swede would shew the greatest Courage, and went foremost; and being within 60 paces of 'em, fir'd upon them, but they did not stir for all that: After that I went a little nearer, and shot one of of them in the Head, which made him make a most hideous noise; and then they ran off into the Wood again.

We heard on the other side of us some more of 'em, and went towards 'em: We heard where they were, but we could not see 'em; for they were feeding about a Tree that had boughs which reach'd down to the ground, amongst which they stood like so many Horses at a Manger. We came close to the very Tree, where they were, and yet could only hear 'em. I went a little on one side of the Tree, and then discover'd a terrible huge Elephant,

with four small ones besides, about ten paces from me. My Gun was cock'd, and I, having overcome that little Pannick fear that seiz'd me at first, gave fire upon the biggest, and hit him just on the head, which made him roar lustily. Then I retir'd, and another stept in, who fir'd likewise, and then ano∣ther; so we kept firing three times a piece round. The Elephants gave ground, but not above 20 or 30 paces, and set up a hideous roaring.

We did not think it safe to pursue any more Game; So we went back to Sittawack. The next morning the neighbouring Cingulayans came down to the Valley, to see what was done there, having heard much shooting in the night; They found an Elephant, with two very sine teeth, lye dead. They gave an account of it to our chief Officer, who sent immediately for me, and ask'd if we had shot the Elephant: I told him it was probable, because we had been pursued in the night by some of 'em, which oblig'd us to fire upon 'em. This was the only reason that could serve to excuse us; for it is strictly forbidden to shoot any Elephants, unless a Man is in danger of his Life. Our Officer sent word of it to the Governor of Columbo, and sent withal the Elephant's two Teeth. The Flesh of this kind of Animals is good for nothing; the Fat is used for Lamps, the rest was left in the place.

In April it rain'd so violently, that we were al∣most overwhelm'd with Water. The Amboineses, who, as I told you before, liv'd in the Town, were forc'd to be taken into the Fort, with their Wives and Children; Men, and Beasts, both tame and wild, were drove up into the Mountains: And our Fort was very full of Serpents, Scorpions, and o∣ther venomous Creatures. We did what we could to keep them out, by making Fires at all the Gates and Posts where the Sentinels stood.

The Rains abated in May, and likewise the Floods; and that Month I saw nothing remarkable, but that the Elephants shew'd themselves in vast Numbers about our Fort. Most nights of this Month I went a Hunting with Cingulayan Sports-men, and with them I had always good Sport; and brought some∣times as much home as would serve the whole Gar∣rison. An Indian used to go foremost, with a lighted Torch upon his Head, and a Stick in his Hand, to which some Shells are tyed loose; and he goes along shaking of 'em, making a continual rat'ling. As soon as any Bufflers, Harts, or Hares, &c. hear this, and see the Fire, they come towards it, and within shot of the fellow; then he that goes behind him shoots as many as he pleases of 'em. But the fellows sometimes are in danger of being run at by an Elephant, who now and then pursues them, and puts 'em to it very hard, not∣withstanding their Fire, and the ratt'ling of their Shells.

The 1st of July, There came an Envoy from Co∣lumbo to Sittawack, call'd Mierop: He had with him an Ambassador from the King of Persia. He rode in a very fine curious Chariot, made after the Persian manner, drawn by two Oxen, cover'd with fine white Linnen. His Presents for the King of Candi were two white Lions, three Tygers, twelve Musk-Cats, all carry'd in very neat Cages, lin'd with green Velvet. Two black Persian Horses, co∣ver'd likewise with green Velvet; and twenty Fal∣cons, carry'd by so many black Malabarian Slaves. The Letter was carry'd by the Dutch Ambassador in a Silver Cup, and over him was a Canopy carry'd by 4 Cingulayan Noblemen bare-headed.

The 2d, We guarded these Presents as far as a place, call'd The Devil's Tree, by Ruenel; and ha∣ving given our Ambassadors three Vollies, we left them. They went forwards with their Presents

to Buare-Birge, which is in the King of Candi's Do∣minion. As soon as the King heard of their co∣ming thither, he gave orders to have them all se∣cured, and provided Necessaries for the Men, and the Beasts they brought along with them; and to keep them in close custody till further orders. And it is a question whether or no they will ever be set at liberty: For it is above 22 years since one John Baptista was sent thither as an Envoy from the Dutch, and another Ambassador sent from the French Vice∣roy of Trinconomala, who are there still, kept in Prison and in Fetters, without any hopes of being ever free, as long as this King lives.

Besides this Consinement, they live very hard; for tho' the King allows them necessaries (and those it may be not in great plenty neither) the King's Officers convert the half of them to their own Use and Profit.

On this same day, Two gray Old Men came to us in the Fort of Sittawack, dress'd after the Cingu∣layan manner. They told us that they came about 20 years since to Calpintin with an English Ship, and that they, with ten other Seamen, being sent on shore to this Island to fetch Provisions, Water, and Wood, they were trapann'd by some Candians, who sent them to Candi, where they had been kept Prisoners all that while every one of 'em. That the other ten were dead, and they two had ventur'd their Lives to make their escape, and had left their Black Wives behind them. They had been eight days a coming (or rather eight nights, that being the only time they could travel in, being forc'd to lye hid all day in the Woods). They had heard that day the shooting from our Fort, and judged it, by that, to be a place in the Hands of the Chri∣stians; and were over-joy'd to find themselves deli∣ver'd out of the power of their cruel Master, the King of Candi.

One of them was a Gunner, the other a Drum∣mer, and both spoke besides, English, very good Cingulaian and Portuguese: The Gunner told us a great many passages of his Life, during their Sla∣very; and amongst other Relations, described to us the Richness of the King of Candi's Warlike in∣struments: His Carriages are all over-laid with Gold and Silver, and inlaid with Rubies and Saphyrs. He told us that he had seen once a great Ruby that a Cingulaian Peasant had found, and carried home to use for a Whet-stone, and had whetted his Knives and Hatchets with it for some Years. A certain Field Officer of the King of Candi happening to go to that Contryman's House, saw it, and carried it to the King, who sent immediatly for the Country Fellow, and askt him what he would have for his Whetstone: The poor fellow told the King that he had found it in the River of Bibliogam, and that it was at his service, and that he could get another stone to do his business as well. This innocent an∣swer satisfied the King that he did not know the value of his Jewel; for had he known it, it would have cost him his life. The King dismist him, and commanded some Land and Cattle to be given him, ordering him for the time to come to let such stones lie whenever he found 'em.

The 3d Instant these two poor English Men were sent in a Boat to Columbo; I went along with them to introduce them to the Governor, who received us with extraordinary courtesie, and after a great many questions to satisfie his curiosity, sent for Cloaths, which he freely presented them with, and then took them to his Table, and very civilly desi∣red them to stay in his House till some opportunity offer'd it self to send them to Batavia, where they might easily get an English Ship to carry them to Bantam.

The 4th I went back with two Soldiers to Sit∣tawack, where I continued till

The 12th; when we were all relieved by a fresh Company from Columbo.

The 15th we march'd from Sittawack in the Morning, and came at Night to Columbo. I pack'd up amongst my things, two or three hundred of Bulat Leaves, which two Cingulayans carried after me. These Leaves I have already told you are chew'd commonly by the Inhabitants; so I brought them to make a present of to my Landlady. I can't tell whether Heaven design'd me an occasion of making my Fortune or no, but however it was, I refus'd laying hold on it; and how it was I will re∣late in short. My Landlady treated me very civilly from the first time of my coming to her House, where I paid her 3 Rixdollers by the Month, and had a very good Table, and what Suri I pleas'd at Meals: Her entertainment grew in time kinder and kinder; and then it broke out into some prelimi∣nary interrogations, why I would not settle there? Why I would not Marry? and many things of that kind; at last it came to a close application, and to a plain offer of her self, if I would marry. When I considered her on one side, as to her Fortune, I must confess she did not altogether displease me. Her first Husband was a substantial free Merchant at Columbo, call'd John Christantz; he was owner of of a Ship, with which he had often been at Bengal at the River Ganges, and drove there a considerable Trade, but going there again in the year 1678, was cast away with a Hurrican, and he and his ship lost. What she lost by this accident I do not know, but she was left worth near thirty thousand Ducats, and twenty Slaves from Bengal which she used very inhumanly: But the Figure she made never would permit me to entertain a thought of marrying her, but that other People may judge

whether I was too nice, or but reasonably so, I will give some description of her: I did not dislike her merely for her being Black, but methoughts her Ears, though they were richly set out with Gold, look'd but hideously, being longer than my Hand: Her Hair, that would reach down to her Heels, she would besmear every Day with Oyl made of Coco-Nuts, and then wind it up on her Head, just as we serve Horses in Holland, when they have long Tails: She wore a little short sort of a Wastcoat that hardly covered her Breasts, fastned with Gold Buttons; from the Breast down to be∣neath the Navel she was Naked. The best part of her Dress was from beneath the Navel downwards, having a Linnen Garment down to the Feet, and another-like one at top of that, something longer than the under one: She had a great Necklace round her Neck made of Gold and Ivory: She spoke no Dutch, but Portuguese and Cingulaish, which were her Father and Mother's Languages, and the Mala∣barian which is much the same. All these things together were so far from raising any Passion for her, that they were a preservative against it, so I e'en left her as I found her.

There were at this time two Sloops and a Yacht ready to set sail for the Coast of Malabar, there to hinder the Malabarians Boats in their Pepper Traf∣sick: I was sent to command them, and had my choice of Men out of all the Company: After that I pick'd them out that I liked best, I took twenty of them with my self on board the Yatch, call'd the Trinconomala, and in each of the two Sloops went 12 Men, and 7 Seamen.

The 18th. in the Evening we set sail. I had with me besides my twenty Men, a Steersman, and 15 Seamen; and I put off with our Flags and Pendants as Commadore from Columbo.

The 19th, 20th, 21st, and 22d, we saw no Land: We had the wind for us, but the stream was contrary to us.

The 23d, we espied land in the Forenoon, and in the Afternoon we came before the Town Couchin, which belong'd heretofore to the Portuguese. I went to the Commadore that lay there, and deli∣ver'd my Letter to him from the Governor of Co∣lumbo. The next Day he joyn'd us with another Sloop well Mann'd, and gave us instructions how we might best annoy the Malabarians.

The 25th we went to Sea again, and there Cruised along the Coast up to Goa, a Portuguese Town. We were in a continual Chase, and all the Boats that we met loaden with Cardamunga, and Pepper, and could not produce a Dutch Pass, we took. Their Provisions and Goods we stow'd in our Ves∣sels, and sunk theirs; but many of the Malabarian Vessels being little ones, kept in the Shallows near the Land, where we could not come, ours drawing much more Water than theirs did, and those were secure enough.

The 6th of October, we went back to Couchin, and brought thither fifty Malabarian Prisoners with us, and a great deal of Onions, Pepper, Car∣damunga, Rice, and Dry Fish. I acquainted the Commadore with what I had done, and brought with me, and he left all the Booty amongst us, ex∣cept the Pepper, which he kept to himself.

Here we stay'd till the 20th of November, and found it much better living than in Ceylon.

The 21st, we went back homewards, and arrived happily at Columbo on the 29th about three of the Clock in the Afternoon: I deliver'd to the Gover∣nor my Letters from Couchin, and every one went to his respective Post. We had but two Men dy'd in the Expedition, they were shot with two Poy∣son'd

Assagayen or Darts; and one Seaman had his Arm shot off by a Gun that burst in the firing.

The 30th, a Master Gunner call'd Henry Scholten was shot to death, he was a Lutheran, and would not hearken to any instructions or advice that our Protestant Minister offer'd him: But being come to the place of Execution, he pray'd for him∣self: Three Muskets were fired upon him, which dispatch'd him in an instant. Then his Friends took him and put him in a Coffin, and buried him. The same day two Moors of Volkendal that had been catch'd at Aripen by the Pearl-bank, were soundly whipt, all their cry was Apoi Paring, Apoi Paring in Malabarian, that is to say, Mercy Sirs, Mercy Sirs; at last they hung their Heads on one side, which made me think they were dead; but as soon as the whipping was over, they held up their Heads briskly again. The Executioner rubb'd their wounds afterwards with Pepper and Salt, and they were kept in Fetters, as belonging properly to the Company.

I was now offer'd a Post, which I thought more advantagious, and not expos'd to so much Fatigue, which was to be Overseer of the 12 Clerks belong∣to the East India Company: I accepted of it, and entred into the Office on the 1st of December. The Chief of that Office was one Walter Vander Beek. It was open from Seven till Ten in the Morning, and from Two till Six in the Afternoon, all which time there was business enough for the Twelve Clerks.

I Dieted all this while with my long-ear'd Wi∣dow, who continu'd asking me why I would not marry: I told her I would have her if she would leave off Oyling her Hair, and let her Ears be clipt into shape; at which she shook her Head, and said in a doleful manner that she would die first.

There was at this time a Jew that had liv'd a considerable time in the House of a Cingulaish No∣bleman, and had been very familiar with his Daugh∣ter, tho' not Marry'd to her: He had a grievous fit of Sickness, during which she was so faithful and serviceable to him, that he promis'd her Marriage as soon as he should be recover'd. Being got up again, she pursued him to make good his Promise; but the Jew refus'd it out of meer shame of being seen at Church with such a long-ear'd Creature; and told her that was the only reason he could give her for going back from his Word. She, to remedy that, consented to have her Ears cut into better fashion, and had it done accordingly; after which the Jew Marry'd her in Columbo on a Sunday. A little while after he fell Lame, both in his Hands and Feet, and nothing but misfortunes befell him. The cause of all this he imputed wholly to his be∣ing turn'd Christian; and look'd upon all as a just Judgment upon him for having forsaken the Jewish Religion: Bitterly Cursing the hour he had ever been Baptized. Another Jew, a Convert likewise, Marry'd at the same time a Black young Gentlewo∣man of Malabar, very Rich; but this Marriage proved more happy than the other.

Being occasionally come to treat of Marriages, I will give you some Account how they are perform'd at Columbo.

The Parties being agreed before-hand, the Bride∣groom comes, with two or three of his Friends, to the Bride's House, where she is dress'd in fine white Linnen and fine Flowers, to receive him. Her Fa∣ther and Mother, if she has any, are to be present there; and so are any two Persons that were at her Baptism. The Certificate being produc'd, the Bride and Bridegroom give one another a Ring; after this they make merry. The next Sunday af∣ter it, the Names are publish'd three times in the

Church; and the Tuesday after that, they are Mar∣ry'd. When they go to Church, they have several Balliators, or Leapers, that go before them Dan∣cing all the way. Then goes the Bride between two Women, with a fine Umbrella over her Head; then the Bridegroom between two of his Friends. The Ceremony being ended; when the Bride is come home again, every one in the Room Sprinkles her with Rose-water, and throws an handful of Flowers upon her. Then they have a Wedding-Dinner, which is always given by the Maid's Fa∣ther and Mother at their House: When the new Couple are got to Bed, they fall a-beating Drums, Tamelins, and other Instruments, for about an hour; the Balliators all the while Dancing, and making a great noise. The next day they go about a mile or two out of Town, where they have a Dinner at some Publick-House, which is generally given by the two Bride-men.

Any European in Ceylon may marry any Woman he pleases: But if he is in the Dutch Service, the Marriage is not permitted; unless a Testimonial is given of the Woman's being Christen'd, under the Minister's Hand and Seal.

These Women pretend to have a much greater Inclination and Love for a white Man, than for their own Country-men: So that, if there is any Credit to be given to 'em, one might be pretty secure of keeping one's Wife to himself, at least, from a black Rival. But I have known many Instances to the contrary, of Women that have been brought to Bed with black Children, which never happens if a Woman keeps constantly to an European; and several complaints I have known made of this kind to the Ministers. Many indeed choose rather to to take no notice of it, than to expose themselves by making their complaint; but if any brought it to an Examination, and it was either found out or con∣fess'd;

both she and the Adulterer were severely Whipp'd, and made Slaves of, together with the Brats. There liv'd a Shoe-maker in the Old City of Columbo, that had marry'd a Mastize, (so they call a Woman that hath had a white Father and a black Mother,) her Father and Mother were very honest People, and my great acquaintance; (he was a Brewer of Columbo, and one of the Burghers): The young Couple had not been marry'd above six or seven Months, when a Malabarian, one of the Washers, came as it is usual at Columbo for them to go twice a-week to fetch People's foul Linnen) to this Man's House, and sinding the Woman alone at Home, courted her to comply in his rustical man∣ner, promising to Wash her Linnen for nothing. The Woman pretended to like the bargain well enough, but told him she could not for the present do it with safety, but the next opportunity she would grant him his desire. The fellow went home very well satisfy'd with the hopes of his future Enjoy∣ment. But when the Shoe-maker came home, his Wife very faithfully tells him all that had passed between them: The Man was not a little glad to find his Wife so virtuous, and desir'd her to admit him in∣to the Room, where he design'd to lay wait for him. At the time appointed the Malabarian came, and the Woman, according to promise, gave the signal; upon which the Shoemaker and a Neigh∣bour of his came out, each of 'em having a good Club, and fell upon the poor Malabarian, and dis∣abl'd him from any such attempts for the future. A short time after this the young Woman dy'd, sup∣posed to have been poison'd by some Blacks, for being so faithful to a White.

Their marrying with the Whites is (I am apt to think) generally more out of Policy, and to have the advantage of living more secure and free among

the Europeans, who have all the power in their hands, than out of any true love for 'em.

The Women live very lazy Lives; they chaw Betel and smoak Tobacco, all day long; they are very neat, and wash themselves all over every day. The Man hath all the Care of the House upon him; and they have generally two Slaves, the one to go to Market, the other to dress the Victuals.

I will, now I am treating of Columbo, give you some Description of that City.

I have already told you how it was built by the Portuguese; but when the Dutch East-India Com∣pany took possession of it, they Demolish'd many parts, and Re-built others after the Dutch man∣ner; and to this day they are building at the Ca∣stle and City. The Castle hath on the West-side, the Sea; on the North-East, the City; on the South-East, a sweet River: It is fortify'd with several Bulwarks, each of which hath 20 or 30 Guns; a very good Counterscarp; and there are so many Rocks on the Sea-side, that no Ships can come near it.

There is a broad Channel runs all round it, where one may see every day Crocodiles in abundance: It hath three Gates, one to the South-West, call'd Port de Gala; about a Musquet-shot off, on the side that goes to Galture, the Land about it is richly fill'd with Orchards and Gardens, full of fine Fruit-trees, which reach a mile or two: The other Gate is call'd the Delfsche Port, from the Bastion which is just by it, that bears that Name. This Gate is toward the City, and the way to it hath the Sea all along on one side, and a deep Ditch on the o∣ther, and a large Field call'd the Buffler's Plain, which they can lay all under Water when they please, by opening a Sluce. The third Gate, which is Northward, hath the Name of Water-Port; on the left side of that is the Water-Pass, guarded by

many Cannon, that command all the Ships that lye in the Road. Within the Castle are many pretty Walks of Nut-trees, set in an uniform Order, but they bear no Fruit, only red and white Flowers: The Streets are pleasant walks themselves; having Trees on both sides, and before the Houses. The Castle contains about 40 Acres of Land. The Go∣vernor, all the Merchants, Officers, and Soldiers, have their Dwelling within it; and without the Walls, between them and the Sea, are the Huts, where near four thousand Slaves, belonging to the Company, lye at night. They are of different Na∣tions, and are constantly kept at work: Their Huts are very little, made up with nothing but Straw and Leaves. There are Dutch-men to look over 'em, who are call'd Mucadons; each of these have 70, 80, 90, or 100 to oversee, and must give an account of 'em.

There is likewise a very large place for Ammu∣nition, two strong Cellars for Gun-powder, and Magazines for the Merchants, and a Church; and behind that, a very fine Stable, commonly full of Persian Horses. There is also a Powder Wind-mill by Port de Gala, and by the Water-Pass, a Wind-mill to saw Boards, &c. The City of Columbo is much larger than the Castle, by reason of the large Trees and Gardens that are in it; and it is very well fortify'd with five Bulwarks, call'd, Victoria, Con∣stantia, Concordia, Haerlem, and Euckhuysen. It hath on the North the Road where the Ships lye; on the other side the River that is full of Crocodiles. It hath three Gates, the one (as I said just now) is call'd the Delfsche-Port, the second is not far from that, and goes toward the Sea; the third is the Port-Victoria, or Negumbo.

The Inhabitants are a mixture of Officers, Soldiers, Burghers, and Tradesmen, Blacks and Whites, and others: For which reason the Hol∣landers

are oblig'd to keep a careful watch every night. The Streets are always very clean, tho' it Rain never so much. There is an Hospital for the Dutch, very well provided with able Surgeons, and they with very good Medicines, and Slaves allow'd them. The chief Doctor, that had the Care of it in my time, was in very ill Repute for his ill Ma∣nagement of those that came under his Hands, and for several ill Actions he was accus'd of; and, a∣mongst others, of having a pretty while been too familiar with a Slave of his, and then Killing of her, and Burying her in his Garden.

Not far from that is an Hospital for Dutch Or∣phans: The Boys are taught to Read and Write; after that they are made either Drummers or Sol∣diers: The Girls, besides Reading and Writing, are taught to Sew, or any other Employment pro∣per to their Sex; and there they are kept to work till some-body comes to marry 'em, which com∣monly happens by that time they are 12 or 13 years of Age.

The Dutch Church-yard is in the middle of the City, enclos'd with a Wall, on which a Malabarian School stands: On the out-side of the Church-yard, there is Sold, all the Week long, Silks, Stuffs, and Linnen, by the Moors and Persians; and all sorts of Fruits, dry'd Fish, Onions, Sugar and Rice, by the Malabarians, Maldivians, and Cingulayans, and other Inhabitants of Columbo.