A new voyage to the Levant containing an account of the most remarkable curiosities in Germany, France, Italy, Malta, and Turkey : with historical observations relating to the present and ancient state of those countries / by the Sieur du Mont ; done into English, and adorn'd with figures.

LETTER XVII.

SIR,

I Cannot express my Amazement at the sight of those stately Monuments that make Cairo the most admirable City in the World, and convince the Beholder of so many Wonders, that the ancient Kings of Egypt were the most powerful Monarchs in the Universe. We are usually fill'd with a high Idea of the Roman Grandeur, because we view it at a less distance: But how vastly inferiour are the Pantheon, Collieseum, Capitol, and all the other celebrated Stru∣ctures of Rome, to these Magnificent Sepulchres which have for so many Ages stood firm against all the Attacks of Time and Age, and piercing the Sky with their lofty Tops, seem to be Copies of the Tower of Babel. At least 'tis plain, that the Founders of these Egyptian Monuments were acted by the same Designs that mov'd Nimrod to erect that famous Tower. They saw that all things were subject to the irresistible Power of Fate, which de∣stroys in a Moment the most illustrious and potent Empires, and annihilates even the Memory of their Grandeur. Their Souls were too elevated to sub∣mit to the common Destiny of other Mortals; and the sublimity of their Courage inspir'd 'em with the noble and glorious Resolution of making them∣selves Immortal in spite of Death. This was the design of those Egyptian Hero's, and 'tis to their Heroical Ambition that we owe the Possession of these Wonders of the World. How often do I wish you had been an Eye-witness and Partaker of my Happiness, when I stood gazing on so many Beau∣ties that are not to be found any where else, and

might justifie the Curiosity of a Traveller, tho' he shou'd come from the remotest part of the Uni∣verse to admire 'em.

These Monuments are of several kinds, but there are none so admirably magnificent as the Pyramids, which are so highly celebrated by ancient Histori∣ans. Two of the three principal Pyramids are shut, the other which appears biggest is open: 'Tis seated (I mean the last) very near the other two, three Leagues from Cairo, if that name be confin'd to the New City, or two Leagues and a half, taking in the Old. 'Tis a vast artificial Mountain, compos'd of Free-Stones of different bigness; for we cannot suppose it possible, that there cou'd have been a sufficient quantity of Stones found exactly of the same Dimensions, for the building of so prodigious a Mass; but the smallest are a Foot thick, and two Foot long; some being three Foot thick, six long, and four broad. Its heighth amounts to 520 Feet, and the breadth of each Face to 682.

The Ascent consists of between 200 and 210 Steps. The Top appears like the point of a Spire to those that are below; but when they go up to it, they are surpriz'd to find a Platform 24 Foot square; and their Wonder is still encreas'd, when they ob∣serve that so large a space is pav'd only with 12 Stones; for 'tis hardly conceivable how Stones of that Bulk cou'd be rais'd to so vast a heighth. From thence you have the Prospect of Boulac, old and new Cairo, the Ruines of Memphis, the Moun∣tain and the Desarts of Egypt: But he who can look to the bottom of the Steps without Amaze∣ment, may justly boast of the strength of his Head; for my part, I must confess I was struck with so much horror when I cast my Eye downward, that I was hardly sensible of any Pleasure in viewing so great a variety of Objects. There were formerly Steps on every side, but Time that consumes all

things has so wasted some of the Stones, that in se∣veral Parts there are dreadful Precipices; and therefore Strangers dare not venture to ascend with∣out the assistance of Guides that are acquainted with the safest ways. At the bottom of the Pyra∣mid there is a heap of Sand that reaches to the six∣teenth step, where there is a little door, thro' which (after you have drunk a refreshing Cup) you may enter into a sort of descending Alley, 30 paces long, about three Foot and a half high, and of equal breadth, so that a Man cannot walk in it without bowing his Body extreamly. At the end of this Alley you must lie down upon your Belly, and creep thro' a little Wicket, which is even with the Ground, and brings you into another little Alley like the former, only in this you must ascend, whereas you descended in the other. This Alley ends in two others; that on the Right-hand has no inclination, and leads to a little Vaulted Cham∣ber 18 Foot long, and 12 broad. At the entrance into this Alley there is a very deep Pit or Well without Water: Some Travellers go down into it, but I did not follow their Example: For I thought I had already done enough to satisfie my Curiosity, by creeping thro' those Caves which are darker than Hell it self, and in all respects a fit Habitation for the Dead. Besides, they are so full of Bats that flutter about perpetually, and blow out the Candles, that 'twou'd be very dangerous to venture in without a Tinder-Box. Directly opposite to the last Alley, there is another which begins so high in the Wall, that we were forc'd to climb up to it; but to make amends for that inconveniency, 'tis much higher and broader than any of the rest. After I had walk'd 70 Paces, still ascending, I found a sort of Hall 32 Foot long, and 16 broad, pav'd with nine Stones, the length of which is equal to the breadth of the Room. The Walls are of

a very fine and precious kind of Porphyry; and at one end there is an empty Tomb of the same Por∣phyry, seven Foot long and three broad.

I went afterwards to take a view of the two other Pyramids, the least (and according to all ap∣pearances the most ancient) of which was formerly over-laid with Porphyry. 'Tis only 150 Foot high, and each of its Sides or Faces is 200 Foot broad. The common Opinion is, That 'twas Founded by a Young Woman call'd Rhodope, who was Aesop's Fellow-Slave in Egypt; and that the Munificence of her Lovers enabl'd her to build so vast a Work. The other is almost as great as the first; for its height amounts to 510 Feet, and the breadth of each Face to 630. These three Pyramids are of a quadrilateral Figure, and I observ'd the Ruines of an ancient Temple before each of 'em; for 'tis not at all probable, that there were ever any Palaces in that Place; and the huge Idol of Stone that stands very near those decay'd Structures, is, I think, an evident confirmation of the truth of my Con∣jecture. The People of the Country say, that 'twas heretofore famous for Oracles, and I believe 'tis no fabulous Tradition; for there is a very deep Hole in the Head of the Idol, where the Priests might lie conceal'd, and return answers to those who came to propose Questions. 'Tis a Colossus cut in the Rock, representing a Woman, and is 26 Foot high, tho' it scarce reaches down to her Bo∣som, so that 'tis one of the most monstrous Figures in the World.

Three hours Journey from thence there is a Vil∣lage call'd Sacara, in which there are Catacombs or Sepulchral Vaults, but of a different Contrivance from those at Rome and Alexandria. For these are distinct subterraneous Chambers, built of Free-Stone, without the least Communication between one another: There is an opening above, thro'

which you are either let down with a Rope, as into a Well, or must go down a Ladder, according to the various Depth of the Caves. They were here∣tofore full of the Bodies of ancient Egyptians, so skilfully embalm'd, that they were preserv'd entire, perhaps above 4000 Years, with their Epitaphs, Coffins, and curious and magnificent Dresses. The Coffins were enrich'd with Hieroglyphics, and the Figure of the Deceas'd in Relievo; and sometimes there were Idols and Jewels found in 'em. But the Curiosity of the Franks has at last exhausted 'em; tho' 'tis thought there are some that were never open'd, and that the difficulty of finding 'em pro∣ceeds from the Avarice of the Moors, who only know where they are, and keep the Price of such Rarities very high. Yet I made 'em let me down into two or three, where I saw some Pieces of Mum∣my, but so spoil'd, that 'twas impossible to preserve any of 'em.

This Place is so full of Pyramids, that I believe there are above a hundred; but they are not com∣parable to those I mention'd. Yet I observ'd one that wou'd be as big as the first, if it were finish'd: there are also ascending and descending Alleys in it, at the end of which there are three Rooms in dif∣ferent Places. I will not trouble you with a De∣scription of it, since the only remarkable Difference between it and the first, is, that this is only rais'd to half the intended Heighth, if I may judge by its Proportion to the rest, whereas that is compleatly finish'd.

On the other Side of the Nile, directly opposite to this Place, are the Ruines of the ancient City of Memphis, extended along the River, till you come overagainst Old Cairo. They are so confus'd at present, that I spent half a Day in viewing 'em, without finding any thing remarkable.

I confess, Sir, that in pursuance of the Niceties of an exact Method, I shou'd have made you ac∣quainted with the City of Cairo, before I had car∣ry'd you to visit the Rarities in its Neighbourhood. But I cou'd not forbear giving the first place to that which I most admir'd; and besides an Account of Cairo will be as useful and perhaps as acceptable to you at the End, as in the Beginning of my Let∣ter.

The Observation I made concerning the Variety of Opinions about the Extent of Constantinople, is equally applicable to this City, which is divided in∣to three Parts, Boulac, and Old, and New Cairo. Some Travellers scruple to comprehend these three Towns under one Name, because they are separated by Gardens and Fields: but if those Gentlemen were to write to an Inhabitant of any of these Di∣visions, they wou'd certainly direct their Letters to Cairo, and not to Boulac, &c. And 'tis as imperti∣nent a Piece of Nicety to make a Distinction be∣tween Places that are divided by so small a Distance; as 'twou'd be absurd and improper, according to that Opinion, to give the City the Title of Grand Cairo. But not to trouble you with more Arguments, I shall only tell you that I think fit to join all the three Parts together; and that in this Sense Cairo contains four large Hours Journey in Length, and twelve in Compass.

'Twas taken from the Soldans of Egypt, Ann. 1517. by Sultan Selim I. who put to death all the Mamme∣lucks with their Soldan: and since that it has been still subject to the Turks, who in all probability will not be soon nor easily driven out of it. 'Tis the Metropolis of Egypt, and the most considerable Bassa∣ship in Turkey: and since 'tis a City of a vast Ex∣tent, the three Parts that compose it are differently situated. Boulac is the Port of Cairo on the Nile, and is alone as large as Rennes in Bretagne, or the

Hague in Holland. The New City lies further in the Country, at the Foot of a great Hill, and the Old Cairo a little beyond it, on the Banks of the Nile. Thus the New City is depriv'd of the advanta∣geous Neighbourhood of the River, and receives all its Water by a Khaalis or Canal, like that of Alexandria. All the rest of the Cities of Egypt are also furnish'd with such Aqueducts, without which they wou••d be wholly destitute of Water. This is the Inconveniency, or rather the Misery of the Country; for the Heat is very troublesome during the Summer: and so much the more insupportable, because all the Ground is cover'd with Sand, which grows burning hot, and makes the Air so sultry, that one can scarce breathe in it. Judge, Sir, what a Pleasure 'twou'd be in that Season, to drink a Cup of cold and fresh Water; and yet the poor In∣habitants must content themselves with the nasty Puddle that has stood about a Year in the Cisterns, or (which is almost as bad) with the Water that is carry'd about the Streets to be sold in Pitchers made of Goats Skins, by the Moors. For the Khaa∣lis is dry for the Space of six Months, and begins not to be fill'd till the Month of August, when the Nile is almost come to its greatest Heighth. Then they cut the Dam or Bank, that kept out the Wa∣ter, which immediately gushes into the Canal, and continues to flow during the Encrease of the River, that is, till near the End of October, after which it decreases by degrees. The Day of the Opening of the Khaalis is observ'd in this City as a Festival, with extraordinary Marks of Joy: but since I have nei∣ther seen, nor am like to see that Ceremony, you may consult some other Travellers for an Account of it. The Khaalis passes thro' the New City, and fills a vast number of Cisterns and Basons for Gar∣dens. The Inundation of the Nile is the only Cause of the Fruitfulness of Egypt; for without that

'twou'd be one vast Desart, as those Parts are, which are depriv'd of that Advantage by reason of their Distance from the River. These Floods, which are occasion'd by the Melting of the Snow in the Moun∣tains, fatten the Soil more effectually than the best Dung in the World cou'd possibly do: and indeed those Spots of Ground that are wash'd by the Inun∣dation are admirably fertil. I cannot leave this Sub∣ject without taking Notice of the Vulgar Errour, That it never rains in this Country; for during the little time I have spent in it, I have observ'd some Showers; tho' I must confess it rains not so frequent∣ly here as in other Countries.

The Nile is very near as broad as the Rhine: it crosses the whole Country of Egypt; and during the time of its Inundation, it overflows for the space of two Months, all the neighbouring Fields, which only are inhabited, the rest of the Land being co∣ver'd with dry and burning Sands. It falls into the Mediterranean by two Mouths, about 80 Miles di∣stant. 'Tis famous over all the World for its Cro∣codiles, and it must be acknowledg'd that it contains a great number of very large ones, but they are neither venomous, nor so terrible as they are usu∣ally represented.

If I shou'd tell you that there are 23000 Mosquees in this City, you'd certainly laugh at my Credulity, that cou'd swallow such a monstrous Fable. How∣ever, Sir, 'tis held by all the Inhabitants as a most certain Truth; and they are no less firmly persua∣ded that there are as many distinct Quarters or Wards, containing several Streets each, according to which Computation there are at least 100000 Streets in the City. 'Tis true, they are extremely small and narrow, but I dare not positively assure you that there is such a prodigious Number of 'em, especially since I never counted 'em. 'Tis also said that when the Plague rages in this Place, it sweeps

away 10000 Persons a-day; nor do I think this Story so incredible as the other: for the City is ex∣tremely populous, and there is as great a Concourse of People at the Bazar or Market every Thursday, as at the most crowded Fairs in Europe. This Bazar is the only to lerable Street in Cairo, and the Besestin at one of the Ends of it is at least as fine and rich as that of Constantinople. At the other End there is a Market of Slaves, where a Man may be always accommodated with a pretty Girl, at the Rate of 100 or 150 Pi∣asters. All the Houses are of Wood, with Plat∣forms on the Top, after the Turkish Fashion: The Outside is as mean, as the Inside is said to be beau∣tiful. 'Tis true, I never view'd 'em within, and therefore will not desire you to believe that they deserve the last part of that Character; for it de∣pends entirely upon the Testimony of the Franks, who are guilty of an unaccountable Prejudice, in magnifying the Turkish Magnificence. This is cer∣tainly a very great and inexcusable Weakness; and I know not whether it is more unreasonable to ad∣mire all things or nothing. We ought indeed to do Justice to every thing that is either Good or Beauti∣ful: but I know no Reason that obliges us to extoll the most ordinary Beauty, or rather Deformity it self, especially in a Place that may justly boast of so many incomparable Wonders, among which I may venture to reckon the ancient and vast Castle of Cairo. 'Tis true, it may be said to be a mere Heap of inhabited Ruines: but these Ruines are ex∣tremely Magnificent, and suitable to the Glory and Power of Pharaoh, who is reputed to be the Foun∣der both of this Structure, and of the great open Pyramid. It stands directly in the Middle of the City, between the Old aud New Town, on so large and steep a Rock, that one wou'd think it was pur∣posely fram'd by Nature to secure and command Grand Cairo. 'Tis above two Miles in Compass, and

was formerly surrounded with thick Walls, like those of Alexandria; flank'd at the end of every hundred Paces with great and very strong Towers. It has four Gates which lead into a fine open Place, and from thence to several Streets; so that it seems rather to be a Town than a Castle. The Turks have profan'd these venerable Monuments, by disfigu∣ring 'em with their Cottages, which look like so many Rats-Nests. Some Parts of Pharaoh's Palace remain still to be seen: The Room call'd Joseph's Hall, is enrich'd with Gold and Azure, and adorn'd with thirty fine Columns of Porphyry. That of his Steward or Intendant, is not so entire, and is only remarkable for twelve Columns of Thebaic Marble, which are not much inferiour to the for∣mer in Beauty. But the entirest and most admirable Work in this Place, is the celebrated Well of Joseph. 'Tis cut or hollow'd in the hard Rock, a hundred and six Foot deep, of a square Figure, each Side containing eleven Feet, without reckn'ning the Stair-Case, which is seven Foot broad, and cut out of the same Rock. It turns round the Well, and consists of twelve several Windings, six of which contain eighteen Steps a-piece, and the other six, nineteen; so that the total Number of the Steps amounts to to Two hundred twenty two. The Stairs are so easie and commodious, that they make two Oxen go down every day to the Bottom of the Well, which is dry, and from thence to a little square Room, where there is a Spring, out of which they draw Water continually, by a certain Con∣trivance of Wheels hung round with Buckets, that discharge the Water into a Bason or Cistern in the midst of the dry Pit or Well; from whence 'tis rais'd up in Buckets fasten'd to Ropes, that are let down and drawn up again by the turning of other Wheels. Round the Stair-Case on the Inside there are Walls that serve instead of Rails, and secure

those that go down from falling. At the Bottom of the Well there is a Door on the Right-hand, and another on the Left, both cut out of the Rock: and 'tis commonly believ'd that one of 'em leads to the Red-Sea, and the other to the Pyramids. The first is impossible, for the Sea is above thirty Leagues di∣stant: but the second is not at all improbable, con∣sidering the great Works that were undertaken and perform'd by the ancient Egyptians, and the Care they took to dig subterraneous Passages to secure their Retreat in case of Necessity. 'Tis true, the Greatness of the Distance, and Hardness of the Rock cou'd not but make this Attempt very diffi∣cult; but after all 'tis not near so vast a Work as the Pyramids, and there must be some Passage that begins at this Place: for tho' the Doors are at pre∣sent wall'd up, 'tis plain they were design'd for some Use. You will not be surpriz'd at the Magnificence of this Well, nor wonder what made the Egyptians bestow so much Time, Pains and Cost on the dig∣ging of it, if you consider how precious and valu∣able Water is in this Country. For (as I told you in my last) there are but two Springs in all Egypt, This, and That of Maltharea, of which I shall give you some Account before I finish my Let∣ter. And it seems the Egyptian Monarchs were afraid that these two Fountains shou'd at last be dry'd up; for they took care to bring Water from the Nile in a very fine Aqueduct, beginning betwixt Old Cairo and Boulac, and reaching as far as the Castle. Not far from Joseph's Palace there is a dreadful Prison, consisting of several Dungeons cut out of the Rock. It bears the Name of the same Patriarch, because 'twas here, according to the common Opinion, where he interpreted the Dreams of the Bu••ler and Baker: if this Tradition be true, it must be acknowledg'd, that he was in a lamen∣table Condition, for this is certainly a very dismal Place.

Maltharea is a Place about a large League distant from the City, whither the Franks often walk to en∣joy the pleasant Shade of its fine Orange-Trees, and refresh themselves with its delicious Water. There is also a little Chapel in the same place, which, 'tis said, the Blessed Virgin chose for her Abode, when she fled to Egypt with her Son Jesus; but the Circumstances of the Story are so improbable, that it seems to be of the same Stamp with other fabulous Legends. For they pretend that while she liv'd in that little House, perceiving at a great distance the Men whom Herod had sent after her, and, not knowing where to flee, an old Sycamore burst open to receive her and the little Jesus, and closing again secur'd 'em from the Rage of their Enemies. Assoon as the Danger was over the miraculous Tree let 'em forth, and remain'd open ever afterwards; but 'tis extremely decay'd at present, and part of it is fall'n away. However I spent two Hours near it with a great deal of Pleasure; for the Sun shone very bright that Day, and the Verdure of the Myrtle, Orange, and Limon-Trees was extremely agree∣able.

There is another little Chapel in Old Cairo, where the Virgin resided for some time: and near that there are large Store-houses for Corn, which are thought to be the same that Joseph built when he laid up Provisions against the seven Years of Fa∣mine.

Thus, Sir, I have entertain'd you with an Ac∣count of some of the Aegyptian Rarities. 'Tis true, there are many other remarkable Monuments in this Country, that are worthy of a Traveller's Cu∣riosity; but the very Sight of those howling De∣sarts deterr me from undertaking a Journey that wou'd expose me to so many Dangers and Incon∣veniencies. Besides 'twou'd require a great deal of Money, and I begin already to perceive that I must

take more than ordinary care to Husband my Stock. I find also that the same consideration will not suf∣fer me to prosecute my design of visiting the Holy Land, tho' 'tis not without an extream reluctancy that I'm forc'd to deprive my self of the fight of a place which the Saviour of the World hallow'd with his presence. But the Journey is prodigiously chargeable, and I'm resolv'd to deny my self that satisfaction rather than to put my self in a conditi∣on that might oblige me to return to France. I in∣tend then to Embark on a Greek Saique, which in few days will set Sail for Smyrna, where, I hope, I may easily find an occasion for Venice.

I am,

SIR,

Your &c.

Cairo, Feb. 1691.