60Camp and Travel in New Me-eico. his blacksnake; and while the sun was setting, Johnson left us, his man follow ing reluctantly, as usual. Johnson was more or less right. We were the worst teamsters imaginable. If our mules tried to avoid ruts, rocks, and other torments along the road, we always pulled the lines just in time for the wheels to collide with them. He could sit hours on his high seat and look steadily at the road in front of his mules, while we looked anywhere and every where else; and he could cook his sup per in comfort at a deserted camp-fire, among old cast-off socks and dishrags, while we could not. We were in serious trouble at last, as at this point began the notorious and much dreaded Jornada del Muerto, across which all must, as if their deeds were evil, travel at night, and rest through the bright hours. We had felt much comfort in having company to cross it with; and there we were at the moment of starting, doomed to go alone,'as we might need to wait weeks for other company over the seventy-odd miles of desert, with its high-priced water, and grass enough, if only we dared let the mules eat it. Many were the desperate battles that had been fought thereon with attacking Indians by the weary emigrants. Many poor pilgrim men, women, and innocent little children, had upon these desert sands yielded their scalps to the scalping knife, and then perished from pain and thirst. Many were the human carcasses that along its trail had been gnawed by coyotes, and picked by the buzzards, and their skeletons left to be kicked about by the four desert winds, and crumble away with time, till the last remnants of those who were in their time human beings, as real, active, and sensitive, as we, were obliterated from earth. It was widely rumored that many of the cut-throat class among the Mexicans, too, circulated over the desert in ambush, and luxuriated among the can ons of the Sierra Soledad Mountains, to the east of the road, making it doubtful, when travelers were attacked and killed, whether they or the Indians did it; as they had studied the Indian mode of warfare and slaughter, to imitate it, so that the blame would all be cast upon the Indians. We knew that Johnson would, as all travelers did, urge on his mules to their utmost strength in hurrying over to safer quarters, leaving us no chance to overtake him; for even could we get a new axle made and put in place by day break, we dared not drive out until dusk in the evening, which would put us twen ty-four hours behind him. As Johnson drove away, Mrs. Baker and I looked at each other in despair. She had little thought for herself, but Ida -what if Indians should attack us and kill Ida, or carry her away with them as an orphaned prisoner? And if we were attacked, would she not find herself the only fighter in our camp? She said nothing to reflect on my cowardice, but I knew that she had some evidence, at least, that I was scarcely yet out of my childhood, and was not, like herself, proof against hysteria. If a mule should be shot, she knew that the calamity would either make me fight more fiercely, or break down and lose consciousness, and she did not know which we might expect. Clark had gone on ahead, but, on looking back to know what caused the delay, and what we were parleying about, he discovered our broken-down condition, and returned, saying with a smile: "Let me wait and go with you. I'll do it, if you say so." And so, between protest and pressure of circumstances, we accepted him for escort. The following day, as the sun was again setting, we resumed our journey. For ten miles we pulled through sand, and then the road improved a trifle, as we turned to the right of it, leaving Lone Mountain and Round Mountain 360 [October,
Camp and Travel in New Mexico [pp. 347-369]
Overland monthly and Out West magazine. / Volume 16, Issue 94
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- Collegiate Education of Women - Horace Davis - pp. 337-344
- The Great Archipelago - John S. Hittell - pp. 344-347
- Camp and Travel in New Mexico - Dagmar Mariager - pp. 347-369
- The Fellowship of Truth - Isaac Ogden Rankin - pp. 369
- A Danish Artist Family - C. M. Waage - pp. 370-373
- The Navajo Indians - M. J. Riordan - pp. 373-380
- The Reconstruction of the U. S. Navy - Charles H. Stockton - pp. 381-386
- Some Australian Ghost Stories - T. J. B. - pp. 386-389
- Platonic Idealism - Estella L. Guppy - pp. 389-393
- The Boom of the Coeur d'Alenes - Cecile I. Duton - pp. 394-403
- An Egyptian Ode - William Herbert Carruth - pp. 403
- Some Memories of Charles Darwin - L. A. Nash - pp. 404-408
- A Suburban Garden - Alma Blakeman Jones - pp. 408-411
- Zola's Rougon-Macquart Family - C. W. Bardeen - pp. 412-422
- Sport in Russia - Borys F. Gorow - pp. 422-425
- A Park Experience - Elizabeth S. Bates - pp. 425-428
- Verse of the Year - pp. 429-436
- Some Novels - pp. 437-444
- Etc. - pp. 445-446
- Book Reviews - pp. 447-448
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"Camp and Travel in New Mexico [pp. 347-369]." In the digital collection Making of America Journal Articles. https://name.umdl.umich.edu/ahj1472.2-16.094. University of Michigan Library Digital Collections. Accessed June 22, 2025.