The firste [laste] volume of the chronicles of England, Scotlande, and Irelande conteyning the description and chronicles of England, from the first inhabiting vnto the conquest : the description and chronicles of Scotland, from the first original of the Scottes nation till the yeare of our Lorde 1571 : the description and chronicles of Yrelande, likewise from the first originall of that nation untill the yeare 1571 / faithfully gathered and set forth by Raphaell Holinshed.

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The firste [laste] volume of the chronicles of England, Scotlande, and Irelande conteyning the description and chronicles of England, from the first inhabiting vnto the conquest : the description and chronicles of Scotland, from the first original of the Scottes nation till the yeare of our Lorde 1571 : the description and chronicles of Yrelande, likewise from the first originall of that nation untill the yeare 1571 / faithfully gathered and set forth by Raphaell Holinshed.
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Holinshed, Raphael, d. 1580?
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At London :: Imprinted for Iohn Hunne,
1577.
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Great Britain -- History -- Early works to 1800.
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"The firste [laste] volume of the chronicles of England, Scotlande, and Irelande conteyning the description and chronicles of England, from the first inhabiting vnto the conquest : the description and chronicles of Scotland, from the first original of the Scottes nation till the yeare of our Lorde 1571 : the description and chronicles of Yrelande, likewise from the first originall of that nation untill the yeare 1571 / faithfully gathered and set forth by Raphaell Holinshed." In the digital collection Early English Books Online. https://name.umdl.umich.edu/A03448.0001.001. University of Michigan Library Digital Collections. Accessed May 1, 2024.

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Of the rysing and falles of such ryuers and streames, as descende into the sea with∣out alteration of their names, and first of those that lye betweene the Thames and the Sa∣uerne. Cap. 9.

HAuing as you haue séene attempted to set downe a full discourse of all the Is∣landes, that are scituate vppon the coast of Britayne, and finding the successe not corres∣pondent to myne intent, it hath caused mée somewhat to restrayne my purpose in thys description of our riuers. For whereas I en∣tended at the first to haue written at large, of the number, scituation, names, quantities, Townes, Villages, Castles, Mountaynes, Fresh waters, Plashes, or Lakes, Salt wa∣ters, and other commodities of the aforesayd Isles, myne expectation of information from all partes of Englande, was so deceyued in the ende, that I was fayne at last, onelye to leane to that which I knewe my selfe eyther by reading or such other helpe as I had al∣ready purchased and gotten of the same. And euen so it happeneth also in this my tracta∣tiō of waters, of whose heads, courses, lēgth, bredth, depth of Chanell (for burden) ebb•…•…, flow••••ges, and falles, I had thought to haue made a perfect descriptiō. But now for want of instruction, which hath béene largelye pro∣mised, and sl•…•…ckly perfourmed, and other so∣dayne and •…•…rious denyall of helpe volun∣tarily off•…•…ed, wythout occasion gyuen 〈◊〉〈◊〉 part, I 〈◊〉〈◊〉 néedes content my self with such obseruations as I haue eyther obtayned by myne 〈◊〉〈◊〉 experience, or gathered frō tyme to tyme out of other 〈◊〉〈◊〉 writings: wherby the full discourse of the whole is vtterly cut of, and in stéede of the same a mangled re∣hearsall of the residue, set downe and left in memori•…•…. Wherefore I beséech your Honour to pardon this imperfect 〈◊〉〈◊〉 and rudenesse of my labour, which notwithstanding is not al∣togither in vayne, sith my errors may pr•…•… a spurre 〈◊〉〈◊〉 the better 〈◊〉〈◊〉, eyther too cor∣rect, or inlarge where 〈…〉〈…〉, or at the least wi•…•…e to take 〈…〉〈…〉 a more absolute péece of wor•…•…e as better direction shall enco∣rage them thereto. The entraunce and be∣ginning of euery thing is the hardest, and hée that beginneth well hath atchieued halfe hys purpose. The Ise my Lorde is broken, and from henceforth it wil be more easie for such as shall come after to wade through with the reast, sith facile est inuētis a•…•…ere, and to con∣tinue and •…•…nishe, is not so great a 〈◊〉〈◊〉 in 〈…〉〈…〉 and laye the founda∣tion or 〈◊〉〈◊〉 of any noble péece of work∣manshippe though it be but rudely handled. But to my purpose as I began at ye Thames in any description of Islandes, so will I now do the •…•…ide with that of riuers: making m••••e entrie at the sayde ryuer it selfe, which hath his heade or beginning out of the side of an hyll, standing in the playnes of Cotteswolde, about one mile from Tetbury néere vnto the Fosse (an hygh waye so called of olde) where it was sometyme named Isis or the Ouse, al∣thoughe dyuers doe ignorauntlye call it the Thames, euen there, rather of a foolishe cu∣stome then of anye skill, bycause they eyther neglect or vtterly are ignoraunt, how it was named at the first. From hence it runneth di∣rectly toward the east, where it méeteth with the Cyrne or Churne, (a brooke called in latin Corinium) whereof Cyrnecester towne by which it commeth doth take the name. From hence it hasteth to Créekelade (alias Crekan∣ford) Lechlade, Radcotebridge, Newbridge, & Eusham (receiuing by the way an infinit sort of small streames, brookes, beckes, waters, & rundelles) & here on this side of the towne de∣uiding it selfe into two courses, of which the one goeth strayght to Botley, and Hinksey, the other by God••••ow, a village not farre of. This latter spreadeth it selfe also for a whyle

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into sundry smaller braunches, which runne not farre eare they be reunited, and then be∣clipping sundry pleasaunt meadowes, it pas∣seth at length by Oxeforde, where it méeteth with the Charwell, and a little from whence the originall branches doe ioyne agayne and go togither by Abbandune (or Abington, as we call it,) although no part of it at the first came so néere the Towne as it doth n•…•…w, till a braunch thereof was led thyther from the mayne streame, through the industrie of the monkes as (beside the testimonie of olde re∣cordes thereof yet extant to be séene) by the decay of Dorchester it self, somtime the com∣mō thorowfare from Wales, and the West countrey to London, which insurd vpon this fac•…•…, is easie to bée séene. From hence it go∣eth to Dorchester and so to Thame, where ioyning with a riuer of the same denomina∣tion, it loseth the name of Isis or Ouse, wher∣of Duseney at Oxeforde is producted) and frō thēceforth is called Thamesis. From Thame it goeth to Walling forde and so to Reading, which some of the number of Bridges there doe call Pontium, albeit that the Englishe name doe procéede rather from Rhe, or Rée the Saxon word for a water course or riuer which may be séene in Ouerée or Sutherey, for ouer the Rée or South of the Rhe as the skilfull can coniecture. But howsoeuer that matter standeth after it hath passed by Rea∣ding, and there receyued the Kenet, which commeth from the hilles that lye West of Marleborough, and then the Thetis, com∣monly called the Tyde that commeth from the Thetisforde; it hyeth to Sudlington, or Maydenheade, and so to Wyndleshore (or Windsore) Eaton & then to Chertsey, where Erkenwalde Bishoppe of London, somtime buylded a religious House, as I doe reade. From Chertseye it hasteth dyrectlye vnto Stanes, and receyuing an other streame by the waye, called the Cole, (whereupon Col∣brooke standeth) it goeth by Kingstone Shene Sion, and Brentforde, where it méeteth the Brane or the Brene, another Brooke discen∣ding from Edgeworth whose name signifieth a Frogge, in the Brittish speache. Vppon thys also Sir Iohn Thinne, had sometyme a stately house wyth marueylous prouision to inclose and retayne such fishe as shoulde come about the same. From Brentfoorde it passeth by Mortlach, Putney, Fulham, Bat∣tersey, Chelsey, Lambeth, and so to London. Finallye going from thence vnto the sea, it taketh the Lée wyth it by the waye vpon the Coast of Essex, and the Darnt vpō Kentside, which riseth néere to Tanrige, and commeth by Shoreham, vnto Derntforde, whereunto the Cray falleth: And lest of all the mydway a notable ryuer, (in mine opinion) which wa∣tereth all the South, and Southwest part of Kent, and whose description is not to be omit∣ted in his place.

Thus we sée the whole tract and course of ye Thames by whose head and fall, it is euident that the length therof is at the least, one hun∣dreth and eighty miles, if it be measured by ye iourneyes of the land. And as it is in course, the longest of the thrée famous riuers of thys Isle, so it is nothing inferiour vnto them, in abundance of all kinde of fishe, whereof it is harde to say, which of them haue eyther most plentie, or greatest varietie, if the circumstā∣ces be duely weighed. What should I speake of the fat and swéete Samons, dayly taken in this streame, & that in such plentye, as no ry∣uer in Europa, is able to excéede it, but what store also of Barbelles, Troutes, Chenins, Pearches, Smelts, Breames, Roches, Da∣ces, Gudgins, Floūders, Shrimps, Eles &c. are commōly to be had therein, I referre me to them, that knowe the same by experience. And albeit it séemeth from time to time, to be as it were defrauded in sundrye wise, of these hir large commodities, by the insociable aua∣rice of ye fishermen yet this famous ryuer cō∣playneth of no w•…•…nte, but the more it looseth at one tyme, the more it yéeldeth at another. Onely in Carpes it séemeth to bée scant, sith it is not long finde that kynde of fishe was brought ouer into Englande, and but of late to speake of, into this streame by the violent rage of sundry Landfloudes, that brake open the heades and dammes of dyuers Gentle∣mens pondes, by which meanes it became pertaker also of this said commoditie, where∣of •…•…arst it had no portion that I coulde euer heare of.

Furthermore the sayde riuer floweth and •…•…lleth all his channels twyse in the daye and night, that is in euery 12. houres once, & thys ebbing and flowing, holdeth on for the space of seauentye miles, within the mayne lande: the streame or tyde, being alwayes hyghest at Londō, when the Moone doth exactly touch the northeast and south or west pointes, of the heauens, of which one is visible, the other vn∣der the earth, and not subiect to our sight.

These tydes also differ in their tymes eche one comming latter then other, by so manye mynutes as passe ere the reuolucion and na∣turall course of the heauens doe reduce, and bring about the sayde Plannet, vnto those hir former places: whereby the common dif∣ference betwéene one tyde and another, is founde to consist of twentye foure mynutes, which wāteth but twelue of an whole houre;

Page 20

in 24 as experience doth confirme.

This order of flowing likewise is parpetu∣all, except rough winds doe happen to checke the streame in hir comming, or else some o∣ther occasion, put by the ordinary course of the Northern seas, which fyll the sayde ryuer by their naturall returne and flowing. And that both these doe happen eft among, I re∣ferre me to such as haue not sildome obserued it. For sometime the huge wind kepeth back a great part of the floudde, whereby the tyde is differred (though neuer altogyther put by) and sometyme there happen thrée or foure tydes in one naturall daye, whereof the vn∣skilful do descant many things. I would here make mencion of sundry bridges placed ouer this noble streame, of which that of London is most chiefly to be cōmended, for it is man∣ner a continuall Stréete, well replenished with large and statelye houses on both sides, & scituate vpon twentie Arches, whereof eche one is made of excellent frée squared stone, e∣uery of theym being thréescore fote in height, and full twentie in distaunce one from ano∣ther.

In lyke maner I coulde intreat of the infi∣nite number of swannes dayly to be séene vp∣pon thys riuer, the two thousand. Whirries and small bots, whereby thrée thousand poore watermen are maintained, through the cari∣age and recariage, of such persons as passe, or repasse, from tyme to tyme vppon the same: beside those huge tyde botes, tiltbotes & barges, which eyther carry passengers, or bryng necessary prouision, from all quarters of Oxefordshyre, Barkeshyre, Bucking∣hamshyre, Bedfordeshyre, Herfordeshyre, Mydellsex, Essex, Surry and Kent, vnto the Citie of London. But forsomuch as these thynges are to be repeated againe in the particuler discription of London, annexed to hys Carde. I sucesse at this tyme to speake any more of them as also of the ryuer it self, wherefore let thys suffyse.

Next vnto the Thames we haue the mid∣way water, which falleth into the mayne sea at Shepey. It ariseth Warde forrest in Sus∣sex, and when it is come so farre as Whethe∣lin towne, it méeteth a little by north thereof, with the Done, which descendeth from wa∣terdon forrest, and from whence they go on togyther, as one by Ashehirst, where hauing receyued also the seconde brooke, it hasteth to Pēsherst, & there carrieth with all the Eden, that commeth from Lingfielde parke. After thys it goeth into the South east parte of Kent, and taketh with it the Frith or Firth, on the north west syde, and an other lyttle streame that commeth from the hylles, be∣twéene Peuenbury and Horsemon, on the south est. From thence also & not farre from Yalling it receiueth the Theise (a pretye streame that riseth about Theise Hirst) and afterwarde the Gran or crane, which hauing hys heade not farre from Cranbrooke, and méeting with sundry other reuellettes by the way, whereof one braunche of Theise is the last, (for it parteth at the Twist, and inclu∣deth a prety Islande) doth ioyne with the said Medway, a litle aboue Yalding, & then with the Lowse. Finally at Maidstone, it méeteth wyth another brooke, whose name I knowe not, and then passeth by Allington, Dutton, Newhide, Halling, Cuckestane, Rofchester, Chattham, Gillingham, Vpchurch, Kings∣ferry, and falleth into the maine sea, betwene Shepey and the Grane.

Some saye that it is called mydway water because it falleth into the sea mydway, be∣twéene the north foreland and London: yet some not hauing anye such consideration, doe name it the Medow streame, whereof I thought good also to leaue this short admoni∣tion.

After the Midway whose discription I haue partely gathered out of the Leland, and part∣ly out of Maister Lamberts perambulatō of Kēt, we haue ye Stoure that riseth at Kinges∣woode which is fourtéene or fiftéene myles, frō Canterbury. This riuer passeth by Ashe∣forde, Wie, Nackington, Canterbury, For∣dish, Standish, and Sturemouth, where it receyueth another ryuer, which hath 3. bran∣ches, wherof one called Bredge goeth by Bi∣ships bourne, the other named Wyham, be∣ginneth about Adham, and the thirde (name∣lesse) rūneth by Staple to Wingham. After∣warde our Stoure or Sture parteth it selfe in twaine, and in such wyse that one arme thereof goeth towarde the North, and is cal∣led (when it commeth at the sea) the North∣mouth of Stoure, the other runneth South∣east warde vp to Rycheborow & so to Sand∣wiche, from whence it goeth Northeast a∣gayne & falleth into the sea. The issue of this latter tract is called the hauen of Sandwiche and peraduenture the streame that commeth downe thither, after the diuisiō of the Stoure, may be the same, which Beda calleth Want∣some, but as I cānot vndo this knot at will, so this is certaine, that the Stoure on the one side, and peraduenture, the Wantsome on the other parteth & cutteth the Tenet from the maine lande of Kent, wherby it is left for an Island and so replenished with townes, as I haue notified before, in ye chapter that spea∣keth of our Islandes.

There are other little Brookes, which fall

Page [unnumbered]

into the Stoure of which Lelande speaketh, as Fishpoole becke, that aryseth in Stone∣hirstwood and méeteth with it foure myles from Canterbury: an other beginneth at Chiselet, & goeth into the Stoure gut, which sometime inclosed Thanet, as Leylande saieth, the thirde issueth out of the grounde at Northburne (where Eadbert of Kent some time past held his pallace &) runneth to Sād∣wich hauen, as the sayde Au•…•…thor reporteth, & the fourth called Bridge water that ryseth by S. Marie Burne church, & méeteth with Canterbury water at Stourmouth: also Wyham that ryseth aboue Wyham, and falleth into Bredge water at▪ Dudmyll, or Wenderton: but sith they are eyther obscure or namelesse & there to not reseruing there names till they come at the sea, I passe them ouer as not to be touched here. From hence vnto Douer I finde no streame by reason of the Clyffes, that enuironne the sayde coast: howbeit vpon the South side of Douer there is a pretie fresh ryuer, whose head aryse•…•…h at Erwell, not passing foure myles from the sea, and of some is called Dour, which in the Brittishe tongue is a common name for all waters. And thereof also it is lykely that the towne and Castell of Douer dyd sometyme take the name. From hence we go towarde the Camber, (omitting paraduenture here and there sundrye small Créekes, & Beckes, by the way) whereabouts the Rother, a noble riuer falleth into ye sea. This Rother hath his head in Sussex not far from Argas hill néere to Waterden forrest, and from thence direc∣teth his course vnto Rotherfield. After this it goeth to Ethlingham or Hitchingham, and so forth by Newendon vnto Matthamferry, where it deuided it selfe in such wise, that one braunche thereof goeth to Appledour (where it méeteth wt the Bily that ryseth about Bil∣sington) the other by Iden, so that it inclu∣deth a fine percell of grounde called Oxney, which in times past was reputed as a percell of Sussex, but now vpon some occasion or o∣ther, it is annexed vnto Kent. From hence also growing into some greatnesse, it run∣neth to Rie, where it méeteth finally with the Becke, which commeth from Beckley, so that the plot wherein Rye standeth, is in ma∣ner a Bylande or Peninsula, as experience doth confirme. Lelande and most men are of the opinion that this ryuer shoulde be called the Limene, howbeit in our time it is knowen by none other name, then the Rother or Ap∣pledour water, whereof let this suffice.

Being thus crossed ouer to the West side of Rye hauen, and in viewing the issues that fal into the same, I méete first of all with a wa∣ter that groweth of two brookes, which come downe by one Chanell into the east side of the mouth of the sayde Port. The first therefore that falleth into it, descendeth from Beckley or thereabouts, as I take it, the next runneth along by Pesemarsh, and soone after ioyning withall, they holde on as one, till they fall into the same at the Westerly side of Rye. The third streame commeth from the North, and as it mounteth vp not farre from Munfield, so it runneth betwéene Sescamb and Wac∣lington neere vnto Bread, taking another rill with all that ryseth as I heare not very farre from Westfield. There is likewyse a fourth that groweth of two heades, betwéene I•…•…lingham and Pet, & going by Winchelsey it meeteth withall about Rye hauen, so that Winchelsey standeth enuironned on three partes with water, and the streames of these two that I haue last rehearsed.

The water that falleth into the Ocean, a myle by Southwest of Hastinges or thera∣bouts, is called Aestus or Asten, and rising not farre from Penhirst, it méeteth with the sea, as I heare by East of Hollington. Buluer∣hithe is but a créeke as I remember serued with no backewater, and so I heare of Cod∣ding or olde hauen, wherfore I meane not to touche them.

Into Peuensey hauen diuers waters doe resort, & of these that which entereth into the same on the East side ryseth out from two heades, whereof the most easterly is called Ashe, the next vnto it the Burne, and vniting themselues not farre from Asheburne, they continue their course vnder the name and title of Asheburne water as I reade. The se∣conde that commeth thereinto ryseth also of two heades, wherof the one is so many miles from Boreham, the other not farre from the Parke east of Hellingstowne, and both of thē cōcurring Southwest of Hirstmowsen, they direct their course toward Peuēsey (beneath which they méete wyth an other rysing at Foyngton) and thence go in one chanell for a myle or more, tyll they fall togither into the Peuensey hauen.

The Cuckmer issueth out at seuerall pla∣ces, and hereof the more easterly braunch cō∣meth from Warbleton ward, the other from Bishoppes wood, and méeting beneath Hal∣ling they runne in one bottome by Micham Arlington, Wellington, olde Frithstan and so into the sea.

Vnto the water that cōmeth out at New∣hauen sundry Brookes & Riuerettes doe re∣sorte, but the chiefe head ryseth towarde the West somewhat betwéene Etchinforde and Shepley as I here. The first water therfore

Page 21

that falleth into the same on the east side, is∣sueth out of the grounde about Vertwood, & running from thence by Langhtō and Ripe, on the West side, it falleth into the aforesayd ryuer beneath Forle and Glyme, or thrée myles lower then Lewys, if the other buttal lyke you not. The next hervnto hath his head in Argas hill, the thirde descendeth frō Ashe∣don forrest, and ioyning with the last mentio∣ned, they crosse the maine ryuer a little be∣neath Isefield. The fourth water commeth from Ashedon forrest by Horsted Caines (or Ousestate Caines) and falleth into the same, lykewyse East of Linfield. Certes I am de∣ceyued if this ryuer be not called Isis, after it is past Isefield. The fift ryseth about Stor∣uelgate, and méeteth also wyth the maine streame aboue Linfield, & these are knowen to lye vpon the right hande as we rowed vp the ryuer. On the other side are onely two, whereof the first hath his originall néere vn∣to Wenefield, and holding on his course to∣warde the East, it méeteth with his maister betwéene Newicke and Isefield, or Ifield as some reade it. The last of all commeth from Plimodune or Plumpton, and hauing met in like sort with the maine riuer about Bar∣cham, it runneth forth with it, and the rest in one chanell by Barcham, Hamsey, Malling, Lewys, Piddingburne, and so forth into the maine sea.

The next ryuer that we came vnto West of Brighthemston is the Sore, which not∣withstanding I finde to be called Brember water, in the auncient Mappe of Marton Colledge in Oxforde: but in such sorte (as I take it) as the Rother is called Appledour streame, bycause of the sayd towne that stan∣deth therevpon. But to procéede, it is a plea∣saunt water, and thereto if you consider the scituation of his armes, and braunches from the higher groundes, very much resembling a fower stringed whip. Wherabout the head of this riuer is, or which of these braunches may safely be called Sora, from the rising, in good sooth I can not say, for after we had pas∣sed nyne or tenne myles thereon vp into the lande, sodainly the crosse waters stopped vs, so that we were inforced to turne either east or west, for directly forth ryght we had no way to go. The first arme on the ryght hand as we went, ryseth out of a Parke by South of Alborne, and going on for a certayne space toward the Northwest, it turneth southward betweene Shermonbury and Twinham, and soone after méeteth with ye Bymar, not much South from Shermonbury, whence they run togither almost two myles, till they fall into the Sore. That on the Westside descendeth from about Billingeshir•…•…t, & going towarde the east, it crosseth wt the 〈◊〉〈◊〉 (which ryseth a little by West of Thacam) east from Pul∣borow, and so they run as one into the Sore, that after this cōfluence hasteth it self south∣warde by Brember, Burleis, the Combes, and ere long into the Ocean.

The Aron (of which beside Arundel towne the Castell and the valey, wherin it runneth is called Vallis Aruntina, or Arundale in En∣glish) is a goodly water and thereto increa∣sed with no small number of excellent & plea∣saunt brookes. It springeth vp of two heades, whereof one descendeth from the North not farre from Gretham, & going by Lis, mée∣teth with the next streame, as I gesse about Doursford house. The second riseth by West from the hilles that lye towarde the rysing of the sunne from Eastmaine and runneth by Peterfield. The thirde commeth from Beryton warde and ioyneth with the second betwéene Peterfield and Doursforde, after which cōfluence they go togither in one cha∣nell still toward the East, (taking a rill with them that commeth betwéene Fernehirst and S. Lukes Chappell, southwest of Linche∣mere & meting with it East of Loddesworth as I doe reade, and lykewyse sundrye o∣ther in one Chanell beneath Sopham) to Waltham, Bury, Houghton, Stoke, Arun∣dell, Tortington forde, Climping (all on the West side,) and so into the sea. Hauing thus described the west side of Arun, let vs doe the lyke with the other in such sorte as we best may. The first riuer that we come vnto ther∣fore on the East side, and also the seconde rise at sundry places in S. Leonards forrest, and ioyning a lyttle aboue Horsham, they mete with the thirde, which commeth from Ifield Parke, not verye farre from Slinfeld. The fourth hath two heads, whereof one ryseth in Witley Parke, the other by west, néere vnto Heselméere chappell, and méeting by west of Doursfeld, they vnyte themselues with the chanell, growing by the confluence that I spake of beneath Slinfeld, a little aboue Bil∣lingeshirst. The last water commeth from the hilles aboue Lincheméere, and runneth west and South, and passing betwene Bil∣lingshirst and Stopham it commeth vnto the channell last mencioned, & so into the Arun, beneath Stopham, without anye farder in∣crease, at the least that I doe here of.

Burne hath his issue in a Parke, néere Al∣dingburne (or rather a litle aboue ye same to∣ward the North, as I haue since béene infor∣med,) and running by the bottomes toward the south, it falleth into the sea betwéene north Berflete and Flesham.

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Eryn riseth of sundry heddes, by east of Erynley and directing his course toward the sunne rysing, it pennisulateth Selesey, and falleth into the Ocean betwéene Selesey towne on the southwest & Pagham at north west.

Del springeth about Benderton, & thence running betwéene midle Lauaunt and East Lauaunt, it goeth by west of West Hamp∣net, by east of Chichester, or West of Rum∣balde soowne, and afterwarde by Fishburne, where it méeteth with a ril comming North west from Funtingdon (a little beneath the towne) and then running thus in one streame towarde the sea, it méeteth with another ril∣let comming by Northe of Bosham and so into Auant gulf by East of Thorney Island.

The Racon riseth by east of Racton or Ra∣codunum and cōming by Chidham, it falleth into the sea, Northest of Thorney afore∣sayde.

The Emill commeth first betwéene Racton and Stansted then downe to Emilsworth or Emmesworth, and so vnto the Ocean, sepa∣rating Sussex from Hāpshyre almost from the very head.

Hauing in this maner passed along the coa∣stes of Sussex. The next water that I remē∣ber, ryseth by east of the forrest of Estbyry, from whence it goeth by Southwijc, West Burhunt, Farham, and so into the gulfe al∣most full South.

Then come we to Bedenham Créeke (so called of a village standing thereby,) the mouth whereof lyeth almost directly agaynst Porchester Castell, which is scituate about 3. miles by water from Portesmouth towne, as Lelande doth report. Then go we with∣in halfe a myle farder to Forten Créeke, which eyther gyueth or taketh name of a vil∣lage harde by. After this we come to Oster∣poole Lake, a great Créeke, which goeth vp by west into the land, and lyeth not far from a rounde tower of stone, from whence also there goeth a chaine, to another Tower on the east side directly ouer against it, whereby the entraunce of great vessels into that part maye be at pleasure restrayned.

From hence wée goe further to Tiche∣feld water, that riseth about Estmaine park, ten or twelue myles by northeast or there a∣bout from Tichfeld. From Estmaine it go∣eth (parting the forrestes of Waltham, and Eastbery by the waye) to Wicham or Wi∣comb, a prety market towne and large tho∣rowfare, where also the water seperateth it selfe into two armelettes, and goyng vnder two bridges of woode, commeth ere long a∣gayne vnto one Chanell. From hence it go∣eth thrée or foure myles farder, to a bridge of tymber by Maister Writhoseleyes house, (leauing Tichfelde towne on the right side) & a little beneath runneth vnder Ware bridg whether the sea floweth as hir natural course inforceth. Finally within a mile of this bridge it goeth into the water of Hampton hauen, wherunto diuers streames resort as you shal heare hereafter.

After this we come to Hamble hauen, or Hamelrish créeke, whose fall is betwéene S. Andrewes castell, and Hoke. It riseth about Shidford in waltham forrest, and when it is past Croke bridge, it méeteth with another brooke, which riseth not farre frō Bishoppes Waltham, out of sundry springes in the high way, to Winchester, from whence it passeth as I sayde by Bishoppes Waltham, then to Budeley or Botley, and so ioyning with the Hamble, they runne togither by Prowlings∣worth, Vpton, Brusill, Hamble towne, and so into the sea.

Now come we to the hauē of south Hamp∣ton, which I will briefely describe so neare as I can possibly. The bredth or entry of the mouth herof, as I take it, is by estimatiō two miles from shore to shore. At the west poynt therof also is a strong castell lately builded which is rightly named Caldshore, but now Cawshot, I wote not by what occasion. On ye east side thereof also, is a place called Hoke (afore mētioned) or Hamell hoke, wherin are not aboue thrée or foure fishers houses, not worthy to be remembred. This hauen shoo∣teth vp on the west side by the space of seauen miles, vntill it come to Hamptō towne, stan∣ding on the other side, where it is by estima∣tion a mile from lande to lande. Thence it goeth vp further about thrée myles to Red∣bridge still ebbing and flowing thither, and one myle farther, so farre as my memorye doeth serue mée. Nowe it resteth that I de∣scribe the Alresforde streame, which I will procéede withall in this order following.

The Alresforde beginneth of diuers faire springs, about a mile or more fro Alresford, or Alforde as it is now called, & soone after re∣sorting to one bottome, they become a brode lake, which for the most part is called Alford pond. Afterwarde returning againe to a nar∣rowe chanell, it goeth thorow a stone bridge at the ende of Alforde towne, (leauing the towne it selfe on the left hand) toward Hicth∣ingstocke thrée myles of, but ere it commeth there, it receiueth two rylles in one bottome, wherof one commeth frō the Forrest in ma∣ner at hande, and by northwest of olde Alres∣forde, the other from Browne Candiuer, that goeth by Northenton, Swarewetton, Aber∣stone.

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〈…〉〈…〉.

On the other side of Southampton, there res••••teth into this hauen also, both the T•…•…sts and the Stockebridge water in one bottome, whereof I finde thys large description insu∣ing.

The very head of the Stocke water, is sup∣posed to bée somewhere about Bas•…•…ngstoke, or Church Hackley, and going from the•…•… betwene Ouerton & Steuenton, it commeth at last by Lauerstocke and Whitchurch, and soone after receyuing a brooke, by Northwest called the Bourne (discending from S. Mary Bourne, southeast from Horseburne) it pro∣céedeth by Long paroch, and the Woodde till it méete with the Cranburne, on the east side (a prety riueret rysing about Michelney and going by Fullington, Barton, and to Cram∣burne) thence to Horwell in one bottome, be∣neth which it méeteth with the Andeuer wa∣ter, that is increased ere it come there by an∣other brooke, whose name I doe not knowe. This Andeuer streame, ryseth in Culhāshire forrest, not far by north from Andeuer towne & going to vpper Clatford, are it touch there it receyueth the Rill of which I spake before, which rysing also néere vnto An•…•…ort, goeth to Monketon, to Abbatesham, the Audeuer, and both as I said vnto the Test beneth Horwel, whereof I spake euen nowe. These streames being thus brought into one botom it runeth toward the South, vnder stockbridge, & soone after diuiding it selfe in twayne, one braunch thereof goeth by Houghton, & a litle beneath méeteth wyth a Ryll, that commeth from by West of S. Annes hyll, and goeth by East of vpper Wallop, West of nether Wallop, by Bucholt Forrest, Broughton, and called as 〈…〉〈…〉.

The next riuer that runneth into this 〈◊〉〈◊〉 springeth in the new Forrest, and commeth there into about Eling, not passing one mile, by west of the fall of Test. From hence cast∣ing about againe into the maine sea, and lea∣uing Calde shore Castle on the ryght hande, wée dyrected our course towarde the South∣west, vnto B•…•…aulieu hauen wherinto the Mi∣n•…•…y descepdeth.

The Miney ryseth not farre from Miney, stéede•…•… Village in the north part of the newe Forrest, and going by Beaulie•…•…, it falleth in∣to the sea, southwest, as I take it of Erbu•…•…y, a Village standing vpon the shore.

Beyng past the Miney, wee crossed the Li∣men, whose heade is in the very heart of the newe Forrest, and running South west of Lindhyrst and the Parke, it goeth 〈◊〉〈◊〉 East of Brokenhirst West of Bulder, and finally into the Sea South and by East of Leming∣ton.

The next fall that we passed by is name∣lesse, except it be called Bure, & as it descen∣deth from the newe Forrest, so the next vnto it •…•…ight Mile, as I haue hearde in Englishe. Certes the head thereof, is also in the south∣west part of the said Forrest, and the fall not far from Milforde bridge, beyonde the which I find a narrow going or stricktland leading from the poynte to Hirst Castle, which stan∣deth into the Sea, as if it hung by a thred frō the mayne of the Islande, ready to be washed away, by the continuall and dayly beating of the waues.

The next riuer that we came vnto of any name is the Auon, which ryseth by northeast, and not far from Woolfe hall, in Wil•…•…shire. The first notable bridge that it rūneth vnto▪

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is at Vphauen, thence foure myles farder, it goeth to little Ambresbury, and there is ano∣ther bridge, from thēce to Woodfo•…•…d village, standing at the right hand •…•…an•…•…, and Newtō v•…•…age on the left. The Bishops of Saru•••• had a proper Manour place at Woodforde, which Bishoppe •…•…harton pulled downe altogither, bicause it was somewhat in sinne. T•…•… it goeth to Fisheeto•…•…ridge, to Cranebridge 〈◊〉〈◊〉 Salisbury, new Salisbury, & finally to Ha•…•…∣ha•…•…, which is a ••••ately bridge of stone, of s•…•…xe arches at the least. There is at the west ende of the sayde bridge, a little Island, that lyeth betwixt this and another bridge, of feare pre∣ty arches, and vnder this latter runeth a good round streame, which as I take it, is a brāch of Auon, that breaketh out a little aboue, and soone after it reuniteth it selfe agayne: or else that Wilton water hath there his entry into the Auon, which I cannot yet determine. Frō Harneham bridge it goeth to Dounton, that is about foure miles, and so much in like sort from thence to Fording bridge, to Kingwood bridge fiue miles, to Christes church Twin∣ham fiue myles, and strayght into the sea.

The next fall that we come vnto is Poole, from whose mouth vpon the shore, by South west in a bay of thrée miles of, is a poore fish∣er towne, called Sandwiche, where we sawe a péere and a little fresh brooke. The very vt∣ter part of saint Adelmes poynt, is fiue miles from Sandwich. In another bay lyeth west Lylleworth, where as I heare is some prost∣table herborow for ships. The towne of Poole is from W••••burne about foure miles, and it standeth almost as an Isle in the hauen. The hauen it selfe also if a man shoulde measure it by the circuite, wa••••eth little of twenty mile, as I did guesse by the view.

Waiemouth, or as some doe call it Wyle∣mouth, is coūted twenty meles from Poole, & ye head of this riuer riseth not full foure miles aboue the hauen, by northwest at Vp••••l in the side of a great •…•…ill. There is a little barre of sande at the hauen mouth, & a great arme of ye sea runneth vp by the right hand, and scant a mile aboue the hauen mouth on the shore, is a right goodly and warlike castle made, which hath one open barbicane. This arme rūneth vp also farder by a myle as in a baye, to a point of land wher a passage is into Portlād, by a little course of pibble sande. It goeth vp also from the sayd passage vnto Abbatesbiry about seuen miles of, where a little sreshe rō∣dell resorteth to the sea. And somwhat aboue this, is the head or point of the Chesill lying northwest, which stretcheth vp from thēce a∣bout seuē miles, as a maine narrow bank, by a right line vnto the southest, and there abut∣•…•… 〈…〉〈…〉 But to procéede wyth our pu•…•…pose. Into the mouth of this riuer doe ships often 〈◊〉〈◊〉 for succour, & being past the same, we meete with ye fal of a water néere to •…•…. Catherin•…•… chapple as we sailed by ye Shingle, which came down frō Litton by Chilcomb, and thence we went to Bruteport water that ariseth halfe a mile or more aboue Bemister, from whence it go∣eth to Parnham, N•…•…therbury, Welplash, & so to Bruteport, & afterwarde into ye sea, taking in sundry waters wt al by the way, wherof in my next treatise God willing I meane as of diuers other to make a particuler rehearsall. Leuing the Brudeport, we passed by Stant•…•… Gabriell, & beholding Charemouth Bea•…•…on a far of, we 〈◊〉〈◊〉 our course toward ye same, but ere we came there, we behelde the fall of Chare, which is a pretye water. It ryseth a∣bout thrée miles aboue Charemouth by north in a parke of the kinges called Marshewood. Next vnto this is the Buddle, which cōmeth about thrée miles by north of Lyme from the hilles, fléeting vpon rocky soyle, and so falleth into the sea.

Beyond this is the Axe whose issue at thys present is harde vnder the rootes of Winter chifes, and the poyntes thereof beyng almost a myle in sunder, the most westerlye of them called Berewood, lyeth within halfe a mile of Seton, but the other toward the east, is called White•…•…liffe, wherof I haue spoken already. This riuer riseth a mile northest frō Bemi∣ster a market Towne, in Dorset shyre, at a place called Axe knoll, (longing to Sir Giles Strangwaies) in a moore hanging on the side of an hill. And from thence it runneth to the ruines of an old Abbay called Fordes, about foure or fiue miles from thence, (where it sée∣meth to bée a particion betwéene Sommer∣setshyre and Deuon) then vnto Axe Minster in Deuonshyre, and so thorowe the Towne it selfe, wherein a great slaughter was made

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of Danes in Athelstanes tyme, at Brunesdon fielde or rather Brunnedon as I read, and whereof I finde thys annotation, in an olde French Chronicle.

In the time of Athelstane, ye greatest Nauie that euer aduentured into thys Islande, arri∣ued at Seton in Deuonshyre, beyng repleni∣shed with Aliens that sought the conquest of this Island, but Athelstane mette & encoū∣tred with them in the fielde, where he ouer∣threwe 6000. of his aforesayde enimyes. Not one of them also that remayned alyue, escaped from the battell wythout some dead∣lye or very grieuous wound. In this conflicte moreouer were flaine fiue kings, which were enterred in the Church yard of Axe minster, and of the part of the king of Englande were kylled eyght Earles of the chiefe of hys no∣bilitye, and they also buryed in the Church∣yarde aforesayde. Hereunto it addeth howe the Byshop of Shyreburne was in like sort slaine in thys battell, that began at Brune∣dune néere to Colyton, and indured euen to Axe minster, which then was called Brun∣bery or Brunburg. The same day that this thyng happened the sunne lost hys light, and so continued without any bryghtnesse, vntyll the setting of that Planet, though otherwyse the season was cléere and nothing clowdye.
But to procéede after our riuer hath passed thorow Axeminster towne, it goeth to ye bridg thereby (where sone after it receiueth the the Artey, sometyme a raging water) and fi∣nally to Axe mouth Towne, frō whence after it hath as it were played it selfe, in the plea∣sant botomes, by the space of a quarter of a myle, it goeth vnder White cliffe and so into the sea, where it is called Axebaye, and thus is that ryuer described.

As for the hauen which in times past as I haue hearde, hath béene at Sidmouth (so cal∣led of Sidde a •…•…yllet that runeth therto) and likewyse at Seton. I passe it ouer, sith nowe there is none at al. Yet hath there bene some∣tyme a notable one, albeit that at this present betwene the two poyntes of the olde hauen, there lyeth a mightie barre of pibble stones, in the verye mouth of it, and the ryuer Axe is driuē to the very east point of ye hauē called White clyffe. Therat also a very little gull goeth into the sea, whether small fisherbotes doe oft resort for succour. The men of Seton beganne of late to stake and make a maine wall within the hauen to haue chaunged the course of the Axe, and (almost in the myd∣dle of the old hauen) to haue trenched thorow the Chesill, therby to haue let out the Axe, & to haue taken in the maine sea, but I here of none effect that this attempt dyd come vnto.

From Seton westwarde lyeth Colyton, about two myles by west Northwest, where∣of ryseth the ryuer Coly, which goyng 〈◊〉〈◊〉 the aforesaide towne, passeth by Colecomb parke, and afterwarde falleth betwéene Axe brydge and Axe mouth towne into the Axe riuer.

Leauing the Coly we come soone after to Ottery hauen, whose heade riseth at Ottery fiue myles aboue Mohuns Ottery or Ottery Flemming flat North. From hence it goeth to Vpoter, Mohuns Ottery, Hunitō, Veniton bridge, S. Mary Otterey, Newton bridge Ottermouth and so into the sea. On the west side of this hauen is Budeley almost directly against Otterton. It is easie to be seene also, that within lesse then. 100. yeares, ships did vse this hauē, but now it is barred vp. Some call it Budeley hauen of Budeley towne, o∣ther Salterne port, of a little creke comming out of the mayne hauen vnto Salterne vil∣lage, that hath in time past béene a towne of greater estimation.

From Otterey mouth we sailed vp to Ex∣mouth so called of the riuer Exe, which moū∣teth in Exmore, at a place called Execrosse th•…•…ée myles by Northeast, and from thence goeth by Exford where it is a rill or small water: then to Tiuerton twelue miles from the head, thence to Therberton Cowley, and next of al to Excester receauing in the meane time the Simōs bath water, which riseth by Northwest of Simons bath bridge (fower myles from Exford:) and is in Sommer time so shalowe that a man maye easily passe ouer it, but in winter it rageth oft, and is very déepe and daungerous. As touching the hauen also I remember well that there lieth vpon the very West point of the same a barren sande and in the West North∣west goeth a little creke a mile or thereabout into the land which some call Kentō creke. I haue herd that the Burgeses of Excester in∣deuoured to make the hauen to come vp to Excester it selfe, but whether they brought it to passe or no as yet I doe not know, this is certaine that in times past the shippes came vp no nearer then Apsham, which is a prety townelet on the shore fower myles vpper in∣to the hauen.

Beyonde Excester hauen mouth 4. myles or there about I came to the Teigne mouth which ebbeth and floweth so farre as New∣ton. The head of this riuer is 20. myles from the sea, and it riseth in Dartmore at a place by northwest called Teigne head. Frō hence also it goeth to Iagford bridge, Clifford bridg Bridford bridge, Chidley bridge, Teigne bridge, Newton bushelles, beneath which•…•… it

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receaueth the Leman water, and also Aller brooke, which riseth thrée miles of, as Leland hath set down, who writeth moreouer of this hauen in sort as followeth. The very vtter west point of the land, at ye mouth of Teigne is called the Nesse, and is a very high redde cliffe. The east part of the hauen is named the poles, a lowe sandie grounde eyther cast vp by the spuing of the sand out of ye Teigne, or else throwen vp from the shore by the rage of winde and water. This sande occupyeth now a great quantitie of the ground betwene the hauen where the sand riseth, and Teigne mouth towne, which towne surnamed Regis, hath in time past béene sore defaced by the Danes, and of late time by the Frenche.

From Teigne mouth we came to Tor bay, wherof the west point is called Byry, and the east Perritory, betwene which is litle aboue foure miles. From Torre baie also to Dart∣mouth is sixe myles where (sayth Leland) I marked diuers thinges. First of all vpon the east side of the hauen a great hilly point, cal∣led Downesend & betwixt Downesende, and a pointlet named Wereford, is a litle baye. Were it selfe in like sorte is not full a myle from Downesend vpwarde into the hauen. Kingeswere towne standeth out as another pointlet, and betwixt it & Wereford is the se∣cond bay. Somwhat moreouer aboue Kinges∣were towne goeth a litle Creke vp into the land from the maine streame of the hauen called water head, & this is a very fitte place for vessells to be made in. In like sort half a mile beyond this into ye land ward, goeth ano∣ther longer creeke, & aboue that also a greater thē either of these called Gawnstō, whose hed is here not half a mile frō ye maine sea, by the compassing thereof as it runneth in Tor bay.

The riuer of Dart, commeth out of Dart∣more fiftene miles aboue Totnesse, in a very large plot, and such another wild morish and forrestye grounde as Exmore is. Of it selfe moreouer this water is very swift, & thorow occasion of Tinworkes whereby it passeth, it carieth much sand to Totnesse bridge, and so choketh the depth of the riuer downeward, that the hauen it selfe is almost spoiled by the same. The mariners of Dartmouth accompt this to be about a kenning frō Plimmouth. In the valley also betwéene Corneworthy & Ashepremptō, runneth a brooke called Hum∣berton or Herburne. This water commeth out of a Welspring, & so running about two myles, it passeth thorow a stone bridge called Rost, two myles from Totnesse. Frō thence moreouer, after it hath gone other two miles it commeth to Bow bridge, and there falleth into a saltwater créeke, which gathereth in∣to the lande out of the hauen of Dartmouth. This créeke at the head breaketh for a little way into two armes, whereof the one goeth vp to Bow bridge, and receyueth Humber∣ton water (as I saide) ye other toward Corne∣worthy frō whence vnto Dartmouth, is a∣bout foure myles. Finally about halfe a mile aboue Dartmouth towne, there is another Créeke going out of the maine streame cal∣led Olde mill créeke, so sarre as I can learne by the rumor of the countrey.

About seuen myles by west southwest frō Dartmouth lyeth Saltcomb hauen, some∣what barred: & not much aboue the heade of it is Arme hauen, the backewater whereof commeth vnder Yuy & Armington bridges, and so vnto the sea at this place, which is full of flattes and rockes, so that no shippe com∣meth thither in any tempest, except it be for∣ced thereto, thorowe the vttermost extremitie and desperate hazarde of the fearefull mari∣ners. King Phillip of Castile lost two shippes here in the dayes of king Henry the seuenth, when he was dryuen to lande in the West coūtrey by rage of weather. Vnto Armouth also commeth the Awne water, after it hath passed by East Brenton and Gare bridges, and not farre from the fall of this, lyeth the Yawlme mouth so called of a ryuer whych cōmeth thither frō Le bridg to Yalme bridg, & falleth into the sea, about 4. miles by south east, frō the maine streame of Plimmouth.

Being come to the Plimmoth, I finde that the mouth of the goulfe wherin the ships of this towne doe ride, is walled on eche side and chained ouer in ye time of necessitie. On ye south side of the hauē also is a blockhouse vpō a rocky hill, & vpō the east side of this & Tha∣mar hauen, lyeth the Mill baye creke, ye stone creke, Caine Créeke, Shilstō créeke (which is two myles of length and wheron standeth a Mill) Buddocks créeke, and last of al, Ta∣mertaue créeke, so called bycause of the con∣course of the Taue & Tamar waters there. Torrey brooke falleth lykewyse into Plym, but wher aboutes as now, I haue forgotten. Finally vpon the west side of the hauen, is a notable créeke also entering into the lande a myle or more from the hauen, which being viewed, I went and behelde Thamar hauen on the west side wherof, I noted these crekes.

First of all about two myles aboue Ashe I sawe the principall arme of Thamar it selfe. Certes it riseth about thrée myles by North∣east from Hartland, & goeth vp into the land about tenne myles from that place: thence it hasteth to Calstock bridge, whether it almost continually ebbeth and floweth, verye great vessels cōming likewyse within a mike ther∣of

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vnto Morleham, which is not aboue thrée myles from Tauistocke as I reade. Betwixt Thamar streame, and Ashe: I marked farder more sayeth Lelande other thrée créekes also descending, which brake vp into the lande, whereof the first lyeth by Northwest, the se∣conde west northwest, the thirde plaine west, entering into the country aboue half a mile, and scarsely a myle lower, I perused in like maner the Liuer créeke, that goeth vp to S. Germains ward. This créeke lyeth 3. myles from the maine streame of Thamar hauen, and rising in an hill aboue Launston, it goeth thorow the towne within the walles. In the botome also of the Suburbe, is an other na∣med Aterey, which ryseth aleuen myles of by west towarde Bodmin, wherinto runneth a Rill comming thorow a wood before it ma∣keth a confluens with the first, in descending towarde the hauen. Then breaketh in an o∣ther créeke called S. Iohns, or S. Anthonies Rode, and at the very mouth about S. Ni∣cholas Isle falleth in the last, which goeth vp to Milbrooke, two myles into the lande from the maine hauen. From hence we sayled far∣der towarde the west (leauing salt Ashe and Seton rillets) and came to the mouth of a riuer called Low, wherein Samons are of∣ten founde, & yet is it drie commonly at halfe ebbe. On eche syde of the entrye thereof standeth also a towne, whereof the one is cal∣led east Low the other west Low, and this is a pretie market towne. A bridge finally of twelue arches doth leade from the one to the other.

The next fall after we be past one little namelesse créeke, that lyeth by the waye, is Poulpyr water, whereinto commeth a little brooke. Then méete we with Fawey hauen, whose riuer ryseth at Fawy Moore (about two myles from Camilforde by South, and sixetene miles from Fawy towne) in a very quaue mire on the side of an Hill. Frō hence it goeth to Dramesbridge, to Clobhā bridge, Lergen bridge, New bridge, Resprin bridge, and Lostwithiell bridge, where it méeteth with a little brooke, and néere thereunto par∣teth it selfe in twaine. Of these two armes therefore one goeth to a bridge of stone, the other to another of timber, & soone after ioy∣ning againe, the maine riuer goeth to Saint Gwinnowes, from thēce also the point of S. Gwinnowes wood, which is about half a mile from thence, except my memorie doe fayle me. Here goeth in a Salt créeke halfe a mile on the east side of the hauen, and at the heade of it, is a bridge called Lerine bridge. The créeke it self in like maner bearing the same denomination. From Lerine créeke, to S. Caracs pill, or créeke, is about halfe a mile and Lower on the east side of the sayd hauen it goeth vp also not aboue a mile & an half 〈◊〉〈◊〉 to the lande. From Caracs créeke to Poul∣morland a myle, and this likewise goeth vp seant a quarter of a mile into the land, yet at the heade it parteth it selfe in twaine. From Poulmoreland to Bodnecke village halfe a mile where the passage and repassage is com∣monly to Fawey. From Bodnecke to Pe∣lene point (where a créeke goeth vp not fully 1000. paces into the lande) a mile, thence to Poulruan, a quarter of a mile, and at this Poulruan is a tower of force, marching a∣gain ye tower on Fawey side, betwene which, as I doe here, a chaine hath some times bene stretched, & likely inough for the hauē there is hardly two bowshotte ouer. The very point of lande at the east side of the mouth of this Hauen, is called Pontus crosse, but nowe Panuche crosse. It shal not be amisse in this place somewhat to intreate of the towne of Fawy, which is called in Cornish Cōwhath and being scituate on the Northside of the ha∣uen, is set hanging on a maine rocky hill be∣ing in length about one quarter of a mile, ex∣cept my memory deceyue me.

The renowne of Fawy rose by ye wars vn∣der King Edward ye first, Edward the third, & Henry the fifth, partly by feates of armes & partly by plaine pyracy. Finally ye townesmē féeling themselues somewhat at ease & strong in their purses, they fell to marchandize, and so they prospered in this their newe deuise, that as they traueiled into al places, so mar∣chauntes from all countries made resort to them, whereby within a while they grew to be exceeding riche. The shippes of Fawy sat∣ling on a time by Rhy and Winchelsey in ye time of king Edward the third, refused stout∣ly to vale any bonet there, although warning was giuen them so to do by the Portgrenes or rules of those townes. Herevpon the Rie and Winchelsie men, made out vppon them with cut and long taile: but so hardly were they intertained by the Fawy Pyrates (I should saie aduenturers) that they were dri∣uen home againe with no small losse and hin∣deraunce. Such fauour found the Fawy men also immediately vpon this bickering, that in token of their victory ouer their winching ad∣uersaries, and riding Ripiers, as they called them in mockery, they altered their armes and compounded for newe, wherein the scut∣chion of Rie and Winchelsey is quartered, with theirs & beside this ye Foiens were cal∣led the gallantes of Fawy, whereof they not a litle reioyced, and more peraduenture then for some greater booty. And thus much of

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Fawy towne wherin we sée what great suc∣cesse often commeth of wittelesse and rashe aduētures. But to returne againe to our pur¦pose from whence we haue digressed and as hauing some desire to finishe vp this our voy∣age, we wil leaue the Fawm•…•…uth and go for∣ward on our iourney. Being therefore paste this hauen, we come to Pennarth which is 2. myles by west therof, and scituate on the east side of Trewardith Baie, called by Leland Arctoum or Vrctoū Promontoriū except his writings do deceiue me. Frō hence we came to the blacke head, then to Pentoren a myle farder, and here issueth ont a pretye ryuer that commeth by Saint Austelles, about two myles and an halfe from thence, which run∣neth vnder Austell bridge & vnder the West side of the hill whereon the poore towne of S. Austelles stādeth. Thence we sailed to Chap∣pell land, then to Dudman, to Pennare, and Sainct Antonies point, which is thrée myles from Pennar point, where we make our en∣trance into the Falamouth hauen, whose de∣scription I borowe of Leland and worde for worde will here insert the same.

The very point (saith he) of the hauē mouth (being an hill whereon the Kyng hath buyl∣ded a castell) is called Pendinant. It is about a myle in compasse, almost enuironned with the sea, and where the sea couereth not, the ground is so low that it were a small mastry to make Pendinant an Iland. Furthermore there lieth a cape or foreland within the hauē a myle and an halfe, and betwixt this and M. Killigrewes house, one great arme of the hauen rūneth vp to Penrine towne, which is 3. miles from the very entry of Falemouth hauen, and two good myles from Penfusis. Moreouer there is Leuine Pris•…•…lo betwixte S. Budocus and Pendinas, which were a good hauen but for the barre of sande, but to procéede. The first creke or arme that casteth on the Northwest side of Falemouth hauen goeth vp to Perin, and at thende it breaketh into two armes, whereof the lesse runneth to Glasenith 1. viridis ind{us}, ye grene nest, or wag∣meer at Penrin: the other to saint Glunias the parishe Church of Penrine. In like sorte out of eche side of Penrine creke, breaketh an arme or euer it come to Penrine. This I vn∣derstande also that stakes and foundations of stone haue béene set in the creke at Penrine a litle lower then the wharfe where it brea∣keth into armes: but howsoeuer this standeth betwixte the point of Trefusis and the point of Restronget is Mil•…•…r creke, which goeth vp a myle into the land and by the churche is a good rode for shippes. The nexte creke be∣yonde the point of Restronget wood is called Restronget which goyng two myles vp into the maine breaketh into two armes. In lyke order betwixte Restronget and the creke of Trury be two crekes one called S. Feokes, the other Sainct Caie, nexte vnto which is Trury creke that goeth vp about two myles crekyng from the principall streame, & brea∣keth within half a myle of Trury, casting in a braunche Westward euen harde by New∣ham wood. This creke of Trury is deuided into two partes before the towne of Trury, and eche of them hauing a brooke comming downe and a bridge, the towne of Trury standeth betwixte them both. In like sorte Kenwen streate is seuered frō the said towne with this arme, and Clements stréete by east with the other. Out of the body also of Trury creke breaketh another eastwarde a myle from Trury, and goeth vp a myle and an halfe to Tresilian bridge of stone. At the very entry and mouth of this creke is a rode of shippes called Maples rode and here faught not long since. 18. shippes of Spanishe mar∣chauntes with 4. shippes of warre of Depe, but the Spanierdes draue the Frenchemen all into this harborowe. A myle and an halfe aboue the mouth of Trury creke, is another named Lhan Moran of S. Morans church at hād. This creke goeth vp a quarter of a mile from the maine streame into the hauen, as the maine streame goeth vp two myles a∣boue Moran creke ebbing and flowing: and a quarter of a myle higher is the towne of Tre∣gowy where we found a bridge of stone vpon the Fala ryuer. Fala it selfe riseth a myle or more west of Roche hyll & goeth by Graund pount where I sawe a bridge of stone.

This Graund pount is four miles frō Roche hill and two litle myles from Tregowy, be∣twixt which the Fala taketh his course. Frō Tregowy to passe downe by the body of the hauen of Falamouth to the mouth of Lany horne pill or creke, on the south side of the ha∣uen is a myle, and as I remember it goeth vp halfe a myle from the principall streame of the hauen. From Lanyhorne pill also is a place or point of sande about a myle way of 40. acres or thereabout (as a Peninsula) cal∣led Ardeue rauter. As for the water or creke that rūneth into the south southeast part, it is but a little thing of halfe a myle vp into the land, and the creke that hemmeth in this Pe∣ninsula, of both doth séeme to be the greater. From the mouth of the West creke of this Peninsula, to S. Iustes creke is foure miles or more. In like maner from S. Iustes pill or creke (for both signifie one thing) to Sainct Mawes creke is a myle and a halfe, and the point betwéen them both is called Pendinas.

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The creke of Saint Mawes goeth vp a two myles by east northeast into the land, and be∣sides that it eddeth and ••••oweth so far, there is a mylle driuen with a freshe creke that re∣sorteth to the same. Halfe a mile from the head of this downewarde to the hauen, is a creke in manner of a poole, whereon is a myll also that grindeth with the tyde. And a myle beneath that on the south side entreth a creke (about halfe a myle into the countrey) which is barred from the maine sea by a small san∣dye banke, and another myle yet lower, is a another litle crekelet: but howe soeuer these crekes doe runne, certaine it is that ye bankes of them that belong to Fala are marueilous∣ly well woodded, and hitherto Leland, whose wordes I dare not alter for feare of corrup∣tion and alteration of his iudgement. Being past Falmouth hauen, therfore (as it were a quarter of a myle beyonde Arwennach Ma∣ster Killegrewes place which standeth on the brimme or shore within Falmouth) we came to a litle hauen which ranne vp betwéene two hilles, but it was barred, wherefore we could not learne whether it were serued with any backe freshe water or not. From hence we went by Polwitherall creke (parted into two armes) then to ye Polpenrith wherevnto a re∣ueret falleth that riseth not farre from thēce, and so goeth to the maine streame of ye hauen at the last, whether the creke resorteth about thrée myles and more from the mouth of the hauen, and into which the water that goeth vnder Gare and Mogun bridges, doe fall in one botome as Lelande hath reported. Vnto this hauen also repayreth the Penkestell, the Callous ye Cheilow, & the Gilling, although this latter lyeth against Saint Mawnons on the hether side hard without the hauen mouth if I haue done aright. For so motheatē, moul∣dye, and rotten are those bookes of Leland which I haue, and beside that, his annotatiōs are such and so confounded as no man can in maner picke out any sence from them by a leafe together, wherfore I thinke that he dis∣persed & made his notes intricate of set pur∣pose, or else he was loth that any man should easily come by that knowledge by readyng, which he with his great charge and no lesse traueile attained vnto by experience.

Lopole is two myles in length, and betwixt it and the maine Ocean is but a barre of sand that ones in thrée or foure yeares, what by weight of the freshe water and working of the Sea breaketh out, at which time it ma∣keth a woonderfull noyse, but soone after the mouth of it is barred vp againe. At all other times the superfluity of the water of Lopole (which is full of Trout and Ele) draineth out thorow the sandy barre litle the open Sea: Certes if this barre coulde alwayes be kept open, it would make a goodly hauen, vp vnto Hayleston towne, where coynage of time is also vsed, as at Trucy and Lo••••withlell, for the Quéenes aduauntage. From this place I doe not remember that I founde any more falles or hauens, tyll we passed rounde about the cape, and came vnto the Haile, which is a pretye riuer, rising from foure principall heds or brokes, wherof one springeth by south another by southwest, the thirde by southeast, and the fourth by Northeast. Also we saw S. Perins créeke, Crantocke and Rialton, of Heyles Leland speaketh somewhat in his col∣lections out of the life of S. Breaca, where he noteth that it is spoyled by sand comming from the Tinne workes. The next great fall of water & greatest of all that is to be founde on the North side of Corinwall, is at Padde∣stow, whether ye Alaune resorte•…•…th. Of some it is nowe called Dunmere, but in olde time it hight commonly Alaunus. Into this streame runne diuers other as the Carnesey (by east) thrée myles lower then Woodbridge: ye Laine (which riseth two myles aboue S. Esse by northeast, and falleth into Alaune likewise a∣bout Woodbridge) the Bodmin water, beside another that commeth from southwest, and goeth in Alane two myles beneath this con∣fluence on the same side aboue Woodbridge: and finallye the last which descendeth out of the hilles from southeast, and ioyneth with the said riuer two myles aboue Padstow, as I doe finde by reading. In one place Leland saith how he cannot well tell whereabout this riuer doth issue out of the grounde, but in an∣other he sayth thus of it. The Alune is eui∣dently séene to passe thorow Wood or Wad∣bridge at lowe water, and the first bridge of name that it rūneth vnder is called Hesham, the next, Dunmere bridge, & the third Wad∣bridge, which is foure myles lower, and the lowest in déede, that is to be founde on this streame. From Padstow also they sa•…•…e full west vnto Waterford in Ireland. There are likewise two Rockes which lye in the east side of the hauen, secretely hidden at full Sea, as two pads in the straw, whereof I thinke it taketh the name. Leland supposeth this ry∣uer to be the same Camblan, where Arthur fought his last and fatall conflict: for to this daie men that doe eare the grounde there, doe oft plowe vp bones of a large size, and great store of armour, or els it may be (as I rather coniecture) that the Romanes had some field (or Castra) thereabout, for not long since and in the remembraunce of man, a brasse pot ful of Romane coyne was found there, as I haue

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oftē herde. Next vnto this is the Déepehatch & thē the Cunilus alias Portisser & Portguin waters, and vpon the Northside of this creke standeth Tintagell or Dundagiell castell, al∣most enuironned in manner of an Island. Af∣ter this and being past Tredwy, we come vnto the Taw mouth, whose heade riseth in Exmore southeast from Barstable, which is a towne fiue myles distaunt from the hauens mouth. It receueth also ye water of Turrege, which riseth 3. miles by northeast frō Harte∣land in a moore euen hard by ye principall hed of Thamar. This Thurege commeth first to Kissington bridge, thence to Pulford bridge, Wadforde bridge, Déepeforde bridge, the South and west bridges of Thorington, to Eudford bridge, (which hath 24. arches, and an olde chappel builded thereon vnto the vir∣gin Mary, at the farder end) then two miles lower it falleth into the Thaue, and finallye into the Sauerne sea, by the hauen mouth. The entrie of the hauen of Thaw is barred wyth sande and very daungerous, and from the pointe of the hauen mouthe to cutte o∣uer to Hartey point, is about sixe or seuen miles, a pretie brooke also falleth into the said hauen, from the hilles aboue Barstable, by East, & going by the Priory. But to procéede from hence we goe to the Minheued or Mine mouth, whose backwater entreth into it, af∣ter it be come from Minheued and Portloch. Then came we to Dour or Dournsteir fall, whether commeth a rill, next of all to Clyffe Chappell, where the people honoured an I∣mage of our Ladye with much superstition, thence two myles to Orcharde, to Comb thrée myles, and next of all vnto the Iuel, a famous ryuer, which descendeth by Brad∣fielde then by Clyfton (within a quarter of a myle whereof the Shireburn & the Milbrooke waters doe méete, of which the first ryseth in Blackmoore, the other thrée myle from thence in Milbrooke parke) from Clyfton to Euill a proper market towne in Somerset∣shyre, thre myles or thereabout from Shire∣burn: from Euell to Ilchester by the bridge thrée myles (taking withall the Cokar, that ryseth west of Cokar, and after thrée myles gate falleth into the Iuell) frō Ilchester to Michelborowe, leauing Athelney somewhat distaunt on the left side, then to Lamburne, to Bridge north, Bridge water, and after a time into the Sauerne mouth. Certes it is thought to ryse in Milbery parke, or some∣where else not farre from Shireburne, but the chiefe heade thereof commeth from Cos∣komb. When we are past this we come vnto the Axe, which runneth by Axe towne, and so continueth his course braunching in thende, and leauing a fayre Islande as it were in the very fal, partly enuironned wt the maine sea, & partly wyth this riuer. There is moreouer a towne east of this Island called in old time Cherin, but now Vphil. Next vnto this is the Stowey mouth serued with a backewater, called Stowey, which ryseth in the hylles not farre of, and after it hath touched at Stow, it falleth into the sea, which is seuē miles frō that place. There are two brookes further∣more that fal into the sea, after they haue pas∣sed betwéene Stow and S. Andrewes, & the thirde runneth not farre from Willington, rysing by South, but sithence they are onely tryfling rilles and namelesse, I thinke it not good to stande any longer about them. Thus are we come at last vnto the Auon, which not farre from his originall, doth enuironne and almost make an Island of the towne of Mal∣meflyry, from thence it goeth vnder Male∣forde and Casway bridges, to Choppenham, Bradford, Bath, Bristow (flowing two miles aboue that citie) and soone after into the Sa∣uerne, from whence it neuer returneth with∣out mixture of Salt water. In this sort haue I finished one part of my Description of the ryuers & streames falling into the sea, which should haue béene a far more perfite, and ex∣act péece of worke, if I had béene so vpright∣lye dealt withall in mine informations as I ment to deale precisely in setting downe the same, but sith the matter is so fallen out, that I cannot doe as I woulde herein, I must be contented to performe what I maye, hoping in time to peruse and polishe it againe that nowe is left rude and without any diligence shewed, or order vsed at all therein.

Notes

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