Britain, or A chorographicall description of the most flourishing kingdomes, England, Scotland, and Ireland, and the ilands adjoyning, out of the depth of antiquitie beautified vvith mappes of the severall shires of England: vvritten first in Latine by William Camden Clarenceux K. of A. Translated newly into English by Philémon Holland Doctour in Physick: finally, revised, amended, and enlarged with sundry additions by the said author.

About this Item

Title
Britain, or A chorographicall description of the most flourishing kingdomes, England, Scotland, and Ireland, and the ilands adjoyning, out of the depth of antiquitie beautified vvith mappes of the severall shires of England: vvritten first in Latine by William Camden Clarenceux K. of A. Translated newly into English by Philémon Holland Doctour in Physick: finally, revised, amended, and enlarged with sundry additions by the said author.
Author
Camden, William, 1551-1623.
Publication
London :: Printed by F. K[ingston] R. Y[oung] and I. L[egatt] for George Latham,
1637.
Rights/Permissions

This text has been selected for inclusion in the EEBO-TCP: Navigations collection, funded by the National Endowment for the Humanities. To the extent possible under law, the Text Creation Partnership has waived all copyright and related or neighboring rights to this keyboarded and encoded edition of the work described above, according to the terms of the CC0 1.0 Public Domain Dedication ( http://creativecommons.org/publicdomain/zero/1.0/). This waiver does not extend to any page images or other supplementary files associated with this work, which may be protected by copyright or other license restrictions. Please go to http://www.textcreationpartnership.org/ for more information.

Link to this Item
http://name.umdl.umich.edu/A17832.0001.001
Cite this Item
"Britain, or A chorographicall description of the most flourishing kingdomes, England, Scotland, and Ireland, and the ilands adjoyning, out of the depth of antiquitie beautified vvith mappes of the severall shires of England: vvritten first in Latine by William Camden Clarenceux K. of A. Translated newly into English by Philémon Holland Doctour in Physick: finally, revised, amended, and enlarged with sundry additions by the said author." In the digital collection Early English Books Online. https://name.umdl.umich.edu/A17832.0001.001. University of Michigan Library Digital Collections. Accessed April 28, 2025.

Pages

Page 504

[ A]

CORITANI. [ B]

NOw must wee passe on to the CORITANI, who beyond the ICENI dwelling further within the Land, and sprea∣ding themselves very farre through the Mediterranean part of the Island, inhabited as farre as to the German O∣cean, to wit in these Countries which now are commonly called NORTHAMPTON-SHIRE, LEICE∣STER-SHIRE, [ C] RUTLAND-SHIRE, LINCOLN-SHIRE, NOT∣TINGHAM-SHIRE, and DERBY-SHIRE. With the Etymology of this their name I will not once meddle, for feare least putting downe in∣certainties for certaine and undoubted trueths, I may seeme to slip into an errour. For, although this People were spread farre and wide, which GUR-TATI signifieth in the British tongue, yet if I would boldly avouch, that these were thence called CORITANI, should I not play hazard at all aventure? Let them, for mee, guesse more safely, who can more [ D] happily. As for mee, I will in the meane time according to my purpose survey as diligently as I may these shires which I have now named, each one by it selfe orderly in their se∣verall places.

Page [unnumbered]

Page [unnumbered]

[illustration]

Page [unnumbered]

[illustration]
NORTHAMTONIAE COMITATVS DESCRIPTIO IN QVO CORITANI OLIM IN SEDERVNT

Page [unnumbered]

Page 505

[ A]

NORTHAMPTON-SHIRE.

THis County of NORTHAMPTON, in the English-Saxon tongue 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, and Northanton-shire, commonly called Northampton-shire, situate in the very middle and heart, as it were, of England, from the South-West side, where it is broadest, drawing it selfe narrower by little and little, reacheth out in length to the North-East. On the East lie Bedford and [ B] Huntingdon-shires: on the South Buckingham and Oxford∣shires: Westward Warwickshire: and Northward Rutland∣shire, and Lincoln-shire, separated from it by Avon the lesse, and Welland, two Ri∣vers. The East side thereof, from Ouse to Dowbridge, one of the Romane high waies which they call Watling-streat runneth through: The middle and East part the Ri∣ver Nen, which by Writers is named also Aufona, with his gentle streame parteth in twaine. A champian countrey it is, exceeding populous, and passing well furnished with Noblemens and Gentlemens houses, replenished also with Townes and Chur∣ches, in so much as in some places there are twenty, and in others thirty Steeples with Spires or square Towres within view at once. The Soile very fertile both for [ C] tillage and for pasture, yet nothing so well stored with Woods, unlesse it bee in the further and hither sides. But in every place, as elsewhere also in England, it is over-spred and as it were beset with Sheepe:* 1.1 which according as that Hythodaus merrily said, Were wont to bee so gentle and fed with so little; but now in our daies, as the report goes, beginne to bee so ravenous and wilde, that they devour men, they waste and depo∣pulate fields, houses, and Towneships.

On the South border, where the River Ouse so often mentioned first springeth, in a place rising with an easie ascent, and out of which there walme Springs in great plen∣ty, standeth Brakley, as one would say a place full of Brake or Ferne, in old time a fa∣mous Mercat Towne and staple as it were for wool: which how large and wealthy [ D] it was, it maketh now demonstration to travailers, only by the ruines thereof; and by a Major, whom it hath for the chiefe Magistrate. The Zouches Lords of the place, founded a College there: from whom it came successively as a possession in marri∣age right unto the Hollands and the Lovels. But when Lord Lovell in King Henry the Seventh his time was attainted, the Stanleies became Lords of it by the Kings gift. But the College there, at this day ruinous, belongeth to the Students of Mawdlen College in Oxford, who use it for a retyring place. Neither came this place to the least name and reputation that it had, by occasion of the memory of Saint Rumbald a young Infant, who as wee finde written in his life, being a Kings sonne, so soone as ever he was borne, after he had spoken I know not what holy words, and professed [ E] himselfe to be a Christian, was forthwith baptised, and so presently dyed, and being canonized by the people amongst the Saints, had his commemoration kept both here and at Buckingham.

From hence Northward, when we had gone six miles forward, and all the way well wooded, first we saw Astwell, where Sir T. Billing sometime Lord chiefe Justice in the Kings Bench with great state dwelt: from whom it descended hereditarily to the Shirleis by the ancient Family of the Lovels: then Wedon and Wapiham, which the Family of the Pinkeneys held by Barony,* 1.2 untill that H. de Pinkney ordained King Ed∣ward the First his heire. Whom being a right good and excellent Prince many evill men made their heire; whereas (according to Tacitus) a good father maketh no [ F] Prince, but a bad one his heire. Then came we straight waies to TRIPONTIUM, which Antonine the Emperour mentioneth, though not in due place: For, I am of opinion, that this was the very same, which now we call Torcester: and to prove it, there be some arguments of moment as yet remaining. If Trimontium in Thracia had that name of three hils, Triturrita in Tuskane of three Towres, and Tripolis like∣wise

Page 506

of three Cities conjoyned in one; I have no reason to doubt, that this TRIPON∣TIUM [ A] of ours, might be so called of three Bridges. And heere at this Torcester the Roman Port way which in many places most evidently sheweth it selfe betweene it and Stony stratford, is cut through by three speciall Chanels or streames that the little Ri∣ver there divideth it selfe into; which in times past, like as at this day had of necessi∣ty there severall Bridges over them. Now, if you ask a Britain, how he saith in British [Three Bridges] you shall heare him by and by answer [Taer ponte]: and there be cer∣taine honest men, from whom I have received heere peeces of Romane Coine, that constantly avouch, the true name of this place to be Torcester, and think it was so cal∣led of Towres. Howbeit Marianus nameth it Touecester, if the booke be not faulty, in whom we read, that this towne was so fortified in the yeer of our Redemption 917. [ B] that the Danes by no meanes could winne it by assault: and that King Edward the el∣der afterwards compassed it about with a stone Wall; yet wee with all our seeking could see no tokens of any such Wall. Only there is a Mount remaining cast up with mens hands, they call it Berihill, now turned into private mens Gardens, and planted on every side with Chery trees. And very time it selfe hath so conquered and subdu∣ed the towne, that beholden it is to the situation, to the name, and old Coines other whiles heere found, for that esteeme which it hath of antiquity. For, no memorable thing there is in it but one onely Church that it hath; and the same is a large and faire building, wherein D. Sponde sometime the Parson thereof, by report, a good be∣nefactor to Church and towne both, lieth entombed within a tombe of fine and cu∣rious [ C] workemanship. But hard by, at Easton-Nesson, there is to bee seene, a faire and beautifull dwelling house belonging to the Knightly Family of the Farmrs.

The River that watereth Torcester, as it goeth from hence toward Ouse, runneth be∣side Grafton, which now is reputed an Honor of the Kings, but in times past was the seat of the Family de Widdevil: out of which came Richard, a man highly renowned for his vertue and valour: who for that he tooke to wife Iaquet the widow of John Duke of Bedford, and daughter to Peter of Luxenburgh, Earle of Saint Paul, without the Kings licence, was by King Henry the Sixth fined at a thousand pounds of our mo∣ney. Yet afterwards he advanced the same Richard to the honorable Title of Baron Widdevil de Rivers. With whose daughter Dame Elizabeth, King Edward the Fourth [ D] secretly contracted marriage:* 1.3 and verily hee was the first of all our Kings since the Conquest that married his subject. But thereby, he drew upon himselfe and his wives kinsfolke a world of troubles, as yee may see in our Histories. The said Richard Wid∣devil Lord of Rivers, Grafton, and de la Mote, by king Edward the Fourth now his son in Law, was erected (these be the very words out of the Charter of his creation) to be Earle Rivers, by cincture of the sword, To have unto him and his heires, with the Fee of 20. pounds, by the hands of the Sheriffe of Northampton. And soone after he was with exceeding great honour ordained High Constable of England, (I speake out of the kings Patent it selfe) To occupy, manage, and execute that Office, either by himselfe, or by sufficient Deputies for terme of life, receiving yearely two hundred pounds out of the [ E] Exchequer,* 1.4 with full power and authority to take examinations, and to proceede in Causes of and concerning the crime of high Treason, or the occasion thereof: also to heare, examine, and in due time to determine the causes and businesses aforesaid, with all and singular matters arising from them, incident to them, or conjoyned therewith, even summarily, and in any place whatsoever below, without noise or formall order of Iudgement, onely upon sight of the Truth of the fact, and with the Kings hand and power, if it shall be thought meete in our behalfe, without all appeale. Moreover about that time he was made Lord Treasurer of England. But he having enjoyed these honours a small while, was soone after in the quarrell of the king his sonne in Law, aforesaid, taken in the battaile at Edgcote, and beheaded. And albeit, in his sonnes this offspring, as it were halfe dead, tooke an end, [ F] what time as Anthony Earle Rivers was by Richard the third made shorter by the head, Richard also and his other brethren dead without issue: yet from the daugh∣ters there did spred forth most faire and fruitfull branches. For, out of them flowred the royall Race and line of England, the Marquesses of Dorset, the Earles of Essex,

Page 519

[ A] Earles of Arundel, Earles of Worcester, Earles of Derby, the last Duke of Buckingham, and Barons of Stafford.

Just behinde Grafton lieth Sacy Forrest stored with Deere and fit for game.* 1.5 More Eastward, the Country all over is besprinkled with Villages and little Townes, a∣mong which, these are of greatest name, Blisworth, the habitation of the Wakes de∣scended from that honorable race of the Barons of Wake and Estotevile: Pateshull, which gave name to the most worshipfull family in times past of the Pateshuls: Greenes-Norton, so named of the Greenes men in the fore-going age right famous for their wealth: But it was called in foretime (if I be not deceived) Norton Dany, which those Greenes held by knights service, as also a moity of Asheby Mares in this County, by [ B] service,* 1.6 To lift up their right hand toward the King upon Christmas-day every yeare, where∣soever the King shall bee in England. Also Wardon, an Hundred, which had Lords de∣scended from Sir Guy of Reinbudcourt a Norman, whose inheritance came by the Fol∣liots to Guiscard Leddet, whose Daughter Christian bare unto her husband Henry de Braibrooke many children: yet Guiscard the eldest of them tooke to him the sirname of Leddet from his mother. But shortly after, those faire lands and possessions were by the females parted betweene William and Iohn, both Latimers of Corby. From Iohn, the Griphins in this Shire, and from William those Latimers, Barons of good antiquity, in York-shire, deduced their Descent.

Higher into the Country Northward is the head of the River Aufona (for Avon in [ C] the British tongue is a generall name of all Rivers) which the people dwelling there∣by call Nen: and from the West side of the Shire, holdeth on his course with many reaches of his bankes, after a sort through the middle part of this Shire; and all the way along it doth comfortable service. A notable River, I assure you, and if I have a∣ny sight into these matters, fortified in times past with garisons by the Romans. For, when as that part of Britain on this side the River, was now in Claudius the Emperors time brought subject to the Romane government, so as the Inhabitants thereof were called Socij Romanorum, that is, the Romans consorts or associates, and the Britans dwelling beyond the river oftentimes invaded this their country, and with great violence made incursions, and spoiled much: when as also that the Associates themselves who could [ D] better endure the Romans commands, than brooke their vices, other whiles conspi∣red with those on the further side of the River: P. Ostorius (as saith Tacitus) cinctos ca∣stris Antonaem (Aufonas I would reade if I might be so bold) & Sabrinam cohibere pa∣rat, that is, if I understand the place a right, Hee by placing Forts and Garisons, hard by the Rivers Antonae, or Aufona rather, and Severn, determined to restraine and keepe in those Britans on the further side; and these that were Provincials and associates, from conjoyning their forces together, and helping one another against the Romans. Now what River this ANTONA should be no man is able to tell. Lip∣sius the very Phoebus of our age hath either driven away this mist, or else verily a cloud hath dimmed mine eye-sight. He pointeth with his finger to Northampton; and I am [ E] of opinion that this word Antona is closely crept into Tacitus, in stead of Aufona, on which Northampton standeth. For the very navill, heart and middle of England is counted to be nere unto it, where out of one hill spring three great Rivers running divers wayes: Cherwell into the South; Leame, Westward, which as it maketh speed to Severn, is straight wayes received by a second Aufon; and this Aufona or Nen Eastward. Of which, these two Aufons so crosse England overthwart, that who∣soever comes out of the North parts of the Island must of necessity passe over one of these twaine. When Ostorius therefore had fortified Severne, and these two Au∣fons, he had no cause to feare any danger out of Wales, or the North parts, to befall unto his people, either Romans or associates; who at that time had reduced the nerest [ F] and next part of the Island onely into the forme of a Province: as else where Tacitus himselfe witnesseth. Some of these Forts of Ostorius his making, may those great for∣tifications and military Fenses seeme to bee, which are heere seene at Gildsborough and Dantrey, betweene the Springheads of the two Aufons which run divers waies, and where onely there is passage into the hither part of Britaine without any rivers

Page 508

to hinder it. That fort at Gildsborough, is great and large, but this at Dantrey is greater [ A] and larger: For, being foure square, upon an high hill from whence all the country beneath may bee seene farre every way about, and having on the East side a Mount, which they call Spelwell, it encloseth within a banke cast up by mans hand, more than one hundred acres of ground or thereabout. Within which the country people other whiles finde coined peeces of money of the Roman Emperors, as proofes of the an∣tiquity thereof. Much deceived are they therefore, who will needs have it to bee a worke of the Danes, and that of them, the towne under it, was named Dantrey: which being a through-fare well knowne at this day by reason of the Innes there, had a religious house of the Austen Friers, that Sir H. de Fawesley founded, as I have read.

At the head of Aufona or Nen, standeth Catesby that gave name to an ancient Fa∣mily, [ B] but now of foule tainted memory, for a most horrible and damnable com∣plot, never in any age exampled, which that Robert Catesby of Ashby S. Leger, the shame and indelible staine of his house and name, detestably breathing forth savage cruelty in barbarous wise, and compassing impiously the destruction of Prince and Country, devised lately under a specious pretext of Religion.

Of whom, let all times be silent, least by making mention of him, the foule staine and blot of our age appeare unto Posterity; at the naming whereof we cannot chuse but with horror grieve and groane againe, seeing the very dumbe and livelesse crea∣tures seeme to be moved and troubled at so hellish Villany imagined by him and his complices. Hard by it, is Fawesley, where have dwelt a long time the Knightleies [ C] worshipfull Knights descended from those more ancient Knightleies of Gnowshall in the County of Stafford: and more Eastward hard by Nen, as yet very small, there is Wedon in the street, sometimes the royall seat of Wolpher K. of the Mercians, and converted into a Monastery by his daughter Werburg a most holy Virgine: of whose miracles in driving away Geese from hence, some credulous writers have made many a tale. Verily I should wrong the Truth, if I should not thinke, (albeit I have thought other∣wise) that this Wedon is the very station that Antonine the Emperour nameth BAN∣NAVENNA, BENNAVENNA,* 1.7 BENNAVENTA, and once corruptly ISANNAVENTA; not∣withstanding there now remaine no expresse tokens of that name, considering how Time changeth all, both names and things. For the distance from the next stations [ D] and baiting Townes which were in ancient times, answereth just: and in the very name of BANNAVENNA, the name of the River Aufon, the head whereof is neere unto it in some sort doth plainly discover it selfe. Likewise, the high Port-way or Ro∣mane street goeth directly from hence Northward with a bridge or causey oft broken and worne out; but most of all over against a Village named Creek, where it was of necessity that there should be a bridge; but in other places the bridge sheweth it selfe also as farre as to Dowbridge, neere Lilborne most apparantly.

Somewhat more Northward wee saw Althorp, the habitation of the Spensers knights, allied to very many and those most honorable and worshipfull families: out of which house Sir Robert Spenser the fifth Knight in a successive continued Descent, a respe∣ctive [ E] lover of vertue and learning, was by our most gracious Soveraigne King James advanced to the honour of Baron Spenser of Wormeleighton.* 1.8 Hard by Althorp, Hol∣denby house, a faire patterne of stately and magnificent building maketh a faire glo∣rious shew, which Sir Chistopher Hatton one of Queene Elizabeths Privie Councell, Lord Chancellor of England, and knight of the Order of the Garter, built upon the lands and inheritance of his great grandmother, heire unto the Family of the Holden∣beis, for the greatest and last monument, (as himselfe afterwards was wont to say) of his youth: A man, to say nothing of him but that which in truth is due, for Religion and godlinesse right devout, of approved faithfulnesse to the State, of incorrupt equi∣ty: for almesdeeds of all others most bountifull; and one (which is not the least part [ F] of his praise) that was most willing and ready to support and maintaine learning. Who, as he lived a godly life, so as godly he slept in Christ: yet his commendation made knowne by the lightsome testimony of letters, shall shine forth more cleerely than by that gorgeous Monument right well beseeming so great a Personage, which

Page 509

[ A] Sir William Hatton, his adopted sonne, consecrated to his memory, in the Church of Saint Paul in London.

Beneath these places Nen passeth on forward with a still and small streame,* 1.9 and anone taketh in a small Brooke from the North, and is thereby augmented: where, at the very meeting and confluence of both, a City called after the River Northa∣fandon, and short, Northampton, is so seated, that on the West side it is watered with the Brooke, and on the South side with the foresaid Nen. Which City I was of late easily induced to guesse, to have beene that ancient BENNAVENTA; but if my conjecture missed the trueth, the confession of my errour may salve it. As for the name, it may seeme to haue beene imposed of the situation thereof upon the North [ B] banke of the River Aufon. The City it selfe which seemeth to have beene built all of stone, is, I assure you, for houses very faire, for circuit of good largenesse, and walled about: and from the Wall yee have a goodly prospect every way to a wide and spacious plaine Country.

On the West side,* 1.10 it hath an old Castle, and the very antiquity thereof giveth a grace unto it, built by Simon de Sancto Lizio, commonly called Senlyz, the first of that name Earle of Northampton: who also joyned unto it a beautifull Church called Saint Andrews, for a place of his owne buriall: and, as men say, reedified the Towne: Simon also the younger, his sonne, founded without the Towne a Monastery commonly called * 1.11 De la prey, for Nunnes. During the Saxons Heptarchie, it seem∣eth [ C] to have lien forlorne and of none account, neither have Writers made any where mention of it, in all those depredations of the Danes, unlesse it were when Swe∣no the Dane in a furious and outragious moode made most cruelly havocke through∣out all England: for then, as Henry of Huntingdon recordeth, it was set on fire and burnt to the ground. In the Raigne of Saint Edward the Confessour, there were in it, as we finde in the Survey Booke of England, LX. Burgesses in the Kings Domaine, having as many Mansions: Of these, in King William the Conquerours time, Foure∣teene lay waste and voide, and forty seaven remained. Over and above these, there were in the new Burrough forty Burgesses in the Domaine of King William. After the Nor∣mans time, it valiantly withstood the Siege layed unto it by the Barons, when they [ D] disquieted and troubled the whole Realme with injurious wrongs and slaughters, being maliciously bent against King John for private causes; which notwithstanding they so cloked with pretenses of Religion and the common good, that they tear∣med themselves,* 1.12 The Army of God and the holy Church; at which time, they say, that Trench and Rampire was made, which they call Hunshil: but it stood not out with like successe against Henry the third their lawfull King, as it did against these rebels: for, when those Barons being nuzzelled up in sedition, and rebellion, from hence dis∣plaied their banners and sounded the battaile against him, he made a breach through the Wall, and soone wonne it by assault. After this, diverse times, like as before the kings held their Parliaments here, because it standeth very nere in the midst of Eng∣land: [ E] and in the yeere after Christ was borne 1460. here was a wofull and bloody field fought; wherein (such was the civill division of England in it selfe) Richard Nevil Earle of Warwick, after many a noble man slaine, led away captive that most unhappy king Henry the Sixth in a piteous spectacle, who was now the second time taken prisoner by his subjects. To conclude, the Longitude of Northampton our Mathematicians have described by 22. degrees and 29. scruples: and the Latitude by 52. degrees and 13. scru∣ples. From hence Nen maketh haste away by Castle Ashby, where Henry L. Compton be∣gan to build a faire sightly house:* 1.13 close unto which lieth Yardley Hastings, so named of the Hastings,* 1.14 sometimes arles of Pembroch, unto whom it belonged. And to turne a little aside, I may not omit Horton, when as king Henry the Eighth created Sir W. Par [ F] Lord thereof, unckle and Chamberlaine to Queene Catharin Par, Baron Par of Hor∣ton, which honor shortly vanished with him when he left only daughters, who were married into the families of Tresham, and Lane. But to returne: Nen goeth forward to Mercat Wellingborow, in old time Wedlingborough, and Wodlingborough, made a mercat by K. John at the suit of the Monks of Crowland; where there runneth into it a Riveret

Page 510

comming downe by Rushton and Newton, belonging to the Treshams, by Geddington [ A] also where the King had a Castle, and where there remaineth yet a Crosse erected in the honour of Queene Aeleonor wife to King Edward the First: by Boughton the seat of the Montacutes Knights:* 1.15 by Kettering a Mercat Towne well frequented, neere unto which standeth Rouwell much talked of for the horse Faire there kept: by Burton likewise the Barony (if I mistake not the name) of Alane de Dinant: For, king Henry the First gave unto him a Barony of that name in this Shire, for that in single fight he had slaine the French Kings Champion at Gizors: and by Harrouden, the Lord whereof named Sir Nicolas Vaulx Captaine of Guines in Picardy,* 1.16 king Hen∣ry the Eighth created Baron Vaulx of Harrouden.

From hence goeth the Aufon or Nen to Higham, a Towne in times past of the [ B] Peverels,* 1.17 and after by them of the Ferrers, from whom it is named Higham Ferrers: who had heere also their Castle: the ruines and rubbish whereof are yet seene nere unto the Church. But, the excellent ornament of this place was Henry Chicheley Archbishop of Canterbury, who built All-soules College in Oxford, and another here, wherein he placed Secular Clerkes, and Prebendaries, and withall an Hospitall for the poore. Then runneth it by Addington the possession in old time of the Veres, and by Thorpston commonly called Thrapston, belonging likewise to them: and o∣ver against it Draiton, the house in the foregoing age of Sir H. Greene: but afterwards by his daughter, of John and Edward Staffords, Earles of Wiltshire; but now the ha∣bitation of the Lord Mordaunt unto whom it descended hereditarily from those [ C] Greenes noble Gentlemen and of right great name in this Country in their time.

Then runneth it, in manner round about a proper little Towne which it giveth name unto,* 1.18 Oundale they now call it corruptly in stead of Avondale: where there is nothing worth sight, but a faire Church, and a free Schoole for the instruction of children, and an Almeshouse for poore people, founded by Sir William Laxton, some∣time Major of London.* 1.19 Neere adjoyning to this, stands Barnewell, a little Castle, which now of late Sir Edward Mont-acute of the ancient family of the Mont-acutes, as may be collected by his Armes, hath repaired and beautified with new buildings. In times past it was the possession of Berengary le Moigne, that is, Monke, and not, as some thinke, of Berengary of Touraine, the great Clerke, whose opinion of the Sa∣crament [ D] of the Lords Supper, was condemned in a Synode of an hundred and thir∣teene Bishops assembled by the Bishop of Rome.

* 1.20After this, it passeth on by Fotheringhay Castle, environed on every side with most pleasant medowes, which in the Raigne of Henry the Third, when the strong holds encouraged the Lords and Nobles to revolt, William Earle of Aumarl surprised upon the sodaine, and laied all the Country about waste, as Mathew of Paris recordeth. At which time it belonged unto the Earles of Huntingdon who were of the royall Race of Scotland. A good while after, King Edward the Third assigned it, as it were, for an inheritance or appennage as the French tearme it, unto his sonne Edmund of Langley, Duke of Yorke, who reedified the Castle, and made the highest fortification [ E] or Keepe thereof in forme of an horse-fetter, which both of it selfe, and with a Faul∣con in it, was his Devise, or Emprese; as implying that hee was locked up from all great hope, as a younger brother. His sonne Edward Duke of Yorke in the second yeere of Henry the Fift his Raigne, and in the yeere of Christ 1415. (as appeareth by an inscription there in rude and barbarous Verses) founded a passing faire Col∣legiat Church, wherein himselfe, when he was slaine in the battaile at Agncourt, as also Richard Duke of Yorke, his brothers sonne, who lost his life at Wakefield, and his wife Cecily Nevil,* 1.21 had stately and sumptuous Tombes, which were profanely subver∣ted together with the upper part of the Church, in King Edward the Sixth his time. Yet in memoriall of them, Queene Elizabeth comming thither commanded two [ F] Monuments to be erected in the nether part of the Church, that now standeth: which notwithstanding, (such was their pinching and sparing that had the charge of this worke) are thought scarce beseeming so great Princes descending from Kings, and from whom Kings of England are descended.

Page 511

[ A] The forme of the Keepe beforesaid built like a fetter-locke occasioneth mee to di∣gresse a little,* 1.22 and I hope with your pardon,* 1.23 when the gravest Authours in as small matters have done the like: Edmund of Langley Duke of Yorke who built that Keepe, and garnished the glasse-windowes there with Fetter-lockes, when hee saw his sons being young scholers gazing upon the painted windowes, asked them what was La∣tin for a Fetter-locke? They studying and looking silently one upon another, not a∣ble to answer: If you cannot tell me, saith he, I will tell you, Hic, haec, hoc Taceatis, that is, Hic, haec, hoc, be silent and quiet: and therewithall added, God knoweth what may happen heereafter. This King Edward the Fourth his great Grand-childe reported publique∣ly, when he having attained the Crowne created Richard his younger sonne Duke [ B] of Yorke, and then commanding that hee should use for his Badge the Fetter-locke open to verifie the presage of his great Grand-father. But this by the way.

The said Cecily mother to King Edward the Fourth saw plainly within the com∣passe of a few yeeres what disports unruly and powerfull Fortune (pardon the word, for I acknowledge that God ruleth all) maketh herselfe out of the miseries of the mighty. For she saw Richard Duke of Yorke her husband, even then when he thought himselfe sure of the Kingdome, and her sonne the Earle of Rutland, slaine together in a bloudy fought field, and some few yeeres after her eldest sonne Edward the Fourth enjoying the regall Crowne, deprived of the same, recovering it againe, and taken away by untimely death, when hee had before made away her second sonne and his [ C] owne brother George Duke of Clarence. After that, she saw her other sonne Richard Duke of Glocester aspiring to the Crowne and making way to it by that lamentable murdering of his Nephewes, and slandering of her his owne Mother, (for he charged her openly with the greatest dishonor incident to a Lady:) and afterward she saw him when he was possessed of the Kingdome, within a while slaine in battaile: And these her miseries were so linked together, that the longer she lived the greater sorrow she felt, and every day was more dolefull than other. As for that disastre which even heere befell unto another most mighty Prince Mary Queene of Scots, I had leifer it should be enwrapped up in silence, than once spoken of: Let it be forgotten quite, if it be possible: if not, yet be it hidden, as it may in silence. Under the best Princes some [ D] there are who being once armed with authority, know how by secret slights to set a goodly shew and faire pretense of conscience and Religion, thereby to cloke their owne private designes: And there be againe, that sincerely and from the heart tender true Religion, their Princes security, yea and (which is the highest rule and law of all) the publique safety. Neither can it bee denied, but that even the best Princes themselves are otherwhiles violently carried away, as good Pilotes with tempests, against their wils whither they would not. But what they doe as Princes and Kings, let us leave to God who onely hath power over Kings.

Nen being now come unto the skirts of Huntingdon-shire, running under a faire stone Bridge at Walmesford,* 1.24 passeth by DUROBRIVAE, a right ancient City, [ E] which being called in the English Saxon Tongue Dormancester, as I said before, tooke up a great space of ground on both bankes of the River in both Counties. For,* 1.25 the little Village Caster which stands a mile off from the River, may seeme to have beene a part of it, by the pavements there found, wrought checker wise with small square quarels; although on the Church wall we reade this inscription bearing date of a later time.

XV. KL. MAII DEDICATIO HU∣JUS ECCLESIAE MCXXIIII. THE FIFTEENTH DAY BEFORE THE KALENDS OF MAY, IN THE YEERE ONE THOUSAND ONE [ F] HUNDRED TWENTY FOURE, [WAS] THE DE∣DICATION OF THIS CHURCH.

And doubtlesse, of greater name and note it was: for in the corne fields ad∣joyning, which in steade of Dormanton, they call Normanton Fields, so many peeces of Romane Coine are turned out of the ground, that a man would verily

Page 512

thinke they had beene sowed there: and two Rode-wayes, whereof the Causeys [ A] are yet evident to bee seene, went from hence, the one called Forty-foot-way, be∣cause it was forty foot broade, unto Stanford: the other named Long-ditch and High-streat by Lollham-bridges,* 1.26 (bridges I assure you of great antiquity, whereof e∣leven arches are in sight, now chinking and chawning for age) through West Deeping, into Lincoln-shire. At the very division and parting of these two Port-waies stan∣deth Upton highly situate,* 1.27 whereupon it tooke also that name: where Sir Robert Wingfield Knight, descended from that ancient Family of the Wingfields, which hath brought forth so many worshipfull and worthy Knights, hath a faire house with most lovely walkes.

* 1.28From DUROBRIVAE the River Aufon or Nen passeth on to Peterburgh seated in [ B] the very angle or nouke of this Shire, where Writers report there hath beene a gulfe or whirlpole in the River, of exceeding great depth, called Medeswell, and a Towne hard by it named thereupon Medeswelhamsted and Medeshamsted; which Towne, as wee reade in Robert de Swapham, was built in an excellent fine place, having of the one side fennes, and passing good waters, and of the other many goodly woods, medowes, and pastures: faire and beautifull to the eye every way, and not accessable by land save onely on the West side. The River Nen runneth by at the South side of the Burrough; in the middle of which River, there is a place as it were a gulfe so deepe and cold withall, that even in Sum∣mer no swimmer is able to ducke or dive unto the bothom. Yet is it never for all that frozen over in Winter: for there is a spring there, whence the water welleth out. This place they [ C] called in old time Meddeswell; untill that Wolpher King of the Mercians built there a Mo∣nastery in honour of Saint Peter. And seeing the place was all a marish ground, he lai∣ed the foundation, as that Robert writeth, with mighty huge stones, such as eight yoke of Oxen would hardly draw one of them, which I saw with mine owne eyes, saith he, when this Monastery was destroyed. Afterward, of this Monastery dedicated to Saint Peter, it began to bee called PETRIBURGUS, or PETROPOLIS, that is, Peterborow or Burgh, and the said Monastery was very famous and renowned. The originall oc∣casion, and the building whereof, I have thought it worth my labour briefly to put downe, out of the said Robert de Swapham, a Writer of good antiquity. Peada, the sonne of Penda, who was the first Christian King of the Mercians, in the yeere of [ D] grace 546. for the propagation of Christian Religion, laid the foundation of a Mo∣nastery at Medeshamsted in the Girvians or Fen-country, which hee could not finish, for that by the wicked practise of his mother, he was made away.

After Peada succeeded his brother Wolpher, who being most averse from Christi∣an Religion, murdered Wolphald and Rufin his owne sonnes with cruell and barbarous immanitie, because they had devoted themselves unto Christ, and embraced his Religion. But himselfe some few yeeres after, embracing Christian Religion, for to expiate and wash away the staine of that his impiety with some good and godly worke, set in hand to build up this Monastery which his brother had be∣gunne: which through the helpe of his brother Aetheldred, of Kineburga also [ E] and Kineswith his sisters, being fully finished in the yeere of our Lord 633. hee consecrated unto Saint Peter, endowed it with ample Revenewes, and ordained Sexwulft a right godly and devout man (who principally advised him to this worke) the first Abbat thereof.

This Monastery flourished afterward, and had the name and opinion in the world of great holinesse, for the space of two hundered and foureteene yeeres or thereabout, untill those most heavie and wofull times came of the Danes, who made spoile and waste of all: For, then were the Monkes massacred, and the Monastery quite overthrowne lay buryed, as one would say, many yeeres together in the owne rubbish and ruines. At the last, about the yeere of our Lord 960. Ethel∣wold [ F] Bishop of Winchester, who wholy gave himselfe to the furtherance of monasti∣call profession began to reedifie it, having the helping hand especially of King Ead∣gar, and Adulph the Kings Chancellour, who upon a pricke of conscience and deepe repentance, for that hee and his wife together lying in bed asleepe had overlaid and

Page 513

[ A] smothred the little infant their onely sonne, laid upon the reedifying of this mona∣stery all the wealth he had: and when it was thus rebuilt, he became Abbat thereof.

From which time, it was of high estimation and name, partly for the great riches it had and in part for the large priviledges which it enjoyed: although in the reigne of William the Conquerour, Herward an Englishman being proclaimed trai∣tour and outlawed, made a rode out of the Isle of Ely and rifled it of all the riches that it had gathered together:* 1.29 against whom Turold the Abbot, erected the fort Mont-Turold: Yet was it esteemed exceeding wealthy even unto our fathers daies, when, King Henry the Eighth thrust out the Monkes in all places, alleaging that they de∣clining from the ordinances, which those holy and ancient Monkes held, wasted in [ B] riot and excesse the goods of the Church, which was the Patrimony and inheritance of the poore; and in their places erected here a Bishopricke assigning thereunto this county and Rutland-shire for his Diocese: and placed withall a Deane and certaine Prebendaries. So that of a Monastery it became a Cathedrall Church; which if you well consider the building, is for the very antiquity thereof, goodly to behold. The forefront carieth a majesty with it, and the Cloisters are very large, in the glasse-windowes whereof is represented the history of Wolpher the founder, with the suc∣cession of the Abbots. Saint Maries Chappell is a goodly large building, full of curi∣rious worke, and the quire faire: wherein two as infortunate Queenes as any other, Katherine of Spaine repudiated by King Henry the Eighth, and Mary Queene of [ C] Scotland being enterred, found rest and repose there, from all their miseries.

Beneath Peterburgh,* 1.30 the river Aufon or Nen, which by this time is gone from his spring-head much about forty five miles, and carrieth along with him all rils, brookes, and land flouds occasioned by raine, that he hath taken into his chanels, is divided sundry waies. And finding no way to cary his streame, by spreading his waters all abroad in winter time, yea and other whiles most part of the yeere, over∣floweth all the plaine country, so as it seemeth to be nothing but a vast sea lying even and levell, with some few Islands that beare up their heads and appeare aboue the water. The cause of such inundation the people inhabiting thereby, alleage to be this, for that of the three chanels or draines, by which so great store of water was [ D] wont to be issued into the sea, the first that went directly into the sea by Thorney Ab∣bay, and then a part by Clow Crosse and Crowland: the second also by the trench cut out by Morton Bishop of Ely, called the New leam, and then by Wisbich; have a long time been forlet and neglected: and so the third which goeth downe by Horsey∣bridge, Witlesmer, Ramsey-mere and Salters-load, is not able to receive so much water: whereby it breaketh forth with more violence upon the flats adjoyning. And the country complaineth for trespasse done unto them, as well by those that have not scoured the said draines, as by them that have turned the same aside to their private uses: and as the Reatines said some time, so doe they, That Nature herselfe hath well provided for mans use; in that she hath given all rivers their courses, and issues; and as well [ E] their-inlets into the Sea, as their heads and springs. But thus much of this matter may seeme to some over-much.

In this place is the County least in breadth: for betweene Nen and the River Welland the one limit on the North side, there are scarce five miles. Upon Welland, which Aethelward an old writer called Weolod,* 1.31 neere unto the spring head, is Braibrock Castle, built by Robert May, aliàs, De Braybroke, a most inward minion of King John: whose sonne Henry having married Christian Ledet an inheritrice of a great estate, his eldest sonne adopted himselfe into the surname of the Ledet: from one of whose Nieces by his sonne, as I said before, it came unto the Latimers, and by them unto the Griphins, whose inheritance now it is. Neere unto it among the woods I saw some [ F] few reliques of a Monastery,* 1.32 called in times past De Divisis, and afterward Pipwell; which William Buttevillein founded in the reigne of Henry the Second for Cistertian Monkes.* 1.33 From thence might Rockingham bee seene, were it not for the woods, a Castle sometime of the Earles of Aumarle, built by King William the Conqueror, at what time it was a wast, (as we finde in his Domesday booke) fortified with Rampier

Page 514

and Bulwarkes, and a duple range of Battlements, situate upon the side of an hill [ A] within a woody Forest, which thereupon is named Rockingham Forest.

* 1.34After this it runneth beside Haringworth the seat in old time of the Cantlows and now of the Lord Zouch: who descended from Eudo a younger sonne of Alan de la Zouch, of Ashby De la Zouch, have growne up to a right honourable Family of Ba∣rons; whose honour and state was much augmented by marriage with one of the heires of * 1.35 Cantlow, as also with an other of Baron Saint Maur, who likewise drew his Pedegree from the heire of the Lord Zouch de Ashby, and the Lovels Lords of Castel-Cary in Somersetshire.

Here also I saw Deane, belonging in ancient times to the Deanes, afterwards to the Tindals, which place is worth the remembrance, if it were but for this, that it is [ B] now a proper and faire dwelling house of the Brudenells: out of which Family Sir Edmund Brudenell, late deceased, was a passing great lover and admirer of venera∣ble Antiquity.* 1.36 The Family likewise of Engain, which was both ancient and ho∣nourable had their seat hereby at Blatherwic (where now the Staffords of knights de∣gree inhabite, who descended from Ralph the first Earle of Stafford) and those En∣gaines changed their Castle named Humel before time,* 1.37 into a Monastery called Finisheved. Their issue male failed about two hundred yeares since: but of their heires the eldest was wedded unto Sir Iohn Goldington, the second to Sir Laurence Pabenham, and the third to Sir William Bernak, all right worthy Knights.

* 1.38Heere also is to bee seene Apthorp, the seat of a most worthy knight, Sir Anthony [ C] Mildmay, whose father Sir Walter Mildmay, late one of Queene Elizabeths Privie Counsell, for his vertue, wisdome, piety, and bounty to learning and learned men, by founding Emanuel College in Cambridge, hath worthily deserved to bee regi∣stred among the best men in this our age.

* 1.39Hard by standeth Thornhaugh sometimes belonging to the Family De Sancto Medardo, contracted into Semar, and now to the right honorable Sir William Russell, sonne to Francis Earle of Bedford descended from Semare, whom King James for his vertues and faithfull service in Ireland whiles hee was Lord Deputy there, ad∣vanced to the Dignity of Baron Russell of Thornhaugh.

* 1.40Neither is the Towne Welledon to bee passed over in silence, considering that [ D] it went in old time for a Barony, which by Mawde the Daughter and heire of Geffrey de Ridell (who together with King Henry the First his sonne was drowned) did descend to Richard Basset sonne of Ralph Basset, Lord Justice of England, in whose race it continued unto King Henry the Fourth his dayes: For then, by the females it accrued to the Kneveis and Alesburies.

Welland being past Haringworth goeth to visit Colliweston, where Lady Marga∣ret Countesse of Richmond, King Henry the Seaventh his mother built a goodly faire and stately house: Under which, the neighbour inhabitants use to digge great plenty of sclate stones for their buildings.* 1.41 From whence Wittering Heath, a plaine, runneth out farre into the East, wherein the people there dwelling, report, that the [ E] Danes long since were discomfited in a memorable battaile and put to flight.* 1.42 Now by this time is Welland come to Burghley whereof the most prudent and right hono∣rable Councellour Sir William Cecil, Lord high Treasurer of England, yea a singu∣lar treasure and supporter of the same, received the Title of Baron Burghley, for his great good deserts, at the hands of Queene Elizabeth. Which Title hee ador∣ned with the lustre of his vertues, and beautified this place with magnificent sump∣tuous buildings, adjoyning thereto a large Parke encompassed about with a stone wall of a great circuite. Beneath it, there are ancient Quarries of stone at Bernack, out of which the Abbayes of Peterburgh and of Ramsey were built. For heere (to write the very words out of the History of Ramsey) The toyling strength of the [ F] Quarriers is often tried and held to worke: yet ever still there remaineth worke for them behinde, wherein they being refreshed betweene whiles with rest, may bee exercised and kept in ure. And thus wee reade in the Charter of king Edward the Confessour: In con∣sideration of foure thousand Eeles in Lent, the Monkes of Ramsey shall have out of the

Page 515

[ A] Territory of Saint Peter so much square astiler stone, as they need, at Berneck, and of rough building stone for wals, at Burch. Under Berneck that high-way made by the Romanes, which the neighbour Inhabitants,* 1.43 of the breadth that it carrieth, call The forty foot-way, from Caster to Stanford cutteth and divideth this Shire, and is to bee seene with an high Causey, especially by the little Wood of Bernack, where it hath a Bea∣con set upon the very ridge, and so runneth forth along by Burghley Park wall toward Stanford.

Some five miles hence,* 1.44 Welland running downe by Maxey Castle, belonging some∣time to the noble house of Wake, and by Peag-Kirk, (where, in the Primitive Church of the English Nation, Pega an holy woman who gave name to that place, and sister [ B] of Saint Guthlak, with other Nuns and devout virgins by their life and example gave good documents of piety and chastity; commeth to the Fennes so often mentioned. And for as much as the banke on the South side thereof is in many places neglected, the River lieth sore upon the lands thereabout with great detriment: and thus be∣ing put out of his owne Chanell that before time went by Spalding, he entreth closely into Nen or Aufon, and over-chargeth it exceedingly.

Now the lesse Avon, which is the other of the limits, as I said, of this shire North∣ward, but serveth for a limit onely about five or six miles in length, breaking out of the ground at Avon-well by Naseby, neere by the Spring-head of Welland, runneth Westward by Suleby sometimes an Abbay of Black-Monkes,* 1.45 and by Stanford upon [ C] Avon,* 1.46 the habitation of the Caves Family, out of which there is spread a notable off∣spring with many branches in all that Tract adjoyning: also by Lilborne, the seate in times past of the Canvilles. Which, that it hath beene in old time a Mansion place or Station of the Romans, I am induced to thinke, by the site thereof hard by one of their Port-waies, by the ancient Trenches there, and a little piked hill cast up: into which when of late dayes some digged in hope of old hid treasure, in stead of gold they found coles.* 1.47 And when this river being as yet but small is once gone under Dow∣bridge, it leaveth Northampton-shire and entreth Warwick-shire. By those coles digged forth from under the said hill, what if I should conjecture that this hill was raised up for a limit or bound-marke, seeing Siculus Flaccus writeth, that either ashes, or coles, [ D] or pot-sherds, or broken glasses, or bones halfe burnt, or lime, or plaster, were wont to be put under land-markes and limits:* 1.48 and S. Augustine writeth thus of coles: Is it not a wonderfull thing (saith hee) whereas considering Coles be so brickle, that with the least blow they breake, with the least crushing they are crushed; yet no time, bee it never so long conque∣reth them: in so much as they that pitch Land-markes and limits, were wont to couch them underneath, to convince any litigious fellow whatsoever, that should come never so long time after, and avouch that a limit was not there pitched. And so much the rather incline I to this my conjecture, because they that have written of limits, doe write that cer∣taine hillockes or piles of earth which they termed Botontines,* 1.49 were set in limits: so that I suppose most of these mounts and round hils which we every where see and [ E] call Burrowes, were for this purpose raised, and that ashes, coles, pot-sherds, &c. may be found under them, if they were digged downe a good depth into the earth.

The first Earle that this County had to my knowledge,* 1.50 was Waldeof (sonne of that warlike Siward) who being also Earle of Huntingdon, for his disloyall treachery unto William the Conquerour, lost his head: leaving two daughters onely behinde him, by Iudith the Conquerours Niece by a sister of his mothers side. Simon de Saint Liz,* 1.51 be∣ing scornfully rejected by Iudith the mother for that hee was lame-legged, married Mawd the eldest Daughter, and hee built Saint Andrewes Church and the Castle at Northampton. After him succeeded his sonne, Simon the second, who a long time was in suite about his mothers possessions with David King of Scots his mothers second [ F] husband: and having sided with King Stephen, in the yeere of our Lord 1152. depar∣ted this life with this testimoniall that went of him: A Youth full fraught with all un∣lawfull wickednesse, and as full of all unseemely lewdnesse. His sonne Simon the third, having gone to law with the Scots for his right to the Earldome of Huntingdon, wa∣sted all his estate, and through the gracious goodnesse of King Henry the Second,

Page 516

married the Daughter and Heire of Gilbert de Gaunt Earle of Lincolne: and in the [ A] end having recovered the Earledome of Huntingdon, and disseized the Scots, dyed childelesse in the yeare 1185. Whereas some have lately set downe Sir Richard Go∣bion to have beene Earle of Northampton afterward, I finde no warrant thereof ei∣ther in Record, or History: Onely I finde, that Sir Hugh Gobion was a Ringleader in that rebellious rable which held Northampton against king Henry the Third, and that the inheritance of his house came shortly after by marriage to Butler of Woodhall, and Turpin, &c. But this is most certaine that King Edward the Third created William de Bohun a man of approved valour, Earle of Northampton: and when his elder bro∣ther Humfrey de Bohun, Earle of Hereford and of Essex, High Constable also of Eng∣land, was not sufficient in that warlike age, to beare that charge of the Constable, he [ B] made him also High Constable of England. After him his sonne Humfrey succeeding in the Earledome of Northampton, as also in the Earledomes of Hereford and of Essex, for that his Unckle dyed with issue, begat two Daughters; the one bestowed in marriage upon Thomas of Woodstocke, the youngest sonne of King Edward the Third; the other upon Henry of Lancaster, Duke of Hereford, who afterwards attained to the Crowne by the name of King Henry the Fourth. The Daughter of the said Thomas of Woodstocke brought by her marriage this Title of Northampton with others, into the Family of the Staffords. But when they afterwards had lost their honours and dignities, King Edward the Sixth honoured Sir William Parr Earle of Essex, a most accomplished Courtier, with the Title of Marquesse of Northampton: who within [ C] our remembrance ended this life issuelesse. And while I was writing and perusing this Worke, our most sacred Soveraigne King James in the yeere of our Salvation 1603. upon one and the same day advanced Lord Henry Howard brother to the last Duke of Norfolke, a man of rare and excellent wit, and sweet fluent eloquence, sin∣gularly adorned also with the best sciences, prudent in counsell, and provident with∣all, to the state of Baron Howard of Marnehill, and the right honourable name, title, stile, and Dignity of Earle of Northampton.

There belong unto this Shire Parishes 326.

Page [unnumbered]

Page [unnumbered]

[illustration]
LECESTRIAE COMITATVS. SIVE Leicestershyre. PARS OLIM CORITANORVM.

Page [unnumbered]

[illustration]

Page [unnumbered]

Page 517

[ A] LEICESTER-SHIRE.

ON the North side of Northampton-shire boundeth LEICE∣STER-SHIRE, called in that Booke wherein William the Conquerour set downe his Survey of England, Ledecester-shire: a champian Country likewise throughout, bearing corne in great plenty, but for the most part without Woods. It hath bordering upon it on the East side, both Rutland-shire and Lin∣coln-shire, on the North Nottingham and Derby-shires; and [ B] Warwick-shire on the West. (For, the high Rode way made by the Romanes called Watling-streat, directly running along the West skirt, sepa∣rateth it from Warwick-shire:) and on the South side, as I noted even now, lyeth Northampton-shire. Through the middle part thereof passeth the River Soar taking his way toward the Trent: but over the East-part a little River called Wreke gently wandereth, which at length findeth his way into the foresaid Soar.

On the South side, where it is divided on the one hand with the River Avon the lesse, and on the other with the River Welland, we meet with nothing worth relation, unlesse it be, on Wellands banke, (whiles he is yet but small and newly come from his [ C] head) with Haverburgh commonly called Harborrow, a Towne most celebrate heere∣about for a Faire of Cattaile there kept: and as for Carleton, as one would say, the husband-mens Towne, (that is not farre from it) wherein (I wote not whether it be worth the relating) all in manner that are borne, whether it bee by a peculiar pro∣perty of the Soile, or the water, or else by some other secret operation of nature, have an ill favoured, untunable, and harsh manner of speech, fetching their words with very much adoe deepe from out of the throat, with a certaine kinde of wharling.

That Romane streete way aforesaid,* 1.52 (the causey whereof being in some other pla∣ces quite worne and eaten away, heere most evidently sheweth itselfe) passeth on directly as it were by a streight line Northward, through the West side of this Pro∣vince. [ D] The very tract of which street I my selfe diligently traced and followed even from the Tamis to Wales, purposely to seeke out Townes of ancient memory: (laugh you will perhaps, at this my painfull and expencefull diligence, as vainly curious:) nei∣ther could I repose my trust upon a more faithfull guide for the finding out of those said townes which Antonine the Emperour specifieth in his Itinerary. This Street-way, being past Dowbridge, where it leaveth Northampton-shire behinde it, is interrupted, first with the River Swift, that is indeed but slow, although the name import swift∣nesse, which it maketh good onely in the Winter moneths. The Bridge over it now called Bransford and Bensford Bridge, which heere conjoyned in times past this way, having been of long time broken downe, hath beene the cause that so famous a way [ E] for a great while was the lesse frequented: but now, at the common charge of the country,* 1.53 it is repaired. Upon this way lyeth of the one side, Westward, Cester-Over, (but it is in Warwick-shire) a place worth the naming, were it but in regard of the Lord thereof Sir Foulke Grevill, a right worshipfull and worthy knight: although the very name it selfe may witnesse the antiquity, for, our ancestours added this word Cester to no other places but only cities.* 1.54 On the other side of the way Eastward, hard by water Swift which springeth neere Knaptoft the seat of the Turpins a knightly house descended from an heire of the Gobions, lieth Misterton belonging to the an∣cient family of the Poulteneis, who tooke that name of Poulteney a place now decaied within the said Lordship.* 1.55 Neere to it is Lutterworth a Mercate Towne the possession [ F] in times past of the Verdons, which onely sheweth a faire Church which hath beene encreased by the Feldings of knights degree and ancient gentry in this Shire. That famous John Wickliffe was sometime Parson of this Church,* 1.56 a man of a singular, po∣lite, and well wrought wit, most conversant also in the holy Scripture: who for that he had sharpened the neb of his pen against the Popes authority, the Church of Rome,

Page 518

and religious men, was not onely in his life time most grievously troubled, but also [ A] one and forty yeeres after his death, his dead Corps was cruelly handled, being by warrant from the Councell of Siena turned out of his grave and openly burned. Nei∣ther is it to be forgotten that neere to this Towne is a spring so cold that within a short time it turneth strawes and stickes into stones.* 1.57

From that Bensford bridge, the foresaid old High way goeth on to High-crosse, so called, for that thereabout stood sometime a Crosse, in stead of which, is erected now a very high post with props and supporters thereto. The neighbours there dwel∣ling reported unto me, that the two principall High-waies of England did here cut one another overthwart, and that there stood a most flourishing City there, named Cleycester,* 1.58 which had a Senate of Aldermen in it, and that Cleybrooke, almost a mile [ B] off, was part of it: also, that on both sides of the way, there lay under the furrowes of the corne fields great foundations and ground workes of foure square stone: also that peeces of Roman money were very often turned up with the Plough: although a∣bove the ground, as the Poet saith, Etiam ipsae periere ruinae, that is, Even the very ruines are perished and gone. These presumptions together with the distance of this place from BANNAVENTA or Wedon, which agreeth just, and withall the said Bridge, leading hitherward, called Bensford, are inducements unto me to thinke verily, that the station BENNONES,* 1.59 or VENONES, was heere, which Antonine the Empe∣rour placeth next beyond BANNAVENTA, especially seeing that Antonine sheweth how the way divided it selfe heere into two parts, which also goeth com∣monly [ C] currant. For, Northeastward, where the way lieth to Lincolne, the Fosse way leadeth directly to RATAE and to VERNOMETUM, of which I will speake a∣non: and toward the Northwest, Watlingstreet goeth as streight into Wales by MAN∣VESSEDUM, whereof I shall write in his due place in Warwick-shire.

Higher, yet neere the same streetside standeth Hinkley, which had for Lord of it, Hugh Grantmaismill, a Norman, high Steward or Seneschall of England, during the Raignes of king William Rufus, and Henry the First. The said Hugh had two daugh∣ters, Parnell, given in marriage to Robert Blanch-mains (so called of his faire white hands) Earle of Leicester, together with the High-Stewardship of England; and Alice, wedded to Roger Bigot. Verily, at the East end of the Church, there are to be [ D] seene Trenches and Rampires, yea and a Mount cast up to an eminent height, which the inhabitants say was Hughes Castle. Three miles hence standeth Bosworth, an anci∣ent Mercat Towne, which liberty together with the Faire S. Richard Harecourt obtai∣ned for it at the hands of king Edward the First. Under this towne in our great grand∣fathers daies the kingdome of England lay hazarded upon the chance of one battaile: For, Henry Earle of Richmond, with a small power encountred there in pitched field king Richard the Third, who had by most wicked meanes usurped the kingdome: and whiles he resolved to die the more valiantly, fighting for the liberty of his coun∣try, with his followers and friends, the more happy successe he had, and so overcame and slew the Usurper:* 1.60 and then being with joyfull acclamations proclaimed King in [ E] the very mids of slaughtered bodies round about; he freed England by his happy va∣lour from the rule of a Tyrant, and by his wisdome refreshed and setled it being sore disquieted with long civill dissentions. Whereupon Bernard Andreas of Tholous, a Poet living in those daies, in an Ode dedicated unto King Henry the Seventh, as touching the Rose his Devise, writ these Verses, such as they are:

Ecce nunc omnes posuere venti Murmuris, praeter Zephyrum tepentem: Hic Rosas nutrit, nitidósque flores Veris amoeni. [ F] Behold now all the windes are laid, But Zephyrus that blowes full warme: The Rose, and faire spring-floures in mead He keepeth fresh, and doth no harme.

Page 519

[ A] Other memorable things there are none by this Street, unlesse it bee Ashby de la Zouch, that lyeth a good way off: a most pleasant Lordship now of the Earles of Huntingdon,* 1.61 but belonging in times past to the noble Family De la Zouch, who de∣scended from Alan Vicount of Rohan,* 1.62 in Little Britaine, and Constantia his wife daugh∣ter to Conan le Grosse Earle of Britaine and Maude his wife the naturall daughter of Henry the First. Of this house Alane De la Zouch married one of the heires of Roger Quincy Earle of Winchester, and in her right came to a faire inheritance in this Country. But when hee had judicially sued John Earle of Warren, who chose rather to try the Title by the sword point than by point of Law, he was slaine by him even in Westminster Hall, in the yeere of our Lord 1269. and some yeeres after, the [ B] daughters and heires of his grand sonne transferred this inheritance by their marri∣ages into the Families of the Saint Maures,* 1.63 of Castle Cary, and the Hollands. Yet their father first bestowed this Ashby upon Sir Richard Mortimer of Richards Castle his co∣zin, whose younger issue thereupon tooke the sirname of Zouch, and were Lords of Ashby. But from Eudo a younger sonne of Alane who was slaine in Westminster Hall, the Lords Zouch of Harringworth branched out, and have beene for many Descents, Barons of the Realme. Afterward in processe of time Ashby came to the Hastings, who built a faire large and stately house there, and Sir William Hastings procured un∣to the Towne the liberty of a Faire in the time of King Henry the Sixth. Here I may not passe over the next neighbour Cole-Overton, now a seat of the Beaumontes descen∣ded [ C] from Sir Thomas Beaumont Lord of Bachevill in Normandy, brother to the first Vicount. This place hath a Cole prefixed for the forename which Sir Thomas, as some write, was hee, who was slaine manfully fighting at such time as the French recove∣red Paris from the English in the time of King Henry the Sixth. This place of the pit-coles (being of the nature of hardned Bitumen,* 1.64 which are digged up to the pro∣fit of the Lord, in so great a number that they serve sufficiently for fewell to the neighbour Dwellers round about farre and neere.

I said before that the River Soar did cut this Shire in the middle, which springing not farre from this Street, and encreased with many small rils and Brookes of running water, going a long Northward with a gentle streame, passeth under the West and [ D] North side of the cheife Towne or City of this County, which in Writers is called Lege-Cestria,* 1.65 Leogora, Legeo cester, and Leicester. This Towne maketh an evident faire shew both of great antiquity and good building. In the yeere 680. when Sexwulph at the commandement of King Etheldred divided the kingdome of the Mercians into Bishoprickes, hee placed in this an Episcopall See, and was himselfe the first Bishop that sat there: but a few yeeres after, when the See was translated to another place, this Dignity had an end, and therewith the stately part of the Towne by little and little was empaired, untill that Edelfleda a most vertuous and noble Lady in the yeere after our Saviours Nativity 914. repaired and strongly walled it new about; in so much as Matthew of Paris in his lesser Story wrote thus, Legecester is a right wealthy City and [ E] notably well fenced with an indissoluble Wall, which if it had a strong foundation were infe∣riour to no City whatsoever. About the Normans entring into this Land, it was well peopled and frequented, yea and had very many Burgesses in it; out of whom they were bound by an ancient custome (as we reade in William the Conquerours booke) To send twelve with the King so often as he ent in person to the warres: But if hee made a voyage by sea against his enemies, they sent foure horses to carry armour as farre as to Lon∣don. This City paid yeerely to the King 30. pounds by tale, and twenty in ora, that is, * 1.66 by weight, also 25. measures called Sextaries of hony. But in the time of King Henry the Seconds Raigne, it was sore overpressed with a world of great and grievous calami∣ties, and the wals throwne downe, what time as Robert sirnamed Bossu, (that is, Crouch [ F] backe) Earle of Leicester conspired and rebelled against the King. Which Matthew of Paris sheweth in these words: For the obstinate stubbornesse of Earle Robert spurning against the King, the noble City of Leicester was besieged and overthrowne by King Henry, and the Wall which seemed indissoluble, was utterly cast downe all round about. For, that I may adde thus much out of the lesser History abovesaid, when the Wall of the

Page 520

City wanting a good foundation was undermined, and the props that sustained it at length [ A] burnt, the peeces and fragments of the Wall fell downe, which even to this day (such is the in∣dissoluble tenacity and stifnesse of the morter) remaine fast, and retaine the bignesse of sound rockes. Miserable also was the imposition of a fine upon the Citizens at that time, and their banishment as lamentable; who having obtained by paying summes of money licence to depart, tooke Sanctuary for extreame feare in Saint Albans and Saint Ed∣mundsbury. The Castle likewise was dismantled of all Fortifications, which verily was a large and strong peece. Beneath which, there is a very faire Hospitall or house for receit of poore people, and a Collegiat Church wherein Henry Earle of Lanca∣ster, and Henry of Lancaster his sonne, who was the first Duke of Lancaster, lie buri∣ed. For, the said Duke when he was now stepped farre in yeeres, of a pious minde [ B] built this Hospitall for the maintenance of poore folke, and to that end dedicated it. Concerning which, Henry Knighton of Leicester who lived in that age, writeth thus in his story. Henry the first Duke of Lancaster built a Collegiat Church and an Ho∣spitall without the South Gate of Leicester; wherein hee ordained a Deane with 12. Canons Prebendaries, as many Vicars, and other Officers, an hundred poore and feeble people, and ten poore able women to give attendance upon the said feeble folke; and this Hospitall hee endowed with sufficient revenewes.* 1.67 As for this Hospitall it continueth in some good state, as an other Bede-house in the Towne built by W. Wigeston. But the Collegiat Church which was a magnificent worke, and the greatest ornament of Leicester was demo∣lished when religious houses were granted to the King. [ C]

At the other side of the City among most goodly and pleasant medowes which the River Soar watereth, there was an Abbay, called of that place, De Pree: of which, the said Knighton hath written thus, Robert de Bossu Earle of Leicester (when he begun Gerondon Abbay for Cistertians) founded the Monastery of S. Mary De Pratis, at Leicester, endowed it richly with Lands, Possessions and Revenewes, and himselfe with the consent of * 1.68 Amice his Wife became a * 1.69 Chanon Regular in the same, and, for the space of fifteene yeeres, in habite of a Chanon served God there, and so slept in the Lord; That thus forsooth, he might make amends by repentance in a Chanons weed of that offence; which beforetime hee had committed by rebelling with a traiterous minde against his Liege Prince. What name Leicester had in the Romans time, it is not knowne; In [ D] the Catalogue of Ninnius, I thinke it to bee that, which is called Caer Lerion: But, that Leir a King, of whom there goe many tales, built it, they that will, may beleeve it for mee. But the situation thereof upon the Foss-way, and the distance both from BENNONES and VEROMETUM, agreeth so just with the description of An∣tonine, that I cannot but thinke it to be that RATAE which Ptolomee nameth RAGAE, although there is neither tippe nor toe remaining in it of the name RATAE: un∣lesse peradventure it be in that old long Ditch and Rampire which they call Raw∣dikes,* 1.70 scarce halfe a mile without the South Gate.

Heere am I at a stand, and looke about me what way to follow for the seeking out of ancient Townes. Ranulph a Monke of Chester recordeth, that the ancient street way [ E] went through the wasts from hence to Lincolne, but hee telleth us not, through what Wasts. The common voice goeth that it went on still full North through Notting∣ham-shire: Antonine the Emperour (if I have any insight at all) seemeth to insinuate, that it passed North-Eastward through this County into Lincoln-shire. And verily, this way there are places of antique memory that by some of their remaines and tokens shew themselves: but the other way, I could not my selfe ever yet meete with any; what others have done I know not, and would willingly learne.

North-West from Leicester, and not farre off is Grooby a large Lordship and Manor which from Hugh Grantmaismill whom King William the Conquerour had enriched with great possessions and revenewes, came by the Earles of Leicester, and the Quin∣cies, [ F] unto the house of the Ferrers:* 1.71 out of which the Lord Ferrers of Grooby flourished a long time in the honorable state of Barons: and in the end, Isabel the only daugh∣ter remaining of the right line, brought it by her marriage into the name of the Greies, from whence it fell againe at the last by Attainder into the Kings hands. But

Page 521

[ A] whiles I was revising of this Worke, our Soveraigne Lord King James restored Sir Henry Grey a worthy Knight to the ancient honour of his noble Progenitors, crea∣ting him Baron Grey of Grooby in the first yeare of his Raigne.

Now let us returne to the River Soar,* 1.72 which being past Leicester, first giveth name to Montsorell, or rather Mont-Soar-hill, a name compounded of Norman and Eng∣lish both: which now is famous onely for a Mercate there kept: but in old time most renowned for the Castle, seated upon a steepe and craggy Hill, hanging over the Ri∣ver, which before time belonged to the Earles of Leicester, but afterwards to Saer de Quincy Earle of Winchester in the Barons warre; at this day nothing but a rude heape of rubbish: For, in the yeere 1217. the Inhabitants of the Towne, when af∣ter [ B] a long Siege they had wonne it,* 1.73 rased it downe to the very ground, as being the Devils nest, and a Den of theeves, robbers, and rebels. Somwhat higher on the other side of the River standeth Barrow: where is digged lime, commended above all other for the strong binding thereof. After, some few miles from thence, Soar while hee seeketh Trent, leaveth Leicester-shire,* 1.74 a little above Cotes now the habitation of the Family of Skipwith originally descended out of York-shire,* 1.75 and enriched many yeeres since with faire Possessions in Lincoln-shire, by an heire of Ormesbie. On the opposite banke of Soar standeth Lough-borrough a Mercate Towne,* 1.76 which adorned one onely man with the name of Baron, to witte, Sir Edward Hastings; and that in the Raigne of Queene Mary. But when shee, of whom he was most dearely loved, departed [ C] this life, hee taking a loathing to the World was not willing to live any longer to the World; but wholy desirous to apply himselfe to Gods Service, retired into that Hospitall which hee had erected at Stoke Pogeis in Buckingham-shire; where with poore people hee lived to God, and among them finished the course of his life de∣voutly in Christ. That this Lough-borrow is that Towne of the Kings named in the Saxon Tongue 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, which as Marianus saith Cuthwulph tooke from the Bri∣tans in the yeere of Christ 572. the neere affinity of the name may yeeld some proofe. But now among all the Townes of this Shire it rightfully chalengeth the second place next unto Leicester, whether a man either regard the bignesse or buil∣ding thereof, or the pleasant Woods about it. For, within very little of it, the Fo∣rest [ D] of Charnwood or Charley stretcheth it selfe out a great way,* 1.77 wherein is seene Beaumanour Parke, which the Lords of Beaumont (as I have heard) fensed round about with a stone Wall. These Beaumonts descended from a younger sonne of John Coun∣ty of Brene in France, who for his high honour, and true valour was preferred to marry the heire of the Kingdome of Jerusalem,* 1.78 and with great pompe crowned King of Jerusalem in the yeere of our Lord 1248.* 1.79 Hence it is that wee see the Armes of Jerusalem so often quartered with those of Beaumont in sundry places of England. Sir Henry Beaumont was the first that planted himselfe in England about the yeere 1308. who advanced to the marriage of an heire of Alexander Comine Earle of Boghan in Scotland (whose mother was one of the heires of Roger Quincy Earle of [ E] Winchester) entred upon a very goodly and faire inheritance, and so a great Family was propagated from him. Hee in the Raigne of Edward the Third, for certaine yeeres was summoned to the Parliament, by the name of Earle of Boghan, and John Lord Beamont in the Raigne of Henry the Sixth was for a time Constable of England, and the first to my knowledge, that in England received at the Kings hands the state and Title of a Vicount.* 1.80 But when William the last Vicount was dead without issue, his sister was wedded to the Lord Lovell, and the whole inheritance afterwards, which was rich and great, by attainder of Lovell fell into the hands of King Henry the Seventh.

In this North part we meete with nothing at all worth the naming, unlesse it be a [ F] little religious house, which Roise Verdon founded for Nunnes and called it Grace-Dieu, now belonging to a younger house of the Beaumonts: and where the Trent runneth, hard by,* 1.81 is Dunnington, an ancient Castle built by the first Earles of Leicester: which afterwards came to John Lacy Earle of Lincolne, who procured unto it from King Ed∣ward the First the priviledge of keeping a Mercate and Faire. But when as in that

Page 522

great proscription of the Barons under King Edward the Second the hereditaments [ A] of Thomas Earle of Lancaster, and Alice Lacy his Wife were seised into the Kings hands, and alienated in divers sorts, the King enforced her to release this Manour unto Hugh Le Despenser the younger.

The East part of this Shire which is hilly and feedeth great numbers of Sheepe, was adorned with two places of especiall note;* 1.82 VERNOMETUM or VERO∣METUM, whereof Antonine the Emperour hath made mention, and Burton-La∣zers, both in the ages fore-going of very great name and reputation. VERNOME∣TUM, which now hath lost the name, seemeth to have stood (for I dare not affirme it) in that place, which at this day men call Burrowhill and Erd-burrow: For, betweene VEROMETUM and RATAE, according to Antonine his reckoning are twelve [ B] Italian miles; and so many well neere there be, from Leicester to this place.

The name Burrow also that it hath at this day came from 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, which in the Sax∣on Tongue signifieth, a place fortified, and under it a Towne called Burrough be∣longing to an old Family of Gentlemen so sirnamed. But, (that which maketh most for proofe) in that very place there riseth up an hill with a steepe and upright ascent on every side, but South Eastward: in the top whereof appeare the expresse tokens of a Towne destroyed, a duple Trench, and the very Tract where the Wals went, which enclosed about eighteene Acres of ground within. At this day it is arable ground, and is nothing so famous, as in this, that the youth dwelling round about were wont yeerely to exercise themselves in wrestling and other games in this place. [ C] And out of the very name a man may conjecture, that there stood there some great Temple of the Heathen Gods.* 1.83 For, VERNOMETUM in the ancient Gauls lan∣guage, which was the same that the old Britans tongue, soundeth as much as A great Temple; as Venantius Fortunatus in the first booke of his Songs plainly sheweth, wri∣ting of Vernometum a Towne of Gaule in these Verses.

Nomine Vernometum voluit vocitare vetustas, Quod quasi fanum ingens Gallica lingua sonat. In elder time this place they term'd by name of VERNOMET, Which sounds in language of the Gauls, as much as Temple Great. [ D]

* 1.84As for Burton, sirnamed Lazers, of Lazers (for so they used to terme folke infected with the Elephantiasie or Leprosie) was a rich Spittle-house, or Hospitall, under the Master whereof, were in some sort all other small Spittles or Lazer-houses in Eng∣land, like as himselfe also was under the Master of the Lazers in Hierusalem. It was founded in the first age of the Normans, by a common contribution over all England, and the Mowbraies especially did set to their helping hands. At which time the Le∣prosie which the learned terme Elephantiasis,* 1.85 (because the skins of Lepres are like to that of Elephants) in grievous manner by way of contagion ranne over all England. For, it is verily thought that this disease did then first creepe out of Aegypt into this [ E] Island: which eft-once had spread it selfe into Europe: first of all in Pompeius Ma∣gnus his dayes: afterwards, under Heraclius, and at other times as we may see in the Histories, whether by celestiall influence, or other hidden causes I leave to the lear∣ned. But so farre as I could hitherto reade, it did never set foote in England before that time. Besides these places before named of great name and marke, wee must not overpasse neither Melton Mowbray neere unto this Burton,* 1.86 a Mercate Towne bearing name of the Mowbraies sometime Lords thereof, wherein is nothing more worth the seeing,* 1.87 than a faire Church; nor Skeffington, standing farther off, which as it hath given name to a worshipfull Family,* 1.88 so againe it hath received worship and credit from the same. [ F]

The River that watereth this part of the Shire, is by the Inhabitants about it cal∣led the Wreken, along which upon resemblance of the name I have sought VER∣NOMETUM, but in vaine. This Wreken gathereth a strong streame by many lively Brookes resorting unto it,* 1.89 whereof one passeth by Wimondham an ancient habitation

Page 523

[ A] of a younger branch of the house of the Lords Barkleis, well encreased by an heire of Dela-Laund, and so on by Melton Mowbray before mentioned, by Kirkby Bellers; (where there was a Priory) having that addition of the Bellers, a respective, rich, and noble Family in their time,* 1.90 by Brokesby a seat now of the Villiers of an old Norman race, and descended from an heire of Bellers: which Brokesby imparted formerly the sirname to the Brokesbies of especiall antiquity in these parts. Then the Wreken speed∣eth by Ratcliffe high mounted upon a cliffe and within few miles conjoyneth it selfe to Soar, neere unto Mont-Soar-hill, before mentioned.

Whatsoever of this Shire lieth beyond the Wreken Northward, is not so frequent∣ly inhabited, and part of it is called the Wold, as being hilly without wood; wherein [ B] Dalby a seat of the old Family of the Noels, of whom I shall speake elsewhere, and Waltham on the Wold, a meane Mercat, are most notable. Through this part as I have beene enformed passeth the Fosse-way, made by the Romans from Lewing Bridge, by Segrave which gave sirname to the honourable Family often mentioned, and the Lodge on the Wold toward the Vale of Bever, but the Tract thereof as yet I know not.

This Shire hath beene more famous from time to time by reason of the Earles thereof have beene very renowned.* 1.91 And seeing it had under the Saxons government Earles by inheritance, I will first reckon them up in order, as Thomas Talbot a skilfull Antiquary hath delivered me a note of them out of the kings Records. In the time of Aethelbald King of the Mercians, and in the yeere of our Redemption 716. Leofrick [ C] was Earle of Leicester, whom there succeeded in direct line Algar the first, Algar the second, Leofrick the second, Leofstane, Leofrick the third buried in Coventry, Al∣gar the third, who had issue two sonnes, Aeadwin Earle of March, Morkar Earle of Northumberland, and a daughter named Lucy, first married to Ivon Talboys of Anjou, afterwards to Roger of Romara, who begat of her William of Romara Earle of Lin∣colne. Now when as the issue male of this Saxon Family failed, and the name of the Saxons was troden (as it were) under foot, Robert Beaumont a Norman Lord of Pont Audomar and Earle of Mellent, (after that Simon an officiary Earle of Leicester was dead) obtained his Earledome in the yeere of our Lord 1102. at the bountifull hand of King Henry the First:* 1.92 which Robert, A man for skill and knowledge excellent, [ D] faire spoken, subtile, wise, and witty, and by nature wily, who while hee lived in high and glo∣rious estate, an other Earle carried away his wife from him: whereupon in his old age being much troubled in minde, he fell into deepe melancholy. After him succeeded from father to sonne three Roberts,* 1.93 the first sirnamed Bossu because hee was crook-backed, who after he had rebelled against King Henry the First, weary of his loose irregular life, became a Chanon Regular; the second sirnamed Blanch-maines of his lily-white-hands, who sided with the young King against King Henry the Second, and dyed in the expedition of King Richard the First to the Holy Land; the third sirnamed Fitz-Parnell, because his mother was * 1.94 Parnels daughter and one of the heires to Hugh Grant-maismill the last, in whose right hee was Seneschall or Steward of Eng∣land, [ E] and died issuelesse in the time of King John.

A few yeeres after, Simon Montfort descended from a base sonne of Robert King of France, who had married the sister of Robert Fitz-Parnell, enjoyed this honour. But after that hee and his were expelled in the yeere 1200. as wholy devoted to the French, Ranulph Earle of Chester attained unto this Dignity, not in right of inheri∣tance,* 1.95 but by his Princes favour. Howbeit, afterwards Simon Montfort sonne of the foresaid Simon obtained this honour, when Almarik his eldest brother surren∣dred up his right before King Henry the Third. This Simon, stood in so gracious fa∣vour with King Henry the Third, that hee called him home againe out of France when he was banished, heaped upon him great wealth, admitted him unto the Earle∣dome [ F] of Leicester, granted to him the Stewardship of England, and to honour him the more gave him his owne sister in marriage. But hee, thus over-heaped with honourable benefits, when he had no meanes to requite them (such is the perverse wilfulnesse of men) beganne hatefully to maligne him,* 1.96 yea and did most wickedly molest the good King having so well deserved, making himselfe Ringleader to the

Page 524

rebellious Barons, and with them raising horrible tempests of civill warre, in which [ A] himselfe also at length was overthrowne and slaine.

As for his Honours and Possessions, King Henry the Third gave and graunted them to Edmund his owne younger sonne Earle of Lancaster. So afterward this ho∣nour lay as it were obscured among the Titles of the house of Lancaster: and Mawde the daughter of Henry Duke of Lancaster being married to Henry Duke of Bavaria, Earle of Henault, Holland, Zeland, &c. added unto his other Titles, this of Earle of Leicester also: For, in the Charter dated the five and thirty yeere of King Edward the Third,* 1.97 hee is in plaine termes stiled William Earle of Henhault and of Lei∣cester: yea and, as we finde in the Inquisition made Anno 36. of the said King Ed∣ward the Third, shee by the name of Dutchesse of Bavaria, held the Castle, Manour, [ B] and Honour of Leicester. After whose decease without issue, that honour reverted to John of Gaunt Duke of Lancaster who had wedded Blanch the other sister of Mawde. From which time it became united to the House of Lancaster, untill in our remem∣brance it reflourished in L. Robert Dudley, who was by Queene Elizabeth girt with the sword of the Earledome of Leicester, and extraordinarily favoured: whereupon the States Generall of the united Provinces in their great troubles chose him trium∣phantly for their absolute Governour, and soone after as contemptuously rejected him, reserving all Soveraignty to themselves. But after a short time he passed out of this transitory life in the yeere 1588. leaving the fame onely of his greatnesse behinde him. [ C]

Within this Shire are 200. Parish Churches.

Page [unnumbered]

Page [unnumbered]

[illustration]
RVTLANDIAE Omnium in Anglia Comitatu: um minimus Pars olim CORITANORVM.

Page 525

[ A] RUTLAND-SHIRE.

RUTLAND, in the old English Saxon tongue 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, is en∣vironed within Leicester-shire, unlesse it be on the South∣side, where it lieth upon the river Welland, and on the East∣side, where it butteth upon Lincoln-shire. A Country no∣thing inferiour to Leicester-shire either in fruitfull qualitie of soile, or pleasantnesse, but in quantitie onely, as being the least County of all England. For, lying in forme almost [ B] round like a circle, it is in compasse so farre about, as a light horseman will ride in one day. Whence it is, that the Inhabitants tell a tale of I wote not what king, who should give to one Rut so much land as he could ride about in one day: and that he, forsooth, rode about this shire within the time appoin∣ted, and so had it given him, and named it by his owne name Rutland. But let such fables bee packing: I would not have the trueth prejudiced with an extrava∣gant tale.

And where as the earth in this shire is every where red,* 1.98 and so red that even the sheepes fleeces are thereby coloured red: whereas also the English-Saxons called [ C] Red in their tongue Roet and Rud; may we not suppose that this Countrey was na∣med Rutland, as one would say a Redland? For, as saith the Poet.

Conveniunt rebus nomina saepè suis. The names, as often times we see, With things themselves full well agree.

Now, that places in all Nations have had their names of rednesse, Rutlan Castle in Wales, built on a shore of red earth, Redbay, Redhill, Redland, The Red Promontory, The Red-Sea also betwixt Aegypt and Arabia, Erytheia in Ionia, and a number besides [ D] may proove most evidently: So that there is no cause why we should give credit to fables in this behalfe. As for this little County, it may seeme to have beene ordained a Shire or County but of late daies. For, in King Edward the Confes∣sors time, it was counted a part of Northampton-shire, and our Historiographers who wrote three hundred yeeres agoe and upward, reckoned it not in the number of Shires.

Wash or Guash, a little river, which runneth from the West Eastward through the middle of it, divideth it in twaine. In the hithermore or South part riseth Uppingham upon an high ascent,* 1.99 whence that name was imposed, not memora∣ble for any thing else, but because it is counted a well frequented Mercat towne, [ E] and hath for to shew a proper Schoole, which together with another at Okeham R. Ihonson a Minister of Gods word, in a good and laudable intent, for the training up of children in good literature lately erected, with the money he had gotten to∣gether by way of collection. Under this standeth Drystoke, which in no wise is to be passed over with silence, considering it hath been the habitation from old time of a right ancient race of the Digbyes: which (I grieve to utter it, but all men know it) hath now caught a deepe steine by Sir Everard Digby drawne into that cur∣sed crew, who most horribly complotted with one divelish flash of hellish Gun-pouder to blow up both Prince, and Country. More Eastward upon the river Welland, I saw nothing remarkeable, unlesse it be Berohdon, now Barodon, which [ F] Thomas Beauchamp Earle of Warwicke held,* 1.100 with South Leffingham, now South Luf∣fenham, and other Hamelets,* 1.101 by service to be the Kings Chamberlaine in the Ex∣chequer.

On the further part beyond the river, among the hils, there spreadeth below a ve∣ry pleasant and fruitfull vale, named at this day The vale of Catmose, happily of

Page 526

Coet maes, which signifieth in the Brittish tongue a field full of woods. In the middest [ A] whereof Okeham sheweth it selfe, which by the like reason may seeme to have ta∣ken the name from Okes: where, hard by the Church which is large and faire, re∣maine the crackt and decaying walls of an old Castle: which, Walkelin de Ferraris built in the first times of the Norman Kings. And that it hath been the dwelling place of the Ferrars, besides the credit of writers, and generall report, the great horse shoes, which in times past that family gave in their armes, fastned upon the gate and in the hall, may sufficiently proove. Afterwards it belonged to the Lords of Tatteshall: But when King Richard the second had promoted Edward, the Duke of Yorkes sonne, to the Earledome of Rutland, he gave unto him this Castle also. But within our Fathers remembrance it befell unto Thomas Cromwel,* 1.102 and was repu∣ted [ B] the seat of his Baronie:* 1.103 whom King Henry the Eighth advanced to the highest pitch of dignity: and streightwaies when by his plotting and attempting of many matters he had cast himselfe into the tempestuous stormes of envy and displeasure, bereft him on a sudden both of life and dignity.

* 1.104Over against it Eastward, there standeth Burley most daintily seated, and over∣looking the vale: A stately and sumptuous house now of the Haringtons, who by marrying the daughter and heire of Colepeper, became Lords of so faire an inheri∣tance; that ever since they have flourished in these parts, like as before time the Colepepers had done, unto whom by N. Green the wealthy and goodly Livelod of the Bruses in part had descended. As for those Bruses, being men of the chiefe No∣bility [ C] in England, they were engraffed into the Roiall stocke and family of Scot∣land: out of whom by Robert the eldest brother, the race Roiall of Scotland are sprung-like as by Bernard the younger brother, the Cottons of Connington in Hunting∣don-shire (of whom I have written already) and these Haringtons.* 1.105 In which regard and gracious respect King James advanced Sir Iohn Harington branched from that stem that the ancient Lords Harington, to the title of Baron Harington of Exton, a towne adjacent, where he hath also an other faire house.

Moreover, on the East side, by the river Guash, stands Brigcasterton, whereof I will say more afterward, and Rihall: where, when superstition had so bewitched our an∣cestours, that the multitude of their pety Saints, had well neere taken quite away [ D] the true God, one Tibba a pety Saint or Goddesse, reputed to bee the tutelar patro∣nesse, of Hauking,* 1.106 was of Foulers and Faulkoners worshipped as a second Diana: Essendon also is neere adjoyning; the Lord whereof Sir Robert Cecil, a good sonne of a right good father (the strength and stay of our Common-wealth in his time) was by King James created Baron Cecil of Essendon in the first yeere of his reigne.

This little County King Edward the Confessor, by his last Will and Testament bequeathed unto his wife Eadith,* 1.107 yet with this condition, that after her death it should come to S. Peter of Westminster. For, these be the very words of the said Testament. I will, that after the death of Queene Eadith my wife, ROTELAND with all the appertenances thereto, be given to my Monastery of the most blessed Saint Peter, and be [ E] yeelded up without delay for ever unto the Abbot and to the Monkes there serving God: yet King William the Conquerour cancelled and made voide this Testament, who re∣serving a great part of it to himselfe, divided the rest betweene Countesse Iudith, whose daughter was married to David King of Scots, Robert Mallet, Oger, Gislebert of Gaunt, Earle Hugh, Aubrey the Clerk, and others: And unto Westminster, first he left the Tithes, afterwards the Church onely of Okeham and parcels thereunto appertaining.

This County hath not had many Earles. The first Earle of Rutland, was Ed∣ward, the first begotten Sonne of Edmund of Langley Duke of Yorke, created by King Richard the Second upon a singular favour that he cast unto him during his [ F] Fathers life, and afterwards by the same King advanced to the honour of Duke of Aumarle. This young man, wickedly projected with others a practise to make away King Henry the Fourth, and streight waies with like levity discovered the same: But after his Fathers death, being Duke of Yorke lost his life fighting

Page 527

[ A] couragiously amid the thickest troupes of his enemies in the battaile of Agin∣court. Long time after, there succeeded in this Honour Edward the little young Sonne of Richard Duke of Yorke, and he together with his Father, during those deadly broiles of civill warre, was slaine in the battaile fought at Wakefield.

Many yeeres after, King Henry the Eighth, raised up Sir Thomas Mannours, to be Earle of Rutland, who in right of his Grand-mother Aeleonor was possessed of a goodly and faire inheritance of the Barons Roos, lying in the countries round a∣bout, and elsewhere. In his roome succeeded his Sonne Henry, and after him like∣wise Edward his Sonne, unto whom if I should say nothing else, that commenda∣tion of the Poet was most aptly and truly appliable.

[ B] —Nomen virtutibus aequat, Nec sinit ingenium nobilitate premi.
His name so great with vertues good, he matcheth equally, Nor suffreth wit smuthring to lie under Nobility.

But he, by over hasty and untimely death, being received into Heaven, left this dignity unto John his Brother: who also departing this life within a while, hath for his successor, Roger his Sonne, answerable in all points to his ancient and right no∣ble [ C] parentage.

This small Shire hath Parish Churches 48.

Page [unnumbered]

Page [unnumbered]

Page [unnumbered]

[illustration]

Page [unnumbered]

[illustration]
LINCOLNIAE Comitatus vbi olim insederunt CORITANI

Page [unnumbered]

Page 529

[ A] LINCOLNE-SHIRE.

VPon Rutland on the East side, confineth the County of LIN∣COLNE, called by the English-Saxons 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, and by the Normans Nicol-shire after their comming into the Land, with some transposition of letters, but usually LINCOLNE-SHIRE. A very large Country, as reaching almost threescore miles in length, and carrying in some places above thirty miles [ B] in bredth: passing kinde for yeeld of Corne, and feeding of Cattaile, well furnished and set out with a great number of Townes, and watered with many Rivers. Upon the Eastside, where it bendeth out∣ward with a brow fetching a great compasse, the German Ocean beateth on the shore: Northward it recheth to Humber an arme of the sea: on the West side it butteth upon Nottingham-shire: and on the South it is severed from Northampton-shire by the River Welland. This whole Shire is divided into three parts, whereof one is called Holland: a second Kesteven, and the third Lindsey. Holland, which In∣gulph termeth Holland lyeth to the sea, and like unto that Holland in Germanie, it is so throughly wet in most places with waters, that a mans foote is ready to sinke into it, [ C] and as one standeth upon it, the ground will shake and quake under his feet: and thence it may seeme to have taken the name: unlesse a man would with Ingulph say that Holland is the right name, and the same imposed upon it, of Hay which our Progenitours broadly called Hoy.

This part throughout beareth upon that ebbing and flowing arme of the Sea, which Ptolomee calleth METARIS,* 1.108 instead of Maltraith, and wee at this day, The Washes. A very large arme this is and passing well knowne, at every tide and high sea covered all over with water, but when the sea ebbeth, and the tide is past, a man may passe over it as on dry land, but yet not without danger. Which, King John learned with his losse. For, whilest he journied this way, when he warred upon the rebelli∣ous [ D] Barons, the waters suddenly brake in upon him, so that at Fosse-dyke, and Welstream he lost all his carriage and princely furniture, as Matthew of Westminster writeth.

This Country which the Ocean hath laied to the land, as the Inhabitants beleeve, by sands heaped and cast together, they it terme Silt, is assailed on the one side with the said Ocean sea, and in the other with a mighty confluence of waters from out of the higher countries, in such sort that all the Winter quarter the people of the coun∣try are faine to keepe watch and ward continually, and hardly with all the bankes and dammes that they make against the waters, are able to defend themselves from the great violence and outrage thereof. The ground bringeth forth but small store of corne, but plenty of grasse, and is replenished abundantly with fish and water-fowle. [ E] The Soile throughout is so soft, that they use their Horses unshod: neither shall you meet so much as with a little stone there, that hath not beene brought thither from other places: neverthelesse, there bee most beautifull Churches standing there built of foure square stone.

Certaine it is, that the sea aforetime had entred farther up into the Country, and that appeareth by those bankes formerly raised against the waterwaves then in-rush∣ing, which are now two miles off from the shore, as also by the hils neere Sutterton, which they call Salt-Hils.* 1.109 But, of fresh water there is exceeding great want in all places: neither have they any at all but raine water and that in pits, which if they be of any great depth, presently become brackish, if shallow, they dry up as soone. [ F] Neither are there Quicksands wanting,* 1.110 which have a wonderfull force to draw to them and to hold fast, as both Shepheards and their poore Sheepe also finde other whiles not without danger.

This Holland or Hoiland (whether you will) is divided into two parts. The Lower and the Higher: The Lower hath in it soule and slabby quavemires, yea and most

Page 530

troublesome Fennes, which the very Inhabitants themselves for all their stilts cannot [ A] stalke through. And considering that it lieth very low and flat, fenced it is of the one side against the Ocean, on the other from those waters which overwhelme the upper part of the Isle of Ely, with mighty piles and huge bankes opposed against the same. Of which, Southybanke is of greatest name; which least it should have a breach made through it with that infinite masse of water that falleth from the South part, when the Rivers swell, and all is overflowne by inundation, the people watch with great care and much feare, as against a dangerous enemy. And yet for the draining away of this water, the neighbour Inhabitants at the common charges of the coun∣try beganne to make a new chanell at Clowcrosse in the yeere 1599. Neere unto this banke aforesaid,* 1.111 we saw Crowland, which also is called Croyland, a Towne of good note among the Fenne-people, the name whereof soundeth, as Ingulph the Abbat of [ B] this place interpreteth it, as much as A raw and muddy Land: A place, as they write, much haunted in times past with I wot not what sprites and fearefull apparitions, before that Guthlake a right holy and devout man led there an Eremits life. In whose memoriall Aethelbald King of the Mercians founded to the honour of God at his great charges, in the yeere of our Salvation 716. an Abbay very famous both for opinion of the religious life of the Monkes, and also for their wealth. Concerning which, take heere, if you please, these Verses of Foelix a Monke of good antiquity, out of the life of Guthlake.

Nunc exercet ibi se munificentia Regis, [ C] Et magnum templum magno molimine condit. At cum tam mollis, tam lubrica, tam malè constans Fundamenta palus non ferret saxea, palos Praecipit infigi quercino robore caesos, Leucarúmque novem spacio rate fertur arena; Inque solum mutatur humus, suffultáque tali Cella basi, multo stat consummata labore.
His bounty now the King doth there bestow, [ D] An Abbay faire with much expense to reare. But seeing that the waterish Fenne below, Those ground-workes laid with stone uneath could beare, (So quaving soft and moist the Bases were) He caused piles made of good heart of oke, Pitch't downe to be with maine commanders stroke. Then nine leagues off, men sand in Barges brought, Which once fast ramm'd by painfull workmans hand, Of rotten earth good solid ground was wrought; On which for aye such workes might firmely stand; [ E] And thus by this devise of new plantation, The Church stands firme and hath a sure foundation.

* 1.112If I should exemplifie unto you out of that Monke, the Devils of Crowland, with their blabber lips, fire-spitting mouthes, rough and skaly visages, beetle heads, terri∣ble teeth, sharpe chins, hoarse throats, blacke skinnes, crump-shoulders, side and gor-bellies, burning loines, crooked and hawm'd legges, long tailed buttockes, and ugly mishapes, which heeretofore walked and wandered up and downe in these pla∣ces, and very much troubled holy Guthlake and the Monkes, you would laugh full merily: and I might bee thought a simple sily-one full worthily. Howbeit, in re∣gard [ F] of the admirable situation of this place, so farre different from all others in England, and considering the Abbay was so famous, I am well content to dwell a while in the description of these particulars. Amid most deepe Fennes and standing wa∣ters in a muddy and miry ground this Crowland lyeth so shut up and divided round

Page 531

[ A] about from all entrance, that there is no accesse to it, unlesse it bee on the North and East side, and that by narrow Cawsies. Seated it is for all the world, if I may re∣semble great and small things together, like unto Venice. Three streets it hath and those severed one from another by water courses betweene, planted thicke with willowes, and raised upon piles or postes pitched and driven downe deepe into the standing waters, having over them a triangle Bridge of admirable workmanship, under which for to receive the fall of the waters meeting in one confluence, the In∣habitants report there was a pit sunke of a mighty depth. Now, whereas beyond the Bridge in solum mutatur humus (as that Monke said) that is, The mould is chaunged, and is become firme and solid ground, there stood in times past that famous Abbay, and [ B] the same verily taking up but a small plot of ground: about which, all (save where the Towne standeth) is so rotten and moorish, that a man may thrust a pole downe right thirty foote deepe: and round about it every way is nothing but a plot of reeds; and next unto the Church a place planted with Alders. Howbeit, the Towne is well enough peopled with Inhabitants, who have their Cattaile a great way from the Towne, and when they are to milke them, they goe in little punts or boats that will carry but two a peece, (which they call Skerries:) yet the most gain∣full trade they have is by taking fish, and catching of water-foule; and that is so great, that in the moneth of August, they will spread a net and at once draw three thousand Mallards and wilde Duckes and such like together: and these pooles or watery plots [ C] of theirs, they use to terme their Corne fields: for, they see no Corne growing in five miles any way. In regard of this their taking of fish and fowle they paid yeerely in times past to the Abbat, as now they doe to the King, three hundred pounds of our money.

The private History of this Abbay I list not to relate (seeing it is commonly ex∣tant and to be seene) out of Ingulph now printed and published: yet my minde serves me well, briefely to record, that which Peter of Bloys Vice-chancellour to King Henry the Second reported at large, as touching the new building of this Abbay in the yeere of our Redemption 1112. to the end, that by this one president wee may learne, by what meanes and helpes, so mighty, so huge, and so faire religious houses [ D] were raised and built up in those times. Ioffrid the Abbat obtained of the Archbishops and Bishops in England, An Indulgence for the third part of penance enjoyned for sinnes committed, unto every one that helped forward so holy a worke. With this Indulgence he sent out Monkes every way and all about to gather money: wherewith when hee was now sufficiently furnished, to the end that hee might have an happy beginning of this worke from some happy names of lucky presage, hee solemnely appointed the day of Saint Perpetua, and of Saint Felicity, on which he would lay the first foun∣dation. At which day there came flocking in great numbers, the Nobles, the Pre∣lates, and Commons of all the Country thereabout. After the celebration of Di∣vine Service, and Anthems sung in parts, Abbat Ioffrid himselfe layed the first Corner [ E] stone Eastward; then the Noble men and great persons every one in their degree couched their stones, and upon the said stones some laid money, others their sealed Deeds of lands, Advousons of Churches, of Tenths of their Sheepe, and of the Tithes of their Churches, of certaine measures of wheat, and of a certaine number of Workemen, as Masons and Quarriers, whom they would pay. The common sort again and towneships for their parts, offered with chearefull devotion, some money, others one daies labour every moneth untill the worke were finished, some the buil∣ding of whole Pillars, others of the bases to the said Pillars, and others again to make certaine parts of the wals, striving a vie who should doe most. This done, the Ab∣bat after hee had in a solemne speech commended their devout bounty to so holy a [ F] worke, granted unto every one of them the fraternity of his Abbay, and the partici∣pation besides of all spirituall benefits in that Church: as praiers, blessings, &c. and so when he had entertained them with a very sumptuous feast, hee gave them his bles∣sing and dismissed them chearefully every man to his owne home. But I will dwell no longer in this matter. But hereby you may see how by small contributions great

Page 532

workes arose. From Crowland there goeth a Cawsey planted on both sides with Wil∣lowes, [ A] betweene the River Welland and the deepe Marishes, Northward: upon which, two miles from Crowland, I saw the fragment of a Piramis with this Inscription.

〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉.

I SAY, THAT SAINT GUTH∣LAKE, [ B] THIS STONE HIS BOVND DOTH MAKE.

* 1.113Higher yet upon the same River is seated Spalding, enclosed round about with Ri∣verets and draines, a fairer Towne I assure you than a man would looke to finde in this Tract among such slabbes and water-plashes: where Ivo Talbois, whom Ingulph elsewhere calleth Earle of Anjou, gave an ancient Cell to the Monkes of Angiers in [ C] France. From hence as farre as to Deeping, which is ten miles off, Egelrick Abbat of Crowland, afterwards Bishop of Durham, made for the ease of travailers, as saith Ingulphus, through the middest of a vast Forest, and of most deepe Fennes, a sound causey of wood and sand, after his owne name called Elrich-road; which notwithstanding at this day is not to be seene.

In higher Hoiland that bendeth more into the North, first we have in sight Kirk∣ton, so named of the Church, which is passing faire; and then, where the River Wit∣ham hemnd in strongly with bankes on both sides runneth in a maine and full streame toward the sea,* 1.114 flourisheth Boston, more truely named Botolphs-towne. For, it carri∣ed that name from one Botolph a most holy and devout Saxon, who at Icanhoe, had a [ D] Monastery. A famous Towne this is, standing on both sides of the River Witham, which hath over it a wooden bridge of a great height; and well frequented by the meanes of a commodious haven unto it: the Mercat place is faire and large, and the Church maketh a goodly shew, as well for the beautifull building as the greatnesse thereof: the towre-steeple of it, which riseth up to a mighty height, doth, as one would say, salute passengers and travailers a great way off, and giveth direction also to the sailers. A lamentable overthrow it sustained in the Raigne of Edward the first. For, when bad and Ruffian-like behaviour rufled at that time over all England, cer∣taine military lusty fellowes having proclaimed heere a Justs or running at Tilt, at a Faire time, when there was much resort of people thither, came apparelled in the [ E] habit of Monkes and Chanons,* 1.115 set fire on the Towne in most places thereof, brake in upon Merchants with sodaine violence, tooke away many things by force, burnt a great deale more; in so much as our Historians write, that (as the ancient Writers re∣cord of Corinth when it was destroied) molten gold and silver ran downe in a streame together. The Ring-leader Robert Chamberlan, after hee had confessed the act, and what a shamefull deed had been committed, was hanged: yet could he not be wrought by any meanes to disclose his complices in this foule fault. But happier times raised Boston againe out of the ashes, and a staple for wooll here setled, did very much enrich it,* 1.116 and drew thither merchants of the Hanse Society, who had here their Guild. At this day it is for building faire, and by good trade rich. For, the Inhabitants give them∣selves [ F] both to merchandise and also to grasing.* 1.117 Nere unto this was the Barony de Cro∣eun or de Credonio, out of which family, Alan de Croeun founded the Priory of Freston; and at length Parnel heire of the family being twice married transferred no small in∣heritance, first to the Longchamps, which came to the Pedwardins; and secondly to John

Page 533

[ A] Vaulx, from whom the Barons Roos are descended. Beyond it scarce six miles, reach∣eth Holland: all which Ivo Talboys of Anjo received at the bountifull hands of king William the Conqueror,* 1.118 but Herward an English man, of good hope and full of douty courage, being sonne to Leofrick Lord of Brane or Burne not brooking his insolency, when he saw his owne and his Country mens safety now endangered; after he had received the cincture with a military Belt by Brann Abbat of Peterborough,* 1.119 whose stomacke rose also against the Normans, raised warre against him, oftentimes put him to flight, and at length carried him away captive, and suffered him not to bee ransomed but with such conditions that he might be received into the Kings favour, wherein he dyed his liege man. For so deserved his valour, which is alwayes com∣mended [ B] even in a very enemy. His Daughter being wedded to Hugh Enermeve Lord of Deping enjoyed his lands, which afterwards, as I understand, was devolved upon the Family of Wake,* 1.120 which being mightily enriched with the Possessions of the Estotevills, was of right great honour in these parts, untill the Raigne of Edward the Second: for then, by an heire Generall, their inheritance came by right of marriage unto Edmund of Woodstocke youngest sonne to King Edward the First, and Earle of Kent. But of a younger sonne, the ancient Family of the Wakes of Blisworth in Northampton-shire yet remaining is descended.

The second part of this Country commonly called Kesteven,* 1.121 and by Aethelward an ancient Authour, Ceostefnewood, adjoyning to Hoiland on the West side; is for aire [ C] farre more wholesome, and for Soile no lesse fruitfull. Greater this is and larger than the other, yea and garnished every where with more faire Townes. At the entry thereinto upon the river Welland standeth Stanford,* 1.122 in the Saxon tongue 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, built of rough stone, whence it hath the name. A Towne well peopled and of great resort, endowed also with sundry immunities, and walled about; It gave Geld or Tribute, as wee reade in Domesday Booke, for twelve hundreds and an halfe, in the army, shipping, and Danegeld, and in it were sixe Wards. What time as King Edward the elder fortified the South bankes of Rivers against the Danes breaking by force into the Land out of the North parts, Marianus recordeth, that hee built a very strong Castle just over against this Towne also on the South banke (which now is [ D] called Stanford Baron) yet there appeareth not any one token thereof at this day: for,* 1.123 that Castle which in time of the civill Warre Stephen strengthened against Henry of Anjou, was within the Towne, as both the generall report holdeth, and the very plot also whereon it stood as yet remaining, sheweth. But soone after, the said Henry, being now King of England, gave the whole Towne of Stanford, which was in his Demaine, excepting the fees or Feifs of the Barons and Knights of the same Towne, unto Richard de Humez or Homets, who was Constable to the King, his Soveraigne Lord, for his homage and service. And the same afterwards, held William Earle of Warren by the will and pleasure of King John.

Under the Raigne of Edward the Third,* 1.124 an University, and publique profession [ E] of good learning beganne heere, which the Inhabitants count no small credit unto them. For, when there was such hote debate and contention betweene the Northren and Southren Students at Oxford, a great number of Scholers withdrew themselves hither: but after a small while they returned upon the Kings Proclamation, to Ox∣ford, and as they sodainely beganne, so they ended as soone this new University: And thenceforward provided it was by oth, That no Student in Oxford should pub∣liquely professe or reade at Stanford to the prejudice of Oxford. Neverthelesse it flouri∣shed with fresh trading and merchandise, untill the civill warre, betweene the two houses of Lancaster and Yorke, grew so hore, that the Northren Souldiers breaking into the Towne destroyed all with fire and sword. Neither could it ever since that [ F] time fully recover the ancient Dignity. And yet now it is in good estate: and the civill government thereof consisteth of an Alderman and foure and twenty Burgesses his brethren. Beautified it is with seven Parish Churches or thereabout, and sheweth an old Hospitall and that a very faire house founded by William Browne a Burgesse there, besides another new one on this side the Bridge lately built by that Nestor of

Page 534

Britaine, Sir William Cecill Baron Burghley, what time as hee raised that stately and [ A] sumptuous house at Burghley, whereof I have spoken already in Northampton-shire, who lieth enterred here in a goodly and gorgeous Tombe within the Parish Church of Saint George; a man (to say nothing else of him) who by course of nature, and for his owne glory lived long enough, but in regard of his Country died oversoone.

Although some tokens remaining of antiquity, and the * 1.125 High-street, made by the Romans, which so soone as you are without the Towne leadeth you the direct way into the North, may sufficiently shew, that sometimes there was a Ferry or Waterfare heere.* 1.126 Yet that this Towne should be that GAUSENNAE, which Antonine the Emperour placeth not farre from hence, the said tokens of Antiquity doe not affoord sufficient proofe. But seeing that a mile from hence there is a little Village [ B] called Bridge-casterton (which very name carryeth with it the marke of Antiquity) where the River Guash or Wash crosseth the said High-street;* 1.127 the affinity of this name Guash with Gausenna, and the distance also making not against it, hath made mee to thinke that Gausennae was it which now is called Bridge-casterton, untill time bring truth to light. If I should thinke, that Stanford grew out of the ruines of this Towne, and that this part of the Shire was named Kesteven of GAUSENNAE, like as ano∣ther part, Lindsey, of the City Lindum, let this I pray you, bee but mine opinion, and judge yee thereof accordingly. It is supposed that this Gausennae was over∣throwne, when (as Henry Archdeacon of Huntingdon writeth) the Picts and Scots had spoiled all the Country, as farre as to Stanford: where Hengist and his English-Sa∣xons [ C] with their unwearied force and singular prowesse hindered the passage of those furious Nations, so that after many of them were slaine, and more taken prisoners, the rest betooke themselves to flight. But let us proceed to the rest.

On the East side of Kesteven which bendeth toward Hoiland, as wee goe North∣ward, these places stand in order:* 1.128 First, Deping, that is to say, (as Ingulph inter∣preteth it), Deepe Medow: Where, Richard de Rulos, Chamberlaine to William Conquerour, excluding the River Welland with raising up an high banke (for that it often overflowed) and building upon the said Banke many Tenements, made a great Vil∣lage. This Deping,* 1.129 or Deepe Medow, was very fitly so called, for, the plaine lying under it, and which taketh up in compasse many miles, is of all this fenny Country [ D] the deepest, and the very receptacle of most waters. And that which a man would mervaile at, it lyeth farre under the Chanell of the River Clen, which being held in with forced bankes,* 1.130 passeth by from out of the West. Then have you Burne, well knowne by occasion that King Edmund was crowned and the Wakes had a Castle there, who obtained unto this Towne, from King Edward the First, the liberty of a Mercate.

* 1.131More Eastward is Irnham, a seat of the Barony in times past of Sir Andrew Lutterell. Beyond it is Sempringham, famous in these daies by reason of that passing faire house, which Edward Lord Clinton, afterwards Earle of Lincolne built; but renowned in old time for the religious Order of the Gilbertines, instituted by Gilbert Lord of the place: [ E] for he, a wonderfull man, & in custodia mulierum gratiae singularis, that is, of singular grace in taking charge of women, in the yeere after Christs Nativity 1148. contrary to Justi∣nians Constitutions, which forbad Double Monasteries, that is to say, of men and wo∣men together; howbeit, well backed with the authority of Eugenius the third, Bi∣shop of Rome, ordained a Sect consisting of men and women; which so grew and encreased, that himselfe laied the foundations of thirteene religious houses of this Order,* 1.132 and whiles hee lived had in them 700. Gilbertine Brethren, and eleven hun∣dred Sisters; but no honester than they should be, if wee may beleeve Niele, a scof∣fing Poet in those daies, who wrote thus of them:

Harum sunt quadam steriles, quaedam parientes, Virgineóque tamen nomine cuncta tegunt. Qua pastoralis baculi dotatur honore, Illa quidem meliùs, fertiliúsque parit.

Page 535

[ A] Vix etiam quaevis sterilis reperitur in illis, Donec eis aetas talia posse negat. Some barren are of these, some fruitfull be, Yet they by name of Virgins cover all: More fertile sure and better beareth she, Who blest is once with croysier pastorall: Now, scarce of them is found one barren Doe, Till age debarre, whether they will or no.

Then see you Folkingham,* 1.133 which also is now a Lordship of the Clintons, the Baro∣ny [ B] in times past of the Gaunts, who were descended from Gilbert de Gaunt, nephew to Baldwin Earle of Flaunders, unto whom by the liberality of King William the Con∣querour there fell great revenewes. For, thus we reade in an old manuscript: Me∣morandum, that with William Conquerour there came in one Gilbert de Gaunt, unto whom the said William gave the Manour of Folkingham, with all the Appertenances and the Honour thereunto belonging: and they expelled a certaine woman named Dunmoch. Of the said Gilbert came one Walter de Gaunt his sonne and heire, and of the said Walter came Gilbert de Gaunt his sonne and heire, also Robert de Gaunt a younger sonne. And from the said Gilbert the sonne and heire, came Alice his daughter and heire, who was espoused to Earle Simon, and shee gave many Tenements to religious men, and dyed without [ C] heire of her owne body. Then descended the inheritance to Robert de Gaunt aforesaid her unckle: and of the foresaid Robert came Gilbert his sonne and heire, and of the aforesaid, came another Gilbert his sonne and heire, and of the aforesaid, came another Gilbert his sonne and heire, who gave the Manour of Folkingham with the Appertenances to Edward the sonne of Henry King of England.* 1.134 This Gilbert as wee finde in the Plees, out of which this Pedegree is prooved, claimed service against Wil. de Scremby. And at length it came by gift of the Prince to Sir Henry Beaumont: For, most certaine it is, that he held it in the Raigne of Edward the Second.* 1.135

Neere unto this, is Screkingham, remarkable for the death of Alfrick the second, Earle of Leicester, whom Hubba a Dane slew. Of which place, it seemeth that In∣gulph [ D] spake, writing thus: In Kesteven were slaine three great Lords or petty Kings of the Danes, whom they buryed in a Village which was called before, Laundon, but now for the Sepulture of three Kings, Tre-King-ham. And more into the East, is Hather, in this regard onely to be mentioned,* 1.136 that the Busseis or Busleis heere dwell, who deduce their Race from Roger de Busly in the Conquerours time. Then Sleford, a Castle of the Bi∣shops of Lincolne,* 1.137 built by Alexander the Bishop: where Sir John Hussy the first and last Baron of that name created by King Henry the Eighth, built himselfe an house: who having unwittingly and unadvisedly in the yeere 1537. engaged himselfe with the common people in a tumultuous commotion, what time as the first dissention brake out in England about Religion, lost his head. Not many miles from hence stan∣deth [ E] Kime,* 1.138 which gave name to a noble family called De Kime: but the possession of the place came at length to the Umfranvils: of whom three were called to the Par∣liament by the name of the Earles of Anguse in Scotland. But the first of them, the lear∣ned in our common lawes would not acknowledge to be Earle, (for that Anguse was not within the limits of the Realme of England) untill hee produced openly in Court the Kings Writ, by vertue whereof he had been summoned by the King to the Parli∣ament, under the Title of Earle of Anguse. From the Umfravils this came unto the family of Talbois,* 1.139 of whom Gilbert was created by King Henry the Eighth Baron Talbois, whose two sonnes dying without issue, the inheritance was by the females transferred to the Dimocks,* 1.140 Inglebeies, and others. More Westward wee saw Temple [ F] Bruer, that is, as I interprete it, Temple in the Heath. For it seemeth to have beene a Commaundery of the Templers: considering that the decayed broken Walles of the Church there are seene in forme of the New Temple at London. Hard to it lyeth Blankenay,* 1.141 the Barony in times past of the D'incourts, who flourished successively a long time one after another from the Normans comming in unto King Henry the

Page 536

Sixth his time: For then, their male line determined in one William, who had [ A] two sisters for his heires, the one married to Sir William Lovell, the other to Sir Ralph Cromwell.* 1.142 The more willingly have I made mention of this Family, to give satisfaction in some measure unto the longing desire of Edmond Baron D'eincourt, who long since being carefull and earnest about the preservation of the memory of his name, as having no male Issue, put up an humble Petition to King Edward the Second,* 1.143 Whereas hee foresaw that his sirname and Armes after his death would bee quite forgotten, and yet heartily desired that after his decease they might bee still remembred, that hee might bee permitted to enfeoffe whomsoever it pleased him, both in his Manours and Armes also. Which request hee obtained, and it was graunted under the Kings Let∣ters Patents: yet for all that is this sirname now quite gone (to my knowledge) and [ B] had it not beene continued by the light of learning, might have beene cleane forgotten for ever.

In the West part of Kesteven and the very confines of this Shire and Leicester∣shire, standeth Belvoir,* 1.144 or Beauvoir Castle, so called of the faire prospect (what name soever it had in old time) mounted upon the top of a good steepe hill, built by Robert De Todeneie a Norman Nobleman,* 1.145 who also beganne the little Mona∣stery adjoyning, from whom by the Albeneies out of little Britaine, and the Ba∣rons Roos, it came by inheritance to the Mannors Earles of Rutland: of whom the first, that is to say, Thomas, as I have beene enformed, raised it up againe with newbuildings from the ground, when as it had for many yeeres lien buryed as [ C] it were in his owne ruines. For, in despite of Thomas Lord Roos, who tooke part with King Henry the Sixth, it was much defaced by William Lord Hastings, unto whom (after that the said Baron Roos was attainted) King Edward the Fourth had graunted it with very faire Lands. But Edmond Baron Roos sonne of the said Thomas, by the gracious favour of king Henry the seventh recovered this ancient Inheritance againe.* 1.146 About this Castle are found the Stones called Astroites, which resemble little Starres joyned one with another, wherein are to bee seene at every corner five Beames or Rayes, and in every Ray in the middest is small hollownesse. This Stone among the Germanes got his name of Victorie, for that, as George Agri∣cola writeth in his Sixth Booke of Mineralls, they are of opinion, that whoso∣ever [ D] carryeth it about him shall winne his suite and get victory of his enemies. But whether this Stone of ours, as that in Germany, being put in vineger, will stirre out of his place, and turne it selfe some-what round, I could never yet make tryall. Under this Castle lyeth a Vale and presenteth a most pleasant pro∣spect thereunto,* 1.147 whereupon it is commonly called, the Vale of Belver, which is very large and passing pleasantly beautified with Corne fields, and no lesse rich in pastures; lying stretched out in three Shires, of Leicester, Nottingham and Lincolne.

If not in this very place, yet hard by it, in all probability, stood that MARGI∣DUNUM,* 1.148 which Antonine the Emperour placeth next after VERNOMETUM, [ E] as both the name and the distance also from VERNOMETUM and the Towne PONT or Paunton, betweene which Antonine placeth it, may most plainly shew. It should seeme that ancient name Margidunum was borowed from Marga and the situation of it:* 1.149 For, Marga among the Britans is a kinde of earth named Marle wherewith they nourished and kept their grounds in heart: and DUNUM, which signifieth an Hill, agreeth onely to places higher mounted than others. And yet in this Etymology of the name I am in a doubt, seeing that Marle in this place is very geason or skant (happily because no man seeketh for it) unlesse the Britans by the name of Marga tearmed Plaister-stone, which is digged uppe hard by, as I have learned: the use whereof in white pargetting and in making [ F] of Images, was of especiall request among the Romans, as Plinie witnesseth in his Naturall History.

* 1.150Witham a River plentifull in Pikes but carrying a small streame, watereth this part of the Shire and on the North-side encloseth it. It hath his beginning by a

Page 537

[ A] little towne of the same name,* 1.151 not farre from the ruines of Bitham Castle, which, as we find in an old Pedigree King William the first gave to Stephen Earle of Albemarle and Holdernesse, that he might from thence have wherewith to feed his sonne, as yet a little infant, with fine wheat bread (considering that in Holdernesse they did eate in those daies oten bread onely, although they use now such kind of bread little or nothing at all.* 1.152) But in the reigne of King Henry the Third, when William de Fortibus Earle of Aumarle rebelliously kept this Castle, and thence forraged and wasted the country about it, it was laid well neere even with the ground. Afterward, this was the capitall seat,* 1.153 as it were, of the Barony of the Colvils, who along time flourished in very great honour: but the right line had an end under King Edward the Third: [ B] and then the Gernons and those notable Bassets of Sapcot, in right of their wives entred upon the inheritance.

This river Witham presently beneath his head hath a towne seated hard by it na∣med Paunton,* 1.154 which standeth much upon the antiquity thereof, where are digged up oftentimes pavements of the Romanes wrought with checker worke: and heere had the river a bridge over it in old time:* 1.155 For, that this is the towne AD PONTEM, which Antonine the Emperor placed seven miles distant from MARGIDUNUM, the name Paunton, together with the distance not onely from Margidunum but also from Crococalana doth easily convince:* 1.156 for in Antonine, that towne was called CROCO∣CALANA, which at this day is named Ancaster,* 1.157 and is no more but a long streete, [ C] through which the High-way passeth: whereof the one part not long since belonged to the Veseies, the other to the Cromwells. At the entry into it on the South part, we saw a rampier with a ditch, and certaine it is, that aforetime it had been a Castle: like as on the other side Westward, is to be seene a certaine summer standing campe of the Romanes. And it may seeme that it tooke a British name from the situation thereof. For it lieth under an hill: and Cruc-maur in British signifieth a Great hill, like as Cruc-occhidient, a mount in the West, as we read in Giraldus Cambrensis, and Ninnius: But what should be the meaning of that Calana, let others looke. The memory of an∣tiquity in this towne is continued and maintained by the Romane Coines, by the vaults under ground oftentimes discovered, by the site upon the High-street, and by [ D] those fourteene miles that are betweene it and Lincolne through a greene plaine, which we call Ancaster-Heath; for, just so many doth Antonine reckon betweene Croco-calana and Lindum. But now returne we to the river.

After Paunton,* 1.158 wee come to Grantham, a towne of good resort, adorned and set out with a Schoole built by Richard Fox Bishop of Winchester, and with a faire Church, having a spire-steeple of a mighty heigth, whereof there goe many fabu∣lous tales.

Beneath it, neere unto Herlaxton a little village, a brasen vessell in our fathers time was turned up with a plough,* 1.159 wherein a golden Helmet of a most antique fashion was found, set with precious stones: which was given as a present to Catherine of [ E] Spaine, wife and Dowager to King Henry the Eighth. From hence Witham passeth with a long course North-ward not farre from Somerton Castle:* 1.160 which Antonine Becc,* 1.161 Bishop of Durham built, and gave to King Edward the First: but a little after it was bestowed upon Sir Henry de Beaumont, who about that time came into Eng∣land and began the family of the Lords Beaumont:* 1.162 which in the foregoing age in some sort failed, when as the sister and heire of the last Vicount was married to John Lord Lovel de Tichmersh. But of this house I have spoken before in Leicester-shire. From thence, the river bending by little and little to the South-East, and passing through a Fenny Country, dischargeth it selfe into the German Sea beneath Boston, after it hath closed in Kesteven on the North.

[ F] On the other side of Witham,* 1.163 lieth the third part of this shire, named Lindsey, which, of the chiefe Citie of the Shire Bede called Lindissi: and being greater than Hoiland and Kesteven, butteth with a huge bowing front upon the Ocean, beating upon the East and North sides thereof. On the West part it hath the river Trent, and is seve∣red from Kesteven; on the South by that Witham aforesaid, and the Fosse Dike ancient∣ly

Page 538

cast and scoured by King Henry the First for seven miles in length from Witham [ A] into Trent,* 1.164 that it might serve the Citizens of Lincolne for carriage of necessaries by water.

* 1.165Where this Dike entreth into Trent, standeth Torksey, in the Saxon language 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, a little towne, and in these daies of small account, but in ancient times very famous.* 1.166 For, before the Normans comming in, as we finde in that booke where∣in King William the first set downe his survey of England, there were numbered in it two hundred Burgesses, who enjoyed many priviledges, on this condition, that they should transport the Kings Embassadours whensoever they came this way in their owne Barges along the Trent, and conduct them as farre as YORKE. But where this Dike joyneth to Witham, there is the principall City of this Shire placed: [ B] which Ptolomee and Antonine the Emperour called LINDUM, the Britans LIND∣COIT,* 1.167 of the woods (for which we finde it elsewhere written amisse Luit-coit) Bede, LINDE-COLLINUM, and LINDE COLLINA CIVITAS, whether it were of the situation upon an hill, or because it hath been a Colonie, I am not able to avouch. The Saxons termed it 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, and 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, the Normans most corruptly Nichol, we Lincolne, and the Latine writers Lincolnia: whereupon Alexander Necham in his booke intituled, Divine wisdome, writeth thus,

Lindisiae columen Lincolnia, sive columna, Munificâ foelix gente, repleta bonis. [ C] Lincolne the stay or piller sure of Lindsey thou maist bee, Blest for thy people bounteous, and goods that are in thee.

Others will have it to take that name of the river Witham, which they say was called by a more ancient name Lindis, but they have no authority to warrant them. Neither am I of their judgement: For, Necham is against it, who foure hundred yeeres agoe called the said river, Witham in this verse.

Trenta tibi pisces mittit Lincolnia, sed te, Nec dedigneris, Withama parvus adit. [ D] The Trent unto thee sendeth fish, O Lincoln, well we see; Yet little Witham, scorne it not, a riveret comes to thee.

I for my part would rather derive it from the British word Lhin, which with the Britans signifieth a Lake. For, I have been enformed of the Citizens, that Witham be∣low the Citie, by Swanpole was broader than now it is, and yet is it at this day of a good breadth: and to say nothing of Lindaw in Germanie, by the Lake Acronius, and of Linternum in Italie standing by a Lake; I see that in our Britaine, Tallhin, Glan-lhin, and Lhinlithquo, are townes by lakes sides. This Citie it selfe being large, well in∣habited and frequented, standeth upon the side of an hill, where Witham bendeth his [ E] course Eastward, and being divided with three small chanels, watereth the lower part of the Citie. That the ancient LINDUM of the Britans stood on the very top of the hill, which had a very hard ascent up to it, and reached out beyond the gate called Newport, the expresse tokens of a rampier and deepe ditches which are yet ve∣ry evident, doe plainely shew.

In this City, Vortimer that warlike Britan, who many a time discomfited the Saxons and put them to flight, ended his daies, and was heere contrary to his owne comman∣dement, buried. For, he was in a full and assured hope perswaded, that if he were en∣terred in the sea shore, his very ghost was able to protect the Britans from the Saxons, as writeth Ninius, the disciple of Elvodugus. But the English Saxons after they had [ F] rased this old Lindum, first possessed themselves of the South side of the hill, at the foot whereof they built, as it seemeth, the gate yet standing compiled of vast stones; and with the ruines of that more ancient Towne fortified it. Afterwards they went downe lower to the river side, built in a place that was called Wickanford, and walled

Page 539

[ A] it about on that side which is not fensed by the River: At which time, as saith Bede, Paulinus preached the Word of God unto the Province of Lindsey, and first of all converted unto the Lord, the Governour or Provost of Lincolne City, whose name was Blecca, with his family. In which very City, hee built also a Church of goodly stone worke, the roofe whereof being either fallen for want of repaire, or cast downe by the violent hand of enemies, the walles are seene standing to this day. After this the Danes wonne it by assault once or twice: First, those troupes of spoiling mates, out of whose hands King Edmund Iron∣side wrested it by force: then Canutus from whom Aetheldred regained it, when up∣on his returne out of Normandy, he valiantly forced Canutus to abandon the towne, and beyond all hope recovered England which before was lost. In the Raigne of [ B] Edward the Confessour, there were in it, as Domesday booke recordeth, a thousand and seventy Mansions, with lodgings to give entertainment, and twelve Lage men having Sac, and Soc. But in the Normans time, as saith William of Malmesbury, It was one of the best peopled Cities of England, and a place of traffique and merchandise, for all commers by sea and land: and as the same Domesday booke saith, there were at that time counted and taxed in this City 900. Burgesses: and many Mansions were laied waste, 166. for the Castle, and other 74. without the precinct of the Castle, not through the oppression of the Sheriffe and his Ministers, but by reason of mishap, poverty, and casualty by fire. The said King William the Conqueror for the strengthning of it and terrour of the Citizens, raised a pas∣sing large and strong Castle upon the brow of the hill: and almost at the very same [ C] time, Remigius Bishop of Dorchester for to give credit and ornament thereto translated hither his Episcopall seat from Dorchester, which was in the most remote corner of his Dioecesse and a small Towne. And when by this time that Church which Pauli∣nus had built was quite gone to decay, the same Remigius having purchased certaine houses with grounds lying unto them, in the very highest place of the City, neere unto the Castle (as Henry of Huntingdon saith) mounting up aloft with high and stately towres, built in a strong place a strong Church, in a faire plot a faire Church, and dedicated it to the Virgin of Virgins; notwithstanding the Archbishop of Yorke was enraged thereat, who chalenged to himselfe the propriety of the soile: and in it ordained 44. Prebendaries. Which Church after∣wards being sorely defaced with fire, as he saith, Alexander that most bountiful Bishop of Lin∣colne [ D] repaired, with skilfull artificiall workemanship. Of whom William of Malmesbury reporteth, because for his little low stature hee was a dwarfe among men, his minde laboured to rise aloft and shew it selfe to the world, with outward workes. And as concerning his boun∣ty a Poet of that time among other things wrote thus:

Qui dare festinans gratis, ne danda rogentur, Quod nondum dederat, nondum se credit habere. Who hastening frankly for to give, for feare that folke should crave: He never thought that he had that which yet he never gave.

[ E] Besides these two Bishops already mentioned Robert Bloet who sat there before Alexander, R. de Beaumeis, Hugh a Burgundian and their Successours, by little and little brought this Church, which could not bee one Bishops worke, to the stately magnificence that now it carryeth. Certes, as it is built, it is all throughout not one∣ly most sumptuous, but also passing beautifull, and that with rare and singular work∣manship: but especially that fore-front at the West end, which in a sort ravisheth and allureth the eyes of all that come toward it. In this Church, although there bee di∣vers Monuments of Bishops and others, yet these onely seeme memorable: That of Copper wherein the bowels of that right noble and vertuous Queene Aeleonor wife to King Edward the First are bestowed, who died at Hardby in this Shire: as also these [ F] following, wherein lye interred Sir Nicolas Cantlow, one or two of the Family of Burghersh: Lady Catherine Swinford the third wife of John of Gaunt Duke of Lancaster and mother of the house of Somerset, with whom lyeth buryed Joan her daughter, se∣cond wife to Raulph Nevill the first Earle of Westmerland, who enriched her husband with many happy children.

Page 540

The Bishops Diocesse of Lincolne not content with those streit limits, where∣with [ A] the Bishops of Sidnacester,* 1.168 who had Episcopall jurisdiction over this shire con∣tented themselves in the Primitive Church of the English Nation, conteined under it so many countries, as that the greatnesse thereof was burdenous unto it: And al∣though King Henry the Second tooke out of it the Province of Ely, and King Henry the Eighth the Bishopricks of Peterbourgh, and of Oxford, yet still at this day it is counted the greatest Diocesse by farre of all England, both for jurisdiction and num∣ber of shires: and the Bishop hath in his Diocesse one thousand two hundred forty seven Parish Churches.

Many and great Bishops since Remigius his time have governed this See, whom to reckon up is no part of my purpose. For, I will not insist either upon Robert Bloet, [ B] from whom King William Rufus wrung 50000. pounds, for securing his title in the very City of Lincolne it selfe, which was found defective: nor upon that prodigall and profuse Alexander, who in exceeding stately buildings was so excessively deligh∣ted: ne yet upon Hugh the Burgundian Canonized a Saint,* 1.169 whose corps King John, with his Nobles and friends about him to performe (as mine author saith) a dutifull service to God and that holy Saint, late Bishop, carried upon their shoulders to his buriall. How∣beit, the memory of two Prelates I must needs renew afresh: the one is Robert Grosthead,* 1.170 a man so well seene both in literature and in the learned tongues, in that age, as it is incredible: and to use the words of one then living, A terrible reproover of the Pope, an adviser of his Prince and Soveraigne, a lover of verity, a corrector of Prelates, [ C] a director of Priests, an instructor of the Clergy, a maintainer of Schollers, a Preacher to the people, a diligent searcher into the Scriptures, a mallet of the Romanists, &c. The other is mine owne Praeceptor, whom in all duty I must ever love and honour, that right re∣verend Father Thomas Cooper, who hath notably well deserved both of all the learned and also of the Church, in whose Schoole I both confesse and rejoice that I received education. The City it selfe also flourished a long time: being ordained by King Edward the Third for the Staple,* 1.171 as they tearme it, that is, the Mart, of Wooll, Lea∣ther, Lead, &c. Which although it hath not been over-laied with any grievous ca∣lamities, as being once onely set on fire, once also besieged in vaine by King Ste∣phen, who was there vanquished and taken prisoner, forced also and won by King [ D] Henry the Third, when the rebellious Barons, who had procured Lewis of France to chalenge the Crowne of England, defended it against him, without any great dam∣mage; yet incredible it is how much it hath been empaired by little and little, con∣quered as it were with very age and time: so that of fifty Churches which it had standing in our Great-grandfathers daies, there are now remaining scarce eighteene. It is remooved, that I may note this also, from the Aequator, 53. degrees and 12. scru∣ples: and from the West point, 22. degrees and 52. scruples.

* 1.172As that Street-way called Highdike goeth on directly from Stanford to Lincolne, so from hence Northward it runneth with an high and streight causey, (though heere and there it be interrupted) forward for ten miles space to a little Village called the [ E] Spittle in the Street, and beyond: By the which as I passed, I observed moreover, about three miles from Lincolne, another High-port-way also, called Ould-street, to turne out of this High dike Westward, carrying a bancke likewise evident to be seene, which, as I take it, went to AGELOCUM, the next baiting towne, or place of lodging, from LINDUM, in the time of the Romanes. But I will leave these, and proceed in the course that I have begun.

Witham being now past Lincolne, runneth downe not far from Wragbye, a member of the Barony called Trusbut,* 1.173 the title whereof is come by the Barons Roos un∣to the Mannours now Earles of Rutland. Then approcheth it to the ruines of a fa∣mous Abbay in times past called 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉,* 1.174 commonly Bardney; where Bede wri∣teth, [ F] that King Oswald was Entombed, with a Banner of gold and purple hanged over his Tombe. The writers in the foregoing age, thought it not sufficient to celebrate the memory of this most Christian worthy King Oswald, unlesse unto his glorious exploits they stitched also ridiculous miracles. But that his hand remained heere

Page 541

[ A] uncorrupted many hundred yeeres after, our Ancestours have beleeved, and a Poet of good antiquity hath written in this wise,

Nullo verme perit, nulla putredine tabet Dextra viri, nullo constringi frigore, nullo Dissolvi fervore potest; sed semper eodem Immutata statu persistit, mortua vivit. The mans right hand by no worme perisht is, No rottennesse doth cause it putrifie; No binding cold can make it starke, ywis, [ B] Nor melting heat, dissolve and mollifie; But alwayes in one state persist it will Such as it was: though dead, it liveth still.

This Abbay,* 1.175 as writeth Peter of Bloys, being sometime burnt downe to the ground by the Danes furious outrage, and for many revolutions of yeeres altogether forlorne, that no∣ble and devout Earle of Lincolne Gilbert de Gaunt reedified, and in most thankfull affecti∣onate minde assigned unto it with many other possessions, the tithes of all his Manours where∣soever throughout England. Then, is Witham encreased with Ban a little River, which out of the midst of Lindsey runneth downe,* 1.176 first by Horne Castle, which belonged in [ C] times past to * 1.177 Adeliza of Condie, and was laid even with the ground in the Raigne of Stephen, afterwards became a capitall seat of the Barony of Gerard de Rodes, and pertaineth now, as I have heard, to the Bishop of Carlile: From thence, by Scrivel∣by, a Manour of the Dimockes who hold it hereditarily devolved upon them from the Marmions,* 1.178 by Sir J. Ludlow, and that by service, (to use now the Lawyers words) Of Grand Serjeanty,* 1.179 viz. That whensoever any King of England is to bee crowned, then the Lord of this Manour, for the time being, or some one in his name (if himselfe bee unable) shall come well armed for the warre,* 1.180 mounted upon a good horse of service, in presence of the Soveraigne Lord the King upon his Coronation day; and cause Proclamation to bee made, that if any man will avouch that the said Soveraigne Lord the King, hath not right to his [ D] Kingdome and Crowne, he will be prest and ready to defend the right of the King, of his King∣dome, of his Crowne and dignity, with his body, against him, and all others whatsoever. Some∣what lower,* 1.181 The Ban at Tatteshall a little Towne standing in a Marish Country, but ve∣ry commodiously, well knowne by reason of the Castle, built for the most part of bricke, and the Barons thereof, runneth into Witham. They write that Eudo and Pinso two Noblemen of Normandy, loving one another entirely as sworne brethren, by the liberall gift of King William the Conquerour received many Lordships and faire lands in this tract, which they parted so, as that Tatteshall fell to Eudo, which he held by Barony, from whose posterity it came by Dryby and the Bernacks unto Sir Raulph Cromwell,* 1.182 whose sonne bearing the same name, and being under King Henry [ E] the Sixth Lord Treasurer of England, departed out of this world without issue: but unto Pinso fell Eresby,* 1.183 which is not farre off: From whose progeny, the inheritance descended by the Becks unto the Willoughbeies: unto whom there came also an en∣crease both of honour, and also of faire Livelods by their wives, not onely from the Uffords Earles of Suffolke;* 1.184 but also from the Lords of Welles, who brought with them very faire possessions and lands of the family de Engain Lords of ancient Nobi∣lity, and from the first comming in of the Normans of great power in these parts. A∣mong these Willoughbeis one excelled all the rest in the Raigne of Henry the Fifth, na∣med Sir Robert Willoughby, who for his martiall prowesse was created Earle of Van∣dosme in France, and from these by the mothers side descended Peregrine Berty, Baron [ F] Willoughby of Eresby, a man for his generous minde and military valour renowned both in France, and the Low-countries. Witham now approching neere unto the Sea, enter∣taineth out of the North another small namelesse River; at the spring head where∣of standeth Bollingbroke Castle, situate upon a low ground, and built of a soft and crumbling stone by William de Romara Earle of Lincolne, taken from Alice Lacey by

Page 542

King Edward the Second, because she married against his will; and ennobled in that [ A] it was the Birth-place of King Henry the Fourth, who thereof was named Henry of Bollingbroke.* 1.185 At which time it beganne to be reckoned among those Honorable Ma∣nours, which are termed Honours. And Witham, after it hath received this Riveret, having passed through Boston, as I have said, dischargeth it selfe at length into the German Sea.

From the mouth of Witham the shore shutteth forth with a mighty swelling bent into the German Sea, as farre as to Humber a great Arme of the Sea, being every where slashed and indented with many small Washes and places which the salt wa∣ter breaketh into: and hath but few Townes upon it, because there be few Havens there: and the shelves or barres of sand lie every where anenst the land. Yet of these [ B] few Townes which take up this Coast,* 1.186 some be memorable: and Wainefleet especially, if it were but for this cause onely, that it bred William Wainfleet Bishop of Winchester, a worthy Prelat, founder of Mawdlen College in Oxford, a man that singularly well deserved of learning.* 1.187 Then Alford, which for the Mercate is beholden to Lion Lord Welles, who obtained for it this priviledge from King Henry the Sixth. This Family of Welles, was very ancient and honourable: and the last of that name had to wife a daughter of King Edward the Fourth, and being by King Henry the Seventh crea∣ted Vicount Welles, died having no issue. But the inheritance, by the Females came to the Willoughbeys,* 1.188 Dimockes, De la Launds, Hoes, and others. More inward are Driby and Ormesby neighbour Townes, which gave sirnames to two great families in their [ C] times; from the Dribyes descended the elder Lords Cromwell, now determined, and from Ormesbyes the house of Skipwith, still continuing. After this, ye have Louth a little Mercate Towne well frequented, which had the name of Lud a small River, that run∣neth under Cokerington the capitall place in times past of the Barony of Scoteney. And then Grimsby,* 1.189 which our Sabins or conceited persons dreaming what they list, and following their owne fansies, will have to be so called of one Grime a Merchant, who for that hee had brought up a little foundling of the Danes royall blood named Haveloke, when it had beene cast forth to perish, or to take his lucke or fortune, is much talked of, together with Haveloke that lucky foster-childe of his: who having beene first a skullen in the Kings kitchin, and afterwards promoted to the marriage [ D] of the Kings daughter for his heroicall valour in feates of Armes, and I wot not what, worthy exploits. A narration right well beseeming and meetest for them that take pleasure to passe out the long nights with telling of old wives tales. But the honour and ornament of this place was the right reverend Doctour Whitgift late Archbishop of Canterbury, a peerelesse Prelate for piety and learning in our daies.

Scarce six miles from hence, more within the country there sheweth it selfe an an∣cient Castle,* 1.190 which at this day is called Castor, in the old English Saxons Tongue 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, and Thong-caster, in British Caer Egarry: in both languages it is aptly named so of the thing,* 1.191 to wit, of an hide cut into peeces, like as Byrsa, that Castle or Citadell of the Carthaginians so well knowne. For, our Annales record, that Hengist the [ E] Saxon, after he had vanquished the Picts and Scots, and received very large possessions in other places, obtained also in this tract of Vortigern, so much ground as hee could compasse round about with an Oxe hide cut out into very small laners, that we call Thongs, wherein he founded and built this Castle. Whence it is that one, who hath written in verse a Breviary of the British History, turned Virgils verses in this maner.

Accepítque solum, facti de nomine * 1.192 Thongum, Taurino quantum poter at circundare tergo. And ground he tooke, which Thong he call'd when he did first begin, As much as he, a Bull hide cut could well enclose within. [ F]

From Grimsby, the Shore draweth in with a great reach to make way for to admit Humber,* 1.193 by Thornton a religious house in times past instituted for the Worship of God, by William the Grosse Earle of Aumarle: also by Barton, where there is a very

Page 543

[ A] notable Ferry or passage over into York-shire.* 1.194 Hard by, Ankam a little muddy River, and therefore full of Eeles, emptieth it selfe into Humber: neere unto the spring-head whereof is Merket-Rasin, so called of a Mercate there well resorted unto. Somewhat higher stands Angotby, now corruptly called Osgodby belonging in times past to the family of Semarc, from whom it descended hereditarily to the Airmins: also Kelsay, a Lordship in old time of the Hansards, men of great name in this shire, from whom in right of the wives it came to the family of the Ascoghs, Knights. But after this, An∣kam hath a bridge over it, at Glanford, a small Mercate Towne, which the common people, of the said bridge, so commonly call Brigg, that the true name is almost quite forgotten.* 1.195 Next unto it, within a Parke I saw Kettleby the seat of the worshipfull anci∣ent [ B] family of the Tirwhits, Knights, descended from Grovil Oxenbridge, and Eching∣ham. But in times past it was the habitation, as a man may gather by the name, of one Ketell (which was in the time of the Saxons and Danes an usuall name).* 1.196 For Bye in the English-Saxon language signifieth A dwelling place, and Byan, To dwell: whence it is that so many places both elsewhere in England, and heere especially in this Shire doe end in Bie.

All this Tract-over at certaine seasons, good God, what store of fowles (to say no∣thing of fishes) is heere to be found! I meane not those vulgar birds which in other places are highly esteemed and beare a great price,* 1.197 as Teales, Quailes, Woodcockes, Phesants, Partridges, &c. but such as we have no Latine names for, the very delicate [ C] dainties, indeed, of service, meates for the Demigods, and greatly sought for by these that love the tooth so well,* 1.198 I meane, Puitts, Godwitts, Knotts, that is to say Canu∣tus or Knouts birds, (for, out of Denmarke they are thought to fly thither), Dotterels, so named of their dotish foolishnesse, which being a kinde of birds as it were of an apish kinde, ready to imitate what they see done, are caught by candle light accor∣ding to fowlers gesture; if he put forth an arme, they also stretch out a wing: sets he forward his legge, or holdeth up his head, they likewise doe theirs: in briefe, what ever the fowler doth, the same also doth this foolish bird untill it bee hidden within the net. But these things I leave to their observation, who either take plea∣sure earnestly to hunt after Natures workes, or being borne to pamper the belly de∣light [ D] to send their estates downe the throat.

More Westward, the River Trent also after he hath ended his long course, is recei∣ved into the Humber, after it hath with his sandy banke bounded this shire from Fosse∣dike hither;* 1.199 having runne downe first not farre from Stow, where Godive the wife of Earle Leofricke built a Monastery; which for the low site that it hath under the hills, Henry of Huntingdon saith to have beene founded Vnder the Promontory of Lincolne: Then,* 1.200 neere unto Knath, now the habitation of Baron Willoughy of Parrham, in times past of the family of the Barons Darcy, who had very much encrease both in honor and also of possessions by the daughter and heire of the Meinills. This Family of the Darcyes proceeded from another more ancient, to wit, from one whose name was [ E] Norman de Adrecy or Darcy de Nocton,* 1.201 who flourished in high reputation under King Henry the Third; and whose successours endowed with lands the little Nunnery at Alvingham in this County. But this dignity is as it were extinct, for that the last Norman in the right line which is more ancient,* 1.202 left behinde him onely two sisters: of which the one was married to Roger Pedwardine, the other to Peter of Limbergh.

Then runneth the Trent downe to Gainesborrow,* 1.203 a towne ennobled by reason of the Danes ships that lay there at rode, and also for the death of Suene Tiugs-Kege, a Danish Tyrant, who after he had robbed and spoiled the country, as Matthew of Westminster writeth, being heere stabbed to death by an unknowne man, suffered due punishment at length for his wickednesse and villany. Many a yeere after this, it became the [ F] possession of Sir William de Valence Earle of Pembroch, who obtained for it of king Ed∣ward the First the liberty to keepe a Faire: From which Earle by the Scottish Earles of Athol,* 1.204 and the Piercies, descended the Barons of Bourough who heere dwelt: con∣cerning whom I have written already in Surry. In this part of the Shire stood long since the City Sidnacester,* 1.205 which affoorded a See to the Bishops of this Tract, who

Page 544

were called the Bishops of Lindifars: But this City is now so farre out of all sight [ A] and knowledge, that together with the name the very ruines also seeme to have pe∣rished, for by all my curious enquiry, I could learne nothing of it.

Neither must I overpasse, that in this Quarter, at Melwood there flourished the fa∣mily of Saint Paul, corruptly called Sampoll, Knights; which I alwaies thought to have beene of that ancient Castilion race of the Earles of Saint Paul in France. But, the Coat-Armour of Luxemburgh, which they beare, implieth that they are come out of France since that the said Castilion stocke of Saint Paul,* 1.206 was by marriage im∣planted into that of Luxemburgh, which happened two hundred yeeres since or thereabout.

Above this place the Rivers of Trent, Idell and Dane doe so disport themselves with [ B] the division of their streames, and Marishes caused by them and other Springs, as they enclose within them the River-Island of Axelholme,* 1.207 in the Saxon Tongue 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, which is a parcell of Lincolne-shire. It carryeth in length from South to North ten miles, and in breadth not past halfe so much. The flat and lower part of it toward the Rivers is marish ground,* 1.208 and bringeth forth an odoriferous kinde of shrub which they tearme Gall. It yeeldeth also Pets in the Mores, and dead rootes of fir∣wood which in burning give a ranke sweet savour. There also have beene found great and long firre-trees while they digged for Pet, both within the Isle, and also without,* 1.209 at Laghton upon Trent banke, the old habitation of the family of D'alanson, now contractly called Dalison. The middle parts of this Isle, where it riseth gently [ C] with some ascent is fruitefull and fertile, and yeeldeth flax in great aboundance: also the Alabaster stone,* 1.210 and yet the same being not very solide but brittle, is more meet for pargetting and plaister-worke, than for other uses. The chiefe Towne called in old time Axel, is now named Axey, whence, by putting to the Saxon word Holme, which they used for a River-Island, the name no doubt was compoun∣ded. But scarce deserveth it to bee called a Towne, it is so scatteringly inhabited: and yet it is able to shew the plot of ground where a Castle stood, that was rased in the Barons warre, and which belonged to the Mowbraies, who at that time possessed a great part of the Isle.

In the yeere 1173. as writeth an old Chronographer, Roger de Mowbray forsaking [ D] his Allegeance to the Elder * 1.211 King, repaired the Castle at Kinard Ferry in the Isle of Ax∣holme, which had beene of old time destroyed. Against whom a number of Lincoln-shire men making head, when they had passed over the water in barges, laid siege to the Castle, for∣ced the Constable thereof and all the souldiers to yeeld, and overthrew the said Castle. Some∣what higher is Botterwic, the Lord whereof Sir Edmund Sheffeld, King Edward the Sixth created the first Baron Sheffeld of Botherwic: who for his country spent his life against the Rebels in Norfolke, having begotten of Anne Vere the Earle of Oxfords daughter, a sonne named John, the second Baron, and father to Edmund now Lord Sheffeld, a right honourable Knight of the Garter, President of the Councell esta∣blished in the North. But more into the North I saw Burton Stather standing upon [ E] the other side of Trent, whereof I have hetherto read nothing memorable.

* 1.212This Shire glorieth in the Earles which have borne Title thereof. After Egga who flourished in the yeere 710. and Morcar both Saxons, and who were Earles by office, onely, William de Romara a Norman, was the first Earle after the Conquest, in whose roome being dead (for neither his sonne, whereas he died before his father, nor his grand-child enjoied this title) King Stephen placed Gilbert de Gaunt. After whose de∣cease Simon de Saint Lyz,* 1.213 the younger, the sonne of Earle Simon, (you reade the very words of Robert Montensis, who lived about that time) Wanting lands, by the gracious gift of King Henry the Second tooke his onely daughter to wife, with her his honour also. After this Lewis of France, who was by the seditious Barons brought into England [ F] girt a second Gilbert out of the Family de Gaunt, with the sword of the Earldome of Lincolne: but when the said Lewis was soone after expelled the land, no man acknow∣ledged him for Earle, and himselfe of his owne accord relinquished that title. Then Raulph the sixth Earle of Chester obtained this honour of King Henry the Third, who

Page 545

[ A] a little before his death gave unto Hawise or Avis his sister (the wife of Robert De Quincy) by Charter, the Earledome of Lincolne, so farre forth as appertained unto him, that shee might bee Countesse thereof: For in this tenour runne the very words of the Charter. She likewise bestowed it upon John de Lacy Constable of Chester, and the heires whom hee should beget of the body of Margaret her daughter. This John had issue Edmund, who dying before his mother left this honour for Henry his sonne to enjoy, who was the last Earle of that line: For when his sonnes were taken away by untimely death, and he had but one little daughter onely remaining alive named Alice, hee affianced her, being but nine yeeres old, to Thomas the sonne of Edmund Earle of Lancaster,* 1.214 with this condition, That if he should fortune to dye without heires of [ B] her body, or if they happened to dye without heires of their bodies, his Castles, Lordships, &c. should in Remainder come to the heires of Edmund Earle of Lancaster for ever. But the said Alice had no childe at all by her husband Thomas: But when Thomas her husband was beheaded, shee that by her light behaviour had not a little steined her good name, tooke Sir Eubul le Strange, with whom she had lived before time too familiar∣ly, for her husband,* 1.215 without the assent and privity of her Soveraigne; who being here∣at highly offended, seised her possessions into his owne hands. Yet both Sir Eubul Strange, and Sir Hugh Frene her third husband, are in some Records named Earles of Lincolne. After Alice, now very aged, was departed this life without issue, Henry Earle of Lancaster Nephew to Edmund aforesaid by his second sonne, entred upon [ C] her large and faire patrimony by vertue of that conveiance (which I spake of be∣fore) and from that time it accrued to the House of Lancaster.* 1.216 Howbeit the Kings of England at their pleasure have bestowed the name and honour of Earles of Lin∣colne, as,* 1.217 King Edward the Fourth gave it to Sir John De la Pole: and King Henry the Eighth, to Henry Brandon, both the Sonnes of the Dukes of Suffolke, who both ended this life without Issue; the first slaine in the battaile at Stoke, and the other taken away by the sweating sicknesse.* 1.218 Afterward Queene Elizabeth promoted Ed∣ward Baron Clinton Lord high Admirall of England, to the said honour, which his sonne Henry enjoyeth at this day.

There are in this Shire Parishes much about 630.

Page [unnumbered]

[illustration]

Page [unnumbered]

[illustration]
NOTINGAMIAE Comitatus olim pars CORITANORVM

Page [unnumbered]

Page 547

[ A]

NOTTINGHAM-SHIRE.

VPon the West side of Lincolne-shire confineth the County of NOTTINGHAM, in the English Saxon tongue 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, and in English Nottingham-shire, being farre lesse in quantity; limited Northward with York-shire, Westward with Darby-shire, and in some parts with York-shire, and on the South side with Leicester-shire. The South and East part there∣of [ B] are made more fruitfull by the noble and famous River Trent, with other Riverets resorting unto it. The West part is taken up with the Forest of Shirewood, which stretcheth out a great way. This part because it is sandy, the Inhabitants tearme The Sand, the other, for that it is Clayish, they call the Clay: and so have divided their Country into these two parts.

The River Trent,* 1.219 in the old English Saxon tongue 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉 (which some Anti∣quaries of small note and account have called Triginta in Latine, for the affinity of the French word Trent that signifieth that number Triginta, that is, thirty) having gone a long journey, so soone as hee is entred into this Shire, and hath (recepto Souro flumine ex agro Leicestrensi, taking in the River Soure from the field of Leicester) runne [ C] by Steanford, where I have learned there be many tokens remaining of old antiquity, and peeces of Roman money oftentimes found; and then by Clifton, which hath gi∣ven both habitation and sirname also to the ancient family of the Cliftons, much en∣riched by one of the heires of Cressy,* 1.220 taketh in from the West the little River Lin, which rising neere unto Newsted, that is, New place, where sometime King Henry the Second founded a small Abbay, and which is now the dwelling house of the anci∣ent Family of the Burons,* 1.221 descended from Ralph de Buron, who at the first comming in of the Normans flourished in great state,* 1.222 both in this Countrey and also in Lanca∣shire; runneth hard by Wallaton rich in veines of cole,* 1.223 where Sir Francis Willoughby a Knight nobly descended from the Greis Marquesse Dorset, in our daies built out of [ D] the ground with great charges (upon a vaine ostentation of his wealth) a stately house with artificiall workemanship, standing bleakely, but offering a very goodly prospect to the beholders farre and neere.

Then runneth it by Linton or Lenton,* 1.224 much frequented and famous in old time for the Abbay there of the Holy Trinity, founded by William Peverell, the base sonne of King William the Conquerour; but now all the fame is onely for a Faire there kept. Where, on the other banke at the very meeting well neere of Lin and Trent, the principall Towne that hath given name unto the Shire is seated upon the side of an hill now called Nottingham,* 1.225 (by softning the old name a little) for 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉; for, so the English Saxons named it of certaine caves and passages under the ground, [ E] which in old time they hewed and wrought hollow under those huge and steepe cliffes, which are on the South side hanging over the little River Lin, for places of receit and refuge, yea and for habitations. And thereupon Asserius interpreteth this Saxon word 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉 in Latine Speluncarum domum, that is, An house of Dennes or Caves, and in the British Tui ogo bauc, which signifieth the very selfe same. The Towne for the naturall site thereof is right pleasant: as where, on the one hand lye faire and large Medowes by the Rivers side, on the other, rise hils with a gentle and easie ascent: and is plentifully provided of all things beside, necessary for mans life. On the one side Shirewood yeeldeth store of wood to maintaine fire, al∣though many use for that purpose stinking pit cole digged forth of the ground: [ F] on the other, Trent serveth it aboundantly with fish. And hence hath beene taken up this od barbarous Verse,

Limpida sylva focum, * 1.226 Triginta dat mihi piscem. Shire-wood yeelds me fuell for fire, As Trent yeelds fish, what I require.

Page 548

At a word, for largenesse, for building, for three faire Churches, a passing spacious [ A] and beautifull Mercat place, and a most strong Castle, it maketh a goodly shew. The said Castle is mounted upon an huge and steepe worke on the West side of the City, in which place it is thought that Castle stood in times past upon whose strength the Danes presuming held out against the Siege of Aethered and Aelfrid so long, untill they frustrate of their purpose brake up their Siege, trussed up bagge and baggage and dislodged. For when the Danes had taken this Castle, Burthred King of the Mercians (as mine Authour Asserius writeth) and the Mercians, addresse their messen∣gers to Aethered King of the West Saxons, and to Aelfred his brother, humbly beseeching them to come and aide them, that so they might give battaile to the fore-named Army, which request they also easily obtained. For, those two brethren slacking no whit their promise, ha∣ving [ B] levied from all parts a mighty Army, assembled their forces, entred Mercia, and seek∣ing with one accord jointly to encounter the enemy, come as farre as to Snottenga-ham. And when the Painims keeping themselves within the defense of the Castle refused to give battaile, and the Christians with all their force could not batter the Wall, after peace concluded be∣tweene the Paganes and Mercians, those two brethren with their bands returned home. But after this, King Edward the elder, built the Village Bridgeford just over against it, and compassed the Towne about with a wall, which now is fallen downe; and yet the remaines thereof I have seene on the South side. And within very few yeeres after, in King Edward the Confessours time, as wee reade in Domesday booke, there were numbered in it one hundred and seventy three Burgesses, and from the two [ C] Minters, there were paid forty shillings to the King. Also the water of Trent, the Fosse dike, and the way toward Yorke were warded and kept, that if any man hindered the passage of vessels, he was to make amends with the payment of foure pounds.

As for the Castle which now wee see, it may bee well of great name in regard both of the Founder, and the worthinesse also of the worke: for William of Nor∣mandy built it to bridle the English; and so strong it was, as William of Newborough writeth, as well by naturall situation as hand labour, that it is held impregnable (if it may have sufficient men to defend it) unlesse it bee by famine. Afterward also King Edward the Fourth bestowed great cost in the repairing of it, and beautified it with faire buildings: whereto King Richard also the Third set to his helping hand. Neither [ D] for all the changes and alterations of times, hath it undergone the common conditi∣on or destiny incident to such great Castles, being never forced and wonne by as∣sault. Once was it in vaine besieged by Henry of Anjou, at which time the souldiers lying in Garison set fire upon the buildings joyning unto it.* 1.227 Once also it was sud∣denly surprised by Earle Robert de Ferrarijs in the Barons warre, who spoiled the In∣habitants of all their goods. The Castellanes report many stories of David King of the Scots prisoner in it, and of Roger Mortimer Earle of March, taken heere in a hollow secret passage under the ground, who because he prised his faith and loyalty to his country lighter than Scotish gold, and with a vaste minde designed other mis∣chiefes, was afterwards hanged. Certes, in the first base Court of the Castle wee [ E] went downe by many steps or staires with candle light into a Vault under the ground and certaine close roomes wrought out of the very rocke, in the walles whereof are engraven the stories of Christs Passion and other things, by the hand (as they say) of David the Second, king of Scots, who was there imprisoned. But in the upper part of the Castle which riseth up aloft upon a rocke, we came also by many staires into a∣nother Cave likewise under the ground,* 1.228 which they call Mortimers Hole, for that in it the foresaid Roger Mortimer lay hidden, when as being guilty to himselfe of wicked∣nesse he stood in feare of his life.

As for the position of Nottingham, it seeth the North Pole elevated fifty three Degrees, and hath the Meridian two and twenty Degrees and foureteene minutes [ F] distant from the utmost point of the West, whence Geographers beginne to mea∣sure the Longitude.

* 1.229From hence the Trent runneth with a milde streame and passeth forward by Holme, called of the Lords thereof Holme * 1.230 Pierpount, whose Family is both ancient and

Page 549

[ A] noble, and out of which Robert Pierpount was summoned by King Edward the Third unto the high Court of Parliament, among the Barons of the Kingdome; unto Shelford where Ralph Hanselin founded a Priory,* 1.231 and the Lords Bardolph had a man∣sion, but now the seat of the worshipfull stocke of the Stanhopes, knights; whose state in this Tract hath growne great and their name renowned since they matched with an heire of Mallovell. From whence he runneth downe with a rolling streame to Stoke,* 1.232 a little Village, but well knowne for no small overthrow and slaughter that there happened: when Sir John de la pole Earle of Lincolne, who being by King Ri∣chard the Third declared heire apparent to the Crowne, seeing by the comming of king Henry the Seventh himselfe debarred of the hope of the Kingdome, heere in [ B] behalfe of a counterfeit Prince rebelliously opposed himselfe against a lawfull king, and so resolutely with his friends and followers lost his life. Not farre from hence is Thurgarton where Sir Ralph D'eincourt founded a Priory, and somewhat higher Southwell sheweth it selfe aloft,* 1.233 with a Collegiat Church of Prebendaries consecra∣ted to the blessed Virgin Mary, a place not very faire in outward shew, I must needs say, but strong, ancient, and of great fame. Which, as they write, Paulinus the First Archbishop of Yorke founded, after he had baptised the Inhabitants of this Shire in the River Trent, and so regenerated them to Christ. Since which time, the Arch∣bishops of Yorke have had here a very faire and stately Palace and three Parkes sto∣red with Deere adjoyning thereto.* 1.234 That this is the City which Bede calleth Tio-vul-Finga-cester, [ C] I doe the more stedfastly beleeve, because, those things which he hath reported of Paulinus baptizing in the Trent neere unto Tio-vul-Finga-cester, the pri∣vate History of this Church constantly avoucheth to have beene done in this very place. From thence out of the East, Snite a little Brooke runneth into Trent, which being but small and shallow watereth Langer, a place of name in regard of the Tibe∣tots or Tiptofts Lords thereof,* 1.235 who afterwards became Earles of Worcester: also Wi∣verton, which from Heriz a worshipfull man long since in these parts, came by the Brets and Caltostes unto the Chaworthes,* 1.236 who fetch their name out of the * 1.237 Cadurci in France, and derive their pedegree from the Lord of Walchervill.

Now doth Trent divide it selfe, neere Averham or Aram an ancient habitation of [ D] the Suttons Gentlemen of respective worth, and runneth hard under a good great Towne called Newark, as one would say, The new worke, of the new Castle, which Castle so fresh and of so beautifull building, as Henry of Huntingdon termeth it, Alexan∣der that bountifull minded Bishop of Lincolne built: which Prelate, that I may use the words of an ancient Historian, carrying a most brave and gallant minde, builded both this Castle and another also with most profuse and lavish expense. And because such manner of sumptuous buildings little became the gravity and dignity of a Bishop, he to take away the en∣vie and hard conceit of the world for such building, and to expiate, as it were, the offence that grew thereby, founded as many Monasteries and filled them with religious Brethren. Ne∣verthelesse, this vaine prodigality and lavish spending that was in a military Bishop, [ E] was pursued afterwards with condigne punishment. For, King Stephen, who labou∣red nothing more than to establish his tottering estate in his Kingdome by seizing into his hands all the strongest holds thereof, brought this Prelate, what with hard imprisoning, and, in a sort, with famishing him, to that passe, that will'd hee nill'd he,* 1.238 at length hee yeelded up unto him both this Castle, and that other at Sleford in Lincolne-shire. Neither is there any other memorable matter heere to be related, but that King John finished in this place the most wearisome course of his troublesome life; and King Edward the Sixth incorporated it of one Alderman, and twelve As∣sistants. From hence the River gathering himselfe againe into one Chanell, run∣neth directly Northward, beset on both sides with Villages; neither affoordeth it [ F] any matter worth remembrance before it come to Littleborrough,* 1.239 a little Towne in deed and truely answering to the name, where, as there is at this day a Ferry much used, so there was in times past that Station, whereof Antonine the Emperour once or twice made mention,* 1.240 and which according to sundry Copies is called AGELO∣CUM or SEGELOCUM.

Page 550

This Towne have I heretofore sought for in vaine, about the Country adjoyning: [ A] but now I am verily perswaded and assured that I have found it out, both for that it standeth upon the old Port High-way, and also because the field lying to it sheweth expresse tokens of Walles; and besides affoordeth unto Ploughmen every day ma∣ny peeces of the Roman Emperours Coine: which because Swine many times rooting into the ground turne up with their snouts, the country people call Swines∣penis. Who also according to their simple capacity are of opinion, that their fore∣fathers in times past fensed and mounded that field with a stone. Wall against the water of Trent that useth in Winter time to overflow and make great flouds.

In the West part of this Shire, which they tearme The Sand, and where Erwash a little Riveret hieth apace into Trent, Strelley, in old time Strellegh sheweth it selfe, [ B] a place that gave both sirname and habitation to the Family of the Strelleis, com∣monly called Sturleyes, Knights; one of the most ancient Houses in all this Coun∣try. More inward,* 1.241 the Forest Shirewood (which some expound by these Latine names Limpida Sylva, that is, A Shire or Cleere wood; others Praclara Sylva, in the same sence and signification) in ancient times over-shadowed all the Country over with greene leaved branches, and the boughs and armes of trees twisted one within ano∣ther, so implicated the Woods together, that a man could scarcely goe alone in the beaten pathes: But now the trees grow not so thicke, yet hath it an infinite number of fallow Deere, yea and Stagges with their stately branching heads feeding within it.* 1.242 Some Townes also: among which Mansfield carryeth away the name, as main∣taining [ C] a great Mercat passing well served, and as well frequented. The name of which Towne, they that delineat the Pedegree of the Graves of the great family of Mansfield in Germany, use as an argument to proove the same, and set downe that the first Earle of Mansfield was one of King Arthurs Knights of the Round Table, borne and bred at this Mansfield. Indeed our Kings used in old time to retyre them∣selves hether for the love of hunting: and, that you may reade the very words out of an ancient Inquisition, W. Fauconberge, tenebat Manerium de Cukeney in hoc Comitatu in Sergientia, per Servitium ferrandi Palsredum Regis quando Rex veniret ad Mansfield, that is, W. Fauconberge held the Manour of Cukeney in this County in Sergiency, by ser∣vice to shooe the Kings Palfrey when the King came to Mansfield. And the hereditary Fo∣resters [ D] or Keepers of this Forest of Shirewood were men in their times of high esti∣mation, viz. Sir Gerarde de Normanvile in the time of the Conquest, the Cauzes and Birkins,* 1.243 by whose heire it came to the Everinghams. Of which Family Sir Adam Everingham was summoned to Parliaments in the Raignes of King Edward the Se∣cond, and King Edward the Third: At which time they were seated at Laxton, an∣ciently called Lexinton,* 1.244 where also flourished a great Family so sirnamed, whose heires were marryed into the Houses of Sutton of Averham and Markham.

Out of this Wood there spring many Riverets that runne into the Trent: but Idle is thought to bee the chiefe:* 1.245 upon which neere unto Idleton in the yeere 616. that felicity and prosperous successe which for a long time had accompanied Ethered that [ E] most puissant King of Northumberland, was overtaken and forsooke him quite. For, whereas before time he had alwaies fought his battailes most fortunately, heere (fortune turning her wheele) he was by Redwald King of the East Angles vanquished and slaine, who in his roome made Edwin then banished from the Kingdome, due unto him from his Ancesters, Soveraigne Ruler over the Northumbers. This little River Idle runneth downe not farre from Markham,* 1.246 a Village verily but small to speake of, yet gave it name to the Family of the Markhams, which for worth and an∣tiquity hath beene very notable, being descended from one of the heires of Cressy, and formerly from an heire of Lexinton, as I lately shewed. The greatest ornament of this Family was Sir John Markham, who sitting Lord chiefe Justice of England, [ F] guided the helme of Justice with so even an hand and so great equity (a thing that I would have you to reade in the English Histories) that his honour and glory shall never perish. Six miles from it Westward, is Workensop, a Towne well knowne for the Liquorice that there groweth and prospereth passing well:* 1.247 famous also for the

Page 551

[ A] Earle of Shrewsburies House which within our remembrance George Talbot Earle of Shrewsbury built with that magnificence, as beseemeth so great an Earle, and yet such as was not to be envied. This Workensop from the Lovetofts first Lords thereof, under the Normans Raigne, descended by the Furnivalles and Nevil, unto the L. Talbots with a very goodly inheritance.* 1.248 Of which Lovetofts, G. Lovetoft in the time of King Henry the First, founded here an Abbay, the ruines whereof I have seen toward the East side of the Towne, amidst most pleasant and plentifull pastures: and the West part of the Church standeth still passing faire to be seene with two towre steeples. A little higher upon the same River I saw Blithe a famous Mercate Towne,* 1.249 which Bulley or Busly, a Noble man of the Normans blood, fortified with a Castle: but now the [ B] very rubbish thereof is hardly to bee seene, time so consumeth all things. But the Abbay there, was founded by Roger Busly and Foulke De Lisieurs: and this is the far∣thest Towne almost in Nottingham-shire, Northward, unlesse it bee Scroby a little Towne of the Archbishops of Yorke, situate in the very confines and frontiers of York-shire.

William sirnamed the Conquerour appointed over this Shire William Peverell his base sonne,* 1.250 not with the Title of Earle, but of Lord of Nottingham: who had a sonne that dyed before his father, and hee likewise had a sonne of the same name, whom king Henry the Second disinherited, for that he went about to poison Ranulph Earle of Chester. Much about this time Robert de Ferrarijs, who rifled and ransacked [ C] Nottingham, in a Donation which he made unto the Church of Tuttesbury, stiled him∣selfe thus, Robertus Comes junior de Nottingham, that is, Robert the younger Earle of Not∣tingham. But afterwards King Richard the First gave and confirmed unto his bro∣ther John the Earledome and Castle of Nottingham with all the Honour of Peverell. Many yeeres after, King Richard the Second honoured John Lord Mowbray with this Title of Earle of Nottingham; who dying a young man without issue, his brother Tho∣mas succeeded after him: He being by king Richard the Second created Earle Mare∣shall and Duke of Norfolke, and soone after banished, begat Thomas Earle Mareshall, whom king Henry the Fourth beheaded; and John Mowbray, who, as also his sonne and Nephew,* 1.251 were likewise Dukes of Norfolke and Earles of Nottingham. But [ D] when as their male issue failed, and that Richard the young sonne of King Edward the Fourth, being Duke of Yorke had borne this Title with others by his Wife the heire of the Mowbraies, but a small while, King Richard the Third honoured William Vicount Barkley descended from the Mowbraies with this Title of Earle of Notting∣ham: and whereas hee dyed without issue, king Henry the Eighth bestowed the same honour upon his illegitimate sonne H. Fitz Roy, when hee created him Duke of Richmond; but hee departed this life in the flower of his age, leaving no childe. Afterward this Title lay extinct, untill in the yeere of our Lord 1597. Queene Eli∣zabeth by solemne investiture adorned therewith Charles Lord Howard of Effingham, and High Admirall of England, descended from the Mowbraies, in regard of his [ E] service (as appeareth in the Charter of his Creation) right valiantly and faithfully performed against the Spanish Armado in the yeere 1588. as also at the winning of Caliz in Spaine, where he was Lord Generall of the forces by sea, like as the Earle of Essex, of those by land.

There are in this County Parish Churches 168.

Page [unnumbered]

Page 553

[ A]

DARBY-SHIRE.

DARBY-SHIRE, called in old English-Saxon 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, li∣eth close to Nottingham-shire Westward, confining with Lei∣cester-shire upon the Southside, like as with Stafford-shire on the West, and York-shire in the North, resembling, as it were, the forme of a Triangle, but not with equall sides. For, where∣as about the point of it lying Southward it is scarce sixe miles [ B] broad, it so enlargeth and spreadeth it selfe on both sides, that where it looketh into the North it carrieth much about thirty miles in breadth. The River Derwent, that runneth along the middest of it, divideth it after a sort in two parts, which River breaking out of the North limit thereof and taking his course Southward, sometimes with his blacke waters stained with the Soile and earth that it passeth by, rumbleth downe apace into the Trent: For, Trent overthwarteth the said narrow point, that I spake of, lying Southward. The East side and the South parts are well manured, not unfruitfull, and besides, well sto∣red with Parkes; The West part beyond Derwent which they call the Peake being all of it hilly, or a stony and craggy ground, is more barraine: howbeit rich in lead, [ C] iron, and coles, which it yeeldeth plentifully, and also feedeth Sheepe very com∣modiously.

In the South corner the first place worth the naming that offereth it selfe to sight,* 1.252 is Greisely Castle, more than broken downe, which together with a little Monastery was founded in times past in honour of Saint George, by the Greiseleies Lords thereof, who fetching their descent from William the sonne of Sir Niele of Grieseley, about the very Conquest of England by the Normans, have flourished unto these dayes in great worship, the which they have not a little augmented long since by marrying with the daughter and heire of the ancient family of Gasteneys. Upon the River Dove, which untill it entreth into Trent divideth this Country from Stafford-shire, we meet [ D] with nothing in this Shire but small country Villages, and Ashburne a Mercate towne, where the house of the Cokains flourished a long time; and Norbury, where the right ancient family of the Fitz-Herberts have long inhabited: out of which, Sir Anthony Fitz-Herbert hath deserved passing well of the knowledge and profession of our Commons law:* 1.253 Not farre from which is Shirley an ancient Lordship of the well renowned Family of the Shirleys, who derive their pedegree from one Fulcher: unto whom, beside the antiquity of their house, much honor and faire lands have ac∣crued by marriage with the heires of the Breoses, the Bassets of Brailesford, the Stan∣tons, Lovets, &c. And heere stand round about many places which have given name and Habitation to worshipfull Families: as Longford, Bradburne, Kniveton, from [ E] whence came those Knivetons of Mercaston and Bradley: of which house Saint Lo Kniveton is one,* 1.254 to whose judicious and studious diligence I am deeply endebted: also Keidelston, where the Cursons dwelt, as also at Crokhall. But whether Sir Robert Curson knighted by King Henry the Seventh,* 1.255 made a Baron of the Empire by Maxi∣milian the Emperour in the yeere 1500. for his singular valour, and thereupon by King Henry the Eigth made a Baron of England with a liberall pension assigned, was descended from these Cursons, I dare not affirme. Heereby is Radborn, where Sir John Chandos knight, Lord of the place, laid a goodly foundation of a great and stately house: from whom by a daughter it came by hereditary succession unto the Poles, who dwell heere at this day. But these particularities I leave for him who [ F] hath undertaken the full description of this Shire.

But upon Trent,* 1.256 so soon as ever he hath taken to him the river Dove, is Repandunum to bee seene, for so doe our History-writers call it, the Saxons named it 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, and we at this day Repton, which from a great and faire Towne is become a poore small Village. For, in old time very famous it was, by reason both of the buriall of

Page 554

Aethelbald that good King of the Mercians, who through the treachery of his owne [ A] people lost his life, and of the other Kings of Mercia: as also for the unfortunate calamity of Burthred the last King of the Mercians,* 1.257 who when hee had enjoyed his kingdome partly by way of entreaty and partly by meanes of bribery, full twenty yeeres, was heere deprived of his kingdome by the Danes, or rather freed and ex∣empted from the glittering misery of princely State, and so became an example to teach men in how ticklish and slippery a place they stand which are underpropped onely with money.* 1.258 Then not farre from Trent is Melborn a Castle of the Kings now decaying, wherein John Duke of Burbon taken prisoner in the battaile of Agin∣court was detained nineteene yeeres under the custody of Sir Nicholas Montgomery the younger. Scarce five miles hence Northward, the River Derwent hath his walke; [ B] who in the utmost limit, as I said before, of this Shire Northward deriving his head out of the Peak hils, being one while streitned betweene crags, and sometimes ano∣ther while watering and cherishing the fresh greene medowes, by mossie and morish grounds holdeth on his course for thirty miles or thereabout directly, as it were, into the South. Howbeit in so long a course hee passeth by nothing worth looking on,* 1.259 except Chattesworth, a very large, faire and stately house, which Sir Wil∣liam Candish,* 1.260 or Cavendish descended out of that ancient house of Gernon in Suffolke, beganne, and which his Wife Elizabeth, and after Countesse of Shrewesbury, hath of late with great charges fully finished.

But where Derwent turneth somewhat Eastward, when it is once past Little Che∣ster, [ C] that is, Little City, where old peeces of Roman money are often times gotten out of the ground, Darby sheweth it selfe, in the English-Saxon Tongue named 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, and by the Danes (as Athelward that ancient Writer witnesseth) Deoraby, the chiefe Towne of all this Shire: which name, being taken from the River Derwent and contracted from Derwentby, it hath bestowed upon the whole Coun∣ty. A proper Towne it is, none of the least, not without good trade and resort unto it. On the East side of it, the River Derwent making a very faire shew, runneth downe carrying a full and lofty streame under a beautifull stone Bridge, upon which our devout forefathers erected a faire Chappell, which now is neglected and goeth to decay: Through the South part thereof runneth a prety cleere Riveret which [ D] they call Mertenbrooke. Five Churches there be in it: Of which the greatest named All Hallowes, dedicated to the memory of All-Saints, hath a Towre Steeple that for height and singular fine Workemanship excelleth. In which Church, the Countesse of Shrewesbury, of whom erewhile I spake, trusting her selfe better than her heires, providently erected a Sepulture for her selfe, and as religiously founded an Hospitall hard by, for the maintenance of twelve poore folke, eight men and foure women.

Memorable in old time was this place, because it had beene a lurking hole and a Rendevous for the Danes, untill Ethelfleda that victorious Lady of the Mercians, by a suddaine forceable surprise, made a slaughter of the Danes and became Mistresse of [ E] it. In the time of King Edward the Confessour, as wee finde in Domesday booke, it had 143. Burgesses, whose number notwithstanding decreased so, that in William the Conquerours Raigne there remained onely an hundred: And these paid unto the King at the feast of Saint Martin 12.* 1.261 Trabes of Corne. But now all the name and credit that it hath, ariseth of the Assisses there kept for the whole shire, and by the best appy ale, that is brewed there: a drinke so called, of the Danish word Oela somewhat wrested, and not of Alica,* 1.262 as Ruellius deriveth it: the Britans termed it by an old word Kwrw, in steade whereof Curmi is read amisse in Dioscorides; where hee saith, that the Hiberi (perchance he would have said Hiberni, that is, The Irishmen) in lieu of wine use Cur∣mi, a kinde of drinke made of Barly. For, this is that Barly-wine of ours, which Julian [ F] the Emperour, that Apostata, calleth merrily in an Epigramme, 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉. This is the ancient and peculiar drinke of the Englishmen and Britans, yea and the same very wholsome, howsoever Henry of Aurenches the Norman, Arch-poet to King Henry the Third, did in his pleasant wit merrily jest upon it in these Verses,

Page 555

[ A] Nescio quod Stygiae monstrum conforme paludi, Cervisiam plerique vocant: nil spissius illa Dum bibitur, nil clarius est dum mingitur, unde Constat, quòd multas faeces in ventre relinquit. Of this strange drinke, so like to Stygian lake, (Most tearme it Ale) I wote not what to make: Folke drinke it thicke, and pisse it passing thin, Much dregges therefore must needs remaine within.

[ B] Howbeit,* 1.263 Turnebus that most learned Frenchman maketh no doubt, but that men using to drinke heereof, if they could avoid surfetting, would live longer than those that drinke wine: and that from hence it is, that many of us drinking Ale live an hun∣dred yeeres. And yet Asclepiades in Plutarch ascribeth this long life to the coldnesse of the aire, which keepeth in and preserveth the naturall heat in bodies, when he made report, that the Britans lived untill they were an hundred and twenty yeeres old.

But the wealth of this Towne consisteth much in buying of corne and selling it a∣gaine to the mountaines: for all the Inhabitants be as it were a kinde of hucksters, or badgers. Not farre from hence doth Derwent carry his streame, where by Elwaston Sir Raulph Montjoye had lands,* 1.264 in the time of Edward the First: from whence came [ C] Sir Walter Blunt, whom King Edward the Fourth advanced to the honour of Baron Montjoye with a pension: whose posterity have equalled the nobility of their birth with the ornaments of learning: and principally among them, Charles, late Earle of De∣vonshire, Baron Montjoy, Lord Lieutenant Generall of Ireland, and Knight of the Order of the Garter. Beneath this Elwaston, Derwent disburdeneth himselfe into the chanell of Trent, which within a while admitteth into it the River Erewash, that in this part ser∣veth as a limit to divide this country from Nottingham-shire. Neere unto this River standeth Riseley, a possession of the Willoughbeies: of which family was that Sir Hugh Willoughby, as I have heard say, who whiles hee endevoured to discover the Frozen Sea neere unto Wardhous in Scandia, was frozen to death together with his company, [ D] in the same ship. Hard by it also is Sandiacre, or as others will have it, Sainct Diacre, the seat of the Family of the Greies of Sandiacre:* 1.265 whose inheritance Sir Edward Hi∣lary in right of his wife was first possessed of; and whose sonne became adopted in∣to the name of the Greies: and a few yeeres after, the one of his daughters and heires wedded to Sir John Leake, and the other to John Welsh.

On the East side of this Shire there follow in order Northward these places,* 1.266 Code∣nor in old time Coutenoure Castle, which belonged to the Barons Grey, called there∣upon Lords Grey of Codenor;* 1.267 whose inheritance in the foregoing age came to the Zouches by the marriage that Sir John de la Zouch the second sonne of William Lord de la Zouch of Haringworth, contracted with Elizabeth the heire of Henry Grey the [ E] last Lord of Codenor. Then, Winfeld, a very great and goodly Manour, where Raulph Lord Cromwell in the Raigne of Henry the Sixth built a sumptuous and stately house, for those daies.* 1.268 After it, you see Alffreton, which men thinke to have beene built by King Alfred, and of him to have taken that name: which Towne had also Lords, en∣tituled therupon, de Alfreton: of whom the second named Robert, the sonne of Ra∣nulph, built in the most remote angle and nouke of this shire the little Abbay De Bel∣lo capite, commonly called Beau-chiefe; but a few yeeres after for default of heires males the Family of Chaworth and the Lathams in Lancashire possessed their inheri∣tance, by two daughters.* 1.269 These bare for their Armes, Two Cheveros, as they tearme them, Or, in a Shield Azur: which very same Coat the Musards, that is, The doubters [ F] and delaiers who were called Barons of Staveley in this County, changing the colours one∣ly gave, who during the Raigne of King Edward the First had an end in Sir Nicholas Musard:* 1.270 and his eldest sister was married to Ancher Freschevill, whose posterity flou∣risheth heere still at this day. Higher yet in the very East frontier of this County, up∣on a rough and a craggy Soile standeth Hardwic, which gave name to a Family in

Page 556

which possessed the same: out of which descended Lady Elizabeth Countesse of [ A] Shrewesbury, who beganne to build there two goodly houses joyning in manner one to the other, which by reason of their lofty situation shew themselves, a farre off to be seene, and yeeld a very goodly prospect. This now giveth the Title of Baron to Sir William Cavendish her second sonne,* 1.271 whom King James of late hath honoured with the honour of Baron Cavendish of Hardwic.

More inward in the Country, is seated Chester-field in Scardale, that is, in a Dale com∣passed in with cragges and rockes: For, such rockes the Englishmen were wont to tearme Scarres. Both the new name it selfe, and the ruines of the old Walles doe proove, that this Chester-field was of good antiquity: but the ancient name thereof is by continuance of time worne out and quite lost. King John made it a free Burrough [ B] when he gave it to William Briewer his especiall favourite. In Writers it is famous on∣ly by occasion of the warre betwixt King Henry the Third and his Barons, wherein Robert Ferrars the last Earle of Darby of that name, being taken prisoner and depri∣ved of his honour by authority of the Parliament, lived afterwards as a private man: and his posterity flourished with the Title onely of Barons. Hard to this Chester∣field Westward lyeth Walton,* 1.272 which from the Bretons came hereditarily by Loudham to the Foliambs men of great name in this Tract:* 1.273 and Eastward Sutton, where the Leaks held a long time a worshipfull port, in Knights degree.

A little from hence is Bolsover an ancient Castle, situate somewhat with the high∣est: which belonged to the Hastings Lords of Abergavenney, in right of exchange [ C] with King Henry the Third: who being altogether unwilling that the Earledome of Chester, unto whom this Castle had appertained, should bee divided and bestowed among distaves, assigned here and there other possessions unto the sisters of Iohn Scot the last Earle.

The West part beyond Derwent, which throughout riseth high and peaketh up with hils and mountaines, whence in old time it was called in the old English tongue Peac-lond,* 1.274 and is at this day, haply for that cause, named the Peake (for, that word a∣mong us signifieth to appeare aloft) is severed from Stafford-shire by the Dove a most swift and cleere River, of which I shall speake hereafter. This part although in some place it hath craggy, rough and bare scarres, and cragges; yet by reason that under [ D] the upper crust of the earth there is limestone which supplyeth a batling fruitfull slugh, or humour, there be in it greene grassie hils and vales, which bring forth full oates, and feed safely both droves of greater beasts, and also many flockes of sheepe: For,* 1.275 there is no more danger now from Wolves which in times past were hurtfull and noisome to this Country; and for the chasing away and taking of which some there were that held lands heere at Wormehill, who thereupon were sirnamed Wolve-hunt, as appeareth plainely in the Records of the Kingdome:* 1.276 But so plentifull it is of lead,* 1.277 that the Alchymists, who condemne the Planets as convict of some crime unto the metall mines, have upon a ridiculous errour written, that Saturne, whom they make the Lord and Dominatour of lead, is liberally affected to England, in [ E] granting lead; but displeased with France, to which he hath denied the same. And verily, I thinke that Pliny spake of this Country when hee said this, In Britaine in the very crust of the ground, without any deepe mining, is gotten so great store of lead, that there is a law expressely made of purpose, forbidding men to make more than to a certaine stint. For, in these mountaines, fertile lead stones are daily digged up in great aboun∣dance, which upon the hill tops lying open to the West winde, neere unto Creach and Workes-Worth (which heereupon tooke name of the lead-workes) when the Westerne winde beginnes to blow (which winde of all others they have by expe∣rience found to hold longest) they melt with mighty great fires of wood into lead, in troughes or trenches wich they digge of purpose for it to runne into, and so make [ F] it up into Sowes. Neither onely lead, but Stibium also called in the Apothecaries shops Antimonium,* 1.278 is heere found by it selfe in veines: which minerall the women of Greece used in old time to colour their eye-browes with, whereupon the Poet Ion, in Greeke tearmeth it 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉.* 1.279 Milstones likewise are heere hewed out, as also

Page 557

[ A] grinde-stones and whetstones,* 1.280 to give an edge unto iron tooles: and sometimes in these mines or quarries is found a certaine white Fluor (for such stones comming out of Mines, that be like unto precious stones, learned minerall men call Fluores) which for all the world resembleth Christall.

Besides Workes-worth, lately mentioned, we meet with never another place worth the remembrance, unlesse it be Haddon by the River Wie, the seat for many yeeres to∣gether of the Vernons,* 1.281 who as they were very ancient so they became no lesse renow∣ned in these parts, in so much as Sir George Vernon knight, who lived in our time, for his magnificent port that hee carried, the open house that hee kept, and his commen∣dable hospitality, gat the name among the multitude of a Pety King in the Peake. By [ B] his Daughters and heires a goodly and great Inheritance was transferred unto Sir John Mannours sonne of Thomas Earle of Rutland, and to Sir Thomas Stanley sonne of Edward Earle of Darby. There adjoyneth unto this, Bakewell upon the same Riveret, which among these hils maketh it selfe way into Derwent. This was by the Saxons called 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉: And Marianus writeth, that King Edward the El∣der erected there a Burrough. Now whether it borrowed this name or no of the hote waters, which the ancient Englishmen, as also the Germans in their language tearmed Bade and Baden, whence came Baden in Germany and Buda in Hungary, I know not. Certes, at the spring-head of Wie not farre from hence, there rise and walme up nine fountaines of hote waters,* 1.282 the place at this day is called Buxton well: which [ C] being found by experience holsome for the stomach, sinewes, and the whole body, George Earle of Shrewesbury lately beautified with buildings, and so they are be∣gunne againe to bee resorted unto, by concourse of the greatest Gentlemen and of the Nobility. At which time that most unfortunate Lady, Mary Queene of Scots bad farewell unto Buxton with this Distichon, by a little change of Caesars Verses con∣cerning Feltria, in this wise:

Buxtona a quae calidae celebrabere nomine lymphae, Fortè mihi posthac non adeunda, vale. Buxton, that of great name shalt be, for hote and holsome baine, [ D] Farewell, for I perhaps shall not thee ever see againe.

But that these hote waters were knowne in old time, The Port-way or High paved Street named Bath-gate, reaching for seven miles together from hence unto Burgh a little Village doth manifestly shew. Neere unto this Burgh there standeth upon the top of an hill an old Castle sometimes belonging to the Peverels, called The Castle in the Peake,* 1.283 and in Latin De Alto Pecco, which King Edward the Third together with a Manour and an Honour, gave unto his sonne John Duke of Lancaster, what time as hee surrendered the Earledome of Richmond into the Kings hands. Under which, there is a Cave or hole within the ground, called, saving your reverence, The De∣vils [ E] Arse,* 1.284 that gapeth with a wide mouth, and hath in it many turnings and rety∣ring roomes: wherein, forsooth, Gervase of Tilbury, whether for wane of knowing trueth, or upon a delight hee had in fabling, hath written, that a Shepheard saw a very wide and large Country with Riverets and Brookes running heere and there through it, and huge Pooles of dead and standing waters. Notwithstanding, by reason of these and such like fables, this Hole is reckoned for one of the wonders of England: neither are there wanting the like tales of another Cave, but especially of that which is called Elden Hole,* 1.285 wherein there is nothing to bee wondred at, but that it is of an huge widnesse, exceeding steepe, and of a mervailous depth. But whosoever have written that there should bee certaine tunnels and breathing holes, [ F] out of which windes doe issue, they are much deceived: Neither doe these Verses of Alexander Necham, which hee wrote as touching the Mervailes of England a∣gree to any of these two holes.

Est specus Aeolijs ventis obnoxia semper, Impetus è gemino maximus ore venit.

Page 558

Cogitur injectum velamen adire supernas Partes, descensum impedit aura potens. [ A]
A Cave, to strong Aeolian windes alwaies enthral'd there is, From two-fold tunnell maine great blasts arise and never misse, A cloth or garment cast therein, by force aloft is sent, A mighty breath, or powrfull puffe doth hinder all descent.

But all the memorable matters in this high and rough stony little Country, one hath comprised in these foure Verses.

Mira alto Pecco tria sunt, barathrum, specus, antrum; [ B] Commoda tot, plumbum, gramen, ovile pecus. Tot speciosa simul sunt, Castrum, Balnea, Chatsworth; Plura sed occurrunt, quae speciosa minùs.
There are in High Peake Wonders three, A deepe Hole, Cave and Den: Commodities as many bee, Lead, Grasse, and Sheepe in pen. And Beauties three there are withall [ C] A Castle, Bath, Chatsworth: With places more yet meet you shall That are of meaner worth.

* 1.286To these Wonders may be added a wonderfull Well in the Peake Forest not farre from Buxtons which ordinarily ebbeth and floweth foure times in the space of one houre or thereabout,* 1.287 keeping his just Tides: and I know not whether Tideswell a Mercate Towne heereby hath his name thereof.

The Peverels who I have said before were Lords of Nottingham are also reported to have beene Lords of Darby. Afterward King Richard the First, gave and confir∣med [ D] unto his brother John the Counties and Castles of Nottingham, Lancaster, Darby, &c. with the honours thereto belonging, with the honour also of Peverell. After him these were Earles of Derby out of the family of Ferrars (so far as I am able to gather out of the Registers of Tutbury, Merivall, and Burton Monasteries) William Ferrars, sonne to the Daughter and heire of Peverell, whom King John with his owne hand, (as we finde in an ancient Charter) invested Earle of Darby:* 1.288 William his sonne who bruised with a fall out of his Coach died in the yeere 1254. And this Williams sonne, Robert; who in the Civill Warre lost this Title and a great estate by forfei∣ture, in such sort as that none of his posterity, although they lived in great port and reputation, were ever restored to that honor againe: But most of this Roberts posses∣sions [ E] K. Henry the Third passed over unto Edmund his owne younger son: and King Edward the Third (I write out of the very originall Record) by authority and advise of the Parliament, ordained Henry of Lancaster, the sonne of Henry Earle of Lan∣caster, Earle of Darby, to him and his heires, and withall assigned unto him a thou∣sand markes yeerely during the life of his father Henry Earle of Lancaster. From that time this Title was united to the line of Lancaster, untill King Henry the Se∣venth, bestowed the same upon Thomas Lord Stanley, who before had wedded Mar∣garet the Kings mother, to him and the heires males of his body. He had for his suc∣cessour his Grandsonne Thomas begotten by George his sonne of Ioan the heire of the Lord Strange of Knocking: this Thomas had by the sister of George Earle of Hunting∣don, [ F] Edward, the third Earle of this Family, highly commended for hospitality and affability, who by the Lady Dorothy Daughter to the first Thomas Howard Duke of Norfolke, begat Henry the fourth Earle, efts-once honourably employed, who left by Lady Margaret Daughter of Henry Earle of Cumberland, Ferdinand, and William

Page 559

[ A] successively Earles of Darby. Ferdinand dyed in strange manner, in the flower of his youth, leaving by Margaret his Wife Daughter of Sir John Spenser of Althorp three Daughters, Anne marryed to Grey Bruges, Lord Chandos, Francis Wife to Sir Iohn Egerton, and Elizabeth Wife to Henry Earle of Huntingdon. William the sixth Earle now enjoyeth that Honour having issue by Elizabeth Daughter to Edward late Earle of Oxford.

[ B] ANd thus much of the Counties of Nottingham and Darby: of which they inhabited a part who in Bedes time were called Mercij Aquilonares,* 1.289 that is, The Northern Mercians, for that they dwelt beyond the Trent North∣ward: and they held, as hee saith, The land of seven thou∣sand Families.

This County holdeth in it Parishes 106.

Notes

Do you have questions about this content? Need to report a problem? Please contact us.