Bucaniers of America the second volume : containing the dangerous voyage and bold attempts of Captain Bartholomew Sharp, and others, performed upon the coasts of the South Sea, for the space of two years, &c. : from the original journal of the said voyage / written by ... Basil Ringrose, Gent., who was all along present at those transactions.

CHAP. XIII. A continuation of their long and tedious Voyage to Arica, with a description of the Coasts and Sailings thereunto. Great hardship they endu∣red for want of Water and other Provisions. They are descryed at Arica, and dare not land there; the Country being all in Arms before them. They retire from thence, and go unto Puerto de Hilo, close by Arica. Here they land, take the Town with little or no loss on their side, refresh themselves with Provisions; but in the end are cheated by the Spaniards, and forced shamefully to retreat from thence.

ON September the Ninth we continued still to make a S. W. by S. way, as we had done the day before. By a clear and exact observation taken the same day, we found now Lat. 8. d. 12 S. All the twenty four hours last past afforded us but little wind, so that we advanced but as lit∣tle on our Voyage, and were forced to tack about every four or five hours.

The next day by another observation taken, we found then Lat. 9 d. 00. Now the weather was much warmer than before; and with this warmth we had small and mi∣sty rains that frequently fell. That evening a strong breeze came up at S. E. by E.

The night following likewise we had a very great dew that fell, and a fresh wind continued to blow. At this time we were all hard at work to make small sails of the Osenbrigs we had taken in the last Prize, as being much

more convenient for its lightness. The next morning be∣ing Saturday, September the 11th, we lay by to mend our rigging. These last twenty four hours we had made a S. by W. way. And now we had an observation that gave us Lat. 10. D. 9. S. I supposed this day that we were West from Cosmey about the distance of eighty nine leagues and an half.

September the 12th. This day we reckoned a S. S. W. way; and that we had made thirty four leagues and three quarters or thereabouts. Also that all our Westing from Pa••••a was eighty four leagues. We supposed our selves now to be in Lat. 11. D. ••0. S. But the weather being ha∣sey, no observation could be made.

September the 13th, yesterday in the Afternoon we had a great Eclipse of the Sun, which lasted from one of the clock till three after dinner. From this Eclipse I then took the true judgment of our longitude from the Canary I∣slands, and found my self to be 285 D. 35. in Lat. 11 D. 45 S. The wind was now so fresh, that we took in our Top sails; making a great way under our Courses and Sprit-sail.

September the 14th we had a cloudy morning, which continued so all the first part thereof. About eight it clea∣red up, and then we set our fore-top-sail; and, about noon, our main-top-sail likewise. This was observable, that all this great wind precedent did not make any thing of a great Sea. We reckoned this day that we had run by a S. W. by W. way, twenty six Leagues, and two thirds.

The next day, in like manner, we had close weather, such as the former morning. Our reckoning was Twenty four Leagues and two thirds, by a S. W. by W. way. But, by observation made, I found my self to be 23 D. South∣ward of my reckoning, as being in the Lat. of 15 D. 17 South.

On the 16th, we had but small and variable winds. For the twenty four hours last past we reckoned twenty

four leagues and two thirds, by a S. W. by S. way. By ob∣servation we had Lat. 16. D. 41. That evening we had a gale at E. S. E. which forced us to hand our top-sails.

The 17th likewise, we had many gusts of wind at seve∣ral times, forcing us to hand our top-sails often. But in the forenoon, we set them with a fresh gale at E. S. E. My reckoning this day was thirty one leagues by a S.S. W. way. All day long we stood by our top-sails.

On the 18th, we made a S. by W. way. We reckoned our selves to be in Lat. 19. D. 33. S. The weather was hasey; and the wind began to dye this day by degrees.

The next day, being the 19th, we had very small wind. I reckoned thirteen leagues and an half, by a S. W. by S. way; and our whole Westing from Paita to be 164 leagues in Lat. 20. D. 06. S. All the afternoon we had a calm, with drizling rain.

Monday, September the 20th. Last night we saw the Magallan Clouds, which are so famous among the Mariners of these Southern Seas. The least of these clouds was a∣bout the bigness of a mans hat. After this sight, the morn∣ing was very clear. We had run at noon at E. S. E thir∣teen leagues and an half: and, by an observation then made, we found Lat. 20. D. 15. S. This day the wind be∣gan to freshen at W. by S. Yet notwithstanding we had a very smooth Sea.

But on the next morning, the wind came about to S.W. and yet slacken by degrees. At four this morning it came to S. by E. And at ten the same day, to S. E. by S. We had this day a clear observation, and by it Lat. 20. D. 25. S. We stood now E by N. with the wind at S. E.

September the 22d. This morning the wind was at E. S. E. By a clear observation we found Lat 19. D. 30 S. Likewise on a N. E. by E. way,—and two leagues and two thirds.

September the 23d we had a fresh wind, and a high 〈◊〉〈◊〉. This morning early the wind was at E. and about 〈◊〉〈◊〉 E. N. E. From a clear observation we found our latitude

to be 20 D. 35 S. The way we made was S. by W. That morning we hapned to split our Sprit-sail.

Next morning the wind was variable and inconstant, and the weather but hasey. We reckoned a S. by E. way: this day we bent a new main-top-sail; the old one serving for a fore-top-sail. In the afternoon we had but little wind, whereupon we lowered our top-sails; having, in like man∣ner, a very smooth sea.

The following day likewise brought us calm and warm weather; which occasioned us to set up our shrouds both fore and aft. An observation taken this day afforded us Lat. 21. D. 57. That evening we bent a sprit-sail.

On September the 26th, an observation gave us Lat. 22. D. 05. S. At noon we had a breez at N. N. E. our course being E. S. E. In the afternoon we set up a larboard top-sail studden-sail. In the evening the wind came about at North pretty fresh.

The next day we had a smooth sea, and took in four studden-sails. For yesterday in the afternoon we had put out, besides that above-mentioned, another studden-sail, and two main studden-sails more. This day we had by observation 22 D. 45 S. having made by an E. S. E. way, thirty five leagues and an half. Our whole Merid. differ. sixty eight leagues and an half.

September the 28th, all the forenoon we had very little wind, and yet withal a great Southern sea. By observati∣on we had Lat. 22 D. 40 S.

September the 29th. All the night past we had much wind, with three or four fierce showres of rain. This was the first that we could call rain, ever since that we left Cape Francisco above-mentioned. This day our allowance was shortned, and reduced unto three pints and a half of water, and one cake of boyled bread to each man for a day. An observation this day gave us Lat. 21 D. 59 S. by a N. E. by E. way.

On September the 30th we had a cloudy day, and the wind very variable, the morning being fresh. Our way

was N. E. half N. wherein we made eighteen leagues.

October the First. All the night past and this day we had a cloudy sky, and not much wind. We made a N. E. by E. way, and by it seventeen leagues and two miles. This day we began at two pints and a half of water for a day.

The Second, we made a E.N. E. way, and by it twenty six leagues, more or less. Our observation this day gave us Lat. 20 D. 29 S. I reckoned now that we were ten leagues and an half to East of our Meridian, the Port of Paita; so that henceforward our departure was Eastward. The wind was this day at S. E. by S.

On the Third we had both a cloudy morning, a high sea, and drizling weather. An observation which we had this day, gave us Lat. 19 D. 45 S. In the afternoon the wind blew so fresh, as that we were forced to hand our top-sails and sprit-sail.

The 4th likewise we had a high sea and a cold wind. At break of day we set our top-sails. An observation made afforded us Lat. 19 D. 8 S. Here we supposed our selves fifty nine leagues D. M.

The 5th we had still a great sea, and sharp and cold winds, forcing us to our low sails. By a N. E. by E way, we reckoned this day twenty six leagues and an half.

But on the 6th we had great gusts of wind. Insomuch, that this morning our ring-bolts gave way which held our Main-stay, and had like to have brought our Main-mast by the board. Hereupon we ran three or four glasses West before the wind. By an observation we found Lat. 19 D. 4 S.

On the 7th of October the wind was something fallen. We had both a cloudy day and variable winds.

The 8th of the said Month we had again a smooth sea, and small whistling winds. This morning we saw a huge shoal of fish, two or three Water-snakes, and several Seals.

On the next day we had in like manner a very smooth sea, and withal a cloudy day. Our course was East.

October the Tenth, we had likewise a cloudy day, with small and variable winds▪ and what is consequent unto these, a smooth Sea. Our way was S. by E. This day we espied sloating upon the Sea, several Tufts of Sea-grass, which gave us good hopes that we were not far from shoar. In the afternoon we had a N. E. by E. wind that sprang up▪ the night was very cold and cloudy.

On the eleventh we had a fresh wind at S. E. and E. S.E. together with a cloudy day; such as we had experimented for several days before. We reckoned this day thirty two Leagues by a N. E. by E. way. Here our Pilot told us, that the sky is always hasey nigh the shoar upon these Coasts where we now were.

On October the 12th we had a clear day, and a North-East way.

The 13th we had but little wind. This day we saw a Whale, which we took for an infallible token that we were not far distant from Land, which now we hoped to see in a few days. We made an E.S.E. way, and by it we recko∣ned nineteen Leagues. All the evening was very calm.

Thursday October the 14th we had both a calm, and close day until the afternoon. Then the weather became very hot and clear. This day we saw several land-Fowls, being but small Birds. Concerning which our Pilot said, that they use to appear about one or two days sail from the Land. Our reckoning was eleven Leagues by an E.S.E. way. In the evening of this day we thought that we had seen Land; but it proved to be nothing else than a foggy bank.

October the 15th, both the night past, and this day, was very clear. We made an observation this day, which gave us Lat. 18 d. 00 South.

The 16th, last night and this day were contrary to the former, both cloudy. Our way was N.E. by E. whereof we reckoned thirteen Leagues.

Sunday October the 17th the wind blew very fresh, our course being E. N. E. About five that morning we saw

Land; but the weather was so hasey, that at first we could scarce perceive whether it was Land or not. It was distant from us about eight Leagues, and appeared as a high and round hill, being in form like unto a Sugar-loaf. We saw Land afterwards all along to the S. E. by E. from it. In the evening, we being then within five Leagues of the shoar, the Land appeared very high and steep.

October the 18th, all the night last past we stood off to sea with a fresh wind. This morning we could just see Land at N. N. E. We reckoned a S. E. by E. way; and by observation we found Lat. 17 d. 17 South.

Tuesday October the 19th, we had very cloudy weather, finding what our Pilot had told us to be very true, con∣cerning the haseyness of this shoar. We saw all along as we went very high Land, covered with Clouds; insomuch, that we could not see its top.

On Wednesday the next day, we had likewise cloudy weather, and for the most part calm. The same weather being very cloudy, as before, continued in like manner on Thursday.

Friday October 22. this morning we saw the Land plain before us. Our Pilot being asked what Land that was, an∣swered, it was the Point of Hilo. At N.N.E. and about six or seven Leagues distance it appeared thus unto us.

[illustration]

Punta de HILO. Lat. 18. d. 4. S.

There is every morning and evening a brightness over the Point, which lasteth for two or three hours, being caused by the reflection of the Sun on the barren land, as

it is supposed. This day we had but little wind; and the huge want of water we were now under, occasioned much disturbance among our men. As for my part, I must ac∣knowledge I could not sleep all night long through the greatness of my drougth. We could willingly have lan∣ded here to seek for water; but the fear of being disco∣vered and making our selves known, hindred us from so do∣ing. Thus we unanimously resolved to endure our thirst for a little longer space of time. Hereabouts is a small Current that runneth under the shoar. This morning we had but little wind at South, our course being E S. E. The Point at the distance of five leagues N. E. looketh on the following side, thus:

[illustration]

Punta de HILO.

Our wind continued to blow not above six hours each day. We reckoned the difference of our Meridian to be this day one hundred and eighty leagues. Very great was our affliction now for want of water; we having but half a pint a day to our allowance.

October the 23d. This day we were forced to spare one measure of water, thereby to make it hold out the longer; so scarce it became with us. At three this afternoon the Point looked thus:

[illustration]

Punta de HILO. Mora de SAMA.

Here the Point looketh like unto an Island. And Mora de Sama, to the Southward thereof, giveth this appearance:

[illustration]

Mora de SAMA.

About nine of the clock at night we had a land wind, and with it we stood S. E. by S. But all the night after we had but little wind.

October the 24th. All the night past we had very clou∣dy and dark weather, with mizling rain. The morning being come, it cleared up; but all the land appeared cove∣red with clouds. Yet notwithstanding in the afternoon it gave us again this appearance.

[illustration]

Mora de SAMA. Lat. 18 d. 29 S.

Under the Hill of Mora de Sama are eighteen or nine∣teen white cliffs; which appear in the form above descri∣bed. This day we resolved that One hundred and twelve men should go ashoar. And about eight this evening, we sent our Lanch and four Canoas, with fourscore men, to take three or four Fisher-men at a certain River, close by Mora de Sama, called el Rio de Juan Diaz, with intent to gain what intelligence we could how affairs stood at pre∣sent on the Coast and Country thereabouts.

Munday October the 25th. Last night being about the distance of one league and an half from shoar, we sounded, and found forty five fathom water, with an hard ground at the bottom. This morning our people and Canoas that were sent to take the Fishermen, returned, not being able to find either their houses or the River. They reported withal, they had had a very fresh wind all the night long un∣der shoar, whereas we had not one breath of wind all night on board.

Tuesday October the 26th. Last night, being the night before this day, about six of the clock, we departed from the ship to go to take Arica, resolving to land about the distance of a league to windward of the Town. We were about six leagues distant from the Town when we left our ship▪ whereby we were forced to row all night, that we might reach before day the place of our landing. Towards morning, the Canoa••s l••••t the Lanch, which they had had all

night in a Tow, and wherein I was; and made all the speed they possibly could for the shoar, with design to land be∣fore the Lanch could arrive. But being come nigh the place where we designed to land, they found, to our great sorrow and vexation, that we were descryed; and that all along the shoar, and through the Country, they had certain news of our arrival. Yet notwithstanding our discovery, we would have landed, if we could by any means have found a place to do it in. But the sea ran so high, and with such a force against the rocks, that our boats must needs have been staved each in one thousand pieces, and we in great danger of wetting our arms, if we should adventure to go on shoar. The Bay all round was possessed by several parties of horse; and likewise the tops of the hills, which seemed to be gathered there by a general alarm through the whole Country, and that they waited onely for our landing, with design to make a strong opposition against us. They fired a gun at us, but we made them no answer, but rather re∣turned to our ship, giving over this enterprize until a fairer opportunity. The hill of Arica is very white, being occa∣sioned by the dung of multitudes of Fowls that nest them∣selves in the hollow thereof. To Leeward of the said Hill lyeth a small Island, at the distance of a mile, more or less, from the shoar. About half a league from that Island, we could perceive six ships to ride at anchor: four of which had their Yards taken down from their Masts; but the o∣ther two seemed to be ready for sail. We asked our Pilot concerning these ships, and he told us that one of them was mounted with six guns, and the other with onely four. Being disappointed of our expectations at Arica, we now resolved to bear away from thence to the Village of Hilo, there to take in Water and other Provisions; as also to learn what intelligence we could obtain. All that night we lay under a calm.

On October the 27th in the morning, we found our selves to be about a league to windward of Mora de Sama. Yet notwithstanding the weather was quite calm, and we

onely drived with the current at Leeward. The land be∣tween Hilo and Mora de Sama formeth two several Bays, and the Coast runneth along N.W. and S.E. as may appear by the following demonstration. Over the land we could see from our ship, as we drove the coming or rising of a very high land, at a great distance far up in the Country.

October the 28th. The night before this day, we sent away our four Canoas with fifty men in them, to seize and plunder the Town of Hilo. All the day was very calm, as the day before.

The next morning about break of day, we had a fair breeze sprang up, with which we lay right in with the Port. About one in the afternoon we anchored, and the Port lyeth thus, as is here described.

[illustration]

Port of HILO.

We cast anchor at the distance of two miles from the Village: and then we perceived two flags, which our men had put out, having taken the Town, and set up our Eng∣lish Colours. The Spaniards were retreated unto the hills, and there had done the same. Being come to an anchor, our Commander Captain Sharp sent a Canoa on board of us, and ordered that all the men our ship could spare, should come ashoar. Withal they told us, that those of our par∣ty that landed the morning before, were met by some horsemen on the shoar, who onely exchanged some few volly's of shot with our men, but were soon put to slight. That hereupon our forces had marched directly to the Town, where the Spaniards expecting we would have lan∣ded at first, made a breast-work, thirty paces long, of clay

and banks of sand. Here, in a small skirmish, we hapned to kill an Indian, who told us before he dy'd, that they had received news of our coming, nine days ago, from Li∣ma, and but one day before from Arica. Having taken the Town, we found therein great quantity of Pitch, Tar, Oyl, Wine and Flower, with several other sorts of provisi∣ons. We endeavoured to keep as good a watch as the Spa∣niards did on the hills, fearing lest they should suddainly make any attempt to destroy us.

On the next day, being October the 30th, we chose out threescore men of them who were the fittest to march, a∣mong the rest; and ordered them to go up and search the valley adjoyning and belonging to the Town. We found the said valley to be very pleasant, being all over set with Fig-trees, Olive-trees, Orange, Lemmon, and Lime-trees, with many other fruits agreeable to the Palat. About four miles up within the valley, we came to a great Sugar-work, or Ingenio de azucar, as it is called by the Spaniards, where we found great store of Sugar, Oyl, and Molossus. But most of the Sugar, the owners had hidden from us in the cane it self. As we marched up the vally, the Spaniards mar∣ched along the hills, and observed our motion. From the tops of the hills they often tumbled down great stones up∣on us, but with great care we endeavoured to escape those dangers, and but the report of one Gun would suddainly cause them all to hide their heads. From this house, I mean the Sugar-work above-mentioned, Mr. Cox, my self, and one Cannis a Dutchman (who was then our Interpre∣ter) went unto the Spaniards with a flag of Truce. They met us very civilly, and promised to give us fourscore Beeves for the Ransom of the Sugar-work, and upon con∣dition that it should not be spoilt nor demolished. With them we agreed, that they should be delivered unto us at the Port, the next day at noon. Hereupon Captain Sharp in the evening sent down unto the Port twenty men, with strict orders that our forces there should offer no violence in the least unto those that brought down the Beeves.

Sunday, October the 31st. This day being employed in casting up some accounts belonging to our Navigation, I reckoned that Hilo was to the Eastward of Paita, one hun∣dred eighty and seven leagues. This morning the Cap∣tain of the Spaniards came unto our Commander Captain Sharp, with a flag of Truce; and told him, that sixteen Beeves were already sent down unto the Port, and that the rest should certainly be there the next morning. Here∣upon we were ordered to prepare our selves to retreat, and march back unto the Port, and there embark our selves on board our ship. My advice was to the contrary, that we should rather leave twenty men behind to keep the house of the Sugar-work, and that others should possess them∣selves of the Hills, thereby to clear them of the Spaniards and their look out. But my counsel not being regarded, each man took away what burthen of Sugar he pleased, and thus we returned unto our vessel. Being come there, we found no Beeves had been brought down at all, which oc∣casioned us much to suspect some double dealing would in the latter end be found in this case.

The next morning being November the first, our Cap∣tain went unto the top of the Hills afore-mentioned, and spoke with the Spaniards themselves, concerning the per∣formance of their agreement. The Spaniards made an∣swer, that the Cattle would certainly come down this night. But in case it did not, that the Master or Owner of the Sugar-work was now returned from Potosi, and we might go up and treat with him, and make, if we pleased, a new bargain for the preservation of his House and Goods; whose interest it was, more than theirs, to save it from being demolished. With this answer our men returned unto us, and we concluded to expect until the next day for the delivery of the Beeves.

On the following day about eight in the morning, there came in unto us a Flag of Truce from the enemy, telling us, that the winds were so high, that they could not drive the Cattle, otherwise they had been delivered before now.

But withal, that by noon we should in no manner ••ail to have them brought unto us. Noon being come, and no Cattle appearing, we now having filled our water, and finished other concerns, resolved to be revenged on the Enemy, and do them what mischief we could; at least, by setting fire on the Sugar-work. Hereupon, threescore men of us marched up the valley, and burnt both the House, the Canes, and the Mill belonging to the Ingenio. We broke likewise the Coppers, Coggs, and multitudes of great Jars of Oyl that we found in the house. This being done, we brought away more Sugar, and returned unto the Port over the Hills or Mountains; the which we sound to be very pleasant, smooth, and level after once we had as∣cended them. It fell out very fortunately unto us that we returned back this way we did, for otherwise our men at the Sea-side had inevitably been cut off and torn in pieces by the enemy, they being at that time dispersed and strag∣ling up and down by two and three in a Party. For from the Hills we espied coming from the Northward of the Bay, above three hundred horsemen, all riding at full speed towards our men, who had not as yet descryed them, and little thought of any such danger from the enemy so nigh at hand. Being alarumed with this sight, we threw down what Sugar we had, and ran incontinently to meet them▪ thereby to give our other men time to rally, and put them∣selves into a posture of defence. We being in good rank and order, fairly proffered them Battle upon the Bay; but as we advanced to meet them, they retired and rid towards the Mountains to surround us, and take the Rocks from us if possibly they could. Hereupon, perceiving their in∣tentions, we returned back and possest our selves of the said Rocks, and also the lower Town; as the Spaniards them∣selves did of the upper Town (at the distance of half a mile from the lower) the Hills and the Woods adjoyning there∣unto. The Horsemen being now in possession of these Quar∣ters, we could perceive, as far as we could see, more and more men resort unto them, so that their Forces encreased

hourly to considerable numbers. We fired one at another as long as we could reach, and the day would permit. But in the mean while we observed, that several of them rid unto the Watch-hill, and looked out often to the Sea-board. This gave us occasion to fear, that they had more strength and Forces coming that way, which they expected every minute. Hereupon, least we should speed worse than we had done before, we resolved to imbark silently in the dark of the night, and go off from that Coast where we had been so early descryed, and the enemy was so much prepa∣red against us. We carryed off a great Chest of Sugar, whereof we shared seven pound weight and a half each man; thirty Jars of Oyl, and great plenty of all sorts of Garden Herbs, Roots, and most excellent Fruit.

Notes

• Calms.
• Warm weather again.
• They make sail•• at Sea.
• A great Eclipse of the Sun.
• 〈1 paragraph〉〈1 paragraph〉
• Magallan Clouds.
• Much rain.
• Their allow∣ance shotned again.
• Their allow∣ance still shor∣tens.
• Their Main-mast in danger.
• Water-snakes and Seals.
• 〈◊〉〈◊〉 of sea-grass.
• A 〈◊〉〈◊〉 sky 〈…〉〈…〉.
• 〈1 paragraph〉〈1 paragraph〉
• 〈1 paragraph〉〈1 paragraph〉
• 〈1 paragraph〉〈1 paragraph〉
• High-lands 〈◊〉〈◊〉 Arica.
• Punta de Hilo.
• Great want of water.
• Hal•• a p••nt a day.
• 〈1 paragraph〉〈1 paragraph〉
• 〈1 paragraph〉〈1 paragraph〉
• 〈1 paragraph〉〈1 paragraph〉
• Hill of Arica
• They 〈◊〉〈◊〉 a∣way for Hilo.
• 〈1 paragraph〉〈1 paragraph〉
• 〈◊〉〈◊〉 price at the Port.
• ••he Town ta∣ken.
• They search the valley.
• They agree with the Spa∣niards.
• 〈…〉〈…〉 to 〈◊〉〈◊〉 double dealing in the enemy.
• 〈1 paragraph〉〈1 paragraph〉
• 〈1 paragraph〉〈1 paragraph〉
• They burn the sugar-work
• Three hundred Horse coming against the••
• 〈1 paragraph〉〈1 paragraph〉
• What they got at Hilo.