Rambles of an Ornithologist [pp. 316-321]

318 RAMBLES OF AN ORNITHOLOGIST. [APRIL,
mountain stream of clear water flows. ~iado, and the change was delightful.
The people were in a state of great ex- Instead of the sultry heat of the low
`citement, concerning the loss of a boy lands, we now enjoyed the fresh, cool
about ten years old, whom they suppos atmosphere of the mountains.
ed to have been devoured by an alli- The view from this point was truly a
gator in the stream; but I am of the crown~ng on~~ in magnificence, and I gazopinion that the boy was drowned acci- ed upon it with mute admiration and
dentally, for an alligator can not devour pleasure. The immense valley that
its food under water; and had he caught skirts the sea-coast, a portion of which
the boy and drowned him, he would we had just passed through, lay spread
soon have dragged him on shore for that out at our feet, covered with a sea of
purpose. eternal verdure, presenting every sha~e
At sundown, we reached the village of color. Embosomed in it were numof Navorito. All these villages are mere bers of bright lakes, and the tortuous
thatched huts, with no furniture or corn- windings of the Rio Santiago could disforts, the inhabitants of which are ready tinctly be seen; while still farther on,
to abandon them at a moment's warning toward the west, in the dim distance,
of danger from robbers or revolutionists. lay old ocean. Turning my gaze to
On a little donkey they carry all they the far interior, mountains on mountpossess, and those who are not the fort- ains met my view, gradually receding,
unate owners of a donkey carry their until they were lost or mingled with the
effects on their heads, or strap them on blue sky; while more prominent in the
their backs. We often see women car- foreground stood, towering above the
rying immense loads in this way. Thus misty clouds, Mount Tepic, in whose
equipped, they flee to some more quiet shadow lay the beautiful valley and city
portion of the country, and if they do bearing its name. My rapt admiration
not find a hovel ready for them and was interrupted by the conductor, who
which has been deserted by some one called out, "Varnonos." I mounted on
else, they soon construct one of sticks the outside with the driver to have a betand grass, not unlike the shiftless Dig- ter view, and we were again in full gallop,
ger Indian. This class of people corn- rolling over a beautiful undulating road,
pose at least two - thirds of the popula- through an open, picturesque country.
tion of Mexico. The rice and barley fields looked fresh
At 2 A. M., we were rumbling over the and green, while the plantain and orange
rough road in the dark. As we advanc- groves and coffee orchards gave to the
ed, the dawning of day revealed the fine scene a tropical appearance. As we nearundulating country through which we ed the city, the country seemed to be in
were passing, with here and there a a better state of cultivation. The pretty
rancho of native huts. At times we little rivulets of clear, sweet water were
were greeted by the barking, wolf-like bridged over, and the small thatched
dogs of the natives as we passed their huts of the natives were prettily embowhuts, and by the loud, harsh screams of ered among the plantains and oranges.
the great green macaws and other par- All around, everywhere, a mantle of flowrots, as we drove through the woods. ers of various hues was spread over plain
The beautiful, exciting, and ever-chang- and bush. The most numerous of these
ing scenery passing in rapid review, can were the various kinds of convolvulus, or
be better enjoyed than described. We morning - glory. The near approach of
had ascended from low regions, or tierra the cloud - enveloped mountain of San
caliente, to the upland, or tierra tern- Juan gave us hopes of a speedy termi