Tinted Sketches in Madeira [pp. 265-278]

Tinted Sketches in Madeira.
From The Dublin University Magazine.
TINTED SKETCHES IN MADEIRA.
CHAPTER I.
NOTWITHSTANDINGC that Madeira
enjoys an imperishable distinction for
its matchless scenery, its sunny skies,
and its healthful climate, yet the character of its inhabitants seems to have
been but little studied, and still less the
singular usages and customs which indicate their nationality. Impressed
with the idea that to supply some information on these particulars might
heighten the interest experienced for
the Madeirans as an isolated little community, I have compiled a few pages
descriptive of their social and domestic life, inatending them, however, merely as supplementary to the valuable information afforded by others.
Passing over the novel and amusing
circumstance of landing at Funchal,
which has already been so often described, I find myself in a boi-caro, or
ox-car, traversing narrow and intricate
streets; the murmur of waters and soft
strains of instrumental music saluting
my ear, while a faint perfumed breeze
stirs the curtains of my caro. By
some travellers the boi-caro has been
likened to the body of a caleche placed
on a sledge, but to me it neither had
then, nor has it assumed since, any
other appearance than that of a fourpost bed, curtained with oil-cloth, lined
with some bright-colored calico. and
having comfortably cushioned seats.
It is made of light, strong timber, secured on a frame shod with iron. A
pair of fat, sleek oxen are yoked to this
odd-looking carriage, while from thongs
passed through their horns bits of
carved ivory or bone hang on theirforeheads to protect them from the influence
of Malochio or Evil-eye.
Half an hour brought me to my
destination, No.-, Rua San fran
cisco. This house in its structure resembles the generality of the better
class of houses in the island, the sleeping-rooms being sacrificed to the magnificence of the reception-rooms, the
vastness of which appears to mock the
ordinary wants of daily life. The
walls are pure white, lined with prints,
paintings, and mirrors; the floors are
either covered with oil-cloth or highly
polished; and the windows are shaded
by lace curtains and Venetian blinds;
the furniture is modern, and of English
manufacture. I have been thus minute because the interiors of all the superior dwellings have the same general
character. I cannot, however, say the
same with regard to the tastes and
habits of the occupants. The British
prince-merchant, with his spirit, his
intelligence, and his philanthropy, gives
his days to the busy cares of life, and
his evenings to the quiet enjoyments
of home; while the Madeiran gentleman passes his days in luxurious indolence, and his evenings in crowded
rooms. The ladies present an equally
strong contrast, and yet, during one
short period in each day, their tastes
and purposes seem to assimilate: when
the brief and beautiful twilight, with
its freshness, its odors, and its music,
induces even the exclusive Englishwomen to appear in the shaded balcony, and find amusement in the passing scenes.
At this hour the peasantry may be
seen returning to their homes in little
parties of four or five, each groupbeing
accompanied by a musician playing
on the national instrument, the machetes, or guitarette, and singing some
plaintive air in which, occasionally,
all join. No sooner has one group
passed, than the sweet, soft intonations
of other songsters are heard approach
265