Reports of explorations and surveys, to ascertain the most practicable and economical route for a railroad from the Mississippi River to the Pacific Ocean: Vol. 1, Pt. 2

LETTER TO THE SECRETARY OF WAR.
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tribes in that vicinity, and to acquaint myself with the harbors of the sound with reference to the
termination of the railroad line. I was agreeably impressed with Elliott's bay, on which are the
flourishing towns of Seattle and Alki, and I agree entirely with Captain McClellan, in the opinion
that it is the best harbor of the sound, and unless the approach to it from the pass should, on a
more minute examination, prove less favorable than to some other point, and which is hardly
to be expected, that it is the proper terminus of the railroad. During my stay at Seattle, two
sailing-vessels arrived directly from San Francisco, only six days from that port. A more complete report will be forwarded as soon as the proper data can be obtained.
I have now the honor to report that an express messenger reached this place this morning,
bearing despatches from Mr. Tinkham, dated Wallah-Wallah, January 2, 1854, stating that, in
accordance with my instructions, he had fitted out his party for the crossing of the Cascade
mountains to this point, through the Snoqualme Pass. He was to leave on the 3d of January,
and has consequently been out twenty-eight days, and may daily be expected to reach us. Mr.
Tinkham had had an adventurous trip since our separation in the St. Mary's valley. Leaving
us at that point, he crossed the rocky mountains through the Marias Pass, between October 7th
and 28th. He found that this line involved a tunnel of two miles, and high grades for a railroad,
and for a wagon road he deems it impracticable. He encountered no snow of consequence, and
after a short stay at Fort Benton, where he found everything pertaining to the post established at
that point in charge of James Doty, Esq., in excellent condition, he recrossed the mountains for
the third time within six weeks, taking a new trail, intermediate between the Hell Gate and Blackfoot passes, the ones taken respectively by Lieutenant Mullan and the main train. This pass he
found entirely practicable for wagons even at this moment. The dividing ridge is a mere hill,
its summit but six thousand feet (6,000) above the level of the sea, and so easy of ascent that in
ascending to the summit they were enabled to keep a trot, though the road was slippery in consequence of a large camp of Pend d'Oreille Indians having preceded them. A portion of this
band they passed in the ascent, and afterwards accompanied them through the entire pass.
They were returning from the buffalo hunt, and heavily laden with meat. A copy of Mr. Tinkham's report, which was written rather hastily at Wallah-Wallah, is herewith enclosed; and I beg
leave to call your attention to the extraordinary energy he has shown, not'only in his crossings of
the Rocky mountains, but when, on the southern Nez Perces trail between St. Mary's and WallahWallah, he afterwards encountered deep snows, which compelled him to send his animals back
to St. Mary's and to travel on snow-shoes, each man with a pack of from fifty to seventy pounds
on his back. They thus made the entire crossing of the Bitter Root mountains in fifteen days,
and then, issuing out upon the prairies, they found but little snow, and at the house of an Ameri-4
can settler which lay in their route they were enabled to procure horses, with which they proceeded to Wallah-WVallah. On his arrival here, which, as I have before mentioned, is anticipated
at any moment, he will have completed a most hazardous and adventurous trip, deserving of the
highest praise. At Wallah-Wallah Mr. Tinkham found my instructions to pursue the route through
the Snoqualme Pass, and a copy of these instructions are enclosed herewith.
Mir. Tinkham brought a report from M!r. Doty, who was entering finely upon the field before
him. Lieutenant Grover had not returned from his survey of the Missouri between the falls of
the Missouri and Fort Union. From Mr. Tinkham's good success in getting through the snow in
the Bitter Root mountains, I am relieved of all apprehension I might have entertained as to the
sucecess of Lieutenant Grover, who will set out fully equipped for his adventurous journey.
Mr. Tinkham also brought reports from Lieutenant Mullan, and a copy of a report of-a reconnaissance made by him to the headwaters of the Jefferson's fork of the Missouri is herewith enclosed.
At the time of Mr. Tinkham's leaving the valley, he had established a winter camp, fourteen
miles from Fort Owen, up the St. Mary's valley, and he was employing his men in the erection of
four log-houses, the expense of which will not exceed twenty-five dollars for al. If the opera
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