Shoe and boot making

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Title:	Shoe and boot making
Original Title:	Cordonnier et cordonnier-bottier
Volume and Page:	Plates vol. 3 (1765)
Author:	Unknown
Translator:	D. A. Saguto [The Honourable Cordwainers' Company (Guild)]
Original Version (ARTFL):	Link
Source:	M. de Garsault’s 1767 Art of the Shoemaker: An Annotated Translation. Williamsburg, VA: The Colonial Williamsburg Foundation in association with Texas Tech University Press, 2009. (Used with permission.)
Rights/Permissions:	This text is protected by copyright and may be linked to without seeking permission. Please see http://quod.lib.umich.edu/d/did/terms.html for information on reproduction.
URL:	http://hdl.handle.net/2027/spo.did2222.0001.431
Citation (MLA):	"Shoe and boot making." The Encyclopedia of Diderot & d'Alembert Collaborative Translation Project. Translated by D. A. Saguto. Ann Arbor: Michigan Publishing, University of Michigan Library, 2010. Web. [fill in today's date in the form 18 Apr. 2009 and remove square brackets]. <http://hdl.handle.net/2027/spo.did2222.0001.431>. Trans. of "Cordonnier et cordonnier-bottier," Encyclopédie ou Dictionnaire raisonné des sciences, des arts et des métiers, vol. 3 (plates). Paris, 1765.
Citation (Chicago):	"Shoe and boot making." The Encyclopedia of Diderot & d'Alembert Collaborative Translation Project. Translated by D. A. Saguto. Ann Arbor: Michigan Publishing, University of Michigan Library, 2010. http://hdl.handle.net/2027/spo.did2222.0001.431 (accessed [fill in today's date in the form April 18, 2009 and remove square brackets]). Originally published as "Cordonnier et cordonnier-bottier," Encyclopédie ou Dictionnaire raisonné des sciences, des arts et des métiers, vol. 3 (plates) (Paris, 1765).

Containing Two Plates.

Plate One

The picture at the top of the plate represents the shop of the shoemaker.

Fig. 1. Shoemaker who is measuring.
2. Worker who is selecting a suitable last.
3. Worker who is stiching a sole.
4. Worker who is treeing a boot.
5, 6. Two journeymen.
7. A cobbler in this stall.
- a, b, c, rows of different lasts.
- d, boot lasts. [1]
- e, e, completed boots.
- f, measures.
- g, vamp patterns.
- h, table crowded with different tools.

Bottom of the Plate

Fig. 1. Lasting pincers.
2. Nippers.
3. English turn shoe relasting pliers.
4. Rand-setting shoulder stick.
5. Boxwood shoulder stick.
6, 6. Knives.
7. A boot: see the one in figure 48 of plate two.
8. no. 1. Boxwood long stick.
8. no. 2. Round knife.
9. Bone long stick [ astic ].
10. Three-headed [heel] nail.
11. Two-headed [sole-blocking] nail.
12. Lasting tack.
13. Pin tack.
14. Size stick. [2]
15. Shoemaker’s needle [ carrelet ].
16. Hammer.
17. Man’s clog overshoe.
18. Woman’s clog overshoe.
19. English seam set.
20. Channel knife.
21. Shoe stamp.
22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, A, B, C, D, E, F, English awls.
28. no. 1. Last, for making.
28. no. 2. Split last [also called a shoe stretcher].
28. no. 3. Another split last.

Plate Two

Fig. 29. no. 1. Boot tree.
30. Soft boots.
31. Stirrup.
32. Dauber.
33. Molding block.
34. Relasting cramp for turn shoes.
35. Thread basket.
36. Thread basket cutaway [view].
37. Small awl used by the bootmaker.
38. Small wooden bowl for wetting the soles.
39. Stump for beating out soles.
40. Vamp.
41. Sole.
42. Quarter.
43. Shoe. A, the vamp. B, the quarter. C, the tongue. D, the heel.
44. Hand leather. A, B, the holes.
45. English spur.
46. Hussar’s spur.
47. Jackboot. a, the knee piece.
48. Hunting or court boot. b, the knee piece.
49. Hussar boot.
50. Traveler’s or dragoon boot.
51. Courier’s boot. c, knee piece.
52. Blacking pot.
53. Apron.

Notes

1. Although Diderot labeled this “ formes de bottes ” (boot lasts), it actually depicts boot trees.

2. Griselini calls this type of size stick English, p. 203.