The travellours guide and historians faithful companion giving an account of the most remarkable things and matters relating to the religion, government, custom, manners, laws, pollicies, companies, trade, &c. in all the principal kingdoms, being the 16 years travels of William Carr, Gentleman ...

Some Necessarie REMARKS for such as Entend to TRAVEL Thro the Province of HOLLAND.

AS they that confine them∣selves to their own coun∣trie have not the oppor∣tunitie to see and observe Rarities in other parts of the world: so such as goe into forrain places, rather wander at Random then travel, who hane not the Cu∣riositie to Commit to memorie or writing such things they meet with, both for thier own and others Satis∣faction, as may Demonstrate the fruits of their travels.

I Confesse all Travellers are not

of alike Temper: Some delight themselves in contemplation of the curiosities of Arts, som are taken with the varieties of the works of nature, others speculate with a kind of Reverence the decays and ruins of Antiquitie, others studiously in∣form themselves with the trans∣actions of Modern tymes, others with thee Gouvernment and Politie, other speculate the strange customs and fashion of the places they passe thro; To be short everie one labors to entertain the reader with those objects and rarities of forain parts, his Genius and inclination is most affected with.

As to my self, although during the space of 16 yeaves travel, I might have inlarged, according to the curiositie and opportunitie I have had in the rehearsal of many rare and exquisite things verie observa∣ble: yet my chiefe aime was to make such remarks, as might most con∣tribute to the common good of hu∣mane

society and civil life, in taking notice of the Government and Poli∣tie of the several States and Domi∣nions where I have been, viz. The Ʋnited Provinces, Germany, Den∣mark, Sweeden, and other coun∣tries, whose natural temper and disposition seemed to me most to sympathise with our English nation, and thereby have an occa••••on to do some good to my own countrie. Expect not Reader alike punctual∣ness, as to all the forementioned pla∣ces, because very many things which I might have observed, are much agreeing, and so may be referred, to what shall be spoken of the Poli∣tie and Government of Holland, which, for reasons I shall by and by hint at, is the Chief End I aimed at in this treatise.

We will begin then in the first place with the Common-wealth of Holland, and Dominions of the States General which for some years

hath been in a declining condition, and their forces exceedingly wea∣kned, by reason of that fatal War it managed against England, France and the Bishop of Munster, that Po∣litick body was so tottered and torn, as did threaten its utter and total ruine.

But as bodies whisher natural or Politick, after that a violent fit hath sore shaken, dissipated and exhau∣sted their spirits, may recover vi∣gor and look lively again, if so be radical constitution and natural temper be not wholly changed and depraved: even so This Common∣wealth of Holland hath visibly reco∣vered strength again and probably may attain to its former force and Lustre, except some depravation in its vital humours should still keep it languishing, and obstruct its perfect cure.

We will therefore make some re∣marks

as to the defects and faylings (observed not onely by me but also by others) which that famous Com∣monwealth hath of late yeares bin guiltie of: which I shal doe not out of any malice or disigne of reflection, the intention of writing this treatise being simplie to insert those de∣faults, which the wisest of Authors have alwayes Judged necessarie not onely for the reformation of this, but of all states whatsoever.

This Commonwealth of Holland hath worthily bin the wonder of all Europe during this last age, and perhaps not to be paralled in the re∣cords of former tymes: for if we con∣sider how many yeares it was assaul∣ted by the then most Potent Prince of Europe, who aspired to no les then the Ʋniversal Empire, and that how formidable soever he were, yet they not onely maintained their preten∣sions, but with uninterrupted pro∣speritie and succesfulnesse advan∣ced their trade, and spread their

conquests in all the foure parts of the world.

Rome it self though most famous and victorious, yet could not, as is believed, in so short a time do, what by this Commonwealth hath bin effected. In India and Affrica they soon forced the Spaniard, and Portugeses to yeeld to them most of their trade and posessions. And tho England put in for a share, yet they were a long while vigourously op∣posed by the Dutch, and to this hour have enough to do, to keep what they have gotten: so that in lesse then an hundred years this Com∣monwealth by their industrie and art in trading, are becom so excessive rich and potent that they began to in∣sult and would needs be Arbitraters to their neighbourning Princes and States, and encroach upon their Territories and Dominions.

This drew upon them that fatal war before mentioned, by which they were sorely weakned and brought

so low, that except God by a more then ordiharie Providence had pro∣tected and appeared for them, they had certainly bin ruinated and never able to recover themselves again, however their pride hereby was much abated: And as Luxurie and lascivi∣ousnes are the sad effects of prospe∣ritie, as wel as Pride, so such vices in a bodie Politick and Common∣wealth, as do corrupt the radical hu∣mors, by abating the vigour of the Vital parts, doe insensible tend to the consumption and decay of the whole.

That this Commonwealth hath much recovered its strength, may clearly appeare, if we consider what great things they have effected, since the little time they have enjoyed peace: They have in lesse then 7 yeares built about 40 gallant ships of war; They have laid out vast sums of trea∣sure in refortifying Narden, Ma∣stricht, Breda, the Grave and ma∣ny other places: They have payd

vast sums of money to their Allies for their auxiliarie troopes, as also 200000 pound sterling to the King of England to Enjoy their peace with him. And besides all this their Encrease in Riches and power may be guest at, by the many state∣ly houses built within these 5 years in Amsterdam, Rotterdam and other places; to all which we may ad, to what excessive hight the A∣ctions of the East and West-Indie Companie are risen, and the obli∣gations from the Sates are so estee∣med as to securitie, that they Can get as much money as they please at 2 Per cent: not to speak, of the Exceeding encrease of their subjects, occasioned by the French Kings ty∣rannie against the distressed Prote∣stants in France, Alsace and other parts of his Conquests, neither wil we speak of other signes of the encrease of this Commonwealth, as not Judging it convenient to commit them to paper, but wil now pro∣ceed

to shew the Method of Living and travelling in the Dominions and places of the States, which if you do wel consider you May see, how hap∣pie and easie the Government of En∣gland is, above that of other Na∣tions.

The Brill in Holland is the Usual place where the Packet and Kings pleasure boats bring on such as come for to see the United Provinces: here be sure to furnish your self wel with money. From hence you take a boat to Maseland Sluce or Rotter∣dam, which if you goe in Compa∣nie with others, wil only cost you 5 stivers: but if you take one for your self, wil cost 25. stivers for Maseland Sluce, and a Ducaton to Rotterdam. The Fifth part of which goes to the States for a tax, they call Passagie Gelt: and the other 4 parts are for the boat-Men or Shippers, who also out of their gaines must Pay a tax to the States, so that by com∣putation you pay a fift pennie to the

States for your travelling either in boats by water, or in waggons by land.

As you passe by Maseland Sluce you'l see a verie faire fishing village, to which belong near two hundred Herring Buisses, but if you goe by the way of Rotterdam you sail by two old Townes Called Flardin and Schiedam: yet let me advise you be∣fore you depart from the Bril, to take a serious view of it, as beeing the citie which in Queen Elisabeths time was one of the Cautionarie Townes pawned to England. The Brill had a voyce among the States, but by reason Rotterdam hath got away their Trade, by which having lost its former lustre, is now become afishing town onely.

Rotterdam is the second Citie for trade in Holland and by some is caled little London, as having vast traffick with England, in so much that many of the citisens speak good English. There are in this citie two

considerable Churches of English and Scotch: and how great a trade they drive with the King of Englands subjects is evident, for in the yeare 1674 at the opening of the waters after a great frost, there departed out of Rotterdam 300 Sail of Englesh, Scotch and Irish Ships at once with an Easterly wind: And if a reason should be demanded how it coms to passe, that so many En∣glish Ships should frequently com to that haven? It is casilie answered, because they can ordinarily Load and unload, and make returns to England from Rotterdam, before a Ship can get clear from Am∣sterdam and the Texel: And ther∣fore your English Merchants find it Cheaper and more commodious for trade, that after their goods are arrived at Rotterdam, to send their goods in boats Landward in, to Am∣sterdam.

This citie is famous as beeing the place where Great Erasmus was

born, whose Statue of Brasse stands erected in the Market place; And al∣though the buldings here are not so superb as those of Amsterdam, Ley∣den or Harlem, yet the places worth the seeing, are, first the Great Church where Several Admirals Lay State∣ly Entombed, here you see their Admiraltie, East Indie, and Stat∣houses together with that caled, hot Gemeen Lands Huis.

From Rotterdam you may for 5 stivers have a boat to bring you to Delph, but before you com thither you passe thro a faire village called Overschie, where the French and English youths are trayned up in lit∣terature, as to the Latin and Dutch tongue, Booke keeping, &c: from thence in the same boat you com to Delph which is famous for making of Porceline to that degree, that it much resembles the China, but onely it is not transparent.

In Delph is the great Magasin of Arms for the whole Province of

Holland: Their churches are verie large, in one of which are Tombs of the Princes of Orange, Admiral Tromp and General Morgans Ladie, and in the Cloyster over against the Church you have an Inscription in a Pillar of Brasse, shewing after what manner William the 1, that famous Prince of Orange was Shot to death by a miscreant Jesuist, with his de∣served punishment.

Delph hath the 3^d voyce in the States of Holland, and sends its Deputies unto the Colledge of the States General, and to all other col∣ledges of the Commonwealth. They have also a Chamber in the East-Indie Companie, as shal be more largely spoken to, when we shal com to treat of the State of the said Com∣panie.

From Delph you may by boat be brought to the Hague for 2 Stivers and an halfe: Which is accounted the fairest Village in the world, both for Pompous buildings and the large∣nes

thereof; Here the Princes of Orange hold their Residence: as also the States General and the Coun∣cel of State, Here you have the Courts of Justice, Chancerie, and other Courts of Law. Here you see that Great Hall, in which ma∣ny Hundreds of coulers are hung up in Trophie, taken from the Em∣peror, Spaniard and other Poten∣tates with whom they have waged war. There Councel Chambers are admired by all that see them. Ma∣ny faire Libraries they have be∣longing to particular men. The Princes Pallace is a most superb building, And there are many cost∣lie Gardins adjoyning to the Hague, together with that to the Princes house in the Woad, in which house are in a large Hall the most rare and costly Pictures of Europe, there also are those magnificent and unparal∣led Gardins of the Heer Bentham, of Amesland and others. I might here speak of the splendor of the Prince

of Orange his Court, of his noble virtues and valour, of the most vir∣tuous and Beautiful Princesse his roy∣al confort, but I dare not, least I should infinitely fal short of what ought to be, and which others have alreadie don before me: and therfore leaving the Hague, I shal onely tel you that from thence you may for 7 Stivers have a boat to bring you to Leyden. Leyden is a faire and great citie, and the Universitie is verie famous, beeing frequented by 1000 of Students from all parts, as Hungarie, Poland, Germanie, yea from the Ottomans Empire it self, who pretend to be grecians, besides the English, Scots and Irish, who this years were num∣bred to be above 80.

The most remarkable things here to be seen, I shal summarilie set down: As the place called the Bergh, formerly a Castle belonging to the Prince of Liege in Flanders: The Stathowse, the Ʋniversitie Schooles,

specially that of the Anatomie, which excels all the Anatomie Schooles in the world, a Book of the rarities whereof you may have for 6 Stivers, their Physick Garden, and the Professors Closet are al ravishing in rare Curiosities. But as to their Colledges, they are but two and ve∣rie small, not ro be compared with the smallest Hals in Oxford, nei∣ther have they any endowments, their maintenance being onely from the charitable collections of the Ministers of Holland, neyther are any Students to remain longer there, then til they attain the degree of Batchelers of Art: One of the Curators beeing demaunded by me, why so rich a Commonwealth as Holland is, did not build and en∣dow Colledges after the manner of Oxford and Cambridge, answered they had not so many able and pu∣blick spirited men as are in England, and to deal plainly with you, said he, had we such Colledges, our

Burgemasters and Magistrates would fil them with their own and their friends sons, who by leading a lazie and idle life would never be∣com capable to serve the Common∣wealth, and therefore he judged it much better to put them to Pension in Burgers howses, leaveing them to the care of the Professors, who are verie diligent in keeping the Stu∣dents at their exercises, both at Publick lectures and in their private howses also, where they cause them Punctually at their appointed houres to come to their examinations and lectures, besides those they have in Publick. Thier churches are rare, so are the walks round the citie, and the fortifications verie pleasing to behold. Here you have the River Rhine running through the citie and falling into it from Catwyckop Zee. Leyden is verie famous in historie, for the long Siege it held out against the Spaniard. From hence for twelve stivers and an half you are brought

to Harlem by water, being twelve English miles.

Harlem is famous in that Costor one of their Burgers, first invented the Art of Printing. This Costor beeing suspected to be a Conjurer, was fain to flee from Harlem to Co∣logne in Germany, and there Perfe∣cted his Invention, having in Har∣lem onely found out the way of prin∣ting on one side of the Paper. The first book he ever printed is kept in the Stathouse, for those that are cu∣rious to see it. Here is one of the fairest and largest Churches of the 17 Provinces, in the wals whereof there remain to this day sticking canon Bullets, shot by the Spaniards du∣ring the Siege thereof. In this Church are three Organs, as also the model of the three Ships, that sayled from Harlem to. Damiater, seasing the Castle in which the Earl of Holland was kept prisoner, and brought him away to Holland: In the Tower of this Church hang two

silver bels which they also brought from thence, and now ring them everie night at nine a clock.

Harlem is renowned for making the finest linnen cloth, Tyfinies Dammasks and silk Stufs; also Ri∣bands and Tapes; They have Mils by which they can weave fortie and 50 Pieces at a time, they make the finest white thread and Tapes for lace in the whole world, there Blea∣cheries surpas al other whatsoever, their waters whitening cloath better then any in the seventeen Provinces: They have a most pleasant grove like a little Wood, divided into Walks where on Sondays and holly dayes the Citisens of Amsterdam and other places come to take their pleasure. Harlem is the second citie of Hol∣land and sends in Deputies unto all the Colledges of the Gouvernment. From hence you have a passage by boat to Amsterdam for six stivers, but when you are come half way you must step out of one boat to goe in∣to

another, where you see a Stately Pallace, where the Lords, called Dykgraves sit, Everie one of these Lords hath his Apartment when he coms for the concerns of the Sea∣dykes, and bancks: here are also 2 large Sluces having gates to let in or out water from the Harlemmer Meer. Near this place about Ano: 1672 a part of the Seabanck was bro∣ken by a strong Northwest wind, drowning all the land betwixt Am∣sterdam and Harlem, which cost an incredible vast sum to have it repai∣red. They sunck in this breach 400 smal vessels fild with earth and stones for a foundation to rebuild the wal upon, and by unspeakable industrie and charges at last repaired the Banck.

I come now to speak of Amster∣dam, which having bin the place of my abode for several yeares, I shal give a more large and punctual ac∣count thereof then I doe of other places; It is esteemed by Intelligent men the second citie in the world for

trade, and not inferiour to any in wealth. Certainly Amsterdam is one of the beautifullest cities in the world, their buildings are large, their streets for the most part plea∣santly planted with trees & paved so neatly, as is to be found no where els in any other Countrie, save in some of the 17 Provinces. And although, as I have alreadie said, Amster∣dam may Justly be taken for the se∣cond or third citie after London and Paris, yet it hath neither Court nor Ʋniversitie, as they have. And now in treating of all the excellen∣cies and virtues of Amsterdam, I shal not hyperbolise, or flatter: for before I have don you shal see, I shal also faithfully declaime against the evils, mistakes and vices in it.

Amsterdam stands upon a thou∣sand Morgans of Land, encompassed with a verie strong wal and Bastions most pleasant to behold, with a ve∣rie large Burgwal or Gracht as they cal it, for the defence of three parts

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of the citie, the fourth being secured by the sea or Ty. There are 13 Churches in this citie for those of the reformed religion (called dutch Presbiterians) to meet and worship in, with two Frencb, one Highdutch and one English, all Presbiterian Churches, who onely are alowed Bels, and whose Ministers are maintaynd by the Magistrate. All these Churches or congregations make up onely a third part of the Inhabitants of the citie: The Papists who have eightie five howses or Chappels to meet in for their wor∣ship, make another third part, and have a long square of howses for their Nuns tolive in, who are not shut up in Cloysters, as in Papists countries they are wont to doe, but may goe in and out at their pleasure, yea and marrie also if they grow wearie of a Nunnish life: These Chur∣ches of the Papists have no bels al∣lowed them, beeing lookt upon as conventicles, and are many times

shut up, and again opened at the Scouts pleasure. The other third part of the citie is made up by Jewes, Lutherans, Arminians, Brownists or English Independents, Anabap∣tists and the Quakers: None of which, as was also said of the Papists, have bels allowed them, but are accoun∣ted Conventicles: and all that marie amongst them, must first be maried by the Magistrate, and then if they pease among themselves in their own assemblies, neyther are any of them admitted unto any Office in the Government, but onely such as are of the reformed or Presbite∣rian profession.

The Jewes who are verie conside∣rable in the trade of this citie have two Synagogues, one whereof is the Largest in Christendom, and as some say in the world, sure I am, it far ex∣ceeds, those in Rome, venice, and all other places where I have bin: Within the Court yard where their Synagogue stands, they have several

Roomes or schooles, where their children are taught Hebrew, and verie carefully, to the shame of Chri∣stians negligence, brought up and instruckted in the Jewish principles.

Amsterdam for the wise States∣men it hath produced, is said to be a second Athens: others make it the Storehowse or Magasin of Europe, for that it hath such great store of Corne, wherewith it furnishes many other nations. And secondly for the exceeding great Magasin of Spices, which in antient times the Venetians brought by land, fur∣nishing all parts of Europe, but now is don by the East-Indie Companie which not onely supplyes Europe therewith, but many places in the Indies also. Thirdly it hath incon∣ceivable store of al manner of pro∣visions for war, In so much that England and divers other nations send to Amsterdam to buy Arms, Bufcoats, Belts, Match &c: yea here are several Shopkeepers who can

deliver Armes for 4000 or 5000 men, and at a cheaper rate then can be got any where else, and this they can doe by reason of their great Industry in the Ingrossing most of the Iron workes on the Rhine and other Rivers which run into Hol∣land. Forthly Amsterdam hath more store of sawed and prepared Tymber for shipping then can be found in any one Nation in the world, and this is the reason why her Neighbour town Sardam is made capable of Building ships 20 per cent cheaper then they can doe in England or France: So that both France, and Spaine do many times buy them in Holland: as lately the King of Spaine bought 10 Capital Ships of the two Brothers the Melts Merchants in this citie. Fifthly Amsterdam is the staple where the Emperor sels his Quicksilver not only to the Spaniard, to use in his mines in the Indies, but for the making of Cinoprium or Vermillion, with which Amsterdam furnisheth not only

Europe, but many places in the Indies.

Sixtly Amsterdam is the Mar∣ket where the French King bought his Marble for Versellis Lou∣vre, and other of his Palaces in France: There are such Vast Ma∣gasins in Amsterdam that a man would think, that sees them, there were Quaries of Marble neare the City Gates. Seaventhly Amster∣dam hath the most considerable Bank that now is in the whole World; I have compared the Bank of Venice with that of Genua and both their Banks write not of so much money in two dayes as Am∣sterdam doth in one: further I have compared the Bank of Venice with Hamburg and find both those Banks fall very much short with the bank of Amsterdam. There are many other particulars I could name, as Arguments to prove the great Riches & Trade of Amsterdam, as those vast Quantities of Wynes, & Brandewynes they sell in the

North & Eastseas, & those vast Countryes adjoyning thereunto, from whence they bring Hemp, Pitch & Tar, & furnish France, Ita∣ly & Spain with the same, & they likewise have much Ingrossed the Copper & Iron of Sweedland. I will say no more of her stores & Magazins, but shall in the next place say some thing of her Church∣es & Charitie to the Poore. I will not speake much of her Church∣es, but only that they are in Ge∣neral large and well built: In one of them the States have Spared no cost to exceed the whole world in 3 things (Viz) an Organ with sets of Pipes that counterfit a Corus of Voyces, it hath 52 whole stops besides halfe stops, & hath 2 rowes of Keyes for the feet, and three rowes of Keyes for the Hands; I have had people of Quality to heare it play, who could not believe but that there were men or Women above singing in the Organ, un∣till

they were convinced by goeing up into the Organ Roome. The second is such a large Carved Pul∣pet & Canapie as cannot be found elsewhere in the world; The third is a Screene of brasle.

The Stathouse in this Citty is a wonderfull superb Building, on the uppermost part of which is a large Magazin of Armes. The Cop∣per Statues that stand on top of the Stathouse are very large & peeces Exellently cast, Espetially that cal∣led Atlas, who hath a Globe of the world on his back that will hold 30 Barels of water, for me to speake of the several rarityes of Pictures, Carved works & marble in this Stat∣house, & of the Globes Celestiall & Terrestriall that are on the floor of the great Hall, would make a Booke of it selfe; I therefore will speake of their Almeshouses & of the Government of the poore, of their Prisons & houses of Correction. This Citty is said to have 20000

poore Every day at Bed & board. The Almeshouses are many & look more like Princes Palaces then Lod∣gings for poore people; First there are houses for poor Ouldmen & Women, then a large square Palace for 300 Widdowes, then there are Hospitals for Boyes & Girles, for Burgers Children & for stran∣gers Children, or those cald Found∣lings, all these boyes & girles have Every sonday & other dayes of Worship 2 doites given them by the Fathers of these Houses, the which the Children put into the Deacons sack when they gather for the Poore in the Churches; Then there is an Hospital for fooles, & a Bedlam: There are Houses where Common Beggers & Gamesters & frequenters of Taphouses are Kept hard at work: There is also a House called the Rasphouse where petty Theeues & such as slash one another with Knives, such as beg with cheating devises, women with fained

great Bellyes, men pretending to have been taken by the Turk, others that pretend wrack at sea, & such as beg with a Clapper or a Bell, as if they could not speake or heare, such as these are kept hard at work, Rasping Every day 50 pounds be∣tween 2 of them, or Else are beaten with a Bulls Pissel, & if yet thy re∣bel & wont work, they are set in a Tub where if they doe not pump the water will swell over their heads; Then there is a House where whores are Kept to worke, as also diso∣bedient Children who live Idle & take no course to maintain them∣selves, likewise Women commonly drinking themselves drunck, and scolds; Althese sorts of Hospitals & Almeshouses are Stately Buildings richly adorned with Pictures & their Lodgings very neat & cleane. In some of the Boyes & Girles Hospi∣tals there are 1500 in some 800 & in some 500 in a House; Then they have Houses where a man or a

Woman may have their Dyet, wash∣ing & Lodging for his life, giving a small summe of money: These are called Brouders houses, the Almes Children of this citie are held in such Veneration & respect that a man had as good strike a Burgemasters Child as one of them. These Children are permitted to travel in any of the Treckscuts freely without money; These Hospitals are Governed by Men & women, as are of an unspotted life & repu∣ted to be rich, devout & pious, it is very observable that the Wo∣men Governe their Women Hospi∣tals better then the men do theirs yea it is a General observation in this Country, that where the Women have the direction of the purse & Trade, the husband seldom prove Bankrupts, it being the propertie of a true borne Hollands-wife presently after marriage to apply her selfe wholly to ber Business; but I for∣bear to say any more of the Duch

Houswives, for feare of displeasing our English Dames, not so much addicted, at least not so Generally bred up to Industry; but to returne to the Acts of Charitie of Am∣sterdam, the which is so Extraor∣dinary that they surpas al other Cittyes in the World, for they are dayly & houerly giveing to the poore, Every House in Amster∣dam hath a Box hanging in a Chaine on which is written Think on the Poore, so that when any merchant sels Goods they com∣monly conclude no bargain, but more or less is put in the Poores Box; These Boxes art Lockt up by the Deacons, who once a quarter goe round the Citty & take the Money out of the Boxes. Then twice a week there are men belon∣ging to the Hospitals that goe round the Citty & ring a bell at every House to Know what the Master or mi∣stris of the House will give to the Box, who Generally give not less

then 2 stivers. Then every first We∣densday of the moneth the Deacons in their turne goe round the Citty from House to House to receive what every house Keeper will give to the Poore, Then on the week before the Sacrament is given, a Minister with an Elder goes round the City to every House where any members of the Presbiterian Reli∣gion live, & there ask if any Diffe∣rences be in the familie, offering their service to reconcile them, al∣soe to Instruct & prepare such as are to receive the Sacrament; At this tyme a Minister may be seen to goe into a Taphouse or Taverne for which at another tyme he would be counted a wyne biber & the worst of Reprobates; At this tyme while these Ministers & Elders goe about the City on their Visiations the people take an Occasion to give to the Poore. And here I ought not to omit telling you of their great Charitie to the distressed French

Protestants, who are here in great Numbers. They maintaine no less then 60 French Ministers, & unto many handicraft Tradesmen and makers of stuffs, & Cloath, they lend sums of Money without In∣trest to buy Working Tooles & materials for their work, but this is no other then they formerly did to the Poore distressed Protestants of Ireland & Piemont, & their Charitie was not a littel that they gave to Geneve towards the buil∣ding their Fortifications; And here give me leave to tell you what King Charles the second said of the Cha∣ritie of Amsterdam, when the Duke of Lotherdal heareing that the Prince of Oranges Armie was not able to oppose the french from ad∣vanting so neare to Amsterdam, the Duke Jeareingly said that Oranges would be very scarse in Holland, af∣ter Amsterdam should fall into the french hands to plunder, to which his Majestie said that he was of o∣pinion

that God would preserve Am∣sterdam from being destroyed if it were only for the great charitie they have for the Poore, the which put the Duke out of Countenance; I will say no more of their Charitie, only this that they leave no stone unturned to bring moneyes into the Poores stock, they make the stage players pay 80000 Gilders a yeare to the Poore: thert is not a Ropedancer, puppetplayer or any of that sort of unnecessary Vermin which frequent faires, but pay the 3d penny to the Poore, which is carefully looked after by placeing an Almesman at the doore of the Booths, to see that they cheat not the Poore of their share; I shall now in the next place say some thing of the Clergie, I meane those called the States Clergie, for the States are absolutely head of their Church, & when any synod of Divines meet, two of the States, are alwayes present to heare that they debate nothing

relating or Reflecting on the Government, or Governers, if they doe, presently the States cry ho la mijn Heeren Predicanten, & if their Ministers meddel with any thing relating to the Goverment in their Pulpits they send them a briefe (which some call a paire of shooes) to quit the City, & some times Impri∣prison them to boot: but if they behave them selves quietely & well, as they ought to doe, they th••n are respected by the people as Gods upon earth; They have a forme of prayer sent them, how they shall pray for the States & Prince of O∣range, nor must they meddell with any other Religion in the Country, because all sorts are Tollerated, at least connived at by the Magistrates; All those called the Presbeterian Ministers or States Clergie are obli∣ged under a forfiture to have done preaching & praying by eleven of the Clock in the forenoone on Son∣dayes, because then the Schepens goe

to the Stathouse, to marry the Jewes Papists & Lutherans & others that may not mary after the Calvinisti∣call forme, & the reason why the States thus marry them first accor∣ding to law, is to render their Children Legitimate, but they may marry againe afterward as they please themselves: none may marry un∣till they have made their appearence at the Stathouse before the Lords, where if the parties be agreed, the Preachers marry the Calvinists, & the Schepens marry all the rest, who differ from the Religion established by Law.

When one dyes the friends dare not burry the Corps until it hath lain three dayes open in the Coffen, that the friends & relations of the deceased may be satisfied that the party hath not been murdered or reported to be dead when alive, after 3 dayes the corps must be brought to the church before the Belceaseth tolling, which is at two

for if you Keepe the body untill half three then the Church dores are lockt & for the first halfe houre must be payd 25 Gilders, & for the second 50, & so untill six, then they may amers you as much as they please.

There are many rich people who make that default on purpose, that they may have solemn occasion of giveing to the Poore, as I Knew once an English merchant did.

The next thing I shall speake of is the method which the States observe in ordering their Maritim affairs, one of the greatest mysteryes in their Goverment; The States Gene∣rally divide their Admiralty into five Courts, which they call Chambers: The first is Rotterdam (which is the chamber called the Mase) which hath the Admirals Flagg.

Then Amsterdam which hath the Vice-Admirals Flagg, & Zealand hath the reare Admiral Flagg, the other two Chambers are those in

North Holland & Friesland: Each of these five Chambers have their Ad∣mirals, Vice Admirals & reare Ad∣mirals apart from the States Ge∣nerals Flaggs, so that when the States have occasion to set out a fleet of an 100 Shipps more or less, every Chamber Knowes the number they must provide for their proportion, tho in regard of its Opulencye Am∣sterdam frequently helps her neigh∣bours & ads two or more Shipps then their share comes to; These Cham∣bers have lately built 36 men of war, & now are building of 7 more and all this is done without noise, every one building their proportion, & they have admirable methods in preserving their Shipps when Built, & their Magazins are in good order every Shipp haveing an appartment to lay up all its Equipage in, & on the Top of their Magazins are Vast Cisterns, which are Kept constantly full of water which have pipes into every appartment to let

down water upon any accident of Fire, & there is in their Magazins a Nursery Roome, where a Woman keeps an Office to feed at certaine houres of the day a great number of Cats, which afterward hunt among the stores for Mice & Ratts; This great Magazine in Amsterdam was built in the tyme of Cromwell in the space of 9 moneths & 14 dayes, in which tyme the Lords of the Admiraltie gave the work∣men drinkgelt as they call it, to in∣courage them to work more then at an ordinary rate. At this tyme the biggest man of war the States had was the Amelia, in which the famous Admiral Trump was Kild, shee was a Ship of no more then 56 Guns, afterward made a fire Ship. But the States quickly discovered their want of great Shipps, and there∣fore built the same yeare 20 men of war, from 50 to 80 Gunns. But the great Shipps built at Amster∣dam had like to have proved of no

use, had not the ingenious Pensionaric de Wit found out a devise to carry them over the Pampus, betwixt those they call Water Shipps;

The Admiralty have an Exellent Method in setting out their Fleets, they neither presse soldiers nor sea∣men, all goe Voluntarie at the bea∣ting of à Drumb, each Captain pro∣viding men & Provisions for his Shipp, who after they have recei∣ved orders from the Lords to the Equipagemaster to Equipe out their Shipps, & receive the Povi∣sions of war, then the States send a board each Shipp a Chaplin, & Check Master, who take care of the provision of war, & see that the seamen have the States allowance & wholesome food, & great care is taken by the Lords that both Cap∣tains & Seamen receive their pay punctually for the tyme they are in the States service, & for the In∣couraging their seamen there is plai∣stred on a Board hanging by the

foremast, the several rewards to such as either take or fire a Flagshipp or take or sinck any other Shipp of the enimies, also what pensions a wounded seaman shal have if maimd or disabled in the States service &c.

The Lords of the Admiralty fol∣low the same methodes which the States General observe, as to their land obligations, & goe throw this great charge by the good manage∣ment of their Credit, for tho it be true that they are indebted great summes of money, yet they never want a supply, nay, Moneyes are often forced upon them by rich Merchants, who send in their moneys and only take the Admyral∣tyes obligations, with which they afterward pay their Customes, when their Shipps arive, at which tyme the Admiralty allowes them Intrest for the tyme they have had their money, & this is it that makes the Admi∣raltyes Obligations more valued then

ready money, for it saves the trou∣ble of telling, & such is the Cre∣dit of the Admiralty that when they have occasion for any Goods, the people strive to furnish them, & rather take their Obligations then money, because they get Intrest; & all other assignments upon the Admiralty are very punctually payd, & without Exchequer Fees, no they are sworne Officers who are for∣bid to receive any moneyes for fees, being contented with the sallary, they have of the States. And their Methodes used at the Custome House for loading or unloading Shipps are very easy, in so much that the Wo∣men Generally have the chargeing & dischargeing the Shipps at the Custome House, which is a great po∣litie in the States to make Trade easy for the Incouragement of the Merchants; And the Admiralty are very Gratefull & Generous unto their Commanders, if any of their Admiralls, or Captains are Kild at

sea & have dove any Considerable service, they then Eternise their memories with lasting Trophies of ho∣nor, as you may see by those State∣ly Monuments of Trump, Ʋpdam, de Ruiter, the Eversons, & others, nor are they sparcing in bestowing large Gifts & Pensions on the Wid∣dowes, & Children of those as have served them faithfully & Valiantly in the wars, whilst the Treacherous & Cowards meet with the severity they deserve; I might here in the next place in large & tel you of the Exellent methodes they have in building & preserveing their Shipps when built, but I shall refer you to that Exellent peece written by the Heer Witsen on that subject. And shall now in the next place say some thing of their famous Company called the East-India Company of the Netherlands, This Company is said to be a Commonwealth within a Commonwealth, & it is true if you consider the Soveraigne Power &

Priviledges they have granted them by the States General, & likewise consider their riches & Vast Num∣ber of subjects, & the many Ter∣ritories & Colonies they possess in the East-Indies, they are said to have 30000 men in constant pay, & above 200 Capital Shipps, besides Sloopes, Catches, & Yachts. This Company hath by their Politick con∣trivances & sedulons Industry pos∣sessed themselves of many Colonies formerly belonging unto the Spaniards, & Portugeeses, & di∣verse Indian Princes, & as good Christians have been at great Charge in Planting the Gospel of Christ in many parts there, Printing in the Indian Language Bibles, & Prayer Bookes & Catechismes, for the Instruction of the Indians, mai∣taineing Ministers & Schoolema∣sters to inform those that are con∣verted to the Christian faith; And now because I have said that this Company is so considerable & as it

were a Commonwealth apart, I will demonstrate it to be so, first by their power, Riches & strength in the Indies, secondly what figure they make in Europe, & this verie briefly, for if I should speake of every particular as to their posessions in the Indies, it would swell into many Volumes, But I will only begin with them at the Cape of de Bonne Esperance where they have built a Royall Fort, in which they maintaine a Garrison of souldiers to defend their Shipps which come there to take in fresh Water; from thence let us take a view of them in the Iland of Java where they have built a faire City called Bat∣tavia & fortified it with Bastions after the Mode of Amsterdam. This City is the place of Residence of their grand Minister of State, called the General of the Indies, he hath allowed him 6 Privie Councellers in Ordinary & 2 extraordinary, These governe the concernes of the Com∣pany

throughout the Indies, & They make peace & war, send ther Ambassadors to all parts thereof, as occasion requireth. This Gene∣ral hath his Guards of Horse & Foot & all sorts of Officers & ser∣vants as if he were a soveraigne Prince, the whole Expence where∣of is defraied out of the Companys stock. This General hath much of the Direction of Bantam and other parts of the Iland of Java: From whence let us take a view of them, in their great possessions in the Moluceas Ilands & those of Banda where they are become so formidable that they looke as if they aimed at the soveraingtye of the Southseas: They have also a great Trade in China & Japan, from whence let us return to the Ilands of Sumatra & on the coast of Bengale, where they have several Lodges; In Persia they have like∣wise great Commerce & are so con∣siderable that they wage war with

that mlghty Monarch if he wrongs them in their trade. They also have several Colonies & Lodges on the coast of Malabar & Cormandel, & in the Country of the Great Magul, & King of Galcanda, But princi∣pally let us behold them in the rich Iland of Zylon where they are Ma∣sters of the plaine Country, so that the Emperor or King of that Iland is forced to live in the Mountains whilst this Company possess the City of Colomba & other the most considerable Garrisons of that I∣land: It is said that the Company hath there in their pay 3600 Soul∣diers, & at least 300 Gunus plan∣ted in their Forts & Garrisons. In a word they are not only masters of the Cinamon, but of all other Spi∣ces except Pepper & that they would also have, had it bin for their In∣trest to Ingrosle, but they wisely fore saw that the English would be a Block in their way, therefore they contented themselves to be masters

the Mace, Cynamon, Cloves and Nutmegs with which they not only serve Europe, but many places in the Indies; I will say no more of them in the Indies, But let us see what figure they make in Europe. And first to begin with them in Am∣sterdam, where they have two large Stately Palaces, one being in the ould part of the City, and the other in the new; In that of the ould part of the City they keep their Court, and there sits the Resident Com∣mittie of the Company, where alsoe they make the sales of the Company goods. There for six yeares the grand Councel or assembly of the 17 doe meet, and after six yeares are expi∣red, the grand Councel of the 17 doe assemble at Middelburg in Zea∣land for two yeares, and then againe returne to Amsterdam: The other lesser Chambers of Delph, Rotter∣dam, Horne and Enchusen never haveing the assembly of the 17 in their Chambers, so that only Am∣sterdam

and Zealand have the ho∣nour of that grand Councel. I will therefore crave leave to describe unto you the Chamber of Amster∣dam, it being the most Considerable of the Chambers, belonging to this famous Company; In there house or Palace within the ould City are many large Offices or appartments, as first on the Lower Floor is their Parlement Chamber, where the 17 doe sit: Next to this Chamber are several faire Chambers for the Com∣mittes to sit in. They have also a Chamber of Audience, where they do receive Princes or Ambassa∣dors, or other great men as have oc∣casion to speak with them. In one of these Chambers are the Armes of several Indian Princes they have Conquered. On the same Floor is their Tresury Office, where their Receivers sit and receive mo∣ney, and pay out the orders or assignments of the Company, Neer to that Chamber sits their grand

Minister the Heer Peter van Dam, who is said to be a Second John de Wit for parts, but he hath not one drop of John de Wits or Lovestine bloud, against the good Prince of Orange; This great minister is a man of Indefaigable Industry and labor night and day in the Com∣panyes service; He reads over twice the great Journal Bookes which come from the Indies, and out of them makes minets to prepare mat∣ters of concerne necessary to be considered by the grand Councel of the 17, and by the Inferiour Com∣mittes of the Company, and pre∣pares Instructions and orders to be sent to their Chief Ministers in the Indies, I could say many more things of his great worth and Virtues, but shall for beare least I should be Judged a flatterer: Overagainst this great Ministers Office sitt in a Chamber many Clarkes or under Secretaryes, who receive from this Minister their Ordrs of dispatches in the affaires of

Company, and next to this Cham∣ber is a Register Office where are kept the Journal bookes of the In∣dies, where you may see the names of al the men, and women that have ever served the Company in the Indies, with the tyme of their death, or departing the Compa∣nyes service; Then next to that is a Councel Chamber where the Re∣siding Chamber or Committe of the Company alwayes sitts Then assen∣ding up staires, there sitt their Book∣holders, who keepe the accounts of all the Transactions of those that buy or sel actions of the Company, and over against this office sitts the Heer Gerbrand Elias who is the se∣cond Advocate of the Company: On this floore are several large Roomes in which are great stores of Packt Goods, and also a Roome with all sorts of Drugs, Tee, and Wax, Ambergreace, and Musk, and on the same floore is a Chamber where the Commissiners sitt who governe,

the Packhouses; And next to them sitt their Clarks who keepe the Re∣gisters of the sales of the Company Goods; And on the same Gallery or Floore is a Chamber where are kept the severall Bookes of Divi∣nitie, printed in the Indian Language that are sent to the several Co∣lonies of the Company: And at the end of this Gallery is a Magazine full of Medicaments and Instru∣ments for Barber Chirurgions Chests, to furnish the Companyes Shipps and Garrisons in the Indies. Then assending up another paire of staires, there are several large Magazins of Nutmegs, Cloves, Mace and Sinamond, and in a long Gallery are many men at work sorting of Spices fitt for sale. Then ascending up another paire of staires there are many Roomes full of Spices, then de∣sending into the Court-yard there is a Guard Chamber where every night the house keeper hath a Watch,

and on the other side of the Gate there is the Chymist, who with his men prepares Medicaments for the Indies; Adjoyning to this Court - yard is their Way∣house and Packhouse for Pepper and Grosle Goods; But before I leave this house in the ould part of the City, I must say some thing of the maner or method used in the Trans∣actions of the Jewes and others, who make a Trade of buyng and selling the Actions of the Company, the which is a great mystery of Iniqui∣tie, and where it inricheth one man, it ruins an hundred. The Jewes are the chiefe in that Trade, and are said to negotiate 17 parts of 20 in the Company; These Actions are bought and sould 4 tymes a day, at 8 in the morning in the Jewes street, at a 11 on the Dam, at twelve and at one a Clock upon the Exchange, and at six in the evening on the Dam, and in the Coledges or Clubs of the Jewes until 12 at midnight, where many

tymes the Crafty Jewes, and others have Contrived to Coine bad newes to make the Actions fall, and good newes to raise them, the which craft of doing at Amsterdam is not taken notice of, which is much to be won∣dered at, in such a wise Government as Amsterdam is, for it is a certaine trueth they many times spread scan∣dalous reports touching the affaires of State, which passe amongst the Ignorant for truth; I shall now in the next place say some thing of their Pallace or Magazine in the new part of the City the which may more pro∣perly be called an Arsenal; It is a building so superb that it lookes more like a Kings Pallace, then a Magazin for Merchants; I have measured the Ground on which this Arsenal stands which I find to be 2000 foot, and square every way, reckoning the Motes, or Burgals, about it; I remember the Ingenious Sr. Joseph Williamsen measured the two Rope-allies by telling the stone

figures in the wal, & found them to be 1800 foot long, the like whereof is not to be seene in the world. On the backside of this Rope-allie lyes a store of 500 Large An∣chors besides small ones; In this Ar∣senal they build the Ships belonging to this Chamber: and here are al sorts of worke houses for the Ar∣tificers that serve the Company. And in a Chamber next to the Joyners Office, is a model of a Ship, they now build their Ships by, which cost 6000 Gilders. When a man beholds the great stores of Tymber, Cordage, and the Pro∣visions of war in their Magazin, a man would think there were enough to furnish a whole Nation; In this Arsenal the Ships unload their Goods layd up in several apartments in the grand Magazin, and after∣ward is removed to the house in the ould part of the City, as their is oc∣casion for sale: In the upper part of this large Pallace sit the saile Ma∣kers

at worke, but on the Lower part of this house is an appartment where the Bewinthebbers assemble upon occasion of Businesse; This Arsenal is not to be seen by stran∣gers without a Ticket from the Bewinthebbers; Now al what I have spoaken of these two houses, or Magazins doth only belong unto the Chamber of Amsterdam; There are yet other Chambers of the Com∣pany, who according to their Quota, or stock in the Company, have the like houses and Magazins, as the Chambers of Zealand, Delph Rotterdam, Horne and Enkusen. And now I have named the six Chambers of which the Company is compo∣sed, I shall say some thing of their constitution, which is from an Octroy, or Act of the States Ge∣neral, by which they have sove∣raign power over their servants in the Indies, yea their Authoritie reacheth their servants in al Terri∣toryes of the States General Do∣nions;

It is Death for any of the States subjects to be Interlopers against this Company, nor may any of what nation soever that lives in any of the Companyes Territories as Burgers or servants, returne into Europe without leave from the Company, only those called Free∣men may depart without askeing leave to remove; The Grand Councel of this Company is the Assembly of the Seventeen, which are Elected out of the several Chambers before named, that is, eight from Amsterdam, and four from Zealand: Delph, Rotterdam, Horne and Enkusen send one a peece, which makes sixteen, and the five lesser Chambers by turns chose the seventeenth. In the Chamber of Amsterdam there are 20 Bewint∣hebbers in ordinary, who are for life, and have 1000 Ducatones a yeare and spices at Christmas, and their travelling charges, when they goe upon the Companyes service.

The next Chamber is Zealand which hath twelve Bewinthebbers, who have about 250 L. a yeare and travelling Charges, and Spices at Christmas; The next is Delph which hath seven Bewinthebbers, who have only 120 L. a yeare and Tra∣velling Charges and Spices at Christmas: The other Chambers of Rotterdam, Horne and Enkhusen have seven Bewinthebbers a peece, and the like sallarie, with tra∣velling Charges and Spices at Christmas, as the Chamber of Delph hath. These Bewinthebbers are Elected or chosen out of those Ad∣venterers called the high Partici∣panten of the Company; They generally chose such as are rich and men of parts, and wisdome, most of them being of the Magi∣stratie of the Country. No man is capable of being Elected a Bewint∣hebber who hath not a 1000 L. stock in the Company. In a word this grand Councel of the Seventeen

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make lawes for the governing the Company, both in India and Europe. It is they that appoint the dayes of Sale and what number of Ships each Chamber must send to the Indies: and likewise order the building of Ships, and all other grand concernes. This Company is worthily Esteemed'a wise, Politique, deserving Company, spareing no cost to get good Intelligence of affaires, sending Messengers and Expresses over land to the East-Indies: They have their Spies and Correspondents in all the considerable Trading parts of the world; They have been so industrious as to gaine the Spice Trade, not only from the Venetians, Spaniards, Portugueses, French, Danes and other Europian nations, but have also Ingrossed all the Spi∣ces, so that, as I tould you before, they sell spices to the Indians them∣selves: but this I must say for them that they are a Generous Company and gratefully paying respectts where

it is due, as lately they have Com∣plemented his Royall highness the Prince of Orange with an Annuall summe out of the profits of their Company, to make him their, friend and Protector. Neyther are they backward in bestowing pre∣sents upon strangers that have obli∣ged them, as I could instance in some of our own Nation: They are also very charitable to the Poore giveing them the 1000th Gilder of all the goods they sell; And to all the reformed Ministers in Amsterdam they send Spices at Christmas, to pray every Sonday for the welfare and prosperitye of the Companie is a Buekler and defence for the Commonwealth upon all urgent occasions: and truly our English East-India Company might be the same to our King, if the Differences between the two Com∣panyes were composed: Especially now they have such a great King to protect them, and that the Interlo∣pers

are distroyed. And now it is hightyme I should tell you the me∣thodes a stranger must take if he hath occasion to Keep house in Amster∣dam: If a man will hyer an house, he must take a lease upon seald pa∣per, for which you must pay a Tax to the States, and pay the Broaker that makes the bargen, but before you can buy a house you must be in a capacitie to be made a Burger. To this purpose it is usuall to take with you to the Stathouse your Broaker or any two Securityes, and there before the Burgemasters take the oath of Burgerschap, which is to be faithfull to the City, to the Magistrates and Goverment &c. but if you buy either Land or Hou∣ses, and lodge privately you will find your case much worse, Then you must pay a Legion of Taxes to the mils that draine your Lands, and for maintaining the Banks and Sluces, and if the States have oc∣casion

to build a Fortification on your Lands, or to drownd them in the tyme of warre, you must be contented with the States Termes, and if your house or houses stand Empty without Tenents, yet you must pay the States Taxes on that house or houses; Thus much for the method how you are to be ad∣vanced to be a Burger of Amster∣dam, and to give you a tast what you are to pay for houses or Land, if you settel there, and if you have either purchased or hyred an house then comes an Officer from the Stathouse with a printed seald paper, who tels you, you must pay as followeth: first a pole tax for every male and female servant in the house above 8 yares old, six Gilders a yeare.

For a Coach if you keepe one 75 Gilders a yeare.

For a Coach without wheeles 50 Gilders a yeare.

For sope as the Number of the familie is:

The like for salt:

For wyne as your Qualitie is:

To the Rattel watch as your house is in Greatnes.

To the Lanthornes as the large∣nes of the house is.

For Butter every 20 pound seven stivers.

For Beens halse as much as you pay for the beens.

For Turff every Tun five stivers.

For every 20 Gilders in wood six Gilders.

For Flesh the Tax often changeth.

There is also a Tax on the Bread.

Then there is a Tax called the 200ste penny, and a Tax called the 8th: then there are many Taxes in Trade, as that no man can weigh or measure out his owne Goods if sould in grosse, but the States Officers must doe it, Then the States have a Tax called the Ver∣pounding on all Lands and Houses in their Dominious: Then they have a Tax on sealdpaper, and a Tax for

Registering Lands or houses, like∣wise a Tax on Cowes, Horses, Calues, and all sort of Fruit. There are many other Taxes I could name, as a stiver for every man that goes out or into any City after the houer of shutting the Ports, also you pay for going over som Bridges, and passing thro Gates called Tolhek, a stiver for every persons, but Coaches, Wagons or Horses pay more; These I have already named, you will say, are to many, yet I may not forget to tell you, that Milke first payes as Milke, and again if it be made Butter yea the Buttermilke, and whay payes a Tax likewise, for all which a man would think that a people that stand so much upon maintaining of their liberty should Mutinie and refuse payment. But this seldome happens, and if it doth the States punish them very severely. I remember that in my tyme there was a mutinie at Sar∣dam about paying a new Tax,

whereupon the States sent a Regi∣ment of their Souldiers, and seased the heads of the Mutiniers and hanged up 5 or six of them at the Townes end, and severely whipt 8 under the Gallowes; And in the rich City of Amsterdam if any re∣fuse to pay their Tax, the Magi∣strates send their Officer to pull of their Dores, and if they remaine long obstinate, they send and fetch away the lower Windowes of their house, and they dare not put up others, until they have payd the Taxes; Howerer this is observable that if any man will sweare he is not worth what he is taxed at, then he is free: but there are many so proud, that they will not let the world Know their Condition, I Knew a Mer∣chant named Ornia, who payd du∣ring the war for his 200ste penny and other Taxes for his and his wives Children, (haveing had two rich wives) 14000 pound sterlyng: I also knew an English Anabaptist Mer∣chant

who tould Mr. Envoye Sid∣ney in my presence, that he had payd neare 4000 L. sterlyng to the war, and yet the same man did Grum∣ble to pay his Majesties Consul a pit∣tyfull fee or Consulat money on his Ships: the reason whereof I once asked him, who answered me that the King could not raise a penny in England without his Parlement, and therefore much less, could he doe it in the States Country: Thus these Phanaticks had rather make bricks without straw, then pay the least tribut to their Naturall Princes Officer: should wee in England be obliged to pay the Taxes that are here imposed, there would be Re∣bellion, upon Rebellion: and yet after all that is here payd no man may bake his owne bread, or grind his owne corne, or brew his beere, nor dare any man keepe in his house a hand Mil, althought it be but to grind Mustard or Coffy. I remem∣ber one Mis Guyn a Coffy woman

at Rotterdam had like to have been ruined for grinding hir owne Coffy, had not Sir Lyonel Jenkins em∣ployed his Secretary Doctor Wyn to intreat the States on her behalfe, and it was reckoned a grand favor that shee was only find, and not banished the City, and forfiture made of all her Goods; I remem∣ber also a Landlord of mine in Lay∣den bought a live Pig in the market and Innocently brough it home, and Kild it, for which he had like to have been ruinated, because he did not frist send to the accisemen to accise it, and also let the Visitors see that the Pig was free from deseases At an other time a wyne Merchant comeing to give me a Visit, tould me that he had the rarest Rhinish in the City, and that if I would send my maid to his Cellar with six Bottels they should be fild: where∣upon I sent the maid only with two bottels, and charged her to hide them under her apron, but

such was her misfortune that the Scouts Dienaers met her and seized her and her bottels, and caryed her to Prison, which cost the Wyne Merchant 1500 Gilders, and had it not bin for the strongest solicita∣tions made by us, he had bin ruined: so sacred are Taxes here and must so exactly be payd. And were they not here so precise, it were Im∣possible for so smal a Country to subsist: And therefore you may heare the Inhabitants generally say, that what they suffer is for their Vaderland, hence the meanest among them are content to pay what is layd on them, for they say all what is the Vaderlands is ours the men of war are theirs, the sum∣ptuous Magazins, Bridges and every thing what is the Vaderlands. And indeed in a sense it is so for they have this to Comfort them, that if it please God to Visit them with Poverty, they and their Children have the publick purse to maintaine

them, and this is one maine reason why they so willingly pay their Taxes as they doe, for theres not a soule borne in the States Dominions that wants warme Cloathes and Dyet; and good lodging, if they make their case knowne to the Magi∣strates; and for the Vagabonds that rove up and downe the streets, they are either Walons or other strangers as pretend to have bin ruinated by the late wars. I shall now in the next place let you know how Exellently the laws are here executed against Fraud and periury, and the Intention of Murders, which lawes were once much used in England, as you shall heare hereafter when I speake of the Duke of Brandenburgs Court. I shall here Instance a few particullars that hapened in my tyme: There was a Spark that made false assignments on the Admiralty, who tho related to many of the Magistrates of Amster∣dam, had his head cut of; and an∣other who was a Clark in the Mer∣chants

bank, who made false posts in their Bookes, and had his head also cut of, and all the Portions he had given with his Daughters, the Hus∣bands were forced to pay back, and all his houses and Goods were sould at his dore in the open streets; I knew a french Marquis who swore his Regiment was Compleat, and when the States knew that he had not halfe his Regiment, he likewise had his head cut of in the Prison in the Hague. I also knew a french Paeda∣gogue a Runagado Monk who designed to have murdred his master Major Cavellio, and his two pu∣pils young Children of the Majors, and afterward to set the house afire to couler the murder, he had his head Cut of and set upon a Post with his body on a Wheele neare the Hague; I could name you two others Cheaters, who were severely whipt under the Gallowes: and two under Farmers who designed to run away with the States money.

The Cheat of breakeing with •• full hand is not so frequent in Hol∣land as in England (where some use it as a way to Slip out of Business and then to live conveniently after∣ward upon the Estates of other men because in Holland they are more severely punished when discovered, then in England: as on the contrary those that fall to decay throw losses and unavoidable accidents which they could not prevent, find a more speedy and easie way of Compoun∣ding and finishing matters with their Creditours if they be over strickt, then the Custome or law of En∣gland doth aford, for the suing out of Statuts of Bankrupts in England doth prouve many tymes fo pernitious both to Creditour and Debtor throw the tediousnes of the proceedings and the expensivenes of Executing the Commissions, that what by Commissioners fees, Treatises and other incident charges, the Creditours are put to such Expen∣ces

as to be uterly disappointed of their Debt, and the Poore Debtors for ever ruinated and undone; I shall therefore in this place give a short relation of the method used in Amsterdam in the case of Ban∣krupts, which perhaps may be taken notice of by our King and Parle∣ment for the preventing disorders and sad abuses that dayly hapen in Executing the Statutes of Bankrupts; The Magistrates of Amsterdam everie yeare name Commissioners for Bankrupts, out of those that make up a Judicature, like to our courts of Aldermen in London; These meet certaine dayes in the weeke in a distinct Chamber in the Stathouse over whose doore is cut in marble the Emblem of Fortune flying away with wings, and round chests turnd up side down, with mice and Ratts eateing the money Baggs, Pens, Inkhornes and Paperbookes. There they receive Petitions from Debtors and Creditours, and as occa∣sion

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requireth summon the partyes to appeare before them, and to lay open the true State of the matter: This done they either by authoritie seaze the Bankrupts Books and Ef∣fects, or Else without any stir and noise leave all remaining in the Debtors houses, and send thither two Committes to examine the Bookes, and make an inventorie of the Estate; with power to compose the matter, without giveing much trouble to the parties. If the Co∣missioners find that the Debtor is come to decay by unexpected losses and unavoidable accidents, to which he did not at all contribute, it is their usuall way to propose to the Creditour such amicable and easy termes, as the poore man may be able to performe, alotting some tymes the halse of the Estate left to the Debtor, some tymes a third part, and some tymes perswading the Crediteurs to advance to the poore man a sum of mony to help him up

againe in Trade, upon condition that he do oblige himselfe to pay the Creditours all he oweth them, when God shall be pleased to make him able; but on the Contrary if the Commissioners find that a Trader hath dealt Knavishly and broaken with a designe to defraud and cheat his Creditours, as if it appeare that a Bankrupt hath kept false bookes, and counterfitted bills of Exchange, Bills of Loading, or pretended Commissions from forraigne parts; In such a case they are very severe and not only seaze all the Bookes and Effects of the Bankrupt, but also Imprison him, and also punish him Corporally, and if the cheat be of an haynous nature, sentence him somtime to death, whereas if the Debtor be only unfortunate and no wayes knaveish, then the Commis∣saries use all the Power they have to force the Creditours to accept the Poore mans termes, the which is better for the Creditours then to

use the Rigor of the law, in com∣mitting the Poore man to Prison, seeing in that case the Creditours must maintaine him in Prison ac∣cording to his quality, where if he lyes a certaine tyme, and the Cre∣ditours be not able to prove the Prisoner hath an Estate, then the Debtor is admitted to his oath to sweare he is not worth 40 Gilders besides his weareing Cloathes, and working Tooles, and then he is sett at libertie, but in the mean time let the Prisoner have a care not to make a false Oath, for then he is punished without mercy, an In∣stance of which hapened in my tyme.

The States haveing admitted a certaine Few to come and make such an Oath before them, were at the same tyme Informed by the Goaler that this Few had been seen throw the chinks of the Doore, quil∣ting Ducats of Gould and some Dia∣mons in his Cloathes, to the Value of 5000 Gilders The States here∣upon

admonished the Few to take heed to what he was about to sweare, because the law was very strickt against such as made false oathes before them, and at the same tyme caused the oath and the Law to be read unto him, nevertheless the Few offered to take the oath, but the Lords not suffering him to sweare, because then he must dye by Law, caused him to be taken out into another room and searched, where they found about him the Ducats and Diamonts: this being tould the Lords they sent for him in, and then Sentenced him to have 60 lashes under the Gallowes and to be banished the Country, yet because the Few had many Chil∣dren, they gave a 3^d part of what was taken about him to his wife and Children, and a third to the Poore, and the other 3^d to the Creditours, which was enough to pay them their Debt; These Com∣missiorers are payd by the States and

have not a doit from Debtors, or Creditours for all what they doe. These Commissioners are also much to be commended for their ready∣nes to doe good Offices to those Poore Merchants, Who haveing lived honestly, are brought to decay by losses and Crosses in their Trade: who when they find any such so Poore that they can neither pay their Creditours, nor maintaine the charge of their Families, it is their constant Custome, to take their Children from them, and maintaine and bring them up in their Hospitalls, yea often also soliciting the Burgemasters on their behalfe to bestow some smal Office upon them for their Reliefe, and Sub∣sistance; And here I must not omitt to aquaint you, that as the Com∣pounding of matters in Holland betwixt Debtor and Creditour so as hath been said, is very easy and equitable, so is also thier way or method of sueing for Debts very

favorable, which is after this maner, In the first place a note or summons is left at the Debtors house, and if he nectlect to appeare, a second sum∣mons is sent, but then if he neither appeare himselfe, or send his Proctor, the sheriffs order an arrest against him, and at last when he it brought before them, if the matter be dif∣ficult it is referred to two or three Goodmen of the City, and tyme given him, but if the plaintiff make Oath that he apprehends the Debtor hath a designe to run away, then must the Prisoner either give baile or return to Prison. It is a remark that I have made in my Travells, that excepting France and Flanders I never saw in any Prison above 40 Prisoners for debt at one tyme, and in some great Townes as in Harlem and other, some tymes not one; And the reason hereof is plaine, for you cannot lay a man in Prison for an Action or debt, small, or great, but you must maintaine

the Prisoner, so that many tymes the charges exceed the principall Debt, and after all the Prisoner can free himselfe; Whereas the Cu∣stome in England encouraged by those Varlets the Pettyfogers and Catchpoles of turning a man into Prison for a Crowne, or it may be for nothing at all, if he connot find Bail, he may lye and starve there, is an abominable abuse, as also that of suborning false Witnesses, to much in use in England, which is Ex∣tremely cried out against Beyond sea. And now because I am Speakeing of Pettyfogers, give me leave to tell you a story I mett with when I lived in Rome, goeing with a Ro∣mane to see some Antiquityes, he shewed me a Chapell dedicated to one St Evona a Lawyer of Brittanie who he said came to Rome to En∣treat the Pope to give the Lawyers of Brittanie a Patron, to which the Pope replyed that he knew of no Saint but what was disposed of to

other Professions, at which Evona was very sad and earnestly begd of the Pope to think of one for them: At the last the Pope proposed to St Evona that he should goe round the Church of St. John de Latera blind fould, and after he had said so many Ave Marias, that the first Saint he layd hold of, should be his Patron, which the good old Lawyer wil∣lingly undertook, and at the end of his Ave Maryes, he stopt at St. Michels Altar, where he layd hold of the Divell, under St. Michels feet, and cryd out, this is our Saint, let him be our Patron, so beeing unblindfolded and seeing what a Patron he had chosen, he went to his Lodgings so dejected, that in few moneths after he die'd and co∣ming to heavens Gates knockt hard, whereupon St Peoter asked who it was that knockt so bouldly, he replyed, that he was St. Evona the Advo∣cate, Away, away said St. Peter here is but one Advocate in heaven,

here is no roome for you Lawyers, O but said St. Evona, I am that honest lawyer who never tooke fees on both sides, or ever pleaded in a bad Cause, nor did I ever set my Naibours together by the Eares, or lived by the sins of the people; well then said St. Peter, come in; This newes comeing downe to Rome a witty Poet writ upon St. Evonas Tomb these words: St. Evona un Briton, Advocat non Larron, Ha∣leluiah. This Story put me in mind of Ben: Johnson goeing throw a Church in Surry, seeing Poore people weeping over a Grave, asked one of the women why they wept, Oh said shee, we have lost our pre∣tious Lawyer, Justice Randall, he kept us all in peace, and always was so good as to keep us from goeing to law, the best man ever lived, well said Ben Johnson I will send you an Epitaph to write upon his Tomb, which was,

God works wonders now and than, Here lyes a Lawyer an honest-man.

And trully old Ben: was in the right, for in my tyme I have obser∣ved some Gentlemen of that pro∣fession that have not Acted like St. Evona, or Justice Randal, I wil say no more of them, but wish them as great fees, and as much en∣couragement as the Lawyers have in Switserland.

I now come to speake some thing of the three Taxes I mentioned in the former part of my remarques on Taxes, of which the first ought rather to be called an usefull and publique invention, like to that of the Insurance Office in London, then a publick Tax, seeing no man needs contribute to it unless they please, and find his profit by it, but the other may be called Taxes because the subjects are obliged to

submit to them, but then they are so easy, that what the Publick gets thereby not only lessons Ex∣traordinary subsidies, which many tymes occasions clamour, when be∣cause of their raritie and the ur∣gencie of occasions, they must needs be great.

Yet it is sufficently compensated by the advantage and securitie in the Estates which private persons, who are obliged to pay it, reape thereby dayly; I am confident that if the King and Parlement thought fit to introduce some or all three of these taxes into England, the publick charge of Goverment might be defrayed with more ease and with less repining and clamour, then when it must be done by new and high Impositions, how ever our Governers are the proper Judges of that.

The first then is an House called the merchants Bank which is gover∣ned by diverse Commissioners,

Clarks and Booke keepers, like∣wise a Essaymaster who Judgeth of the Gould and Silver, that at any tyme is brought into the Bank un∣coyned, the security given for pre∣servation thereof, are the States and Magistrates of Amsterdam. Now if you have a mind to put money into the Bank, suppose a 1000 L. less or more, you must goe to the Clarks and ask a folio for your name, and then pay in your money at three or foure per cent according as the rate of the Bank money is high or low, or you may buy it of those called Cashiers or Broakers: then get the Clarks to set downe in the folio what you bring in, haveing done so you may draw this summe, or sell it in what parcels you please, but then if you let your money lye seven yeares in the Bank, you receive no Intrest for the same. If you aske where then is the advantage for the Merchants? I answer first you have your money ready at all tymes for answering

bills of Exchange, and making other payments: you are at no charge for baggs or portage, at no loss by false tale or bad money, in no danger of Thieves or unfaithfull servants, or fire, and above all you have the accounts of your cash most punctually and Justly kept without any trouble or runing the risk of Gouldsmith or Cashieres breaking in your Debt; for such is their care that twice a yeare, or some tymes oftner they shut up the Bank for 14 dayes, and then all that have con∣cerns therein must bring in their accounts to the Clarkes, who a few dayes after, haveing viewed the Bookes, aquaint such as have brought in wrong accounts with their mis∣takes, desiring them to returne to their bookes, and rectifie their Er∣ror, not telling them wherein the mistake lyes, so that I have knowne Merchants, in my tyme sent back three or foure tymes, with their wrong accounts: but if they begin

to grow Impatient and say that they will stand to their accounts, then they pay a mulct to the Clarkes upon their Covincing them of their mis∣takes, either by chargeing to much upon the Bank, or forgetting or omitting what was their due. I knew two Merchants, who haveing for gott the one 750 L. and the other 220 L. in their accounts, were honestly rectified by the Clarkes, so that they susstained no loss; be∣sides this care of the Clarkes in keeping and Stating the accounts, the bank is obliged for five L. a yeare to send to every Merchant, that desires it, their accounts every morning before Exchange tyme, of the moneyes written of by them in the Bank the day before upon any Merchants account, and what summes are written of by others upon their accounts: so that the Merchants may compare the Banks notes with their bookes and so save much of the charges of Booke kee∣ping;

Now if it be objected that though this be an advantage to the Mer∣chants, yet what can the Publick gaine thereby, seeing the Charges of paying Officers, Clarks &c. must needs be very considerable? I an∣swer, that indeed it is a mystery to those who understand not the thing, but if it were once known and practised, the advantage of it would appeare; For among other things which might be said, The Ma∣gistrates of the Citty take out of the Merchants Bank a Sufficent stock of money to supply the Lumbert, a Banck that Lends out money, and is Governed by 4 Commissioners cho∣sen out of the Magistrates, who sitt in Court every day in the Lumbert, which is a large pile of Building 3••0 foot long, containing several Cham∣bers and magazines under one Roof, in these several Chambers the Com∣missioners have Officers sitting to lend money upon all sorts of Goods even from a paires of shooes to the ri∣chest

Jewell &c. This is a great con∣venicence for Poore people, yea for Merchants also, who some tymes may want money to pay a bill of Ex∣change, and prevents the Cheatting and Extraordinary Extortion used by the Pawne brokers in England, France and other Countryes. And besides the Poore have their Pawns safely and well preserved, neither are they punctually sould when the yeare is out or denied under the pretext of being mislaid, as the Poore are of∣ten tymes served by the wicked Pawn broakers. There is also another convenience in this Lumbert viz, an Exellent way they have of discovering Thieves, and the stollen goods; They publish two generall open sales of the Goods pawnd twice a yeare, that such as will, may redeeme their goods and paying the Intrest may have them although the time be relapsed. Thus much as to the Lumbert. I was once according to my duty to waite

upon our present King at the Bank of Merchants, where shewing his Majestie the way of keeping the Journall Book of the Bank which is of a prodigious bigness, his Majestie was Extreamly pleased with the Contrivance of preserveing it from fire; saying that the course they tooke might be of great use for the preserving Patents and the deeds of Noblemens Estates; This con∣trivance which perhaps may be thought usefull or imitable, I shall therefore discribe it, It is a large firestone shaped like a Chest, and set upright in a stone wall having a large brass doore of a Vast thicknes with flops to fall over and Cover the Lock and Hinges, into this chest the Booke is drawn upon Rouls, it being of such a Bulk and waight as cannot be handed in by a man, and there it is so securely preserved that al∣though the house should be burnt, the Booke in al probabilitie would be safe; Should I here give an

account of the Vast summes of money that dayly are written of in this Bank, I might probably be thought to speake at Random, but this I may bouldly affirme that it farr Exceeds all the Bankes in Eu∣rope, both for Riches and Business, and their Credit is such that the Italians, French, Germans and En∣glish have great summes in the same, neither was ever any man refused his money in the worst of times.

A second Tax is what ariseth from the just and laudable Esta∣blishment of a Register, A Tax which I think most men will be willing to submit to, Except such as designe to cheat and defraud their Naibours, and live by such like sins and Confusion, and for the most part die with the curse of the people; This Register in Holland begitts such assurance and Safetie in deal∣ling, that in purchasing of houses or land, a Childe tho overreached in the Value yet cannot be cheated

as to the title: The methodes of which Register. I have by me for the use of our King and Parlement when they please to Command it.

The third and last Tax is that of sealed paper as it is practised in Hol∣land. The Method of which I likewise keep by me for his Maiestie and Parlements Commands. There are many other things might be spo∣ken, as to the Government of Am∣sterdam, but I may not tyre your patience. However one considera∣ble thing I would not passe by touching the Melitia; There are in Amsterdam 60 Com∣panyes of Foot, the least of them haveing 200 men, some 300, which in a modest account, amounts, at least to 15000 men, in which number neither Jews nor Anabaptists who carry no Armes are reckned, only they are obliged to Con∣tribute to the maintenance of the 1400 Souldiers who are kept in Con∣stant pay, as a Guard for the Citty,

and towards the night watch or Ra∣telwatch, who walke the streets the whole night to keepe good Orders, and tell us every halfe houre what a Clock it is. There are also upon every Church Tower, Trumpetters who sound every halfe houre, and if any fire breakes out in the Citty they give a Signall on which side of the Citty the fire is, and ring the Firebell, and they have Exellent wayes on a suddain in such sad acci∣dents to Quench Fire: but I may not inlarge any longer, but hasten out of Holland. And yet before I leave Amsterdam I must vindicate her from a malitious aspersion cast upon her by the Ignorant, they accuse her to have very rudely and un∣civilly affrouted the Duke of York beeing there. Anno 1681 All which is very false, True the English Phanaticks of Amsterdam were so malitiously wicked as to spread se∣verall lyes of his Sacred Person, and stird up the Canalie as much

as they could to affront his High∣nes, but as for the Magistrates they payd him verie great respects: first sending me to the Hague to know what day his Highnes would please to honor their Citty with his pre∣sence, that thereby they might be prepared to receive his Royall per∣son with all the honor emaginable, being resolved to Treat his Highnes in their Stathouse, and that the Burgers should be in their Armes, also giveing out orders for Coaches and the Admiraltys Yagts to attend his Highnes, when ever he pleased to come, but his Highnes by Collonel werden let me know that I should attend the Burgemasters, and thank them for their kind presentation, but his Highnes was resolved to see theit Citty incognito and therefore desired the Burgemasters not to put themselves to any maner of Trou∣ble; Notwithslanding the Magi∣strates Commanded their Yatchts to lye ready the halfeway Harlem,

and Vice Admiral de Ruiter, Dirick Tulp, and others went out in their Coaches to meet his Highnes, and conduct him into the Citty, at which tyme our English Phanaticks Espe∣cially those called Monmouths twelve Apostels did all that they could to stir up the rude mul∣titude to affront his Highnes, crying out to them, This is he that brought the last war upon you, and with his Jesuits would cut all the Protestants Throats; But the next day after his Highnes was com into the Citty Burgemaster Valkenier the great Solon of Amsterdam, sent for me and tould me that although the Burgemasters which are the Sove∣raignes of the City give no Visits to strange Princes, unless they be Crouned heads, yet said he I have a great Ambition to pay a Visit to the Duke of York, upon severall respects, first as being the brother of so great a King, and as he is our Statholders Ʋnckell and Father in

law, and therefore said he you shall procure me Audience in the priva∣test maner imaginable: for I designe to goe with you to him without so much as a footman attending me; here upon I waitted upon the Earle of Peterborow and Collonel Werden and Collonel Porter to desire them to aquaint his Highnes with the Bur∣gemastrs designe, whereupon his Highnes turnd to me, and said Mr. Carr when the Burgemaster pleaseth, whereupon I went im∣mediately to the Burgemaster and attended him to his Highnes quar∣ters, the newes whereof comeing to the Cittizens, they gathered together in great Multitudes to see whether this great man their Petty God did humble himself so far, as to pay a Visit to his Highnes, where∣as the other Burgemasters only sent a Secretary and one of there Pensionaries to Visit the Duke of Monmouth, and all Ambassadors have no other Complement but by Se∣cretaries

or Pensionaries; After the Burgemaster had had a long houres Audience with the Duke in a Roome a part, I attended the Burgemaster to his Daughter Pelicorns house, the which was neare his Highnes Lodgings, for the Tumult of the Burgers was so great, that the Bur∣gemaster did not care to pas by them, and being come into his daughters Parler, he began to speake to me after this maner, Sir, I never in all my life met with a Prince so generally Experienced in all things, a Prince that hath far penetrated into the affaires of Europe, and hath the right measures of the present State of our Coun∣try, and discourses as if he sate in our Councell, but above all I was mightly pleased to heare him declare himselfe so freely touching Liberty of Conscience commending the wisdome of our State in Opening their Gates to all tender Conscien∣ces, and that is it, said his Highnes,

that makes you so considerable and enticeth the Rich Merchants of other places to come & live amongst you, whereas the folly of the Spanish Inquisition hunts away the chiefest of their Traders the Jewes and others; For my part said his Highnes, I never was for oppressing tender Con∣sciences in England: for nothing more disturbs the peace and quiet thereof then forceing men by Penal Lawes to become all of one Religion; To conclude, said the Burgemaster do but, Remark this one thing and remember it, if you outlive me, viz, that if ever this great Prince come to be King of England he will alter all the Measures of Europe, and possiblie become the Arbiter thereof: After which discourse the Burgemaster said let me now pre∣sent you, mijn Heer Consul. with a Glasse of Rhenish wyne to his Highnes health, and pray when you have an Opportunitie to speake with his Highnes, assure him that he hath

in Amsterdam a true and faithfull freind, and moreover he said, when I speake next with our Stat∣holder the Prince of Orange, and our Pensionarie Fagel, I will doe his Highnes Justice; and thus wee parted: but the civil deportment of this Burgemaster was not all, for other great ones of the Citty did their part also, as Vice-Admiral de Ruiter, with at least 30 Captains of the Ad∣miralty Chamber of Amsterdam attended his Highnes to shew him the Men of warr and Magazins of the Admiralty: likewise Sir Dirick Tulp and the Heer Peter van Dam and others the Bewinthebbers of the East-India Company attended his Highnes to the East-Indie House, where was spread a Banquet of Sweetmeats, and rich Wines, and they offered his Highnes a present, but his highnes would not accept of any, only two large Bookes in which were Painted all the Beasts, Fishes, and Foules, and likewise

all the Plants, Flowers, and Fruites of the East-Indies, and because his Highnes had tasted the Mum in the East-Indie Magazine, and liked it, the Company caused twelve Caskes, to be neatly hoopt, and gave me them to be sent after his Highnes to Brussels; And I know it was the resolution of the Bewint∣hebbers to have spared no cost if his Highnes would have accepted of a Treat in their house, by all which you see that the Magistrates and chiefe men in Amsterdam were not guilty of Rudenes to his Highnes, but it was the Canalie. And now haveing said so much good of the States Government, and of Amsterdam in particular, it will not be amisse to take notice of some Bad customes and practises now in vogue in Holland, and leave it to the reader to Judge what they may portend; There are tollerated in the Citty of Amsterdam, amongst other abu∣ses, at least 50 Musick houses, where

lewd Persons of both sexs meet and practise their villanies. There is also a place called the Longseller a Tol∣lerated Exchange or publick meeting house for whores and Rogues to Rendevous in, and make their filthy Bargains: This Exchange is open from six a clock afterdinner untill nine at night; Every whore must pay three stivers at the dore for her entrance or admission; I confess the Ministers preach and exclaim from the pulpit against this horrible abuse, but who they be that Protect them I know not, yet I have heard some plead for the tol∣leration of these wicked meetings upon pretext, that when the East-India fleets come home, the Seamen are so mad for women, that if they had not such houses to bait in, they would force the verie Cit∣tyzens wives and Daughters: but it is well known that as money does coun∣tenance, so Discipline might sup∣press that abuse. The ould severe

and frugall way of Liveing is now allmost quite out of Date in Hol∣land, there is very littell to be seene of that sober modestie in Apparell, Diet, and habitations as formerly: In stead of Convenient Dwellings the Hollanders now build Stately palaces, have their delightfull Gar∣dens, and houses of pleasure, keep Coaches, waggons and sleas, have very rich furniture for their horses with Trappings adorned with silver Bells, I have seen the Vanitie of a Vintners sonne, who had the bos∣ses of the bit and Trapping of his horse of pure silver, his footman and Coachman having silver fringd Gloves; yea so much is the humour of the women altered and of their Children also that no Apparel can now serve them but the best and richest, that France and other Coun∣tryes affoards, and their sonns are so much adicted to play, that many fa∣milies in Amsterdam are ruined by it not that England is lesse Extra∣vagant

then the Duch, who as I said before got such great Estates by their frugalitie, whilest they were not addicted to such prodigalitie and wantoneste as the English are, whose excesse I can not excuse, neverthe∣lesse the grave and sober people of Holland are very sensible of the great alteration that now is in their Country, and as they say Paracelsus used to cure his patients of their dis∣ease with a full belly, so a good Burgemaster desirous to convince his Amsterdammers of their dissolute kind of life, invited the Thirty six Magistrates and their wives to a feast: who being come and the La∣dyes big with Expectation of some rare and Extraordinary Entertain∣ment, sat down at table; where the first course was Buttermilk boild with Appells, Stockfish, Buttered Turnips and Carrots, lettice Salade and red Herrings, & only smale beare without any Wyne; At this the Ladies startled and began to whisper

to their husbands, that they Ex∣pected no such Entertainement, but upon removeing of the Dishes and plates they found underneath printed verses Importing that after that manner of liveing they began to thrive, & had inlarged their Citty.

The second course consisted of Bocke de kooks, quarters of Lamb, rosted Rabits and a sort of pudding they cal a Brother here they had Dorts and English beare with French wyne yet all this did not please the dainty Dames: but upon removing away the plates another Dish of poetrie appeared, which acquainted them that after that modest and sober way of Liveing, they might keep what they had gott, and lay up some thing for their Children.

Then comes in the third course made up of all the rarities of the season, as Patridges, Pheseants and all sorts of foule and English pa∣sties, with plenty of Rinish and other sorts of wyne, to moisten them,

this put the ladyes in a frolick and Jolly humour, but under their plates was found the use and Application in verses, telling them that to feed after that manner was Voluptuous and Luxurious, and would Impaire their health and wast their Estates, make them neglect their Trade, and so in Tyme reduce their Stately and new built flourishing Citty to their ould fishing towne againe. After this was brought in a Banquet of all sorts of sweet meats piled up in pi∣ramides and delicate fruite with plen∣ty of delitious wynes, and to con∣clude all a set of Musick and mas∣kers who danced with the young Ladyes; but at parting like the hand writing to Belteshazzar upon the wall, every one had a printed paper of moralities put into their hand shewing them the causes of the ruine of the Roman Commonwealth, according to that of the Poët.

Nullum crimen abest, facinusque libidinis exquo, Paupertas Romana perit.

with an Exellent aduice to them that if they did not quit the Buffoneries and apish modes of the French, and returne to the Simplicitie, plaine∣ness and modestie of their Ancestors and founders, their Common∣wealth could not long last; but all the thanks the good ould Burge∣master had for his kind and Charg∣able Entertainement in thus feasting his Countrymen, was to be floutted at, and pasquild, The sparkes of Amsterdam saying in all places, that the ould man being now past the yeares of pleasure himselfe, would have none others to take theirs; And here I shall put a pe∣riod to what I thought fitt to ob∣serve of the States of the Ʋnited Provinces only I will beg leave, to say something to the Hollander by way of advise viz, That now they are in a

prosperous condition, Rich and at ease, They would looke back and re∣member what God in his Infinite goodnes & mercy did for them in the dayes of their greatest calamities; for my owne part I cannot but ad∣mire the great providence of God in preserveing them from being devoured by their many Enimies they had in the last warr, besides their enimies at home, some of which particulars as they then hap∣pened, give me leave to relate. At the tyme when the French came to Inuade the Territoryes of the States General, it then looked as if God had markd out the way for the French to March, by sending such a won∣derfull drye season that the Rivers of the Rhine, Beta, Wall, and other Rivers were fordable, so that the French only waded throw, and became so Victtorious, that in a little space of tyme (what by the Treasons of some, and the Igno∣rance, and cowardise of others In∣trusted

with the Militia, and Garri∣sons) the French became Masters of above 40 Cittyes and Garrisons, at which tyme there was nothing to be heard of in the States Domi∣nions but confusion and miserie, even in the strong and rich Citty of Amsterdam it self, who at this tyme beheld the French Armie like a mighty Torrent comeing within sight of the Citty, and at the same tyme wanting water in their Ca∣nalls, and Burgwalls to ply their Sluces, and such was the scarcity of Raine that a payle of fresh water was worth 6 pence; Thus heaven see∣med to frowne on them as well as the French Armie, by the shutting up as it were the Conduits of Heaven, and yet a worse thing had like to have fallen out, for at the same tyme the Divisions grew so high amongst the Magistrates in the Stathouse, that it was putting to the Question wheather or no they should not goe and meet the French King with

the Keyes of their Citty, to save it from fire, and Plunder, now nothing in all probabilitie could save this rich Citty from falling into the hands of the French, but an immediate hand from Heaven, and it had undoubtedly come to passe, had not providence caused the French to make a stand at Muyden, two howers from Am∣sterdam, at what time the Valiant Roman of Amsterdam Scout Has∣selaer like a true father of his Country opposed the French party in the Councell, calling out to the Burgers from the Stathouse to take Courage and rather choose to dye like old Battavians with their swords in their hands, then tamely and Treacherously to yeald up their Cit∣ty to the mercy of the French, as some of the Magestrates were about to doe, this so Incouraged the Bur∣gers that with great Courage they mand' the walls, and heaven then assisting them with a suden and plenty

full raine, that they plyd their sluces, and drouned the Lands round the Citty 3 and 4 foot high, in some places, which caused the Victorious French Armie to make a quick re∣treat, as farr as Utrick, else the Mon∣sieur had payd deare for seeing of Amsterdam; Thus was Amster∣dam delivered by the hand of Heaven.

A second was, when that Bloody Duke of Luxenburg, who gloryed and thanked God that he was borne without pitty or remors of Consci∣ence, took the opportunitye of an exceeding hard frost to march his Armie over the Ice as it had been drye ground, burning in his way the three faire Villages of Bodygrave, Swammerdam and Goudse-sluys. Acting there a move cruell Tradigie and worse then ever did Turk, for they Generally fave the Country people for Ransom, but this cruell Prince caused strong Guards to sur∣round the villages, and burnd men,

Women and Children together, Thus he began his march with a de∣signe to burne Leyden, Hague, Rotterdam, Delph and all the rich Country of Rhineland: and this he might have done in all probabilitie, for first the Governor of Newsluce who commanded the post that should have stopt the French, Treacher∣ously delivered up the fort without firing a Gunn, and the handfull of Troopes then under General Ko∣ningsmark were so Inconsiderable that they joyned to the Souldiers un∣der Pain and Vin the Governer of new Sluce were not Able to make head as could oppose Luxenburgs Armie, and at the same tyme the good Prince of Orange was with the States Armie at Charle le Roy. Now was Leyden ready to meet the French with the Keyes of their Cit∣ty, and other Cittyes too, for they had neither fortifications nor Soul∣diers to man their walls; Thus the whole Country and Cittyes of Rhine∣land

were like to fall under the Crneltyes and Tyranny of the French, but God a second tyme sent these people reliefe from Heaven, first by giveing such un∣danted Courage to that great States man Pensionarie Fagel that he forced Koningsmark to Rally his Troopes together and to make a Stand neare Leyden, offering him∣selfe to dye at the head of them if there were occasion, but God re∣served him for a furder good to the Commonwealth by sending such a sudden Thaw as was never seen be∣fore, for in less then ten howers the Ice so sunk and such Floods of snow came downe from the high lands that the French were fain to make a very disorderly retreat, Marching up to the middel for hast, because on the Banks there could not march above four men a brest, so they were constrained to leave behind them the greatest part of the Plun∣der they had robed from the Inno∣cent

Country people, and the nim∣ble Duch men on their Scatses so long as the Ice would beare them, did shoot downe the French like Ducks diving under water, so that it cost Luxenburgs Armie deare, tho they had the pleasure to burne the poore people, of which the French afterward wickedly made their boast.

The third was as wonderfull as the two others, and although I doe not believe miracles, as doe the Papists, yet I say nothing I ever observed looked more like a Mi∣racle then this, to wit, when the English and French Fleet lay before Scheveling with a designe to land, and the French ready on their March to joyne with the English and other French as soon as they should land, at the same tyme the Bisshop of Munster lyeing before Groeningen, and the French before Gorcom, so that now all things looked with a dread∣full face for the States, yet at this

very tyme God sent a 3^d reliefe by sending such Mists, and wonderfull sorts of Tydes, as so separated the two Fleets, that the English were forced to quit Scheveling shore, and were driven on the side of the Texel Roade; from whence they were constrained by the season of the yeare to retire home, and such were the sudden & great showers of raine that the Bisshop of Munster was for∣ced in disorder to raise his siege at Groeningen, and the French to quit Gorcom; I could ad many more ob∣servations of the Providences of God to these people, as the pre∣serveing the Prince of Orange from the many treacherous designes con∣trived against him from his Cradel, but Moses must be preserved, to goe in and out before his people, cer∣tainely never young Prince Indured so many fatigues as did his Highnes in his tender yeares, of which I was an eye witnes, and had his Highnes had the yeares and Experience, and

such a good disciplinde Armie (as now he hath) in the yeare 1671 when the French Entered the Country, his Highnes had given them as good a welcome as he did at Bergen. I will say no more of this sub∣ject only this, that the peace at Nimwegen was also a very wonder∣ful thing, for that not above 8 dayes before the peace was signed, most of the Plenipotentiaries did be∣lieve the war would have continued another yeare; first because the King of Denmark and Duke of Brandenburg prospered Exceedingly against Sweedland, and totally re∣fused the propositions of France, and secondly because the French King writ such Bitter letters against the States Generall: yet 8 dayes af∣ter drest a letter unto the States in which he calles them his good friends, and old Allyes, offering them not only Mastricht but every foot of ground they could lay claime to in the world, also giveing them

new Termes, and Conditions as to their priviledges in France, by way of Trade; Neither can I forget how speedilie and as strangly the mighty French King did quit his Conquered Townes after the Valiant Prince of Orange took Naerden, which was the first step to the Frenchs ruine in the States Dominions. I come now, according to promess in the begin∣ning of this book, to give the reader some Remarkes I made in other Countries where I have been during my sixteen years travels. To give a full account of all that might be observed in so many Countries, is not a taske for one man, nor a sub∣ject for so small a book; I shall onely therefore briefely take notice of some remarkable matters which may in some measure satisfie the curiositie of my Country men who have not been in the said places, and convince, if possible, all of them, that no Countrey that ever I was in, afords so great convenien∣cies

for the generalitie of people to live in, as the Kingdome of England doth. Though I have twice made the grand tour of Germany, Hun∣gary, Italy and France, and after my return back to England travel∣led a third time through Holland as for as Strasbourg, and so back by Francfort to Denmark and Swe∣den; yet the reader is not to ex∣pect I should follow a Geographicall method and order in speaking of the places I have been in; that is to be lookt for in the map, and not in tra∣vels; but onely that I mention pla∣ces as I found them on my rode ac∣cording as busines or curiositie led mee to travel.

The first considerable place I then met with, after I was out of the dominions of the States Gene∣ral was Cleave the capital citie of the Province so called, a fair and lovely citie standing upon the Rhine and the rivers Wall and Leck. This Province much resembles Eng∣land

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in rich soyl and pleasantness of its rivers. The inhabitants of the Countrey would have mee beleeve that they were originally descended of those Saxons who made a descent in to England, and conquered it; and to convince the truth of this, they shew'd mee a cloyster standing on a hill, called Eltham, from which they say our Eltham in Kent had its name. I was made to observe also two places standing upon the Rhine neare Emmerick called Doad∣ford, and Gronewich, which accor∣ding to them, gave the names to Deaford and Greenwich in England; but many such analogies and simi∣litudes of names are to be found in other places of Germany, but espe∣cially in uper Saxony and Denmark. The greatest part of this Province of Cleave, and part of the duchy's of Julieres and Berg, and of the Provinces of Marke and Ravens∣bourg belongs to the Elector of Brandenbourg, the rest belonging

to the Duke of Newbourg now Ele∣ctor Palatine, and the Elector of Cologne. The inhabitants are partly Roman Catholicks, partly Luthe∣rans, and partly Calvinists, who all live promiscuously and peaceably together both in city and Countrey. The citie of Cleave is the out most limit of the territories of the Ele∣ctor of Brandenbourg on this side of Germany; from whence his Electo∣rall Highness can travel two hun∣dred dutch miles out right in his own Dominions, and never sleep out of his own Countrey but one night in the territories of the Bishop of Osnabrug.

From Cleave I went to a small town called Rhinberg, but a very strong fortification belonging to the Elector of Cologne; which lies at two miles distance from the citie of Wesel that belongs to the Elector of Brandenbourg. Through Disseldorpe scituated on the Rhine, and the Residence of the duke of

Newbourg, I went next to Cologne a very large city, called by the Romans Colonia Agrippina, and the French Rome d' Allema∣gne.

Cologne is an Imperial citie and a Republick, though for some things it does Homage to the Elector of that name, and receives an oath from him. It is much decayed with∣in these hundred years, having been much priest ridden, a misfortune that hath undone many other great cities. The Jesuits have had so great influence upon the Magistrats, that they prevailed with them to banish all Protestants, who remo∣ved to Hambourg and Amsterdam, so that Cologne is become so dispeo∣pled, that the houses dayly fall to ruine for want of inhabitants, and a great deal of corn and wine now grows within the walls, upon ground where houses formerly stood. I dare be bold to affirm that there is twice the number of inhabitants in the

parish of St. Martins in the fields, then there is in Cologne; and yet it contains as many parish churches, monasteries and chappels, as there are days in the year. The streets are very large, and so are the houses also, in many of which one may drive a Coach or waggon into the first room from the streets; but the streets are so thin of people, that one may pass some of them and not meet ten men or women, unless it be Church men or Religious sisters. The most considerable inhabitants of the citie are Protestant Mer∣chants, tho but few in number, and they not allowed a Church neither, but a place called Woullin a mile without the citie: the rest of the inhabitants who are lay men are miserably poor. There are no less than 3000 Stud••nts in Cologne taught by the 〈◊〉〈◊〉 gratis, who have the priviledge to beg in musi∣call notes in the day time, and take to them selves the liberty of bor∣rowing

hats and cloaks in the night: but if in the Jesuits Schools there be any rich Burgemasters sons who have parts, they are sure to be snapt up and adopted into the societie. Formerly, before the matter was otherwise adjusted in the diet of Ratisbonne, there have been designs of voteing Protestant Magistrats into the government again; but so soon as the Jesuits come to discover who of the Magistrats were for that, they immediately preferred their sons or daughters, and made them chanons, abbots or chanonesses, and so diver∣ted them by interest. It's pity to see a city so famous for traffike in former times now brought to so great a decay, that were it not for the trade of Rhenish wine it would be utterly forsaken, and left wholy to the Church men. The conti∣nuall alarms the Magistrats have had by forreign designs upon their li∣berty, and the jealousies fo∣mented among themselfs, as it is

thought, by the Agents and fa∣vourers of France, and especially the Bishop of Strasbourg, have for severall yeares kept them in conti∣nuall disquiet, and necessitated them to raise great taxes which hath not a litle contributed to the impoverishing of the people especially the boars round about; who tho the Coun∣trey they live in be one of the most pleasant and fertile plains of Ger∣many, yet are so wretchedly poor that canvas cloaths, wooden shoes, and straw to sleep on in the fame room with their beasts, is the grea∣test worldly happiness that most of them can attain unto. The Elector of Cologne is a venerable old man, Bi∣shop of four great bishopricks, viz Cologne, Liege, Munster, and Hel∣dershime. He divides his time betwixt his devotion and experimen∣tal studies, being punctuall in saying of mass every morning, and con∣stant in his Elaboratory in the af∣ternoon; for he is much addicted

to chymistry, and leaves the ad∣ministration of Government to his Cozen the Bishop of Strasbourg. To speak of all the miracles of the three Kings of Cologne, and the vast number of saints who were remo∣ved out of England and interred there, would be but tedious and perhaps incredible to the reader, as well as wide of my designe. I shall therefore proceed.

From Cologne I took water on the Rhine and advanced to the citie of Bon and so forward to Coblints the residence of the Elector of Trier. over against this city, on the other side of the Rhine stands that im∣pregnable fort called Herminshine, built on a high rocky hill as high again as Windsorcastle, and on the north side of it the River Mosel falls into the Rhine, over which there is a Stately stone bridge. This Prince governs his subjects as the other Spirituall Electors doe, that is, both by temporall and spirituall

authority, which in that Country is pretty absolute. The chiefe trade of this Countrey is in wine, corn, wood and Iron.

The next Countrey I came to was that of the Elector of Mayence who is likewise both a secular and Ecclesiasticall Prince and governs his subjects accordingly. He is reckoned to be wholely for the In∣terests of the French King; who notwithstanding of that, pretends a title to the citadel of Mayence. As I was upon my Journey to Mayence by land, I made a turn down the Rhin to visit the famous litle city of Backrack, and some towns belonging to the Landgrave of Hessen, but especially Backrack, because Travellers say it much re∣sembles Jerusalem in its scituation and manner of buildings. The Burgemaster of this city told mee that the whole Country about Backrack does not yield above 200 fouders of wine a year; And yet

the Merchants of Dort by an art of multiplication which they have used some years, furnish England with severall thousande of fouders. Here I shall take the liberty to re∣late a strange story which I found recorded in this Countrey; tho I know it to be mentioned in History. There was a certain cruel and inhu∣mane Bisshop of Mayence, who in a year of great scarcity and famine when a great number of Poor people came to his gates begging for bread, caused the Poor wretches, men, wo∣men and children to be put into a barn, under pretext of relieving their necessities; but so soon as they were got in, caused the barn doors to be shut, fire set to it, and so burnt them all alive: And whil'st the poor wretches cried and shree∣ked out for horrour and pain, the Barbarous miscreant said to those that were about him, harke how the Rats and mice doe crie. But the just Judgement of God suffe∣red

not the fact to pass unpunished; for not long after the cruel Bishop was so haunted with Rats and mice, that all the guards he kept about him, could not secure him from them, neither at table nor in bed, At length he resolved to flee for safetie into a tower that stood in the midle of the Rhine; but the Rats pursued him, got into his chamber and devoured him alive; so that the Justice of the Almighty made him a prey to vermine who had inhu∣manely reckoned his fellow Chri∣stians to be such. The tower which I saw, to this day is called the Rats-tower, and the story is upon record in the city of Mayence.

On my Journey from thence I came to the litle village of Hockom not far distant, famous for our Hockomore wine, of which though the place does not produce above 150 fouders a year; yet the Inge∣nions Hollanders of Dort make some thousand fouders of it goe

of, in England and the Indies.

From Hockom I proceeded to Francfort a pleasant city upon the river of Maine, called formerley Teutoburgum and Helenopolis and since Francfort, becaus here the Franconians who came out of the Province of Franconia foarded over, wfien they went upon their expe∣dition into Gallia, which they con∣quered and named it France: and I thought it might very well deserve the name of Petty-London, because of its Priviledges, and the humour of the citizens. It is a Hansiatick and Imperiall town and Common∣wealth, the Magistrats being Luthe∣rans which is the publick established Religion; though the Cathedrall church belongs to the Roman Catholicks who also have severall monasteries there. The citie is populous and frequented by all sorts of Merchants, from most parts of Europe, & part of Asia also, becaus of the two great faires that are yearely

kept there, Many Jews live in this city, and the richest Merchants are Calvinists, who are not suffered to have a Church in the town, but half an houres journey out of it, at a place called Bucknam, where I have told seventy four Coaches at a time all belonging to Merchants of the city. It was in ancient times much enriched by Charle le maigne and hath been since by the constitution of the Golden bull: amongst other honours & Priviledges its appointed to be the place of the Emperours Election, where many of the orna∣ments belonging to that August ceremonie are to be seen. It is strongly fortified having a stately stone bridge over the Maine that joynes it to Saxe∣housen the quarter of the great master of the Toutonick order. The government is easy to the people, they not being taxed as other cities are, and had it not been for the Alarmes the French gave them du∣ring the last war, they had not been

much troubled, but being forced to keep three or four thousand men in constant pay to defend their fortifi∣cations, the Magistrats were constrai∣ned to raise money by a tax. Be∣sides that of the Emperour, they are under the protection of some neigh∣bouring Princes, as of the Land∣grave of Hessen-Cassells, Landgrave of Armestadt, the Count of Solmes and the count of Hanau, who are either Lutherans or Calvinists, amongst whom the Late Elector Palatine was also one; but whether the present who is Roman Catholick be so or not, I cannot tel. This city takes great care of their poor, and in their charitie to poor travel∣lers exceed Holland. I have seen a list of seaven thousand whom they relieved in one year. Their great hospitall is a large court or palace, where the English Merchants for∣merly lived, in the time of Queen mary's persecution of the Protestants, who when they were recalled by

Queen Elisabeth were so generous as to give the whole court, with all their Packhouses and lands to the poor of the city. It was my fortune to be there in that cold Winter in the year 1683. and saw a ceremonie performed by the Wine coopers of the citie, who are obliged by law, that when ever the Maine lyes fast frozen over for eight days together, to make a great Fouder fat, Hoops and Staves, and set it up compleat upon the Ice. It was very good diver∣sion to see so many hands at worke, and to observe the jollity and mirth of the many thousands of spectators who wanted not plenty of Rhenish wine to carouse in.

I had the curiositie afterward to goe to the court of the Landgrave of Armestadt a Lutheran Prince who lives in part of the richest soyle in Germany. His Highness is a very courteous and obligeing Prince to Strangers, and his subjects are in a pretty good condition again,

though they have been great suf∣ferers by the last war between the Landgrave of Hessen and this fa∣milie.

From thence I went to Heidleberg a city I had been formerly in, in the life time of that wise tho unfortunate Prince Elector elder brother to Prince Rupert. Here I had the Honour to pay my dutifull respects to the Elector the son of that great Prince, whose commissary I had the honour to be for two years together in Am∣sterdam. This Prince, since my being there, is lately dead, and left behind him the reputation of having been a Zealous thorough paced Calvinist, and so constant a frequenter of the church, that some Sundays he went thrice a day to Sermon; but never failed, if in health, to be once a day at least at the garrison-church; where he took particular notice of such officers as were absent. He was married to a most virtuous lady the Royall sister of the King of Denmark

and his brother Prince George. During his life time the university of Heidleberg flourished exceedingly, so that the number of students was so great that Chambers and lodgings in the citie were scarce, and Span∣hemius was about quitting Leyden to return to his professors place in Heidleberg, but how matters stand since his death, I am as yet ignorant. This Countrey is called the paradise of Germany for its fruitfulness in wine, corn, and all sorts of fruit. I my self have seen growing in one plain at the same time, vines, corn, chestnuts, almonds, dates, figs, cherries, besides severall other sorts of fruit. And as the Countrey is fertile in yeelding the fruits of the Earth, so the people are carefull in providing store room for them. This I take notice of because of the prodigious Rhenish wine fats which are to be seen there, amongst which there are seaven, the least whereof holds the quantitie of 250 barells

of Beere as I calculated; but the large and most celebrated fat is that which goes by the name of the great Tun of Heidleberg, and holds 204 fouders of wine, and cost 705 L. Sterling in buildiug, for which one may have a very good house built. This fat I have seen twice, and the first time was, when the Elector treated the French Ambassadours that came to conclude the match betwixt his daughter and Monsieur the French Kings brother, who married her after the death of our Kings sister his first wife: at which treat there happened an adventure that I shall here please the Reader with. In a gallery that is over this fat the Elector caused a table to be placed in the midle, exactly above the bunghole of this Monstrous ves∣sell, and to be covered with a costly banquet of all sorts of sweet meats: The day before, all the wine being emptied out of this Tun into other Fats, a litle before the Ambassa∣dours

with other forrein Ministers and Persons of qualitie mounted the stairs to come to the place of enter∣tainment; The Elector caused twelve drummers with as many Trumpeters, some Kettledrums and other musick to be lodged in the belly of the Tun, with orders to strike up upon a signall given, when the Elector drank the French Kings health. All being sate down at table and merrily fee∣ding, the Elector drank the health, and the signall was given; whereupon the musick began to play its part with such a roaring and uncouth noise out of that vast cavitie below, that the French and other Persons of qualitie who were unacquainted with the designe, looking upon it to be an infernall and ominous sound, in great astonishment began to cry out Jesus Marie. The worlds at an end, and to shift every one for himself in so great disorder and con∣fusion, that for haste to be gone they tumbled down staires one over

another. All that the Elector could say to compose them, was either not heard or not valued, nor could any thing satisfie and reassure them, till they saw the Actors com marching out of their den. Had not many Persons of qualitie and travellers seen this Fat as wel as my self who know that what I say of its incredible bigness to be true, I should be afraid the Reader might think I im∣posed upon his credulitie.

From Heidleberg I went to see that impregnable Fort or citadell of Manheim alias Fredericks-berg built by the Elector Frederick brother to Prince Rupert, a Prince of as good a head as any Germany affoarded, who though some have too partially Judged of him by his misfortunes, yet by the wisest of the age was acconnted the Cato of Germany. The wisest and best-men of the world have been unfortunate, which makes some to be of the opinion that God in his wisdom

thinks fit it should be so, least otherwise they might attribute their prosperitie rather to the wise dire∣ction of their own conduct, then his all seeing Providence: and in∣deed, dayly experience seemes to evince the truth of this, since wee see knaves and fools advanced to preferment and richess, when men of virtue and parts die neglected and poor in the eyes of the world, though rich in the enioyment of a contented mind. But this is a digression which the honour I have for the memory of that great man hath led mee into, and therefore I hope will be pardo∣ned by the Reader. In the citadel of Manheim I saw some of the Re∣cords of that illustrious familie, which without dispute is the most ancient of all the Secular Electors, being elder to that of Bavaria which sprung from one and the same stock, to wit, two Emperours of Ger∣many. Many writers derive them originally from Charle le maigne, by

the line of Pepin King of France. There have been severall Emperours of that race, one King of Denmark and four Kings of Sweden, one of which was King of Norway also, besides many great Generals of Ar∣mies in Germany, Hungary, France and other Countries. Since I can remember there vere five Protestant Princes heires to that Electorall di∣gnity alive; which now by their death is fallen to the Duke of Newbourg a Roman Catholick, whose Daughter is Empress of Germany and another of his Daughters maryed to the King of Portugall. Being so neare Stras∣bourg, I had the curiositie to goe see what figure that famous citie now made since it had changed its ma∣ster; for I had been thrice there before, when it flourished under the Emperours protection, with the li∣berty of a Hausiatick town: And Indeed I found it so disfigured, that had it not been for the stately Ca∣thedrall Church, and fair streets and

buildings, I could scarcely have know'n it. In the streets and Exchange which formerly were thronged with sober rich and peace∣able Merchants, you meet with none hardly now but men in buff Coats and scarffs with rabbles of Soldiers their attendants. The churches I confess are gayer, but not so much frequented by the inhabi∣tants as heretofore, seing the Lu∣therans are thrust into the meanest churches and most of the chiefe Merchants both Lutherans and Calvinists removed to Holland and Hambourg. Within a few years, I beleeve it will be just such another city for trade and Richess as Brisac is. It was formerly a rich city and well stockt with Merchants and wealthy inhabitants, who lived under a gentle and easy government; but now the Magistrats have litle else to doe in the government, but onely to take their rules and mea∣sures from a citadell and great guns,

which are Edicts that Merchants least understand. I confess Stras∣bourg is the less to be pityed that it so tamely became a slave, and put on its chains without any strugling. Those Magistrats who were instru∣ments in it, are now sensible of their own folly, and bite their nails for anger, finding themselves no better but rather worse hated than the other Magistrats, who did what they could to hinder the reception of their new masters the French. I quickly grew weary of being here, meeting with nothing but com∣plaints of poverty, and paying exorbitant taxes; I therefore soon returned to my Petty - London Francfort, and from thence went to Cassells, the chiefe residence of the Landgrave of Hessen. This Prince is a Calvinist, as most of his subjects are, very grave and Zealous in his religion: He married a Princess of Courland, by whom he hath an hopefull issue, to wit, three sons

and two Daughters. The late King was God father to one of his sons, who was Christened by the name of Charles. Captain William Legg Brother to the Lord Dartmouth representing his Majestie as his Envoy. The court of this Prince does indeed resemble a well gover∣ned colledge, or Religious Cloyster, in regard of its modestie and regu∣laritie in all things, and especially in the houres of devotion. He is rich in money, and entertains about nine thousand men in constant pay, under the command of Count van derlipp, a brave and expert Soldier his Lieutenant Generall; but can bring many more upon occasion into field. This familie hath been very happy both in its progenie and alliances, many wise Princes of both sexes having sprung from it; and the mother of this present Landgrave may be reckoned amongst the illu∣strious women of the present and past ages. After the death of Wil∣liam

the 5. Landgrave of Hessen her husband, she not only supported but advanced the war wherein he was engaged, did many signall actions, Enlarged her territories, and at the conclusion of the peace kept under her pay 56 Cornets of horse in five Regiments, 166 Com∣panies of foot, besides thirteen Companies of Dragons, and 14 independent Companies, in all 249 Companies of horse and foot; she was a Princess extreamly obliging to strangers: especially virtuous and learned divines. I had the honour a good many yeares agoe to kisse her highnesses hand; at which time she was mighty Zealous in promoting an accommodation amongst diffe∣rent Religions, as the Roman Ca∣tholick, Lutheran and Calvinist, but especially betwixt the two lat∣ter, and therefore entertained Do∣ctor Duris at her court in Cassels who wrote severall pieces upon that subject of reconciliation, and with

lome of his friends had a conference with a learned priest that came from Rome to forward the project; where∣upon the Doctor published his book of the Harmoney of Con∣sent, which is highly esteemed in Germany.

From this Princes court I dire∣cted my journey to Hanover, taking Lambspring in my way, a place where there is a convent of English Monks; and there I met with a very aged worthy and harmeless Gentleman St. Thomas Gascoigue, a Person of more integrity and pietie then to be guilty, so much as in thought, of what miscreants falsly swore against him in the licentions time of plot∣ting; the Lord Abbot and severall of the Monks I had seen there for∣merly. This monastery is very obliging to all strangers that travell that way, as well as to theire own Countreymen, and is highly respe∣cted by the neighbouring Princes of all persuasions, as the Princes

of the house of Lunenburg, the Landgrave of Hessen, and Elector of Cologne, who as Bishop of Hil∣dersheim is their ordinary. The town of Lambspring is Lutheran though under the government of the Lord Abbot and his chapter, who constantly choose Lutheran Magi∣strats and Officers for the civill ad∣ministration, and live together in that love and unitie, that as yet there hath never the least debate happened amongst them; and indeed this harmoney is now to be obser∣ved in most parts of Germany where different Religions are professed. When I considered so many goodly faces both of Monks and students in that Abbey, I could not forbeare to make a serious reflexion on the number of the English whom I had seen in the colledges and Cloysters abroad, as at Rome, Rattesbonne, Wirtzburg in Lorraine, at Liege, Louvain, Brussels, Dunkerk, Ghent, Paris, and other places,

besides the severall Nunneries, and withall on the loss that both King and Kingdome suffered thereby, when so many of our natives both men and women should be constrai∣ned to spend their own Estats and the benevolence of others in a strange Land, which amounts to more mo∣ney than at first one may imagine; and this thought, I confess, made me wish it were otherwise. I would not have the Reader to mistake mee here, as if I espoused, or pleaded for any particular party; No, I plead onely for the sentiments of humanity, without which our nature degenerates into that of brutes, and for the love that every honest man ought to have for his Countrey. I am asmuch a friend to the Spanish Inquisition, as to the persecuting of tender Conscienced protestants, provided there be no more but Conscience in the case; and I could heartily with that Papists and Pro∣testants could live as lovingly to∣gether

in England as they doe in Holland, Germany, and other Coun∣tries; for give mee leave to say it, I love not that Religion which in stead of exalting, destroys the Principles of morality and humane societie. I have met with honest men of all per∣suasions, even Turks and Jews, who in their lives and manners have far exceeded many of our Enthu∣siastick professors at home; and when ever this happened, I could not forbeare to love the men with∣out embraceing there Religion, for which they themselves are to account to their great master and Judge.

In my progress towards Hanover I touched at Hildersheim a city whose Magistrates are Lutheran, though Roman Catholicks have the Cathedrall Church, and severall monasteries there. The court of Ha∣nover makes another kind of figure than that of Cassels, it being the court of a greater Prince, who is

Bishop of Osnaburg, duke of Bruns∣wick Lunenburg, Hanover &c. Here I had the honour to kiss the hands of the Princess Royall Sophia youngest sister to the late Prince Rupert. Her highness has the character of the Merry debonnaire Princess of Germany, a lady of ex∣traordinary virtue and accomplish∣ments, and mistriss of the Italian, French, High and low dutch and English languages, which she speaks to perfection. Her husband has the title of the Gentlemen of Ger∣many, a gracefull and comely Prince both a foot and on horseback, civill to strangers beyond compare, infi∣nitely Kind and beneficent to people in distress, and known in the world for a valiant and experienced Soldier. I had the honour to see his troops which without controversie are as good men, and commanded by as expert Officers as any are in Europe: Amongst his Officers I found brave Steel-hand Gordon Collonel of an

Excellent Regiment of horse, Grimes, Hamilton, Talbot and others of our Kings subjects. God hath blest the Prince with a numerous offspring, having six sons all galant Princes; of whom the two eldest signalized themselves so bravely at the raising of the siege of Vienna, that as an undoubted proofe of their valour they brought three Turks home to this court prisoners. His Eldest son is married to a most beautifull Princess sole heiress of the duke of Lunenbourg and Zell his elder brother; as the lovely Prin∣cess his daughter is lately married to the Electorall Prince of Bran∣denbourg. He is a gracious Prince to his people, and keeps a very splendid court, having in his sta∣bles for the use of himself and chil∣dren no less than fifty two sets of coach horses. he himself is Luthe∣ran, but as his subjects are Chri∣stians of different persuasions, nay and some of them Jews too, so

both in his court and army he en∣tertains Gentlemen of various opi∣nions and Countries, as Italian ab∣bots, and Gentlemen that serve him, and many Calvinist French Officers: neither is he so bigotted in his Re∣ligion but that he and his Children goe many times to Church with the Princess who is a Calvinist, and joine with her in her devotion. His Countrey is good, having gold and silver mines in it, and his sub∣jects live well under him; as doe those also of his brother the duke of Lunenbourg, and their Cozen the duke of Wolfembottel, which are the three Princes of the house of Lunenbourg; of whom it may be said that they have alwayes stuck honestly to the right side, and be∣friended the interests of the Em∣pire; so that no by respect, neither honour nor profit, could ever pre∣vail with them, as it has with others, to make them abandon the publick concern.

From this Princes court I went to Zell the residence of the duke the elder brother of the familie. This Prince is called the mighty Nimrod becaus of the great delight he takes in horses, dogs and hunting. He did mee the honour to let mee see his stables, wherein he keeps 370 horses most of them English, or of English breed. His dogs which are also English, are so many, that with great care they are quartered in severall apartments according to their Kind and qualities, there being a large office like a brewhouse em∣ployed for boyling of malt and Corn for them. It is this valiant Prince who tooke Tieves from the French, and made the Mareshall de Crequi prisoner: he is extreamely obliging to strangers, and hath severall brave Scottish Officers under his pay, as Major General Erskin, Graham, Coleman, Hamilton Melvin and others. His Lieutenant General is one Chavot a Protestant of Alsatia

an excellent and experienced com∣mander; who did mee the honour to treat mee three days at his house, where with all his Scottish and En∣glish Officers, whom he had invi∣ted, wee liberally drank to the health of our present King, having, as he told us, served under his Majestie, when duke of York, both in France and Flanders, where he gained the reputation both for skill and conduct in the wars not onely from Mareshall Turin a competent Judge, but also from all other Ge∣neral Persons who had the honour to know him, that fame hath made better know'n in the world than the encomium which that generous Gentleman ingenuously gave, and which heere I spare to relate. I shall adde no more concerning this Prince, his Officers, or Countrey; but that he with the other two Prin∣ces of the house of Lunenbourg Ha∣nover and Wolfenbottel, can upon occasion bring into the field 36000

Soldiers whom they keep in constant pay, and such men as I never saw better in my life.

After some stay at the Court of the duke of Zell I went to Ham∣bourg a famous Hansiatick town. It is a republick and city of great trade, occasioned partly by the English Company of Merchant ad∣ventures, but much more by the dutch Protestants who in the time of the Duke of Alba forsook the low Countries and seltled here, and the Protestants also who were tur∣ned out of Cologne and other places in Germany; who nevertheless are not now allowed publick Churches within the citie, but at a place cal∣led Altena a village belonging to the King of Denmark, a quarter of an houres walk distant from Ham∣bourg. This Commonwealth is Lutheran and governed by four Burgemasters, twenty four Radts∣heres, and a common Council of all the Burghers who have above

40 schellings per annum free hold. The symbole or Motto under their Armes is, da pacem domine in diebus nostris, and in their Standart are these letters S. P. Q. H. The people here grone under heavy tax∣es and impositions; The State be∣caus of continuall Alarms they have from the King of Denmark or other neighbours; and the intestine broiles that frequently happen here, as well as at Cologne, where the Burgemasters are often in danger of their lives from the mutinous mo∣bile; being sorced to maintain six or seaven thousand men in pay, be∣sides two or three men of war to guard their havens from pirats. I shall not name all the wayes of im∣posing taxes which this Com∣monwealth uses, becaus in most they imitate the methods of the States Generall as to that, which have bin mentioned before: I shall onely take notice of some peculiar customes they have, wherein they

differ from Holland. When a Bar∣ber, shoe maker, or any other Ar∣tizan dies, leaving a widow and Children, another of the same trade is not admitted to set up for him∣self as a master; unless he com∣pound with the widow for a piece of money, or else marry her, or a daughter of hers with her con∣sent.

If any man cause another to be arrested for debt or upon any other suit, the plaintif must goe along with the Officer who arrests the party and stay by him untill the pri∣soner be examined by the sheriff; so that if the sheriff be not to be spoken with that night, the plaintiff must tarry with the prisoner all night, untill the sheriff examine the matter, and see cause of dis∣charging or committing the party; but this a plaintiff may doe by a pro∣curation Notariall.

If a prisoner be committed for debt, the plaintiff must maintain

him in prison according to his qua∣litie: and if the party lye in prison during the space of six yeares, at the expiration of that time the pri∣soner is discharged; and if during the time of his imprisonment, the plaintif doe not punctually pay the prisoners allowance at the months end, the prisoner is set at liberty, and nevertheless the plaintiff must pay the Gailer the last months al∣lowance.

This state is severe in the execu∣tion of Justice against thieves, murders and cheats. There is no pardon to be expected for mur∣der, and a Burgemaster himself if guilty cannot escape. The punish∣ment for Murder is here as in Sweden, breaking malefactors on the wheele, pinching their breasts and Arms with hot Pincers, speeting them in at the fundament and out at the shoulder, they have also cruel wayes of torturing to make prisoners confess; And are very carefull not to

be cheated in their publick revenue, their accisemen and collectors being punished as in Holland. They take a very good course not to be chea∣ted in their accise; for all the mils of the Countrey are in the hands the State; so that no baker nor brewer can grind his own corn, but must have it ground at the States mills, where they pay the accise. There is a Generall tax upon all houses, and that is the Eight penny, which nevertheless does not excuse them from chimney money. The States here as at Genoa in Italy are the publick vintners, of whom all people must buy their wine, which they buy from the Merchants, or otherwise import it in their own ships. In their ceremonies of bu∣rying and Christening, they are ridiculously prodigall; as for in∣stance. If one invite a Burgema∣ster, he must give him a ducat in gold, if a Raedtsheer, that is, an Alderman, a Rixdollar, to every

Preacher, Doctor of Physick, Ad∣vocat or Secretary halfe a Rixdollar, and to every Schoolmaster the third part of a Rixdoller. The women are the inviters to Burialls, wed∣dings and Christenings, who weare an Antick Kind of a dress, having mitered caps as high again as the Miter of a Bishop. The Churches here are rich in revenues, and or∣naments, as Images and Stately Organs wherein they much delight. They are great lovers of Musick▪ in so much that I have told 75 masters of severell sorts of Musick in one Church, besides those who were in the Organ▪gallery. Their Organs are extraordinarely large. I measured the great pipes in the Organs of St. Catharins and St. James's Churches, and found them to be 3 foot and 3 quarters in cir∣cumference and 32 foot long; in each of which Organs there are two Pipes 5 foot and 8 inches round. The wealth and trade of this

citie encreases dayly: They send one year with another 70 Ships to Greenland, and have wonderfully engrossed that trade from England and Holland, and it is beleeved that small and great there are be∣longing to this Commonwealth five thousand sayl of Ships. After Am∣sterdam, Genoa, and Venice their bank is reckoned the chiefe in cre∣dit; but in trade they are accoun∣ted the third in Europe, and come next to London and Amsterdam. Hambourg is now become the Ma∣gazine of Germany and of the bal∣tick and northern seas. They give great priviledges to the Jewes, and to all strangers whatsoever, Espe∣cially the English Company of Merchant Adventurers, whom they allow a large building, where they have a Church, and where the de∣puty governour, Secretary, Mi∣nister, and the other Officers of the Company live, to whom they yearly make present of Wine,

Beere, Sheep, Salmond and Stur∣geon in their seasons. And so much of Hambourg.

From Hambourg I went to Lu∣beck, which is also a Com∣monwealth and Imperiall town. It is a large well built city contai∣ning ten parish Churches; the Ca∣thedrall dedicated to St. Peter being in length 500 foot, with two high spires all covered with brass as the rest of the Churches of that ciry are. In former times this city was the place where the deputies of all the Hansiatick towns assembled, and was once so powerfull as to make war against Denmark and Sweden, and to conquer severall places and Islands belonging to those two Crowns, nay and to lend Ships to England and other Potentates, without any prejudice to their own trade, wherein they vied in all parts with their neighbours; but it is now exceedingly run into decay not onely in territories, but in wealth

and trade also. And the reason of that was chiefely the inconsiderate zeal of their Lutheran Ministers who perswaded the Magistrates to banish all Roman Catholicks, Calvinists, Jews, and all that dissen∣ted from them in matter of Reli∣gion, even the English Company too, who all went and setled in Hambourg, to the great advantage of that city and almost ruine of Lubeck, which hath not now above 200 Ships belonging to it, nor more territories to the State; than the city it self and a small part cal∣led Termond about eight miles di∣stant from it. The rest of there ter∣ritories are now in the possession of the Danes and Swedes, by whom the burghers are so continually al∣larmed, that they are quite tired out with keeping guard and paying of Taxes. The city is indeed well fortified; but the government not being able to maintain above 1500 Soldiers in pay, 400 Burghers

in two Companies are obliged to watch every day. They have a large well built Stathouse, and an Exchange covered, on the top whereof the globes of the world are painted. This Exchange is about fifty yards in the length, and but fifteen in breadth; over it there is a Roome where the skins of five Lions which the Burghers killed at the city gates in the year 1252 are kept stuft. The great market place is very large where a monumentall stone is to be seen, on which one of their Burgemasters was beheaded for running away without fighting in a sea engagement. The people here spend much time in their Churches at devotion, which con∣sists chiefely in singing. The women are beautifull but disfigured with a kind of Antick dress; they wea∣ring cloaks like men. It is cheap living in this town; for one may hire a palace for a matter of 20 L. a year, and have provisions at

very reasonable rates: besides the air and water is very good; the city being supplied with fountains of Excel∣lent fresh water, which Hambourg wants; and good ground for cel∣lerage, there being cellars here fourty or fifty foot deep.

I had the curiosity to goe from Lubeck to see the Ancient city of Magdeburg, but found it so ruined and decayed by the Swedish war, that I had no encouragement to stay there. I therefore hastened to Berlin the chiefe residence of the Elector of Brandenbourg, at whose Court I mett with a very In∣genuous French Merchant who tould me that he and divers other Merchants were designed to have lived in England, but were discou∣raged by a letter sent from London, by a French man that was removeing from thence to Amsterdam, for these following reason which I cop∣pied out of his Letter; First because the Reformed Religion is persecu∣ted

in England as it is in France, the which I tould him was a great untruth, for it is apparent that they have been all along graciously admitted, and received into his Majesties Dominions, without inter∣ruption, & allowed the free exercise of their owne forme of worship, ac∣cording to the Doctrine & discipline of the Churches of France, nor can they who converse with the French Ministers either in France or Holland be Ignorant, that the chiefest part, if not all those Ministers are wil∣ling to complye with the Church of England, and it is Evident that most of the Dutch and French Pro∣testants (so called;) in Holland make use of Organs in their Chur∣ches;

A second thing was that both the bank of London and the Ban∣kers▪Gouldsmiths were all broak, the which I tould this Frenchman was not true altogether, for there are many able Bankers whome I named

as Alderman Fowles, Alderman Hornbey, Alderman Duncomb, Al∣derman Founs, Mr. Thomas Cook, Mr. Rob: Vyner, Mr. Childe, Mr. Endes, Mr. Evans and others well known to the world by their solid dealling: neyther was the Bank (as he called the Chamber of London) broak, only it had been under the management of a bad Person whose designe was to bring it into disgrace; besides there is the East-India Company an unquestiona∣ble securitie for those as have money to dispose of, together with another undeniable securitie which is Land. Thirdly he saith, that in England there is no Register, and therefore many frauds in purchases & morga∣ges, which begett teadious suites, and renders both dangerous to trust; Fourtly that if a man would purchase land he cannot, being an Alien, un∣till Naturalized. Fiftly that in England there are so many plots and Confusions in Goverment that

the Kingdome is hardly quiet twenty yeares together.

Sixtly that false wittnesses were so common in England and the crime of perjury so slightly punished, that no man could be safe in life or Estate if he chanced to be in trouble. Lastly he said that the English are so restless and quarrelesome, that they not only foment and cherish Animosities amongst one another, but are Every foot contriving and plotting against their lawfull sove∣raign and the Goverment. By such surmises and insinuations as these the French and Germans are scared from trusting themselves and for∣tunes in England and therefore settle in Amsterdam, Hamburg and other Cittyes, where there are Banks and Registers; This I say is one cause why there are now to be seene at Amsterdam such vast numbers of French and Germans who have much inriched that Citty and raised the rents of the houses 20 percent,

and the silkeweavers grow also verie rich keeping so many Almes Chil∣dren to doe their work and having all their labour without any charge only for the teaching them their trades; which hath lessened the revenues of the French crown, and will in tyme greately increase the number of the States subjects, and advance ther publick Incomes.

To say the truth the inconstancy and wantonnesse of the English na∣tion, especially of late tymes, when no other cause could be given for it, but to much ease and plenty, is not only wondered at but refle∣cted upon by foreigners; yet I am morally certaine that could the peo∣ple of England be once againe uni∣ted in love and affection as they are bound to be in duty and Intrest, and would they be as willing to con∣tribute to their own hapines as heaven hath been kind and liberal in bestowing the meanes of it, with a good and gratious Prince solicitous

for preserveing the same to them, could wee be so blest as wee have great reason to Expect wee may under the Auspicious reigne of him whose royall Virtues are dreaded by none either at home or a broad but such as are the disturbers of publick and lawfull Authoritie.

Having made this digression, I return to Berlin, It is a city lately enlarged with fair streets and palaces. The Magistrates of the place are Luthe∣rans, which is the publick establi∣shed Religion in all the Electors dominions; though he himself and his Children be Calvinists. He is lookt upon to be so true to that persuasion, that he is reckoned the Protector of the Calvinists; and indeed he sollicited the Emperour very hard for a toleration of the Protestants in Hungary. His cha∣plains, as most of the Lutheran ministers also, endeavour to imi∣tate the English in their way of preaching: and his highness is so

much taken with English divinity, that he entertains divines for trans∣lating English books into the Ger∣man tongue, as the whole duty of man and severall others. He has a large and Srately palace at Berlin and therein a copious library enriched with many manuscripts, medalls, and rarities of Antiquity. He may compare with most Princes for hand∣some guards, being all of them proper well bodied men, and most part Officers who ride in his guards of horse. As he is know'n in the world to be a valiant and warlick Prince, so he maintains in pay an Army of 36000 men; besides five or six thousand horsmen, who in time of war are modelled into troopes; with which body during the late war with Sweden, his highness in Person beat the Swedes out of his Countrey. Hee keeps his forces in strickt Discipline, obliging all the Officers, if Protestants, on Sun∣days and holy days to march their se∣verall

Companies in order to Church, but if a superiour Offi∣cer be of a contrary persuasion, then the next in commission supplies his place. This custome is Reli∣giously observed by all his highnes∣ses garrisons; whilest he himself with his Children, being five sons, two Daughters, and two Daugh∣ters in law, goe constantly to the Calvinist Church adjoyning to the Court. Amongst other acts of pu∣blick pietie and charitie, this Prince hath established and endowed some Religious houses or Nunneries for Protestant young ladies, where they may live virtuously and spend their time in devotion as long as they please, or otherwise marry, if they think fit, but then they lose the be∣nefit of the Monastery. There is one of these at Herford in West∣phalia, where I was and had the honour to wait upon the Lady Ab∣bess the Princess Elisabeth, eldest sister of the Elector Palatine and

Prince Rupert, who is since dead. Nothwithstanding the late wars with Sweden and that by the prevalency of France in that hasty treaty of peace concluded at Nimwegen, his Electorall Highness was obliged to give back what he had Justly taken from that crown; yet his subjects flourish in wealth and trade, his highness having encouraged manu∣factures of all sorts, by inviting Ar∣tizans into his dominions, and esta∣lished a Company of tradeing Mer∣chants to the West-Indies, which will much advance navigation a∣mongst his subjects. And in all humane probabilitie they are like to continue in a happy condition, seing by the alliances his highness hath made with the Protestant Princes of the Empire, and especially the house of Lunenbourg, they are in no danger of being disturbed by their neigh∣bours. I told you before that the Prince of Brandenbourg was married to the Daughter of the duke of

Hanover, so that so long as that al∣liance holds, the families of Bran∣denbourg and Lunenbourg will be in a condition to cast the ballance of the Empire; they both together being able to bring into the field 80000 as good men as any are in Europe.

When I parted from Berlin I made a turn back to Lunenbourg in my way to Swedland, where I found severall of my Countrey men Officers in the garison, who shew'd mee what was most remarkeable in the city, as the Saltworks (which bring in considerable summes of money to the duke of Lunen∣bourg) the Stathouse, and Churches, in one of which I saw a communion table of pure ducat gold. From thence I went into the Province of of Holstein, and at a small sea port called Termond, of which I spake, before, I embarked for Sweden.

He that hath read in the histories of this last age the great exploits of

Gustavus Adolphus and his Swedes, perhaps may have a fancy that it must be an excellent Countrey which hath bredsuch warriours; but if he approach it, he will soon find him∣self undeceived. Entering into Sweedland at a place called Lands∣ort, wee sailed forwards amongst high rocks having no other prospect from Land but mountains till wee came to Dollers, which is about four Swedish, that is, twenty four English miles from Stockholm, the capitall citie of the Kingdome: upon my comeing a shore I confess I was a litle surprised to see the poverty of the people; and the litle wooden houses they lived in, not unlike Soldiers huts in a leaguer; but much more, when I discove∣red litle else in the Countrey but mountanous rocks and standing lakes of water. The Reader will excuse mee, I hope, if I remarke not all that I may have taken no∣tice of in this Countrey, seing by

what I have already written, he may perceive that my designe is rather to observe the manner of the inha∣bitants living, then to give a full description of every thing that may be seen in the Countrey they live in. However I shall say somewhat of that too, having premised once for all that the ordinary people are wretchedly poor; yet not so much occasioned by the Publick taxes, as the barrenness of their Countrey, and the oppression of the nobles their Landlords, and immediate su∣periours, who till the present King put a stop to their violences, ty∣rannically domineered over the lives and fortunes of the poor pea∣sants. From Dollers I took waggon to Stockholm, changing horses three times by the way, by reason of the badness of the rode, on all hands environed with rocks, that hardly open so much as here and there to leave a shred of plain ground. At two miles distance upon that rode

the citie of Stockholme looks great; becaus of the Kings palace, the hou∣ses of Noblemen, and some Chur∣ches which are seated upon rocks; and indeed, the whole citie and suburbs stand upon rocks, unless it be some few houses built upon ground gained from the rivers that run throw the town. Stockholme has its name from a stock or logg of wood which three brothers threw into the water five miles above the city, making a vow that where ever that stock should stop, they would build a castle to dwell in. The stock stopt at the Holme or rock where the palace of the King now stands; and the brothers to be as good as their word, there built their castle, which invited others to doe the like; so that in process of time the other rocks or holmes were covered with buildings which at length became the capital citie of the Kingdome. It is now embellished with a great many

Stately houses, and much emproved from what it was 400 yeares agoe, as indeed, most cities are; for the Stathouse then built, is so con∣temtible and low that in Hol∣land or England, it would not be suffered to stand to disgrace the na∣tion. The Council Chamber where the Burgemaster and Raedt sit, is two rooms cast into one not above nine foot high; and the two rooms where the sheriffs and the Erve col∣ledge (which is a Judicature like to the Doctors Commons in England) sit are not above eight foot and a halfe high. The Kings Palace is a large square of stone building, in some places very high, but an old and irregular fabrick, without a suffi∣cient quantitie of ground about it for gardens and walks. It was an∣ciently surrounded with water; but some yeares since part of it was filled up to make a way from the castlegate down into the old town. In this Palace there are large rooms; but

the lodgings of the King, Queen and Royall familie are three pair of stairs high, the rooms in the first and second story's being destin'd for the Senat Chamber and other courts of Judicature. The Kings library is four pair of stairs high, being a room about fourty six foot square, with a closet adjoyning to it not half the dimensions. When I considered the appartments and furniture of this Court, I began to think that the French Author wrote truth, who in his Remarks upon Swedland sayes, that when Queen Christina resigned the Crown to Carolus Gustaphus the father of this present King, she disposed of the best of the furniture of the Court, and gave away a large share of the Crown lands to her favo∣rites; in so much that the King considering the poor condition she had left the Kingdome in, and seeing the Court so meanely furni∣shed, said that had he know'n be∣fore he accepted the Crown, what

then he did, he would have taken other measures.

There are many other Stately pa∣laces in Stockholme belonging to the nobilitie; but many of them for want of repairs, and not being inhabi∣ted run to ruine; severall of the nobles who lived in them formerly, having lost the estates that maintai∣ned their ancient splendour, as wee shall see hereafter, being retired unto a Countrey life. There are also some other magnificent stru∣ctures begun, but not finished, as that Stately building intended for a Parliament house for the nobles, and two or three Churches: but what I most wonder at is the vault wherein the late King lies buried, is not as yet covered but with boards, for it is to he observed that the Kings of Sweeden have no tombs and monuments as in England and other Countries; but are put into copper coffins with inscriptions on them, and placed one by another in vaults

adjoyning to the Gray Friers Church. These vaults are about Eight in num∣ber, having turets over them with vains of Copper gilt, carved into the ciphers of the severall Kings who give them their names by being the first that are interred in them. The vault of the late King is not yet finished, no more then the fa∣bricks above mentioned, which per∣haps may be imputed to the late troubles of Swedland. The num∣ber of the inhabitants of Stockholme are also much decreased within these few yeares, partly by reason of the removal of the Court of Admiraltie and the Kings Ships from that citie to Charles-crown, a new haven lately made about 200 English miles from thence, which hath draw'n many families belonging to the fleet and Admiralitie from Stockholme to live there: and partly becaus many of the nobilitie, gentry and those that depended on them, are, as I said before, withdraw'n from Stock∣holme

to a retired life in the Coun∣trey. Nevertheless the ordinary sort of Bourghers who still remain are extreamly poor; seing the women are fain to worke like horses, drawing carts, and as labourers in England, serving masons and bricklayers with stone, bricks and mortar, and unloa∣ding vessells that bring those mate∣rials; some of the poor creatures in the summertime toyling in their smocks without either shoes or stockings. They performe also the part of wa∣termen, and for a small matter will row passengers 40 miles or more if they please.

The Court here is very thin and silent, the King living frugally & sel∣dome dining in publick. He eats commonly with the two Queens his mother and consort, who is a virtuous Princess sister to the King of Denmark. She is the mother of five Children, three sons and two daughters, with whom she spends most of her time in retirement. The

King is a goodly Prince whom God hath blessed and endowed with ac∣complishments far beyond what might have been expected from his education, wherein he was ex∣treamly abused, being taught litle more than his mother tongue. He is gracious, Just and valiant, con∣stant at his devotion, and utterly averse from all kind of debauchery, and the unfashionable vanities of other courts in playes, and danceing.

His Sports are hunting and exer∣ciseing of his guards, and he rarely appeares publickly or gives audience to strangers, which is imputed to his sense of the neglect of his edu∣cation. He is a Prince that hath had a very hard beginning in the world, which hath many times proved fortunate to great men; and indeed, if wee consider all the cir∣cumstances of his early misfortunes, how he was slighted and neglected by his nobles who would hardly vouchsase to pay him a visit when he

was among them in the Countrey, or to doe him homage for the lands they held of the Crown; and how by the Pernicious councels of the French and the weakeness or trea∣chery of his governours he was misled into a war that almost cost him his Crown, having lost the best of his territories in Germany and Schonen, and most of his for∣ces both by sea and land: If I say, these things be considered, it will probably appeare that hardly any Prince before him hath in a shorter time or more fully setled the Au∣thority and prerogative of the Crown, then he hath done in Swe∣den; for which he stands no wayes obliged to France, as he was for the restauration of what he lost during the war. He is now as absolute as the French King, and makes Edicts which have the force of Laws with out the concurrence of the Estates of the Kingdome. He hath erected two Iudicatures the one called the

colledge of Reduction, and the other of inspections; the first of which hath put his Majesty in pos∣session again of all lands alienated from the Crown, and the other called to account all persons even the heires and executors of those who had cheated the Crown, and made them refound what they or their predeceslors had appropriated to their own use of the Publick re∣venue. These two necessary con∣stitutions, as they have reduced many great families to a pinch, who formerly lived splendidly upon the Crown lands and revenues, and obliged them to live at home upon their ancient and private Patrimonie in the Countrey, which is one great cause that the Court of Sweden is at present so unfrequented; so have they enabled his Majestie, without burdening of his subjects, to sup∣port the Charges of the govern∣ment, and to maintain 64000 men in pay. The truth is his other Re∣venues

are but small, seing Queen Christina enjoys the best of his ter∣ritories, as her allowance, and that what arises from the Copper and Iron mines, one Silver mine, the Pitch and Tar, the customes and excise amounts to no extraordinary summ of money, & the land tax in so barren a Countrey scarcely de∣serving to be named. The customes and excise, I confess, are very high, and the rigorous manner of exa∣cting them pernicious to trade; as for instance. If a ship come to Stock∣holme from London with a hundred severall sorts of goods, and those goods assigned to fifty several men more or less; if any of those fifty doe not pay the custome of what belongs to him, though it be for a barrel of Beer, the Ship shall not be unladen, nor no man have his goods out, though he hath fully payed the customes for them, till this last man hath payed his. There are severall other silly customes in

Swedland that discourages men from tradeing there; as if any stranger die there, a third of his Estate must goe to the city or town where he traded. No forreigne Merchant in Stockholm can travell into any Coun∣trey where there is a faire without a passport: and at present seing there is no treaty of trade betwixt Eng∣land and Sweden, though the Eng∣lish bring as considerable a trade to that Kingdome, as any other Coun∣trey whatsoever, yet they are very unkindly used by the Officers of the custome house; whereas the Dutch, in Lubeck, and other cities have new and greater Priviledges allowed them. Nor would I Counsel an Englishman to goe to law with a Swedish Burgher in Sweden, espe∣cially if he be a Whiggish Scot who hath got his freedome in Stockholme, for those are a kind of skrapers, whom I have observed to be more invete∣rate against the English then the na∣tive Sweeds.

Of all the Swedish army of 64000 men, the King keeps but 12 Com∣panies of 200 men a peece, with some few horse guards in Stockholme, who are not upon duty as sentinels at the Court gates, as at the Courts of other Princes. The rest are di∣spersed into quarters and garrisons upon the fronteers which are so far distant in that large compass of land which his territories take up, that it would require a hard and tedious worck to bring them together to a generall muster. They are however kept under very strick discipline, and those that lye neare often viewed by the King. They have od sorts of punishments for the Souldiers and Officers of all degrees: for example if a Serjeant or Corporall be drunk or negligent on duty, they are put into armour, and with three muskets tied under each arm, made to walke two hours before the Court of guard: yet for all the seve∣ritie of discipline used against the

Soldiers, they commit many abuses in the night time, robbing and sometimes killing men upon the streets in Stockholme, where they have no lights nor guards as in Cop∣penhaguen. Informer times there have been at one time thirty five Collonels besides Generall Officers in the Swedish Army all the subjects of the King of great Britain, but at present there are few or none, unless it be the sons of some Scot∣tish Officers deceased; nor did I ever see an Englishman in the Kings guards horse or foot but one, and the son of Sr. Eduard wood, who hath since quitted the service. The King hath exceedingly won the hearts of the common people, not onely by exempting them from the tyrannical Jurisdiction of the nobi∣litie and gentry, who formerly would by their own private authority pu∣nish and put to death the peasants at their pleasure; which makes the Countries very willing to quarter the

Kings Soldiers, but by his exactness in punishing duels, murder and rob∣beries. Perjury is death here also as in Holland: which makes the Magistrates in some ports of this Kings territories enjoyne strange kinds of oaths to deter men from being forsworn. As for instance, in some places, the witness is set, with a staff in his hand, upon some peeble stones and charcoale, where he is to imprecate and pray, that if what he sweareth be not true, his land may become as barren as those stones, and his substance be consumed to ashes like the coals he stands on, which as soon as he steps down are set on fire. This manner of swearing so terrifies the people, that they commonly tremble when they come to take their oath.

The Religion of the dominions of the King of Sweden, as of those of the King of Denmark, and of other Princes and states whom wee

have named is Lutheran; who are more rigid to Roman Catho∣licks and Calvinists than the Pro∣testanrs of Germany. There is no tolleration allowed here to Calvi∣nist ministers; and they take an ef∣fectuall course to keep the Countrey clear of priests and Jesuits, by guel∣ding them whether they be young or old. In commemoration of the great losses and desolation instained in the late war, the Swedes strictly keep four fasting days in the months of April, May, June and July; on which days all men are prohibited by Authority to kindle fire in their houses, or to eat till after Evening service is don, which in the winter time could not be endured. They delight much in singing in their Churches, which they constantly performe twice every day, morning and evening. In their maryings, Christenings and buryings they are so prodigally extravagant, that if all three happen in one yeare to a

man of a competent estate, it is enough to breake him, The clergy of Sweden are neither so rich nor learned as those of Germany, wan∣ting both the opportunities of study, and of conversing with learned men, that those of other Countreys en∣joy; though there be some learned men amongst them. A Bishoprick in Sweden is no great benefice, if compared with some Personages in England; for the Archbishop and Metropolitan hath not above 400 L. per ann. and some of the rest are not worth above 150 or 200 L. a yeare. The inferiour Clergy are not so regular in their lives and conversation in the Countries di∣stant from Stockholme, as they are neare the court, and the reason is, partly becaus they entertain tra∣vellers that pass the Countrey, there being no Ins in most places for the accommodation of persons of any qualitie, and so are obliged to drink with their guests: and partly becaus

at buryings and Christenings, where there is commonly high drinking, the Pape or Parson is master of the Ceremonies; And here give mee leave, to tell a short story of one of them. A Pape comeing to Chri∣sten a Child in a Church, and find∣ing a Scottish man to be Godfa∣ther, was so transported either with Zeal or his cups, that when he came to exorcise the Child which is a rite used in their Office of Administring that Sacrament, He neglected the forme prescribed by the liturgie, and in an extemporary prayer begg'd that the devill might depart out of the Child, and enter into that Scottish Heretick; for so they call the Presbyterians of that nation. The prayer of the Pape so incensed the Scot that he vowed revenge, and watched the Pape with a good cudgell next day as he crossed the Church yard, where he beat him and left him all in blood lying on the ground and crying out murder.

For this fact the Scot was had before the Justice, who asking him how he durst be so bold as to lay his pro∣fane hands upon the man of God, He, who knew very well what use to make of the devill he had got, foaming at the mouth and cunningly acting the demoniack, made an∣swer that the Pape might thank himself for what he had met with; for since he had conjured the devill into him he spared no body, nei∣ther wife nor Children, nor would he spare the Justice himself, and with that sell a mangling and tearing the Magistrat, that he was fain to betake himself to his heeles, crying out O! the devill, save mee; and so the Scot marched home no man daring to lay hold on him, for fear of being torn to peeces by the de∣vill. But the Justice recollecting himself sent for the Pape, told him that the Scot was a cunning rogue, and bid him goe home, get a plai∣ster for his head and be silent; least

if the matter came to the Bishops ears, he might be censured for goeing against the rubrick of the liturgie.

The famous Universitie where their Clergy are bred is Ʋpsall eight Swedish miles from Stockholme. There are commonly 150 or 200 Students there, but no endowed colledges as in other Counrries. The library is so meane and con∣temptible that the libraries of many Grammar Schools and of privat men in England or Holland are far better stored with books then it is. Upon viewing of it, and that of the Kings Palace, I called to mind the saying of a French man, upon the like occasion; That Swedland came behind France and England in the knowledge of men and things at least 800 yeares; yet some Swedes have been so conceited of the an∣tiquity of their Countrey, as to bragg that Paradice was seated in Sweden, that the Countrey was

turned into such heaps of rocks for the rebellion of our first parents, and that Adam and Eve had Cain and Abel in a Countrey three Swe∣dish miles distant from Ʋpsall. A French man standing by and hearing this Romantick story, as I was told, fitted him with the like, tel∣ling him that when the world was made in six days, at the end of the creation all the Rubbish that re∣mained was throw'n together into a corner, which made up Sweden and Norway. And indeed the French seeme to have no great like∣ing to the Countrey, what ever kindness they may have for the peo∣ple, for a French Ambassadour, as an author of that Countrey relates, being by order of Queen Christina treated in a Countrey house 4 Swedish miles from Stockholme, and upon the rode goeing and co∣meing, with all the varieties and pleasures that the Countrey could affoard, on purpose to make him

have a good opinion of the same; made answere to the Queen (who asked him upon his return what he thought of Sweden) that were he master of the whole Countrey, he would presently sell it & buy a farme in France or England; which, under favour, I think was a litle tart and sawcy.

Having stayed a considerable time in Swedland, and most part at Stock∣holme, I set out from thence to goe to Elsenbourg by land, and went a litle out of my way to see a small city called Eubrone famous for a coat of Arms which it got in this manner. A certain Masculine Queen of Denmark who had conquered a great part of Sweden, comeing to this city, asked the Magistrates, what was the Arms of their city; who having told her that they had none, she plucked up her coats and squatting upon the Snow, bid them take the marke she left there for their Arms: It's pity she did not give them

a suitable motto to it also. What that figure is called in blazonerie I know not, but to this day the city uses it in their Armes, and for marking their commodities. This Queen came purposely into Swe∣den to pay a visit to a brave woman that opposed a King of Swedland, who in a time of famine would have put to death all the men and women in his Countrey above sixty years of age. The Countrey all the way I travelled in Swedland is much of the same qualitie of the land about Stockholme, untill I came neare the Province of Schonen which is cal∣led the store house and Kitchin of Sweden, where the Countrey is far better. It was formerly very dangerous to travell in this Pro∣vince of Schonen, becaus of the Snaphances who were a kind of bloody robbers, now utterly de∣stroyed by the King; so that it is safe enough travelling there. En∣tering into Schonen I saw twenty nine

of these rogues upon wheeles, and elsewhere in the Countrey, ten and twenty at severall places. The King used great severitie in destroy∣ing of them; some he caused to be broken upon the wheele, others spceted in at the fundament and out at the shoulders, many had the flesh pinched off of there breasts, and so were fastened to stakes till they died, and others again had their noses and both hands cut off, and being sea∣red with a hot Iron were let goe to acquaint their camerades how they had been served. The King is very severe against Highway-men and duellers. In above a hundred miles travelling, wee found not a house where there was either French wine or brandie, which made mee tell a Swede of our Company who was travelling to Denmark, that I would undertake to shew any man 500 houses wherein a traveller might have wine and other good accommodation in the space of an

hundred miles upon any rode from London. There are severall small towns and fertile land in this Coun∣trey of Schonen, lying upon the Sound; at the narrowest part whereof lies Elsenbourg burnt down by the Danes in the last war: Here I crost over to Elsenore, the passage being but a league broad.

The King of Denmark has a cas••le at Elsenore which commands the narrow passage of the Sound, where all Ships that enter into or come out of the Baltick sea must pay toll. Having visited this cas••le and stai'd about a fortnight with the English Consul, and S••. John Paul late resident at the Court of Swedland, I went to the danish Court at Coppenha∣guen.

Copenhaguen is the capitall city of Zeeland, Jutland or Denmark and place of residence of the King It stands on a flat, encompassed

with a pleasant and delightfull Coun∣trey much resembling England. The streets of the city are kept very neat and cleane, with lights in the night time for the convenience and safe∣tie of those who are then abroad; a custome not as yet introduced into Stockholme where it is dange∣rous to be abroad when it is dark. The Kings men of war lye here very conveniently, being orderly ranged betwixt Booms after the manner of Amsterdam, and neare the Admiralty house, which is a large pile of building well furnished with stores and Magazines, secured by a citadell, that not onely com∣mands the city, but also the Haven, and entrey into it. The Court of Denmark is splendid, and makes a far greater figure in the world then that of Sweden, tho not many yeares agoe in the time of Carolus Gustaphus the father of the present King of Swedland, it was almost reduced to its last, when the walls

of Copenhagen saved that Crown and Kingdome. That siege was famous, caried on with great vigour by the Swede, and as bravely maintained by the Danes: The monuments whereof are to be seen in the canon bullets gilt that still remain in the walls of some houses and in the steeple of the great Church of the town. The Royall palace in Copenhaguen is but small and a very ancient building, but his Majesties house Fredenburg is a stately fa∣brick of Modern Architecture, and very richly furnished. Denmark is at present a flourishing Kingdome and the King who hath now made it hereditary, surpasses most of his predecessours in power and wealth: He hath much enlarged his domi∣nions, aswell as Authority, and by his personall and Royall virtues, no less then the eminent qualities of a great many able ministers of State, he hath gained the universall love of his subjects, and the esteeme of

all forreigne Princes and States. The Court it much frequented eve∣ry day, but especially on Sundays where about eleven of the clock in the morning, the Nobility, for∣reigne Ministers, and Officers of the Army assemble and make a glo∣rious appeareance. There one may see many Knights of the order of the Elephant of Malto but I never saw any order of the like nature as that of Sweden, that King rarely appearing in his George and garter, but on days of publick audience I have observed at one time above 150 coaches attending at the Court of Denmark, which are ten times more than ever I saw together at that of Sweden. The King is affable and of easy access to strangers, seen often abroad by his subjects in his gardens and stables, which are very large and well furnished with all sorts of Horses. He is a great lover of English horses and dogs, and delights much in Hunting, as his

eldest son the Prince with his bro∣thers doe in cockfighting; in so much that the English Merchants can not make a more acceptable pre∣sent to those Princes, then of En∣glish game-cocks. The standing for∣ces of Denmark are well disciplined men, and commanded by good Officers both natives and stran∣gers, both French and Scots, as Major General Duncan, and Major General Veld••n both Scottish∣men, whom I saw at Copenhaguen. The Soldiers, aswell as courtiers are quartered upon the citizens, a cu∣stome which is likewise practised in Sweden, and tho somewhat uneasy, yet not repined at by the people who by the care and good govern∣ment of the King find trade much advanced. For his Majestie by en∣couraging strangers of all religions to live in his dominions, and allow∣ing the French and dutch Calvinists, to have publick Churches, hath brought many tradeing families to

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Coppenhaguen, and by the measure he hath taken for settling trade in prohibiting the importation of for∣reigne manufactures, and reforming and new modelling the East and West India Companies, hath much encreased commerce and thereby the wealth of his subjects; so that notwithstanding the new taxes im∣posed upon all coaches, waggons, Ploughs, and all reall and perso∣nall estates, which amount to con∣siderable summs of money, the people live very well and conten∣ted. There are commonly about eight thousand men in garison in Coppenhaguen, and his Majesties Re∣giment of foot guards who are all cloathed in red, with cloaks to keep them warm in the winter time, is a very handsome body of men, and with the horse guards who are bravely mounted, and have their gra∣nadeers and Hoboyes, make a very fine shew. His Majestie hath cau∣sed severall new fortifications to be

built upon the Elb, and other rivers, and hath now in his possession that strong Castle called Hilgueland, at present commanded by a Scottish∣man. The Queen of Denmark is a most virtuous Princess, sister to the present Landgrave of Hessel-Cassel, and in persuasion a Calvi∣nist, having a chappell allowed her within the Court; though the pu∣blick religion of the King and King∣dome be Lutheran. The Clergie here are learned, many of them having studied at Oxford and Cam∣bridge where they learnt the English language, and amongst the Bishops there is one Doctor King the son of a Scottishman. But seing it is my designe rather to observe the con∣dition of the people, then to be punctuall in describing all the rari∣ties that are remarkeable in the Countries I have been in, I shall conclude what I have to say of Den∣mark, by acquainting the Reader that the people of that Countrey

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live far better then the Swedes, and aswell as most of their adjoyning neighbours; and that there are seve∣rall places, both there and in Nor∣way which have the names of En∣glish towns, as Arundale, Totness, London &c.

When I fist began to write this treatise, I had some thoughts of making observations upon the seve∣rall governments of other States and Dominions, where I had travelled some years before I was in the Countries I have been speaking of, as of the rest of Germany, Hun∣gary, Switzerland, Italy and France; but that was a subject so large, and the usefulness of it to my present designe so inconsiderable, that by doeing so, I found I could neither satisfie the curious, by adding any thing materiall to those many who have already obliged the publick by the remarks of their travells in those places; or make my discontented Countrey men more averse then

they are already from removing into those Countries, where I think few of them will chuse to transport themselves for the sake of liberty and Propertie, tho England were even worse, than they themselves fancy it can be. All that remains to be done then, is to conclude this trea∣tise with an obvious and popular remark, that those Countries where cities are greatest and most frequen∣ted by voluntary inhabitants, are alwayes the best to live in; and by comparing the city of London with all other cities of Europe, and de∣monstrating by the surveys I have made (which I think will hardly be contradicted or confuted,) that of all the capitall cities of Europe it is the biggest and most populous, & so prove consequentially that England, for the generality of people, is the best Countrey in the world espe∣cially for its natives to live in. Now this being an observation, (for what I know) not hitherto made

good by induction and instance, (as I intend to doe it) I hope it will please the Reader as much, as if I gave him a particular account of other Countreys and governments, and leave it to his own reflexion to State the comparison.

Though London within the walls cannot vie for bigness with many cities of Europe; yet take the city and suburbs together, according as it hath been surveyed by Mr. Morgan, in breadth from St. Georges Church in Southwarke to Shore ditch, and in length from Limehouse to petty France in West∣minster and it is in a vast proportion larger in compass of ground and number of houses then any city whatsoever in Europe. This I shall demonstrate first by compare∣ing it with some cities of Hol∣land, and then with the most con∣siderable cities of the other Coun∣tries of Europe, which I shall set down in an alphabeticall order with

the number of the houses they seve∣rally contain.

When London and suburbs was surveyed some years agoe by Mr. Morgan, there were reckoned to be in it 84000 houses besides hospi∣talls, Almeshouses, and other buildings that payed no chimney money to the King: Now if those were added, and the vast number of new houses that have been built since that survey, upon modest computation London may be recko∣ned to countain 100000 houses; I know the French doe vapour and would perswade the world that Pa∣ris is much bigger then London. And the Hollanders will scarce be∣lieve that London hath more Houses then the 18 Cittyes in Holland that have voyces in the States, for say they Amsterdam Stands upon a 1000 Morgens land, and London Stands but upon 1800; To both which I answer, that it is very true that Paris takes up a great spot of ground,

but then you must consider, that in Paris there are severall hundreds of Monasteries, Churches, Coledges, and Cloysters, some of them haveing large Gardens, and that in Paris there are 7500 Palaces and Ports for Coaches, which have likewise great Gardens, whereas London is very thick built, and in the Citty the Houses have scarce a Yard big enough to sett a Pump, or House of conveniency in; but the weekely bills of Mortality will decide this Question and plainely give it to London, and so doth Mons: la Cour, and Sir. William Pette in his last Essayes dedicated lately to our King, makeing it appeare that London is bigger then Paris, Rhoan, and Ro∣chell altogether; and as for Amfler∣dam I doe appeale to all knowing men that have seen it, that although it be true that it Stands upon 1000 Morgens Land; yet there is not above 400 Morgens built, and this I prove thus, that the large Gardens,

on the Heeregraft, Kysersgraft, and Princegraft, and the Burgwalls of Amsterdam take up more then a third part of the Citty, then reckon the Bastions, and the space of Ground betweene the Wall, and the Houses, and all the Ground unbuilt from the Ʋtricks-Port, to the Wesoper-Port, Muyer-Port, and so to the Seaside, and you will find it to be near 300 Morgens land: There are 2 Parishes in the Sub∣urbs of London, viz Stepney, and St. Martins in the feilds, (the later being so big that the last Parlement divided it into 4 Parishes,) either of them have more Houses then Rotterdam, or Harlem, and there are severall other great Parishes as St. Margrets - Westminster, St. Giles in the feilds, Toolyes, and St. Mary Overs, the which if they stood apart in the Country would make great Cittyes, wee reckon in London and the Suburbs thereof to be at least 130 Parishes, which containe

100000 Houses, now if you reckon 8 persons to everie house then there are neare 800000 soules in London, but there are some that say there is a million of soules in it; I shall now set downe the Cittyes Alphabe∣tically and their number of Houses as they were given to me not only from the Surveyours and Citty Car∣penters, but from the Bookes of the Herthmoney, and bookes of the Verpoundings, where such Taxes are payd; and first I shall begin with the 18 Cittyes that have Voyces in the States of Holland.

Cittyes

Houses.

DOrt.

5500

Harlem.

7250

Delph.

2300

Leyden.

13800

Amsterdam.

25460

Rotterdam.

8400

Tergoe.

3540

Gorcom.

2460

Schiedam.

1550

Brill.

1250

Schonehoven.

2200

Alckmaar.

1540

Horn.

3400

Enckhuysen.

5200

Edam.

2000

Monekendam.

1500

Medenblick.

850

Purmerent.

709

Cittyes in Germany and in the 17 Provinces.

Cittyes

Houses.

ANtwerp.

18550

Aix la Chapell.

2250

Arford.

8440

Berlin.

5200

Bonn.

410

Bresack.

1200

Breme.

9200

Breda.

3420

Bolduke.

6240

Bergen op Zome.

2120

Brussels.

19200

Cologne

12000

Cleave.

640

Coblins.

420

Castells.

1520

Dresden.

6420

Disseldorpe.

620

Dunkirk.

2440

Emden.

2400

Francford.

10200

Groningen.

8400

Guant.

18200

Harford,

1420

Hanover.

1850

Heidelberg.

7520

Hamburg.

12500

Lubeck,

6500

Louain.

8420

Lypsick.

3240

Lunenburg,

3100

Cittyes in France.

Cittyes

Houses.

AVinion.

12400

Amiens.

5200

Bullion.

1400

Bomont.

800

Burdeaux.

8420

Calis.

1324

Cane.

2147

Chalon.

1850

Diepe.

1920

Lyons

16840

Montruill.

820

Monpiller.

5240

Marsellis.

9100

Nantes.

4420

Nemes.

3120

Orlians.

10200

Orange.

354

Paris.

72400

Rochell.

4200

Roan.

11200

Tolonze.

13200

Valance.

458

Lewardin.

5860

Mayance.

2420

Malin.

8000

Middelburg.

6200

Madelburg.

1120

Mastricht.

5600

Munster.

1240

Nurenberg.

18240

Osenburg.

2200

Osburg.

8420

Oldenburg.

620

Praag.

18640

Passaw.

560

Ratisbone.

6540

Strasburg.

8560

Spire.

540

Stockholme.

6480

Solsburg.

12460

Ʋtrick▪

8240

Viana.

4520

Vean.

340

Wormes.

1200

Westburg.

2420

Cittyes in Italy.

Cittyes

Houses.

BOlonie.

12400

Florance.

8520

Janua.

17200

Luca.

1650

Legorne.

3560

Milan.

18500

Napells.

17840

Pesa.

2290

Padua.

8550

Rome.

31200

Sena.

1820

Venetia.

24870

Veterba.

620

Valentia.

1520

Cittyes in Savoy.

Cittyes

Houses.

CHambray.

852

Salé.

320

Turin.

8540

Nece.

500

St. John de Latteran.

420

Remes.

340

Moloy.

270

Cittyes in Switserland.

Cittyes

Houses.

BErne.

4270

Ball.

5120

Geneve.

4540

Losana

2100

Solure.

500

Zurick

6200

Morge.

210

Vina.

320

St. Morrice.

300

Cittyes in Denmark.

Cittyes

Houses.

COpenhagen.

8220

Elsenore.

 

Cittyes in Sweedland.

Cittyes

Houses.

NOrthoanen.

600

Stockholme,

7500

Ʋpsall.

8200

FINIS.