Britain, or A chorographicall description of the most flourishing kingdomes, England, Scotland, and Ireland, and the ilands adjoyning, out of the depth of antiquitie beautified vvith mappes of the severall shires of England: vvritten first in Latine by William Camden Clarenceux K. of A. Translated newly into English by Philémon Holland Doctour in Physick: finally, revised, amended, and enlarged with sundry additions by the said author.

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Title
Britain, or A chorographicall description of the most flourishing kingdomes, England, Scotland, and Ireland, and the ilands adjoyning, out of the depth of antiquitie beautified vvith mappes of the severall shires of England: vvritten first in Latine by William Camden Clarenceux K. of A. Translated newly into English by Philémon Holland Doctour in Physick: finally, revised, amended, and enlarged with sundry additions by the said author.
Author
Camden, William, 1551-1623.
Publication
London :: Printed by F. K[ingston] R. Y[oung] and I. L[egatt] for George Latham,
1637.
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"Britain, or A chorographicall description of the most flourishing kingdomes, England, Scotland, and Ireland, and the ilands adjoyning, out of the depth of antiquitie beautified vvith mappes of the severall shires of England: vvritten first in Latine by William Camden Clarenceux K. of A. Translated newly into English by Philémon Holland Doctour in Physick: finally, revised, amended, and enlarged with sundry additions by the said author." In the digital collection Early English Books Online. https://name.umdl.umich.edu/A17832.0001.001. University of Michigan Library Digital Collections. Accessed May 2, 2024.

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Page 456

[ A]

ICENI.

THe Region next unto the Trinobantes which afterwards [ B] was called East-England, and containeth Suffolke, Nor∣folke, and Cambridge-shire with Huntingdon-shire, was inhabited in times past by the ICENI, called elsewhere amisse TIGENI: and in Ptolomee more corruptly SIMENI: whom also I have thought heeetofore to have been in Caesar by a confused name, termed CENIMAGNI: and so to thinke induced I was, partly by that most neere affinity betweene these names [ C] ICENI, and CENI-MAGNI, and in part by the consent of Caesar and Tacitus together. For Caesar writeth that the Cenimagni yeelded them∣selves unto the Romans: which Tacitus recordeth that the Iceni likewise did, in these words: They willingly joyned in amity with us. But (that which maketh most to the cleering of this poynt) in a Manuscript old booke for CENIMAGNI, we finde written with the word divided in twaine, CENI¦AGNI. For which if I might not be thought somewhat too bould a Criticke, I would reade instead thereof ICENI, REGNI. Neither verily can you finde the Cenimagni elsewhere in all Britain, if they be a diverse people from [ D] the Iceni and Regni. But of this name ICENI, there remaine in this tract very many footings, if I may so tearme them, as Ikensworth, Ikenthorpe, Ikbortow, Iken, Ikining, Ichlingham, Eike, &c. Yea and that high street-way, which went from hence, the Historians of the former age every where doe name Ichenild-Street, as one would say, the Icenes street.

What should be the reason of this name (so love me Truth) I dare not guesse, unlesse one would fetch it from the Wedge-like-forme of the country, and say, it lieth Wedgwise vpon the Sea. For the Britans in their language call a Wedge [ E] Iken, and for the same cause a place in Wales, by the Lake or Meere Lhinte∣gid, is of that forme named Lhan-yken, as Welsh-Britans enformed me: and in the very same sense a little country in Spaine (as Strabo writeth) is cleped SPHEN, that is, The wedge, and yet the same seemeth not to resemble a wedge so neere, as this of ours doth.

A mighty nation this was, as saith Tacitus, and after they had betaken themselves to the protection of the Romans, never shaken nor troubled unto Claudius his time. For then, when as Ostorius the Romane Lieutenant rai∣sed [ F] fortifications vpon the rivers and disarmed the Britans, they assembled their forces and made head against him: but after that the Romanes had broken through the rampier, wherewith they had fenced themselves, they were vanqui∣shed

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[ A] not without great slaughter. In which fight verily, they performed many worthy acts, and M. Ostorius the Lieutenants sonne wonne the honour of sa∣ving a Citizens life. When this warre was thus husht, scarce 13. yeeres had gone over their heads, when a new tempest of warre arose upon these occasions. Prasu∣tagus King of these Iceni, to secure (though it were with the hurt of his own pri∣vate estate) his kinred from calamity, ordained by his last will and testament Nero the Emperor to be his heire, supposing that by this obsequious service of his (let Tacit. speak for me a while) his Kingdom and house both should be safe from [ B] all injury; which fell out cleane contrary: so that his Kingdome was wasted by the Centurions, and his house by slaves, as if they had been subdued by force. And now first of all, his wife Boodicia, who also is called Bunduica was whipped, and her daughters defloured. All the principall men of the Iceni, as though they had received the whole Country in free gift were stript of their goods, and turned out of their ancient inheritance: those also of the Kings stocke and bloud accoun∣ted no better than bondslaves. By occasions of which grievous injuries and for fear of greater indignities (for so much they had been reduced into the forme of a [ C] province) in all hast they tooke armes, having withall sollicited the Trinoban∣tes to rebellion, and others also who had not as yet been inured to bondage: These by privie conspiracies agreed to resume their libertie, being incensed with most bitter and deadly hatred against the old souldiers planted at Maldon above said. Thus began a most dangerous warre to kindle, which was set more on a light fire by the greedy covetousnesse of Seneca, who about that time exacted with extremitie 400000. Sesterces, an hundred times told, (which amount [ D] to three hundred thousand pounds of our money) so increased by his biting usu∣rious contracts.

In this warre, that I may be briefe, that Boodicia, whom Gildas seemeth to call the crafty Lionesse, wife to Prasutagus, slew outright of Romanes and their associates fourescore thousand, rased Caimalodunum their Colonie, and the free towne Verulamium. The ninth Legion she discomfited, and put to flight Catus Decianus the Procuratour: but at length she being put to the worst by Suetonius Paulinus in a pitched field, with an invincible courage and resolu∣tion [ E] died (as Tacitus writeth) by drinking a cup of poison; or as Dio saith, by sicknesse. In the heat of this war, Xiphilinus recordeth out of Dio, that the Bri∣tans especially worshipped the Goddesse VICTORIE under the name of AN∣DATES, which the Greeke booke in another place calleth Andrastes: also that in her sacred grove, they sacrificed prisoners alive in most barbarous and sa∣vage maner. And yet the Britans in these daies acknowledge no such name of Victorie, neither know I what the meaning of it should be, unlesse, as the La∣tins have called Victorie Victoriam, à vincendo, that is, of winning: the [ F] Sabins acunam, ab Vevacuando, that is, of emptying and making rid∣dance: and the Grecians NIKHN, 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, that is, of not yeelding or gi∣ving backe: so the Britans named it Anaraith, of overthrowing; For, so they terme a mischievous and deadly overthrow. But thus much slightly by the way. From those times ever since no mention is there in authors of the Iceni, neither

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can any thing by reading be found, but that the Romans, when their Empire went [ A] apace to decay, did set a new officer over the sea coasts along these and other coun∣tries to restraine the piracies and robberies of the Saxons, whom, as I have said heeretofore, they called Comes of the Saxons shore along Britaine.

But when the English Saxons now had established their Heptarchie in this Iland, this province became part of the Kingdome of East Angles, which of the site thereof Eastward they named in their language, 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, that is, The Kingdome of East English: and it had for the first King thereof, Vffa, whence his successors were a long time called Vff Kines, who seem to have [ B] been Vassals sometimes to the Kings of Mercia, and sometimes to the Kings of Kent. Whose offspring being come to an end in S. Edmund; the Danes overran this country most piteously for the space of 50. yeares or thereabout, afflicting it with all the calamities that accompany the wars: untill that King Edward the elder having subdued them united it at length to his owne Kingdom of the West-Saxons. But afterwards, it had peculiar Presidents and Governors: which hono∣rable place at the first comming in of the Normans, and a while after one Ralph [ C] born in the lesser Britain held; a man of a perfidious disposition and disloyall, who at a celebration of a marriage in most sumptuous manner, wickedly with many moe conspired the death of William the Conqueror▪ but in vaine it was to hope for secrecy and trust, among so many privie to the conspiracy: For, it was disco∣vered, and he deprived of his dignity was attainted, and the rest beheaded. But these things are to bee handled more at large by the Historians: and now let us goe in hand with that which belongeth properly, to our purpose, that is, the places themselves.

What kind of country this was, behold how Abbo Floriacensis, who lived in the yeare of Christ 970. hath pictured out in these words: This part [ D] which is called East Angle or East England is renowned, as for other causes, so in this regard, that it is watered almost on every side: being on the Southeast and East environed with the Ocean, and on the North-east with huge Fennes soked in moisture, which rising by reason of the levell ground from the mids in manner of all Britaine, for the space of a hundred miles and more doth descend with the greatest rivers into the sea. But of that side which lieth Westward the Province it selfe is continuate to the rest of the Iland, and therefore passable throughout: but, least it should be overrun with the often irruptions and brea∣kings [ E] in of enemies, it is fensed along with a banke like unto a wall, and a Trench. Inwardly the soile is fruitfull enough, and the country of a passing fresh hue, with pleasant Orchards, Gardens, and groves, most delectable for hunting, notable for pastures, and not meanly stored with sheepe and other cattell. I say nothing of the fishfull rivers, considering that of the one side the sea licketh it with his Tongue: and of the other side there are by reason of the broad Fennes and wide Marishes an infinite number of pooles two or three miles over. Which Fennes doe afford to a multitude of Monkes their wished [ F] private retyrings of a recluse and solitary life: wherein as long as they are en∣closed, they need not the solitarinesse of any desert Wildernesse.
Thus farre Abbo.

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[illustration]
SVFFOLIAE Comitatus (cuius Populi olim icm Dicti) Continens inse oppida mercatoria xxv Pagos et Villas CCCCLXIIII. Vna cum singulis Hundredis et fluminibus in codee Auc Fore Christphr Saxton.

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[illustration]

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[ A] SOUTH-FOLKE or SUFFOLKE.

SUFFOLKE, which wee must speake of first, in the Saxon Tongue 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, that is, South-folke, or people in respect of Northfolke, hath on the West side Cambridge-shire, on the South the River Stoure, which divideth it from Essex: on the East side the German Sea, and on the North two little Rivers; Ouse the least, and Waveney, which flowing out as it were of [ B] the same Fountaine, runne divers wayes, and sever it apart from Norfolke. A large country it is, and full of havens, of a fat and fertile Soile, (unlesse it be Eastward) being compounded (as it is) of clay and marle: by meanes whereof, there are in every place most rich and goodly corne fields, with pastures as battable, for grazing and feeding of cattell. And great store of cheeses are there made, which to the great commodity of the Inhabitants are vented into all parts of England: Nay into Germany, France, and Spaine also, as Pantaleon the Physitian writeth, who stucke not to compare these of ours for color, and tast both with those of Placentia: but he was no dainty toothed scholar out of Apicius schoole. Nei∣ther bee there wanting woods heere, which have beene more plentifull, and parkes; [ C] for many there are lying to Noble mens and Gentlemens houses replenished with game.

This County was divided politically into three parts: whereof one is called the Geldable, because out of it there is gathered a Tribute: a second, Saint Edmunds li∣berty, for that it belonged to his Abbay: the third Saint Audries liberty, because it appertained to Ely Abbay, unto which our Kings in times past granted certaine terri∣tories with Sach and Soch, as saith Ely Booke, without any exception either of Ecclesiasti∣call or secular jurisdiction. But let us survey it Chorographically, and beginning at the East side take a view of the better and more remarkeable places.

Where it lyeth West and toward Cambridgeshire, in the very limite standeth [ D] Ixning, more famous in times past than now. For Audre the Virgin K. Annas daugh∣ter and canonized for a Saint, was heere borne, Ralph also Earle of this East Eng∣land heere entred into conspiracy against William the Conquerour, and Hervey the first Bishop of Ely made a causey or high way from hence to Ely.

But now, for that Newmercate is so neer, whither men resort with their wares and commodities more frequently, it hath begunne to decay. That this Newmercate is a Towne of late dayes built, the very name it selfe doth import: and it is situate in such sort, that the South part therof belongeth to Cambridgeshire, the North side to Suffolke: and both of them have their severall small Churches: whereof this acknowledgeth Ixning, the former Ditton or Dichton, for their mother. Heereof I [ E] have found by reading nothing, but that under King Henry the Third, Sir Robert L' Isle gave one part of it in franke marriage with his daughter Cassandra unto Sir Ri∣chard de Argenton, from whom the Alingtons are descended.

Heere lyeth out a great way round about, a large Plaine, named of this Towne, Newmarket Heath, consisting of a sandy and barren ground yet greene withall, wherein is to bee seene that wonderfull Ditch, which, as if it had beene cast by the devill, the common sort call Devils Dike, whereas in very trueth, most certainly it is knowne to be one of them, wherewith the Inhabitants, (as Abbo writeth) fenced themselves against the inrodes of their enemies, as shall bee shewed more at large when we are come to Cambridgeshire. Yet in the meane time, I am heere to adver∣tise [ F] the Reader, that the least of all these ditches sheweth it selfe two miles from hence betweene Snaile-well and Moulton.

More within the Country is that renowned Towne of Saint Edmund, which in the Saxons age, men called 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉: and in the time of the Britans, as it should seeme, was that VILLA FAUSTINI, whereof Antonine maketh mention: for of that

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opinion was Talbot a man right skilfull in antiquities, and very much conversant in [ A] this part of England. The distance also, as well from the Iciani, as from Colonia in Antonine agreeth well enough: And as Villa in the Latine Tongue signifieth some Gentlemans house standing upon his land, so 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, in old English betokened the same. For, that Abbo aforesaid, interpreteth Bederics-gueord, by these words Bederici Cortis, that is, Villa, that is to say, Bederics-Court, Farme, or Mansion house. Besides that, the Englishmen may seeme to have brought the significancy of that Latine word into their owne Language: For as Faustinus in Latin implieth a certaine mea∣ning of prosperity: so doth Bederic in the German tongue, as writeth that most lear∣ned Hadrianus Iunius, where he interpreteth the name of Betorix (who in Strabo was the sonne of Melo the Sicambrian,) Full of happinesse and favour. But if these were di∣vers [ B] persons, I willingly confesse that I am ignorant, who that Faustinus, and who this Bedericus was. Sure I am that it was not that VILLA FAUSTINI, which Martiall in his Epigrammes depainteth: and if I said it was the habitation of that Beric, who being driven out of Britaine, as Dio writeth, persuaded the Emperour Claudius to warre upon the Britans, I should not beleeve my selfe. But whatsoever it was, if it be not that Faustini Villa, yet seemeth it to have beene of famous memory, considering that when Christian Religion began to spring up in this Tract, King Si∣gebert here founded a Church; and Abbo called it Villam regiam, that is, A royall towne: But after that the people had translated hither the body of Edmund that most Chri∣stian King, whom the Danes with exquisite torments had put to death, and built in [ C] honour of him a very great Church wrought with a wonderfull frame of timber, it beganne to bee called Edmundi Burgus, commonly Saint Edmundbury, and more shortly, Bury: and flourished marveilous much. But especially since that King Canu∣tus for to expiate the sacrilegious impiety of his father Suenus against this Church, being affrighted with a vision of Saint Edmunds, built it againe of a new worke, en∣riched it, offered his owne Crowne unto the holy Martyr, brought into it Monkes with their Abbot, and gave unto it many faire and large Manours, and among other things the Towne it selfe full and whole: over which the Monkes themselves by their Seneschall had rule and jurisdiction. Whereupon, Ioscelin de Branklond a Monke of this house, writeth thus: The men as well without the Burgh as within are ours, and all [ D] within Banna Leuca enjoy the same libertie.

Afterwards, Herveie the Abbot comming of the Norman bloud, compassed it round about with a wall, whereof there remaine still some few Reliques, and Abbot Newport walled the Abbay. The Bishop of Rome endowed it with very great immu∣nities and among other things granted, That the said place should bee subject to no Bishop in any matter, and in matters lawfull depend upon the pleasure and direction of the Arch∣bishop. Which is yet observed at this day. And now by this time the Monkes aboun∣ding in wealth erected a new Church of a sumptuous and stately building, enlarging it every day more than other with new workes; and whiles they laid the foundation of a new Chappell in the Reigne of Edward the First, There were found (as Eversden a [ E] Monke of this place writeth) The walles of a certaine old Church built round, so as that the Altar stood (as it were) in the mids, and we verily thinke, saith he, it was that, which was first built to Saint Edmunds service: But what manner of Towne this was, and how great the Abbay also was while it stood, heare Leland speake: who saw it standing: The Sunne (saith hee) hath not seene either a City more finely seated, (so delicately standeth it upon the easie ascent or hanging of an hill, and a little River runneth downe on the East side there∣of:) or a goodlier Abbay, whether a man indifferently consider, either the endowment with Revenewes, or the largenesse, or the incomparable magnificence thereof. A man that saw the Abbay would say verily it were a Citie: so many Gates there are in it, and some of brasse, so many Towres, and a most stately Church: Upon which attend three others also standing [ F] gloriously in one and the same Churchyard, all of passing fine and curious Workmanship. If you demand how great the wealth of this Abbay was, a man could hardly tell, and namely how many gifts and oblations were hung upon the Tombe alone of Saint Edmund: and besides, there came in, out of lands and Revenewes, a thousand five hun∣dered

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[ A] and three score pounds of old rent by the yeare. If I should relate the broiles severally that from time to time arose betweene the Townesmen and the Monkes (who by their Steward governed the Townesmen) and with how great rage they fell together by the eares, purposedly to kill one another, my relation would seeme incredible. But as great a peece of worke as this was, so long in building and still encreasing, and as much riches as they gathered together for so many yeares with S. Edmunds shrine, and the monuments of Alan Rufus Earle of Britaine and Richmond, Sir Thomas of Brotherton sonne to King Edward the first Earle of Norfolke, and Mar∣shall of England, Thomas of Beaufor, Duke of Excester, W. Earle of Stafford, Marie Queene Dowager of France Daughter to King Henry the Seaventh, and many other [ B] worthie personages there Entombed; were by King Henry the Eighth utterly overthrowne. What time as at one clappe hee suppressed all Monasteries; per∣swaded thereto by such as under a goodly pretense of reforming religion preferred their private respects and their owne enriching before the honour of Prince and Country, yea and before the Glory of God himselfe. And yet there remaineth still lying along the carcasse, as one would say, of that auncient monument, altoge∣ther deformed, but (for ruines I assure you) they make a faire and goodly shew, which who soever beholdeth, hee may both wonder thereat, and withall take pity thereof. England also, that I may note this also by the way if ever else it had losse [ C] by the death of any Man, sustained here one of the greatest. For, that father in deede of his Country Humfrey Duke of Glocester a due observer of Iustice, and who had furnished his noble witte with the better and deeper kinde of studies, after hee had under King Henry the Sixth governed the Kingdome five and twenty yeares with great commendation, so that neither good men had cause to complaine of, nor evill to finde fault with, was here in Saint Saviours Hospitall brought to his end by the spightfull envy of Margaret of Lorain. Who seeing her husband King Henry the Sixth, to bee a man of a silly simple minde and faint hearted, to the end shee might draw into her owne hands the managing of the State, devised and plotted this wic∣ked [ D] deed: but to her owne losse, and this Realme, in the highest degree. For Nor∣mandy and Aquitane were thereby shortly after lost, and Warres more then civill en∣kindled in England.

Nere unto this Saint Edmunds Bury, is Rushbroke to be seene, the habitation of the worshipfull Family of the Iermins, Knights: and not farre from thence Ikesworth, where there stood an auncient Priory founded by Gilbert Blund, a man of great no∣bility and Lord of Ikesworth, whose issue male by the right line, ended in William, that in King Henry the Third his dayes was slaine in the battell at Lewis, and left two sisters his Heires, Agnes wife to William de Creketot, and Roise wedded to Robert de Valoniis. Afterward, both here, at Haulsted neere by Rougham, and else-where, the [ E] Family of Drury, (which signifieth in old English, A Pretious jewell) hath beene of great respect and good note, especially since they married with the heires of Fressil, and Saxham.

More Northward is Saint Genovefs Fernham, in this regard memorable, for that Richard Lucy Lord chiefe Justice of England tooke Prisoner there in a pight fielde Robert Earle of Leicester, making foule worke and havocke here; and withall put to the sword above ten thousand Flemings, whom hee had levied and sent forth to the depopulation of his Country. Here hard by, I had the sight of two very faire houses the one built by the Kitsons Knights, at Hengrave, the possession in times past of [ F] Edmund de Hengrave, a most renowned Lawyer under King Edward the First: the other at Culfurth, erected by Sir Nicolas Bacon, Knight, sonne unto that Sir Nicolas Bacon, Lord Keeper of the great Seale of England: who for his singular wisedome and most sound judgement, was right worthily esteemed one of the two Supporters of this Kingdome in his time. And not farre off standeth Lidgate a small Village, yet in this respect not to be passed over in silence, because it brought into the World Iohn Lidgate the Monke, whose witte may seeme to have beene framed and shapen by the very Muses themselves: so brightly re-shine in his English verses, all the plea∣sant

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graces and elegancies of speech, according to that age. Thus much for the more [ A] memorable places on the West side of Suffolke.

On the South side wee saw the river Stour, which immediately from the very spring head spreadeth a great Mere, called Stourmeer: but soone after drawing it selfe within the bankes runneth first by Clare a noble Village: which had a Castle, but now decayed, and gave name to the right noble Family of the Clares, descended from Earle Gislebert the Norman: and the title of Dukedome unto Leonel King Edward the Thirds sonne, who after hee had married a wife out of that house was entituled by his father, Duke of Clarence. For he of this place with a fuller sound, than that of Clare, was stiled Duke of Clarence, (like as before him the sonnes of Earle Gislebert and [ B] their successors, were hence surnamed De Clare) and called Earles of Clare. Who died at Languvill in Italy, after he had by a second marriage, matched with a Daughter of Galacius Vicount of Millain: and in the Collegiat Church here lieth interred: as also Ioan Acres daughter to King Edward the first, married to Gislebert de Clare Earle of Glocester. Here peradventure the Readers may looke, that I should set downe the Earles of Clare so denominated of this place, and the Dukes of Clarence, considering they have beene alwayes in this Realme of right honorable reputation: and verily so will I doe in few words, for their satisfaction in this behalfe. Richard the sonne of Gislebert Earle of Augy in Normandy served in the warres under King William when hee entred England, and by him was endowed with the Townes of Clare [ C] and Tunbridge. This Gislebert begat foure sonnes, namely Gislebert, Roger, Walter, and Robert; from whom the Fitz-walters are descended. Gislebert by the daughter of the Earle of Cleremont had issue Richard, who succeeded him; Gislebert, of whom came that Noble Richard Earle of Pembroch and Conquerour of Ireland; and Wal∣ter. Richard the first begotten sonne was slaine by the Welshmen and left behinde him two sonnes Gilbert and Roger. Gilbert in King Stephens dayes was Earle of Herford: howbeit both he and his Successours are more often and commonly cal∣led Earles of Clare, of this their principall seat and habitation, yea and so many times they wrote themselves. After him dying without issue, succeeded his brother Ro∣ger, [ D] whose sonne Richard tooke to wife Amice the daughter and one of the Heires to William Earle of Glocester, in right of whom his posterity were Earles of Glocester. And those you may see in their due place. But when at length their issue male fai∣led, Leonel Third sonne of King Edward the Third, (who had married Elizabeth the Daughter and sole Heire of William de Burgh Earle of Vlster, begotten of the Bodie of Elizabeth Clare) was by his Father honoured with this new Title, Duke of Clarence.

But when as hee had but one onely Daughter named Phillippa, wife to Edmund Mortimer Earle of March, King Henry the Fourth created Thomas his owne yon∣ger sonne Duke of Clarence, who being withall Earle of Albemarle, High Steward [ E] of England and Governour of Normandy, and having no lawfull issue was slaine in Anjou by the violent assault of Scots and French. A long time after, king Edward the Fourth bestowed this honour upon his owne brother George, whom after grie∣vous enmity and bitter hatred, hee had received againe into favour, and yet at the last made an end of him in prison, causing him, as the report currently goeth, to be drowned in a Butte of Malmesey. A thing naturally engraffed in men, that whom they have feared, and with whom they have contended in matter of life, those they hate for ever, though they be their naturall brethren.

From Clare, by Long-Melford, a very faire Almes-house lately built by that good [ F] man Sir William Cordal Knight, and Maister of the Rolls, Stour passeth on, and com∣meth to Sudbury, that is to say, the South-Burgh, and runneth in manner round about it, which men suppose to have beene in old time the chiefe towne of this Shire, and to have taken this name in regard of Norwich, that is, The Northren Towne. Neither would it take it well at this day to be counted much inferiour to the Townes adjoy∣ning: for, it is populous and wealthy, by reason of Clothing there, and hath for the chiefe Magistrate, a Major, who every yeare is chosen out of seaven Aldermen. Not

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[ A] farre from hence distant, is Edwardeston, a Towne of no great name at this day, but yet in times past it had Lords therein dwelling of passing great Honour, of the sur∣name of Mont-chensie: out of which Family Sir Guarin Montchensie married the daughter and one of the heires of that mighty William Marescall, Earle of Pembroch, and of her begat a daughter named Ioan, who unto the stile of her Husband William de Valentia of the family of Lusignie in France, brought and adjoyned the title of Earle of Penbroch. But the said Sir Guarin Mont-chensy, as he was a right honourable person, so he was a man exceeding wealthy, in so much as in those dayes they accounted him the most potent Baron, and the rich Crassus of England. For his last will and te∣stament amounted unto two hundred thousand Markes, no small wealth as the stan∣dard [ B] was then. From a younger brother or cadet of this house of Montchensie, issued by an heire generall the Family of the Waldgraves, who have long flourished in Knightly degree at Smalebridge neerer to Stoure, as another Family of great account in elder ages at Buers, which was thereof surnamed.

A few miles from hence Stour is enlarged with Breton a small Brooke, at one of whose heads is seene Bretenham a very slender little towne, where fcarce remaineth any shew at all of any great building: and yet both the neere resemblance and the signification of the name partly induced me to thinke it to be that COMBRETONIUM whereof Antonine the Emperour made mention in this tract. For like as Bretenham in English signifieth an Habitation, or Mansion place by Breton, so Combretonium in Bri∣tish [ C] or Welsh betokeneth a Valley, or a place lying somewhat low by Breton. But this in Peutegerius his Table is falsly named COMVETRONUM and ADCOVECIN. Somewhat Eastward from hence is Nettlested seene, of whence was Sir Thomas Wentworth, whom King Henry the Eighth adorned with the title of Baron Went∣worth, and neere thereto is Offion, that is to say, The towne of Offa King of the Mercians, where upon a clay Hill lie the ruines of an ancient Castle, which they say Offa built, after he had wickedly murdered Aethelbert King of the East-Angles, and usurped his Kingdome.

But to returne to the River Breton. Upon another brooke that joyneth therewith standeth Lancham a pretty Mercat, and neere it the Manour of Burnt-Elleie, where∣unto [ D] King Henry the Third granted a Mercate at the request of Sir Henry Shelton Lord thereof, whose posterity a long time heere flourished. Hadley, in the Saxons language 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, is watered with the same brooke: a towne of good note in these dayes for making of Clothes: and in old time much mentioned by our Historians, because Guthrum or Gormo the Dane was heere buried. For, when Aelfred brought him to this passe, that he became Christian and was baptized, hee assigned unto him these countries of the East-Angles, that he might (to use the words of mine Author) cherish them by right of inheritance under the Allegiance of a King, which he had overrunne by robbing and ransacking.

From hence Breton speedeth it selfe by Higham, whence the family of Higham is [ E] so named, to Stour which joyntly in one streame runne not farre from Bentley, where the Talmachs of a celebrate ancient house flourished for a long time, and after a few miles neere unto Arwerton the house long since of the family of the Bacons; who held this Manour, and Brome, by conducting all the footemen of Suffolke and Norfolke from S. Edmunds dike in the warres of Wales. Now it belongeth to the Parkers haere∣ditarily, who by the Fathers side derive their descent from the Barons Morley, and by the Mothers from the Calthrops, a Family sometime of great account in these parts. Beneath this Stour falleth into the Ocean; and at the very mouth thereof, the river Orwell or Gipping dischargeth it selfe together with it.

This River springeth up in the very navell or centre, as one would say, of this [ F] shire, out of two fountaines, the one neere to Wulpet, the other by Gipping a small Village. Wulpet is a Mercat towne, and soundeth as much as, The Wolves pit, if wee may beleeve Nubrigensis who hath told as prety and formall a tale of this place as is that fable called the TRUE NARRATION of Lucian: namely, how two little Boyes (forsooth) of a greene colour, and of Satyrs kinde, after they had made

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a long journey by passages under the ground, from out of another world from the [ A] Antipodes and Saint Martins Land, came up heere: of whom if you would know more, repayre to the Author himselfe, where you shall finde such matter as will make you laugh your fill, if you have a laughing spleene. I wote not whether I were best to relate here, into what a vaine hope of finding gold at Norton hard by, a cer∣taine credulous desire of having, enticed and allured king Henry the Eight; but the digging and undermining there sufficiently shew it, although I say nothing. But be∣tween Gipping and Wulpet upon an high hill remain the tokens of Hawhglee an ancient Castle, taking up much about two Acres of ground. Some affirme this to have beene called Hagoneth Castle, which belonged to Ralph le Broc, and that in the yeere 1173. it was by Robert Earle of Leicester won and overthrowne in the intestine warre be∣tweene [ B] king Henry the Second, and his unkindely disloyall sonne.

Upon the same River are seene two little Mercat Townes, Stow and Needham, and not farre from the banke, Hemingston: in which Baldwin Le Pettour (marke his name well) held certaine lands, by Serjeanty, (the words I have out of an old booke) for which on Christmasse day, every yeere before our soveraigne Lord the King of England he should performe one Saltus, one Suffletus, and one Bumbulus, or, as wee read elsewhere, his tenour was, per saltum, sufflum, & pettum, that is, if I understand these tearmes aright, That hee should daunce, puffe up his cheekes making therewith a sound, and besides let a cracke downeward. Such was the plaine and jolly mirth of those times. And observed it is, that unto this Foe, the Manour of Langhall be∣longed. [ C]

Neere unto the mouth of this river we saw Ipswich, in times past Gippwich, a faire towne resembling a Citty, situate in a ground somewhat low: which is the eye (as it were) of this shire, as having an Haven commodious enough; fenced in times past with a trench and rampire, of good trade and stored with wares, well peopled, and full of Inhabitants, adorned with foureteene Churches, and with goodly, large and stately edifices. I say nothing of foure religious houses now overturned, and that sumptuous and magnificent Colledge which Cardinall Wolsey a Butchers sonne of this place, here began to build, whose vast minde reached alwayes at things too high. The body politike, or corporation of this towne consisteth, as I was enfor∣med, [ D] of twelve Burgesses (Portmen they terme them) out of whom are chosen yeere∣ly for the head Magistrates two Baillives, and as many Justices out of foure and twen∣ty others. As touching the Antiquity thereof so farre as ever I could observe▪ the name of it was not heard of before the Danish invasion, whereof it smarted: For in the yeere of salvation 991. the Danes sacked and spoyled it, and all the Sea coast with so great cruelty, that Siritius Archbishop of Canterbury, and the Nobles of England thought it the safest and best course they could take, to redeeme and buy their peace of them for the summe of ten thousand pounds. Neverthelesse, within nine yeeres, they made spoyle of this towne againe, and presently thereupon the Englishmen valiantly encountred them in the field, but through the cowardly running away of [ E] one man alone, named Turkill, as writeth Henry of Huntingdon (for in matter of warre things of small weight otherwise, are of right great moment, and sway very much) our men were put to flight, and let the victory slip out of their hands. In the reigne of S. Edward, as we finde in the Survey booke of England, out of this towne Queene Edeva had two parts, and Earle Guert a third part: and Burgesses there were eight hundred, paying custome to the King. But after the Normans had possessed themselves of England, they erected a pile or Castle here, which Hugh Bigod defended for a good while against Stephen the usurping King of England, but surrendred it in the end: This fort is now quite gone, so as there remaine not so much as the ruines thereof. Some say it was in the parish of Westfield hard by, where is to be seene the rubbish of a Ca∣stle, [ F] and where old Gipwic, as men say, stood in times past. I thinke verely it was then demolished, when K. Henry the second laied Waleton Castle neer unto it even with the ground. For it was a place of refuge for Rebels, and here landed those three thousand Flemings whom the nobles of Englād had called in against him, what time as he un∣advisedly

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[ A] hee had made Prince Henry his sonne King, and of equall power with himselfe: and the young man knowing no meane, would bee in the highest place or none, set upon a furious desire of the Kingdome, most unnaturally waged warre against his owne father. Albeit these Castles are now cleane decaied and gone, yet this Shore is defended sufficiently with an huge banke, they call it Langerston, that for two miles or thereabout in length lyeth forth into the maine Sea, as hee saith, not without great danger and terrour of such as saile that way: howbeit the same serveth very well for Fishermen to dry their fishes, and after a sort is a de∣fence unto that spatious and wide Haven of Orwell. And thus much for the South part of this Shire.

[ B] From hence the curving Shore (for all this East part lyeth full against the Sea) shooting forth Northward straight-way openeth it selfe to the Deben, a Riveret having his spring-head neere unto Mendelesham; unto which Towne, the Lord of the place H. Fitz Otho, Master of the Mint, purchased the liberty of Mercat and Faire: by whose Heires there fell no small Possessions unto the Boutetorts Lords of Wily in Worcestershire, and from them againe in the Raigne of Richard the Second, unto Frevil, Barkley of Stoke, Burnel, and others.

This River Deben first floweth hard unto the little Mercat Towne Debenham, and giveth it the name, which others would have to be called more truly Depenham, for that the waies every where about it, by reason of a clay ground and the same over [ C] moist, are very deepe and cumberous. From thence it runneth by Vfford the seat in times past of Robert de Vfford Earle of Suffolke, and by a Towne over against it on the other side of the River named Rendelisham, that is, as Beda interpreteth it, Ren∣dils Mansion place, where Redwald King of the East Saxons kept usually his Court, who was the first of all his Nation that was baptised, and received Christianity; but afterwards, seduced by his Wife, he had in the selfe same Church, as saith Beda, one Altar for Christs Religion, and another for sacrifices unto Devils. In this place also Swidelm a King of the East-Angles was likewise afterwards baptised by Bi∣shop Chadda.

From hence the River Deben passeth downe to Woodbridge, a little Towne beau∣tified [ D] with faire houses; where at certaine set times are holden Assemblies for Saint Andrees Liberty: and after it hath gone some few miles, it is received into the Ocean at Bawdsey Haven.

By this time now the Shore creepeth by little and little Eastward to the mouth of the River Ore, which runneth neere to Framlingham Castle, belonging some∣time to the Bigods by the bounty of King Henry the First: and forthwith on the West side thereof spreadeth (as it were) into a lake. A very faire and beautifull Ca∣stle this is, fortified with a banke, ditch, and walles of great thicknesse, wherein are thirteene towres, and inwardly furnished with buildings right commodious and ne∣cessary. From hence it was that in the yeare of our Redemption 1173. what time [ E] as King Henry the Second his rebellious sonne tooke armes against his father, Ro∣bert Earle of Leicester, with his mercenary Flemings infested this Country farre and neere: from this Castle also in the yeare 1553. Queene Mary entred upon her Kingdome, for all the ambitious fretting and fuming of Iohn Dudley Duke of Nor∣thumberland against King Henry the Eighth his Daughters.

Then commeth the River to Parrham a little Towne, the Lord whereof William Willoughby King Edward the Sixth honoured with the Estate of a Baron: and after∣wards running by Glemham, which gave name to an ancient Family descended from the Bacons and Brandons; at Oreford, that tooke the name of it, disburdeneth himselfe into the Sea. A bigge Towne this was and of great resort, fenced also with a Castle [ F] of a reddish stone, and appertained in times past to the Valoineis, and afterwards to the Willoughbies, but complaineth at this day of the seas unkindnesse which shrin∣keth backe from it by little and little, and beginneth to envie the commodity of an Haven unto the Towne. Neither have I any thing else to say of Oreford, unlesse it please you to runne over these few words of Ralph Cogeshall an old Writer.

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In King Henry the Seconds daies, saith hee, when Bartholmew Glanvile kept the Castle [ A] of Oreford, it happened that the Fishermen caught a wilde man within their nets, who in all parts and members of his body resembled a man, had haire on his head, a huge beard with a Piloe devant, about the breast exceeding hairy and rough: who notwithstanding slipt away secretly to the Sea and was never seene after: So that it may bee very true, which is so rise with the common people, That there is nothing bred in any part of Nature, but the same also is in the Sea: and that it is not altogether a fained Fable, that Plinie hath reported of a Triton taken on the Shore of Portugall, and of the Sea∣man caught in the Streights of Gibraltare.

Not much higher, lyeth Aldborough for Situation right safe and very plea∣sant within Slaughden vale, where from the East the Sea, and from the West the Ri∣ver [ B] beateth. This name Aldburgh, is by interpretation the Old Burgh, or as others would have it, The Burgh upon the River Ald. Now it is an harbour very commodi∣ous for Sailers and Fishermen, and thereby well frequented, and acknowledgeth the Ocean Sea to be favourable unto it, how spitefull soever and malicious it is to other Townes in this Coast. Neere unto it, what time as in the yeare 1555. by reason of unseasonable weather the Corne throughout all England was choked and blasted in the eare, there grew Pease miraculously among the rocks, without any earth at all about them about the end of September, and brought downe the price of Corne. Yet the wiser sort of men doe say that Pulse being cast upon the Shore by Ship∣wracke is wont otherwhiles to come up againe there, so that the thing is not to [ C] bee thought miraculous: But, that the like usually every yeare grow of their owne accord among the stones on the Shore of Kent, I have shewed already.

From hence coasting along the Shore, at ten miles end, wee met with Dunwich, in the English Saxon tongue Dunmoc, whereof Beda maketh mention: where Faelix the Burgumdium that reduced the Eastangles againe into the faith, when they were backesliding from Christ, in the yeare of Grace 630. placed an Episcopall See, whose Successours for many yeares together were Bishops over all East England. But Bise the Fourth Bishop after Faelix, when hee became very aged and sickly withall, being not able to discharge so great a Jurisdiction, divided it into two Sees: the one continued still in this Dunwich, the other hee placed in North Elm∣ham, [ D] a little Towne. In the Raigne of William the Conquerour, Dunwich had in it two hundred and sixe and thirty Burgesses: an hundred poore people: it was valued at fifty pounds, and threescore thousand Herings, of gift. For, so wee reade in Domes-day Booke. In the foregoing Age, it was well peopled and frequented with Inhabitants: famous also for a Mint therein: and in the Raigne of Henry the Second, as William of Newborough writeth, It was a Towne of good note, and full sto∣red with sundry kindes of Riches. At which time, when England was all on a light fire with new stirres and broiles, it was so fortified, that it made Robert Earle of Leicester affraid, who with his Army over-ranne all the parts there-about at his pleasure. But now by a certaine peculiar spite and envie of Nature, that suffe∣reth [ E] the greedy Sea to have what it will and encroche still without all end, the greatest part thereof is violently carried away with the waves, and by reason that the Bishops many yeares agoe translated their Seat to another Place, it lyeth (as it were) desolate. A little above it, the River Blith voideth it selfe into the Sea, on whose banke Southward wee saw Blithborow a small Towne, which for no o∣ther thing is memorable, but because Anna a Christian King was there buried, whom Penda the Mercian slew in a pitched Field. It was beautified by King Henry the First with a Colledge of Chanons, who granted the same as a Cell to the Chanons of Saint Osiths. And it was made a Mercate by the meanes of Iohn Lord of Clavering, unto whom King Edward the Second gave this Liberty to∣gether [ F] with the Faire. And verily a goodly Inheritance hee had in this Tract, as who derived his Descent from the Daughter and Heire of William Cheney, who held the Barony of Horsford in the County of Norfolke, and erected the little Abbay at Sibton.

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[ A] Heere the Promontory Easton-Nesse shooteth out, and reacheth farre into the East, which is deemed to bee the farthest East point in all Britaine; Ptolomee calleth it 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, or EXTENSIO. And that you may not doubt, that this is the very same which wee call Easton, bee it knowne unto you, that Eysteney in the British tongue is the same that in Greeke 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, and in Latine Extensio, that is, A stretching forth: although this name may seeme with as good probability to have beene imposed in our English Language, of the Situation Eastward. Upon the point of this Pro∣montory standeth Easton a Village of Fishermen well neere eaten up by Sea, and on South side of this Promontory, Southwold lieth in the Plaine, full against the open shore of the sea: a Towne well enough frequented through the benefit of an Haven [ B] that the River Blith emptying it selfe there into the Sea maketh; and at every high water it is so invironed with the waves, that it seemeth to bee an Island, and a man would wonder that it is not overflowne. In so much as when I saw the manner thereof, I called that saying of Cicero into my remembrance: What should I speak of the Sea Tides about Spaine and Britaine, and of their Flowing and Ebbing at certaine times? Surely, they cannot bee without the hand of God, who hath restrained and gaged the waves within their bounds. More within the land Wingfield sheweth it selfe, where the walles of a Castle halfe downe are to bee seene: which hath given name to a family in this Tract that is spred into a number of branches, and is besides for knighthood and ancient Gentility renowned, and thereof it was the principall seat: [ C] Also Dunnington, which standeth much upon the Lord thereof Sir Iohn Philips, fa∣ther to that Sir William who married the daughter and Heire of Baron Bardolph, whose daughter and Heire likewise Iohn Vicount Beaumont tooke to Wife: But now the Habitation it is of the ancient Family of the Rousses. Not farre from hence standeth Huntingfield, which had a Baron of that name in King Edward the Third his time, and neere unto it Heveningham, the residence of the Family of Heveningham, knights: who are knowne to bee of very great antiquity: and not farre off standeth Halesworth, in times past Healsworda, an ancient Towne of the Ar∣gentons, and now of the Alingtons: unto which Sir Richard Argenton obtained at the hand of King Henry the Third the liberty of a Mercate.

[ D] I gave you to understand before, that two small Rivers, Ouse the least, and Wave∣ney on the North side, divided this County from Norfolke; which Riverets ri∣sing out of a Marish ground by Lophamford, from two springs but a little a sunder one from another, take their courses divers wayes with creekes full of shallow fourds. Along by Ouse which runneth Westward, there is nothing in this Quarter to bee seene worth the report. By Waveney side that tendeth Eastward, first is Hox∣on in times past Hegilsdon ennobled by reason of King Edmunds Martyrdome. For there the most cruell and bloudy Danes (that I may use the words of Abbo) ha∣ving bound the most Christian King to a tree, for that hee would not renounce Christianity, shot him in with sharpe arrowes all his body over, augmenting the paines of his torment [ E] with continuall piercing him with arrow after arrow, and thus inflicted wound upon wound, so long as one arrow could stand by another: And as a Poet of middle time versified of him.

Iam loca vulneribus desunt, nec dum furiosis Tela, sed hyberna grandine plura volant. Though now no place was left for wound, yet arrowes did not faile, These furious Wretches; still they flie thicker than winter haile.

In which place afterwards stood a very faire house of the Bishops of Norwich, untill they exchanged it not long since for the Abbay of Saint Benet. Hard by, at Brome, dwelt a long time the family of Cornwalleis, of knights degree: of whom Sir [ F] Iohn Cornwal was Steward of Edward the Sixth his Houshold while hee was Prince; and his sonne Sir Thomas, for his wisdome and faithfulnesse became one of the privie counsell to Queene Mary, and Controller of her royall House. Beneath it lieth Eay, that is, The Island; so called, because it is watered on every side with brookes, where are to bee seene the rubbish, ruines, and decayed walles of an old Castle

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that belonged to Robert Malet a Norman Baron. But after that he under King Hen∣ry [ A] the First was deprived of his Dignity, because he sided with Robert Duke of Nor∣mandy against the King, the said King bestowed this Honour upon Stephen Earle of Bullen, who, being afterwards the Vsufructuary King of England left it unto his son William Earle of Warren. But after hee had surrendred his State to King Henry the Second, and lost his life in the expedition of Tholose, the King held it in his owne hands untill that King Richard the First confer'd it upon Henry the Fifth of that name Duke of Brabant and of Lorain, together with King Stephens Neece by his daughter, who had beene a professed Nunne. Long time after, when it was now de∣volved againe upon the Kings of England, King Edward the third gave it, as I have read, to Sir Robert Vfford Earle of Suffolke. [ B]

Neither must I passe over in silence Bedingfield neere adjoyning, which gave the name to a worshipfull and ancient Family, that received very much reputation and credit from the Heire of the Family of Tudenham. From thence by Flixton, in stead of Felixton, so named of Faelix the first Bishop of these parts; like as many other pla∣ces in this Shire, the River Waveney runneth downe to Bungey, and spreadeth it selfe in manner round about it; where Hugh Bigod fortified a Castle both by artificiall workmanship, and also by naturall situation, when as the seditious Barons tossed all England to and fro with stormes of rebellion. Concerning which Castle, as im∣pregnable, he was wont to vaunt in these termes: [ C]

Were I in my Castle of Bungey Upon the River of Waveney, I would ne care for the King of Cockeney.

Yet notwithstanding afterwards he obtained at the hands of King Henry the Se∣cond (by giving him a great summe of money and pledges withall of his loyalty) that it might not be overthrowne and rased. Not farre thence from the banke, you may see Mettingham; where, upon a plaine, Sir Iohn sirnamed De Norwich Lord of the place built a foure square Castle and a Colledge within it, whose daughter, and in the end the Heire of the same Family, Robert de Vfford aforesaid, Earle of Suffolke [ D] tooke to Wife with a goodly Inheritance.

Now Waveney drawing neerer unto the Sea whiles hee striveth in vaine to make himselfe a twofold issue into the Ocean, the one together with the River Yare, and the other by the meere Luthing, maketh a pretty big Demy Isle or Biland, which some name Lovingland, others more truely Luthingland, of Luthing the lake spreading in length and bredth, which beginning at the Ocean Shore is discharged into the Ri∣ver Yare. At the entrance whereof standeth upon the Sea, Lestoffe, a narrow and little Towne: and at the issue of it Gorlston, where I saw the towre steeple of a small sup∣pressed Friery, which standeth the Sailers in good stead for a marke. Within the land, hard by Yare is situate Somerley towne, the habitation in ancient time of Fitz Os∣bert, [ E] from whom it is come lineally to the worshipfull ancient family of the Iernegans Knights of high esteeme in these parts: farther up into the land where Yare and Wa∣veney meet in one streame, there flourished Cnobersburg, that is, as Bede interprereth it, Cnobers City, we call it at this day Burgh-Castle. Which, as Bede saith, was a most plea∣sant Castle, by reason of woods and Sea together, wherein a Monastery was built by Fursaey a holy Scot: by whose perswasion Sigebert King of the East-Angles became a Monke and resigned up his Kingdome: who afterwards being drawne against his will out of this Monastery to encourage his people in battaile against the Mercians, to∣gether with his company lost his life. In that place now there are only ruinous wals in forme, as it were, foure square, built of flint stone and British Bricke, but all overgrown [ F] with briers and bushes: among which otherwhiles are Romane peeces of coines got∣ten forth: So that it may seeme to have been one of those fortifications that the Ro∣mans placed upon the River Yare to represse the piracies of the Saxons: or rather that it was the ancient GARIANONUM it selfe, where the Stablesian Horsemen had their

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[ A] Station, and kepe Ward, at the declination of the Romane Empire in Brit∣taine.

Suffolke hath had Earles and Dukes out of sundry families. There bee of the later writers who report, that the Glanvils in times past were honoured with this title: But seeing they ground upon no certain authority, whereas men may easily mistake, and I have found nothing of them in the publike records of the Kingdome, they must pardon me if I beleeve them not, untill they produce more certainty. Yet in the meane while I confesse, that the family of the Glanvils in this tract was of right good note and high reputation. Neither have I hitherto learned by witnesses of credite, that any one was entituled Earle of this Province severally before the daies of King [ B] Edward the Third, who created Sir Robert Vfford Earle of Suffolke a man much renowned both in peace and warre, the sonne of Sir Robert Vfford Steward of the Kings house under King Edward the Second, by Cecily de Valoniis Lady of Orford. After him succeeded his sonne William, who having foure sonnes that were taken away by untimely death during his life, died himselfe suddenly in the Parliament house as he was about to report the minde of the Commonalty. And then Sir Robert Willoughby, Roger Lord Scales, and Henrie Ferrars of Groby the next of his blood and his Heires divided the Inheritance betweene them. Afterward King Richard the Second promoted Michael De-la-Pole to this Title, and made him L. Chancellor of England. Who, as Thomas Walsingham writeth, imployed himselfe more in trafficke and [ C] Merchandise, (as having beene a Merchant and a Merchants sonne) than in martiall matters. For he was the sonne of William De-la-pole, that first Maior of Kyngston upon Hull, and for his wealthy Estate, adorned by King Edward the Third with the dig∣nity of a Baneret. But when as in the prosperous confluence of so many advancements the mans nature was not capable of so great fortunes, he was enforced by his adver∣saries envy to depart out of his Country, and so died a banished man. His sonne Mi∣chael being restored, died at the siege of Harflew, and againe within one moneth his son Michael was slaine in the battell of Agincourt leaving daughters onely. Then Wil∣liam his brother succeeded, whom King Henry the sixt so favoured that hee made him also Earle of Penbroke, and then Marquesse of Suffolke, to him and the heires [ D] males of his body. And that both hee and the heires of his body should carry the golden rod having a Dove in the top thereof, on the Coronation day of the King of England: and the like rod or verge Yuory at the Coronation of the Queenes of England: And afterwards hee advanced the same William for his great service and deserts to the honour and title of Duke of Suffolke. Certes hee was an excellent man in those dayes, famous and of great worth. For whereas his father and three brethren had in the French wars lost their lives for their Country, he, as we finde in the Parliament Rols of the 28. of King Henry the Sixth, in the same war served full 34. yeeres: For seventeene yeeres together he never returned home from warfare; being once taken prisoner when he was as yet no better than a private Knight, hee paid downe for his ransome twenty [ E] thousand pounds of our English mony: hee was of the Kings privy Counsell 15. yeeres; and a Knight of the Order of the Garter 30. Hereupon, as he stood in espe∣ciall grace and favour with his Prince, so he incurred therefore the greater envy of the common people, and some emulatours: being grievously charged with treason and misprisions. And therefore called before the King and Lords of the Parliament, after he had answered the Articles objected, referred himselfe to the Kings order. Whereupon the Chancellor by the Kings commandement pronounced, that where∣as the Duke did not put himselfe upon his Peeres, the King touching the Articles of treason, would be doubtfull, and as for the Articles of misprision, not as a Judge by advice of the Lords, but as one to whose order the Duke had submitted himselfe, did [ F] banish him the realme and all other his dominions for five yeeres. But when he was embarked for France, he was by his adversaries intercepted upon the sea and behea∣ded. He left a son nam'd Iohn De-la-Pole, who wedded K. Edward the fourth his sister, and of her begate Iohn Earle of Lincolne by K. Richard the Third proclaimed heire apparant of the Crowne: whose ambitious minde puffed up and giddy therewith

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could not containe it selfe, but soone after brake out against King Henry the Sea∣venth, [ A] to his owne destruction (for in the battell at Stoke he was quickly slaine) to his fathers death also, (who for very griefe of heart ended his dayes) and to the ut∣ter ruine of the whole family, which together with them was in a sort extinguished and brought to nothing. For, his brother Edmund being Earle of Suffolke fled into Flanders: began there to conspire and stir up rebellion against King Henry the Sea∣venth, who, albeit he feared him, would seeme to favour him, and as a Prince better contented with repentance than punishment, freely pardoned him for sundry offen∣ces, that he might winne him. But after he was thus fled, his estate was forfeited, and the King never thought himselfe secure from his practises, untill he had so farre pre∣vailed with Philip Duke of Burgundy, that he was delivered into his hands (against [ B] the Law of hospitality toward strangers, as some then gave out) upon solemne pro∣mise in the word of a Prince that his life should be spared. Neverthelesse he was kept close prisoner, and after executed by King Henry the Eighth (who thought himselfe not tied to his fathers promise) what time as hee first minded to make warre upon France, for feare least in his absence some troubles might bee raised at home in his behalfe, yet his yonger brother S. Richard de la Pole a banished man in France, usurped the title of Duke of Suffolke: who being the last male (to my knowledge) of this house, was slaine in the battell of Pavie (wherein Francis the first, king of France was taken prisoner in the yeer of our Lord 1524.) fighting manfully among the thickest of his enemies. For whom, in consideration of his singular valour, and high paren∣tage [ C] the Duke of Burbon himselfe, although hee was his enemy, made a sumptuous funerall, and honored the same with his presence in mourning blacke. In the meane time, king Henry the Eighth adorned Sir Charles Brandon, unto whom he had given in marriage his owne sister Marie widdow, and Dowager to Lewis the twelfth king of France, with the title of Duke of Suffolke, and granted to him all the Honours, and Manours which Edmund Earle of Suffolke had forfeited. After whom succeeded Henry his sonne a childe, and after him his brother Charles: who both died of the English swet upon one day in the yeere 1551. Then king Edward the Sixth honou∣red with that title Henry Grey Marquesse Dorset, who had married Francis their sister: but he enjoying the same but a small time lost his head in Queene Maryes dayes for [ D] complotting to make his daughter queen, and was the last Duke of Suffolk. From that time lay this title of Suffolke void, untill that very lately king James advanced to that honour Thomas Lord Howard of Walden, the second sonne of Thomas Howard Duke of Norfolke, whom for his approved fidelity and vertue he also made his Lord Cham∣berlaine, in his first entrie into the kingdome.

[ E]

The Parishes in this County amount to the number of 575.

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NORFOLCIAE comitatus quem olī ICENI Insederunt. Centinens in Sc ovida Mercatoria. XXVI. Pagos et villas DCXXV na Cum Singulis hundredi t fluminibus in codem. An eri Christophere Saylon.

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[ A]

NORTH-FOLKE.

NORTH-FOLKE, commonly Norfolke, which is by interpre∣tation, people of the North, lieth Norward of Suffolke, from which it is divided by those two little Rivers which I spake of, Ouse the least, and Waveney, running divers wayes: on the East and North side the German Ocean which is plentifull of [ B] Fish beateth upon the shores with a mighty noise: On the West, the greater Ouse, a River disporting himselfe with his manifold branches and divisions secludeth it from Cam∣bridge-Shire. It is a Region large and spacious, and in manner all throughout a plaine champion, unlesse it bee where there rise gently some pretty Hills; passing rich, exceeding full of Sheepe, and stored with Conyes: replenished likewise with a great number of populous Villages: for, beside twenty seven Mercat townes, it is able to shew Villages and Country Townes 625: Watered with divers Rivers and Brookes, and not altogether destitute of Woods. The soyle, according to the [ C] variety of places, is of a divers nature: Some where, fat, ranke, and full of moisture, as in Mershland and Flegg: otherwhere, but Westward especially, leane, light, and sandy: elsewhere, standing upon clay and chalke. But the goodnesse of the ground a man may collect by this (whence Varro willeth us to gather it) that the Inhabitants are of a passing good complexion: to say nothing of their exceeding wily wits, and the same right quicke in the insight of our common lawes: in so much as it is counted, as well now, as in times past, the onely Country for best breed of Lawyers: so that even out of the meanest sort of the common people, there may be found not a few, who if there were nothing else to beare action, or able to fetch mat∣ter [ D] enough of wrangling controversies, even out of the very prickes, titles, and ac∣cents of the Law. But least, whiles I desire brevity, I become long by these digres∣sions which may distaste; I will turne my penne from the people to the places; and beginning at the South side, runne over briefly those which are more memorable, and of greater antiquity.

Upon the least Ouse, where Thet a small brooke breaking out of Suffolke, meeteth and runneth with him, in a low ground, was seated that ancient City SITOMAGUS which Antonine the Emperour maketh mention of, corruptly in the Fragments of an old Choragraphicall table called SIMOMAGUS and SINOMAGUS now Thet∣ford, [ E] in the Saxon language 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉 in which remaineth part of the former name with the addition of the English word Ford. For, like as Sitomagus in the Brittish tongue implieth a Citie by the river Sit, which now is Thet for Magus as Plinie shew∣eth, signified a City) so Thetford in English betokeneth the Ford of Thet; neither are these two names Sit and Thet much unlike in sound. There are in it at this day but few Inhabitants, although it be of a good bignesse; but in times past it was very po∣pulous; and beside other tokens of antiquity it hath still to bee seene a great Mount raised to a good height by mens hands; fensed with a double rampier, and as the re∣port goeth, fortified in ancient time with walles: which was a Romane worke as some thinke, or rather of the English Saxon Kings, as others would have it, under whom [ F] it flourished a long time. But after it was sacked, first by Suenus the Dane, who in a rage set it on fire in the yeere 1004; and sixe yeers after being spoyled againe by the furious Danes, it lost all the beauty and dignity that it had. For the recovery whereof, Bishop Arfast removed his Episcopall See from Elmham hither, and Bishop William his successor did all he could to adorne and set it out: so that, under King Edward the Confessour, there were counted in it 947. Burgesses, and in William the Conque∣rours time 720. Mansions: whereof 224. stood void, and the chiefe Magistrate was termed a Consul, which name may intimate that it was a Roman towne. But when

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Bishop Herbert (surnamed Losenga, for that he was composed of Leafing and Flattery) [ A] the third Prelate that by evill meanes and Simony climbed up to this Dignity, had removed his seat from hence to Norwich, it fell againe to decay, and as it were lan∣guished. Neither could it sufficiently bee comforted for the absence of the Bishop, by the Abbay of Cluniac Monkes, which by his meanes was built. This Abbay, Hugh Bigod built out of the ground: For so writeth he in the Instrument of the foundation. I Hugh Bigod Steward to King Henry, by his graunt and by the advise of Herbert Bishop of Norwich, have ordained Monkes of the Order of Cluny, in the Church of S. Mary which was the Episcopall seat of Thetford, which I gave unto them, and afterwards founded another more meete for their use, without the Towne. Howbeit even then, the greatest part of the [ B] Citty that stood on the hithermore Banke by little and little fell to the ground: the other part although it was much decayed, yet one or two Ages agoe flourished with seaven Churches, besides three small religious Houses, whereof the one was, by report erected in the memoriall of the Englishmen and Danes slaine here. For hard by as our Historians doe record, Edmund that most holy King a litle before his death fought Seaven houres and more with the Danes not without an horrible slaughter, and afterwards gave over the battaile on even hand; such was the alterna∣tive fortune of the Field, that it drave both sides past their senses.

By Waveney the other River of those twaine, that bound this Shire and runneth Eastward, not farre from the Spring head thereof, are seene Buckenham and Kening∣hall. [ C] This which may seeme to have the name left unto it of the Iceni, is the Seat of that most honourable Family of the Howards, whose glory is so great, that the envy of Bucchanan cannot empaire it. As for the other, so named, as I take it of Beech trees which the Saxons called Bucken; it is a faire and strong Castle, built by William de Aubigny the Norman, (unto whom the Conqueror had given the place) and by his heires that were successively Earles of Arundell, it descended to the Tatsalls, and from them by Caly and the Cliftons unto the family of the Knevets. These are of an ancient house and renowned ever since Sir Iohn Knevet was Lord Chancellour of England under King Edward the Third, and also honourably allied by great marriages. For [ D] over and beside these of Buckenham, from hence sprang those right worshipfull knights, Sir Thomas Knevet Lord Knevet, Sir Henry Knevet of Wiltshire, and Sir Thomas Kne∣vet of Ashellwell Thorpe and others. This Ashellwell Thorpe is a little Towne nere adjoy∣ning, which from the Thorpes in times past of Knights degree, by the Tilneis and the L. L. Bourchiers of Berners, is devolved at length hereditarily unto that Sir Thomas Knevet before named. As for that Buckenham, aforesaid, it is holden by this tenure and condition, that the Lords thereof should at the Coronation of the Kings of England be the Kings Butlers that day. Like as, (a thing that may beseeme the noting) in Charle∣ton a little neighbour village, Raulph de Carleton and some one other, held lands by [ E] this service, namely, To present an hundred Herring-Pies or Pasties, when Herrings first come in, unto their Soveraigne Lord the King, wheresoever he be in England.

But this river neare to his spring runneth by and by under Disce, now Dis, a prety towne well knowne; which King Henry the First gave frankely to Sir Richard Lucy, and hee straightwayes passed it over to Walter Fitz-Robert with his Daughter: of whose Posterity Robert Fitz-Walter obtained for this place the liberty of keeping Mercat, at the hands of King Edward the First. From thence, although Waveney bee on each side beset with Townes, yet there is not one amongst them that may boast of any Antiquity: unlesse it bee Harleston a good Mercate, and Shelton that standeth farther of, both which have given surnames to the ancient Families of the Sheltons [ F] and Harlestons: but before it commeth to the Sea, it coupleth it selfe with the river Yare, which the Britans called Guerne, the Englishmen Gerne, and Iere, of Alder trees, no doubt, so termed in British wherewith it is overshadowed. It ariseth out of the mids of this Countrie, not farre from Gernston a little Towne that tooke name there∣of, and hath hard by it Hengham, which had Lords, descended from Iohn Marescall (Nephew by the brother to William Marescall Earle of Penbroch) upon whom King John bestowed it with the Lands of Hugh de Gornay, a Traitour, and also with the

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[ A] daughter and coheire of Hubert de Rhia. From this Marescals it passed in revolution of time, unto the Lord Morleis, and from them by Lovell unto the Parkers, now Lords Morley. A little from hence is Sculton, otherwise called Burdos or Burdelois, which was held by this Tenure, That the Lord thereof on the Coronation day of the Kings of England, should be chiefe Lardiner. Joint-neighbour to Sculton is Wood-Rising the faire seate of the Family of Southwels, which received the greatest reputation and en∣crease from Sir Richard Southwell Privie Councellour to King Edward the Sixth; and his Brother Sir Robert Master of the Rowles.

More Eastward is to be seene Wimundham, now short, Windham, famous for the Al∣bineys Earles of Arundell, there enterred: whose Ancestor and Progenitor Willi∣am [ B] D' Albiney, Butler to King Henry the First founded the Priory, and gave it to the Abbay of Saint Albans for a Cell, which afterward was advanced to an Abbay. Upon the Steeple whereof, which is of a great height, William Ke one of the Cap∣taines of the Norfolke Rebels, in the yeare of our Lord 1549. was hanged on high. Neither would it bee passed over in silence, that five miles from hence stan∣deth Attilborrough, the seate of the Mortimers, an ancient Family, who being different from those of Wigmor, bare for their Armes, A Shield, Or, Semè de floures de Lyz Sables, and founded heere a Collegiat Church, where there is little now to bee seene. The Inheritance of these Mortimers hath by marriage long since accrued to the Ratcliffs, now Earles of Sussex, to the Family of Fitz-Ralph, and to Sir Ralph Bi∣got. [ C] But returne we now to the River.

The said Yare holdeth not his course farre into the East, before he taketh Wentsum a Riveret (others call it Wentfar) from the South, into his streame: upon which, neere unto the head thereof, there is a foure square Rampier at Taiesborrough, containing foure and twenty Acres. It may seeme to have beene a Campe place of the Ro∣mans, if it be not that which in an old Chorographicall Table or Map published by Marcus Welserus, is called AD TAUM. Somewhat higher, upon the same River, stood VENTA ICENORUM, the most flourishing City, (for a little one) in times past of all this people; but now having lost the old name, it is called Caster. And no mar∣vaile, that of the three VENTAE, Cities of Britain, this onely lost the name, see∣ing [ D] it hath quite lost it selfe. For, beside the ruines of the Walles, which containe within a square plot or quadrant, about thirty acres, and tokens appearing upon the ground where sometimes houses stood, and some few peeces of Romane money which are now and then there digged up, there is nothing at all remaining. But out of this ancient VENTA, in the succeeding ages, Norwich had her beginning, a∣bout three miles from hence, neere unto the confluents of Yare and another namelesse River (some call it Bariden) where they meet in one: which River with a long course running in and out by Fakenham, which King Henry the first gave to Hugh Capell, and King John afterward to the Earle of Arundell; and making many crooked reaches, speedeth it selfe this way by Attilbridge to Yare, and leaveth Horsford North from it: [ E] where a Castle of William Cheneys, who in the Raigne of Henry the Second, was one of the great Lords and chiefe Peeres of England, lieth overgrowne with bushes and brambles. This NORVVICH is a famous City, called in the English Saxon tongue 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, that is, a Northerly Creeke, if Wic among the Saxons signifieth the creeke or Cove of a River, as Rhenanus sheweth unto us: for, in this very place the River runneth downe amaine with a crooked and winding compasse: or, a Northerne Station, if Wic, as Hadrianus Iunius would have it, betokeneth a sure and secure station or place of a∣boad; where dwelling houses stand joyntly and close together: or a Northerly Castle, if Wic sound as much as Castle, as our Archbishop Alfrick the Saxon hath interpre∣ted it. But if I should with some others be of opinion that Norwich by a little tur∣ning [ F] is derived from Venta, what should I doe but turne awry from the very truth? For by no better right may it challenge unto it selfe the name of Venta, than either Ba∣sil in Germany, the name of AUGUSTA, or Baldach of BABYLON. For, like as Baldach had the beginning of Babylons fall; and Basil sprang from the ruine of Augusta: even so our Norwich appeared and shewed it selfe, though it were late, out of that ancient

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VENTA, which, the British name thereof Caer Guntum in Authours, doth prove: [ A] wherein, like as in the River Wentsum or Wentfar the name of Venta doth most plaine∣ly discover it selfe. For, this name Norwich wee cannot reade of any where in our Chronicles before the Danish warres.

So farre is it off, that either Caesar or Guiteline the Britain built it, as they write who are more hasty to beleeve all than to weigh matters with sound judgement. But now, verily, by reason of the wealth, the number of Inhabitants, and resort of people, the faire buildings, and faire Churches, and those so many, (for it contai∣neth about thirty Parishes) the painefull industry of the Citizens, their loyalty towards their Prince, and their courtesie unto strangers, it is worthily to bee ran∣ged with the most celebrate Cities of Britaine. It is right pleasantly situate on the [ B] side of an Hill two and fifty Degrees and forty Scrupuls from the Aequator, and foure and twenty Degrees and five and fifty Scrupuls in Longitude. The forme is somewhat long: lying out in length from South to North a mile and an halfe: but carrying in breadth, about halfe so much, drawing it selfe in by little and little at the South end in manner, as it were, of a cone or sharpe point. Compassed it is about with strong walles (in which are orderly placed many Turrets, and twelve gates) un∣lesse it bee on the East-side; where the River (after it hath with many windings in and out watered the North part of the City, having foure Bridges for men to passe to and fro over it) is a Fence thereto, with his deepe Chanell there, and high steepe bankes. In the very infancy, as I may so say, of this City, when Etheldred a wit∣lesse [ C] and unadvised Prince raigned, Sueno or Swan the Dane who ranged at his pleasure through England with a great rable of spoiling Ravenours, first put it to the sacke, and afterwards set it on fire. Yet it revived againe, and as wee reade in that Domesday booke wherein William the Conquerour tooke the review of all England, there were by account in King Edward the Confessours time, no fewer than one thou∣sand three hundred and twenty Burgesses in it. At which time (that I may speake out of the same Booke) It paid unto the King twenty pounds and to the Earle ten pounds: and beside all this twenty shillings, and foure Prebendaries, and sixe Sextars of Hony; also a Beare and sixe Dogges for to bait the Beare: but now it paieth seventy pounds by weight to the King, and an hundred shillings for a Gersume to the Queene, and an ambling Palfrey: [ D] also twenty pounds Blanc to the Earle, and twenty shillings for a Gersume by tale. But while the said King William raigned, that flaming fire of fatall sedition, which Raulph Earle of East England had kindled against the King, settled it selfe heere. For, when hee had saved himselfe by flight, his wife together with the French Britons endu∣red in this place a most grievous Siege even to extreme famine: yet at length dri∣ven she was to this hard pinch that she fled the land, and this City was so empaired, that scarce 560. Burgesses were left in it, as we reade in that Domesday booke. Of this yeelding up of the City Lanfrank Archbishop of Canterbury maketh mention in his Epistle to King William, in these words. Your Kingdome is purged of these villanous and filthy Britons, The Castle of Norwich is rendred up into your hands. And the Britons [ E] who were therein and had lands in England, having life and limme granted unto them, are sworne within forty dayes to depart out of your Realme, and not enter any more into it without your leave and licence. From that time beganne it againe to recover it selfe by little and little out of this diluge of calamities, and Bishop Herbert, whose good name was cracked for his foule Simony, translated the Episcopall See from Thetford hi∣ther, and built up a very faire Cathedral Church on the East side and lower part of the City, in a certaine place then called Cow-holme, neere unto the Castle. The first stone whereof in the Raigne of King William Rufus, and in the yeare after Christs Nativity 1096. himselfe laid, with this inscription.

[ F]
DOMINUS HERBERTUS POSUIT PRIMUM LAPIDEM IN NOMINE PATRIS, FILII, ET SPIRITUS SANCTI. AMEN.

That is.

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[ A] LORD [BISHOP] HERBERT LAID THE FIRST STONE IN THE NAME OF THE FATHER, THE SONNE, AND HOLY GHOST, AMEN.

Afterwards, he procured of Pope Paschal that it should be established, and confir∣med for the Mother Church of Norfolke and Suffolke: he endowed it bountifully with as much lands, as might sufficiently maintaine threescore Monkes, who had there faire and spacious Cloysters. But after that they were thrust out by King Henry the Eight, there were substituted for them a Deane, sixe Prebendaries and others. The Church being thus built and an Episcopall See there placed, the Towne now (as [ B] saith William of Malmesbury) became of great name for frequent trade of Merchants and resort of people. And in the 17. yeare of King Stephen, as we reade in old Annals, Norwich was founded a new, became a well peopled City, and was made a Corporation. And most certaine it is out of the kings Records, that king Stephen granted it unto his sonne William for his Appennage, as they terme it, or inheritance. Out of whose hands King Henry the Second shortly after wrested it by composition and kept it for him∣selfe: And albeit his Sonne Henry, called the younger King, when he aspired ambi∣tiously to the kingdome, had made a large promise thereof unto Hugh Bigod Earle of Norfolke whom hee had drawne to side with him. At which time Bigod taking part with the young King, who could not containe his hope of the Kingdome within [ C] the bounds of duty and equity, most grievously afflicted and oppressed this City: and then as it is thought reedified that Castle standing within the very City upon an high hill neere unto the Cathedrall Church, which being compassed with a ditch of a wonderfull depth seemed in those daies impregnable. Which notwithstanding, Lewis the French-man, with whom the seditious Barons of England combined against King John, won it easily by Siege. Now, that Bigod reedified this Castle I verily be∣leeve, because I have seen Lions Saliant engraven there in a Stone after the same forme that the Bigods used in times past in their Seales: of whom also there was one that in his Seale used a Crosse. These things fell out in the first age (we may say) of Norwich.

But in the age next ensuing, it encreased mightily and flourished, by reason that the [ D] Citizens grew to be passing wealthy, who exhibited a supplication in the Parliament house unto King Edward the First, that they might be permitted to wall their City about, which they afterwards performed to the exceeding great strengthning and honor thereof. They obtained moreover of King Richard the Second, that the Wor∣sted made there might be transported: and in the yeare 1403. king Henry the fourth granted that they might choose every yeare a Major in stead of their Bailiffes, which before were the principall Magistrates. They built likewise a passing faire Towne-house in the very middest of the City neere unto the Mercat-place, which on certaine set dayes is furnished exceeding well with all things necessary for mans life. And verily much beholden it is unto the Netherlanders, that being weary of Duke de [ E] Alba his cruelty, and hating the bloudy Inquisition, repaired hither in great numbers and first brought in the making and trade of saies, baies, and other stuffes now much in use. But why should I stand long upon these things, when as Alexander Nevill a Gentleman well borne and very learned hath notably described all these matters, to∣gether with the story of their Bishops, the orderly succession of their Magistrates, and the furious outrage of that most villanous Rebell Ke against this City? This only will I adde, that in the yeare 1583. the Citizens conveighed water out of the River through pipes by an artificiall Instrument or water-forcer up into the highest places of the City. Heere I may justly commence an action both against Polydor Virgill an Italian, and also against Angelus Capellus a Frenchman, and put them to their answer [ F] before the Tribunal of venerable Antiquity, why they have avouched that the anci∣ent ORDOVICES, who be seated, as it were in another world, inhabited this Norwich. I would have the same mery action also against our Country man D. Caius, but that I know for certaine that the good old man, right learned though he were, was blinded in this point with the naturall love of this his own native Country. Neither have I

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more to say of Norwich unlesse it may please you to runne over these Verses of [ A] Master Iohn Ionston a Scottish-Britan written of the same.

Vrbs speciosa situ, nitidis pulcherrima tectis, Grata peregrinis, delitiosa suis. Bellorum sedes, trepido turbante tumultu, Tristia Neustriaco sub duce damna tulit. Victis dissidijs, postquam caput ardua coelo Extulit, immensis crevit opima opibus. Cultus vincit opes, & cultum gratia rerum, Quam benè? si luxus non comitetur opes. Omnia sic adeò sola haec sibi sufficit, ut si [ B] Fors regno desit, haec caput esse queat. A City seated daintily, most faire built she is knowne, Pleasing and kinde to Strangers all, delightfull to her owne. The seat of warre whiles civill sturs and tumults yet remain'd, In William the Normans dayes, she grievous losse sustain'd, These broiles and jarres once past, when as her head aloft againe She bare, in richnesse infinite and wealth she grew amaine. Her Port exceeds that wealth, and things all superfine, this Port How happy were it, if excesse with such wealth did not sort. So all sufficient in her selfe, and so complete is shee, [ C] That if neede were, of all the Realme the Mistresse shee might bee.

From Norwich, the River Yare having entertained other beackes and brookes as guests, yet all under his owne name, passeth on still with many winding crookes ve∣ry full of the fishes called Ruffes, which name because in English it soundeth like to Rough, D. Caius named it aptly in Latine Aspredo, that is, Rough. For, it is all the body over, rough and hath very sharpe and pricky finnes: it delighteth in sandy pla∣ces; for shape and bignesse like unto a Perch; in colour browne and duskish above, but palish yellow beneath: marked by the chawes with a double course of half-cir∣cles: the eye for the upper halfe of it of a darke browne, for the nether somewhat yel∣lowish like delayed gold, the ball and sight thereof blacke. This speciall marke by it [ D] selfe it hath, that there is a line goeth along the backe, and fastened to the body (as it were) with an overthwart thred, all to bespotted ouer the taile and fins with blacke speckes: which finnes when the fish is angry stand up and bristle stiffe and strong: but when the anger is allayed they fall flat againe. The meat of this Ruffe resembleth that of the Perch, much commended for holsomnesse; and for eating tender and short.

When Yre is gone past Claxton, where there stands a Castlet built round, which Sir Thomas Gawdy knight Justice of the Common Pleas of late repaired, it receiveth a brooke which passeth by nothing memorable but Halles-hall, and that only memorable for his ancient Owner Sir Iames Hobart Atturney Generall and of the Privie Counsell to King Henry the Seventh (by him dubbed Knight at such time as he created Henry [ E] his sonne Prince of Wales) who by building from the ground the faire Church at Lod∣don being his Parish Church, Saint Olaves bridge over Waveney that divideth Nor∣folke and Suffolke, the cawsey thereby, and other works of piety, deserved well of the Church, his Country, and the Common-weale, and planted three houses of his owne Issue, out of the second whereof Sir Henry Hobart his great Grandchilde now likewise Atturney Generall to King Iames is lineally descended. Now Yare approching neerer to the Sea, runneth downe Southward, that so it may shed it selfe more gently into the salt sea waves, and thereby maketh a little languet of land like a tongue thrust out, which it selfe of one side watereth, and the Sea on the other beateth upon. On this languet I saw standing in a most open plaine shore, Yarmouth, in the English-Sax∣on [ F] 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, and 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, that is, Yares-mouth, a very convenient Haven, and as faire a Towne, beautifully built and passing well fensed both by the naturall strength of the place and also by the skilfull industry of mans Art. For although it bee enviro∣ned almost round with Water, on the West side with the River which hath a Draw Bridge over it, and from other Partes with the Ocean, unlesse it bee

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[ A] Northward where there is firme land: yet is it in most sightly manner enclosed with a good strong wall, which together with the River make a square forme of foure sides, but somewhat long: upon which wall, beside Towres, there is cast a mount toward the East, from whence the great Peeces of Ordnance use to thunder and flash all about into the Sea under it, which is scarce 60. paces off. It hath indeed but one Church, yet the same is very large, having a passing high spire steeple to adorne it, built by Herbert Bishop of Norwich hard by the North gate: under which are to be seene the foundations brought above ground of a goodly peece of worke to enlarge the same. That this was that old Towne GARIANONUM, where, in times past, the Stablesian Horsemen kept their standing watch and ward against the barbarous ene∣mies, [ B] I dare not affirme; neither doe I thinke that Garianonum was where Caster is now (in times past the faire seat of Sir Iohn Fastolfe, a most martiall knight, and now appertaining to the Pastons) albeit it is much celebrated among the Inhabitants for the antiquity thereof, and the fame goeth that the River Yare had another mouth or passage into the Sea under it.

But, as I am perswaded that GARIANONUM stood at Burgh-castle in Suffolke, which is on the other banke about two miles off, so I am easily induced to thinke, that both Yarmouth arose out of the ruines thereof, and also that the said Caster was one of the Roman Forts, placed also upon the mouth of Yare, that now is stopped up. For, like as the North Westerne Winde doth play the Tyrant upon Holland [ C] over against it, and by drift of Shelves and Sand-heapes hath choked the mid∣dest of the Rhene-mouthes: even so the North-East Winde afflicteth and annoi∣eth this Coast, and driveth the sand on heapes, so as it may seeme to have dammed up this mouth also.

Neither will it be prejudiciall to the Truth, if I should name our Yarmouth, GARI∣ANONUM, being so neere adjoyning as it is, unto the old Garianonum: considering that Gorienis the River, whence it tooke the name, having now changed his chanell, en∣treth into the maine Sea a little beneath this Towne, which it hath also given name unto: For, I must needs confesse, that this our Yarmouth is of later memory. For, when that ancient Garianonum aforesaid was decayed, and there was no Garrison to [ D] defend the Shore, Cerdick a warlike Saxon landed here (whereupon the Inhabitants at this day call the place Cerdick-sand, and the Writers of Histories, Cerdick-shore) and after hee had made sore war upon the Iceni, tooke Sea and sailed from hence into the West parts, where he erected the Kingdome of the West Saxons. And not long af∣ter, the Saxons in stead of Garianonum, founded a new Towne in that moist and wate∣rish ground, neer the West side of the River and named it Yarmouth: But finding the Situation thereof not to be healthfull, they betooke themselves to the other side of the River called then of the same Cerdicke, Cerdick-sand, and built this new Towne, in which there flourished in King Edward the Confessour his daies 70. Burgesses, as wee finde recorded in the Notitia of England. After this, about the yeare of our [ E] Redemption 1340. the Townesmen strengthned it with a wall, and in short space it grew so rich and puissant, that oftentimes in seafights they set upon their neighbors of Lestoffe, yea and the Portmen, for so termed they the Inhabitants of the Cinque Ports, not without much bloud shed on both sides. For they were most spitefully bent against them, haply for being excluded out of the number of the Cinque Ports, and deprived of these priviledges which old Garianonum or Yarmouth, and their Ancestours, enjoyed under the Comes of the Saxon Shore in elder times. But this their stoutnesse was repressed at length and taken downe by the Kings Au∣thority: or as some thinke, their lusty courage became abated by that most grievous and lamentable plague, which in one yeare, within this one little Towne brought [ F] 7000. to their graves. The which is witnessed by an ancient Latine Chronographicall Table hanging up in the Church, wherein are set downe also their warres with the Portmen and Lestoffians aforesaid.

Since that time, their hearts have not beene so haughty, nor their wealth so great, to make them bold: howbeit painfully they follow the trade of Merchandise,

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and taking of Herrings (which the learned thinke to bee Chalcides and Leucomae∣wides) [ A] a kinde of fish more plentifull heere than in any other Coast of the world a∣gaine. For, it may seeme incredible how great a Faire, and with what resort of people, is holden heere at the Feast of Saint Michael, and what store of Herrings and other fish is then bought and sold. At which time, they of the Cinque Ports abovesaid by an old order and custome, appoint their Bailiffs, Commissioners, and send them hither, who, that I may speake out of their owne Patent or Commission, together with the Magistrates of this Towne, during the time of the free Faire, hold a Court, for matters concerning the Faire, doe execute the Kings Iustice, and keepe the Kings peace. As for the Haven below the Towne, it is very commodious both for the inhabitants, and for Norwich-men also: but for feare that it should be barred and stop∣ped [ B] up, they wrestle as it were, to their great cost and charges, with the maine Sea: which to make them amends and to restore what it hath eaten and swallowed up elsewhere in this Shore, hath by heaping of earth and sand together, cast up here of late a prety Island.

At this mouth also, another River, which some call Thyrn sheddeth it selfe toge∣ther with Yare into the sea: This River springing up neere unto Holt a towne so called of an Holt or tuft of trees, and for the Mercat well knowne, running about five miles distant from Yare, holdeth on a joynt course a great way and keepeth pace with him, by Blickling, now the seat of the ancient Family of Clere who in former times dwelt at Ormesby; and by Ailesham a Mercat Towne of good resort, where the Earle of [ C] Athole in Scotland had lands not farre from Worsted, whereas I reade, the Stuffe Worsted, in so great request amongst our Ancestours, was first made; and hence so named, as Dornicks, Cameric, Calecut, &c. had in like manner their denomination from the places where they were first invented, and made. Then passeth Thyrn nere the decayed great Abbay called Saint Benet in the Holme: which Knut the Dane built, and the Monkes afterward so strengthned with most strong wals and bulwarks, that it seemed rather a Castle than a Cloister. In so much, that William the Con∣querour could not winne it by assault, untill a Monke betraied it into his hands upon this condition, that himselfe might bee made Abbot thereof. Which was done ac∣cordingly: but forthwith, this new Abbot for being a Traitour, (as the Inhabitants [ D] make report) was hanged up by the Kings commandement, and so justly punished for this treason. But the ground in this Island or Holme is so fenny and rotten, that if a man cut up the strings and rootes of trees, and shrubs there growing, it floteth a∣loft on the water, and is ready to follow one whither he will have it. And some there be who thinke, by the Perwinkles and Cocles that other while are digged up there; that the Sea had broken in thither. From thence runneth this River downe by Lud∣ham, an house of the Bishops of Norwich, and by Clipsby, which gave name to a Fami∣ly of ancient note in his Tract, and straightway uniteth his owne streame with the Yare. From the mouth of Yare the shore goeth directly (as it were) North, to Winterton a point or cape very well knowne to Sailers, which tooke that name, I suppose, of the [ E] cold and winterly Situation. For, it lieth full upon the Ocean, the father of windes and cold, who with exceeding violence rusheth against the bankes and piles that are opposed against him. Howbeit, the Country adjoyning round about, in many mens opinion hath the fattest Soile and softest mould of any country in all England, as which asketh least labour, and yeeldeth most fruit. For, with a silly jade, (as Plinie wri∣teth of Bizacium in Africke) and a poore old woman at one side of the yoake draw∣ing the plough, it is easily broken up, and eared. From Winterton immediately the shore turning Westward, the sea retireth, without any bearing out in manner at all, along a flat and low coast, as farre as to Eccles, which is almost overflowed and drowned with the Ocean. From thence it carrieth an higher shore, by Bronholme sometime a Priory [ F] founded and enriched by G. Glanvill, and seated upon the sharpe top of an hill, the Crosse whereof our ancestours had in holy reverence, I know not for what miracles. Next it is Paston a small townlet which yet hath given sirname to a Family growne great, both in Estate and alliance, since they matched with an Heiresse of Beary

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[ A] and Maultbye. Not far hence is Gimmingham, which with other Manors, John Earle of Warren and Surrie gave in times past to Thomas Earle of Lancaster, and by Cro∣mer where the neighbour Inhabitants with great expense went about to make an Havenet, but to small purpose, the Ocean so furiously played the Tyrant and made resistance. Thence the Shore runneth forth to Wauburne-hope; a Creeke fortified in our time, so called of Wauburne a little Towne, unto which by the intercession of Oliver de Burdeaux, King Edward the Second granted the Liberty of keeping a Mercat: Next unto it is Clay, and over against it with a little River running be∣tweene, Blackney, our Country man Bale calleth it Nigeria, a famous House of Carmelite Friers in this late age afore going, built by Sir Robert de Roos, Sir Ro∣bert [ B] Bacon, and John Bret: out of which came John Baconthorp, so named of the place of his nativity, (which now is the habitation of the Heidons, an ancient Race of Knights degree) A man in that age of such variety and depth withall of excellent learning, that hee was had in exceeding great admiration among the Italians, and commonly called The Resolute Doctor. Whence it is, that Paulus Pansa thus wri∣teth of him. If thy minde stand to enter into the secret power of the Almighty and most mercifull God, no man hath written of his Essence more exactly. If any man desireth to learne the causes of things, or the effects of Nature; if hee wish to know the sundry motions of Heaven, and the contrary qualities of the Elements, this man offereth himselfe as a store-house to furnish him: The Armour of Christian Religion, of better proofe and defence than [ C] those of Vulcans making against the Iewes, this resolute Doctour alone hath delivered, &c. When you are past Wauburne, the Coast lieth more low and flat, as farre as to Saint Edmunds Point, cut through and distinguished with many a rillet, and hardly defen∣ded from the injury of the Sea by heapes of sand which they use to call Meales, opposed against it.

More within the Country is Walsingham scarce foure miles from hence: where∣upon it is that of the vicinity unto the Sea Erasmus calleth it Parathalassia. Very famous now is this Village by reason of the best Saffron growing there: but of late time as much renowned through all England for a Pilgrimage to our Ladie the Vir∣gin Mary: whom hee who had not in that former Age visited and presented with [ D] offerings, was reputed irreligious. But this shall Erasmus an eye-witnesse describe in his owne very words. Not farre from the Sea, (saith hee) about foure miles, there stan∣deth a Towne living almost of nothing else but upon the resort of Pilgrimes. There is a Col∣ledge of Chanons, yet such, as unto whom the Latinists have given the addition of Regulares, a middle kinde betwixt Monkes and those Chanons whom they terme Secular: This Colledge hath scarce any other Revenewes than from the liberality of the said Virgin. For certaine of the greater Presents and Oblations are layed up and preserved. But if there be any money offe∣red or ought else, of small value, that goeth unto the maintenance of the Covent, and their Head or President, whom they call Prior. The Church is faire and neat; yet in it the Vir∣gin dwelleth not: that honour forsooth, shee hath done unto her Sonne: shee hath her Church [ E] by her selfe, but so, as that shee may bee on the right hand of her Sonne. Neither doth shee dwell heere for all this, for why, the Building is not yet finished, and the place hath a through light and ayre on all sides, with open doores and wide open windowes; the Ocean Sea withall, the father and foster of windes is hard by. In that Church, which I said was unfinished, there is a small Chappell, but all of wood, whereinto on either side at a narrow and little Doore are such admitted as come with their Devotions and Offerings. Small light there is in it, and none other in manner but by tapers or wax-candles, yeelding a most dainty and pleasant smell. Nay if you looke into it, you would say it were the Habitation of heavenly Saints in∣deed, so bright shining it is all over with pretious Stones, with Gold and Silver. But with∣in the memory of our fathers, when King Henry the Eighth had set his minde and [ F] eye both, upon the Riches and Possessions of Churches, all this vanished quite a∣way. Touching Walsingham, I have nothing else to say more, but that the Family of the Walsinghams, Knights (as they will have it that curiously search after Ge∣nealogies) fetched first their name and Originall from hence: Out of which house flourished that Sir Francis Walsingham, Secretary unto Queene Elizabeth, a man

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as of deepe insight, so also of as rare and painfull industry in the weightiest affaires [ A] of the Realme. But hard by it at Houghton, flourished sometime the noble Family of the Neirfords, who by matching in marriage with Parnel de Vallibus (who had about Holt, Cley, and elsewhere a goodly Inheritance) was greatly enriched. But now let us looke backe againe to the Shore.

Neere unto Walsingham Westward, upon the Sea side, was that ancient Towne BRANNODUNUM, where when the Saxons first molested Britaine with their In∣vasions, The Dalmatian Horsemen lay in Garrison under the Lieutenant of the Saxon Shore. But now it is a country Village, reteining nought but the remaines of that name, and shewing a Trench and Rampire (the neighbour Inhabitants call it the Castle) that containeth within it a plot of ground much about eight Acres, and is [ B] named Brancaster, where peeces of Romane money are many times gotten out of the earth. Very commodiously was there a Garrison planted in this place: for at S. Edmunds Chappell neere adjoyning, and Hunstanton, built by that holy King Saint Edmund, the coast draweth backe into the South, and so admitteth a larger creeke for the Sea to enter into, lying open for Pirats, into which many Rivers also doe void them∣selves. As for Hunstanton, it is to be remembred in this regard, if there were nothing else, for that it hath beene the Habitation of the Family of Le Strange, Knights by degree, ever since that in the Raigne of Edward the Second, Iohn Baron Le Strange of Knockin, gave the same unto Hamon his younger Brother.

The catching of Hawkes, and the plentifull fishing, the Ieat and Amber also found [ C] oftentimes in this Shore I wittingly omit, seeing that there is great store of these things else where along this Tract. Yet Sharnborn in this Coast is not to be omitted both for that Foelix the Burgundian who brought these East Englishmen to the Chri∣stian Faith and state of perpetuall Felicity, built in this place the second Church of Christians in this Country (for the first, he founded at Babingley where he landed) as also because it is verily thought and that by the faithfull testimony of old deeds and evidences, that an old Englishman Lord of this place before the comming of the Normans, by vertue of sentence given judicially in open Court by William Conque∣rour himselfe, recovered this Lordship against Warren, unto whom the Conquerour had given it. Which argument they enforce hard, who would prove that the said [ D] William entred upon the Possession of England by Covenant and agreement, and not by right of warre and Conquest.

The foresaid Creeke or Bay, our Country men call the Washes, Ptolomee termed it AESTUARIUM METARIS, haply for Malthraith, by which name the Britains cal∣led the like Frithes and Armes of the Sea in other places: neither doth it signifie a∣mong them any other thing than an Arme of the Sea uncertainly changing the chanell such as this is: Upon this, where the River Ouse striveth forcibly against the Ocean, standeth Linne, peradventure so named of the waters broad spreading; For that doth Lhyn import in the British tongue. A large Towne this is, encompassed with a deepe trench and wals for the most part thereof, divided by two small Rivers [ E] that have fifteene bridges or thereabout over them: and although it be of no great an∣tiquity and not long since called Linnum Episcopi, that is, Bishops Linne, because it ap∣pertained to the Bishops of Norwich, untill King Henry the Eighth his daies, for it had beginning out of the ruines of an elder Towne which stood over against it in Marshland, and is at this day called Old Linne and Linnum Regis, that is, Kings Linne; yet by reason of the safe Haven which yeeldeth most easie accesse, for the number al∣so of Merchants there dwelling, and thither resorting, for the faire and the goodly houses, the wealth also of the townesmen, it is doubtlesse the principall towne of this Shire except Norwich onely. It hath likewise most large franchises and immunities, which the Inhabitants bought with their owne bloud of King John, whiles they tooke [ F] part with him and defended his quarrell, who ordained there a Major, and delivered unto them his owne sword to be carried before him, yea and gave unto them a silver cup all gilt▪ which they still doe keep. These their liberties being afterwards lost, they redeemed not without bloud also, of King Henry the Third, when siding with him

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[ A] and serving under his Banner, they fought an unfortunate battaile against the out∣lawed Lords in the Isle of Ely, as the booke of Ely and Mathew Paris doe both joyntly witnesse.

Over against Linne, on the farther side of the River lieth Mershland, a little moist mersh country, as the name implieth, divided and parted every where with ditches, trenches and furrowes to draine and draw the waters away: a soile standing upon a very rich and fertile mould, and breeding abundance of cattell: in so much as that in a place commonly called Tilneysmeth there feed much about 30000. sheepe: but so subject to the beating, and overflowing of the roaring maine Sea, which very often breaketh, teareth, and troubleth it so grievously, that hardly it can be holden [ B] off with chargeable wals and workes. The places of greater note in this Mersh∣land, are these: Walpole, which the Lord of the place gave in times past unto the Church of Ely together with his sonne, whom he had made a Monke there: Wigen∣hall, the possession of I. Howard in the Raigne of Edward the First, whose Posterity spred, and became a most honorable and noble Family, whereof I have already spo∣ken: Tilney, whence in old time the stocke of the Tilneys, Knights, tooke name; and Saint Maries the seat of the ancient race of the Carvils.

Now have we passed along all the Sea-coast. As for the inner part of the Country, there are also very many Townes toward the West side, but because they bee of later memory, I will briefly runne them over. Neere to Linne upon an high hill standeth [ C] Rising-castle, almost marchable to the Castle of Norwich; the seat in times past of the Albineys; afterwards of Robert de Monthault, by one of the sisters and coheires of Hugh Albiney Earle of Arundell; and at last the mansion place of the Mowbrays: who, as I have learned, came out of the same house that the Albineys did. But now, after long languishings, as it were, by reason of old age, the said Castle hath given up the ghost. Below it is Castle-acre, where was sometimes the habitation of the Earles of Warren, in a Castle now halfe downe, on a little Rivers side: which carrying no name, ariseth not farre from Godwicke a lucky good name, where there stands a small house, but greatly graced by the Lord thereof, Sir Edward Coke Knight, a man of rare endowments of nature, and as in the Common lawes much practised, so of deepe in∣sight [ D] therein, which all England both tooke knowledge of whiles hee discharged the function of Atturney Generall many yeares most learnedly, and now acknow∣ledgeth whiles being Lord Chiefe Justice of the Common Pleas, he administreth ju∣stice as uprightly and judiciously. Neither is he lesse to be remembred, for that he loveth learning, and hath well deserved of the present and succeeding ages by his learned labours.

This Riveret or brooke with a small streame and shallow water runneth Westward to Linne, by Neirford, that gave name to the Family of the Neirfords famous in times past, and by Neirborrough: where neere unto the house of the Spilmans, knights, upon a very high hill is to be seene a warlike Fort of passing great strength and of ancient [ E] worke, so situated, as it hath a very faire prospect into the Country about it. After, upon the said Brooke is seated Penteney, a prety Abbay, the ordinary buriall place in ancient time of the Noblemen and Gentlemen in this Tract.

Neere unto it lieth Wormegay, commonly Wrongey, which Reginald de Warren bro∣ther of William de Warren the second Earle of Surry had with his wife, of whom as I have read, the said Earle had the donation or Maritagium (as they use to speake in the law phrase) and by his sonnes daughter streightwayes it was transferred to the Bar∣dolphs, who being Barons of great nobility, flourished a long time in honorable state, and bare for their Armes Three Cinque-foiles or in a Shield Azr, The greatest part of whose Inheritance together with the Title came to Sir William Phellips, and by his [ F] daughter passed away to the Vicount Beaumont. More Eastward are seated, Swaffham a Mercat Towne of good note, sometime the Possession of the Earle of Richmond: Ashele Manour, by Tenure whereof the Hastings and Greies Lords of Ruthin had the charge of table clothes and linnen used at the solemne Coronation of the Kings of England: North Elmham, the Bishops See for a good time, when as this Province

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was divided into two Dioceses: Dereham, wherein Withburga King Annas daugh∣ter [ A] was buried: whom because shee was piously affected, farre from all riotous ex∣cesse, and wanton lightnesse, our Ancestours accounted for a Saint. Next unto which is Greshenhall, and adjoyning thereto Elsing, the possessions in ancient time of the Folliots, men of great worth and Dignity, which in right of dowry came by a daughter of Richard Folliot to Sir Hugh de Hastings, descended out of the Family of Abergevenny: and at length by the daughters and heires of Hastings the last, Greshenhall aforesaid fell unto Sir Hamon le Strange of Hunstanton, and Elsing unto William Browne the brother of Sir Antonie Browne the first Vicount Mount-acute. In this quarter also is Ick-borrough, which Talbot supposeth to have beene that ICIANI, whereof Antonine speaketh. Neither have I cause to write any more of these pla∣ces. [ B] And now I thinke it is good time to set downe the Earles and Dukes of North∣folke, that I may proceed to Cambridgeshire.

William the Conquerour made one Raulph Governour of East-England, that is to say, of Norfolke, Suffolke, and Cambridgeshire, who forthwith gaping as I said, after an alteration and change in the State, was dispossessed of that place. After certaine yeares, in the Raigne of Stephen, Hugh Bigod was Earle of Norfolke: For, when peace was concluded betweene Stephen and Henry Duke of Anjou, who became after∣wards King Henry the second, by expresse words it was provided, that William King Stephens sonne should have the whole Earledome of Norfolke, excepting among o∣ther things, The third peny of that County, whereof Hugh Bigod was Earle. Whom [ C] notwithstanding King Henry the Second created Earle againe, of the third peny of Norfolke and Norwich. Who dying about the 27. yeare of Henry the Second, Roger his sonne succeeded, who, for what cause I know not, obtained at the hands of King Richard the first a new Charter of his creation: Him succeeded his sonne Hugh, who tooke to his wife Mawde the eldest daughter and one of the heires of William Mares∣call Earle of Pembroch. By whom he had issue one sonne named Roger, Earle of Nor∣folke and Marescall of England, who at Tournament having his bones put out of joint, died without issue: and another, called Hugh Bigod Lord chiefe Justice of Eng∣land slaine in the battaile of Lewis: whose sonne Roger succeeded his Uncle in the Earldome of Norfolke and dignity of Marescall: but having incurred through his in∣solent [ D] contumacy the high displeasure of King Edward the First, was compelled to passe away his honors and well neere his whole inheritance into the Kings hands to the use of Thomas of Brtherton the Kings son, whom he had begotten of his second wife Margaret sister to Philip the Faire, King of France. For thus reporteth the Hi∣story, out of the Library of Saint Austens in Canterbury. In the yeare 1301. Roger Bigod Earle of Norfolke ordained King Edward to bee his heire: and hee delivered into his hands the rod of the Marshals Office with this condition, that if his wife brought him any chil∣dren, he should without all contradiction receive againe all from the King and hold it peacea∣bly as before: and the King gave unto him a 1000. pounds in money, and a thousand pound land during his life, together with the Marshalship, and the Earldome. But when he was [ E] departed this life without issue, King Edward the Second, honoured the said Tho∣mas of Brotherton his brother, according to the conveiance aforesaid, with the Ti∣tles of Marshall and Earle of Norfolke. Whose daughter Margaret called Marshallesse and Countesse of Norfolke wife to Iohn Lord Segrave, king Richard the Second cre∣ated in her absence Dutchesse of Norfolke for terme of life: and the same day crea∣ted Thomas Mowbray the daughters sonne of the said Margaret, then Earle of Noting∣ham, the first Duke of Norfolke, To him and his heires males; unto whom he had like∣wise granted before the State and stile of Earle Marshall of England.

This is hee, that before the king was challenged and accused by Henry of Lan∣caster Duke of Hereford, for uttering inconsiderately certaine reprochfull, and dero∣gatory [ F] words against the king. And when they were to fight a combat, at the very barre and entry of the Lists, by the voice of an Herauld it was proclaimed in the kings name, That both of them should be banished, Lancaster for ten yeares, and Mowbray for ever: who afterwards ended his life at Venice, leaving two sonnes behind him in

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[ A] England. Of which, Thomas Earle Marshall and of Nottingham, for no other Ti∣tle used hee, was beheaded for seditious plotting against Henry of Lancaster, who now had possessed himselfe of the Crowne by the name of King Henry the Fourth. But his brother and heire John, who through the favour of King Henry the Fifth was raised up, and for certaine yeares after called onely Earle Marshall and of Not∣tingham, at last in the very beginning of Henry the Sixth his Raigne, By authority of Parliament and by vertue of the Patent granted by King Richard the Second, was declared, Duke of Norfolke, as being the sonne of Thomas Duke of Norfolke his father, and heire to Thomas his brother. After him succeeded John his sonne, who died in the first yeare of Edward the Fourth: and after him likewise John his sonne, who whiles [ B] his father lived was created by King Henry the Sixth Earle of Surry and of Warren. Whose onely daughter Anne, Richard Duke of Yorke, the young sonne of King Edward the Fourth tooke to wife, and together with her received of his father the Titles of Duke of Norfolke, Earle Marshall, Earle of Warren and Nottingham. But after that he and his wife both were made away in their tender yeares, Richard the Third, King of England conferred this Title of the Duke of Norfolke, and the dig∣nity of Earle Marshall upon John Lord Howard, who was found next cozen in bloud and one of the heires to the said Anne Dutchesse of Yorke and Norfolke; as whose mother was one of the daughters of that first Thomas Mowbray Duke of Nor∣folke, and who in the time of King Edward the Fourth was summoned a Baron to [ C] the Parliament. This John lost his life at Bosworth field, fighting valiantly in the quar∣rell of King Richard, against King Henry the Seventh. His sonne Thomas, who being by King Richard the Third created Earle of Surry, and by King Henry the Seventh made Lord Treasurer, was by King Henry the Eighth restored to the Title of Duke of Norfolke, and his sonne the same day created Earle of Surry: after that by his conduct, James the fourth, King of the Scots was slaine, and the Scottish po∣wer vanquished at Branxton. In memoriall of which Victory the said King granted to him and his heires males for ever, that they should beare in the midst of the Bend in the Howards Armes, the whole halfe of the upper part of a Lion Geules, pierced through the mouth with an arrow, in the due colours of the Armes of the King of Scots. I translate it [ D] verbatim out of the Patent. After him succeeded his sonne Thomas as well in his honours, as in the Office of Lord Treasurer of England, and lived to the time of Queene Mary, tossed to and fro betweene the reciprocall ebbes and flowes of for∣tune, whose grand sonne Thomas (by his sonne Henry, the first of the English No∣bility that did illustrate his high birth with the beauty of learning) being attainted for purposing a marriage with Mary the Queene of Scots, lost his life in the yeare of our Lord 1572. and was the last Duke of Norfolke. Since which time his off∣spring lay for a good while halfe dead: but now watered and revived with the vi∣tall dew of King James, reflourisheth very freshly.

In this Province there be Parish Churches about 660.

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CAMBRIDGE Comitatus quem olim ICENI Insederunt

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[ A]

CAMBRIDGE-SHIRE.

CAMBRIDGE-SHIRE, called in the English-Saxon 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉 lyeth more inward, and stretched out in length Northward. On the East it butteth upon Northfolke and Suf∣folke, on the South upon the East-Saxons or Essexe, and Hert∣fordshire, on the West upon Bedford and Huntingdon shires, [ B] and Northward upon Lincoln-shire: being divided into two parts by the river Ouse which crosseth it over-thwart from West to East.

The lower and South-part is better manured, and therefore more plentifull, being some-what a plaine, yet not altogether levell, for the most part or all of it rather (save onely where it bringeth forth saffron) is laid out into corne fields, and yeeldeth plentifully the best barly; of which steeped in water and lying wet therein untill it spurt againe, then after the said sprout is full come, dried and parched over a Kill, they make store of mault: By venting and sending out whereof into the neighbor-coun∣tries, the Inhabitants raise very great gaine. The farther and Northerne part, be∣cause [ C] it is Fennish ground, by reason of the many flouds that the rivers cause, and so dispersed into Islands, is called The Isle of Ely, a tract passing greene, fresh and gay by reason of most plenteous pastures: howbeit after a sort hollow, by occasion of the water that in some places secretly entreth in; yea and otherwhile when it over∣floweth, surroundeth most part of it.

Along the West side of the lower part runneth one of the two highwayes made by the Romans, (Ely booke calleth it Ermingstreet) which passeth forth right to Hntingdon through Roiston, that standeth in the very edge and entry of the Shire, a towne well knowne, yet but of late built, whereof I have already spoken: also by Caxton, in times past the seate of the Barony of Stephen de Eschalers, and from whose [ D] Posterity in the reigne of King Henry the Third it descended to the Frevills, and from them by the Burgoins to the Iermins. Neither is Gamlinghay far distant from hence, where dwelt the Avenells, whose Inheritance came by marriage to the anci∣ent Family of Saint George, (out of which there flourished many Knights since the time of King Henry the First) at Hatley, which of them is called Hatley Saint George. Above Caxton before mentioned is Eltesley, where was in elder Ages a Religious house of Holy Virgines, among whom was celebrated the incertaine memory of Saint Pandionia the daughter of a Scottish King, as the tradition is. But long since they were translated to Hinchinbroke. And againe above Eltesley, was the Priory of Swasey founded for blacke Monkes by Alan la Zouch brother to the Vicount of Ro∣han [ E] in the Lesser Britaine, and was the common Sepulture a long time for the Family of Zouch.

More Westward a little river runneth through the middle of this part, which is∣suing downe out of Ashwel, hastneth from South to North with many turnings, to joyn it selfe with the Ouse, running by Shengay (where be the goodliest medows of this Shire) a Commandery in old time of the Knights Templars; which Shengay, Sibyl the daughter of Roger Mont-gomery Earle of Shrewsbury, and wife of I. de Raines gave unto them in the yeere 1130. nor farre from Burne Castle, in ancient times the Barony of Picot Sheriffe of this Shire, and of the Peverels, from whom by one of the daughters, this and other Possessions came unto Sir Gilbert Pech: the last of whose house, after he [ F] had otherwise advanced his children by his second wife, ordained King Edward the First, to be his Heire. For, in those dayes the Noble men of England brought into use againe the custome of the Romanes under their Emperours, which was to no∣minate them their heires, if they were in any disfavour with their Soveraignes.

But in the Barons warre in King Henrie the Third his dayes, this Castle was

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burnt downe, being set on fire by Ribald L' Isle: At which time Walter de Cottenham [ A] a respective person, was hanged for Rebellion.

By what name writers termed this River, it is a question: some call it Granta, others Camus. And unto these I rather incline: both for that the course thereof is somewhat crooked; for, so much doth Cam in the British tongue signifie, whence a certaine crooked river in Cornwall is named Camel; and also because that ancient towne CAMBORITUM, which Antonine the Emperour mentioneth in his third journey of Britaine, stood upon this river as I am well neere induced to beleeve, by the distance, by the name, and also by the peeces of Romane mony found here nigh unto the bridge in great store. For, CAMBORITUM, signifieth A Fourd at Camus, or a Fourd with crooked windings. For Rith in our British or Welsh tongue betokeneth [ B] A Fourd, which I note to this end, that the Frenchmen may more easily perceive and see what is the meaning of Augustoritum, Darioritum, Rithomagus, and other such like in France. Howbeit the Saxons chuse rather to call our Camboritum, 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉 and 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, which name it keepeth still: but whence it was deri∣ved, I cannot yet see. If I should fetch it from Gron a Saxon word that signifieth a Fenny place, I might perhaps goe wide: And yet Asserius termed once or twice, certaine fennish and marish grounds in Somersetshire, by a mungrell name halfe Saxon and halfe Latine, Gronnas paludosissimas: and very well knowne it is, that a City in West Frisland, which is situate in such a ground is named Groningen. But let other hunt after the derivation of this name. About the yeere of Christ 700. this [ C] was a little desolate Citty, as saith Bede, whiles hee reporteth that neere unto the walles, there was found a little trough or coffin, very cunningly and finely wrought of Marble, and covered most fitly with a lidde of the like stone. But now a small Village it is: one part whereof Henry Lacie Earle of Lincolne gave unto his base sonne Henry, with this condition, that his sonnes and their posterity (which a good while since be cleane worne out) should have no other Christian name but Henry: the other part, Henry the Sixth King of England comming out of the house of Lancaster, into whose hands the Patrimony of Earle Lacie fell, graunted unto the Kings Colledge in Cambridge: which was either a part or else a plant of that anci∣ent Camboritum, so neere it commeth unto it both in situation and name. Neither [ D] can I easily beleeve, that Grant was turned into Cam; for this might seeme a defle∣xion some what too hardly streined, wherein all the letters but one are quite swal∣lowed up. I would rather thinke that the common people reteined the terme of the ancient name of Camboritum or of the river Cam, although writers used more often the Saxon name Grantbridge. This Citty which being the other University of Eng∣land, the other eye, the other strong-stay, as it were, thereof, and a most famous Mart and store-house of good Literature and Godlines, standeth upon the river Cam, which after it hath in sporting wise besprinkled the West side thereof with many Islets, turning into the East, divideth it into two parts, and hath a Bridge over it, whence arose this latter name Cambridge. Beyond the bridge is seene a large and [ E] ancient Castle, which seemeth now to have lived out his full time, nigh Maudlen Col∣ledge. On this side the Bridge, where standeth the greatest part by farre of the City, you have a pleasant sight every where to the eye, what of fair streets orderly raunged, what of a number of Churches, and of sixteene Colledges, sacred mansions of the Muses, wherein a number of great learned men are maintained, and wherein the knowledge of the best Arts, and the skill in tongues so flourish, that they may be rightly counted the fountaines of Literature, Religion, and all Knowledge whatso∣ever, who right sweetly bedew and sprinkle, with most holesom waters the gardens of the Church and Common-wealth through England. Neither is there wanting any thing here, that a man may require in a most flourishing Vniversity, were it not that [ F] the ayre is somewhat unhealthfull arising as it doth out of a fenny ground hard by. And yet peradventure they that first founded an University in that place, allowed of Platoes judgement. For, he being of a very excellent and strong constitution of body chose out the Academia, an unwholsome place of Attica, for to study in, that so the

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[ A] superfluous ranknesse of body which might overlay the minde, might be kept under by the distemperature of the place. Neverthelesse, for all this, our forefathers, men of singular wisedome dedicated this place, and not without divine direction unto learned Studies, and beautified it with notable workes and buildings.

And least we should seeme in the worst-kinde unthankefull to those singular Pa∣trons of learning, or rather that I may use the words of Eumenius, toward the Pa∣rents of our Children: let us summarily rehearse both themselves, and the Colledges also which they founded and consecrated to good Literature, to their honourable memory, and that out of the Cambridge Story. The report goeth, that Cantaber a Spa∣niard, 375. yeeres before the Nativity of Christ, first began and founded this Uni∣versity: [ B] Also that Sebert King of the East-Angles restored it againe in the yeere af∣ter Christs birth, 630. Afterwards being other whiles overthrowne and destroyed with the Danish stormes, it lay a long time forlorne and of no account, untill all be∣gan to revive under the Normans governement.

And not long after, Innes, Hostels and Halles were built for Scholers, howbeit endowed with no possessions. But Hugh Balsham Bishop of Ely, in the yeere 1284. built the first Colledge called Peter-house, and endowed it with Lands: whose ex∣ample these ensuing did imitate and follow: Richard Badew with the good helpe and furtherance of Lady Elizabeth Clare Countesse of Vlster, in the yeere 1340. founded Clare Hall: Lady Mary S. Paul Countesse of Pembroch in the yeere 1347. [ C] Pembroch Hall: The Guild or Society of Corpus Christi Brethren, Corpus Christi Colledge, which is called also S. Bennet Colledge: William Bateman Bishop of Norwich, about the yeere 1353. Trinity Hall: Edmund Gonevil in the yeere 1348. and Iohn Caius Doctor of Physicke in our time, Gonevil and Caius Colledge: Henry the Sixth King of England erected Kings Colledge in the yeere 1441. whereunto he joyned a Chappell, which may rightly be counted one of the fairest buildings of the whole world. His wife Margaret of Anjou, in the yeere 1443. built Queenes Colledge: Robert Woodlarke Professor of Divinity in the yeere 1459. S. Katharines Hall: Iohn Alcocke Bishop of Ely in the yeere 1497. was the founder of Iesus Colledge: Lady Margaret Countesse of Richmond mother to King Henry the Seaventh, about the yeere 1506. erected [ D] Christs Colledge, and S. Iohns, enlarged now in goodly manner with new buildings: Sir Thomas Audley Lord Chancellour of England, in the yeere 1542. built Maudlen Colledge; which Sir Christopher Wray Lord chiefe Justice of England hath lately bew∣tified with new buildings and endowed with great possessions: And that most puis∣sant King, Henry the Eight, in the yeere of our salvation 1546. made Trinity Colledge of three others, to wit, of S. Michaels House or Colledge, which Herveie Stanton in the reigne of Edward the Second built, of Kings Hall founded by King Edward the Third, and of Fishwicks Hostell. Which Colledge, that the Students might inhabite more pleasantly, is now repaired, nay rather new built, with that magnificence, by the carefull direction of Thomas Nevill Doctor of Divinity, Master of the said Col∣ledge, [ E] and Deane of Canterbury, that it is become a Colledge for stately greatnesse, for uniforme building and beauty of the roomes, scarce inferiour to any other in Christendome: and he himselfe may bee accounted in the judgement even of the greatest Philosopher Truly 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, for bestowing so great cost in pub∣like and not in his owne private uses. Also wherein I congratulate our Age, and our selves in the behalfe of good learning, that honourable and prudent man Sir Walter Mildmay knight, one of the Privy Counsell to Queene Elizabeth, who founded a new Colledge in the honour of Emanuel: and Lady Francis Sidneie Countesse of Sussex, in her last will gave a Legacy of 5000. pounds to the building of a Colledge that should be called Sidney-Sussex, which is now fully finished.

[ F] I let passe here litle Monasteries and Religious houses because they were of small note, unlesse it were Barnewell Abbey, which Sir Paine Peverell a worthy and valiant warriour, Standard-bearer to Robert Duke of Normandy in the holy War against Infidels, translated, in the reigne of Henry the first, from S. Giles Church, where Picot the Sheriffe had ordained secular Priests, unto this place, and brought into it thirty

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Monkes, for that himselfe at that time was thirty yeeres of Age. The reason of that [ A] name Barnewell, you may read if it please you, out of the private History of that place, in these words: Sir Payne Peverell obtained of King Henry the First, a certaine plot of ground without the Burgh of Cambridge: Out of the very midst of that place there sprung up certaine Fountaines very pure and lively, which in English they called Barnewell in those daies, as one would say the wels of Barnes, that is, Children; For that Boyes and Youthes meeting once a yeare there on the Even of Saint Iohn Baptists Nativity, after the English manner ex∣ercised themselves in wrestling and other sports and pastimes befitting their age, yea and mer∣rily applauded one another with songs and minstralsie. Whence it came, that for the number of Boyes and Girles running thither and there playing, grew to be a custome, that on the sud∣daine a multitude of buyers and sellers repaired thither. [ B]

Neither was Cambridge, (albeit it was consecrated to the Muses) altogether free from the furies of Mars. For, when the Danes robbed and spoyled up and downe, many times they wintered here: and in the yeere of Redemption 1010. when Sue∣no the Dane, by most cruell and terrible tyranny, bare downe all before him, they spared not the honour of the place, nor the Muses, (which we read that Sylla yet did at Athens) but pittifully burnt and defaced it all. Neverthelesse at the first comming in of the Normans, it was sufficiently peopled. For, thus we read in the Domesday booke of King William the Conquerour. The Burrough of Grentbridge is divided into tenne Wards, and hath 387. Mansion houses. But eighteene houses were destroyed for buil∣ding of the Castle, what time, as the said King William the First determined to over∣awe [ C] the English every where (whom lately hee had conquered) with Castles, as it were with bridles of servitude. Afterwards in the Barons warre, it sustained great losse by the out-lawed Barons out of the Isle of Ely: therefore Henry the Third to represse their outrages caused a deepe ditch to be cast on the East side, which is still called Kings ditch.

Here happily there is a secret expectation of some, that I should give mine opi∣nion as touching the antiquity of this University. But I will bee no dealer in this case: For, I meane not to make comparison betweene these two most flourishing Universities of ours, to whom I know none equall. Howbeit I feare me, they have builded Castles in the Ayre, and thrust upon us devices of their owne braines; who [ D] extolling the antiquity thereof farre above any probability of truth, have written that this Cantaber of Spaine streight after Rome was built, and many yeeres before the Nativity of Christ erected this University. True and certaine it is, that when∣soever it was first ordained, it was a seat of learning about the time of King Henry the First. For, thus wee read in an old Additament of Peter Blessensis unto Ingulph. Abbot Ioffred sent ouer to his Manour of Cotenham neere Cambridge, Gislebert his fellow Monke, and professour of Divinity, with three other Monkes: who following him into Eng∣land, being throughly furnished with Philosophicall Theoremes, and other primitive scien∣ces, repaired dayly to Cambridge: and having hired a certaine publike Barne, made open pro∣fession of their sciences, and in short space of time drew together a great number of Schollers. [ E] But in the second yeere after their comming, the number of their Scholars grew so great, as well from out of the whole Country as the Towne; that the biggest house and barne that was, or any Church whatsoever sufficed not to receive them all. Whereupon sorting themselves apart in severall places, and taking the Vniversity of Orleance for their paterne, earely in the mor∣ning, Monke Odo a singular Grammarian and Satyricall Poet read Grammer unto Boyes and those of the younger sort assigned unto him, according to the Doctrine of Priscian and of Remigius upon him. At one of the clocke, Terricus a most witty and subtile Sophister taught the elder sort of young men, Aristotles Logicke, after the Introductions of Porphyrie and the Comments of Averroes. At three of the clocke Monke William read a Lecture in Tullies Rhetoricke and Quintilians Flores: But the great Master Gislebert, upon every [ F] Sunday, and Holy-dayes, preached GODS Word unto the People. And thus out of this little Fountaine, which grew to bee a great River, wee see how the Citty of GOD now is be∣come enriched, and all England made fruitfull, by meanes of very many Masters and Teachers proceeding out of Cambridge, in manner of the Holy Paradise, &c.

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[ A] But at what time it became an Vniversity by authority, Robert de Remington shall tell you. Vnder the Reigne (saith hee) of Edward the First, Grantbridge of a Schoole was made an Vniversity (such as Oxenford is) by the Court of Rome. But what meane I thus unadvisedly to step into these lists? Wherein long since two most learned old men have encountred one with another: Unto whom verely, as to right learned men I am willing to yeeld up my weapons, and vaile bonnet with all reverence. The Me∣ridian line cutting the Zenith just over Cambridge, is distant from the furthest West poynt twenty three degrees, and twenty five scruples. And the Arch of the same Meridian lying betweene the Aequator and Verticall poynt, is fiftie two degrees and II. scruples.

[ B] Cam from Cambridge continuing his course by Waterbeach an ancient seat of Nuns, which Lady Mary S. Paul translated from thence to Denny somewhat higher but no∣thing healthfuller, when in a low ground he hath spread a Mere, associateth himselfe with the River Ouse.

But to returne hard under Cambridge Eastward neere unto Sture a little brooke is kept every yeere in the moneth of September, the greatest Faire of all England, whether you respect the multitude of buyers and sellers resorting thither, or the store of commodities there to be vented. Hard by whereas the way was most com∣berous and troublesome to passengers to and fro, that right good and praise-worthy man G. Hervy Doctor of the Civill Law and M. of Trinity Hall in Cambridge, made [ C] not long since with great charges but of a Godly and laudable intent a very faire raised Causey, for three miles or thereabout in length toward Neumercat.

Neere unto Cambridge on the South-East side, there appeare aloft certaine high Hills; the Students call them Gogmagog-Hills: Henry of Huntingdon tearmed them Amoenissima montana de Balsham, that is, The most pleasant Mountaines of Balsham, by reason of a little Village standing beneath them, wherein as hee writeth, the Danes left no kinde of most savage cruelty unattempted. On the top of these hills I saw a Fort intrenched, and the same very large, strengthened with a threefold Rampire: an hold surely in those dayes inexpugnable, as some skilfull men in feats of Warre bee of opinion, were it not that water is so farre off. Gervase of Tilbury seemeth to [ D] call it Vandelbiria. Beneath Cambridge (saith he) there was a place named Vandelbiria, for that the Vandals wasting the parts of Brittaine, with cruell slaughter of Christians, there en∣camped themselves: where upon the very top of the hill they pitched their Tents; there is a Plaine inclosed round with a Trench and Rampire, which hath entrance into it but in one place as it were at a Gate.

Touching the Martiall spectre, or sprite that walked here, which he addeth to the rest, because it is but a meere toyish and fantasticall devise of the doting vulgar sort; I willing over-passe it. For it is not my purpose to tell pleasant tales, and tickle eares. In the Vale under these hills is Salston to be seene, which from the Burges of Burgh-Green, by Walter De-la-pole and Ingalthorp, came unto Sir Iohn Nevill Marquesse [ E] Mont-acute, and by his daughter and one of his heires to the Hudlestons, who have lived here in worship and reputation.

More Eastward, first we meete with Hildersham, belonging sometimes to the Bust∣lers and now by marriage to the Parises: Further hard by the Woods, is Horsheath situate; the Possession whereof is knowne by a long descent to have pertained unto the ancient Families of the Argentons and Alingtons, of whom elsewhere I have writ∣ten, and is now the habitation of the Alingtons. Adjoyning hereunto is Castle Camps, the ancient seat also of the Veres Earles of Oxford, which Hugh Vere held (as the old booke of Inquisition Records) That he might be the Kings Chamberleine: whereas notwithstanding most true it is, that Henry the First King of England granted unto [ F] Aubry de Vere that Office in these words: The principall Chamberlaineship of all Eng∣land in Fee and Inheritance, with all the Dignities, Liberties, and Honours thereto belong∣ing, as freely and honourably, as Robert Mallet held the same, &c. The Kings notwith∣standing ordained sometimes one, and sometimes another at their pleasure to exe∣cute this Office.

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The Earles of Oxford also, that I may note it incidently, by the heire of R. Sandford [ A] held the Manours of Fingrey and Wulfelmelston by Serjeanty of Chamberlainship to the Queenes at the Coronation of the Kings.

Not far from hence are seene here and there those great and long Ditches which certainly the East Angles did cast, to restraine the Mercians, who with sudden in∣rodes were wont most outragiously to make havocke of all before them. The first of these beginneth at Hinkeston, runneth Eastward by Hildersham toward Hors-heath, about five miles in length. The second neere unto this, called Brentditch goeth from Melborne by Fulmer.

Where D. Hervies cawsey which I mentioned, endeth, there appeareth also a third forefence or ditch cast up in old time: which beginning at the East banke of the river [ B] Cam, reacheth directly by Fenn-Ditton, or more truly Ditch-ton (so called of the very Ditch) betweene great Wilberham and Fulburn, as farre as to Balsham. At this day this is called commonly Seauen mile Dyke, because it is seaven miles from Newmercate: in times past, Fleam-Dyke in old English, that is, Flight-Dyke, of some memorable flight there, as it seemeth. At the said Wilberham sometimes called Wilburgham, dwelt in times past the Barons Lisle of Rong-mount, men of ancient nobility: of whom John, for his Martiall prowesse was by King Edward the Third ranged among the first founders of the order of the Garter: and of that Family there yet remaineth an heire Male, a reverend old Man and full of Children, named Edmund Lisle, who is still Lord of this place. [ C]

More East from hence five miles within the Country, is to bee seene the fourth forefence or ditch, the greatest of all the rest, with a rampier thereto; which the com∣mon people wondring greatly at, as a worke made by Devils and not by men, use to call Devils-Dyke: others, Rech-Dyke, of Rech a little mercate towne, where it begin∣neth. This is doubtlesse that, whereof Abbo Floriacensis when he describeth the sight of East England, writeth thus. From that part whereas the Sun inclineth Westward, the Province it selfe adjoyneth to the rest of the Island, and is therefore passable: but for feare of be∣ing overrun with many invasions and inrodes of enemies, it is fortified in the front with a banke or rampier like unto an huge wall, and with a Trench or Ditch below in the ground. This for many miles together cutteth overthwart that Plaine which is called Newmarket∣heath, [ D] where it lay open to incursions, beginning at Rech: above which the Country is fenny, and therefore impassable: and it endeth nere to Cowlidge, where the passage by reason of woods was more cumbersome. And it was the limit as well of the Kingdome, as of the Bishopricke of the East Angles. Who was the author of so great a peece of worke, it is uncertaine. Some later writers say it was King Canutus the Dane: whereas notwithstanding the said Abbo made mention of it, who died be∣fore that Canutus obtained the Kingdome of England: and the Saxon Chronicle, where it relateth the rebellion of Athelwolph against King Edward the Elder, calleth it simply Dyke; and sheweth, That King Edward laid waste whatsoever lieth betweene the Dyke and the river Ouse, as farre as to the North Fennes: also that Aethelwold the rebell, [ E] and Eohric the Dane, were at that time slaine there in battell. But they who wrote since Canutus times, termed it, Saint Edmunds limit, and Saint Edmunds Dyke; and verily thinke, that King Canutus cast it up, who being most devoted to Saint Edmund the Martyr granted unto the religious Monkes of Saint Edmunds Bury (for to make satis∣faction for the wicked cruelty of Swan his father wrought upon them) very great immunities, even as farre as to this Dyke: whence it is, that William of Malmesbury in his booke Of Bishops writeth thus, The Customers and Toll gatherers, which in other places make foule worke and outrage, without respect or difference of right and wrong, there in humble manner on this side Saint Edmunds Dike, surcease their quarrels and braules. And certaine it is that these two fore-fences last named were called Saint Edmunds Dykes. For Ma∣thew [ F] Florilegus hath recorded that the said battell against Aethelwolph, was fought betweene the two Dykes of Saint Edmund.

Nere unto Rech, standeth Burwel, a Castle in later times of the Lord Tiptoft, which in those most troublesome times of King Stephen Geffrey Mandevill Earle of Essex,

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[ A] who by violent invasion of other mens possessions lost much honour, valiantly assaul∣ted: untill that being shot through the head with an arrow, he delivered those coun∣tries from the feare they had stood in a long time.

Scarce two miles off, stands Lanheath, where for these many yeeres the Cottons, right worshipfull Gentlemen of Knights degree have dwelt: From which Wicken is not farre distant, which came to the Family of the Peytons by a daughter and coheire of the Gernons about Edward the Thirds time, as afterward Isleham descended to them by a coheire of Bernard in Henry the Sixth's time, which Knightly Family of Peytons flowred out of the same Male-stocke, whence the Vffords Earles of Suffolke descended, as appeareth by their Coate-armour, albeit they assumed the surname of [ B] Peyton according to the use of that age, from their Manour of Peyton-hall in Boxford in the County of Suffolke.

Upon the same Dyke also, is seated Kirtling, called likewise Catlidge, famous in these dayes by reason of the principall house of the Barons North; since Queene Ma∣ry honoured Sir Edward North, with that title for his wisedome: but in times past it was famous for a Synode held there, what time as the Clergy men were at hot strife among themselves about the celebration of the feast of Easter.

The higher and Northerly part of this Shire is wholly divided into river Isles: and being distinguished by many Ditches, Chanels and Draines, with a pleasant greene hew all Summer time contenteth the eyes of the beholders: but in Winter wholly [ C] in manner over-covered with water, farther every way than a man is able to ken, re∣sembleth in some sort a very Sea.

They that inhabited this fennish Country and all the rest beside, (which from the edge and borders of Suffolke, as farre as to Wainflet in Lincolne-shire conteineth threescore and eight miles, and millions of acres lying in these foure Shires, Cam∣bridge, Huntingdon, North-hampton and Lincolne) were in the Saxons time called Girvii, that is, as some interpret it, Fen-men or Fen-dwellers. A kind of people according to the nature of the place where they dwell rude, uncivill, and envious to all others whom they call Vpland-men: who stalking on high upon stilts, apply their mindes, to grasing, fishing and fowling. The whole Region it selfe, which in winter season [ D] and sometimes most part of the yeere is overflowed by the spreading waters of the rivers Ouse, Grant, Nen, Welland, Glene, and Witham, having not loades and sewers large enough to voide away: But againe when their Streames are retired within their owne Channels, it is so plenteous and ranke of a certaine fatte grosse and full hey, (which they call Lid) that when they have mowen downe as much with the better as will serve their turnes, they set fire on the rest and burne it in November, that it may come up againe in great abundance. At which time a man may see this Fen∣nish and moyst Tract on a light flaming fire all over every way, and wonder thereat. Great plenty it hath besides of Turfe and Sedge for the maintenance of fire: of reed also for to thatch their Houses, yea and of Alders, beside other watery Shrubbes. [ E] But chiefly it bringeth forth exceeding store of willowes both naturally, and also for that being planted by mans hand they have serv'd in good steed, and often cut downe with their manifold increase, and infinit number of heires (to use Plinies word) against the violent force of the waters rushing against the bankes. Whereof also as well here, as in other places there be baskets made, which seeing the Britains call Bascades, I for my part, that I may note so much by the way, do not understand the Poet Martiall in that Distichon, unlesse hee meaneth these, among the Presents and Gifts sent to and fro.

Barbara de pictis veni Bascauda Britannis, Sed me jam mavult dicere Roma suam.
[ F]
By barbarous name, a Baskaud I from painted Britans came, But now Rome faine would call me hers, although I be the same.

Besides al this the herb, Scordiū, which also is called Water Germāder, groweth plenti∣fully

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here hard by the ditches sides: but as for these Fenny Ilands, Foelix a writer of [ A] good antiquity hath depainted them forth in these words. There is a Fen of exceeding great largenesse which beginning at the bankes of the river Gront, arising somewhere with sedge plots, in other places with blacke waters yeelding a duskish vapour, with woods also among the Isles, and having many winding turnes of the banke, reacheth out in a very long tract, from South to North-East as farre as to the Sea. And the very same Fenne William a Monke of Crowland in the life of Guthlake hath thus described in verse.

Est apud Angligenas à Grontae flumine, longo Orbe per anfractus stagnosos, & fluviales, Circumfusapalus, Orientalisque propinqua [ B] Littoribus Pelagi, sese distendit ab Austro In longum versus Aquilonem, gurgite tetro, Morbosos pisces vegetans, & arundine densa Ventorum strepitus, quasi quaedam verba susurrans.
A spatious Fenne in England lies from Gront that rivers side, Among the winding crankes of Lakes and Rivers far and wide, Y' spred, and neere unto the bankes of Easterne Sea doth stretch, It selfe; and so from Southerne side along North Eastward reach. In muddy gulfe unwholsome fish it breeds: as reeds doe shake [ C] There growing thicke, of winds as words a whispering noise they make.

Joyne hereunto if you please thus much out of Henry of Huntingdon: This Fenny country (saith he) is passing rich and plenteous, yea and beautifull to behold, watered with many Rivers running downe to it, garnished with a number of Meres both great and small, trimly adorned likewise with many Woods and Ilands. And for a small conclusion of this matter, take with you also these few words of William of Malmesbury speaking of his time. So great store there is here of Fishes that strangers comming hither make a wonder at it, and the Inhabitants laugh thereat, to see them wonder. Neither is Water-Foule lesse cheape; so that for one halfe penny and under, five men at the least may not onely eat to slake hunger and [ D] content nature, but also feed their fill of Fish and Foule.

As touching the drying up of this Fenny country, what discourse and arguing oftentimes there hath beene either by way of sound and wholsome counsell, or of a goodly pretence and shew of a common good, even in the High Court of Parlia∣ment, I list not to relate. But it is to be feared least (that which often hath happened to the Pontine Marishes of Italy) it would come againe to the former state. So that many thinke it the wisest and best course according to the sage admonition in like case of Apollo his Oracle, Not to intermeddle at all with that which God hath ordained. Upon the naturall strength of this place and plenty of all things there, seditious Re∣bels have often presumed; and not onely the English when they banded themselves [ E] against William Conquerour, but the Barons also whensoever they were Out-lawed, from hence troubled and molested their Kings. But evermore they had ill successe, albeit otherwhiles they built fortresses both at Eryth and also at Athered, at this day Audre, where the easiest entrance is into this Isle. And even yet neere unto Andre, is to be seene a Military rampire of a meane height, but of a very large compasse, which they call Belsars-hils, of one Belisar, I wot not who.

Part of this Fenny country that lyeth more South and is the greatest by farre, which also is counted of this shire, was named in the English Saxon tongue 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉 now The Isle of Ely, of the chiefe Iland, which name Bede hath derived from Eles, and thereupon sometime tearmed it Insulam anguillariam, that is, The Isle of Eles. Polydore [ F] Virgil fetcheth the originall therof from the Greek word 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, that signifieth Marish, others from Helig a Brittish word betokening Willowes or Sallowes, wherewith it doth most of all abound. Part of this Region, we read that one Tombert a Prince of the Southern Girvii gave as a dowry to his wife Audry, who after she had left her second

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[ A] husband Egfrid, King of the Nordan humberland, being fully resolved to serve Christ, built a Monastery for Nunnes Votaries in the principall Iland of these, properly called 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉 which was then reckoned at 600 Hides or Families; and of this Monastery, she also her selfe the first Abbesse. Yet was not this the first Church in the fenny country. For the booke of Ely recordeth, that S. Austen of Canterbury founded a Church at Cradi∣den; which Penda the Mercian afterwards rased: and William of Malmesbury reporteth, that Foelix Bishop of the East English had his first See at Soham, which yet is within the Diocesse of Norwich. Soham, saith he, is a village situate neere unto a Fen, which was in times past dangerous for those that would passe into Ely by water: now by reason of a way or causey made through the Fenny ground overgrowne with Reeds, men may goe over thither by [ B] land. There be remaining still the tokens of a Church destroyed by the Danes, which with the ruines thereof overwhelmed the inhabitants, who were burnt together with it. At which time also that Monastry of S. Audry was overthrowne by the furious Danes: but Ethelwold Bishop of Winchester reedified it: For he, by a composition betweene the King and him, bought the whole Iland a new, and having cast out the Priests thence, stored it with Monks, unto whom King Edgar, as we read in his letters patents, granted with∣in the Fens, jurisdiction over the secular causes of two Hundreds, and without the Fens, of two Hundreds and an halfe in Wichlaw, within the province of the East-Angles, which are called at this day, The liberties of S. Audry. Afterwards Kings and great Noble men enriched it with large revenewes: and Earle Brithnoth especially, Being now ready to joyne battaile [ C] with the Danes in the yeare 999. gave unto the Church of Ely, Somersham, Spaldwic, Trum∣pinton, Ratindum, Heisbury, Fulburn, Tinerston, Triplestow, and Impetum, (for that the Monkes had in magnificent manner entertained him) in case he should loose his life in that battaile. But his fortune was to die at Maldun, after hee had fought with the Danes 14. dayes together. And so rich was the Monastery, that the Abbot thereof, as witnesseth Malmsbury, laid up every yeere in his owne purse a thousand and foure hundred pounds. And Richard the last Abbot sonne, to Earle Gislebert, being over-tipled, as it were with wealth, disdaining to bee under the Bishop of Lincolne, dealt with the King, what by golden words, as the Monkes write, and what by great suite and po∣liticke meanes, that a Bishops See might be erected here: which, hee prevented by [ D] death obtained not. Yet soone after, King Henry the first having gotten allowance from the Pope, made Herveie, who had beene Bishop of Bangor and by the Welshmen cast out of his owne seat, the first Bishop of Ely: unto whom and to his successors he laied for his Diocesse Cambridge-shire, which had belonged before unto the Bishop of Lincolne, and confirmed certaine Royalties in these Ilands. To the Bishops of Lin∣colne, from whose jurisdiction he had taken away this Iland and Cambridge-shire, he granted for to make amends, The Manour of Spaldwic: or as the booke of Ely hath, The Manour of Spaldwic was given unto the Church of Lincolne for ever, in exchange for the Bishops superintendency over the County of Cambridge. Herveie being now made Bishop, sought by all meanes possible to augment the dignity of his Church.

[ E] He obtained that it might bee every where Toll-free (these are the very words of the booke of Ely:) He set it free from the yoke of service of watch and ward, that it owed to the Castle of Norwich: hee made a way from Exning to Ely, through the Fennes, sixe miles in length; he beganne the faire Palace at Ely for his Successours, and pur∣chased to it faire Lands and not a few Lordships. And his Successours by abridging the number of Monkes (for, from threescore and tenne they brought them downe to forty) flowed with riches and wealth in great abundance even unto our time; and their festivall and solemne Holydayes they celebrated with so sumptuous provision and stately pompe, that they wonne the prayse and prize from all the Abbaies in England: whereupon a Poet also in that age wrote these verses not unproperly.

[ F]
Pravisis aliis, Eliensia festa videre, Est, quasi praevisa nocte, videre diem.
See, after others, Ely feasts, and surely thou wilt say, That having seene the night before, thou seest now the day.

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The Church likewise, which now began for age and long continuance to decay, [ A] they built up by litle and litle, and brought it to that ample statelinesse which now it hath: For, large it is, high and faire, but somewhat defaced, by reason of Noblemens and Bishops tombes (not without most shamefull indignity) are broken downe. And now in stead of that great Covent of Monks, there are established a Deane, Prebenda∣ries, a Grammar schoole, wherein 24. children are maintained and taught. Foure spe∣ciall things there are about this Church, that the Common people talke much of: The Lanterne on the very toppe thereof, just over the Quire, supported with eight pillars, and raised upon them right artificially, by Iohn Hothum the Bishop. Vnder the Church towards the North, standeth Saint Maries Chappell a singular fine peece of worke, built by Simon Montacute, Bishop. On the South side, there is an huge heape [ B] of earth cast up round of a great heigth, which they call the Mount, having had a wind mill upon it. And lastly, a Vine bearing fruit in great plenty, which now is wi∣thered and gone. These 4. a Monk of this place in times past knit up within this Rhyme.

Haec sunt Eliae, Lanterna, Capella Mariae, Atque molendinum, Nec non dans vinea vinum.
These things you may at Ely see, [ C] The Lanterne, Chapell of Saint Marie, A Winde-mill mounted up on hie, A Vine-yard yeelding Wine, yeerely.

As for Ely it selfe, it is a small Cittie, nor greatly to bee counted of, either for beauty, or frequency and resort, as having an unwholsome Aire by reason of the Fens round about, although it be seated somewhat higher. Neere to it is Downham where the Bishop hath his retyring House with a Parke: neere to Downham is Cow∣ney the ancientest seat of the Family surnamed for their habitation heere, L'isle and De Insula, and first planted here by Nigellus the second Bishop of Ely their Allies in [ D] the time of King Henry the First, as is set downe in a Lieger Booke of Ely. Chate∣ries or Cheaterich is not farre hence Westward, were Alwena a devout woman foun∣ded a Nunnery upon a coppid ground encompassed with Fens, while her husband founded Ramsey. But higher Northward amidst the Fennes, there stood another Abbay of very great name, called Thorney, of thornes and bushes that grow thicke about it, but in times past Ankerige of Ankers or Eremites living there solitarily; where as we finde in Peterborough booke Sexvulph a devout and religious man built a Monastery with little Cels for Eremits: Which being afterwards by the Danes throwne downe, Aetbelwold Bishop of Winchester (that he might promote the Mo∣nasticall profession) reedified, stored it with Monkes, and compassed it round about [ E] with trees. The place, as writeth William of Malmesbury, Representeth a very Paradise; for that in pleasure and delight it resembleth Heaven it selfe: in the very Marishes bearing Trees, that for their streight talnesse, and the same without knots, strive to touch the Stars; a Plaine is there as even as the Sea, which with greene grasse allureth the eye, so smooth and level that if any walke along the fields they shall finde nothing to stumble at. There is not the least parcell of ground that lies waste and void there. Here shall you finde the earth rising somewhere for Apple trees, there shall you have a field set with Vines, which either creepe upon the ground, or mount on high upon poles to support them. A mutuall strife there is betweene nature and hus∣bandry, that what the one forgetteth, the other might supply and produce. What will be said of the faire and beautifull buildings, which it is a wonder to see how the ground amid those Fens [ F] and Marishes, so firme and sound, doth beare with sure and stedfast foundations? A wonder∣full solitary place is there afforded to Monkes for quiet life, that so much the more constantly settle their mindes upon Heavenly things for that they see men very seldome, and so are they seene in their state more mortified and lower brought. A wonder it is to have a Woman

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[ A] seene there: if come men thither; there is rejoycing as at so many Angels. In a word, I may truly say, that this Island is an Hostell of Chastity, an harbour of Honesty, and a Schoole or Col∣ledge of Divine Philosophie.

Touching Wisbich, the Bishop of Elies Castle, about 13. miles off, situate among the fennes and rivers, and made of late a prison to keepe the Papists in hold, I have nothing else to say, but that this towne together with Walepole, was in old time given by the owner thereof unto the monastery of Ely, what time as he consecrated Alwin his little son there to live a monkes life: that King William the First built a Castle there, when the outlawed Lords made rodes out of this fenny country: and that in the yeere of our salvation 1236. when the Ocean being disquieted with violent [ B] windes, for two dayes continually together had beaten upon the shore, made an exceeding wide breach and overwhelmed both land and people. But the Castle of bricke that now is seene there, Iohn Morton Bishop of Ely built within the remembe∣rance of our great grandfathers: who also drew as streight as a line in this fenny coun∣try a ditch, which they call the Newleame for better conveyance and carriage by wa∣ter, that by this meanes the towne being well frequented might gaine the more and grow to wealth. Which fell out quite contrary: For it standeth now in no great steed, and the neighbour inhabitants complaine that the course of Nen into the Sea by Clowcrosse, is by this meanes altogether hindred and stopped.

The first Earle of Cambridge that I can finde, was William the brother of Ranulph [ C] Earle of Chester, as wee read in a patent or instrument of Alexander Bishop of Lin∣colne, bearing date in the yeere 1139. Afterwards, those of the royall blood in Scot∣land that were Earles of Huntingdon, wee may thinke to have beene Earles of Cam∣bridge also: For that it appeareth certainly out of the Records of the realme, that Da∣vid Earle of Huntingdon, received the third penny of the County or Earledome of Cambridge. Long time after, King Edward the Third advanced Sir Iohn of Henault brother to William the third Earle of Holland and of Henault to this honour, for the love of Queene Philip his wife, who was cosin to the said Iohn. For whose sake also when Iohn was revolted from him and tooke part with the French, hee honoured with the same title William Marquesse of Iuliers, the said Queene Philips sisters son. [ D] After the death of these two Forainers, King Edward the Third translated this dig∣nity to his fifth sonne Edmund of Langley, which after he had held foure yeeres (my warrant I have out of an old manuscript, being in the hands of that skilfull Antiqua∣ry Francis Thinn) the Earle of Henault cosin to Queene Philip, came into Parliament house, put in a claime for his right, and returned backe well contented. The said Edmund of Langly afterwards Duke of Yorke had two sonnes, Edward Duke of Yorke, who for a cer∣taine time held the Earldome of Cambridge, and was slaine in the battell of Agin-court: and Richard by the grace and favour of King Henry the Fifth, and consent of his brother Edward, was created Earle of Cambridge. But when he (ungratefull and ambitious man that hee was) contrived the destruction of that good and noble [ E] Prince, and so lost his head; the title of Cambridge died the same day that he did, or lurked at least wise among other titles of his sonne Richard, who was afterwards Duke of Yorke and restored to his blood and estate, as being cosin and heire to his Unkle Edward Duke of Yorke.

This Shire containeth Parishes 163.

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HVNTINGDON Comitatus qui pars fuir ICENORVM

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[ A] HUNTINGDON-SHIRE.

NExt unto Cambridge-shire, lyeth HUNTINGDON-SHIRE, in the Saxon tongue 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉; so situate, that South∣ward it confineth upon Bedford-shire; Westward upon North∣amptonshire: like as Northwards, where by the River Avon it is parted; and Eastward upon Cambridge-shire, a Country good for corne and tillage: and toward the East, where it is fen∣ny, very rich and plentifull for the feeding of Cattaile: else∣where [ B] right pleasant, by reason of rising hils and shady groves: For, the Inhabitants report, that in ancient times, it was throughout beset with woods: and certaine it is, that it was a Forest, untill that king Henry the Second, in the beginning of his raign disforested it, (as we find in an old perambulation) all save Way∣bridge Sapple and Herthei, which were Woods of the Lords demaine, and remaine still forests.

The South part thereof; the River Ouse (that I have so often spoken of) runneth by, and bedecketh with flowers. On which River among other of lesse note, there stand some Townes of good note. First, after it hath left Bedford-shire, and is entred into this County, it visiteth Saint Neots, commonly called Saint Needs, so named of [ C] one Neotus, a man both learned and holy; who travailed all his life time in propa∣gating of Christian Religion, whose body was translated from Neotstok in Cornwall hither, and in honour of him, Alfrick converted the Palace of Earle Elfride unto a Monastery. The which Dame Roisia Wife to Richard Lord of Clare, shortly after the comming in of the Normas enriched with many faire Possessions; But before it was named Ainulphsbury of one Ainulph likewise an holy and devout man, which name continueth still also in one part of it. A little beneath this, at Aileweston a very small Village, there are two little Springs, the one fresh, the other somewhat brackish: of which the neighbours give out, that this is good against scabs and leprosie, the other against the dimnesse of the eye-sight. From thence not farre, Ouse passeth to Bugden [ D] a proper faire house of the Bishops of Lincolne, and so by Hinchingbrok, a religious house sometimes of Nuns whom King William the Conquerour translated hither from Eltesley in Cambridge-shire, and now the dwelling house of the Cromwels, knights; commeth to Huntingdon, in the English-Saxon tongue, as Marianus reporteth 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, in the publique seale Huntersdune, that is, the hill or downe of hunters, as Henry Archdeacon of this place, who flourished 400. yeares since, interpreteth it: whence it used in their seale, an hunter; and Leland our Countriman alluding thereunto, hath coined a new Latine word for it, namely Venantodunum. This is the chiefe Towne of all this Shire, (to which it hath given also the name) farre excelling all the Townes about it, the same Archdeacon saith, as well for lightsome and pleasant situation, as for the beauty [ E] and faire shew that it hath it selfe: as well also for the vicinity of the Fennes as for great store of Deere and Fish. In King Edward the Confessors time, (that I may note so much out of Domesday booke) There were in this Borrough foure Ferlings, that is, Quarters or Wards: In two of them were 116. Burgesses, paying custome and gelt, and under them 100. Bordarij; in the other two 111. Burgesses for all customes and the Kings gelt. It is seated upon the North-banke of Ouse, somewhat high, stretching out in length Northward, adorned with foure Churches: and it had a little Abbay foun∣ded by Maude the Empresse and Eustace Lovetoft: the ruines whereof Eastward I have seene hard under the Towne. By the River neere unto the Bridge which is faire built of stone, the Mount and Plot of a Castle, is to bee seene, which in the [ F] yeare of our Redemption 917. King Edward the Elder built anew: and David the Scotishman, unto whom, as an ancient Historiographer writeth King Stephen had given the Burrough of Huntingdon for an augmentation of his estate, enlarged with many new buildings and Bulwarkes: but in the end King Henry the Second both because it was a place of refuge for seditious Rebels, and for that the Scots and the

Page 510

Saint Lizes had oftentimes raised quarrels and contention about it, to cut off all oc∣casions [ A] of strife, laid it even with the ground; when as hee, provoked with their unreasonable variance swore an oath, that neither they of Saint Lizes nor the Scot∣tishmen should quarrell any more for it. From these Castle hils, where there is a good∣ly prospect a great way off, a man may behold below a medow which they call Port∣sholme, environed round about with the River Ouse, the same very exceeding large, and of all others that the Sunne ever shone upon, most fresh and beautifull: whereof in the Spring time this may be truly said:

Ver pingit vario gemmantia prata colore: The pleasant Spring faire flowers doe yeeld, [ B] Of divers colours, in this field.

With such a delectable variety of gaye colours it pleaseth and contenteth the eye. On the hither banke over against Huntingdon, standeth the mother as it were thereof, from whence it had his Originall, called in Domesday booke Godmundcester, and at this day Good-man-chester, for Gormonchester: A very great country Towne, and of as great name for tillage; situate in an open ground, of a light mould, and bending to the Sun. Neither is there a Towne againe in all England that hath more stout and lusty hus∣bandmen, or more ploughs agoing: For, they make their boast that they have in for∣mer time received the Kings of England as they passed in their progresse this way, [ C] with nine score ploughs, brought forth in a rusticall kind of pompe for a gallant shew. Verily, of our Nation, ther be none that apply their mindes so seriously as they doe to husbandry (which Columella termeth the neere cozin of Wisedome) whether you respect their skill therein, or their ability to beare the expences, and their willing mind withall to take the paines. Henry of Huntingdon before named, calleth it a Village, in his daies, not unlovely: and truly writeth, that in times past it had been a noble City. For, to say nothing of Roman peeces of coine oftentimes there ploughed up, nor of the di∣stance in the old Itinerary, the very signification of the name may probably prove, that this was the very same City, which Antonine the Emperor termed DUROLI∣PONTE, amisse, in stead of DUROSIPONTE. For Durosi-ponte (pardon me I pray you for [ D] changing one letter) soundeth in the British tongue, A bridge over the water Ose. And that this River is named indifferently and without distinction, Vse, Ise, Ose, and Ouse, all men confesse. But when this name was under the Danes quite abolished, it began to be called Gormoncester, of Gormon the Dane, unto whom after agreement of peace King Aelfred granted these Provinces. Hereto, this old Verse giveth testimony.

Gormonis à castri nomine, nomen habet. Gormonchester, at this howre, Takes the name of Gormons Towre.

This is that Gormon of whom John Picus an old Author, writeth in this wise: King [ E] Aelfred conquered and subdued the Danes, so that they gave what hostages hee would for assu∣rance, either to be packing out of the Land, or else to become Christians. Which thing also was effected. For, their King Guthrum, whom they call Gormond, with thirty of his Nobles and well neere all his people was baptized; and adopted by Aelfred as his Sonne, and by him named Athelstan. Whereupon he remained heere; and the Provinces of the East-English and of the Northumbrians were given to him: that continuing in his allegiance, under the Kings protecti∣on, he might cherish and also maintain them as his inheritance, which he had formerly overrun with spoile and robbery. Neither would this be omitted, that some also of those anci∣ent Writers have termed this place Gumicester, and Gumicastrum, avoucheth withall, that Machutus a Bishop had heere his Episcopall See. And by the name of Gumi∣cester [ F] King Henry the Third granted it to his sonne Edmund Earle of Lancaster.

Ouse making haste speedily from hence, when he was about to enter into Cambridge∣shire, passeth through most delightsome medowes hard by a proper and faire towne, which sometime in the English-Saxon tongue was called Slepe, and now S. Ives, of

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[ A] Ivo a Persian Bishop, who, as they write, about the yeare of Christ 600. travailed through England, preached diligently the Word of God, and to this Towne, wherein he left this life, left also his name. From whence notwithstanding shortly after the religious persons translated his body to Ramsey Abbay.

Turning aside from hence scarce three miles, wee saw Somersham a faire dwelling house, of late dayes belonging to the Bishops of Ely, which Earle Brithnot in the yeare 991. gave to Ely Church, and James Stanley, the lavish, and expencefull Bi∣shop, enlarged with new buildings. A little above that most wealthy Abbay Ramsey was situate amiddest the Fennes, where the Rivers become standing waters, when they have once found a soft kinde of Soile.

[ B] The description of this place have here if it please you, out of the private History of this Abbay. Ramsey, that is, The Rams Isle, on the West side (for on other sides fennish grounds through which one cannot passe, stretch out farre and wide) is severed from the firme ground almost two bow-shots off by certaine uneven and quaggy miry plots. Which place being won in times past to receive gently within the bosome and brinkes thereof, Vessels arriving there with milde gales of winde in a shallow River onely: now through great labour and cost after the foule and dirty quagmires aforesaid were stopped up with heapes of wood, gravell and stones together, men may passe into on foote on the same side upon a dry causey: and it lieth out in length almost two miles, but spreadeth not all out so much in bredth: which notwith∣standing is beset round about with beautifull rowes of Alder-trees, and reed plots, that with [ C] fresh greene canes and streight bulrushes among, make a faire and pleasant shew; and before it was inhabited, garnished and bedecked all over with many sorts of trees, but of wilde Ashs especially, in great aboundance. But now after longer tract of time, part of these groves and woods being cut downe, it is become arable ground of a very fat and plentifull mould, for fruit rich, pleasant for corne, planted with gardens, wealthy in pastures, and in the Spring time, the medowes arraied with pleasant flowers smile upon the beholders: and the whole Island seemeth embroidered, as it were, with variety of gay colours. Besides that, it is compassed all about with Meres full of Eeles, and pooles replenished with fish of many sorts, and with fowle there bred and nourished. Of which Meres, one is called after the name of the Island Ramsey Mere, farre excelling all the other waters adjoyning, in beauty and fertility, on that side [ D] where the Isle is counted bigger and the wood thicker, flowing daintily by the sandy banke there∣of, yeeldeth a very delectable sight to behold: in the very gulfes whereof by casting as well of great wide mashed nets, as of other sorts, by laying also of hookes baited, and other instruments devised by fishers craft, are caught oftentimes and drawne certaine Pikes of an huge and won∣derfull bignesse, which the Inhabitants call Hakeds: and albeit the fowlers doe continually haunt the place and catch great store of young water-fowle, yet there is abundance alwaies that remaineth untaken. Furthermore that History sheweth at large, how Ailwin a man of the bloud royall, and for the speciall great authority and favour that hee had with the King, sirnamed Healf-Koning, that is, Halfe King, being admonished and mooved thereunto by a Fishers dreame built it; how Oswald the Bishop furthered and enlar∣ged [ E] it; how Kings and others endowed it with so faire revenewes, that for the maintenance of threescore Monkes it might dispend by the yeare seven thousand pounds of our English money. But seeing it is now pulled downe and destroyed, some may thinke I have already spoken overmuch thereof. Yet hereto I will annexe out of the same Authour the Epitaph of Ailwins Tombe, for that it exhibi∣teth unto us an unusuall and strange title of a Dignity.

HIC REQUIESCIT AILWINUS INCLI∣TI [ F] REGIS EADGARI COGNATUS, TO∣TIUS ANGLIAE ALDERMANNUS, ET HUJUS SACRI COENOBII MIRACU∣LOSUS FUNDATOR.

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HERE RESTETH AILWIN COZIN TO [ A] THE NOBLE KING EADGAR, ALDER∣MAN OF ALL ENGLAND, AND OF THIS HOLY ABBAY THE MIRACULOUS FOUNDER.

From hence to Peterborough, which is about ten miles off, King Canutus, because travailing that way and finding it very combersome by reason of swelling Brookes [ B] and sloughs, with great cost and labour made a paved Causey, which our Historians call Kings-delfe, not farre from that great Lake Wittlesmere. And as this Abbay did adorne the East side of the Shire, so, the middle thereof was beautified by Salrie, which the second Simon de Sancto Lizio Earle of Huntingdon built. From which not farre, is Cunnington, holden anciently of the Honour of Huntingdon: where, within a foure square Trench, are to be seene expresse remaines of an ancient Castle, which as also Saltrie, was by the gift of Canutus, the seat of Turkill that Dane, who abode heere among the East English, and sent for Sueno King of Denmarke to make spoile of England. After whose departure, Waldeof the sonne of Siward Earle of Northum∣berland enjoyed it, who married Judith Niece to William the Conquerour by his si∣ster [ C] on the mothers side: by whose eldest daughter it came to the royall family of Scotland. For she, by a second marriage, matched with David Earle of Huntingdon (who afterwards obtained the Kingdome of Scotland) being the younger sonne of Malcolm Can-mor, King of Scots, and of Margaret his wife descended of the royall line of the English-Saxons: For, shee was Niece to King Edmund Iron-side by his sonne Edward sirnamed, The Banished. David had a sonne named Henry, and Henry had another named David Earle of Huntingdon, by one of whose daughters, Isabel, Cunnington and other lands by right of marriage descended to Sir Robert Bruse: from whose eldest sonne Robert sirnamed the Noble, James King of Great Britaine line∣ally deriveth his Descent: and from Bernard his younger sonne, unto whom this [ D] Cunnington with Exton fell, Sir Robert Cotton Knight is lineally descended; who over and beside other vertues, being a singular lover and searcher of Antiquities, having gathered with great charges from all places the Monuments of venerable Antiquity, hath heere begunne a famous Cabinet, whence of his singular courtesie, hee hath oftentimes given me great light in these darksome obscurities.

But these Quarters, considering the ground lying so low, and for many moneths in the yeare surrounded and drowned, in some places also floting (as it were) and ho∣ven up with the waters, are not free from the offensive noisomnesse of Meres and the unwholesome aire of the Fennes. Here for sixe miles in length and three in breadth that cleare deepe and fishfull Mere named Wittles-mere spreadeth it selfe, which as [ E] other Meres in this Tract, doth sometimes in Calmes and faire weather sodainly rise tempestuously, as it were, into violent water-quakes to the danger of the poore fi∣shermen, by reason, as some thinke, of evaporations breaking violently out of the bowels of the earth. As for the unhealthinesse of the place, whereunto onely stran∣gers, and not the natives there are subject, who live long and healthfully, there is a∣mends made, as they account it, by the commodity of fishing, the plentifull feeding, and the abundance of turfe gotten for fewell. For, King Cnut gave commandement by Turkill the Dane, of whom ere while I spake, That to every Village standing about the Fennes, there should bee set out a severall Marsh: who so divided the ground, that each Village by it selfe should have in proper use and occupation so much of the very maine Marsh, [ F] as the firme ground of every such Village touched the Marsh lying just against it. And be ordained that no Village might either digge or mow in the Marsh of another without licence, but that the pasture therein should lye all in common, that is, Horne under horne, for the pre∣servation of peace and concord among them. But thus much of this matter.

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[ A] When the sonnes and servants of the said King Cnut, sent for from Peterborough to Ramsey, were in passing over that Lake, There fell upon them, as they were cheerefull under saile and lifting up their voices with joyfull shoutings, most untoward and unhappy windes, wherewith a turbulent and tempestuous storme arose, that enclosed them on every side, so that laying aside all hope, they were in utter despaire of their life, security, or any helpe at all. But such was the mercifull clemency of Almighty God, that it forsooke them not wholy, nor suffered the most cruell Gulfe of the waters to swallow them up all quite, but by his providence some of them he delivered mercifully out of those furious and raging waves: but others againe according to his just and secret judgement he permitted amiddest those billowes to passe out of this fraile and mortall life. And when the fame of so fearefull a danger was noised abroad and [ B] come to the Kings eares, there fell a mighty trembling and quaking upon him: but being com∣forted and releeved by the counsaile of his Nobles and freinds, for to prevent in time to come all future mishaps by occasion of that outragious monster, hee ordained that his souldiers and servants with their swords and skeins should set out and marke a certaine Ditch in the Mari∣shes lying thereby, betweene Ramsey and Whittlesey, and afterwards that workemen and la∣bourers should skoure and clense them: whereupon, as I have learned of ancient predecessours of good credite, the said Ditch by some of the neighbour Inhabitants tooke the name Swerdes∣delfe, upon that marking out by swords: and some would have it to bee termed Cnouts-delfe according to the name of the same King. Yet commonly at this day they call it Steeds dike: and it is counted the limit and bound between this County and Cambridge-shire.

[ C] In the East side of this Shire, Kinnibantum Castle, now called Kimbolton, the ha∣bitation in times past of the Mandevilles, afterwards of the Bouns and Staffords, and at this day of the Wingfields, doth make a faire shew. Under which was Stoneley a prety Abbay founded by the Bigrames. A little from hence is Awkenbury, which King John gave to David Earle of Huntingdon: and John sirnamed the Scot, his sonne, unto Sir Stephen Segrave: of whom I am the more willing to make mention, for that he was one of those Courtiers who hath taught us, That there is no power al∣waies powerfull. Hardly and with much adoe hee climbed to an eminent and high estate, with great thought and care hee kept it, and as sodainely hee was dejected from it: For, in his youth, of a Clerke he became a Knight, and albeit hee was but of meane [ D] parentage, yet through his industry toward his later dayes so enriched and advanced, that being ranged with the great Peeres of the Realme, hee was reputed chiefe Justice of England, and managed at his pleasure after a sort all the affaires of State. But in the end he lost the Kings favour quite, and to his dying day lay close in a Cloyster: and who before time from a Clerkship betooke himselfe through arrogancy to secular service, returning againe to the office of a Clerke, resumed the shaven crowne which hee had forsaken without the counsell and advise of the Bishop. Not farre from hence is Leighton, where Sir Gervase Clifton knight, lately made Baron Clifton, beganne to build a goodly house, and close to it lyeth Spaldwicke, which King Henry the First gave unto the Church of Lincolne for amends of a losse, when hee erected the Bishopricke of Ely, taken out of the Dio∣cesse [ E] of Lincolne, as I have before shewed.

But where the River Nen entreth into this Shire, it runneth fast by Elton the seat of the ancient Family of the Sapcots, where is a private Chappell of singular worke∣manship and most artificiall glasse windowes, erected by Lady Elizabeth Dinham the widow of Baron Fitz-warin, married into the said Family. But a little higher, there stood a little City more ancient than all these, neere unto Walmsford: which Henry of Huntingdon calleth Caer Dorm and Dormeceaster upon the River Nen, and reporteth to have beene utterly rased before his time. This was doubtlesse that DUROBRI∣VAE, that is, The River passage, that Antonine the Emperour speaketh of, and now in the very same sense is called Dornford neere unto Chesterton, which beside peeces of [ F] ancient Coine daily found in it, sheweth apparant tokens of a City overthrowne. For, to it there leadeth directly from Huntingdon a Roman Portway: and a little a∣bove Stilton, which in times past was called Stichilton, it is seene with an high banke, and in an ancient Saxon Charter termed Ermingstreat. This Street now runneth here through the middest of a foure square Fort, the North side whereof was fensed

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with Wals, all the other sides with a Rampire of earth onely. Neere unto which [ A] were digged up not long since Cofins or Sepulchres of stone in the ground of R. Be∣vill, of an ancient house in this Shire. Some verily thinke that this City tooke up both bankes of the River; and there bee of opinion that the little Village Cster standing upon the other banke was parcell thereof. Surely to this opinion of theirs maketh much the testimony of an ancient story, which sheweth that there was a place by Nen called Dormund-caster, in which when Kinneburga had built a little Monastery, it began to be called first Kinneburge-caster, and afterwards short Caster. This Kinneburga the most Christian daughter of the Pagan King Penda, and wife to Alfred King of the Northumbrians (changed her Princely State into the service of Christ, if I may use the words of an ancient Writer) and governed this Monastery of her owne, as [ B] Prioresse or mother of the Nunnes there. Which afterwards, about the yeare of Salva∣tion 1010. by the furious Danes was made levell with the ground. But where this River is ready to leave this County, it passeth hard by an ancient house called Bottle-bridge (so is it now termed short for Botolph-bridge) which the Draitons and Lovets brought from R. Gimels by hereditary succession into the Family of the Shirleies. And to this house adjoyneth Overton, now corruptly called Orton, which being by felo∣ny forfait and confiscate, Neele Lovetoft redeemed againe of King John: and the said Noeles sister and coheire being wedded unto Hubert aliàs Robert de Brounford, brought him children, who assumed unto them the sirname of Lovetoft.

This County of Huntingdon when the English-Saxons Empire began now to [ C] decline, had Siward an Earle by Office, and not inheritance: For as yet there were no Earles in England by inheritance, but the Rulers of Provinces, after the custome of that age were termed Earles, with addition of the Earledome of this or that Pro∣vince whereof they had the rule for the time: as this Siward whiles he governed this County was called Earle of Huntingdon; whereas afterwards being Ruler of Nor∣thumberland, they named him Earle of Northumberland. He had a sonne named Wal∣deof, who under the Title of Earle had likewise the government of this Province, standing in favour as he did with William the Conquerour whose Niece Judith by his sister of the mothers side, hee had married, but by him beheaded for entring into a conspiracy against him. The eldest daughter of this Waldeof (as William Gemiticensis [ D] reporteth) Simon de Senlys or S. Liz tooke to wife, together with the Earldome of Hun∣tingdon, and of her begat a sonne named Simon. But after that the said Simon was dead, Da∣vid brother to Maud the Holy, Queene of England (who afterwards became King of Scots) married his wife by whom hee had a sonne named Henry. But in processe of time, as fortune and Princes favour varied, one while the Scots, another while the Sent Lizes enjoyed this dignity: First Henry the sonne of David aforesaid: then Simon S. Liz sonne of Simon the first: after him Malcolm King of Scots, sonne to Earle Hen∣ry: and after his death Simon Sent Liz the third who dying without issue, William King of Scots and brother to Malcolm succeeded: for, so wrote he that then lived, Raphe de Diceto in the yeare 1185. When Simon (saith hee) the sonne of Earle Simon was [ E] departed without children, the King restored the Earldome of Huntingdon with the Perti∣nences unto William King of the Scots. Then his brother David, and Davids sonne John sirnamed Scot, Earle of Chester, who dying without issue, and Alexander the third that had married the daughter of our King Henry the Third, having for a time borne this Title, the Scots by occasion of incident warres, lost that honour, and with it a very faire inheritance in England. A good while after King Edward the Third created Sir William Clinton Earle of Huntingdon who dyed issuelesse: And in his roome there was placed by King Richard the Second, Guiseard of Engolisme, a Gascoine, who was his Governour in his minority: and after his death succee∣ded Iohn Holland, Iohn his sonne (who was stiled Duke of Excester, Earle of Hunting∣don [ F] and Ivory, Lord of Sparre, Admirall of England and Ireland, Lieutenant of Aquitane, and Constable of the Towre of London) and his sonne likewise Henry, successively, who were Dukes also of Excester. This is that very same Henry Duke of Excester whom Philip Comines, as himselfe witnesseth, saw begging bare foote in the Low

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[ A] Countries, whiles he stood firme and fast unto the house of Lancaster, albeit he had married King Edward the Fourth his owne sister. Then Thomas Grey, who became afterward Marquesse Dorset, a little while enjoyed that honour. Also it is evident out of the Records, that William Herbert Earle of Pembroch brought in againe the Charter of creation, whereby his father was made Earle of Pembroch, into the Chancery for to be cancelled: and that King Edward the Fourth in the seventeenth of his Raigne created him Earle of Huntingdon, at such time as he granted the Title of Pembroch to the Prince his sonne. Afterward King Henry the Eighth conferred that honour upon George Lord Hastings: after whom succeeded his sonne Francis, and after him likewise his sonne Henry, a right honourable Personage, commended [ B] both for true Nobility and Piety. But whereas hee dyed without issue, his brother Sir George Hastings succeeded: and after him his Grandchilde Henry by his sonne, who at this day enjoyeth the said honour.

In this little Shire are numbered Parishes. 78.

Notes

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