The preachers trauels Wherein is set downe a true iournall to the confines of the East Indies, through the great countreyes of Syria, Mesopotamia, Armenia, Media, Hircania and Parthia. With the authors returne by the way of Persia, Susiana, Assiria, Chaldæa, and Arabia. Containing a full suruew of the knigdom [sic] of Persia: and in what termes the Persian stands with the Great Turke at this day: also a true relation of Sir Anthonie Sherleys entertainment there: and the estate that his brother, M. Robert Sherley liued in after his departure for Christendome. With the description of a port in the Persian gulf, commodious for our East Indian merchants; and a briefe rehearsall of some grosse absudities [sic] in the Turkish Alcoran. Penned by I.C. sometimes student in Magdalen Colledge in Oxford.

The description of SYRIA.

FIrst the greatnesse of the Kingdome of Sy∣ria, which confronteth East-ward on Me∣sopotamia; South-ward on Arabia; North-ward on Cylicia, and Asia the lesse; and West-ward on Tyre and Sydon, and the bot∣tome of the Mediterranean-Sea. The o∣ther the diuision of the said Kingdome, which deuideth it selfe into fiue notable Prouinces: viz. Palestina, Foeni∣tia, Celestria, Syria, and Camogena. The last of which fiue is that part which runneth vp to the Riuer Euphrates, and to the confines of Armenia, in which standeth the great and wealthy City of Aleppo. This Kingdome of Syria hath diuers Cities of importance, but my purpose is to speake but of those, which my Iournall leadeth me vn∣to, and which my eyes haue seene: viz. Tripolis, Hamath, Antioch, and Aleppo.

The description of Tripolis.

TRipolis is a Towne which standeth vnder a part of Mount Lybanus, two English miles distant from a certaine Port, which trendeth in the forme of an halfe Moone, hauing on the one side thereof fiue block-houses, or small Forts, wherein is very good Artillery, and ••ept by an hundred Ianizaries. This City is as great as Bristow, and walled about, the walles being of no great force. The chiefest strength is a Citadell, which standeth on the South side within the walles, and ouer-lookes the whole Towne, and is strongly kept with two hundred Ianizaries, and good Artillery. Through the midst of this City passeth a Riuer, wherewith they water their Gardens and Mulbery

trees, in such sort that there grow on them abundance of silke wormes, where with the Inhabitants makes great store of very white silke, which is the chiefest naturall commodi∣ty in and about this place. Finally, this roade of Tarapolos or Trapolos, commonly called Tripolis, was more frequen∣ted (before Scanderone was found out) with all sorts of Christian Merchants, as Venetians, Genouis, Florentines, Marsilians, Sicilians, Raguses, and English men, then any other Port of the great Turks Dominions. Some say that the Scale is againe translated from Scanderone thither, but how true it is, I leaue to the Merchants to report. One inconuenience this Towne is subiect vnto: for right be∣fore it toward the Sea is a banke of mouing sand, which gathereth and increaseth with the Westerne winds in such sort, that according to an old prophesie amongst them, this banke is like to swallow vp and ouerwhelme the Towne: for euery yeare it increaseth more and more, and eateth vp many Gardens and Orchards, albeit they vse all pollicy to diminish the same, and to make it firme ground.

The description of Hamath.

THree dayes iourney from this Towne in the mid-way to Aleppo standeth Hamath, a City of great Anti∣quity, and very famous in the Scripture: for it was deliue∣red vp into the hands of Dauid by Toi, who was King of the same. It standeth on a very goodly plaine, replenished a∣bundantly with cornemand cotton-wooll; but is much rui∣nated, and falleth more and more to decay, and at this day there is scarse one halfe of the wall standing, which hath beene very faire and strong: but because it cost many mens liues to winne it; the great Turke will not haue it repaired, commanding these wordes to be set ouer the Castle gate, which standeth in the midst of the Towne, in the Arabian tongue: Cursed be the Father and the Sonne, that shall lay their hands to the repairing of this place.

The description of Antioch.

NOt farre from this Towne is the famous City An∣tioch, which in ancient time was called Epidaphane, or Epiphane, and of the Hebrewes Reblatha, sometime the Seate of the Syrian Kings, and afterwards the Metropoliti∣call City of Syria, hauing vnder it an hundred and fifty Bi∣shops: famous for many things, but amongst the rest, be∣cause it was the seate of the blessed Apostle S^t. Peter, and because it was the first place, where the professors of Chri∣stian religion tooke the name of Christians. This City ly∣eth vpon the Riuer Orontes, in Scripture called Farfar, about twelue miles from the Sea, and was once strongly fortified both by nature on the one side by high broken Mountaines, and on the other side by Art, being compas∣sed about with a double wall, the vttermost whereof is of hard stone, of an huge bignesse, and the other of bricke with foure hundred and sixty towers on the same, and an impregnable Castle at the East-end thereof, whereunto was ioyning a deepe lake, comming out of the great Ri∣uer, which wa••ereth the South-side of the City.

But in the yeare of Grace 1187. Saladin Sultan of Ae∣gypt, dealt so cunningly with the Patriarke, that by his meanes the Castle (otherwise almost impregnable) was for gold betrayed vnto him. By meanes whereof Saladin in a short time, became Lord and Master of that famous City (which was hardly gained by the whole power of the Christians, after eleuen moneths siege) and with it fiue and twenty Cities moe, that depended of the fortune thereof, with all the Prouinces belonging thereunto; and so now at this day the splendor and beauty thereof is altogether Eclipsed by the Turkes, there resting and remaining in the midst of the ruinous walles a small village to be seene.

Close by the walles of this ruinous Towne runneth the Riuer Orontes, which courseth through the large and spa∣cious

plaine of Antioch, being numbred amongst the fa∣mous riuers of Syria, whose bankes I haue viewed, euen from his springing head to his maine channell, which is neere to Selencia Pieria, now called Soldin. This riuer a∣mongst the Turkes and Arabians hath quite lost his aunci∣ent name: but because it runneth very swiftly in his course, and hath many turnings and windings, (so that those that swimme in it are oftentimes drowned) as though the poore riuer had in that respect the nature of a murderer; therefore the Turkes and the Moores doe now giue it a name, that expresly signifieth a murderer or traytor.

The description of Aleppo.

FRom this miserable towne we spent a dayes iourney and halfe to the rich and wealthy Citie of Aleppo, which in ancient time was called Heliopolis, and was that ancient Haram mentioned so often in Scripture. The Moores doe call it Halip, which in our tongue signifieth milke, for the same Arabians doe say, that it was so called for the a∣bundance of milke, which in the time of the Patriarkes was y••elded by the heards and flockes of cattell, which fed in those champaines. This Citie standeth in the Prouince of Camogena, which runneth vp to Euphrates, and to the confines of Armenia, and is now become the third capitall citie of the Turkish Empire. And well it may be so accoun∣ted, since it is the greatest place of traffique for a dry towne in all those parts: for hither resort Iewes, Tartarians, Per∣sians, Armenians, Egyptians, Indians, & many sorts of Chri∣stians, all enioying freedome of conscience, and bringing thither all kindes of rich merchandise: the trade and traf∣ficke of which place, because it is so well known to most of our nation, I omit to write of.

The ayre of this Citie is much pleasing and delightfull to a sound and healthfull body, but very piercing and dange∣rous for such as haue receiued any contagion at Scanderon;

and therefore it is not good for any passenger to lie long at that roade, but to hasten at his first arriuall so soone as he can vp farder into the Countrey. This City lyeth vpon the Riuer Singa, which as some report a Souldier of Grand Caire drew from Euphrates, and hath a channell vnder ground, which produceth many fountaines both publike and priuate, yeelding no small pleasure and contentment to the inhabitants. It containeth in circuit foure hils, vpon one of which is raised a goodly Castle, hauing a deepe ditch intrenched round about, and a bridge ascending step by step, with foure gates, before you can passe into the Ca∣stle it selfe, being guarded with a strong and sure garrison of foure or fiue hundred Ianizaries, both to curbe the re∣bellion of the City, and to keep it from forraigne inuasion. The walles of this City are about three English miles in compasse, and the suburbs almost as much more: and round about for foure miles space are goodly Gardens, Or∣chards, and Vineyards, which beare abundance of delicate fruits, and of the best Wines, which are notwithstanding very deare, by reason of the quantity thereof, that there is sold and eaten. The number of people which resort to this City may easily be comprehended, sith betweene the City and the suburbs in the yeare of Grace 1555. there dyed of the plague more then an hundred and twenty thousand persons in three Moneths. No building of importance is here to be seen, saue the Temples or Moschees, and Caines, all fabricated of hard quarry stone, arched and vaulted with Cesternes full of water in the middest of the Courts. In a word this City is one of the most famous Marts of the East: the customes that are paied by our English nation, the French, the Venetians, the huge Carauans, which come from Balsara, Persia, Mecha, are exceeding great, and therefore may well obtayne the third place of the Turkish Empire.

Neuerthelesse it hath indured diuers changes and sundry alterations, being in the yeare 1177. betrayed and taken

from the Christians by Saladin Sultan of Damascus; but afterwards in the yeare 1260. it was againe recouered by Haalon the Tartar, who hauing receiued the Christian faith was sent of purpose by Mango the great Cham of Tartary a Christian also, with a puissant army and a world of people to releeue the distressed Christians in Syria; and so Haalon with Hayton king of Armenia, scouring through the Countries of Persia, Asiria, and Mesopotamia, in the end entred into Syria, and in a few dayes tooke Aleppo, sacking and razing it downe to the ground. But it conti∣nued not so long; for afterwards being repaired by the Christians, it was againe taken by the Sultans of Aegypt, who possessed it many yeares, but in the yeare 1516. when Campson Ganrus raigned in Aegypt, it was peaceably deli∣uered vp by Cayerbeius the Traitor, into the hands of Se∣lymus the first, who fauourably tooke the Citizens into his protection; and the more to winne their hearts, graunted vnto them greater priuiledges then they had in former time inioyed. And so euer since hath continued vnder the Turkish Gouernment, hauing vnder the regiment thereof, fiue and twenty thousand Timarriots, that is to say, Pensio∣ners, which are all horsemen, so called of Timaro, that is a stipend, which they haue of the Grand Signeor, viz. the possession of certaine Villages and Townes, which they hold during their life, and for which they stand bound. For euery threescore Duckates of yearlie reuennew, to main∣taine one horseman either with bow and arrowes, or else with Target and Lance, and that as well in time of peace, as in time of warre.

Hauing rested in Aleppo two Moneths and better, M^r. Iohn Mildenab and my selfe tooke our leaue of the Consull and Merchants, with a full intent and purpose to trauell vnto the great City Lahor, in the great Mogors Countrey in the East Indies: lodging all that night on a thinne Turkish Carpet in woods-caine, where the Cara∣uan was assembled, to the end that we might bee with the

foremost: for delay in such trauell doth produce great and ineuitable danger. From Aleppo we spent three daies iour∣ney vnto the bankes of Euphrates, passing by many villages not worth the naming, and fertile plaines, abounding with all sort of prouision necessary for mans life. One of those Villages is a Village of note vnto this day, called by the Countrey people Tedith, where the Iewes keepe a monu∣ment in remembrance of the great Synagogue holden there in the yeare from the Creation 3498. For after the twelue Tribes were by Salmanazar King of the Assirians led cap∣tiue into a Country neuer inhabited by any before, a yeare and halfe iourney; so as men in this age trouble their wits to know where they remaine, in the East or West Indies, in Tartaria or Moscouia, and new inhabitants in their place; I say, it so fell out that after the captiuity of Babylon, an hundred and twenty men of the chiefest of the Iewes held a Synode at the aforesaid Village, of which Esdras was the Scribe, at which Synode (as the Rabbins affirme) were pre∣sent, Nehemias, Mardocheus, Zorababel, Ioshua the high Priest, Daniel, Ananias, Azarias, Misael, Haggeus, Zacharias, and Malachiah, and placed the bookes of the old Testament in the same order as now they are, and chan∣ged the hebrew characters (the figure T excepted) into the Assirian characters, which is the square forme vsed at this day: and changed the Hebrew tongue into the Armenian tongue, but that was altered afterward, and the right He∣brew tongue restored.

Neare vnto this Towne is the Valley of Salt, memora∣ble for that great ouerthrow which Dauid gaue the Ara∣mits, when he slew of them in one battell eighteene thou∣sand men. Here also Campson Gaurus the great Sultan of Aegypt fought that deadly and mortall battell with Sely∣mus the first, the great Turke; where hee lost his life being troden, without regard, to death, both by his owne Soul∣diers and pursuing enemies, after he had with great Maie∣sty gouerned the Kingdome of Aegypt, Iudea, and Syria

many yeares; and together with the losse of his life and o∣uerthrow of his army, he lost the great and populous King∣dome of Aegypt, which he and his predecessours had got∣ten and kept by martiall prowesse aboue the space of three hundred yeares.

Being arriued on the bankes of Euphrates, we found it as broade as the Thames at Lambith; but in some places it is narrower, in some broader, running with a very swift streame and current, almost as fast as the Riuer of Trent. At this place doth this Riuer beginne to take his name, be∣ing here all gathered into one channell, whereas before it commeth downe from the lake Chieldor-Giol in Armenia, in manifold armes and branches, and therefore is called by the Countrey people, by a name which signifieth a thou∣sand heads. Here it is that Merchants vse to passe downe by Barke vnto Babylon, thereby to auoide and shunne the great charge and wearisomnesse of trauell through the de∣sart of Arabia. Which passage they make sometimes in fifteene dayes, sometimes in twenty dayes, and sometimes in thirty dayes, answerable to the rising and falling of the Riuer: and the best time to passe thither is either in Aprill or October, when the Riuer doth swell with abundance of r••ine. The Boates are flat bottomed, because the Riuer is shallow in many places; so that when they trauell in the Moneths of Iuly, August, and September, they finde the Riuer at so low an ebbe, that they are faine to carry with them a spare Boate or two, to lighten their owne, if they should chance to fall on the shoales. Euery night after Sunne-set, they fasten these Boats to a stake, the Merchants lying aboord, and the Marriners vpon the shore, as neare as they can vnto the same. In this passage downe the Ri∣uer, you shall meete with diuers troupes of Arabians, who will barter their prouision of dyet (for they care not for money) as Hennes, Kids, Lambe, Butter, and sowre milke, for Glasses, Combes, Corall, Amber, Kniues, Bread and Pomegranates, Pilles, wherewith they vse to tanne their

Goates skinnes, in which they Churne withall. All of them, as well Women, Children, and Men are very good swim∣mers, who oftentimes will swimme to the Barke side with vessels full of milke vpon their heads. These people are ve∣ry theeuish, and therefore in your passage downe good watch must be kept.

But to returne where we left, wee were constrained by the deepnesse of the riuer to ferry ouer our whole Carauan, which consisted of a thousand persons, besides Camels, Horses, Mules, and Asses, by reason of which multitude we spent a whole day in transporting ouer the said Carauan. The gaines of which transportation yeelded the ferriman a Shaughoe, which is fiue pence English vpon a beast. It was the manner of the Aegyptian Sultanes, not to account themselues worthy of the name of Sultanes, or great Gene∣rall, before they had incamped their army vpon this side of the Riuer and in this place, and there with solemne pompe had in the sight of the army, forced their horses into the Ri∣uer to drinke; giuing to vnderstand by that ceremony, the greatnesse of their Empire, and that they were ready by force of armes to proue, that all those Countries were theirs, which lay along the Riuer from the Mountaine Taurus, vnto the desart of Arabia.

Notes

• Numb. 13.22. 1. Chro. 1.16. 2. Sam. 8.9.
• The Riuer O∣rontes.
• The Riuer Synga.
• Cain••s are storehouses for forraigne Mer∣chants.
• A Carauan is a great ma∣ny of Camels ladē, not much vnlike our car∣riers here in England.
• Tedith a Vil∣lage of note, for the Great Synode holden there by the chiefest Iewes, for the refor∣mation of the old Testamēt.
• The Valley of Salt. 2. Sam. 8.13.