Explorations in the Upper Columbia Country [pp. 255-266]

Explorations in the Upper Columbia Country.
Low hills, and a rolling stretch of country
at the foot of Lake Chelan, merge into high
precipitous mountains as its headwaters are
approached. In width it varies from a mile
to two miles, and takes a serpentine course
up its caion. C(ottonwood trees cluster
around its banks at the foot, where its outlet,
Chelan River, a small stream running with
great velocity, empties its waters into the Columbia about three miles below. A short distance up the lake the scenery rapidly changes, and presents a beautiful aspect. Huge
frowning mountains arise, covered with pines
whose trunks almost lie flat against the steep
sides. Nature has given to this place all the
delights of beauty and grandeur. The waters, clear as crystal, are very deep. Natural
wharves of rock exist at intervals, and in some
of the sheltered harbors level plateaux stretch
back to the base of the mountains, and are
so fascinating to the eye that it seems strange
that there are not handsome villas to occupy
the sites. Farther up the lake the steep
banks barely permit a good foot-hold, and
here the mountain goat, unsuspicious of danger, browses on the slopes. We landed several times and stole upon them, bringing
down several fine specimens. They are snow
white, slightly larger than the tame goat, but
resemble it very closely in general appearance. The meat is strong and gamey, and
has a slight taste of mutton.
From the tops of the high mountains bordering this lake some of the prettiest little
mountain streams come jumping down, eager
to empty their silver offerings into the lake.
Tiny cascades pouring a fine spray over some
steep precipices melt into watery vapor, on
which the sun throws the most gorgeous rainbow hues. The gorges, in which the streams
are sinking deeper and deeper, are most beautiful, and seem like the homes of fairies.
In some places, tall perpendicular cliffs,
rising from the lake, have been curiously
worn by the action of the waves at their base,
and the softer rock, yielding more quickly,
has left the harder veins standing out in ribs,
projections, and ledges, on which one could
easily stand.
Wind favoring, we proceeded quite swiftly
up the lake, and oars were almost unneces sary. At noon of the third day from starting
we landed at the head of the lake, having
sailed a distance of about sixty-five miles;
found the pole the Indian had placed for
us, and settled the question that the lake has
but one head. Resting for a few moments,
we took a survey of this beautiful wild spot.
Snow-capped peaks hemmed us in on all
sides, except where the valley of the Stahe-kin guides this muddy stream into the
head of the lake. It was impossible to proceed up this stream owing to the marshy nature of its banks, but previous reports had
told us that it also ran into a caton near its
headwaters.
On the right of Lake Chelan, about half a
mile from its head, on a perpendicular cliff,
can be seen curious figures made by the Indians. Fish, deer, bear, goats, men and
women are rudely outlined in red paint.
The story is current that they were drawn by
the Indians years ago; but it seems a matter of doubt whether this paint would stand
for ages, and I am rather inclined to think
not. I examined them very closely, and they
are certainly very curious. The Indians to
the west of the Cascade mountains, in the
vicinity of Puget Sound, and those living at
the foot of Lake Chelan, journey between
each others' homes, following the course of
this lake, and make trades. Such being the
case, it is not improbable that some one of
them, having procured a pot of red paint,
tried his skill as an artist on the cliff.
At the head of Lake Chelan, our onward
journey ended. We were loath to leave
such a beautiful country, and felt well paid
for our trip, although we had found it impracticable to cross the Cascade Mountains
to the north of Lake Chelan. The scenery,
incidents, and experiences throughout our
entire journey, all lent their aid to its attractiveness. Our thoughts turned homeward,
but we knew that many a time in the future
the recollection of some incident would pleasantly recall one of Nature's most beautiful
domains.
The trip down the lake was made in a little over two days, by the aid of a strong
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