Britain, or A chorographicall description of the most flourishing kingdomes, England, Scotland, and Ireland, and the ilands adjoyning, out of the depth of antiquitie beautified vvith mappes of the severall shires of England: vvritten first in Latine by William Camden Clarenceux K. of A. Translated newly into English by Philémon Holland Doctour in Physick: finally, revised, amended, and enlarged with sundry additions by the said author.

[ A]

TRINOBANTES.

[ B] THey, whom Caesar calleth TRINOBANTES, Pto∣lomee and Tacitus, TRINOANTES, were next neighbours to the Cattieuchlani, inhabiting in those coun∣tries, which now having changed their names are com∣monly termed Middlesex and Essex. Whence that an∣cient name sprung,* 1.1 I dare not verily so much as guesse, unlesse it come of the British word Tre-Nant, which is as much as Townes in a vale. For this whole region in a maner lieth low in a valley upon the Tamis. [ C] But I doe not greatly please my selfe in this my conjecture. And yet they that inhabited Galloway in Scotland, lying altogether lowe in vallies were of old time in the British tongue called Noantes and Novantes, and in the Vaile of Rhine, in French named Le Vaule, the people in old time called Nantuates, had both their abode and their name thence: so that this conjecture of mine may seeme as probable as that of others, who over curiously have derived Trino∣bantes, of Troy, as a man would say Troia Nova, that is, New Troy. But I [ D] wish them well, and that heerein they may please themselves. These were in Cae∣sars time of all these countries well neere the strongest City or State (for, ever∣more he termeth by the name of Civitas,* 1.2 a whole people living under the same lawe) and their King in those daies, was Immanuentius, who being slaine by Cassibelinus, his sonne Mandubratius saving his life by flight, went into Gaule to Caesar, and putting himselfe under his protection returned with him into Britaine. At which time these Arinobantes petitioned Caesar by their Ambassadors, that he would defend Mandubratius from the injuries of Cas∣sibelinus, [ E] and resend him to the State, that he might be Governour and beare rule over them: which being done, they gave forty Hostages, and were the first of all the Britanes that yeelded themselves under his allegeance. This Man∣dubratius, that I may note so much by the way, is evermore called by Eutro∣pius, Bede,* 1.3 and the later writers, Androgeus. But whence this diversitie of the name should arise, I am altogether ignorant: unlesse that be true, which I have learned from a very skilfull man in the British history and language both, that this name Androgeus was given unto him for his lewdnesse and perfidi∣ous [ F] treason. For, the signification of wickednesse doth most plainely shew it selfe in it: And in the Booke of Triades, among the three Traitors of Britaine, he is counted the most villanous; in that he was the first that made way to bring the forraine Romanes into Britaine, and betraied his Country. After Mandubra∣tius,

when as now by reason of hote ciuill warres, Britaine was neglected of the [ A] Romanes and left unto his owne Princes and lawes, certaine it is that Cunobe∣line ruled as King in these parts, of whose coine I exhibit heere unto you one or two peeces, although I have already shewed the very same and others heeretofore.

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[ B] [ C]

* 1.4Admimus this mans Sonne banished by his Father fled with a small retinue about him to the Romane Emperour Cajus Caligula, and yeelded himselfe. Which so puffed up the young Emperours minde, that as if all the Island had absolutely and wholly yeelded into his hands, he sent glorious letters to Rome, admonishing oftentimes the bearers thereof not to deliver them unto the Consuls, but in the Temple of Mars, and in a frequent assembly of the Senate. When Cunobelinus was dead, Aulius Plautius by commission from Claudius the Emperour set upon this Country.* 1.5 One of Cunobilinus his Sonnes named Togodumnus he slew, [ D] and another called Catacratus he overthrew in the field, over whom also, as we finde in the Capitollin Record of the Romane Triumphes, he rode Ovant in triumph: and that, with so great honour as Suetonius writeth, that Claudi∣us the Emperour went side by side with him both in his going to the Capitoll and also in his returne from thence. And he himselfe shortly after transporting his forces hither, brought these parts within few Moneths into the forme of a Pro∣vince. Thence-forth the Trinobantes rested a while in peace, but that under [ E] the Empire of Nero they privily entered into a conspiracy with the Iceni to shake off the Romanes yoke. But Suetonius Paulinus, as Tacitus recordeth, quickly quenched this flame of sedition with a great effusion of Britanes bloud. When the Romane Empire was at length come to an end in Britane, Vortigern the Britane, gave to the Saxons (who kept him prisoner) for his ransome this Country with others, as Ninnius writeth: and it had his peculiar Kings for a long time together, but such as held by homage sometimes of the Kentish Kings, sometimes of the Mercians. Among whom Sebert in the yeere 603. was the [ F] first that became a Christian: and Suthred the last King, who being vanqui∣shed by Egbert in the yeere 804. left the Kingdome unto the West-Saxons: But heereof elsewhere more largely: Now let us survey the very Country.

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MIDDLE SEX OLIMA TRINOBAN¦TIBVS habitata

[illustration]

[ A]

MIDLE-SEX.

MIDLE-SEX taketh name of the Middle-Saxons, because the Inhabitants thereof were in the middest betweene East-Sa∣xons, West-Saxons, South-Saxons, and those whom that age called Mercians. It is severed from Buckingham-shire by the River Cole which the Britans called Co, on the West-side, from Hertford-shire on the North-side by a knowne crooked [ B] limite, from Essex on the East with the River Lea, from Sur∣rey and Kent on the South by the Tamis. It being comprised within short Bounds lyeth out in length, where it is longest twenty miles, and in the narrowest place it is scant twelve miles over. For aire passing temperate, and for Soile fertile, with sumptuous houses and prety Townes on all sides pleasantly beautified: and every where offereth to the view many things memorable. By the River Cole,* 1.6 where it entreth first into this Shire, wee saw Breakespeare an an∣cient house belonging to a Family so sirnamed, out of which came Pope Hadrian the Fourth, of whom erewhile I spake: then, Haresfeld, in old time Herefelle, the possession in King William the Conquerours daies of Richard the * 1.7 * 1.8 sonne of Counte [ C] Gislebert. More Southward, Vxbridge anciently Woxbridge a Towne of later time built, and full of Innes, stretcheth out in length. Beneath which is Draiton, reedi∣fied by the Barons Paget; Colham, which from the Barons Le Strange came to the Earles of Darby: and Stanwell ever since the Normans comming in, unto our fa∣thers dayes the habitation of the Family of Windesore. And not farre from hence, Cole after it hath made certaine scattering medow Islands, at two small mouthes fal∣leth into Tamis. Along the side whereof, as a Germane Poet in this our age pretily versified,

Tot campos, Sylvas, tot regia tecta, tot hortos Artifici dextrâ excultos, tot vidimus arces, [ D] Ut nunc Ausonio Tamisis cum Tybride certet. So many fields and pleasant woods, so many princely Bowres, And Palaces we saw besides, so many stately Towres, So many gardens trimly dress'd by curious hand which are, That now with Romane Tyberis the Tamis may well compare.

At the very first entrance,* 1.9 Stanes in the Saxon tongue 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉 offereth it selfe to our sight, where Tamis hath a woodden Bridge over it. This name it tooke of a meere∣stone heere in times past set up to marke out the jurisdiction that the City of London hath in the River.* 1.10 Neere unto this stone is that most famous Medow Runingmead commonly called Renimed: in which the Baronage of England assembled in great [ E] number in the yeere 1215. to exact their Liberties of King John. Whereof in the marriage of Tame and Isis the Poet wrote thus, speaking of the Tamis that runneth hard by.

Subluit hic pratum, quod dixit Renimed Anglus, Quo sedere duces armis annísque verendi, Regis Joannis cuperent qui vertere sceptrum, Edwardi Sancti dum leges juráque vellent Principe contempto tenebroso è carcere duci: Hinc sonnere tubae plusquam civilia bella, Venit & hinc refugus nostras Lodovicus in orat. [ F] Hence runnes it hard by Medow greene, in English RENIMED, Where close in counsell sat the Lords, as well for armour dred As ancient yeeres right reverend: who sought their soveraigne King John to depose from regall Throne: Whiles that they ment to bring (Contemning Prince) S. Edwards lawes and liberties againe,

Inure, which had long time forlet a quite forgotten laine. [ A] Hence more than civill Warres, aloud the trumpets ganne to sound, Hence Lewis of France, who soone retir'd, set foot on English ground.

From thence it passeth by Coway-stakes at Lalam, where we said that Caesar crossed over the Tamis, and the Britans fensed the banke and Fourd against him with stakes, whereof it had the name.* 1.11 Tamis passing downe from thence seeth above it Harrow, the highest hill of all this Country, under which Southward there lie for a long way together exceeding rich and fruitfull fields, especially about Heston a small Village that yeeldeth so fine floure for manchet that a long time it hath served for the Kings mouth.* 1.12 Within a little of it is Hanworth, where stands a prety house of the Kings which King Henry the Eighth tooke exceeding delight in, as being a retiring place [ B] for his solace and voluptuous pleasure.* 1.13 Afterwards it runneth hard by Hampton Court a royall Palace of the Kings, a worke in truth of admirable magnificence built out of the ground by Thomas Wolsey Cardinall, in ostentation of his riches, when for very pride, being otherwise a most prudent man, hee was not able to mannage his minde. But it was made an Honour, enlarged and finished by King Henry the Eighth so amply, as it containeth within it five severall inner Courts passing large, environed with very faire buildings wrought right curiously, and goodly to behold. Of which Leland writeth thus:

Est locus insolito rerum splendore superbus, Alluitúrque vaga Tamisini fluminis unda, [ C] Nomine ab antiquo jam tempore dictus Avona. Hîc Rex Henricus taleis Octavius aedes Erexit, qualeis toto Sol aureus orbe Non vidit. A stately place for rare and glorious shew There is, which Tamis with wandring streame doth dowsse; Times past, by name of Avon men it knew; Heere Henry the Eigth of that name, built an house So sumptuous, as that on such an one (Seeke through the World,) the bright Sunne never shone. [ D]

And another in the Nuptiall Poeme of Tame and Isis.

Alluit Hamptonam celebrem quae laxior urbis Mentitur formam spacijs; hanc condidit aulam Purpureus pater ille gravis, gravis ille sacerdos Wolsaeus, fortuna favos cui ••elle repletos Obtulit, heu tandem foriunae dona dolores. He runnes by HAMPTON, which for spacious seat Seemes City-like: Of this faire Courtly Hall First founder was a Priest and Prelate great Wolsey, that grave and glorious Cardinall: [ E] Fortune on him had pour'd her gifts full fast, But Fortunes Blisse, Alas, prov'd Bale at last.

And now with a winding reach the River bendeth his course Northward by Gistleworth,* 1.14 for so was that called in old time, which now is Thistleworth. Where sometime stood the Palace of Richard King of Romans and Earle of Cornwall, which the Londoners in a tumultuous broile burnt to the ground.

From hence Sion sheweth it selfe, a little Monastery so named of the most holy Mount Sion: Which King Henry the Fifth, when he had expelled thence the Monkes aliens, built for religious Virgins to the honor of our Saviour, the Virgine Mary, and Saint Briget of Sion: like as he founded another on the Rivers side over against it for [ F] the Carthusian Monkes, named Jesu of Bethelem. In this Sion, hee appointed to the Glory of God so many Nunnes, Priests, and lay brethren divided a part within their severall wals, as were in number equall to Christ his Apostles and Disciples: upon whom when he had bestowed sufficient living he provided by a law, that contenting

[ A] themselves therewith, they should take no more of any man: but what overplus so∣ever remained of their yearely revenew, they should bestow it upon the poore. But after that in our forefathers time those religious Votaries were cast out, and it be∣came a retiring house of the Duke of Somerset, who plucked downe the Church, and there began a new house. Under this the small water Brent issueth into the Ta∣mis, which springing out of a Pond vulgarly called Brouns-well, for Brentwell, that is, in old English Frog-well, passeth downe betweene Hendon, which Archbishop Dun∣stan borne for the advancement of Monkes, purchased for some few golde Bizan∣tines,* 1.15 which were Imperiall peeces of Gold coined at Bizantium or Constantinople, and gave to the Monks of Saint Peter of Westminster: and Hamsted-hils (from whence [ B] you have a most pleasant prospect to the most beautifull City of London, and the lovely Country about it.) Over which the ancient Roman military way led to Veru∣lam or Saint Albans by Edge-worth, and not by High-gate as now, which new way was opened by the Bishops of London about some 300. yeares since. But to returne, Brent into whom all the small Rillets of these parts resort, runneth on by Brentstreat, an Hamlet to whom it imparted his name, watereth Hanger-wood, Hanwell, Oisterly Parke, where Sir Thomas Gresham built a faire large house: and so neere his fall into the Tamis giveth name to Brentford a faire throughfaire, and frequent Mercat.

Neere which in the yeare 1116. King Edmond sirnamed Ironside, so fiercely charged upon the Danes whom hee compelled by force to retire from the Siege of [ C] London, that as fast as their horses could make way, they fled, not without their great losse. From Stanes hitherto, all that lyeth betweene London highway (which goeth through Hounslow) and the Tamis was called the Forrest or Warren of Stanes, untill that King Henry the Third, as in his Charter we reade; Disforrested and dis∣warened it.* 1.16 Then by the Tamis side is Fulham, in the English Saxon tongue 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, that is, The place of Fowles: the greatest credit and honour whereof is the Bishop of Londons house standing there conveniently, not farre from the City, albeit not so healthfully.* 1.17 Also Chelsey, so named of a shelfe of Sand in the River Tamis as some suppose, but in Records it is named Chelche-hith: a place garnished with faire and stately houses, by King Henry the Eighth, by William Powlet the first Marquesse of [ D] Winchester, and by others.

But LONDON,* 1.18 the Epitome or Breviary of all Britaine, the seat of the British Em∣pire, and the Kings of Englands Chamber, so much overtoppeth all these, as according to the Poet, Inter viburna Cupress••s, that is, the Cypresse-tree amongst the Viornes. Ta∣citus, Ptolomee, and Antonine call it LONDINIUM, and LONGIDINIUM: Ammi∣anus LUNDINUM and AUGUSTA; Stephen in his Cities 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, our Bri∣tans Lundayn; the old Saxons 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉: Stran∣gers Londra and Londres: the inhabitants London: Fabulous writers Troja nova, that is, New Troy, Dinas Belin, that is, Belins City, and Caer Lud of King Lud, whom they write to have reedified it and given it the name. But these few names and originall [ E] derivations together with Erasmus his conjecture, who deriveth it from Lindum a City in the Isle Rhodes I willingly leave to such as well like it. For mine owne part; seeing that Caesar and Strabo doe write that the ancient Britains called those Woods and groves by the names of Cities and Townes, which they had fenced with trees cast downe and plashed to stoppe up all passage: seeing also I have understood that such woods or groves are in the British tongue named Ll••wn,* 1.19 I encline a little to the opinion that London thence tooke name, as one would say, by way of excellency The City, or A City thicke of trees. But if heerein I faile of the truth, let me with good leave give my conjecture (and heere would I have no man to charge me with incon∣stancy while I disport in conjecture) that whence it had the fame, thence also it tooke [ F] the name, even from ships, which the Britains in their language call Lhong: so that Londinum may seeme to sound as much as a ship-Rode, or City of ships. For, the Bri∣tains tearme a City Dinas, whence the Latines have fetched their Dinum.* 1.20 And hence it is, that elsewhere it is called LONGIDINIUM, and in the funerall song or Dump of a most ancient British * 1.21 Bard, Lhong-porth, that is, an harbour or haven of ships; and by

this very terme Bononia, or Bolen in France, which Ptolomee calleth Gessoriacum Na∣vale, [ A] in the British Glossarie is named Bolung-long. For, many Cities have drawne their names from Ships, as Naupactus, Naustathmos, Nauplia, Navalia Augusti, &c. But of these none hath better right to assume unto it the name of a Ship-Rode, or Ha∣ven, than our London. For, in regard of both Elements most blessed and happy it is, as being situate in a rich and fertile Soile, abounding with plentifull store of all things and on the gentle ascent and rising of an hill, hard by the Tamis side, the most milde Merchant, as one would say, of all things that the World doth yeeld: which swelling at certaine set houres with the Ocean-tides, by his safe and deepe chanell able to en∣tertaine the greatest Ships that bee, daily bringeth in so great riches from all parts, that it striveth at this day with the Mart-townes of Christendome for the second prise, [ B] and affoordeth a most sure and beautifull Roade for shipping. A man would say that seeth the shipping there, that it is, as it were, a very Wood of trees disbranched to make glades and let in light: So shaded it is with masts and failes.

Who was the first founder, is by long time growne out of knowledge, and in truth very few Cities there are that know their own first founders, considering they grew up to their greatnesse by little and little. But as other Cities so this of ours fathereth her originall upon the Trojanes, as verily beleeving that Brutus the Nephew in the third descent of Great Aeneas was the builder thereof. But whosoever founded it, the hap∣py and fortunate estate thereof hath given good proofe, that built it was in a good houre and marked for life, and long continuance. And that it is for antiquity ho∣nourable, [ C] Ammianus Marcellinus giveth us to understand, who called it in his times, and that was 1200. yeares agoe, an old towne: and Cornelius Tacitus in like manner, who in Nero his daies 1540. yeares since, reported it to have been a place very famous for fresh Trade, concourse of Merchants, and great store of victuals and all things necessary. This onely at that time was wanting to the glory thereof, that it had the name nei∣ther of Free City nor of Colony. Neither verily could it have stood with the Romans profit, if a City flourishing with merchandize should have enjoyed the right of a Colony or Free City. And therefore it was, as I suppose, that they ordained it to bee a Praefecture:* 1.22 for so they termed townes where Marts were kept and Justice ministred: yet so as that they had no Magistrates of their owne, but rulers were sent every year [ D] to governe in them, and for to minister Law, which in publique matters, namely of tax, tributes, tolles, customes, warfare, &c. they should have from the Senate of Rome. Hence it commeth that Tacitus the Panegyrist, and Marcellinus call it onely a towne. And although it was not in name loftier, yet in welth, riches and prosperity it flouri∣shed as much as any other, yea and continued in manner alwaies the same under the dominion of Romans, English-Saxons, and Normans, seldome or never afflicted with any great calamities. In the Raigne of Nero, when the Britans had conspired to re∣cover and resume their liberty under the leading of Boadicia, the Londoners could not with all their weeping and teares hold Suetonius Paulinus, but that after hee had levied a power of the Citizens to aide him, hee would needs dislodge and remove [ E] from thence, leaving the City naked to the enemy: who foorthwith surprised and slew some few, whom either weaknesse of sex, feeblenesse of age, or sweetnesse of the place had deteined there. Neither had it susteined lesse losse and misery at the hands of the French, if it had not soddenly and beyond all expectation by Gods pro∣vidence beene releeved. For when C. Alectus had by a deceitfull wile made away C. Carausius a Clive-lander,* 1.23 who taking vantage of our rough seas, of Dioclesians dan∣gerous warres in the East, and withall presuming of the French, and most venterous Mariners and servitors at sea, had withheld to himselfe the revenewes of Britain and Holland, and borne for the space of six yeares the title of Emperour Augustus, as his coines very often found heere doe shew: when M. Aurelius Asclepiodotus likewise had [ F] in a battaile slain Alectus in the third year now of his usurpation of the imperiall pur∣ple and state; those French, who remained alive after the fight, hasting to London forthwith would have sacked the City, had not the Tamis, which never failed to helpe the Londoners, very fitly brought in the Roman souldiers, who by reason of a

[ A] fogge at Sea were severed from the Navie. For, they put the Barbarians to the sword all the City over, and thereby gave the Citizens not onely safety by the slaughter of their enemies, but also pleasure in the beholding of such a sight. And then it was, as our Chro∣nicles record, that Lucius Gallus was slaine by a little Brookes side, which ran through the middle almost of the City, and of him was in British called Nant-Gall, in Eng∣lish Walbrooke: which name remaineth still in a Street, under which there is a sewer within the ground to ridde away filth;* 1.24 not farre from London-stone, which I take to have beene a Milliary, or Milemarke, such as was in the Mercate place of Rome: From which was taken the dimension of all journies every way, considering it is in the very mids of the City, as it lyeth in length. Neither am I perswaded that London [ B] was as yet walled. Howbeit within a little while after, our Histories report, that Constantine the Great at the request of his mother Helena, did first fense it about with a Wall made of rough stone and British brickes,* 1.25 which tooke up in compasse three miles or thereabout: so as it enclosed the modell of the City, almost foure square but not equall on every side, considering that from West to East it is farre longer, than from South to North. That part of this Wall which stood along the Tamis side is by the continuall flowing and washing of the River fallen downe and gone. Yet there appeared certaine remaines thereof in King Henry the Seconds time, as Fitz-Stephen, who then lived, hath written. The rest now standing is stronger toward the North,* 1.26 as which not many yeares since was reedified by the meanes of Jotceline Lord [ C] Major of London, became of a sodaine new, as it were, and fresh againe. But toward East and West, although the Barons in old time during their warres repaired and re∣newed it with the Jewes houses then demolished, yet is it all throughout in decay. For Londoners, like to those old Lacedemonians laugh at strong walled Cities, as cotte houses for Women, thinking their owne City sufficiently fensed when it is for∣tified with men and not with stones.* 1.27 This Wall giveth entrance at seven principall Gates, (for wittingly I omit the smaller) which as they have beene newly repaired, so they have had also new names given unto them.

On the West side there be two: to wit Lud-gate of king Lud, or Flud-gate, as Le∣land is of opinion, of a little floud running beneath it (like as the Gate Fluentana in [ D] Rome) built againe of late from the very foundation:* 1.28 and Newgate the fairest of them all, so called of the newnesse thereof, where as before it was termed Chamber∣langate, which also is the publique Goall or Prison. On the North side are foure; Al∣dersgate of the antiquity, or as others would have it, of * 1.29 Aldrich a Saxon: Creple-gate, of a Spitle of lame Creples sometime adjoyning thereunto: More-gate of a moory ground hard by, now turned into a field and pleasant Walkes: which Gate was first built by Falconer Lord Major in the yeare of our Lord 1414. and Bishopsgate of a Bi∣shop, which Gate the Dutch Merchants of the Stilyard were bound by Covenant,* 1.30 both to repaire and also to defend at all times of danger and extremity. On the East side there is Aldgate alone, so named of the oldnesse, or Elbegate, as others terme it, [ E] which at this present is by the Cities charge reedified. It is thought also that there stood by the Tamis beside that on the Bridge two Gates more, namely, Belings-gate, a Wharfe now, or a key for the receit of Ships, and Douregate, that is, The Water-gate, commonly called Dowgate.

Where the Wall endeth also toward the River there were two very strong Forts or Bastilions:* 1.31 of which the one Eastward remaineth yet, usually called, The Towre of London: in the British tongue, Bringwin, or Tourgwin of the whitenesse. A most famous and goodly Citadell, encompassed round with thicke and strong Walles, full of lofty, and stately Turrets, fenced with a broad and deepe ditch, furnished also with an Armory or Magazine of warlike Munition, and other buildings besides: so as it [ F] resembleth a big towne: and a man may truly suppose, that those two Castles which Fitz-Stephen recorded to have beene at the East side of this City went both to the making of this one. The other Fort was on the West side of the City, where Fleete, a little Riveret (whence Fleete-streete tooke name) now of no account, but in times past able to beare Vessels, as I have read in the Parliament Rolls, sheddeth it selfe in∣to

the Tamis. Fitz-Stephen called this the Palatine Towre or Castle: and they write, [ A] that in the Raigne of William the Conquerour it was consumed by fire. Out of the ruines whereof, both a great part of Pauls Church was newly built: and also in the very plot of ground where it stood, Robert Kilwarby Archbishop of Canterbury founded a religious house for Dominican Friers (whereupon we call the place Blacke Friers.) Whereby, a man may easily guesse of what bignesse it was. Howbeit there stood in that place in the dayes of king Henry the second (Gervase of Tilbury in his booke entituled Otia Imperiatia is mine Authour) two Forts or Castles built with Wals and Rampiers: The one whereof belonged to Bainard, the other to the Barons of Mont∣fichet by right of succession. But nothing remaineth of them at this day. Yet some thinke, that Pembroch house was a peece of them, which we terme Bainards Castle, of William [ B] Bainard a Noble man Lord of Dunmow,* 1.32 whose possession sometime it was, whose successours the Fitz-walters were in right of inheritance the Ensigne Bearers of the City of London, and amongst them Robert Fitz-walter had licence of king Edward the First to sell the site of Bainard Castle to the said Archbishop Robert.

Neither was this City at that time walled onely, but also when the Flamin or Pa∣gan Priest was taken away, and Christian Religion established under that good Em∣perour, a Bishop was enstalled in his roome. For, it appeareth, that at the Councell of Arles which in the yeare of grace 314. was held under Constantine the Great, the Bishop of London was present. For, he subscribed, as is to be seene in the first Tome of the Councels in this manner: RESTITUTUS Bishop in the City of London, out of [ C] the Province of Britaine: which Restitutus and his successors had their seat and resi∣ance, as some affirme, at Saint Peters in Cornhill. Heereafter, London flourished in such honour, that it beganne to bee called AUGUSTA, and by that name was fa∣mous under the Emperour Valentinian. For, Amianus Marcellinus in his 27. booke writeth thus:* 1.33 And going forward to London an ancient Towne, which the posterity called Augusta: and in the 28. booke. He went from Augusta, which men of old time called Lundi, whence it came, that when after Constantines time there was a Mint appointed there∣in. (For we reade in his peeces of money,* 1.34 which he stamped in honour of his father Constantius, and in others, this inscription P. LON. S. that is, Pecunia Londini signata, that is, Money stamped at London) he that had the charge and overseeing thereof un∣der [ D] the * 1.35 Comes sacrarum largitionum, is in the booke of Notice termed Praepositus The∣saurorum Augustensiam in Britannia, that is, Provost of the Treasury of Augusta, or London in Britaine. For this name AUGUSTA was a name full of much dignity, full of majesty. And both founders and repairers of Cities when they either hoped or wished that such Cities would become flourishing and powerfull, gave them significative names of good fortune. But among the most auspicious names that be, none is more magnificent, none more auspicate than AUGUSTA. For, this of AUGUSTUS, that most gracious and mighty Emperour Octavianus tooke unto himselfe not without the judgement of the best learned. Sirnamed he was, saith Dio, Augustus, as one of great Majesty above the nature of man. For, what things be most honourable and sacred, are called [ E] AUGUSTA; Neither had London this name for so high an honour without the Li∣cence of the Romane Emperours. For that names could not bee imposed to Cities without licence, Virgil noteth in that Verse of his:

Urbem appellabant, permisso nomine, Acestam. The City, by permission, ACESTA they did name.

But as continuance of time hath out-worne this so honorable a name of Augusta: so it hath confirmed that other more ancient name, Londinum. Whiles it enjoyed the foresaid name Augusta, it scaped faire from destruction by a rebellious rout of Ran∣sackers: but Theodosius the father of Theodosius the Emperour did cut them in peeces whiles they were encombred with their spoiles, and entred, as Marcianus saith, with [ F] exceeding great joy in triumphant manner into the City distressed before and overwhelmed with grievous calamities. And marching with his Army from thence, he by his valiant prowesse so freed Britain from those intolerable miseries and dangers wherewith it was beset, that the Romans, as witnesseth Symmachus, honored him among other ancient

[ A] worthies and men of honourable Renowne, with the Statue of a man of Armes. Not long after, when the Romans Empire in Britaine was come to an end, in that publique destiny and fatall fall of the whole State, it fell into the English-Saxons hands: but in what sort, it is not agreed upon among Writers. For mine owne part, I am of opinion, that Vortigern, to redeeme himselfe being taken Prisoner, de∣livered it for his ransome unto Hengest the Saxon: considering that it belonged to the East-Saxons, whose Country, as Writers doe record, Vortigerne upon that con∣dition made over unto Hengest.

At which time the State of the Church went to wracke and endured sore af∣flictions, the Pastours were either slaine or forced to flye, their flockes driven away, [ B] and after havocke made of all, as well Church goods as others, Theon the last Bi∣shop of London of British bloud, was faine to hide the holy Reliques of Saints, for a memoriall (as mine Authour saith) and not for any Superstition.* 1.36 But although those dayes of the English-Saxons were such as that a man might truely say: Mars then brandished and shooke his weapons, yet was London never the lesse, as Bede testifieth, a Towne of Trade and Traffique, Frequented with many Nations resorting thither by sea and land. But afterwards, when a more gracious gale of peace brea∣thed favourably upon this wearied Island, and the English-Saxons beganne to pro∣fesse Christianity,* 1.37 it also beganne a fresh to flourish againe. For, Aethelbert King of Kent, under whom Sebert reigned in this Tract, as it were, his Vassall and by [ C] courtesie, founded heere a Church and consecrated it to Saint Paul, which being eftsoones reedified and repaired became at length most stately and magnificent, endowed also with faire Livings and Revenewes, wherewith are maintained, a Bishop, a Deane, and Chaunter, a Chancellour, and a Treasurer, five Archdea∣cons, thirty Prebendaries and divers others.

The East part of this Church, which seemeth to bee the newer and curious∣ly wrought, having under it a very faire Arched Vault, which also is Saint Faithes Church, was begunne of the ruines of that Palatine Castle (which I speake of) by Maurice the Bishop; about the yeare of our Lord 1086. when as before time it had beene consumed by a woefull accidentall fire: whereof, [ D] William of Malmesbury writeth thus: The beauty thereof is so magnificent, that it deserveth to bee numbered in the ranke of most excellent Edifices: so large is that Ar∣ched Vault underneath, and the Church above it of such capacity, that it may seeme sufficient to receive any multitude of people whatsoever.* 1.38 Because therefore Maurice carried a minde be∣yond all measure in this project, he betooke the charge and cost of so laborious a peece of worke unto those that came after. In the end when B. Richard his Successour had made over all the Revenewes belonging unto the Bishopricke to the building of this Cathedrall Church, sustai∣ning himselfe and his Family otherwise in the meane while, hee seemed in a manner to have done just nothing: so that hee spent his whole substance profusely heereabout, and yet small effect came thereof.

[ E] The West Part, as also the Crosse-yle are spacious, high built, and good∣ly to bee seene by reason of the huge Pillars and a right beautifull arched Roufe of stone. Where these foure Parts crosse one another and meete in one, there riseth uppe a mighty bigge and lofty Towre, upon which stood a Spire Steeple covered with Leade, mounting uppe to a wonderfull height: for it was no lesse than five hundered and foure and thirty foote high from the Ground; which in the yeare of our Lord 1087. was set on fire with Lightning, and burnt, with a great part of the City: but beeing rebuilt, was of late in mine owne remem∣brance, when I was but a Childe,* 1.39 fired againe with Lightning, and is not as yet re∣edified. The measure also and proportion of this so stately building, I will heere [ F] put downe out of an old Writer, which you may, if it please you, reade: Saint Pauls Church containeth in length sixe hundered ninety foote: the breadth thereof is one hundered and thirty foote: the height of the West Arched Roufe from the Ground car∣rieth an hundered and two foote: and the new Fabrique from the Ground is foure score and eight foote high. The stoneworke of the Steeple from the plaine ground riseth in height

two hundred and threescore foote: and the timber frame upon the same is two hundred sea∣venty [ A] foure foote high, &c.

* 1.40That there stood of old time a Temple of Diana in this place some have conjectu∣red, and arguments there are to make this their conjecture good. Certaine old hou∣ses adjoyning are in the ancient records of the Church called Dianaes Chamber: and in the Church-yard, while Edward the First reigned, an incredible number of Ox-heads were digged up, as wee finde in our Annals, which the common sort at that time made a wondering at, as the Sacrifices of Gentiles: and the learned know, that Taurapolia were celebrated in the honour of Diana.* 1.41 I my selfe also when I was a boy, have seene a stagges head sticking upon a speare-top, (a ceremony suting well with the sacrifices of Diana) carried round about within the very Church in solemne [ B] pompe and procession, and with a great noise of Horne-blowers. And that Stagge or Hart which they of the house de Bawde in Essex did present for certaine lands that there held, as I have heard say, the Priests of this Church arrayed in their sacred ve∣stiments, and wearing Garlands of flowers upon their heads, were wont to receive at the steps of the quire.

Now whether this were in use before those Bawds were bound to exhibite such a Stagge, I wote not: but surely this rite and ceremony may seeme to smell of Dia∣na's worship and the Gentiles errours, more than of Christian Religion. And verily no man neede to doubt, that from them certaine strange, and foraine and hea∣thenish rites crept into Christian religion. Which Ceremonies the first Christians, [ C] (as mankinde is naturally a pliant Sectary to superstition) either admitted, or else at the first tolerated, thereby to traine and allure the Heathen, from Paganisme by little and little to the true Service and Worship of God.

But ever since this Church was built, it hath beene the See of the Bishops of London: and the first Bishop that it had under the English (about fifty yeares after that Theo•• of the British Nation was thrust out) was Melitus a Roman consecra∣ted by Austin Archbishop of Canturbury. In honour of which Austin, flat a∣gainst the Decree of Pope Gregorie the Great, the Ensignes of the Archbishop∣ricke, and the Metropolitane Sec, were translated from London to Canturbury. Within this Cathedrall Church,* 1.42 (to say nothing of Saint Erkenwald, and the Bishops) [ D] there lye buryed Sebba King of the East Saxons, who gave over his kingdome for to serve Christ; Etheldred or Egeldred, who was an Oppressour rather than a Ruler of this Kingdome, cruell in the beginning, wretched in the middle, and shamefull in the end:* 1.43 so outragious hee was in his connivency to a Parricidie committed, so infamous in his flight and effeminacy,* 1.44 and so miserable in his death.

Henry Lacy Earle of Lincolne; Iohn of Gaunt Duke of Lancaster, Sir Simon de Burlie a right noble Knight of the Garter executed by encroched Authority with∣out the kings assent, Sir Iohn de Beauchamp, Lord Warden of the Cinque Ports; Iohn Lord Latimer, Sir Iohn Mason knight; William Herbert Earle of Pembroch, Sir Ni∣cholas Bacon Lord Keeper of the Great Seale of England, a man of a deepe reach [ E] and exquisite judgement; Sir Philip Sidney, and Sir Francis Walsingham, two fa∣mous knights, &c. and Sir Christopher Hatton Lord Chancellour of England, for whose perpetuall memory Sir William Hatton his Nephew by sister, descended from the ancient Family of the Newports, whom hee adopted into the name of Hatton, dutifully erected a sumptuous monument, well beseeming the greatnesse of his adoptive father.

Beside this Church, there is not to my knowledge any other worke of the Eng∣lish Saxons extant in London to bee seene: for why? they continued not long in perfect peace; considering that in short space the West-Saxons subdued the East-Saxons; and London became subject to the Mercians. Scarcely were these ci∣vill [ F] Warres husht, when a new Tempest brake out of the North: I meane the Danes, who piteously tore in peeces all this Country, and shooke this City sore. For the Danes brought it under their Subjection: but Aelfred recovered it out of their hands, and after he had repaired it, gave it unto Aetheldred Earle of the Mercians,

[ A] who had married his daughter. Yet those wastefull depopulators, did what they could afterwards many a time to winne it by Siege; but * 1.45 Canut especially, who by digging a new Chanell attempted to turne away the Tamis from it. Howbeit ever∣more they lost their labour; the Citizens did so manfully repulse the force of the enemy. Yet were they not a little terrified still by them, untill they lovingly re∣ceived and saluted as their King, William Duke of Normandy; whom God desti∣ned to bee borne for the good of England against those Spoilers. Presently then, the windes were laid, the clouds disparcled, and golden dayes in deed shone upon it: Since when it never sustained any great calamity to speake of: but through the speciall favour and indulgence of Princes obtained very large and great Immunities, [ B] beganne to bee called The Kings Chamber, and so flourished a new with fresh trade and traffique of Merchants, that William of Malmesbury who lived well neere a∣bout that time, termed it, A noble and wealthy City, replenished with rich Citizens, and frequented with the commerce of Occupiers and Factours comming out of all lands. And Fitz-Stephen living also in those dayes, hath left in writing, that London at that time counted an hundred and twenty two Parish Churches, and thirteene Covents of religious Orders: also that when a Muster and shew was made of able men to beare Armes, they brought into the Field under their Collours forty thousand footemen, and twenty thousand horsemen.

Then was it enlarged with new buildings, and the spacious Suburbs stretched [ C] forth from the gates a great length on every side: but Westward especially which are the greatest,* 1.46 and best peopled: In which are twelve Innes, ordained for Stu∣dents of our Common law: whereof foure being very faire and large belong to the judiciall Courts, the rest to the Chauncery: besides two Innes moreover for the Serjeants at Law. Herein such a number of young Gentlemen doe so paineful∣ly ply their bookes, and study the Law, that for frequency of Students, it is not inferiour either to Angiers, Cane, or Orleance it selfe, as Sir Iohn Fortescue in his small Treatise of the Lawes of England doth witnesse.* 1.47 The said foure principall houses, are The Inner Temple, the Middle Temple, Graies Inne, and Lincolns Inne. Those two former named,* 1.48 stand in the very place where in times past, during the [ D] Raigne of King Henry the Second, Heraclius Patriarch of Jerusalem consecrated a Church for Knights Templars, which they had newly built according to the forme of the Temple, neere unto the Sepulchre of our Lord at Hierusalem. For, at their first institution about the yeare of our Lord 1113. they dwelt in part of the Temple hard by the Sepulchre, whereof they were so named, and vowed to defend Christian Religion, the Holy Land, and Pilgrimes going to visite the Lords Se∣pulchre, against all Mahometans, and Infidels; professing to live in chastity and obedience; whereupon all men most willingly and with right loving hearts em∣braced them: so that, through the bounteous liberality of Princes and devout people, having gotten in all places very faire Possessions, and exceeding great wealth, [ E] they flourished in high reputation for Piety and Devotion: yea and in the opi∣nion, both of the holinesse of the men, and of the place King Henry the Third, and many Noble men desired much to bee buryed in their Church among them. Some of whose Images are there to bee seene, with their legges acrosse. For, so they were buryed in that Age that had Taken upon them the Crosse (as they then termed it) to serve in the Holy Land, or had vowed the same. Among whom was William Marshall the elder a most powerfull man in his time, William and Gilbert his sonnes Marshalles of England and Earles of Penbroch. Upon William the elder his Tombe I some yeares since read in the upper part Comes Penbrochiae, and upon side this Verse: [ F]

Miles eram Martis, Mars multos vicerat armis.

Of Mars I was a doughty Knight, Mars vanquished many a man in fight.

* 1.49But in processe of time, when with insatiable greedinesse they had hoorded great [ A] wealth by withdrawing tith's from churches,* 1.50 appropriating spiritual livings to them∣selves, and other hard meanes; their riches turned to their ruine. For thereby their former piety was after a manner stifled, they fell at jarre with other religious orders, their professed obedience to the Patriarch of Ierusalem was rejected, envy among the common sort was procured, which hope of gain among the better sort so enkindled, that in the yeere of our salvation 1312. this order was condemned of impiety, and by the Popes authority utterly abolished.* 1.51 Howbeit their possessions were by autho∣rity of the Parliament assigned to the Hospitalier Knights of S. Iohn of Ierusalem, least that such Lands given to pious and good uses, against the Donours will should bee alienated to other uses. And yet it is apparent out of ancient writings, that this place, [ B] after the expulsion of the Templers,* 1.52 was the seat and habitation of Thomas Earle of Lancaster, and of Sir Hugh Spenser King Edward the Second his minion: afterwards of Sir Aimer de Valence Earle of Pembroch, and in the end turned into two Colledges or Innes of Lawyers. Of the rest of these Innes, I have found nothing at all by rea∣ding: But the generall voyce goeth, that the one was the dwelling house of the Lord Greies of Wilton, and the other of the Earles of Lincolne.

Nere unto this K. Henry the third erected betweene the New and the Old Temple an house of Converts, for the maintenance of those that were converted from Iudaisme to the Christian Truth: which King Edward the Third appointed afterwards for [ C] rolls and records to be kept therein,* 1.53 and thereof at this day it is called The Rowls.

These Suburbs with houses standing close together, and stately habitations of the Nobles and great Men of the Land along the Tamis side, reach out as farre as to Westminster. Among which these are the most memorable here: Bride-well, where King Henry the Eighth built a royall house for the entertainment of Charles the Fifth Emperour: but now it is an House of Correction: Buckhurst house, or Salisbu∣ry Court, belonging sometimes to the Bishops of Salisbury: the White Freers, or Car∣melite Freers: The Temples whereof I speake: Then without the Bars Essex house, built by the Lord Paget: Arondel house before called Hampton place, and Somerset house built by Edward Semer Duke of Somerset: The Savoy, so named of Peter Earle of Savoy, who there dwelt, which Queene Aeleonor wife to King Henry the Third purchased [ D] of the fraternity of Mont-joy, and gave it to her Sonne Edmund Earle of Lanca∣ster. Whose Posterity dwelt in it a long time untill that King Henry the Seaventh dedicated it as an Hospitall for the Poore:* 1.54 Worcester-house, late Bedford-house, Salis∣bury-house, Durham-house, built by Antony Becke Bishop of Durham, and Patriarch of Jerusalem, and thereby the onely ornament of this part the Britain-Burse, built by the Earle of Salisbury, and so named by King Iames: Yorke-house in times past, Bath-house, and Northampton-house now begunne by Henry Earle of Northampton. But what meane I to name these places?

〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉 [ E] None claime them wholy for their owne: Fortune disposeth them every one.

* 1.55By this Suburbs Westminster, which sometime was more than a mile distant, is conjoyned so close unto the Citty of London, that it seemeth a member thereof: whereas it is a Citty of it selfe, having their peculiar Magistrates and Priviledges. It was called in times past Thorney, of Thornes: but now Westminster, of the West situati∣on, and the Monastery. Most renowned it is for that Church, the Hall of Iustice, and the Kings Palace.

This Church is famous especially by reason of the Inauguration and Sepulture of the Kings of England. Sulcard writeth, that there stood sometimes a Temple of Apollo [ F] in that place, and that in the dayes of Antoninus Pius Emperor of Rome it fell downe with an Earth-quake. Out of the remaines whereof, Sebert King of the East-Sa∣xons erected another to Saint Peter, which beeing by the Danes overthrowne, Bi∣shoppe Dunstane reedified, and granted it to some few Monkes. But afterwards,

[ A] King Edward surnamed the Confessour with the tenth penny of all his revenewes built it new for to be his owne sepulture, and a Monastery for Benedictine Monkes, endowing it with Livings and Lands lying dispersed in diverse parts of England. But listen what an Historian faith who then lived: The devout King destined unto God that place, both for that it was nere unto the famous and wealthy Citty of London, and also had a pleasant situation amongst fruitfull fields, and greene grounds lying round about it: and withall the principall River running hard by, bringing in from all parts of the world great va∣riety of Wares and Merchandize of all sorts to the Citty adjoyning. But chiefly for the love of the chiefe Apostle, whom he reverenced with a speciall and singular affection: He made choise to have a place there for his owne Sepulchre: and thereupon commanded, that of the tenths of [ B] all his Rents, the worke of a noble edifice should bee gone in hand with, such as might beseeme the Prince of the Apostles: To the end, that he might procure the propitious favour of the Lord after he should finish the course of this transitory Life, both in regard of his devout Pi∣ety, and also of his free oblation of Lands and Ornaments, wherewith hee purposed to endow and enrich the same. According therefore to the Kings commandement, the worke nobly beganne and happily proceeded forward: neither the charges already disbursed or to bee dis∣bursed are weighed and regarded, so that it may bee presented in the end unto God and Saint Peter worth their acceptation. The forme of that ancient building read if you please out of an old Manuscript booke: The principall plot or ground-worke of the building suppor∣ted with most lofty Arches is cast round with a foure square worke and semblable joynts. But [ C] the compasse of the whole, with a double Arch of stone on both sides is enclosed with joynd-worke firmely knit and united together every way. Moreover the Crosse of the Church which was to compasse the midde Quire of those that chaunted unto the Lord, and with a two-fold sup∣portance that it had on either side to uphold and beare the lofty toppe of the Tower in the midst, simply riseth at first with a low and strong Arch: then mounteth it higher with many win∣ding Staires artificially ascending with a number of steps: But afterward with a single wall it reacheth up to the roofe of Timber well and surely covered with Lead. But after an hun∣dred and threescore yeeres King Henry the Third subverted this fabricke of King Edwards, and built from the very foundation a new Church of very faire worke∣manship, supported with sundry rowes of Marble pillars, and the Rowfe covered [ D] over with sheets of Lead: a peece of worke that cost fifty yeeres labour in building, which Church the Abbots enlarged very much toward the West end: and King Henry the Seventh for the buriall of himselfe, and his children adjoyned thereto in the East end a Chappell of admirable artificiall elegancy (The wonder of the World) Leland calleth it: for a man would say that all the curious and exquisite worke that can bee devised, is there compacted: wherein is to bee seene his owne most stately magnificall Monument all of solide and massie Copper. This Church when the Monkes were driven thence from time to time was altered to and fro with sundry changes. First of all it had a Deane and Prebendaries: soone after one Bishop and no more, namely T. Thurlebey, who having wasted the Church Patrimony surrendred it [ E] to the spoile of Courtiers, and shortly after were the Monks with their Abbot set in possession againe by Queene Mary: and when they also within a while after were by authority of Parliament cast out, the most gracious Prince Queene Elizabeth con∣verted it into a Collegiat Church, or rather into a Seminary and nurse-garden of the Church, appointed twelve Prebendaries there, and as many old Soldiers past ser∣vice for Almes-men, fourty Scholers, who in their due time are preferred to the Uni∣versities, and from thence sent foorth into the Church, and Common-weale, &c. Over these she placed D. Bill Deane, whose successour was D. Gabriel Goodman, a right good man indeede and of singular integrity, an especiall Patron of my studies.

Within this Church are entombed (that I may note them also according to their [ F] dignity and time wherein they died) Sebert the first of that name,* 1.56 and first Christian King of the East-Saxons: Harold the bastard son of Canutus the Dane, King of Eng∣land, S. Edward King and Confessour, with his wife Edith: Maud, wife to King Henry the First, the daughter of Malcolme King of Scots: King Henry the Third, and his son, King Edward the First with Aeleonor his wife, daughter to Ferdinand•• the first King

of Castile and of Leon. King Edward the Third, and Philippa of Henault his wife: [ A] King Richard the Second and his wife Anne, sister to Wenzelaus the Emperor: King Henry the Fifth with Catharine his wife, daughter to Charles the Sixt king of France: Anne, wife to king Richard the Third, daughter to Richard Nevill Earle of War∣wicke: king Henry the Seventh with his wife Elizabeth: daughter to king Edward the Fourth, and his mother Margaret Countesse of Richmond: king Edward the Sixth: Anne of Cleve the fourth wife of king Henry the Eighth: Queene Mary: And whom we are not to speake of without praise, The Love and Joy of England Queene ELIZABETH of Sacred memory,* 1.57 our late Soveraigne and most gratious Lady, a Prince matchlesse for her heroicke Vertues, Wi••edome and Magnanimity above that Sexe, rare knowledge and skill in the Tongues, is here intombed in a [ B] sumptuous and stately Monument, which king Iames of a pious minde erected to her memory. But alas, how litle is that Monument in regard of so Noble and worthy a Lady? Who of her selfe is her owne Monument and that right magnificent.

For, how great SHE was] RELIGION REFORMED, PEACE WELL GROUNDED, MONEY REDUCED TO THE TRUE VALUE, A NAVY PASSING WELL FURNISHED IN READINES, HONOUR AT SEA RE∣STORED, REBELLION EXTINGVISHED, ENGLAND FOR THE SPACE OF XLIIII. YEERS MOST WISELY GOVERNED, ENRICHED AND FORTIFIED; SCOTLAND FREED FROM THE FRENCH, FRANCE RELIEVED, NETHERLANDS SUPPORTED, SPAINE AWED, IRELAND QUIETED, AND THE WHOLE GLOBE OF THE [ C] EARTH TWICE SAYLED ROUND ABOUT, may with praise and admira∣ration testifie one day unto all Posterity and succeeding ages.

* 1.58Of Dukes and Earles degree, there ly here buried: Edmund Earle of Lancaster se∣cond son of K. Henry the third, and his wife Aveline de fortibus Countesse of Albemarle. William and Audomar of Valence of the family of Lusignian, Earles of Pembroch, Alphonsus Iohn, and other children of King Edward the First, Iohn of Eltham Earle of Cornwall, son to K. Edward the second, Thomas of Woodstocke Duke of Glocester the yongest son of K. Edward the third, with other of his children, Aeleanor daughter and heire of Humfrey Bohun Earle of Hereford and of Essex wife to Thomas of Woodstocke, [ D] the yong daughter of Edward the fourth, and K. Henry the seventh, Henry a childe two months old son of K. Henry the eight, Sophia the daughter of K. Iames, who, died, as it were, in the very first day-dawning of her age, Phillippa Mohun Dutches of Yorke, Lewis Vicount Robsert of Henault in right of his wife, Lord Bourchier, Anne the yong daughter and heire of Iohn Mowbray Duke of Norfolke promised in marriage unto Richard Duke of Yorke yonger son to K. Edward the fourth, Sir Giles Daubency Lord Chamberlaine to king Henry the Seventh, and his wife of the house of the A∣rundels in Cornwall, I. Vicount Wells, Francis Brandon Dutches of Suffolke, Mary her daughter, Margaret Douglasse Countesse of Lennox, grandmother to Iames King of Britaine, with Charles her son, Winifrid Bruges Marchionesse of Winchester, Anne [ E] Stanhop Dutches of Somerset and Iane her daughter, Anne Cecill Countesse of Oxford daughter to the L. Burghley Lord high Treasurer of England, with Mildred Burghley her mother, Elizabeth Berkeley Countesse of Ormund, Francis Sidney Countesse of Sussex, Iames Butler, Vicount Thurles son and heire to the Earle of Ormond.

Besides these, Humfrey Lord Bourchier of Cromwall, Sir Humfrey Bourchier son and heire to the Lord Bourchier of Berners both slaine at Bernet field, Sir Nicholas Ca∣rew, Baron Carew Baronesse Powisse, T. Lord Wentworth, Thomas Lord Wharton, Iohn Lord Russell, Sir T. Bromley Lord Chancellour of England, Douglas Howard daughter and heire generall of H. Vicount Howard of Bindon wife to Sir Arthur Gorges, Eliza∣beth daughter and heire of Edward Earle of Rutland wife to William Cecill. Sir Iohn [ F] Puckering Lord Keeper of the great Seale of England, Francis Howard Countesse of Hertford, Henrie and George Cary, the father and sonne Barons of Hunsdon both Lords Chamberlaines to Queene Elizabeth the heart of Anne Sophia the tender daughter of Christopher Harley, Count Beaumont Embassadour from the king of

[ A] France in England, bestowed within a small guilt Urne over a Pyramid. Sir Charles Blunt Earle of Devonshire, Lord Lieutenant Generall of Ireland. And (whom in no wise wee must forget) the Prince of English Poets Geoffry Chauer: as also he that for pregnant wit and an excellent gift in Poetry of all English Poets came neerest unto him, Edmund Spencer. Beside many others of the Clergy, and Gentlemen of quality.

There was also another College or Free-chapell hard by consisting of a Deane, and twelve Chanons, dedicated to Saint Stephen: which King Edward the Third in his princely Magnificence repaired with curious workmanship and endowed with faire possessions, so as he may seeme to have built it new what time as he had with his vi∣ctories overrun and subdued al France, recalling to minde (as we read the Charter of [ B] the foundation) and pondering in a due weight of devout consideration the exceeding benefits of Christ, whereby of his owne sweet mercy and pity he preventeth us in all occasions, delive∣ring us, although without all desert, from sundry perils, and defending us gloriously with his powerfull right hand against the violent assaults of our adversaries with victorious successes: and in other tribulations and perplexities wherein wee have exceeding much beene encombred, by comforting us and by applying, and in-powering remedies upon us beyond all hope and expe∣ctation. There was adjoyning hereto a Palace, the ancient habitation of the Kings of England from the time of King Edward the Confessor: which in the Raigne of king Henry the Eighth, was burnt by casuall fire to the ground. A very large, stately, and sumptuous Palace this was, and in that age for building incomparable, with a vawmur••, [ C] and bulwarks for defence:* 1.59 The remaines whereof, are the Chamber, wherein the King, the Nobles,* 1.60 with the Counsellers and Officers of State, doe assemble at the high Court of Parliament, and the next unto it, wherein anciently they were wont to be∣ginne the Parliaments, knowne by the name of Saint Edwards painted chamber, because the tradition holdeth that the said king Edward therein dyed.

But how sinfull an Act, how bloudy, how foule, how hainous, horrible, hide∣ous, and odious both to God and man, certaine brute and savage beasts in mens shape enterprised of late,* 1.61 by the device of that Arch Traitour Robert Catesby, with undermining, and placing a mighty deale of gunpowder under these Edifices against their Prince, their Country and all the States of the Kingdome, and that under an a∣bominable [ D] pretence of Religion, my very heart quaketh to remember and mention: nay, amazed it is and astonied but to thinke onely into what inevitable darknesse, confusion and wofull miseries, they had suddenly in the twinckling of an eye plun∣ged this most flourishing Realme and Common wealth: But that which an ancient Poet in a smaller matter wrote, we may in this with griefe of minde utter:

Excidat illa dies aevo, nè postera credant Secula, nos certè taceamus, & obruta multa Nocte tegi propriae patiamur crimina gentis. That cursed day forgotten be: no future age beleeve [ E] That this was true: let us also at least wise now that live Conceale the same, and suffer such Designes of our owne Nation Hidden to be and buried quite in darknesse of oblivion.

Adjoyning unto this is the Whitehall, wherein at this day the Court of Requests is kept.* 1.62 Beneath this is that Hall, which of all other is the greatest, and the very Praeto∣rium or Hall of Justice for all England. In this are the Judiciall Courts, namely: The Kings Bench, the Common Pleas, and The Chancery: And in places neere thereabout, The Star-Chamber, the Exchequer, Court of Ward, and Court of the D••teby of Lancaster, &c. In which at certaine set times (wee call them Tearmes) yearely causes are heard [ F] and tryed: whereas before king Henry the Third his dayes, the Court of common Law and principall Justice was unsetled and alwaies followed the kings Court. But he in the Magna Charta made a law in these words: Let not the Common Pleas fol••ow our Court, but bee holden in some certaine place.* 1.63 Which notwithstanding some expound thus: That the Common Pleas from thenceforth bee handled in a Court of the owne by it

selfe a part, and not in the Kings Bench, as before. This Judgement Hall which we [ A] now have, king Richard the Second built out of the ground, as appeareth by his Armes engraven in the stone-worke, and many arched beames (when he had plucked downe the former old Hall that king William Rufus in the same place had built be∣fore) and made it his owne habitation. For kings in those daies sat in Judgement place in their owne persons: And they are indeed the 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, that is, Judges, Whose mouth (as that Royall Writer saith) shall not erre in Judgement.* 1.64 But the foresaid Palace, after it was burnt downe in the yeare of our Lord 1512. lay desolate, and king Henry the Eighth translated shortly after the kings Seat from thence to an house not farre off, which belonged but a while before to Cardinall Wolsey, and is called White Hall. This house is a Princely thing: enclosed of the one side with a Parke [ B] that reacheth also to another house of the kings named S. James (where anciently was a Spittle for Maiden Lepres) built by king Henry the Eighth, on the other side with the Tamis. A certaine Poet termed the foresaid House according to the English name thereof Leucaeum in Latine, as appeareth in these Verses:

—Regale subintrant Leucaeum Reges (dederant memorabile quondam Atria, quae niveo candebant marmore, nomen) Quod Tamisis prima est cui gloria pascere cygnos Ledaeos, ranco pronus subterluit aestu. To Royall Palace Kings enter in, sometime LEUCEUM hight. [ C] (This famous name those Courts it gave that shone with marble white.) Hard under it with low-sound streame Tamis downe apace doth glide, A River feeding Swannes, wherein he takes especiall pride.

* 1.65Hard by, neere unto the Mues so called, for that it served to keepe Hawkes, and now is become a most faire Stable for the kings horses, there remaineth a monument in memoriall of that most pious and kinde Queene Aeleonor, erected by the king Edward the First her most dearely beloved husband: and certes the memory of her loving kindnesse shall remaine worthy to be consecrated to aeternity. For shee, the daughter of Ferdinand the Third, king of Castile, being given in marriage to Edward the first king of England,* 1.66 accompanied him into the Holy Land: where, when as he [ D] was secretly forelaid, and by a certaine Moore wounded with an envenomed sword, and by all the remedies that Physitians could devise was not so much eased as afflicted: shee tooke her to a cure strange I must needs say and never heard of before,* 1.67 howbeit full of love and kinde affection. For, her Husbands wounds infected with the poison, and which by reason of the malignity thereof could not bee closed and healed, shee day by day licked with her tongue, and sucked out the venemous humour which to her was a most sweet liquour. By the vigour and strength whereof, or to say more truely, by vertue of a wives lovely fidelity she so drew unto her all the substance of the poison, that the wounds being closed, and cicatrized, hee became per∣fectly healed, and shee caught no harme at all. What then can bee heard more rare, what more admirable than this womans faithfull love? That a wives tongue thus annointed, as I may so [ E] say, with faith and love to her Husband, should from her well beloved draw those poisons, which by an approved Physitian could not bee drawne: and that which many and those right exquisite medicines effected not, the love onely and piety of a Wife performed. Thus much of Westminster joyntly with London (although as I have said, it is a City by it selfe, and hath a severall jurisdiction from it) because with continued buildings it so joy∣neth thereto, that it may seeme to be one and the same City.

Moreover, at the West end of the City, other Suburbs runne a great way in length,* 1.68 with goodly rowes of houses orderly ranged, as namely Holborne or rather more truely Oldborne: wherein stood anciently the first house of the Templers one∣ly in the place now called Southampton house. But now there stand certaine Innes, [ F] or Colleges of Students in the Common Law: and a City-habitation of the Bi∣shops of Ely, well beseeming Bishops to dwell in: for which they are beholden to John de Hotham Bishop of Ely under king Edward the Third.

At the North side likewise there be Suburbs annexed to the City, wherein Iordan

[ A] Briset a man very wealthy and devout built an house for the Knights Hospitalers of Saint Iohn of Ierusalem,* 1.69 which grew in time so great, that it resembled a Palace: and had in it a very faire Church and a Towre-steeple raised to a great height with so fine workemanship, that while it stood, it was a singular beauty and ornament to the City. These Knights Hospitalers at their first institution, about the yeare 1124. and long after, were so lowly all the while they continued poore, that their Governour was stiled Servant to the poore Servitours of the hospitall of Ierusalem, like as the Master of the Templars,* 1.70 who shortly after arose, was termed The humble Minister of the poore Knights of the Temple. This religious Order was instituted shortly after Geffery of Bollen had recovered Hierusalem. The Brethren whereof ware a white Crosse upon their up∣per [ B] blacke Garment, and by solemne Profession were bound to serve Pilgrimes, and poore people in the Hospitall of Saint Iohn at Hierusalem, and to secure the passages thither, they charitably buried the dead, they were continuall in prayer, mortified themselves with watchings and fastings, they were courteous and kinde to the poore whom they called their Masters, and fed with white bread, while themselves lived with browne; and carried themselves with great austerity. Whereby they purcha∣sed to themselves the love and liking of all sorts, and through the bounty of good Princes and private persons admiring their piety, and prowesse, they rose from this low degree to so high an estate, and great riches, that after a sort they wallowed in wealth. For they had about the yeare of our Lord 1240. within Christendome nine∣teene [ C] thousand Lordships or Manours: like as the Templars nine thousand (the Reve∣newes and rents whereof in England fell afterwards also to these Hospitalers.) And this Estate of theirs growne to so great an height made way for them to as great ho∣nours, so as their Prior in England was reputed the * 1.71 Prime Baron of the Land and able with fulnesse and aboundance of all things to maintaine an honourable Port, untill that King Henry the Eighth advised by them, which respected their private profit, gat their lands and livings into his owne hands, like as hee did of the Mo∣nasteries also. Albeit it was then declared that such religious places being of most pious intent consecrated to the Glory of God, might have beene according to the Canons of the Church, bestowed in exhibition and Almes for Gods Ministers, re∣leefe [ D] of the poore, redemption of Captives, and repairing of Churches. Neere un∣to it,* 1.72 where now is to be seene a sightly circuit of faire houses, was the Charter-house, founded by Sir Walter Many of Henault, who with singular commendation served under King Edward the Third in the French warres: and in that place heretofore was a most famous Cemitery, or buriall place in which in a plague time at London, were buried in the yeare 1349. more than 50000. persons: a thing recorded to po∣sterity by an inscription which continued there a long time engraven in Brasse.

On this North-West side likewise London hath other great Suburbs, and there stood in old time a * 1.73 Watchtowre or military Forefense, whence the place was of an Arabicke word called Barbacan, and by the gift of King Edward the Third became [ E] the dwelling house of the Vffords; from whom by the Willoughbies it came to Sir Pengrine Bertey, Lord Willoughbey of Eresby, a man noble and generous, and one of Mars his broode.

Neither lesse Suburbs runne out on the North-East and East. In the fields of which Suburbs, whiles I was first writing these matters, there were gotten out of the ground many urnes, funerall vessels, little Images, and earthen pots, wherein were small peeces of money coined by Claudius, Nero, Vespasian, &c. Glasse vials also and sun∣dry small earthen vessels, wherein some liquid substance remained which I would thinke to bee either of that sacred oblation of Wine and Milke, which the ancient Romanes used when they burnt the dead, or else those odoriferous liquours that Sta∣tius [ F] mentioneth.

—Pharijque liquores Arsuram lavere comam. And liquid baulmes from Aegypt-land that came, Did wash his haire that ready was for flame.

This place the Romanes appointed to burne and bury dead bodies, who accor∣ding [ A] to the law of the xij. Tables carried Coarses out of their Cities, and enterred them by the high waies sides, to put Passengers in minde that they are, as those were, subject to mortality: Thus much of that part of the City which lieth to the Land.

* 1.74Now for that side where the River runneth, toward the South banke thereof, the Citizens made a Bridge also over the Water reaching to that large Burrough of Southwarke, whereof I have already spoken; First, of wood in that place where be∣fore time they used for passage a ferry boat in stead of a Bridge. Afterwards, under the Raigne of King John they built a new Bridge with admirable workmanship of stone hewen out of the Quarry,* 1.75 upon 19. Arches, beside the draw-bridge, and so furnished it on both sides with passing faire houses joyning one to another in man∣ner [ B] of a Street, that for bignesse and beauty, it may worthily carry away the prise from all the Bridges in Europe.

* 1.76In this Burgh of Southwarke, to speake onely of things memorable, there stood sometime a famous Abbay of Monkes, of Saint Benets Order, called Bermondsey, consecrated in times past unto our Saviour, by Aldwin Childe Citizen of London: also a stately house built by Charles Brandon Duke of Suffolke,* 1.77 which having served his turne but a small time, was shortly after pulled downe.

* 1.78These are extant, Saint Thomas Hospitall, reedified or founded rather by the City of London, for the sustenance of feeble and impotent persons: The Priory of the blessed Virgin Mary, called Saint Mary Over Rhe because it standeth beyond the [ C] River of Tamis in regard of London, erected by William Pont del Arche a Norman for blacke Chanons. The Bishops house of Winchester built by William Giffard Bi∣shop, for his Successours, about the yeare of our Lord 1107. From which along the Tamis banke there runneth Westward a continued raunge of dwelling houses: where within our fathers remembrance was the Bordello or Lupanarie, for so the Latines terme those little roomes or secret chambers of harlots wherein they filthily prosti∣tuted their bodies to sale, because they after the manner of ravening she-wolves catch hold of silly wretched men and plucke them into their holes. But these were prohi∣bited by King Henry the Eighth, at which time England was growne to excessive lasciviousnesse and riot; which in other Nations are continued for gaine, under a [ D] specious shew of helping mans infirmity: Neither, of these Strumpets and brothel∣houses, doe I thinke that this place in our tongue tooke the name Stewes, but of those Ponds or Stewes,* 1.79 which are heere to feed Pikes and Tenches fat, and to scowre them from the strong and muddy fennish taste. Heere have I seene Pikes panches ope∣ned with a knife to shew their fatnesse: and presently the wide gashes and wounds come together againe by the touch of Tenches, and with their glutinous slime per∣fectly healed up. Among these buildings there is a place in manner of a Theater for baiting of Beares and Buls with Dogges: and certaine kenels appointed severally for Band-Dogges or Mastives,* 1.80 which are of that strength, and so sure of bit, that three of them are able to take and hold downe a Beare, and foure a Lion: so that the Poet [ E] in old time reported truely of our Dogges, in these words:

Taurorum fracturi colla Britanni. The British Dogges are able well, To breake the neckes of Buls so fell.

Like as he that said, they were more fierce than the Dogges of Arcadian kinde, which are thought to be engendred of Lions.

What time as the Bridge was thus made betweene London and this Burrough, the City was not onely enlarged; but also an excellent forme of Common wealth was therein ordained, and the Citizens reduced into certaine distinct Corporations and Companies. The whole City divided into six and twenty Wards: and the Coun∣sell [ F] of the City consisted of as many ancient men,* 1.81 named of their age in our tongue Aldermen, as one would say, Senatours, who each one have the overseeing and rule of his severall Ward: and whereas in ancient time they had for their Head-Magistrate, a * 1.82 Portreve, that is, a Governour of the City, King Richard the First ordained two Bal∣lives:

[ A] in stead of whom soone after King John granted them liberty, to chuse by their voices yearely out of the twelve principall Companies a Major for their chiefe Ma∣gistrate:* 1.83 also two Sheriffes, whereof the one is called the Kings, the other the Cities Sheriffe.* 1.84 This forme of Common wealth being thus established it is incredible to tell how much London grew,* 1.85 and groweth still in publike and also private buildings, whiles all the Cities of England besides decrease. For, to say nothing of that beau∣tifull peece of worke, the Senat•• house named Guild Hall, built by Sir Thomas Knowles Major: Leaden Hall, a large and goodly building, erected by Simon Eire, to bee a common Garner in time of dearth to pull downe the price of Corne;* 1.86 the Merchants meeting place standing upon Pillars,* 1.87 which the common people call the Burse, and [ B] Queene Elizabeth with a solemne ceremony named The Royall Exchange,* 1.88 for the use of Merchants, and an ornament to the City, set up by Sir Thomas Gresham Citizen and knight; a magnificent worke verily, whether you respect the modull of the building, the resort of Merchants from all Nations th••ther, or the store of wares there. Which Sir Thomas Gresham, being withall an exceeding great lover of lear∣ning, consecrated a most spacious house his owne habitation to the furtherance of learning,* 1.89 and instituted there Professours of Divinity, Law, Physicke, Astronomy, Geometry, and Musicke, with liberall salaries and stipends: to the end that London might be a place not onely furnished with all sorts of Traffique, but also with the li∣berall Arts and Sciences. To passe over the House of the Society of the House, com∣monly [ C] called the Stilyard, as the Easterlings yard, and the waters conveighed by pipes under the ground, into all parts of the City, and very goodly conducts or cisternes ca∣stellated to receive the same: also the new conveyance of water devised by the skil∣full travell of Peer Maurice a German; who by meanes of a forcer or wheele, with pipes placed at a certaine levell, brought water of late out of the Tamis into a great part of the City; To omit all these, I say, it is so adorned every where with Chur∣ches, that RELIGION and GODLINESSE seem to have made choise of their residence herein. For the Churches therein amount to the number of one hundred twenty and one, more verily than Rom•• it selfe (as great and holy as it is) can shew. Besides Hospitals for diseased persons, it maintaineth also sixe hundred Orphane children or [ D] thereabout, in Christs Church Hospitall, and poore people upon contribution of Almes about 1240. &c. A long time it would aske to discourse particularly of the good lawes and orders, of the laudable government, of the port and dignity of the Major and Aldermen, of their forward service and loyalty to their Prince, of the Citizens courtesie, the faire building and costly furniture, the breed of excellent and choise wits, their gardens in the Suburbs full of dainty arbours, and banqueting roomes, stored also with strange herbes from forraigne countries, of the multitude, strength and furni∣ture of their ships, the incredible store of all sorts of Merchandise (two hundred thou∣sand broad-clothes,* 1.90 beside other An••werp alone hath received from hence every yeare) and of the superabundance of all things which belong to the furniture or neces∣sity [ E] of mans life. For, right truly wrote that Hadrianus Iunius in his Philippeis:

—Tecti•• opibúsque refertum Londinum, & si fas, numeroso cive superbum, Larga ubi foecundo rerum undat copia cornu.

Thicke built with houses London is, with riches stuffed full, Proud, (if we may so say) of men that therein live and dwell, Wherein most plenteous wise abound all things that tongue can tell.

[ F] And Iul. Scaliger in his Poem of Cities.

Vrbs animis, numeróque potens, & r••bore genti••. For peoples, courage, numbers, power, it is a City strong.

And another Poet hath powred out these Verses also, concerning London, if you deigne to reade them,

LONDINUM gemino procurrit littore longè [ A] Aemula materna tollens sua lumina Troia Clementer surgente jugo dum te••dit in ortum: Urbs peramaena situ, coelóque solóque beata. Urbs pietate potens, numeroso cive superba, Urbsque Britannorum quae digna BRITANNIA dici. Haec nova doctrinis Lutetia, mercibus Ormus, Altera Roma viris, Chrysaea secunda metallis.

Along both bankes out stretched farre the Citie LONDON lies Resembling much her mother Troie, aloft she lifts her eies, Whiles on a gentle rising hill she beareth toward East: [ B] A City pleasant for her site, in aire, and soile much blest. Religious, and populous: and hence she lookes on hie, And well deserves for to be cal'd the Britans Britanie. For learning new Lutetia, Ormus for Traffique mich, A second Rome for valiant men, Chrysae for metals rich.

In this manner likewise versified Henry of Huntingdon in praise of London, while King Stephen raigned, about foure hundered yeares since:

[ C] Ibis & in nostros dives Londonia versus, Quae nos immemores non sinis esse tui. Quando tuas arces, tua moenia mente retracto, Quae vidi, videor cuncta videre mihi. Fama•• loquax & nat a loqui, moritura silendo, Laudibus crubait fingere falsa tuis.

Thou also shalt of Verses ours Rich London have thy part, For why? we cannot thee forget, so great is thy desart. When I thinke of thy stately Towres, thy faire and spacious Wall Which I have seene, me thinkes therewith I see no * lesse then all. [ D] This pratling fame, that's borne to prate, and talk'd she not would dye, In all the praise that goes of thee hath bash'd to tell one lye.

Another Poet in like manner pleasantly played upon London in this sort:

Hac Urbs illa potens, cui tres tria dona ministrant Bacchus, Apollo, Ceres, pocula, carmen, ador. Hac Urbs illa potens, quam Iuno, Minerva, Diana Mercibus, arce, feris, ditat, adornat, alit.

[ E] This is that City strong to which three gifts are given by three, By Bacchus, Ceres, and Phoebus, Wine, Wheat, and Poetree. This place sterne Pallas, Iuno Queene, Diana Hunters-feer Adorn's, enricheth, and doth feed, with towres, with wares, with deer.

But in a more grave note and serious stile, a friend of mine and a praise worthy per∣son, Master Iohn Ionston, Professor of Divinity in the Kings University of S. Andrewes.

URBS AUGUSTA, cui coelúmque, solúmque, salúmque Cuíque favent cunctis cuncta elementa bonis. [ F] Mitius haud usquàm coelum est, uberrima Tellus Fundit inexhausti germina laeta soli. Et pater Oceanus Tamisino gurgite mistus, Convehit immensas totius orbis opes.

[ A] Regali cultu; sedes clarissima Regum Gentis praesidium, cor, anima, atque oculus. Gens antiqua, potens virtute & robore belli, Artium & omnigenûm nobilitata opibus. Singula contemplare animo, attentúsque tuere, Aut Orbem aut Orbis dixeris esse caput.

This City well AUGUSTA call'd, to which (a truth to say) Aire, Land, Sea, and all Elements, shew favour every way. The weather no where milder is, the ground most rich to see, [ B] Doth yeeld all fruits of fertile soile, that never spent will bee. And Ocean, that with Tams streame his flowing tyde doth blend Conveis to it commodities, all that the world can send. The noble seat of Kings it is for port and roialty, Of all the Realme the fence, the heart, the life, and lightsome ey. The people ancient, valorous, expert in chivalry, Enriched with all sorts and meanes of Art and mysterie. Take heedfull view of every thing, and then say thus in briefe, This either is a world it selfe, or of the world the chiefe.

[ C] But of these and such like particulars Iohn Stowe Citizen of London, and a famous Chronicler hath discoursed more at large, and more exactly in that his Survey of London, which he lately published.

Now will I take my leave of my deere native Country, and bid London a diew, af∣ter I have given this onely note, that the Pole is here elevated fiftie one degrees, and foure and thirty scruples, and the Meridian distant from the farthest West-poynt three and twenty degrees and five and twenty scruples. That the * 1.91 Fidicula symboli∣zing in nature with Venus and Mercurie, is the Tropick starre which glanceth upon the Horizon, but never setteth; and the Dragons head is reputed by Astronomers to be the Verticall starre over head.

[ D] * 1.92 From London, the Tamis watering Redcliff, so called of the Red-cliffe, a prety fine Towne and dwelling place of Sailers, as he fetcheth almost a round compasse with a great winding reach, taketh into him the River Lea at the east bound of this Coun∣tie, when it hath collected his divided streame and cherished fruitfull Marish-me∣dowes. Upon which there standeth nothing in this side worth the speaking of. For, neither Aedelmton hath ought to shew,* 1.93 but the name derived of Nobility; nor Wal∣tham, unlesse it be the Crosse erected there for the funerall pompe of Queene Aeleo∣nor Wife to King Edward the First, whereof also it tooke name. Onely Enfeld a house of the Kings is here to be seene, built by Sir Thomas Lovel knight (of the or∣der of the Garter and one of King Henry the Seventh his Privy Counsell) and Du∣rance [ E] neighbour thereunto a house of the Wrothes of ancient name in this Countie. To Enfeld-house,* 1.94 Enfeld-chace is hard adjoyning, a place much renowned for hunting: the possession in times past of the Magnavils Earles of Essex, afterwards of the Bohuns who succeeded them: and now it belongeth to the Duchie of Lancaster, since the time that Henry the Fourth King of England espoused one of the daughters and coheires of Humfrey Bohun Earle of Hereford and Essex of that surname. And there are yet to be seene, in the middest well nere of this Chase, the rubbish and ruines of an old house, which the vulgar sort saith was the dwelling place of the Magnavils Earles of Essex. As for the title of Midlesex, the Kings of England have vouchsafed it to none, neither Duke, Marquis, Earle, or Baron.

[ F]

In this County, without the City of London, are reckoned Parishes much about 73. Within the City, Liberties, and Suburbes. 121.

[illustration]

[illustration]

ESSEXIA COMITATVS. QVEM olim TRINOBANTES tenuerunt Continens in se opida marcatoria▪ xx. Pagos et Villas ccccxiiii. vna Cunt singulis hundredis et flu: minibus in ••odem

[ A]

ESSEX.

THE other part of the Trinobantes, toward the East called in the English Saxon tongue 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, and 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, in the Norman language Exssesa, of the situation toward the East, and the Saxons which inhabited it, and commonly Essex, is a Country large in compasse, fruitfull, full of Woods, [ B] plentifull of Saffron, and very wealthy: encircled, as it were, on the one side with the maine Sea, on the other with fishfull Rivers, which also doe affoord their peculiar commodities in great abundance. On the North side, the River Stour divideth it from Suffolke, on the East the Ocean windeth it selfe into it: On the South part, the Tamis being now growne great secludeth it from Kent like as in the West part the little River Ley from Midlesex, and Stort or Stour the lesse which runneth into it, from Hertford∣shire. In describing of this Country, according to my methode begunne, first I will speake of the memorable places by Ley and the Tamis, afterwards of those that bee [ C] further within, and upon the Sea-coast.

By Ley, in the English Saxon Tongue 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, there stretcheth out a great way in length and breadth a Forest serving for game, stored very full with Deere, that for their bignesse, and fatnesse withall, have the name above all other. In times past called it was by way of excellency Foresta de Essex,* 1.95 now Waltham Forest, of the towne Waltham, in the Saxons speech 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, that 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉; A wilde or wooddy habitation. This standeth upon Ley, where, by dividing his Chanell hee maketh divers Eights or Islands, and is not of any great Antiquity to make boast of. For, when the King∣dome of the Saxons beganne to decay, one Tovie, a man of great wealth and au∣thority, as wee reade in the private History of the place, The Kings Staller, that is, [ D] Standerd bearer, for the abundance of wilde beasts there, first founded it, and planted three∣score and sixe indwellers therein. After his death Athelstane his sonne quickly made a hand of all his goods and great estate: and King Edward the Confessour gave this Towne to Harold Earle Goodwins sonne:* 1.96 and streight wayes an Abbay was erected there, the worke and Tombe both of the said Harold. For, he being crept up by the errour of men and his owne ambition to regall Dignity built this Abbay in honour of an Holy Crosse found farre Westward, and brought hither, as they write, by mira∣cle. Heerein made he his prayers and vowes for victory when hee marched against Normans, and being soone after slaine by them, was by his mother, who had with most suppliant suite craved and obtained at the Conquerours hands his Corps, here [ E] entombed.* 1.97 But now it hath a Baron, namely Sir Edward Deny, called lately unto that honour by King Iames his Writ. Over this Towne upon the rising of an Hill standeth Copthall,* 1.98 and yeeldeth a great way off, a faire sight to seed mens eyes. This was the habitation in times past of Fitz-Aucher, and lately of Sir Thomas Heneage Knight, who made it a very goodly and beautifull house. Neere unto this River al∣so was seated,* 1.99 no doubt, DUROLITUM, a Towne of antique memory, which the Emperour Antonine maketh mention of, but in what place precisely, I am not a∣ble to shew. For, the ancient places of this County, (I tell you once for all before hand) lye hidden so enwrapped in obscurity, that I, who elsewhere could see some∣what, heerein, am heere more than dim-sighted. But if I may give my guesse, I [ F] would thinke that to have beene DUROLITUM, which retaining still some marke of the old name, is called at this day Leyton: that is, The Towne upon Ley, like as Durolitum in the British Tongue signifieth, The water Ley. A small Village it is in these daies, inhabited in scattering wise, five miles from London, for which five, through the carelesse negligence of transcribers is crept into Antonine xv.

That there was a common passage heere in times past over the River, a place nigh [ A] unto it called Ouldfourd seemeth to proove, in which when Queene Mawd wife to King Henry the First hardly escaped danger of drowning, shee gave order that a little beneath, at Stretford, there should bee a Bridge made over the water. There, the River brancheth into three severall streames, and most pleasantly watereth on every side the greene medowes: wherein I saw the remaines of a little Monaste∣rie which William Montfichet, a Lord of great name of the Normans race built, in the yeere of our Lord 1140. and forthwith Ley gathering it selfe againe into one chanell mildely dischargeth it selfe in the Tamis, whereupon the place is called Leymouth.

The Tamis which is mightily by this time encreased, doth violently carry away [ B] with him the streames of many waters, hath a sight (to speake onely of what is worth remembrance) of Berking,* 1.100 which Bede nameth Berecing, a Nunnery founded by Er∣kenwald Bishop of London,* 1.101 where Roding a little River entreth into the Tamis. This running hard by many Villages imparteth his name unto them, as Heigh Roding, Ei∣thorp Roding, Leaden Roding, &c. of the which, Leofwin a Nobleman gave one or two in times past, to the Church of Ely, for to expiate and make satisfaction for the wicked act hee had committed in murdering his owne mother:* 1.102 then, by Angre, where upon a very high Hill are the tokens of a Castle built by Richard Lucy Lord Chiefe Justice of England in the Raigne of Henry the Second: of which Family, a daughter and one of the heires,* 1.103 King Iohn gave in marriage to Richard Rivers, who [ C] dwelt hard by at Stranford Rivers.

* 1.104So it passeth by Lambourn Manour, which is held by service of the Wardstaffe, viz. to carry a load of strawe in a Carte with sixe horses, two ropes, two men in harnesse to watch the said Wardstaffe when it is brought to the Towne of Aibridge, &c. and then by Wansted Parke, where the late Earle of Leicester built much for his pleasure. From the mouth of this Roding, this Tamis hasteneth through a ground lying very flat and low,* 1.105 and in most places otherwhiles overflowne, (whereby are occasioned strong and unwholsome vapours exceeding hurtfull to the health of the neighbour Inha∣bitants) to Tilbury:* 1.106 neere unto which there bee certaine holes in the rising of a chalky Hill, sunke into the ground tenne sathome deepe, the mouth whereof is but [ D] narrow, made of stone cunningly wrought, but within they are large and spacious, in this forme, which hee that went downe into them described unto mee after this manner.

[illustration]

[ E] [ F]

[ A] Of which I have nothing else to say, but what I have delivered already. As for Tilbury,* 1.107 (Bede nameth it Tilaburgh) it consisteth of some few cottages by the Ta∣mis side, yet was it in ancient time the seate of Bishop Chad, when about the yeare of our Salvation 630. hee ingrafted the East-Saxons by Baptisme into the Church of Christ. Afterwards, this River passing by places lying flat and unwholesome, with a winding returne of his Water,* 1.108 severeth the Island CONVENNON, which also is called COUNOS, (whereof Ptolomee maketh mention) from the firme land.* 1.109 This hath not yet wholly foregone the old name, but is called Canvey. It lyeth against the Coast of Essex, from Leegh to Hole Haven, five miles in length: some part whereof appertaineth to the Collegiat Church of Westminster. But so [ B] low, that oftentimes it is quite overflowne, all save hillocks cast up, upon which the Sheepe have a place of safe refuge. For, it keepeth about foure hundred Sheepe, whose flesh is of a most sweet and delicate taste, which I have seene young lads ta∣king womens function, with stooles fastened to their buttockes to milke, yea and to make Cheeses of Ewes milke in those dairy sheddes of theirs, that they call there, Wiches.

There adjoyne to this Island along in order,* 1.110 first Beamfleot, fortified with deepe and wide Trenches (as saith Florilegus) and with a Castle, by Hasting the Dane, which King Aelfred wonne from them: Then Hadleigh, sometime the Castle of Hubert de Burgo, afterwards of Thomas of Woodstocke Duke of Glocester, now defaced with ru∣ines: [ C] and in the last place Leegh, a proper fine little Towne and very full of stout and adventerous Sailers: with Pritlewel fast by where Sweno de Essex built long since a Cell for Monkes. And here the land shooteth forward to make a Promontory, which they call Black-taile Point,* 1.111 and Shobery Nesse of Shobery a Village situate upon it; which sometime, was a City an Havenet named 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, For, in old Annales of the English-Saxons wee reade thus,* 1.112 The Danes being driven from Beamfleot, goe to a City seated in East-sex, called in the English Tongue Sceobirig, and there built themselves a sure and strong Fort. Heere by reason that the bankes on both sides shrinke backe, the Tamis at a huge and wide mouth rowleth into the sea. This doth Ptolomee terme Aestuarium TAMESAE, and corruptly in some other Copies TEMESAE, and [ D] we commonly, the Tamis Mouth.

More inward is Rochford placed,* 1.113 that hath given name to this Hundered: Now, it belongeth to the Barons Rich, but in old time it had Lords of ancient Nobility sir∣named thereof: whose inheritance came at length to Butler Earle of Ormond and Wiltshire, and from them to Sir Thomas Bullen, whom King Henry the Eighth crea∣ted Vicount Rochford,* 1.114 and afterward Earle of Wiltshire, out of whose Progeny sprung that most gracious Queene ELIZABETH, and the Barons of Hunsdon.

Heere I have heard much speech of a Lawlesse Court (as they called it) holden in a strange manner about Michaelmasse,* 1.115 in the first peepe of the day upon the first cocke crowing,* 1.116 in a silent sort; yet with shrowde fines eftsoones redoubled, if not [ E] answered, which servile attendance, they say was imposed upon certaine Tenants there-about for conspiring there at such unseasonable time, to raise a commotion. But I leave this knowing neither the originall, nor the certaine forme thereof. One∣ly I heard certaine obscure barbarous rhymes of it. Curia de Domino Rege tenetur sin•• lege. Ante ortum solis, luceat, nisi polus, &c. not worth remembring.

Leaving the Tamis Banke, and going farther within the countrey, yea from West to East, these places of name above the rest standing thus in order shew them∣selves.

Havering an ancient retiring place of the Kings,* 1.117 so called of a Ring, which in that place a Pilgrime delivered as sent from S. J. Baptist (for so they write) unto K. Edward the [ F] Confessor: Horn-Church, named in times past Cornutum Monasterium, that is, the horned Minster, for there shoot out at the East end of the Church certaine points of leade fashioned like hornes:* 1.118 Rumford, the glory whereof dependeth of a swine mercat; and Giddy-hall, an house adjoyning to it, which belonged to that Sir Thomas Cooke Major of London, whose great riches hoorded up together wrought him his greatest danger.

For, being judicially arraigned▪ (innocent man as he was) of high treason, and through [ A] the incorrupt equity of Judge Markham acquit in a most dangerous time, yet was he put to a very grievous fine,* 1.119 and stript in manner of all that he was worth: Brentwood called by the Normans Bois arse, in the same sense, and by that name King Stephen granted a Mercat and a Faire there, to the Abbat of S. Osith; and many yeares after Isabell Countesse of Bedford daughter to King Edward the Third built a Chappell to the memory of S. Thomas of Canterbury, for the ease of the Inhabitants: Enger∣stone a Towne of note for nothing else but the Mercat and Innes for Travailers.

Heere am I at a stand, and am halfe in a doubt whether I should now slip as an abortive fruite that conjecture, which my minde hath travailed with. Considering there hath beene in this Tract the City CAESAROMAGUS,* 1.120 and the same doubtlesse [ B] in the Romanes time of especiall note, and importance; for, the very name, if there were nothing else, may evict so much, signifying as it doth Caesars City, as DRUSO∣MAGUS the City of Drusus, which also should seeme to have beene built in the ho∣nour of Caesar Augustus. For, Suaetonius writeth thus, Kings, that were in amity and league, founded every one in his owne Kingdome Cities named Caesareae in honour of Au∣gustus. What if I should say that CAESAROMAGUS did stand neere unto Brent∣wood, would not a learned Reader laugh at me, as one Soothsayer doth when he spi∣eth another? Certes, no ground I have nor reason to strengthen this my conjecture from the distance thereof, seeing the numbers of the miles in Antonine be most cor∣ruptly put downe, which neverthelesse agree well enough with the distance from [ C] COLONIA and CANONIUM. Neither can I helpe my selfe with any proofe by the si∣tuation of it upon the Roman high-way, which in this enclosed country is no where to be seene. Neither verily there remaineth heere so much as a shadow or any twinkling shew of the name CAESAROMAGUS, unlesse it be (and that is but very sclender) in the name of an Hundred, which of old time was called Ceasford, and now Cheasford Hundred. Surely, as in some ancient Cities the names are a little altered, and in others cleane changed: so there be againe, wherein one syllable or twaine at most bee remaining: thus CAESARAUGUSTA in Spaine is now altered to be Sa∣ragosa: CAESAROMAGUS in France, hath lost the name cleane and is called Bea∣vois, and CAESAREA in Normandy, now Cherburg, hath but one syllable left of it. [ D] But what meane I thus to trifle, and to dwell in this point? If in this quarter here∣by, there bee not CAESAROMAGUS, let others seeke after it for me: It passeth my wit, I assure you, to finde it out, although I have diligently laid for to meet with it with net, and toile both of eares and eies.

* 1.121Beneath Brentwood I saw South-Okindon: where dwelt the Bruins a Family as fa∣mous as any one in this Tract: out of the two heires female whereof, being many times married to sundry husbands, Charles Brandon Duke of Suffolke, the Tirels, Berners, Harlestones, Heveninghams and others descended. And of that house there be males yet remaining in South-hampton-shire. Also, Thorndon, where Sir John Petre Knight raised a goodly faire house,* 1.122 who now was by our Soveraigne King James [ E] created Baron Petre of Writtle. That Thorndon was in times past the dwelling place of a worshipfull Family of Fitzlewis: the last of which name if we may beleeve the common report, by occasion that the house happened to be set on fire in the time of his wedding feast, was pittiously himselfe therein burnt to death▪ Burghsted, and more short Bursted, that is, the place of a Burgh, which name our forefathers used to give unto many places that were of greater antiquity. This I once supposed to have been CAESAROMAGUS: and what ever it was in old time, it is at this day but a good country Towne neere unto Byliricay, a Mercat towne of very good resort. Likewise Ashdowne,* 1.123 sometimes Assandun, that is, as Marian interpreteth it, the Mount of Asses, where long since a bloudy battaile was fought, in which King Edmund sirnamed [ F] Ironside had at the beginning a good hand of the Danes and put them to rout, but streight waies the fortune of the field turning about, he was so defeited that he lost a great number of the English Nobility. In memoriall of which battaile we reade that King Canutus the Dane built a Church afterward in that place, what time as

[ A] upon remorse and repentance for the bloud that he had shed, hee erected Chappels in what part soever he had fought any field, and shed Christian bloud.

Not farre from these, is Ralegh, a prety proper towne: and it seemeth to be Raganeia in Domesday booke, wherein is mention made of a Castle that Suenus heere built, in which also we read thus: There is one Parke and sixe Arpennes of Vineyard, and it yeeldeth twenty Modij of wine if it take well. Which I note the rather, both for the French word Arpenn and also for the wine made in this Isle.* 1.124 This Suenus was a man of great name and of noble birth, the sonne of Robert, sonne of Wiwarc, but father to Robert of Essex: whose son was that Sir Robert de Essex, who in right of inheritance was the Kings Standard bearer, and who for that in a light skirmish against the Welsh, hee [ B] had not onely cast off his courage, but also cast away his Standard; being chalenged for treason, vanquished in duell, or combat, and thereof thrust into a Cloystre, forfeited a goodly patrimony, and livelod, which was confiscate to King Henry the Second, and helped to fill his Coffers. As for the Barony, it lay dead from that time a great while in the Kings hands, untill Sir Hubert de Burgh obtained it of King John.

Above this the shores retiring backe by little and little admit two creekes of the Ocean entring within them: the one, the neighbour inhabitants call Crouch, the o∣ther Blackwater (which in old time was named Pant.) In the said Crouch, by reason of the waters division, there lie scattered foure Islands carrying a pleasant greene hew, but by occasion of inundations, growne to be morish and fenny, among which these [ C] two bee of greatest name, Wallot and Foulenesse: that is, The Promontory of Fowles, which hath a Church also in it: and when the sea is at the lowest ebbe, a man may ride over to it.* 1.125 Betweene these Creekes lieth Dengy Hundred, in ancient times Daun∣cing, passing plentifull in grasse, and rich in Cattaile, but Sheepe especially where all their doing is in making of Cheese:* 1.126 and there shall ye have men take the womens office in hand and milke Ewes: whence those huge thicke Cheeses are made that are vented and sould not onely into all parts of England, but into forraigne nations also, for the rusticall people, labourers, and handicraftes men to fill their bellies, and feed upon. The chiefe Towne heereof at this day is Dengy; so called as the Inhabitants are perswaded, of the Danes, who gave name unto the whole Hundred: Neere un∣to [ D] which is Tillingham, given by Ethelbert the first Christian King of the English-Sa∣xons, unto the Church of Saint Paul in London: and higher up to the North shore, flourished sometimes a City of ancient Record, which our forefathers called Ithan∣cestre. For, Ralph Niger writeth thus out of S. Bede. Bishop Chad baptized the East-Saxons neere to Maldon in the City of Ithancestre, that stood upon the banke of the River Pant, which runneth hard by Maldon, in Dengy Province; but now is that City drowned in the River Pant. To point out the place precisely I am not able, but I nothing doubt that the River called Froshwell at this day, was heeretofore named Pant: seeing that one of the Springs thereof is called Pantswell, and the Monkes of Coggeshall, so ter∣med it. Doubtlesse, this Ithancester was situate upon the utmost Promontory of [ E] this Dengy Hundred, where in these daies standeth Saint Peters upon the wall. For, a∣long this shore much a doe have the inhabitants to defend their grounds with forced bankes or walls against the violence of the Ocean, ready to inrush upon them. And I my selfe am partly of this minde, that this Ithancester was that OTHONA where a Band of the Fortenses with their Captaine, in the declination of the Romane Em∣pire, kept their station or Guard under the Comes or Lieutenant of the Saxon-shore, against the depredations of the Saxon Rovers: For the altering of OTHONA to ITHANA, is no hard straining: and the situation thereof upon a Creeke into which many Rivers are discharged, was for this purpose very fit and commodious, and yet heere remaineth a huge ruine of a thicke Wall, whereby many Romane [ F] Coines have beene found.

It seemeth not amisse to set downe, how King Edward the Confessour graunted by a briefe Charter the keeping of this Hundred to Ranulph * 1.127 Peperking, which I will willingly heere annex, to the end that wee, who sift every pricke and accent of the law, may see the upright simplicity and plaine dealing of that age. And thus goeth

the tenour of it, as it was taken forth of the Kings Records in the Exchequer, but [ A] by often exemplifying and copying it out, some words are mollified and made more familiar.

Iche Edward Koning * 1.128Have given of my Forrest the keeping. Of the Hundred of Chelmer and Dancing, To Randolph Peperking and to his kindling: With heorte and hinde, doe and bocke, Hare and Foxe, Cat and Brocke, Wild Fowell with his flocke, [ B] Partrich, Fesant hen, and Fesant cocke: With green and wilde stob and stocke. To kepen and to yemen by all her might, Both by day and eke by night: And Hounds for to hold Good and swift and bolde: Four Greahounds and six racches, For Hare and Foxe, and wild Cattes. And therefore ich made him my booke: Witnesse the Bishop Wolston [ C] And booke ylered many on, And Swein of Essex our Brother And teken him many other, And our Stiward Howelin That by sought me for him.

This was, the plaine dealing, trueth, and simplicity of that age, which used to make all their assurances whatsoever, in a few lines, and with a few gilt Crosses. For, before the comming in of the Normans, as wee read in Ingulphus, writings Ob∣ligatory were made firme with golden Crosses and other small signes or markes: but the Nor∣mans [ D] began the making of such Bils and Obligations,* 1.129 with a Print or Seale in wax, set to with every ones speciall Signet under the expresse entituling of three or foure Witnesses. Before time many houses and land thereto passed by grant and bargaine without script, Charter, or Deede onely with the Landlords sword or helmet, with his horne or cup. Yea and many Tenements were demised with a spurre, or horse-cury-combe, with a bowe, and some with an arrow.

In the Creeke of Blackwater, which as I said, closeth the North side of this Hun∣dred, and is stored with those dainty Oysters, which wee call Walfleot Oysters, their run two Rivers that water a great part of the Shire, Chelmer and Froshwell. The River Chelmer flowing out of the inner part of the country which is woody, runneth downe first by Thaxted a little Mercate Towne seated very pleasantly upon an high rising [ E] hill; also by Tiltey, where Maurice Fitz-Gilbert founded in times past a small Abbay, unto Estanues ad Turrim, now Eston, which noble Gentleman sirnamed De Lovaine inhabited, as descended from Godfrey of Lovaine brother to Henry the Sixth of that name Duke of Brabant, who being sent hither to keepe the Honor of Eye, his posterity flourished among the Peeres of this Realme to the time of King Edward the Third, when the heire generall was married into the house of Bourchier.

Thence it glideth downe to Dunmow, of old time called Dunmawg, and in the Tax booke of England Dunmaw, a Towne pleasantly situate upon an hill with a prety gentle fall. Where, one Juga founded a Priory in the yeare 1111. But William Bai∣nard, of whom Juga held (thus we finde it written in the private history of this Church) [ F] the Village of little Dunmow, by felony lost his Barony, and King Henry the First gave it to Robert the sonne of Richard, sonne to Gislebert Earle of Clare, and to his heires, with the honour of Bainards Castle in London: which Robert at that time was King Henries Sewar. These be the very words of the Author: neither doe I thinke it lawfull for me to alter

[ A] or reforme them otherwise than they are, although there be in them some 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, that is, a putting or mistaking of one time for another, a thing that we meet with otherwhiles in the best Historiographers. For, there had not beene, as then any Earle of Clare in the family of Clare.

Now let us for a while digresse and goe aside a little on either hand from the Ri∣ver. Not farre from hence is Plaisy seated, so called in French of Pleasing, in times past, named Estre, the habitation both in the last yeeres of the English Saxons, and also afterwards, of the great Constables of England, as witnesseth Ely booke. At this towne the first William Mandevill Earle of Essex beganne a Castle, and two Princes of great authority, Thomas of Woodstocke Duke of Glocester and Earle of Essex who foun∣ded [ B] heere a College, and Iohn Holland Earle of Huntingdon brother to King Richard the Second by the mothers side, deprived of lost honorable title of Duke of Excester, when they could not keepe a meane betweene froward stubbernesse and servile ob∣sequiousnesse, found thence their subversion. For Thomas, upon his rash and head∣strong contumacy was on a sudden violently carryed from hence to Calice and there smothered: and John, for a seditious conspiracy was beheaded in this place by King Henry the Fourth, that hee might seeme to have beene justly punished by way of satisfaction for the said Thomas of Woodstocke, of whose death hee was thought to bee the principall practiser, and procurer. From thence passeth Chelmer downe not farre from Leez, a little Abbay of old time founded by the Gernons, which at this [ C] day is the chiefe seat of the Barons Rich,* 1.130 who acknowledge themselves for this digni∣ty beholden to Richard Rich a most wise and judicious person; Lord Chancellor of England under King Edward the Sixth, who in the first yeere of his raigne created him Baron Rich. A little beneath, standeth Hatfield Peverell, so denominated of Ran∣dulph Peverell the owner thereof, who had to wife a Lady of incomparable beauty, in those daies; the daughter of Ingelricke a man of great nobility among the English-Saxons: This Lady founded heere a College, which now is in manner quite plucked downe,* 1.131 and in a window of the Church, whereof there remaineth still a small part, lyeth entombed. She bare unto her husband William Peverell Castellane of Dover, Sir Payne Peverell Lord of Brun in the County of Cambridge: and unto King William the [ D] Conquerour whose Paramore shee was, William Peverell Lord of Nottingham. But now returne we to Chelmer, which by this time speedeth it selfe to Chelmerford com∣monly Chensford (where, by the distance of the place from CAMALODUNUM, it may seeme that old CANONIUM sometimes stood).* 1.132 This is a good bigge Towne situate in the heart of the Shire betweene two Rivers, who as it were, a∣greed heere to joyne both their streames together: to wit Chelmer from the East, and another from the South, the name whereof if it be Can, as some would have it, we have no reason to doubt, that this was CANONIUM.

Famous it was within the remembrance of our fathers in regard of a small religi∣ous house built by Malcome King of Scots, now of note onely for the Assises (for so [ E] they call those Courts of Iustice wherein twice a yeere the causes and controversies of the whole County are debated before the Judges.) It beganne to flourish, when Maurice Bishop of London, unto whom it belonged, built the Bridges heere in the Raigne of Henry the First, and turned London way thither, which lay before through Writtle, a Towne right well knowne for the largenesse of the Parish: which, King Henry the Third granted unto Robert Brus Lord of Anandale in Scotland: (whose wife was one of the heires of Iohn sirnamed Scot, the last Earle of Chester) for that hee would not have the Earldome of Chester to bee divided among the di∣staves: and King Edward the Third, when as the posterity of the Bruses forsooke their allegeance, bestowed it upon Humfrey Bohun Earle of Hereford and of Essex. [ F] But now of late, when King Iames at his entrance to the Kingdome bestowed Baro∣nies bountifully upon select persons, hee created Sir Iohn Petre a right respective Knight, Baron Petre of Writtle. Whose father Sir William Petre a man of approoved wisdome and exquisite learning, memorable not so much for those most honourable places and offices of State which hee bare, (as who was of the Privie Counsell to

King Henry the Eighth, King Edward the Sixth, Queene Mary, and Queene Eliza∣beth, [ A] and sent oftentimes in Embassage to forreigne Princes) as for that being bred and brought up in good learning, he well deserved of learning in the University of Oxford, and was both pitifull and bounteous to his poore neighbours about him, and at Egerstone, where he lyeth buryed.

Frosh-well the River, more truely called Pant, and neere to his mouth, Black-water issuing out of a small spring about Radwinter that belonged to the Barons of Cobham, after it hath gone a long course and seene nothing but Bocking a fat Parsonage, it commeth to Cogeshall, a Mercate Towne, well knowne in times past for a Priory of Cluniacke Monkes built by King Stephen, and the habitation of ancient Knights thence sirnamed De Cogeshall,* 1.133 from whose heire generall marryed into the old fa∣mily [ B] of Tirell,* 1.134 there branched farre a faire propagation of the Tirells in this shire and elsewhere.* 1.135 Then goeth on this water by Easterford, some call it East-Sturford: and leaving some mile of Whitham a faire through-faire and built by King Edward the elder, in the yeere 914. which also afterward was of the Honour of Eustace Earle of Bollen; meeteth at length with Chelmer. Which now passing on whole in one chanell not farre from Danbury mounted upon an high Hill, the habitation for a time of the family of the Darcies, runneth hard by Woodham-walters, the ancient seate of the Lords Fitz-Walters: who being nobly descended were of a most an∣cient race, derived from Robert the younger sonne of Richard sonne to Earle Gisle∣bert: but in the age more lately foregoing, translated by a daughter into the stocke [ C] of the Ratcliffes, who being advanced to the Earledome of Sussex dwell now a little from hence in New Hall, a stately and sumptuous house. This New Hall appertained sometime to the Butlers Earles of Ormond, and then hereditarily to Sir Thomas Bol∣len Earle of Wiltshire, of whom King Henry the Eighth getting it by way of Ex∣change, enlarged it to his exceeding great charges, and called it by a new name Beau∣lieu, which for all that was never currant among the people. After this, Chelmer with other waters running with him, being divided by a River-Island, casting off that name, and now being called of some Blacke-water and of others Pant, saluteth that ancient Colony of the Romanes CAMALODUNUM,* 1.136 which many hundred yeeres since adorned this shore. Ptolomee tearmeth it CAMUDOLANUM, An∣tonine [ D] CAMULODUNUM and CAMOLUDUNUM: But, Pliny, Dio, and an old marble stone, induce us to beleeve that CAMALODUNUM is the right name. In the seeking out of this City, good God, how dim-sighted have some been? whereas it bewraied it selfe by the very name and situation; and shewed it selfe cleerely to them that are halfe blinde: A number have searched for it in the West part of this Isle, as that good man, who thought himselfe to carry, as one would say, the Sunne of Antiquity in his owne hand: others in the furthest part of Scot∣land: others wholly addicted in opinion to Leland affirmed it to bee Colchester: when as (the name scarce any whit maimed) it is called at this day, in stead of CA∣MALODUNUM, Maldon,* 1.137 in the Saxon Tongue 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, and 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, the [ E] greater part of the word remaining yet entire and in use. Neither hath the expresse remaine of the name onely perswaded me to this, but also the distance set downe in Pliny from Mona, and the very situation in the ancient Itinerary Table doe affoord a most evident proofe thereof. That this name was imposed upon CAMALO∣DUNUM, of the God CAMULUS, I hardly dare imagine. Howbeit that Mars was worshipped under this name Camulus, both an old stone at Rome in the house of Collotians, and Altars discovered with this Inscription CAMULO DEO SAN∣CTO ET FORTISSIMO,* 1.138 that is, TO CAMULUS THE HOLY AND MOST MIGHTY GOD, doe joyntly proove. And in an antique Coine of Cu∣nobellinus, whose royall Palace this was, (as I have already said) I have seene the por∣traict [ F] stamped of an head having an helmet on it, also with a speare, which may seeme to be that of Mars, with these letters, CAMV. But seeing this peece of money is not now ready at hand to shew, I exhibite here unto you other expresse portraicts of Cuno∣bellinus his peeces, which may be thought to have reference to this Camalodunum.

[ A] [ B]

[illustration]

This Cunobelin governed this East part of the Isle in the time of Tiberius the Em∣perour, and seemeth to have had three sonnes, Admimus, Togodumnus, and Cata∣cratus. Admimus by his father banished, was entertained by Caius Caligula the Empe∣rour what time as he made his ridiculous expedition into Batavia, that from thence [ C] he might blow, and breath out the terrour of his owne person over into Britaine. As for Togodumnus, Aulus Plautius in a set battaile defeited and slew him, and over Cata∣cratus, whom, as I said, he discomfited and put to flight, hee rode ovant in pety tri∣umph. This is that Plautius, who at the perswasion of C. Bericus, the Britaine a bani∣shed man (for there never want quarels one or other of Warre) was the first after Iulius Caesar that attempted Britaine under Claudius:* 1.139 whom Claudius himselfe, ha∣ving shipped over the Legions, followed in person with the whole power of the Empire, and with Elephants (the bones of which beasts being found, have deceived very many) hee passed over the Tamis and put to flight the Britans, who upon the banke received and encountred him as he came toward them; and wonne with ease [ D] this Camalodunum the Kings seat. For which exploit after hee had named his sonne BRITANNICUS, and beene himselfe oftentimes saluted Imperator, within sixe moneths after he set first forth in his voyage, returned to Rome. But heereof have I have written before more at large, neither list I to iterate the same in this place.

When Camalodunum was thus brought under the Romanes subjection, Claudius planted a Colony there with a strong Band of old tried Souldiers, and in memoriall heereof ordained peeces of money to bee stamped with this Inscription: COL. CAMALODUN. Out of which it is gathered, that this happened in the XII. yeere of his Empire, and in the yeere 52. after the Birth of Christ. And in regard of those old experienced souldiers of the fourteenth Legion called Gemina Martia Vi∣ctrix, [ E] whom Tacitus tearmeth the Subduers of Britaine, brought thither and placed in it, it was named COLONIA VICTRICENSIS, and the Inhabitants Cives Roma∣ni, that is, Citizens of Rome, in an old Inscription, which I heere present to you.

CN. MUNATIUS. M. F. PAL. AURELIUS BASSUS PROC. AUG. PRAEF. FABR. RRAEF. COH. III. SAGITTARIORUM, PRAEF. [ F] COH. ITERUM II. ASTURUM, CENSITOR CIVIUM ROMA∣NORUM COLONIAE VICTRI∣CENSIS QUAE EST IN BRI∣TANNIA CAMALODUNI, &c.

A Colony (if it may be materiall to know so much) is A Company of men that be all [ A] brought into one certaine place,* 1.140 built with houses to their hands, which they are to have and hold by a certaine right. For the most part, old souldiers that had served long, were brought to such a place, both that themselves might be provided for, and maintained, and also be ready in all extremity to helpe against Rebels, and enforme withall the Provincials in their duties by law required. These Colonies also were of great estimation, as being pety resemblances and images, as it were, of the City of Rome. Moreover they had their peculiar Magistrates both superior and inferior: Of which because others have written sufficiently, I neede not to stand either upon them, or such like points. In this first Colony that the Romanes planted in Britaine, there was a Temple built unto * 1.141 Divus Claudius, Tacitus tearmeth it, The Altar of eter∣nall [ B] dominion, Whereof Seneca maketh mention in his Play, after this manner. A small matter it is, saith hee, and not sufficient, that Claudius hath a Temple in Britaine which the Barbarous Nation adoreth, and prayeth unto, as to a God. There were Priests also ele∣cted in honour of him, by name Sodales Augustales, which under a shew of Religion lavishly consumed the Britans goods. But after ten yeeres, fortune turned her wheele and downe went this Colony. For, when those old souldiers brought into these terri∣tories which they had won, exercised extreame cruelty upon these silly people, the burning broiles of Warre which before were quenched brake out into flames, with greater flashes. The Britans under the leading of Bunduica, who also is called B••o∣dicia, by maine force sacked and set on fire this Colony, lying unfortified and without [ C] all fence, and within two daies wonne the said Temple whereinto the souldiers had thronged themselves. The Ninth Legion comming to aide they put to flight, and in one word slew of Roman Citizens and associates together threescore and tenne thousand.* 1.142 This slaughter was foretold by many Prodigies. The Image of Victory in this City was turned backeward and fallen downe: In their Senate house strange noises were heard▪ The Theater resounded with howlings and yellings: Houses were seene under the water of Tamis, and the Arme of the sea beneath it overflowed the bankes as red as blood to see to, which now (for what cause I know not) wee call Blacke water,* 1.143 like as Ptolomee termed it IDUMANUM aestuarium, under which is cou∣ched a signification of Blacknesse: for, Yd••, in the British tongue soundeth as much as [ D] Blacke. Yet, out of the very embers, the Romans raised it againe: For, Antonine the Emperour made mention of it many yeeres after. Howbeit in the English Saxons government it is scarce mentioned: Onely Marianus hath written, that Edward the sonne of Aelfred repaired Maldun when it was sore shaken by the furious rage of the Danes, and then fortified it with a Castle. William the Norman, Conquerour of England, as we reade in his * 1.144 Commentary, had in this Towne 180 houses in the tenure and occupation of Burgesses, and 18. Mansions wasted. But at this day, for the number of the Inhabitants, and the bignesse, it is worthily counted one of the principall Townes in all Essex, and in Records named, The Burgh of Maldon.

It is a Haven commodious enough, and for the bignesse very well inhabited, be∣ing [ E] but one especiall street descending much about a mile in length. Upon the ridge of an hill answerable to the termination of Dunum which signified an hilly, and high situation, wherein I saw nothing memorable, unlesse I should mention two silly Churches, a desolate place of White Friers, and a small pile of Bricke built not long since by R. Darcy, which name hath beene respective heereabout.

Hence passing downe over the brackish water divided into two streamlets, by Highbridge, I sought for an ancient place which Antonine the Emperour placed sixe miles from Camalodunum, in the way toward Suffolke, and called it AD ANSAM.

This I have thought to have beene some Bound belonging to the Colony of Ca∣malodunum, which resembled the fashion of Ansa,* 1.145 that is, The handle or eare of a pot. [ F] For, I had read in Siculus Flaccus, The Territories lying to Colonies were limited with divers and sundry markes: In the limits there were set up for bound-markes heere one thing, and there another: in one place little Images, in another long earthen Vessels: heere you should have little sword blades, three square stones or Lozenges pointed, and elsewhere ac∣cording

[ A] to Vitalis and Arcadius, they were mere stones like flagons and small wine pipes: why might not therefore a stone fashioned like the handle of a pot bee set for a bound? Seeing that Antony according to his wonted manner called it Ad Ansam, and not Ansae? But how religiously and with what ceremoniall complements, these bound-markes were in old time set, I will by way of digression set downe heere out of the same Siculus Flaccus. When they were to place their bound markes, the very stones themselves they did set upon the firme ground, hard by those places wherein they ment to pitch them fast, in pittes or holes digged for the purpose, they annointed them and with vailes and garlands bedecked them. This done, in those pits wherein they were to put them, after sacrifice made, and an unspotted beast killed, upon burning firebrands covered over in the grave, they [ B] dropped in bloud, and thereupon they threw Frankincense and corne, Hony combes also and wine with other things, as the manner is to sacrifice unto gods of bounds and limits, they threw after the rest into the said pit. Thus when all these Viands were consumed with fire, they pitched the foresaid bound markes upon the hot ashes thereof, and so with carefull diligence fastened them strongly, and rammed them round about with fragments of stones, that they might stand the surer. But in what place soever this Ad Ansam was, I betake my selfe againe to my former opinion for the signification of the word: namely, that Ad Ansam was either a bound marke, or onely, a resting place or some Inne by the high way side under such a signe: and that I collect by the distance to have beene neere unto Cogeshall. Neither were they any things else but bound markes or Innes, that in the Romane [ C] age were named after the same forme of speech,* 1.146 Ad Columnam, Ad Fines, Ad tres Tabernas, Ad Rotam, Ad septem Fratres, Ad Aquilam minorem, Ad Herculem, &c. that is, At the Pillar, At the Bounds, At the three Taverns, At the Wheele, At the seven Brethren, At the lesse Aegle, At Hercules, &c.

And therefore to search more curiously into these matters, were nothing else but to hunt after the windes. Yet I will heere impart what I incidently happened up∣on in a private note, while I was inquisitive heereabout for Ad Ansam. In a place called Westfield three quarters of a mile distant from Cogeshall and belonging to the Abbay there, was found by touching of a plough a great brasen Pot. The Ploughmen supposing it to have beene hid treasure, sent for the Abbot of Cogeshall to see the taking up of it; and hee going [ D] thither met with Sir Clement Harleston, and desired him also to accompany him thither. The mouth of the Pot was closed with a white substance like paste or clay, as hard as burned bricke, when that by force was removed, there was found within it another Pot but that was of earth; that being opened there was found in it a lesser Pot of earth of the quantity of a Gollon covered with a matter like Velvet, and fastened at the mouth with a silke-lace. In it they found some whole bones and many peeces of small bones wrapped up in fine silke of fresh colour, which the Abbot tooke for the Reliques of some Saints, and layed up in his Vestuary. But this by way of digression, leaving it to your consideration.

From Malden the Shores drawne backe intertaine the Sea in a most large and pleasant Bay, which yeeldeth exceeding great store of those Oysters of the best [ E] kinde, which we call Walfleot. And (that our Coasts should not be defrauded of their due fame and glory) I take these to bee those very Shores, which, as Pliny saith, ser∣ved the Romanes Kitchins: seeing that Mutianus giveth unto British Oysters the third place after those of Cizicum, in these very words of his: The Oysters of Cizi∣cum be greater than those that come from Lucrinum, and sweeter than they of Britaine.

But neither at that time, nor afterwards, when Sergius Orata brought those Lu∣crine Oysters into such name and great request, did the British Shores, as hee saith, Serve Rome with Oysters.* 1.147 So that hee may seeme to have given the chiefe price unto British Oysters. Neither thinke I were those Oysters other than these which A••so∣nius called Mira, that is, Wonderfull, in this Verse to Paulinus.

[ F]

Mira Caledonius nonnunquam detegit astus.

The British Tides sometimes lay bare, Those Oysters huge, that wonderous are.

But, of these Oysters and of their pits or stewes in this Coast I will give those [ A] leave to write, who being deinty toothed are judicious Clerkes in Kitchenry.

Into this Creeke, beside other Rivers, Coln sheddeth himselfe, which growing to an head out of divers Springs in the North part of this County, passeth by the Towne of Hedningham or Hengham, commonly called Heningham, where was a goodly faire proper Castle in times past, and the ancient habitation of the Earles of Oxford who procured a Mercat thereunto. Over against which, upon the other side of the River standeth Sibble Heningham, the place, as I have heard say, wherein was borne Sir Iohn Hawkwood (the Italians corruptly call him Aucuthus) whom they so highly admired for his warlike prowesse,* 1.148 that the State of Florence in regard of his notable demerites adorned him with the statue of a man of Armes and an hono∣rable [ B] Tombe, in testimony of his surpassing valour and singular faithfull service to their state. The Italians resound his worthy Acts with full mouth, and Paulus Iovius in his Elogia commendeth him. But for my part it may suffice to adde unto the rest this * 1.149 Tetrasticon of Iulius Feroldus.

Hawkwood Anglorum decus, & decus addite genti Italicae, Italico praesidiúmque solo. Ut tumuli quondam Florentia, sic simulachri, Virtutem Iovius donat honore tuam. The glory prime of Englishmen, then of Italians bold, [ C] O Hawkwood and to Italy a sure defensive hold: Thy vertue Florence honoured sometime with costly grave, And Iovius adorn's the same now with a statue, brave.

This renowned Knight thus celebrated abroad, was forgotten at home, save that some of his kinde souldierly followers founded a Chantery at Castle Heningham for him and for two of his military Companions,* 1.150 Iohn Oliver and Thomas Newenton Esquires.* 1.151

From hence the River Coln, holding on his course by Hawsted, which was the seat of the Family of the Bourchiers, whence came Robert Bourchier Lord Chauncellour [ D] of England in the time of King Edward the Third, and from him sprang a most ho∣norable Progeny of Earles and Barons of that name. Thence by Earles Coln (so cal∣led of the Sepulture there of the Earles of Oxford) where Aubry de Vere in the time of King Henry the First founded a little Monastery and became himselfe a religious Monke;* 1.152 it comes to Colonia, whereof Antonine the Emperour maketh mention, and which he noteth to bee a different place from the Colony Camalodunum. Now whether this tooke name of a Colony hither brought, or of the river Coln, Apollo him∣selfe had neede to tell us: I would rather derive it from the river, seeing, as I doe, that many little Townes situate upon it, are named Coln. A Earles Colne, Wakes Colne, Colne Engaine,* 1.153 Whites Colne, bearing the names all of their Lords. The Britaines cal∣led [ E] this Caer Colin, the Saxons 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, and wee Colchester. A proper and fine Burrough it is, well traded and pleasantly seated, as being situate upon the brow of an hill, stretching out from West to East, walled about, beautified with 15. Churches, besides that large and stately one, without the walles, which Endo Sewar to King Henry the First consecrated unto Saint Iohn, now ruinated, and converted into a pri∣vate dwelling house.* 1.154 In the middest of the Towne, there is a Castle now yeelding to time ready to fall: which as our Historians write, Edward the sonne of Aelfred first raised from the ground, what time as he repaired Colchester defaced with warres, and long after Mawde the Empresse gave it to Alberic Vere to assure him to her Party.

The infinite deale of ancient Coine daily gotten out of the ground there doth [ F] most plainly shew that this flourished in the Roman time in happy estate. Yet have I light of no peeces more ancient than of Gallienus. For, the most were such as had up∣on them the Inscriptions of the Tetrici, and the Victori••i, of Posthumus, C. Carausius, Constantine, and the Emperours that followed him. The Inhabitants affirme, that

[ A] Flavia Iulia Helena the mother of Constantine the Great was borne and bred there,* 1.155 being the daughter of King Coel: and in memory of the Crosse which shee found, they give for their Armes a Crosse enragled betweene foure Crownes: whence it is, that our Necham as touching her, and this place came out with these Verses, although Apollo was not greatly his friend therein,

Effulsit sydus vitae, Colcestria lumen Septem Climatibus lux radiosa dedit. Sydus erat Constantinus, decus imperiale, Servijt huic flexo poplite Roma potens.

[ B] From out of thee, O Cholchester, there shone a Starre of life, The raies whereof to Climats seven gave great and glorious light, This Starre was Constantine the Great, that noble Emperour, Whom Rome in all obedience lay prostrate to adore.

Verily shee was a woman of life most holy, and of invincible resolution and con∣stancy in propagation of Christian Religion: Whereupon in ancient Inscriptions she is every where named PIISSIMA, and VENERABILIS AUGUSTA, that is, Most DEVOUT, and VENERABLE EMPRESSE. Beneath this, where [ C] the River Coln runneth into the Sea,* 1.156 standeth to be seene Saint Osithes, a little Towne, whose ancient name, which was Chic, is growne out of use by reason of Osith the Virgin of royall Parentage, who being wholy devoted to the Service of God, and stabbed there to death by the Danish Pirates, was of our Ancestours honoured for a Saint: and in her memoriall Richard Bishop of London about the yeare 1120. built a religious house, of Regular Chanons. But now it is the chiefe seate of the right honourable Lords Darcy, called De Chich, whom King Edward the Sixth advanced to the honour of Barons when hee created Sir Thomas Darcy his Counsellour,* 1.157 Vice-chamberlaine, and Captaine of the Guard, Lord Darcy of Chich.

From hence the Shore shooting out, buncheth foorth as farre as to the Promon∣tory [ D] Nesse,* 1.158 which in the English-Saxon tongue is called 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉. What hath beene found in this place, have heere out of the words and credit of Ralphe the Monke of Coggeshall, who wrote 350. yeares agoe. In King Richards time, on the Sea∣shore, at a Village called Eadulphnesse,* 1.159 were found two teeth of a certaine Giant, of such a huge bignesse, that two hundred such teeth as men have now a daies might bee cut out of them. These saw I at Coggeshall (quoth hee) and not without wondering. And such ano∣ther Giantlike thing (I wot not what) as this, was in the beginning of Queene Eli∣zabeths Raigne digged up by R. Candish a Gentleman, neere unto this place. Nei∣ther doe I deny, but there have beene men, that for their huge bodies, and firme strength were wonderous to behold: whom God, as S. Austin saith, would have [ E] to live upon the earth, thereby to teach us, that neither beauty of body, nor talnesse of stature, are to bee counted simply good things, seeing they bee common as well to Infidels as to the godly. Yet may we very well thinke, that which Suetonius hath written, namely that the huge limmes of monstrous Sea-creatures else where, and in this Kingdome also, were commonly said and taken to have beene Giants bones.

From this Promontory, the shore bendeth backe by little and little to the mouth of Stoure, a place memorable for the battaile at Sea there fought betweene the English and Danes in the yeare 884. where now lyeth Harewich a most safe Road,* 1.160 whence it hath the name:* 1.161 For, 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉 in the English-Saxon tongue, betokeneth a Station, or a creeke where an Army encamped. The Towne is not great, but well peopled, forti∣fied [ F] by Art and Nature, and made more sensible by Queene Elizabeth. The salt water so creeketh about it, that it almost insulateth it, but thereby maketh the Springs so brackish, that there is a defect of fresh water, which they fetch some good way off.

This is the Stoure, that running betweene Essex and Suffolke serveth as a bound to them both, and on this side watereth nothing else but rich and fruitfull fields.

But not farre from the head thereof standeth Bumstead, which the Family of Helion [ A] held by Barony, from whom the Wentworths of Gosfield are descended.

And what way this Country looketh toward Cambridge-shire Barklow sheweth it selfe,* 1.162 well knowne now, by reason of foure little hils or Burries cast up by mans hand: such as in old time were wont to be raised (so some would have it) as Tombes for Soldiers slaine,* 1.163 whose Reliques were not easie to be found. But when a fifth and sixth of them were not long since digged downe, three troughes of stone were found, and in them broken bones of men, as I was informed. The country people say that they were reared after a field there fought against the Danes.* 1.164 For, Dane-wort which with bloud-red berries, commeth up heere plenteously, they still call by no other name than Danes-bloud,* 1.165 of the number of Danes that were there slaine, verily [ B] beleeving that it blometh from their bloud.

* 1.166A little below standeth upon a hill Walden of Saffron, called Saffron Walden, a∣mong the fields looking merily with most lovely Saffron. A very good Mercat towne incorporated by King Edward the Sixth with a Treasurer, two Chamberlaines and the Commonalty.* 1.167 Famous in times past it was for a Castle of the Magnavilles (which now is almost vanished out of sight) and an Abbay adjoyning, founded in a place very commodious in the yeare 1136. wherein the Magnavilles founders thereof were buryed. Geffrey de Magnavilla was the first that gave light and life (as it were) to this place. For Mawde the Empresse in these words (out of her very Patent I copy them) gave unto him Newport (a good bigge Towne, this is hard by). For so much as [ C] hee was wont to pay that day whereon (as her words are) my father King Henry was alive and dead: and to remove the Mercat from Newport into his Castle of Walden, with all the cu∣stomes that before time in better manner appertained to that Mercat, to wit in Toll, passage and other customes, and that the waies of Newport neere unto the water banke bee directed streight according to the old custome into Walden, upon the ground forfeited unto me: and that the Mercat of Walden be kept upon Sunday and Thursday: and that a Faire bee holden at Walden to begin on Whitsunday even, and to last all the Whitson weeke. (And from that time, by occasion of this Mercat, for a great while it was called Cheping Walden). Also as it is in the Booke of Walden Abbay, hee the said Geffrey appointed Walden to bee the principall place and seat of his honour and Earledome for him and his Successours. The place [ D] where hee built the Abbay had plenty of waters, which rising there continually doe runne and never faile. Late it is ere the Sunne riseth and shineth there, and with the soonest he doth set and carry away his light, for that the hilles on both sides stand against it.

That place now they call Audley End, of Sir Thomas Audley Lord Chancellour of England, who changed the Abbay into his owne dwelling house. This Thomas, created by King Henry the Eighth Baron Audley of Walden,* 1.168 left one sole daughter and heire Margaret, second wife to Thomas Howard Duke of Norfolke, of whom hee be∣gat Lord Thomas, Lord William, Lady Elizabeth, and Lady Margaret. The said Thomas employed in sundry Sea-services with commendation Queene Elizabeth summoned by Writ unto the High Court of Parliament, among other Barons of the Realme, by [ E] the name of Lord Howard of Walden.* 1.169 And King James of late girded him with the sword of the Earldome of Suffolke, and made him his Chamberlaine: who in this place hath begunne a magnificent Building. Neere to another house of his at Che∣sterford, there was a Towne of farre greater antiquity, hard by Icaldun, in the very border of the Shire,* 1.170 which now of the old Burgh, the rusticall people use to call Burrow Banke, where remaine the footings onely of a Towne lying in manner dead, and the manifest tract of the very walles. Yet will I not say, that it was VILLA FAUSTINI, which Antonine the Emperour placeth in this Tract: and albeit

Ingrata haud lati spatia detinet campi, Sed rure vero, barbaróque laetatur: [ F] It takes not up large ground that yeelds no gaine, But Country like, is homely rude and plaine:

Yet dare not I once dreame that this is that Villa Faustini, which in these and other Verses is by that pleasant and conceited Poet Martiall, depaincted

[ A] in his Epigrams. The fieldes heere on every side (as I said) smell sweetly, and smile pleasantly with Saffron,* 1.171 a commodity brought into England in the time of King Ed∣ward the Third. This in the moneth of ••uly every third yeere, when the heads there∣of have been plucked up and after twenty daies spitted or set againe under mould, about the end of September they put foorth a whitish blew flower, out of the mid∣dle whereof there hang three redde fillets of Saffron (we call them Chives) which are gathered very early in the morning before the Sunne rising, and being plucked out of the flower, are dried at a soft fire. And so great increase commeth heereof that out of every acre of ground there are made fourescore or an hundred pounds weight of Saffron, while it is moist: which being dried yeeld some twe••••y pound [ B] in weight. And that, which a man would marvell more at, the ground which three yeeres together hath borne Saffron, will beare aboundance of Barley eigh∣teene yeeres together without any dunging or manuring, and then againe beare Saffron as before if the inhabitants there have not misinformed me, or I mis-concei∣ved them.

More into the South is Clavering seated,* 1.172 which King Henry the Second gave un∣to Sir Robert Fits-Roger (from whom the family of Evers are issued.) The posterity of this Sir Roger, after they had a long time taken their name of their fathers fore∣name, or Christen-name according to that ancient custome, as Iohn Fitz-Robert, Ro∣bert Fitz-Iohn, &c. afterwards, by the commandement of King Edward the First, [ C] they assumed from hence the name of Clavering.* 1.173 But of these I am to speake in Nor∣thumberland. Stansted Montfichet heere also putteth up the head: which I will not passe over in silence, considering it hath been the Baronie or habitation in times past of the family De Monte Fisco,* 1.174 commonly Mont-fitchet, who bare for their Armes three Cheverus Or, in a shield Gueles, and were reputed men of very great nobility. But five of them flourished in right line: and at the last three sisters were seized of the inhe∣ritance, Margaret wife of Hugh De Boleber, Aveline wedded to William De Fortibus Earle of Aumarle, and Philip wife to Hugh Playz. The posterity male of this Hugh flourished within the remembrance of our great Grandfathers, and determined in a daughter married to Sir Iohn Howard Knight; from whose daughter by Sir George [ D] Vere, descended the Barons Latimer, and the Wingfeldes.

And a little below,* 1.175 is Haslingbury to bee seene, the residence of the Barons Mor∣ley: of whom I shall speake more in Norfolke. And close to this, standeth an an∣cient Fort or Military fense thereof named Walbery:* 1.176 and more East-ward Barring∣ton Hall, where dwelleth that right ancient Family of the Barringtons, which in the Raigne of King Stephen the Barons of Montfiche•• enriched with faire possessi∣ons, and more ennobled their house in our fathers remembrance by matching with one of the daughters and coheires of Sir Henry Pole, Lord Montacute, sonne of Mar∣garet Countesse of Salisbury, descended of the Bloud Royall.

Neither is Hatfield Regis,* 1.177 commonly called of a broad spread Oke, Hatfield Brad-Oake [ E] to be omitted, where Robert Vere Earle of Oxford built a Priory, and there lieth entombed crosse-legged with a French inscription, wherein he is noted to be first of that name Robert, and third Earle of Oxford.

After the comming of the Normans, Mande the Empresse, Lady of the English (for so shee stiled herselfe) created Geffrey De Magnavilla,* 1.178 usually called Mandevil, son to William by Margaret daughter and heire of E••do the Steward or Shewar, the first Earle of Essex, that shee might so by her benefits oblige unto her a man both mighty and martiall. Who in those troublesome times under King Stephen despoiled of his estate made an end of his owne turbulent life with the sword. And hee verily for his wicked deeds (as I finde in an old Writer) justly incurred the worlds censure and [ F] sentence of excommunication:* 1.179 in which while hee stood, hee was deadly wounded in the head at a little Towne called Burwell. When he lay at the point of death ready to give his last gaspe there came by chance certaine Knights Templars, who laid upon him the habit of their reli∣gious Profession signed with a red Crosse, and afterwards when hee was full dead, taking him up with them, enclosed him within a Coffin of Lead, and hunge him upon a tree in the

Orchard of Old Temple at London. For in a reverent awe of the Church they durst not [ A] bury him, because he dyed excommunicated. After him succeeded Geffry his sonne, who was restored by Henry the Second to his fathers honours and Estate for him, and his heires; but he having no children left them to his brother William, who by his wife was also Earle of Albemarle, and dyed likewise in his greatest glory issue∣lesse. Some yeares after K. John promoted Geffrey Fitz-Petre, Justicer of England, a wise and grave Personage unto this honour in consideration of a great masse of mo∣ney and Title by his wife Beatrice the eldest daughter of William de Say, who was the sisters sonne of that great Geffrey de Magnavill, the first Earle of Essex. This Fitz-Petre, a man (as an old Authour writeth) Passing well monied had formerly dealt with the Bishop of Ely the Kings chiefe Justicer, for a great peece of money presently paid and [ B] by intreaty beside; and then claimed, and demanded the Earledome in his wives right, as be∣ing the daughter of William Say eldest brother to Geffrey Say. Who gave him full Seisin thereof, (against Geffrey Say) and required the money that hee promised: which within a short time hee received of him every penny well and truely paid, for to bee brought into the Kings coffers. Thus being admitted, and confirmed by the Kings Letters Patent, hee held and possessed it taking Homage of all that held of him in Knights service.. And so was girt with the sword of the Earledome of Essex by King John at the solemnity of his Corona∣tion. This Geffrey Fitz-Petre was advanced to the high estate of Justicer of England by King Richard the First, when hee removed Hubert Archbishop of Canterbury from [ C] that Office by the Popes peremptory command: for that Bishops ought not to inter∣medle in secular affaires. This Place the said Geffrey Fitz-Petre executed with great commendation preserving by his wisedome the Realme from that confusion which it after fell into by King Johns unadvised carriage.* 1.180 His two Sonnes Geffrey and Willi∣am, assumed unto them the sirname of Magnavill or Mandevill, and enjoyed this honour successively. As for Geffrey, hee by his wife was Earle of Glocester also, and being a young man lost his life at a Turneament. William tooke part with Lewis of France against King John, and departed out of this World without issue. These being thus dead childelesse, their sisters sonne Humfrey de Bohun Earle of Hereford and high Constable of England, succeeded in their roome.

* 1.181Of this mans Posterity male, there succeeded many yeares together one after [ D] another, Earles of H••reford and of Essex: of whom I will speake among the Earles of Hereford, seeing that they wrote themselves Earles of Hereford and of Essex. Aeleonor the eldest daughter of the last of these Bohuns, being given in marriage to∣gether with the Title of Essex unto Thomas of Woodstocke Duke of Glocester, bare un∣to him a daughter named Anne, who had for her first Husband Edmund Earle of Stafford, from whom came the Dukes of Buckingham: and for her second Sir William Bourchier, unto whom King Henry the Fifth gave the Earledome of Ew in Norman∣die. This William of her body begat Henry Bourchier, whom King Edward the fourth invested in the Dignity of the Earledome of Essex, in regard hee had marryed his Aunt,* 1.182 and was descended from Thomas of Woodstocke. Hee had to succeede him [ E] another Henry, his Grand-childe, who being cast out of the sadle by a flinging horse, lost his life, leaving behinde him one onely daughter Anne, who being then little respected, King Henry the Eighth presently and all at once made Thomas Cromwell, (whom hee had used as his Instrument to suppresse and abolish the Popes authority) Earle of Essex, Lord Great Chamberlaine of England and Knight of the Order of Saint George: whom before for his reaching politique head, hee had made Baron Cromwell of Ok••ham, The Kings Vicar generall in Spirituall matters, and Lord of the Privie Seale: and all these honours were heaped upon him within the compasse of five yeares.

But in the fifth moneth after hee was Earle, hee lost his head and so had the en∣terlude [ F] of his life a bloudy Catastrophe, as most of these have, who are busie mana∣gers of the greatest affaires. And then the same King thought Sir William Parr, upon whom hee had bestowed in marriage Anne the onely daughter and heire of the foresaid Henry Bour••••ier, worthy also to be entituled Earle of Essex.

[ A] But at the last, after Parr was dead without issue, Walter D'Eureux Vicount Here∣ford, whose great Grandmother was Cecilie Bourgchier Sister to Henrie Bourgchier whom I named right now, through the gracious favour of Queene Elizabeth, re∣ceived this dignitie of the Earledome of Essex, and left it to his Sonne Robert. Who being adorned with singular gifts of nature, and supported besides with the speciall favour of his most gracious Prince, grew so fast unto such honour, that all England conceived good hope hee would have fully equalled, yea and farre surpassed the greatest vertues and praises of all his Progenitours. But (alas) whiles he was car∣ried away with popularity, and made hast to out goe his hopes, hee cast himselfe headlong into destruction: as many more have done, who despising that which [ B] might come by patience with securitie, have made choise to hasten thereto before time with their finall overthrow.

But our most gracious Soveraigne King Iames of his Royall benignitie hath resto∣red his sonne Robert to his bloud, and honours by Parliament authority.

There be counted in this County Parish Churches 415.

Notes

• * 1.1

  See among the Coines the peece stamped with TASC∣NOVANEI.
• * 1.2

  Civitas, that is, Citie, what it signifieth in Caesar.
• * 1.3

  Androgeus.
• * 1.4

  Suetonius.
• * 1.5

  Fasti Capitolini.
• * 1.6

  Breakespeare, Pope Hadrian the fourth. Haresfield.
• * 1.7

  Fitz-Gisle∣bert.
• * 1.8

  Uxbridge.
• * 1.9

  Stanes.
• * 1.10

  Runingmead.
• * 1.11

  Harrow hill.
• * 1.12

  Hanworth.
• * 1.13

  Hampton Court.
• * 1.14

  Thistleworth.
• * 1.15

  Bezantes B••zantines of silver valued at two shillings anciently.
• * 1.16

  Fulham.
• * 1.17

  Chelsey, as one would say, Shelf••ey.
• * 1.18

  London.
• * 1.19

  Britans towne••
• * 1.20

  Dinas.
• * 1.21

  Poet.
• * 1.22

  Praefecturae.
• * 1.23

  C. Carausius. Panegyrice, pronounced be∣fore Constanti∣us Caesar, and untruly entitu∣led, unto Maxi∣mian. Frankes put to the sword.
• * 1.24

  London stone▪ Milliarium.
• * 1.25

  Hellens money oftentimes found under the Walles. The Wall.
• * 1.26

  1474.
• * 1.27

  The Gates.
• * 1.28

  1586.
• * 1.29

  Aldrict.
• * 1.30

  Esterlings.
• * 1.31

  The Towre.
• * 1.32

  Pat. 6.1. m. 21.
• * 1.33

  London called Augusta.
• * 1.34

  A Mint.
• * 1.35

  Lord high Treasurer.
• * 1.36

  Reliques hid∣den for a re∣membrance.
• * 1.37

  610. Saint Pauls Church.
• * 1.38

  Bishop.
• * 1.39

  1560.
• * 1.40

  The Temple of Diana.
• * 1.41

  Sacrifice of Buls.
• * 1.42

  Who were bu∣ried in Pauls Church. About the yeare 680.
• * 1.43

  1016.
• * 1.44

  William Malmesbury.
• * 1.45

  Or Cnute.
• * 1.46

  Innes of the Court.
• * 1.47

  The New Temple.
• * 1.48

  Old Temple where new stands South∣hampton house in Hol∣borne. Templars.
• * 1.49

  *
• * 1.50

  Guil. Tyrius.
• * 1.51

  The Statute as touching the Templars Lands. 17. Edward. 2.
• * 1.52

  See Hospiti∣lars afterwards.
• * 1.53

  The Roules.
• * 1.54

  Montis-Jovis.
• * 1.55

  Westminster.
• * 1.56

  Princes inter∣red in West-Minster Church.
• * 1.57

  Queene Eliza∣beth.
• * 1.58

  Dukes. Earles, and other Nobles en∣tombed in Westminster.
• * 1.59

  Fitz Stephen••.
• * 1.60

  The higher house.
• * 1.61

  The Treason of Robert Catesby.
• * 1.62

  Westminster hall.
• * 1.63

  William Lambert.
• * 1.64

  Prov. c. 16.
• * 1.65

  The Mues.
• * 1.66

  The love of a wife.
• * 1.67

  Rodericus Toletanum lib. 1.
• * 1.68

  Holborne.
• * 1.69

  Saint Johns Hospitalers after called Knights of the Rhodes and now of Malt.
• * 1.70

  Templars.
• * 1.71

  Lords of S. Johns.
• * 1.72

  Charter-house.
• * 1.73

  Barbacan. Gal••ottus Martius.
• * 1.74

  London Bridge.
• * 1.75

  See of South∣warke, in Su∣threy.
• * 1.76

  Saint Saviour.
• * 1.77

  Suffolkehouse.
• * 1.78

  S. Thomas Hospitall.
• * 1.79

  Stewes.
• * 1.80

  Band-dogges or Mastives.
• * 1.81

  Societies or Companies of Citizens. ••••ibus. Wards.
• * 1.82

  Or Portgrave.
• * 1.83

  Praetor or Major.
• * 1.84

  1411.
• * 1.85

  1405.
• * 1.86

  The Burse.
• * 1.87

  1567.
• * 1.88

  Royall Ex∣change.
• * 1.89

  Grehams College.
• * 1.90

  Guicciardin.
• * 1.91

  Orpheus harpe a star.
• * 1.92

  Or beyond Radcliffe. Isle of Dogs.
• * 1.93

  Edmonton▪ Waltham Crosse.
• * 1.94

  Enfield Chase.
• * 1.95

  Waltham Forest.
• * 1.96

  Waltham Abbay.
• * 1.97

  Baron Deny.
• * 1.98

  Copthall.
• * 1.99

  Durolitum.
• * 1.100

  Berking.
• * 1.101

  Roding the river.

  The Booke of Ely.
• * 1.102

  Chipping Angre.
• * 1.103

  Liber Inq. de Ripariu.
• * 1.104

  *
• * 1.105

  Marshes.
• * 1.106

  Holes cut out.
• * 1.107

  In Kent pag. 334. Tilbury.
• * 1.108

  Convennos th•• Isle.
• * 1.109

  Canvey.
• * 1.110

  Beamfleot.
• * 1.111

  S. Shobery.
• * 1.112

  Anno 894.
• * 1.113

  Rochford.
• * 1.114

  Lord Rochfo••
• * 1.115

  *
• * 1.116

  Lawlesse Court.
• * 1.117

  Havering.
• * 1.118

  Rumford. See the the An∣nalles.
• * 1.119

  Brent-wood.
• * 1.120

  Caesaromagus called in the Itinerary table Baromagus.
• * 1.121

  South-Okin∣don. Bruin.
• * 1.122

  Thorndon. Baron Petre.
• * 1.123

  Ashdowne.
• * 1.124

  Arpen. Wine. Radulphus de Dicero. The family of the Essex.
• * 1.125

  Dengy hun∣dred.
• * 1.126

  Essex cheese.
• * 1.127

  The Normans call him Peve∣rell.
• * 1.128

  In the Records Saint Hilary terme E. 2.17. in the keeping of the Treasu∣rer and Cham∣berlaine of the Exchequer.
• * 1.129

  Seales or sig∣nets first taken up among Eng∣lishmen.
• * 1.130

  Barons Rich.
• * 1.131

  The Booke of Saint Martins in London.
• * 1.132

  Canonium.
• * 1.133

  Cogeshall.
• * 1.134

  Tirell.
• * 1.135

  Easterford. Whitham.
• * 1.136

  Camalodunum.
• * 1.137

  Maldon.
• * 1.138

  Camulus a God.
• * 1.139

  Claudius in Britannia.
• * 1.140

  Servius.
• * 1.141

  Deified. The Altar and Temple of Claudius.
• * 1.142

  Dio saith, foure∣score thousand.
• * 1.143

  Idumanu••.
• * 1.144

  Domesday.
• * 1.145

  The bounds of Colonies.
• * 1.146

  Cogeshall.
• * 1.147

  Lib. 9. cap. 54.
• * 1.148

  Hawkwood.
• * 1.149

  4. Verses.
• * 1.150

  *
• * 1.151

  14. H. 4.
• * 1.152

  Colonia.
• * 1.153

  Colchester.
• * 1.154

  1105.
• * 1.155

  Helen Great Constantines mother.
• * 1.156

  S. Osith. Chic.
• * 1.157

  Barons Darcy of Chich.
• * 1.158

  Nesse.
• * 1.159

  Giants. Giants bones.
• * 1.160

  Harewich.
• * 1.161

  *
• * 1.162

  Barklow.
• * 1.163

  *
• * 1.164

  Ancient tombes.
• * 1.165

  Danes-bloud.
• * 1.166

  Walden.
• * 1.167

  Commonly called Mande∣villes.
• * 1.168

  Baron Audley of Walden.
• * 1.169

  1597.
• * 1.170

  Burrow-banke.
• * 1.171

  Saffron.
• * 1.172

  Barons of Clavering.
• * 1.173

  See in Nor∣thumberland.
• * 1.174

  Barons Montfichet. The Montfichet Coat of Armes▪ Playz.
• * 1.175

  Haslingbury.
• * 1.176

  Barington.
• * 1.177

  Hatefield Brad-oke.
• * 1.178

  Earles of Essex
• * 1.179

  Register of Walden.
• * 1.180

  Register of Walden Mo∣nastery.
• * 1.181

  See the Earles of Hereford.
• * 1.182

  Eliz. sister to Rich. Duke of Yorke.