Pomona, or, An appendix concerning fruit-trees in relation to cider the making and several ways of ordering it.

OBSERVATIONS Concerning the Making, and Preserving OF CIDER:

BY IOHN NEWBVRGH Esq

1.

IF the Apples are made up immediately from the Tree, they are observ'd to yield more, but not so good Cider, as when hoarded the space of a Moneth so six weeks; and if they contract any unpleasing taste (as sometimes 'tis confess'd they do) it may be imputed to the Room they lie in, which if it hath any thing in it, of either too sweet or unsavoury smell, the Apples (as things most susceptible of impression) will be easily tainted thereby.

One of my acquaintance, when a child, hoarding Apples in a Box where Rose-Cakes and other sweets were their companions, found them of so unsavoury taste, and of so rank a relish deriv'd from the too near neighbour-hood of the Perfumes, that even a childish palate (which seldom mislikes any thing that looks like an Apple) could not dispense with it.

2.

It is therefore observ'd by prudent Fruiterers, to lay their Ap∣ples upon clean new made Reed, till they grind them for Cider, or otherwise make use of them. And if, notwithstanding this caution, they contract any rottenness before they come to the Cider-press, the damage will not be great, if care be had before the Apples be ground, to pick out the finnewed and the black∣rotten; the rest, though somewhat of putrefaction hath pass'd upon them, will not render the Cider ill condition'd, either in re∣spect of taste, or duration.

A Friend of mine having made provision of Apples for Cider, whereof so great a part were found rotten when the time of grind∣ing them came, that they did, as 'twere wash the Room with their Juice, through which they were carried to the Wring, had Cider from them not only passable, but exceeding good; though not without previous use of the pre-mention'd Caution. I am also assured by a Neighbour of mine, That a Brother of his who is a great Cider-Merchant in Devonshire, is by frequent experience so well satisfied of the harmlesness of Rotten-Apples, that he makes no scruple of exchanging with any one that comes to his Cider-press, a Bushel of sound-Apples for the same measure of the other. Herein, I suppose, (if in other respects they be not pre∣judicial) he may be a gainer by the near compression of the taint∣ed Fruit, which, as we speak in our Country Phrase, will go nearer together than the other. His advantage may be the greater, if the conceit which goes current with them be not a bottomless fancy, That a convenient quantity of rotten-Apples mixt with the sound, is greatly assistant to the work of fermenta∣tion, and notably helps to clarifie the Cider.

3.

It matters not much whether the Cider be forc'd to purge it self by working downwards in the Barrel, or upwards at the usu∣al Vent, so there be matter sufficient left on the top for a thick skin or film, which will sometimes be drawn over it when it works, after the usual manner, as when 'tis presently stopt up with space left for fermentation, to be perform'd altogether with∣in the Vessel.

The thick skin, or Leathern-coat, the Cider oftentimes con∣tracts, as well after it hath purged it self after the usual manner, as otherwise, is held the surest preservation of its spirits, and the best security against other inconveniences incident to this, and other like vinous Liquors, of which the Devonshire Cider-Merchants are so sensible, that, beside the particular care they take, that matter be not wanting for the Contexture of this up∣per garment by stopping up the Vessel as soon as they have fill'd it; (with the allowance of a Gallon or two upon the score of Fermentation) they cast in Wheaten Bran, or Dust, to thicken the Coat, and render it more certainly Air-proof. And I think you will believe their care in this kind not impertinent, if you can believe a story which I have to tell of its marvellous efficacy: A near neighbour of mine assures me, that his Wife having this year filled a Barrel with Mead, being strong, it wrought so boi∣strously in the Vessel, that the good Woman casting her eye that way, accidentally, found it leaking at every chink, which ascrib∣ing to the strength of the Liquor, she thought immediately by giving it vent, to save both the Liquor and the Vessel, but in vain; both the Stopples being pulled out, the leakage still con∣tinued, and the Vessel not at all reliev'd, till casually at length

putting in her finger at the top, she brake the premention'd film; which done, a good part of the Mead immediately flying out, left the residue in peace, and the leakage ceased. It may seem incredible that so thin a skin should be more coercive to a muti∣nous Liquor, than a Barrel with Oaken-Ribs, and stubborn Hoops: But I am so well assur'd of the veritableness of my Neigh∣bours Relation, that I dare not question it: The reason of it let wiser men determine.

4.

If the Apples be abortive, having been (as it usually happens) shaken down before the time by a violent Wind, it is observ'd to be so indispensably necessary that they lie together in hoard, at least till the usual time of their maturity, that the Cider other∣wise is seldom, or never found worth the drinking.

A Neighbour told me, That making a quantity of Cider with Wind-falls which he let ripen in the Hoard, near a month inter∣ceding between the time of their decussion, and that which Na∣ture intended for their maturity; his Cider prov'd very good, when all his Neighbours who made up their untimely fruit assoon as it fell, had a crude, austere, indigested Liquor, not worth the name of Cider.

5.

No Liquor is observ'd to be more easily affected with the savour of the Vessel it is put into, than Cider; therefore sin∣gular care is taken by discreet Cider-Masters, That the Vessel be not only tasteless, but also well prepar'd for the Liquor they in∣tend to fill it with. If it be a new Cask, they prepare it by scalding it with Water, wherein a good quantity of Apple-pomice hath been boil'd: if a tainted Cask, they have divers ways of cleansing it. Some boil an Ounce of Pepper in so much Water as will fill an Hogshead, which they let stand in a Vessel of that ca∣pacity two or three days, and then wash it with a convenient quantity of fresh Water scalding hot, which they say is an un∣doubted cure for the most dangerously infected Vessel. A Friend and Neighbour of mine herewith cured a Vessel of so extream ill savour, as it was thought it would little less than poyson any Li∣quor that was put into it. Others have a more easie, and per∣haps no less effectual Remedy. They take two or three stones of quick-Lime, which in six or seven Gallons of Water they set on work in the Hogshead being close stopt, and tumbling it up and down till the commotion cease, it doth the feat. Of Vessels that have been formerly used, next to that which hath been already acquainted with Cider, a White-Wine, or Vinegar Cask is esteem'd the best; Claret or Sack not so good. A Barrel newly tenanted by small Beer suits better with Cider than a strong-Beer Vessel.

6.

Half a peck of unground Wheat put to Cider that is harsh and eager, will renew its fermentation, and render it more mild and gentle. Sometimes it happens without the use of any such means to change with the season, and becomes of sharp and sour unex∣pectedly benigne and pleasant. Two or three Eggs whole put into an Hogshead of Cider that is become sharp and near of kin to Vi∣negar, sometimes rarely lenifies and gentilizes it. One pound of broad-figs slit, is said to dulcifie an Hogshead of such Cider.

A Neighbour Divine, of my acquaintance, assured me, That coming into a Parsonage-house in Devonshire, where he found ele∣ven Hogsheads of Cider; being unwilling to sell what he never bought, he was three years in spending that store which the for∣mer Incumbent had left him; and it greatly amus'd him (as well it might, if he remember'd the old Proverb, He mends as sour Ale in Summer) to find the same Cider, which in Winter was almost as sharp as Vinegar, in the Summer become a potable and good-natur'd Liquor.

7.

A little quantity of Mustard will clear an Hogshead of muddy Cider. The same Virtue is ascribed to two or three rotten Apples put into it. Mustard made with Sack preserves boild Cider, and spirits it egregiously.

8.

Cider is found to ferment much better in mild and moist, than in cold and dry weather. Every ones Experience hath taught him so much in the late frosty season. If it had not wrought be∣fore, it was in vain to expect its working or clearing then, unless by some of the artificial means premention'd, which also could not be made use of in a more inconvenient time.

9.

The latter running of the Cider bottled immediately from the Wring, is by some esteem'd a pure, clear, small, well relisht Li∣quot; but so much undervalued by them who desire strong drinks more than wholesome, that they will not suffer it to incor∣porate with the first running.

In Devonshire where their Wrings are so hugely great, that an Hogshead or two runs out commonly before the Apples suffer any considerable pressure, they value this before the other, much

after the rate which we set upon life-honey (that which in like sort drops freely out of the Combs) above that which renders not it self without compression. In Iersey they value it a Crown upon an Hogshead dearer than the other: (This I take from the Relation of one of my Neighbours, who sometimes lived in that Island, which for Apples and Cider is one of the most famous of all belonging to his Majesties Dominions) Yet even upon this, and their choicest Ciders, they commonly bestow a pail of water to every Hogshead, being so far (it seems) of Pindar's mind, that they fear not any prejudice to their most excellent Liquors by a dash of that most excellent Ele∣ment: Insomuch that it goes for a common saying amongst them, That if any Cider can be found in their Island, which can be prov'd to have no mixture of Water, 'tis clearly forfeited. It seems they are strongly conceited, that this addition of the most useful Element, doth greatly meliorate their Cider, both in respect of Colour, Taste, and Cla∣rity.

10.

The best Cider-fruit with us in this part of Dorsetshire (lying near Bred-port) next to Pepin and Pearmain, is a Bitter-sweet, or (as we vulgarly call them) Bitter-scale, of which for the first, the Cider unboil'd keeps well for one year; boiling it you may keep it two years or longer.

About seven years since I gave my self the Experience of Bit∣ter-scale Cider both crude and boil'd. I call'd them both to ac∣count at twelve Months end. I then found the crude Cider seemingly as good, if not better, than the boiled. But, having stopt up the boil'd, I took it to task again about ten Months after. At which time, I found it so excessively strong, that five persons would hardly venture upon an ordinary Glass full of it. My friends would hardly believe but I had heightned it with some of my Chymical Spirits. The truth is, I do not remember that I ever drunk any Liquor, on this side Spirits, so highly strong, and spirituous; but wanting pleasantness answerable to its strength, I was not very fond of my Experiment. In which I boil'd away, as I remember, more than half.

11.

A Neighbour having a good Provent of pure-Lings (an Apple of choice account with us) making up a good part of them to Cider, expected rare Liquor, but it prov'd very mean and pitiful Cider, as generally we find that to be, which is made without mixture. We have few Apples with us, be∣side the Bitter-scale, which yield good Cider alone; next to it

is a Deans-Apple, and the Peleasantine I think may be mention'd in the third place; neither of which need the Addition of other Apples to set off the Relish, as do the rest of our choicest Fruits. Pepins, Pearmains, and Gilliflours, commixt, are said to make the best Cider in the world. In Iersey 'tis a general observation, as I hear, That the more of red any Apple hath in its rind, the more proper it is for this use. Paleface't-Apples they exclude as much as may be from their Cider-Vat. 'Tis with us an observation, That no sweet-Apple that hath a tough rind, is bad for Cider.

12.

If you boil your Cider, special care is to be had, That you put it into the furnace immediately from the Wring; otherwise, if it be ••et stand in Vats or Vessels two or three days after the pressure, the best, and most spirituous part will ascend, and vapour away when the fire is put under it; and the longer the boiling continues, the less of goodness, or virtue will be left remaining in the Cider.

My Distillations sufficiently instruct me, That the same Liquor which (after fermentation hath pass'd upon it) yields a plentiful quantity of spirit, drawn off unfermented, yields nothing at all of spirit. And upon the same account it is undoubtedly certain, That Cider boil'd immediately from the Wring, hath its spirits com∣prest, and drawn into a narrower compass, which are for the most part wash'd and evaporated by late unseasonable boiling.