Surfing as Meditation

208 MICHIGAN QUARTERLY REVIEW walking on the tossing manes of lions or blue, blue, wheat? In the one true Theocracy, only he who has prayed himself black & blue on earth will be sucked, embodied, all the way to Zuma Beach and beyond in one glorious undertow of spirit over choice because there is no choiceIf it's true. Fuck the body! the body! cry the bittern and red-eyed gulls diving for their dinner. Like us, they'd sooner crash and burn for a fish. But one morning a wetsuit left waving on a line, animus-empty, will remind us of someone who got away just in time, who skipped town with his open secret like a precious wound, naked, before a mob of the converted descended with their sticks. for Phil 0