Tinted Sketches in Madeira [pp. 265-278]

Tinted Sketches in Madeira.
CHAPTER IV. the scene, and one or two of the awk ward looking boi-cars. All were tak IT was the last week in Lent, and, ing the same direction, the Praca da
according to our manner of computing Constitutionel, and the common olbject
time, it was eleven o'clock A.I. of the was to gain admission to the cathedral.
day known as "'IHoly Thursday." At every turn the crowd augmented,
Reckoning, however, as the Madeir- and even masquers joined in consider ans do, it was the last hour of that day, able numbers-but these latter brought
and the next would be the first of neither jest nor laughter with their
Good Friday. presence; the ceremonies of the day
An unusual silence had reigned in had subdued even them, causing them
the town since the first streaks of pur- to abandon tlhe vacant gaiety apper ple light appeared in the east, as if to taining to their attire for a demean render more remarklable the din which or more fitting the time and occa at the hour above-named assailed the sion.
ears of the inhabitants of Funchal. Arrived at the cathedral, each
Strains of military music filled the air, party, no matter how exalted their
mingled with the tollicng of bells and rank, encountered a delay in obtaining
the firing of guns, which found a an entrance. The throng around the
hundred echoes in the adjoining hills. door was great, and it was in vain
These sounds were the signals to the that the soldiers endeavored to keep
people (f Madeira that the time was the general crowd at a distance.
drawing near when the most imposing Trained as the Madeirans are to hab ceremonial of their religion would be its of deference to both military
celebrated. With the first trumpet- and ecelesiaftical authority, they be notes the streets began to fill, every come, like other people, audacious
house sending forth its inmates, and headstrong when assembled in
whethler richi or poor, old or young, large multitudes, and, in spite of both
either to witness or take part in the church and state, they now sought
spectacles of the day. As on all like an entrance by the exertion of physi occasions, the peasantry, in their best cal force, and some hundreds sucattire, pourel in with astonishing ra- ceeded.
pidity; while crowding in withl themn While, however, the struggle and
were ladies in hammocks, clad in contention at the door remained unrobes of rainbow hues, and partially abated, the ceremonial which all were
concealed from curious eyes by silken so anxious to witness had been enactcurtains of pink or blue, which were ed within. To describe it is needless.
matched in color by the vests of the The hour when the God-man poured
bearers, and the ribbons with long forth his soul even unto death is a sad
floating ends adorning their broad- and awful memory familiar to us all.
brimmed straw lhats; and gentlenmen Let us, therefore, look at the scene
on horseback, whom you at once which the cathedral presents at two
would recognize as natives by their o'clock on that day.
short stature, their bright vests, neck- The windows are boarded up on
ties, and hat-ribbons, and their pro- the outside, and within are covered
fusion of rich, showy ornaments. with curtains of heavy black cloth.
Quietly malking their way on foot The walls all round are hung with fine
throtugh this throng were the English stuff of the same color, concealing the
merchants, with their wives and daugh- paintings and other ornaments, and
ters, distinguished from those by the altar is hidden behind drapery of
whom they weie surrounded by an air black velvet with ghlastly-looking, borof severe reserve and a studied sim- ders of silver. Between this gloomy
plicity of dress. A few handsome vail and the cancelli, or railings, you
wheeled carriages also appeared on see a magnificent catafalque, and on it
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